Full text of "Style (1922)"

ANNUAL SPRING NUMBER

Vol. XXXIV. No. 1

THE MACLEAN PUBLISHING COMPANY, LIMITED

PUBLICATION OFFICE: TORONTO, CANADA

JANUARY, 1922

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Golfer

Steamship

Playing Carck will

Increase Your Small wares Sales

Sports Series

Most people who are in your store
from day to day use Playing Cards.

SPORTS

Mak

e it easy for them to buy from

OWL
GOLFER

you

by a prominent display of our

PRINCESS

med

ium-priced cards.

COLONIAL BRIDGE

have bsen manufacturing these

Consolith Series

card

s in Canada for the trade for over

GOOD LUCK

30 years.

ST. LAWRENCE

STEAMSHIP

OAK LEAF

MAGICIENNE

ROYAL BRIDGE

On request, we will t send you

Patience Cards

our latest show card, which will
assist vou in vour displays.

(ONSOLI DATED

^■"'Lithographing and Manufacturing Co Lttl.

Montreal, Canada.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

k n " * — =

Carpets, Oilcloths ,Linoleums and Draperies

for Spring 1922

We have on hand now in such goods, the
largest and most complete range it has ever been
our privilege to offer to the trade.

Our showing comprises the very newest de-
signs and colorings and we make it a point to
see that our values are not bettered anywhere.

You may see samples with our representative,
or a letter will bring them by return, or a visit
to our warehouse would pay you well"

John M. Garland, Son
& Co., Ltd.

Ottawa - Canada

Wholesale Dry Goods

DCZ

DC3C

zWrs

DRY GOODS REVIEW

VDRRS

CARLISLE England
DAWEL /Scotland

Production!

GENERAL FURNISHING- FA. .. _

Including

5UND0UR TAPESTRIED
SUNDOUR CHENILLES
3UND0UR REPS
SUNDOUR MADRAS
SUNDOUR CASEMENT
SUNDOUR RUGS

Guaranteed absolutely fast to&un cmclhtos/j.

The Colour element in these \vbrld-Knovm E\brics
is indestructible, and the finished product -from
coal tar anthracene to colour and from raw material
to finished fabric - is our own throughout .

DRY GOODS REVIEW

TO THE TRADE

JANUARY 1922

A Bulletin
of Values
For You in —

STAPLES
LINENS
DRESS GOODS
HOSIERY
GLOVES
UNDERWEAR
MEN'S FURNISHINGS
SMALLWARES
HOUSE FURNISHINGS
READY-TO-WEAR
GOODS

Our travellers are now
on the road with a full
range of samples. We
solicit through them your
esteemed orders.

Letter orders filled
daily with prompt des-
patch.

We shall be pleased to
have you visit our ware-
house when in the city.

JOHN MACDONALD & CO., LIMITED

TORONTO

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Something New

Ladies' Hosiery

We have added two new numbers to our

line —
Number 500

Double fabric silk hose for winter
wear, combining the comfort of
cotton, the warmth of wool, and
the auty of glove silk. Patents
penct •

Number 350

A beau in ul novelty in silk and wool
two-tone effects; clocked.

The Finest Trc ly "Winsome Maid"

Allen Silk Mils Limited

43 Davies Ave. Toronto

A. B. C. is a Hose Guarantee

Make the New Year profitable in your Hosiery
Department by handling the universal favorite —

A. B.C. HOSIERY

For Men, Women and Children

These lines give satisfaction :

For Children-
Beautiful pure thread silk, 1

and 1 rib.
Silk and wool, 1 and 1 rib.
Cashmere in heather mixture,

three-quarter length sock

with roll top.
Cashmere, plain weaves and

new shades in heather.

All seamless, with reinforced heels and toes

For Men and Women —

Silk and wool mixtures, many
combinations of colors.

Cashmere — plain weaves and
new shades in heather.

Allen Bros. Co., Limited

883 Dundas St. E. Toronto

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Profit by the Teachings

of The Successful Stores

"INTER - PLACE - ABLE
UNITS" ■permit the gradual
evolution of a turfy modern
store interior at a small in-
itial cost, and are described
and illustrated in a special
catalog for Dry Goods and
Men's Furnishing stoi-es,
which is yours for the asking.

—by applying the proven principles of
their success to your own business.

A careful study of the more successful Dry Goods
stores will reveal many important factors of the
utmost value in the successful managing of your

own business.

Outstanding- among these many business "principles
of success" is the absolute necessity of an attractive,
expertly planned, adequately equipped store interior—
an interior equipment that utilizes every foot of floor
space, that affords unlimited display, and from every
angle is an irresistible invitation to buy and "call
again."

Knowledge, painstakingly accumulated in planning and
equipping many successful Dry Goods stores, awaits
your command in the Kent-McClain organization —
whether it is but a single show-case you require or
special plans and equipment for an entirely new,
outstanding store.

(TbRwroSffowCASFCo) Ulfflted

J 83 Car law Ave.

Off Queen St. E.

" Inter-Place-Able " Units.

D R Y GO O D S K E V I E W

WAYAGAMACK

PURE

KRAFT

Owing to the progressive policy of the Tianufacturers

Wayagamack Pure Kr^ft Papers

Glazed and Unglazed

have in the short space of eight years earned a

World-wide Reputation

'V r OU protect yourself only if you demand an article
•*- that has always given satisfaction.

There are, of course, many imitations, therefore when
ordering wrapping paper, paper bags and paper con-
tainers of all descriptions

Insist on being supplied with

Wayagamack Pure Kraft

which means

Strength and Security

It is stocked by and can be obtained from all the prin-
cipal paper wholesalers from Halifax to Vancouver.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

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WAYAGAMACK

PURE

KRAFT

A Few of the Uses to which

Wayagamack Pure Kraft

may be put

As a Wrapping Paper for:-

PROVISIONS
MEATS
BREAD
FRUIT
FLOWERS
FANCY GOODS
STATIONERY
DRY GOODS OF ALL
DESCRIPTIONS

DRUGS

SMALLWARES
COTTON PIECE

GOODS
WOOLENS
SILKS
CLOTHING
FURS
JEWELRY
EXPORT BALES

BOTTLED GOODS

GLASS

MACHINERY

LAUNDERED AR-
TICLES

UPHOLSTERY

HARDWARE OF ALL
DESCRIPTIONS

BEDSTEADS

CARPETS

FURNITURE

CYCLE TIRES

MOTOR TIRES

BICYCLES

PLUMBING SUP-
PLIES

ELECTRICAL SUP-
PLIES

Bags Manufactured from

Wayagamack Pure Kraft

TEA
COFFEE

are invaluable as containers for:-

SUGAR NOTIONS

FRUITS CEMENT

NAILS and GENERAL HARDWARE

LIME
FERTILIZERS

As Covers for:-
AUTOMOBILES CASKETS PIANOS FURNITURE

PHONOGRAPH RECORDS

Backing for Picture Frames

Linings for Barrels

Linings for Sugar and Salt Sacks

Also used largely for:-

Linings for Railway Cars
Linings for Packing Cases
Envelopes

Moth Proof Bags
Laundry Bags
Newspaper Wrappers

Insist on being supplied with

Wayagamack Pure Kraft

which means

Strength and Security

>w*vO

%!^^ i ] n ii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiii 1 1 1 1

10 DRY GOODS REVIEW

v W/^/y/*w^^^^^

SHOWING BETTER VALUES, BIG ASSORTMENT

1922

\Ve Are Specialists

Mona Lisa Veils —

All shades. From $18.00 per £ross up.
Buy in quantities. Stock limited.
You will sell more at the new price.

VEILINGS, FANCY VEILS, LACES

Stoffels Organdy and Dotted Swiss —

The daddy of them all.

72 newest shades — twice as many as shown by
any other manufacturer, and each one correct
■Colors must be seen to be appreciated.

Dynamo Maline-
All shades. Reduced prices.

Buy From Headquarters

Our salesmen are the only ones showing complete ran&e.
A card will insure you seeing these &oods.

vvrite Us Immediately

CANADA VEILING CO., LIMITED

84-86 Wellington Street West, Toronto

5 5

s s

* IA Ayr V

y ////////;/;/;;;M;;/;/;///M//////////MMW^^^

DRY GOODS REVIEW

STOFFEL & CO.

The Largest Manufacturers of Cotton Fabrics in

SWITZERLAND

TRANSPARENT ORGANDIES

Batistes Nainsooks Jaconas Fancies

Fine Muslins Voiles Crepes Dotted Swisses

"IT IS STOFFEL'S"

— the finest praise that can be bestowed upon an Organdie

STOCK CARRIED IN TORONTO IMMEDIATE DELIVERY

To the Wholesale and Manufacturing Trade only

HERON & TAYLOR

77 York Street - Toronto

SOLE AGENTS FOR CANADA

PROFITS

In
GIRDLES - BELTS - BEADS

SWISS ORGANDY

DOT MUSLINS

VEILS - VEILING

"CANADIAN BE A UTY"

Double or Single Mesh

REAL HAIR NETS

SWISS BABY DRESSY
MADEIRA CEN ['RES
JEC1 S -

MILITARY BRAIDS - TASSELS
Mail Orders Promptly Attended To

The

H. G. Tod Company

78 Bay Street, Toronto

ALL OUR ENERGY

Is concentrated on the supply-
ing of distinctive

VEILS
VEILINGS
BEADS
NECKLETS

as well as
LACES and BLUE BIRD
HAIR NETS

Travellers are now on the road
with new Spring Samples. Be
sure to see our line.

THE ADAMS-BARRETT CO.

324 Empire Building

64 Wellington St. West

TORONTO

DRY GOODS REVIEW

True Irish Linen

Ask for the Linen
Hallmark!

You are entitled to a guar,
antee when you pay for
True Irish Linen made of
pure flax yarn.

Not only you
customers too.

but your

The Irish Linen Society
adopted the use of the
Linen Hallmark for this
very purpose.

Any member of the Linen
Society may use the Seal
on pure flax goods — in
addition to private brands
or trade marks.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

True IrishLinen

You can feature, display
and advertise the use of
the Seal to your customers
without any suggestion of
pushing one manufactur-
er's individual brand.

The Hallmark is as imper-
sonal — and in its relation
as valuable — as the Do-
minion government's
imprint which makes
legal tender out of other-
wise meaningless bits of
metal.

Tell the next linen sales-
man who calls on you
that you want the Linen
Hallmark on all pure flax
goods.

^e IRISH LINEN SOCIETY

BELFAST IRELAND

-**

American Office, 5231j West 39th Street
New York City

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Buy What You Can Sell Quickly

T^detallic Laces
7\ew Designs
New Prices

Handkerchiefs
J\ew designs will
he ready shortly.

J\ew friends are made for your store by offering Better Value than your Competitor*.

You will be interested in the lines being shown in our new department
which is now in an outstanding position to give you excellent service in all the
latest European novelties in : Radium, Metal and Chantilly Laces, Sequin
and Bead trimmings, Fancy Voiles, Dotted Swiss Muslins, plain Organdies
and Swiss Neckwear.

H. P. Ritchie fe? Company

Manufacturers — Metallic Laces — Handkerchiefs —

DRY GOODS REVIEW

"Buy From the Maker"

^1 ■' 9ti JIT lSHk

intern Jfc"x

yvrite or vvire
for

^^^iL #4jP^"~ M: H

"Merre Maid"
the dress that

our Salesman

is different.

Now

^,^fl <*|

For children

1/ ■

two to six.

Er 1

1^4*?

" W hen Customers

back

again

There is something in the Ritchie Silk Range that keeps the trade coming
throughout the year. — Camisoles — Env elopes — Night Gowns — Negligees —
Step-ins — Bloomers — Underskirts.

rassieres

The number of Ritchie customers who have repeated their order is one evi-
dence of the splendid quality and value offered.

The Ritchie policy of seeing that you are satisfied still and always will hold
good.

38-42 Clifford Street, Toronto

— Embroideries — Silk Lingerie and Children s Dresses

DRY GOODS REVIEW

\^z

The Trade Mark "OH Bleach"
is stamped on every article
■except Table Damasks, which
have the above mark woven
in four corners.

A special interest is being shown in
"Old Bleach" embroidery linen
throughout the Dominion.
Make a store display of "Old Bleach"
merchandise. It will attract many po-
tential customers, and help to build a
bigger turnover in your Linen Depart-
ment.

Thf

,99

R, S < Trad. Mark

23-25 East 96™ Street New York

J.R LAMONT MANAGER Q G

[CANADIAN REPRESENTATIVE

22 West Wellington Street, Toronto, Ont.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

9fe G/ovQ? and IHoSlQW 7/oU6V <gf Qanctda

Gloves, Hosiery & Underwear

For Fall 1922

\j /OUCS* ^k gloves will not be any lower in price as the season advances. A
glance at the chart shown on an editorial page of this issue illustrates
the trend of prices in raw silk. As raw silk purchases will only cover
production for a very limited time the wise merchant will see the
necessity of placing his requirements early. Silk lingerie is similarly
affected.

MM OSICm y • Increases on raw material made necessary a stiffening of prices
on all lines of hosiery on December 1 st. Cashmere hose increased
2 to 1 per cent. Silk 1 to 15 per cent. With the tendency to-
ward improved conditions any retrograde movement is unlikely.
Furthermore, there is a marked scarcity of cashmere yarns and
heather combinations bid fair to be just as popular for next fall.

\J TXCLQlXJuQClV I Though perhaps not as marked as in hosiery there is a

noticeable increase in underwear prices. However, next
fall will come with very small stocks carried over because
of the light placing done this past season.

Therefore, an intelligent observation of conditions indicates the advisability
of placing requirements at the first opportunity.

' Representatives will shortly be on their territories for Fall 1 922 placing.

Richard L. Baker & Co., Limited

TORONTO

MILL SELLING AGENTS:

S. LENNARD & SONS, LTD. AVOX HOSIERY, LTD. ST. CATHARINES SILK MILLS, LTD.

GRIFFIN GLOVES, LTD. VENUS SILK HOSIERY MILLS, LTD.

LONDON HOSIERY MILLS, LTD.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

The Success of

'ue&tO,

Silk Gloves

ACHIEVED in the short period of seven years has been more than gratifying.
We believe it has been due to two things primarily; first: the strict adherence
to a standard of quality that permitted of no compromise on even the smallest
detail. Second: a recognized leadership in style and novelty of design.

Success has been the lot of merchants who depended on Queen Quality for
their glove department.

Make sure of pour share for Fall 1922.

iiniiiiiimmii urn

'ueetO,

Glove Silk Lingerie

IS MADE OF the same fabric as Queen Quality gloves. Thus its extraordin-
ary lasting qualities.

This beautiful silk fabric lends itself to many beautiful designs whose appeal
to women on the score of daintiness is only equalled by their practicability in
milady's toilette. The utmost comfort in wear with the quality of allowing the
gown to fall in perfect lines is an added attraction it is well to feature.

SPRING 1922 SORTING
FALL 1922 PLACING

lines are in the hands of our representatives who will be on their way shortly.

ST. CATHARINES SILK-MILLS

Limited
ST. CATHARINES

DRY GOODS REVIEW

°7/w Glov&s and Tiosioty 7/ou&e <g/ Ganadg

Griffin Glove

means

\jhatno$u

CHAMO Suede means fabric gloves of attractive original design
in a wide variety of shades and contrasting effects, perfect fit,
long wear, washability, economy.

This all means business with a capital B for the glove department
that is well supplied with Griffin Chamo Suede for Fall 1922.

We are showing new designs and effects that are in themselves a
reason for seeing the full range at the first opportunity and securing
your requirements.

H^V

LIMITED

TORONTO

Sole SoUtna Agents

Richard LBaker^Ga

LIMITED

84 Wellington StWest
Toronto

DRY GOODS REVIEW

94? O/ov&s and Hosioty 7/ou<?e <©/" Ghnaob

PURE SILK

HOSIERY

Venus
Clocked Hosiery

THOUGH it made its bow late this fall, it met
with such a reception that production in this
line as well as regular Venus hose in plain and
ribbed tops was soon sold up. Venus reputation grows
constantly, and as production must necessarily reach
its limit at some stage, it is a case of the early bird
gets delivery.

Venus Silk Hosiery Mills

Limited

TORONTO - ONTARIO

[O NDON KNIT

Hose

for Fall 1922

T NCLUDES a beautiful assortment of the fancy lovatt's and heathers for

men and women, and hosiery of quality in such variety of cotton, lisle, silk

lisle, cashmere, fibre silk, for all the family that a London Hose Department

will be a complete department.

Samples for Fall 1 922 are with our representatives now. They are on the way.

fmn.iur

NDONTASS

Made in
Canada

London Hosiery Mills

London
Ontario

DRY GOODS REVIEW

The Mark of Fine Merchandise

With Spring and Sum-
mer comes the renewed
demand for

(Keg-d)

"Viyella

J (Reg 1

"Aza"

(Reg'd)

"Clydella"

•^ (Rea'd)

Unshrinkable Flannels

for use in the ever-popular
wash-blouse, sport-skirt,
etc. Our Spring 1922
price list shows further
reductions and is avail-
able on request, together
with samples.

Stock in Toronto

WM. HOLLINS & CO., LTD

(OF ENGLAND)

62 Front Street W., Toronto

Wm. Hollins & Co., Inc., 45 E. 17th Street, New York

"Canadian Made"
COTTON BATTING

The higher grades of
snow-white Cotton Bat-
ting are being demanded
by retail customers.

VICTORY

Small Size Batts

POLAR BEAR

Comforter Size Batts
are superior to the finest
imported Batts and the
price to the merchant is
especially attractive in
comparison.

Your wholesaler will sup-
ply you with these lines,
also the following

NORTH STAR ,

CRESCENT

PEARL

Small Style
Batting

K. P.

Comforter
Style Battins

THE DOMINION
WADDING CO.,

LIMITED
MONTREAL

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Helpful Hints For the Silk Salesman

Origin of Silk Goes Back to China — Broad Silks Woven in Europe
in Fourteenth Century — Reached England in Sixteenth Century —
British Silks Become Rival of Continental Productions — Arti-
ficial Silk and Its Various Uses — Where it is Manufactured

TO THE successful salesman of silks
knowledge of the origin, texture and
quality of the materials, is one of the
essentials of successful salesmanship. In
this article, these points are constructively
dealt with.

The origin of silk seems in all ages to have
been associated with China. Some authori-
ties even tell us that the name "China" has
been derived from the Chinese name for
silk, 'Ssu.' From China it was brought west-
ward through Persia and India and the Med-
iterranean, in the earliest times.

Broad silks were not woven in Europe
much before the fourteenth century. It is
possible that the religious institutions gave
some attention to this branch of weaving —
for it was these orders which introduced
many of the trades as well as the arts —
but silk weaving was not established on a
commercial basis until about 1455. The in-
dustry was introduced into the British Isles
by the Dutch and Flemish immigrants, who
fled from the rule of Charles V. and Alva
in the sixteenth century. Settling in London,
Norwich, Manchester and Ipswich, they
improved upon all the methods of textile
weaving which were used in England. In
the southern provinces of France, the silk
industry had reached , at this time, even great-
er perfection. The French, with their apti-
tude for learning quickly, had made silks
which rivalled the work of the Italians
who taught them the trade. When the
French Huguenots, who were for the most
part the inhabitants of the southern provinc-
es, emigrated to England, in the early seven-
teenth century they were received in that
country with open arms. The direct result
of their coming was that the silks of Britain
now rival the productions of the continent.
The raw silk imported into Britain during
1920 totalled over £35,000,000. Hand-
weaving has given place almost universally in
England, as in other countries, to machine
work, but there are authorities who believe
that the old method was, in many ways,
superior.

Artificial Silk

Artificial silk is the most recent addition
to the world's important textile fibres.
Although it has only been used commercially
in America for about ten or twelve years, it
is now a staple article among commercial
fabrics. Artificial silk was, at one time, any
product made to resemble natural silk;
it is a term now applied only to the cellulose
silk. This artificial silk is cellulose almost
in a pure state and is obtained by dissolving
vegetable fibres, of which cellulose in the
chief constituent. The solution is forced
through minute apertures into a fixing bath
which coagulates the cellulose and removes
all other matter. As the solution dissolves
from each tiny hole and solidifies, a contin-
uous filament is formed which can be reeled

and combined with other filaments to form
a thread. There are several processes used
in making this cellulose material, which dif-
fer only in the fixing material used and in
raw materials. Some use cotton as a base
and others wood-pulp in making the cellu-
lose.

Artificial silk is so unlike natural silk,
both chemically and in physical appearance,
that there has not been direct competition,
so far between the two. The high lustre of
artificial silk, which is generally superior to
the natural product, and its lower price,
have enabled it to fill a unique place between
mercerized cotton and natural silk. It has
of course, much less elasticity than the nat-
ural product but it is from 10 to 20 per cent
heavier. Natural silk is practically unalter-
ed by contact with water, while artificial
silk swells rapidly and loses about 60 per
cent of its strength, unless handled with
great care. This weakness is, however,
overcome by many manufacturers by com-
bining the artificial fibres with other raw
materials which can stand wetting. It is
still impossible to guarantee perfect results
in dyeing artificial silk.

Present Uses of Artificial Silk

AT ONE time, this fabric was restricted
to braids, millinery and dress trimmings
because it was inflammable and perishable
in water. Both of these defects have been so
improved upon, that it is now used for hos-
iery, sweaters and in fact all kinds of knit-
ted goods. It is woven with natural silk,
cotton or other fibre, into dress goods,
such as satins and fancy silks and into
shirtings and tapestries. Plushes, carpets
and imitation furs are now being made of
artificial silk and many kinds of fringes,
tassels and novelties. It is even valuable
in the manufacture of gas mantles, elastics,
shoe laces and other articles of minor im-
portance. Powder bags and gas masks were
sometimes constructed during the war with
a combination of this and other materials.

So far, artificial silk has supplemented
rather than competed with natural silk.
The present condition of the silk market,
however, offers the possibility of severe
competition between artificial silk and the
lower grades of natural silk. The field of
mercerized cotton is also being encroached
upon by artificial silk. The latter has not
the wearing qualities but it has the silky
appearance which favors its substitution.

Great Possibilities for the Process Used

Since labor rather than raw material is
the principal item in making artificial silk,
manufacturers believe that in the future,
when these costs have been reduced to
a minimum by means of more perfected
machines, other materials may be made.

By increasing the size of theapertur throughe
which the cellulose solution is forced, arti-
ficial hair may be produced. Artificial
straw, leather, ribbons, and cloth are things
to be expected of the process.

The chief countries in the world engaged
in the production of natural silk are France,
Belgium, Germany and Switzerland. Italy,
England and the UnitedJStates have now
begun its manufacture in real earnest.
Even Japan, the home of natural silk,|is
undertaking artificial silk on a small scale.
The present big demand for this material
is for hosiery, particularly in the United
States and Canada.

Canadian Buyers

To Attend Fair

Plans For British Industries Fair Are

Progressing Well — Facilities

For Overseas Men

That many Canadian buyers will
visit the eighth annual British Indus-
tries Fair, to be held in London and
Birmingham from 27th February to
10th March, was the statement made
in an interview by the British Trade
Commissioner in this district. Buyers
believe that the market is more stable
and that a renewal of their overseas
purchasing visits is due. This Fair is
Britain's annual display of her manu-
factures and industries and the trade
buyers' opportunity of selecting good*
for the ensuing season's trade.

A very large number of industries
will ibe represented at the Fair and a
descriptive pamphlet containing a list
of such will be mailed to intending-
visitors, tog-ether with a compliment-
ary admission card, on application to
the British Trade Commissioners in
Canada. Their addresses are: — 248 St.
James Street, Montreal; 260 Confed-
eration Life Building, Toronto; and 610-
Electrical Railway Chambers, Winnipeg.

The function of the British Indus-
tries Fair is to bring buyers and sell-
ers together and to facilitate business
between them. Goods can be inspect-
ed, prices compared and definite order*
placed at the Fair.

The promotion of a successful trade
fair cannot be achieved by good organ-
ization alone. Of greater importance
are quality and price of the goods
shown. In both London and Birming-
ham the management of the Fair has
itlhe advi|ce of Oommittees which in-
clude the names of (prominent ! >usi-
(Continued on page 27)

DRY GOODS REVIEW

The Cotton Trade in 1921

Sir Charles W. Macara Summarizes Conditions in
1921 — Believes That World Supply Adequate For
1922 And Price Tendency Will Be Upwards —
Cost of Production Will Remain Higher Than In
Pre-war Days — Difficulties To Be Faced

SIR CHARLES W. Macara is a noted
world authority on cotton, and as this
material is basic to many of the
lines handled by dry goods and men's
wear dealers his summary of the condi-
tions affecting the cotton industry dur-
ing 1921, together with a forecast of
conditions in 1922 is well worth consider-
ing. He says: —

The year for cotton has been one of
the worst we have ever known. In ad-
dition to a strike, we have experienced
a long spell of short time, due partly to
the extremely high prices to which cot-
ton goods soared, causing an unprece-
dented reduction in consumption. It has
always to be borne in mind that cotton
fabrics are the clothing of the poorest
people all over the world, and conse-
quently the great rise in prices affected
the people who could least afford to
buy cotton goods.

Then, when trade might have begun
to prevail, we had a campaign of
"slump," which started in America at
the latter end of 1920, and destroyed
confidence all over the world. People
were given the idea that great reduc-
tions in the prices of goods were bound
to follow immediately upon reports of
cheaper cotton, whereas, had they but
known it, there could be no substantial
fall owing to the high costs of produc-
tion and the fact that much time must
elapse before the raw material becomes
the finished article. In the case of the
finer goods, the processes often extend
over a period of twelve months or more.
These stupid slump reports, therefore,
were responsible for leading the trad-
ing community and the consumer to
cease buying, and many of those in the
trade, equally misled, declined to take
up goods that had been ordered from
the manufacturers and merchants. The
result has been chaos, and many noted
firms, which from the nature of their
business are obliged to carry large
stocks and have heavy commitments,
have incurred serious losses.

For some time to come, we are not
likely to be in any special difficulty with
respect to the over-production of ma-
chinery; what is troubling the cotton
spinner and manufacturer just now is the
instability of the prices of the raw ma-
terial and the uncertainty there is as
to the growing of cotton later on. Ow-
ing to bad trade and the reduction in the
output of our mills during the past twelve
months, we have no anxiety as to the
cotton available at present, despite the
feverish operations that have followed
the issue of the disappointing report

'.-n the American cotton crop issued by
the Washington Bureau of Agriculture
at the beginning of September. There
can be no immediate cause for worry,
seeing that the cotton in hand and in
view is equal to the amount available
in the super-year of 1914-15. Then the
amount of the American crop was of-
ficially reported to be 15,100,000 bales,
but I have reason to believe the figure
to have been in reality round about 17,-
500,000 bales. My' views are corroborat-
ed by the great carry-over we have at
present. The Bureau now reports that
the crop for the present season, owing
to the restriction of acreage of the
planters, will be 7,037,000 bales only,
but even so, taking these figures as
reliable (and I have found that these
American cotton figures should always
be taken cum grano salis), there would,
with the second carry-over of 9,194,000
bales from last season, be no less than
16,231,000 bales disposable. Even should
a portion of this be unsuitable for the
spinner, we are likely to have enough
and to spare of cotton for the next 12
months, seeing that for the last three
years the total world's consumption of
American cotton has averaged but a
little over 11,000,000 bales a year.
Trade in the Future
The disturbing factor is as to the at-
titude of the planter with regard to the
next and subsequent seasons, seeing that
he has been so scared by our near-sight-
ed policy of allowing cotton to fall below
the cost of production. I have shown
over and over again, both before and
during the war, how suicidal it must
be for the manufacturer to get his cot-
ton at a price which would not pay
the grower to produce, and how in the
end it would result in cotton not being
in sufficient quantity to meet the world's
demand for cotton fabrics. To obviate
this, I have counselled the storing of
cotton in years when, owing to one cir-
cumstance or another, we have had a
big surplus, but my advice has been
disregarded. This season what I pro-
phesied has happened, planters having
allowed nearly half their cotton acreage
to go out of cultivation. Our big carry-
over is our salvation at the moment,
but what is to happen if we only get
half a crop next year and the year af-
ter that? It will he n errim lesson to
not only Lancashire but to the whole
world. The costs in the plantations, as
everywhere else, have been enormously
increased of late years, and the grow-
ers must either be compensated or go
out of business.

Four facts, therefore, emerge with
clearness. One is that cotton in future
is bound to be dearer than in the past;
another, that the cost of the production
of cloth will remain much higher than
in pre-war days; thirdly, that the world
will have to make up its mind to pay a
higher figure than formerly for all ar-
ticles of cotton manufacture, seeing that,
with all the "writing down," goods in
stock and in process of manufacture
are still double what they were before
the war; and, fourthly, that as England
and America, the two principal factors
in the cotton industry, have reduced their
working hours to 48 per week, and there
is a possibility of other cotton countries
falling into line, we shall have to face
a permanent reduction in output of ai
least 15 to 20 per cent.

What we in the cotton trade in Lanca-
shire fear more than foreign rivalry
is that, when the long overdue revival
does come, we shall have a repetition
of the conditions of the first few months
of 1920, when, owing to the wild state
of the markets, it was not a question of
price, but a question of delivery. This
would be disastrous for everybody, and
would prevent the trade from settling
down to a long, steady period of work.
I must say, however, that, unless the
standard of clothing in the world is to
be reduced very materially, I cannot see
how, when the demand starts, it is to
be supplied adequately with the present
reduced hours in the mills and a con-
siderable proportion of the cotton ma-
chinery on the continent of Europe still
out of working order.

CANADIAN BUYERS TO

ATTEND FAIR

(Continued from Page 26)
ness men Who devote much time and
thought to the arrangement of the
Fair, thus insuring a display of goods
complete, alike from the point of view
of diversity and excellence.

The progressive man of business,
whether buyer or seller, has recognized
in the trade fair an essential element
in the machinery of modern commerce.
It is at the British Industries Fair
that new ideas in manufacture are
found displayed alongside well-known
staples.

The Fair provides a great stimulus
to competition. With many manufac-
turers in an industry exhibiting their
products side by side, rivalry is keen,
and the buyer pro! it * accordingly.

Every possible facility is at the
disposal of Canadian buyers who visit
the Fair which will be found to be
the finest display of quality goods in
the world.

Novelty metal girdles show great promise
for sprine. They are replacing those of
self material especially on the dark col-
ored suits and gowns.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

"Where to buy British Goods"

A directory of some of the lines made by British firms advertising in this issue.

ALBUMS

Marcus Riches, London.

BEDSPREADS

John Watson, Manchester, "Linwear
Brand."

BLANKETS (WOOL)

Priestley Brothers, Halifax.

BLIND FITTINGS

James Carr & Sons, Ltd., Manchester.

BLOUSE FABRICS (COTTON)

The Hollins Mill Co., Ltd., Manchester.
BRASS PINS

Kirby Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham.
BUCKRAMS

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow.
CALICOES (WHITE & GREY)

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester.
CABINETS

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham.
CAP CLOTHS

Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., Longwood,

Yorks.
CASEMENT CLOTHS

The Hollins Mill Co., Ltd., Manchest-
er

Jauffred & Gariel, "Lion Crest Brand"
Manchester.

John King & Son, Glasgow.

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester.
CASEMENT NETS

C. & J. Robertson, Glasgow.
COATS (KNITTED) MEN'S & BOY'S

Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick.
CLOTHWORKERS

Jennens' Welch & Co., Ltd., Hudders-

field.
COATS

Studd & Millington, Ltd., London.
COLLAR VELVETS
J. & J. M. Worral, Ltd., Manchester.
COTTONS

Horrockses, Crewdson Co., Ltd., Man-
chester.
CORDUROYS

Browne, Jackson & Co., Manchester.

COSTUME CLOTHS

Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., Longwood,

Yorks.
COTTON GOODS (PRINTED)

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London.
CRETONNES

Jauffred & Gariel, Manchester.

"Lion Crest Brand."
CURTAINS (CASEMENT)

John Watson, Manchester.
CURTAINS (LACE)

0. Balthasar & Co., London.

W. G. Emmett & Co., Nottingham.

Dobsons & M. Browne & Co. Ltd., Not-
tingham.

C. & J. Robertson, Glasgow.

Wilson & Co., Glasgow.

CUSHION CASES

John Watson, Manchester.

DIAPHALENE

Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Ltd.,
Manchester.

DRESS FABRICS (COTTON)

The Hollins Mill Co. Ltd., Manchester.

DRESS GOODS

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London.
DRESS LININGS

The Hollins Mill Co. Ltd., Manchester.
DRILLS (WHITE & DYED)

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester.

DUCHESS SETS (LINEN & LACE)

0. Balthasar & Co., London.

DUCKS & PIQUES

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester.

DUSTERS & POLISHING CLOTHS

John Watson, Manchester.

ENGLISH OVERCOATS

Studd & Millington, Ltd., London.
EXAMINERS

Jennens, We'ch & Co., Ltd., Hudders-

field.
FANCY LEATHER GOODS

Marcus Riches, London.
FLANNELETTES

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchestei-.

Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Ltd.,
Manchester.
FLANNELETTES (COTTON)

The Hollins Mill Co., Ltd., Manchest-
er.
FOOTWEAR (INFANTS)

Infants' Footwear Ltd., London.

FRINGE

James Carr & Sons, Ltd., Manchester.

FRINGE NETS (SILK)

The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd.,
Nottingham.

FURNISHING FABRICS

Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., Longwood,

Yorks.

John Watson, Manchester.

GALATEAS

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester.
GOLF COATS

Wm. Gibson & Co., Ltd., Nottingham.
HABERDASHERY

F. Newton & Co., London.
HAIR NETS (SILK)

The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd.,

Nottingham.
HAIR PINS (VARIOUS)

The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd.,

Nottingham.

HALF HOSE (PLAIN & EMBROIDER-
ED)

Wm. Gibson & Son, Ltd., Nottingham.

HALF HOSE (SEAMLESS & FASH-
IONED)

Wm. Gibson & Son, Ltd., Nottingham.

HALF HOSE (STRIPED & FANCY)

Wm. Gibson & Son, Ltd., Nottingham.
HANDKERCHIEFS

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London.
HAIRPIN BOXES

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham.
HAIRPINS

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham.
HOSE (PLAIN & EMBROIDERED)

Wm. Gibson & Son, Ltd., Nottingham.

HOSE (SEAMLESS & FASHIONED)

Wm. Gibson & Son, Ltd., Nottingham.

HOSIERY (LADIES')

Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick.

HOSIERY (MENS)

Peter Scott & Co. Ltd., Hawick.
ITALIANS (COTTON)

The Hollins Mill Co., Ltd. Manchester.

KNITTED COATS & JUMPERS
(LADIES')

Peter Scott & Co. Ltd., Hawick.

KNITTED COATS AND JUMPERS
(Children's)

Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick.
LACES (ALL KINDS OF HAND
MADE)

0. Balthasar & Co., London.
LACES & EMBROIDERY

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London.
LAUNDRY CLOTHS

Riggs Bros. Ltd., Manchester.
LAWNS (PERSIAN)

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow.

LAWNS (VICTORIA)

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow.
LININGS (DRESS & TAILORS)

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester.
LONGCLOTHS

Riggs Bros., Ltd., Manchester.
Horrockes, Crewdson & Co.. Man-
chester.

MADAPOLAMS

Riggs Bros., Ltd., Manchester.
MILLINERY

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London.
MOTOR CAR LININGS

Joseph Hovle & Son, Ltd., Longwood.

Yorks,

DRY GOODS

SV1 £W

7&:

MUSLINS (BOOK)

Wilson & Co., Glasgow.

MUSLINS (FANCY)

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow.
MUSLINS (HARNESS)

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow.
MUSLINS (MADRAS)

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow.

C. & J. Robertson, Glasgow.

Wilson & Co., Glasgow.
MUSLINS (MILLINERY)

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow.
MUSLINS (ROBE)

Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow.
Wilson & Co., Glasgow.
NAINSOOKS

The Hoi ins Mill Co. Ltd., Manchester.
Robert Morton & Sons, Glasgow.
Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Man-
chester.
NECKTIES OR NECKWEAR

Gillett & Ewer, London.
NEEDLE CASES

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham.
NEEDLES

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham.
NETS (ARTIFICIAL SILK & ALL
SILK, PLAIN & SPOTTED)
The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd.,
Nottingham.
NETS (COTTON) PLAIN & SPOTTED
The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd.,
Nottingham.
NETS (FANCY)

Dobsons & M. Browne & Co. Ltd., Not-
tingham.
W. G. Emmett & Co., Nottingham.
C. & J. Robertson, Glasgow.
NETS (LACE)

Wilson & Co., Glasgow.
NETS ( MOSQUITO)
Dobsons & M. Browne & Co., Ltd., Not-
tingham.
OVERCOATINGS

Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., Longwood,
Yorks.
OVERCOATS

Studd & Millington, Ltd., London.

PACKERS

Jennens We'ch & Co., L*:d., Hudders-
field.

PILLOW COTTONS

Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Ltd., Man-
chester.

PILLOW CASES

Thos. Potter & Son, Manchester.
John Watson, Manchester "Linwear"
Brand.

PLATED PINS

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham.
PRINTS

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester.

PYJAMA FABRICS (COTTON)

Wi'son, Knowles & Co., Manchester.

QUILTS (DOWN)

John Watson, Manchester, "Eagledown
Brand."

RIBBON CLOTHS

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester.
RIBBONS

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London.
SYFETY PINS

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham.

SAXONIES

Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., Longwood,
Yorks.

SCARF MANUFACTURERS (SILK)
GENTS

Gille t & Ewer, London.

SCARVES (LADIES)

Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick.
Scott Bros. & Co., Hawick.

SCARVES (MEN)

Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick.

SERGES

Anderson & Thomson, Aberdeen.

SHEETING— SCOTCH COTTON
(PLAIN & TWILLED)

John King & Son, Glasgow.

SHEETINGS (WHITE & GRAY)

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester.

SHEETS AND SHEETING

The Hollins Mill Co. Ltd., Manchester.
Riggs Bros., Ltd., Manchester.
Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Man-
chester.
SHEETS & SHEETINGS (BLEACHED)
Thos. Potter & Son, Manchester.

SHIRTINGS (COTTON)

The Hollins Mill Co. Ltd., Manchester.
SHIRTINGS (FANCY)

Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Man-
chester.

SHRINKERS

Jennens We'ch & Co., Ltd., Huddeis-
field.

SILKS

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London.

SMALLWARES

James Carr & Sons Ltd., Manchester.
F. Newton & Co., London.

SPORTS COATS

Studd & Millington, Ltd., London.
STEEL PINS

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham.
SUITINGS

Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., Longwood,

Yorks.
SWEATERS (KNITTED) MEN'S
AND BOYS

Peter Scott & Co. Ltd., Hawick.
TAILOR LININGS (COTTON)

The Hollins Mill Co. Ltd., Manchester.
TAILORS TRIMMINGS

Anderson & Thomson, Aberdeen.
TAPES

James Carr & Son. Ltd., Manchester.

Geo. H. Wheatcroft & Co., Wirksworth.
TEACLOTHS (LINEN & LACE)

O. Balthasar & Co., London.
THREADS (LINEN)

The Island Spinning Co.. Lisburn,
Ireland.
TIE & SCARF MANUFACTURERS

Gillett & Ewer, London.
TIES

Gillett & Ewer, London.
TOWELS & TOWELLINGS

Thoa Potter & Son, Manchester.
UNDER WEAR (LADIES) KNITTED

Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick
UNDERWEAR (LADIES & CHILDS)

Wm. Gibson & Son. Nottingham.
UNDERWEAR (MEDIUM & FINE)

Wm. Gibson & Son, Nottingham.

UNDERWEAR (MENS) COTTON &
LISLE

Wm. Gibson & Son, Nottingham.
UNDERWEAR (MEN'S) KNITTED

Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick.
UNDERWEAR (CHILDREN'S) KNIT-
TED

Peter Scott & Co., Ltd., Hawick.
UNDERWEAR (MEN'S) PLATED &
ALL WOOL

Wm. Gibson & Son, Nottingham.
UPHOLSTERY WEB & TRIMMING

James Carr & Sons Ltd., Manchester.

VEILINGS (SILK)— BY YARD AND
COMPLETE

The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd.,
Nottingham.
VEILS (VARIOUS)

The Byard Manufacturing Co., Ltd.,
Nottingham.

VELOUR CLOTH

J. & J. M. Worrall, Ltd., Manchester.
VELOURS

Joseph Hoyle & Sons, Longwood,

Yorks.
VELVETS

Browne, Jackson & Co., Manchester.

Pawsons & Leafs, Ltd., London.

J. & J. M. Worrall, Ltd., Manchester.
VITRAGES

W. G. Emmett & Co., Nottingham.
VOILES

Wilson & Co., Glasgow.
WATERPROOF COATS

Studd & Mi lington, Ltd., London.
WATERPROOFERS

Jennens Welch & Co., Ltd., Hudders-

field.
WATERPROOFING FABRICS

Riggs Bros. Ltd., Manchester.
WEBBING

James Can- & Sons. Ltd., Manchester.
WINDOW AND BED DECORATIONS
(LACE)

Dobsons & M. Browne & Co. Ltd., Not-
tingham.

WINDOW HOLLANDS (SCOTCH)

John King & Son, Glasgow.

WINDOW SHADE CLOTH

John King & Son, Glasgow.
WOOLLEN MANUFACTURERS

Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd. Longwood,
Yorks.

WOOLLENS

Anderson & Thomson, Aberdeen.

WORK BOXES

Kirby, Beard & Co., Ltd., Birmingham.
WRITING CASES

Marcus Riches, London.

YARN SPINNERS

J. & W. Bastard, Leicester.

YARNS (BOTANY)

J. & W. Bastard, Leicester.

YARNS (KNITTING)

J. & W. Bastard, Leicester.

YARNS (WORSTED)

J. & W. Bastard, Leicester.

J. Carmichael & Co., Leicester.

ZEPHYRS

Wilson, Knowles & Co., Manchester.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

AGENTS IN CANADA

A LIST OF NAMES AND ADDRESSES OF AGENTS AND REPRESENTATIVES IN CANADA
FOR BRITISH HOUSES ADVERTISING IN THIS ISSUE :

O. BALTHASAR & CO., LONDON

W. H. Steley, 22 W. Wellington St., Toronto.

J. & W. BASTARD, LEICESTER

The J. & W. Bastard (Boston) Co., 184 Sumner St.,
Boston, Mass.

BROWNE, JACKSON & CO., MANCHESTER

S. M. Hansher, 35 Wells Hill Ave., Toronto.

THE BYARD MANUFACTURING CO., LTD., NOT-
TINGHAM
Ontario and Quebec

J. L. & A. Iddon, 505 Carlaw Bldg., 28 Wellington
St. W., Toronto, and 30 St. John St., Montreal.
Manitoba and Saskatchewan

Cleat & Co., 708 Builders' Exchange, Winnipeg.
British Columbia and Alberta

McMaster & Co., Ltd., 301-321 Cordova St. W., Van-
couver, B.C.

JAMES CARR & SONS, LTD., MANCHESTER

D. F. Moore, Manchester Bldg., Toronto.

H. E. Walker, 601 Mercantile Bldg., Vancouver.

DOBSONS & M. BROWNE & CO., LTD., NOTTING-
HAM

Mr. Alf. J. Burrows, travels Canada.
W. G. EMMETT & CO., NOTTINGHAM

J. Dudgeon & Co., 809 Unity Bldg., Montreal.

W. GIBSON & SON, LTD., NOTTINGHAM

Allan & Macpherson, 31-33 Melinda St., Toronto.

THE HOLLINS MILL CO., LTD., MANCHESTER

C. W. Dunning, Empire Bldg., Toronto.

WM. HOLLINS CO., LTD., LONDON

Canadian Branch Office, 62 Front St. W., Toronto.

HORROCKSES, CREWDSON & CO., MANCHESTER
AND LONDON

John E. Ritchie, 591 St. Catherine St. W., Montreal.
JOSEPH HOYLE & SON, LTD., LONGWOOD, YORKS

Archer Robertson, 327 Board of Trade Bldg., Mont-
real.

G. S. McConnell, 1,754 Barclay St., Vancouver, B.C.
ISLAND SPINNING CO., LTD., LISBURN, IRELAND

Walter Williams & Co., Ltd., Montreal, 508 Read

Bldg.; Toronto, 20 Wellington St. W.; Quebec, 533
St. Valier St.; Vancouver, 217 Crown Bldg.

JAUFFRED & GARIEL, MANCHESTER

G. H. Napier, 417 Coristine Bldg., Montreal.
A. Wilson, 91 Albert St., Winnipeg.

JOHN. KING & SON, GLASGOW

Campbell Smibert & Co., 329 Craig St. W., Montreal.
Campbell Smibert & Co., 76 Bay St., Toronto.

KIRBY, BEARD & CO., LTD., BIRMINGHAM

Mclntyre, Son & Co., Ltd., Victoria Square, Montreal.

THOS. POTTER & SON, MANCHESTER

H. Ward Dibb & Co., 505 New Birks Bldg., Montreal.
H. Ward Dibb & Co., 30 Wellington St. W., Toronto.

RIGGS BROS., LTD., MANCHESTER

E. W. Dean & Son, 32 Seymour St., Vancouver.
Mcintosh, Banfield & McClelland, 25 Toronto St.,
Toronto.

C. & J. ROBERTSON, GLASGOW

Edgar Fenton, 718 Empire Bldg., Toronto.

James B. Jamieson, 108 Wellington St. W., Toronto.

PETER SCOTT & CO., LTD., HAWICK

C. & A. G. Clark, 35 Wellington St. W., Toronto.

R. C. Poyser, 41 King's Hall Bldg., St. Catherine St.

W., Montreal.
Halley & Mackay Co., Hammon Bldg., Winnipeg.

STUDD & MILLINGTON, LTD., LONDON
Vancouver to Winnipeg

E. W. Dean & Son, 325 Howe St., Vnacouver.

Toronto to St. Johns
John F. Snarr, 64 Wellington St. W., Toronto.

JOHN WATSON, MANCHESTER

R. H. Ball & Co., 716 Empire Bldg., Toronto.
J. F. Hughes, 30 St. John St., Montreal.

GEORGE H. WHEATCROFT & CO., WIRKSWORTH

Walter Williams & Co., Ltd., Montreal, 508 Read
Bldg.; Toronto, 20 Wellington St. W.; Quebec, 533
St. Valier St.; Vancouver, 217 Crown Bldg.

WILSON, KNOWLES & CO., MANCHESTER

G. B. Oliver, 116 Mail Bldg., 106 Bay St., Toronto.

The Byard Manufacturing Co. Ltd.

Telegrams: "Halo," Nottingham. Code: A.B.C. 6th Edition 5 letter.

Manufacturers of

LADIES' SILK HAIR NETS and FRINGE NETS. SILK VEILINGS in ALL VARIETIES.
WATERPROOF SILK and COTTON WIG NETS.
SILK and COTTON PLAIN NETS. SILK ILLUSION and BRUSSELS NETS.

SPOTTED and STRIPED NETS. MOSQUITO and BRETONNE NETS

SAMPLES AND PRICES ON APPLICATION

WHOLESALE AND EXPORT ONLY

CASTLE BOULEVARD, NOTTINGHAM

See Directory of "British Agents in Canada" for Our Representatives

DRY GOODS REVIEW

3 1

mmmm

The Fine Scotch Underwear
with the Fine Scotch Finish

ii t ■ A00 much of a good thing"
can never apply to the
Pesco productions. The
lady, for instance, who has become
familiar with the quality and com-
fort of Pesco Underwear will in
all probability insist on buying
Pesco Hose.

Pesco Hose offers the same delight-
ful wear to women, and the same
advantages of ready sale to deal-
ers, as Pesco Underwear itself.
Theirs also is the quality appeal.
Sheer merit in making, shaping,
seaming, splicing and finish is evi-
dent in every number in the range.

Pesco Hose are obtainable in pure
wool and silk and wool, and in all
colours and mixtures. For dress and
sports wear there is nothing like
them. Nor is there anything in
Hosiery that will so easily satisfy
or so surely hold a client.

Sole Makers :

PETER SCOTT & CO., LTD.

Hiwick, Scotland

London (England): Carey House, Carey Lane, E.C 2

Agents in Canada :
Messrs. C. & A. G. Clark, 35 Wellington St. West,
Toronto. Mr. R. C. Poyser, 418 King's Hall Build-
ing;, St. Catherine St. W., Montreal, Messrs. Hanley

& Mackay Co., Hammond Building, Winnipeg.

Showcards, Window Tickets and Literature Supplied

Enquiries invited.

Obtainable in Pure Wool and Silk
and wool textures —

For Ladies — Combinations, Vests,
Spencers, Bodices. Drawers, Knick-
ers, Nightdresses. Kib Vests, etc..
etc.

For Children — Combinations, Night-
dresses, Sleeping Suits, Shirts.
Trousers, Knickers, etc., etc.

For Infants — Binders, Wraps, KUt-
lets, Gowns, etc.

For Gentlemen — Shirts, Trousers,
Combinations, etc., etc.
Also

Pesco Hose and Half Hose in Black,
Colours and Mixtures, and

Pesco Sports Coats, Jumpers, Under-

vests. Sweater Coats, Scarfs and Caps

in the latest styles and colour effects.

Guaranteed Unshrinkable

...••""•"'"•...

DRY GOODS REVIEW

wm/mm^m%m&i%mmmm

KING'S CELEBRATED
SCOTCH WINDOW HOLLANDS

have been made for one
are recognized throughout
most saleable shading. They
are unshrinkable, fast colors
and widths. To insure get
ers are advised to Examine
Also inside Holland Tab on
that each bears name of

hundred and forty years and
the world as the best and
are unequalled for quality,
and made in all colorings
ting genuine goods, custom-
Tickets and Paper Bands.
end of each piece and see
"John King & Son."

SOLD BY ALL LEADING WINDOW SHADE JOBBERS

Made by

JOHN KING & SON

GLASGOW, SCOTLAND

Established 1775
Canadian Representatives : CAMPBELL, SMIBERT & CO., MONTREAL and TORONTO

Robert Morton & Sons

MUSLIN MANUFACTURERS

34 Albion Street, Glasgow

- SPECIALTIES -

Buckrams - Sparteries - Marlys

MILLINERY MUSLINS IN BLACK,
WHITE AND COLORS

Also
PALE BOOKS, NAINSOOKS,
LAWNS, INDIAN LINENS,
PERSIAN LAWNS, CHECK
CRINOLINES, MADRAS AND
HARNESS MUSLINS, ETC.

Cables: Morton, Glasgow

Code: Marconi

Whitewear

At the First Sign of Spring

At the first sign of Spring, there will be a big
demand for India Long Cloths, Nainsooks,
Cambrics, Diaphalene, and other fine cottons
for which HORROCKSES are famous the
world over.

There is no advantage in holding your orders,
as all placed NOW will receive the benefit of
any reductions in price before shipment from
Manchester.

JOHN E. RITCHIE

CANADIAN AGENT.

591 St. Catherine Street West, Montreal.
Branches in Toronto and Vancouver.

UNITED STATES AGENTS:
Wri(?ht & Graham Co.. 110 Franklin St.. New York City

HORROCKSES, CREWDSON & CO.,
LIMITED

Cotton Spinners and Manufacturers.
MANCHESTER. England.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Mark

— the distinguishing symbol of the Bradford
Dyers' Association — lifts a product out of
the purely competitive class and makes it a
standardized staple for

This Season — Next Season — Always

Fabrics with the best dye and finish —
Fabrics of greater beauty, finer texture and
longer life — these are some of the business
recommendations back of the world-
known symbol —

THE

Bradford Dyers' Association:

master bhxdford loi^on

, 6 OXrORO S T
S^ PETERS 59.

Dept. 43
39 WELL 5'

128 O 129
CnLAPJIDE.t:C2

(ccmucjrr)

DRY GOODS REVIEW

HON CREST FABRICS

CASEMENTS

We keep up our large variety in 27in., 30in., and 50in.
Casements. Best value on the market.

CRETONNES

Extensive range in 30in. Domestic and Sateens.

Specially in 50in. Reversible and 50in. Taffeta Duplex.
High class and latest styles.

Through Wholesale and Shipping Only.

JAUFFRED & GARIEL

Manchester, England.

CANADIAN REPRESENTATIVES
George H. Napier, 417, Coristine Building, MONTREAL
Andrew Wilson - - - 91, Albert Street, WINNIPEG

Established over *a Cenlury-and-a-halj

M WM. GIBSON & SON

LIMITED

Hosiery and Underwear Manufacturers

Head Office and Warehouse :
THURLAND STREET. NOTTINGHAM, ENG.

Telegraphic Address : "Wigibson. Nottingham"

Factories: —

Lincoln Street, Nottingham. Cromford Street,
Nottingham. Castle Donington.

Gent's, Ladies' and Children's Under-
wear in Cotton, Lisle, Union Mixture
and All Wool, in weights to suit all
climates.

Plain and Fancy, Striped and Em-
broidered Hose and Half Hose, Seam-
less and Fashioned.

Registered Brands :
ACTION, COMMONWEALTH, HOMANCOL

Agents for Canada: —

Allan & Macpherson, 31-33 Melinda St., Toronto

Cables:

TOWELLINGS, MANCHESTER

A.B.C. 5th EDITION

THOS. POTTER & SON

LATE ELI LEES & CO., LTD.

MANUFACTURERS OF

WHITE, GREY, FANCY TURKISH AND
HONEYCOMB

TOWELS

BATH BLANKETS, TERRY CLOTHS,

ROLLERINGS

BLEACHED TWILL AND PLAIN

Sheets and Sheetings
31, MAJOR STREET, MANCHESTER

AGENTS

H. WARD DIBB & CO.

MONTREAL OFFICE
SOS NEW BIRKS BLDG.

HARLING & EAST

CARLAW BUILDINGS
JO WELLINGTON ST. W.

TORONTO

Telegrams:
'Wardibb, Toronto.

Telephone:
"Adelaide 1802'

DRY GOODS REVIEW

mfa&mv mmtfmjmmmm

The British Government

(Department of Overseas Trade)

Announces that the eighth annual

British Industries Fair

Will be held at

London and Birmingham

From

27th February to 10th March, 1922

All Canadian buyers are cordially
invited to attend.

A particularly fine and comprehen-
sive range of

Fancy Goods, Toys, Perfumery,
Carpets and Linoleum

will be shown in addition to many
other lines of manufactured goods.

Goods can be examined, values
compared and contracts concluded
at the Fair with the minimum of
trouble and the greatest saving of
time.

Full information and complimentary
admission cards are obtainable from :

H. M. Senior Trade Commissioner

248, St. James Street, Montreal.

H. M. Trade Commissioner

260, Confederation Life Building, Toronto.

H. M. Trade Commissioner

610, Electric Railway Chambers, Winnipeg.

■;-JF *"■

VELVET

Our many Canadian friends
are invited to write for sam-
ples and prices of our velvets.

We can promise prompt at-
tention to all Canadian en-
quiries as we give our export
department special consider-
ation.

Our well known "Elysian'
Velvet is, of course, a name
that guarantees quality and
satisfaction.

BROWNE, JACKSON & CO.

121, Princess Street

MANCHESTER, ENG.

Telegraphic Address:

Intense - Manchester

Agent for Canada:

S. M. HANSHER

35 Wells Hill Ave.

TORONTO

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Codes.-AB.C. 5 T .? Marconi Bentleys

EaceWindow
Decorations by

DOBSONSand
MBR0WNE&6I?

(The Amalgamated Firm^

Wholesalers and
Importers onlv

. • Factories^-"

Meadows MilLNoitirtfliam
Anglo-Scoiian Mills

■ Beeston ■

Victoria MiIlsJ)raycoit,

Burn'Road Mills,

" Darvcl^.B."

■Head Offices:-
Station Street
Nottinghamjing.

So*

$*"*£

IT'S NOT worth while
paying good money for
good cloth unless you en-
sure that it is properly
shrunk. Weave and weight
are readily tested and the
maker's name may not mat-
ter. It's the shrinker who
handles it last, and you need
his guarantee.

The best of all guarantees
of perfect shrinking is the
stamp of

JENNENS WELCH & CO., Ltd.

London, Huddersfield, [Bradford

— the world's premier firm of cloth
workers, shrinkers, finishers, etc.,
who are also the proprietors of the
renowned JENKWEL Waterproof
Rubberless Finish, applied to
tweeds, serges, coverts, fancy
worsted costume cloths, etc.

JENNENS WELCH & CO., LTD.

SpringwoodpWorks, Huddersfield

INFANTS FOOTWEAR Limited
LONDON, ENGLAND

Soft Sole Shoes
in Kid, Silk,
Poplin, Wool,
etc., and Hard
Sole Shoes,

Children's Woolly-Wear, Bonnets,

Gaiters, Mitts, etc

CANADIAN BRANCH

GREENE-SWIFT BUILDING

LONDON, ONTARIO.

0. BALTHASAR & CO.

11 Milk Street Bldg., Cheapside
London, E. C. 2.

(Established In 1860)

Specialists in, and direct importers of all make?
of— Lace Curtains, Hand Made Lace Goods-
Including French and Italian Linen and Lace
Tea Cloths, Duchess Sets, Bedspreads, Etc.

Represented By

W. H. Steley

22 West Wellington St., Toronto

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Tickets of admission can be
obtained from the office of
this paper.

ROVAL *
AGRICULTURAL
HALLLONDON

CLOTHING £rW001l£N TRADf S

^CLOTHING & WOOLLEN TRADES

MAR. 28-AP. 7

DRAPERY & TEXTILE TRADES

APR. 24-MAY 5

ORGANISERS :-

INTERNATIONAL TRADE EXHIBITIONS l™
BROAD STREET HOUSE, MEW BROAD 5TREETu>«don«.

cables: promenade AVE. lomdois

ESTABLISHED I89<^

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Autograph Albums

MANUFACTURED BY

Marcus Riches

(10 Years Factory Manager of T. W. Alderman & Co.)

Fancy Leather Goods Manufacturer
168 ST. JOHN STREET, CLERKENWELL, LONDON, E.C.

WHOLESALE and EXPORT ONLY

Illustrated Booklet sent on application.

Please mention paper.

ANDERSON & THOMSON

103 UNION STREET - - ABERDEEN

Cables : "Woollens Aberdeen"

WHOLESALE WOOLLEN MERCHANTS

SPECIALIZE IN

SCOTCH, ENGLISH and IRISH SUITINGS IN CHEVIOT, SAXONY and WORSTED,
HOMESPUNS, SERGES, COATINGS and LADIES' COSTUME CLOTHS

London Office : 59 Gresham Street, E. C. 2. Established 1773.

r-fc±±

j.,,iiiiuiiiiiiiiuLiiiLini:,-""-_

rp-r ; r t t n i i i i i i i i i i .■ i i ; : » i i i r i i i i t 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 n i i 1 1 i n i j n i it

Regisfered No 262 005

"■'■""luiniiiiiinnin

"FOUNTAIN BRAND"

Pure Irish Linen Threads

Manufactured by

ISLAND SPINNING CO.,

Lisb

urn

Ireland

for manufacturers of Clothing, Boots and Shoes,
etc.

The combination of strength, smoothness, dura-
bility and reasonable prices is found in "Fountain
Brand" Thread.

Qualities for every purpose kept in stock.
Ask for samples and prices.

Walter Williams & Co. Ltd.

MONTREAL TORONTO QUEBEC

508 Read Building 20 Wellington St. W. 533 St. Valier St.

VANCOUVER, 217 Crown Building

The Hall-Mark of

Maximum Comfort and
Durability at Minimum Cost.

FIRST IN THE FIELD AND STILL LEADING.

Manufactured on THE GRADUATED
PRINCIPLE, and Commencing with TWO
THREADS in the TOP. it increases in
WEAR-RESISTING PROPERTIES as it
descends.

Thus THE LEG HAS THREE THREADS.
THE INSTEP AND FOOT FOUR,
and the HEEL and TOE FIVE,
making it essentially

A HALF HOSE
FOR HARD WEAR.

ABSOLUTELY SEAMLESS
PERFECT IN FIT
GUARANTEED UNSHRINKABLE

To be had from any of the Leading Wholesale Dry Coods Houses.

^i ri iii i iii m iiiii i i iiTr i i i i t m i mi i iTrnFii ii nnt i m i mii iiT i '

DRY GOODS REVIEW

mmmmmt&e)mjmm%'«i)&ffl wmm

MATERIALS

THAT ARE WORTHY

OF THE FINEST AND

MOST EXCLUSIVE TAILORING

from one of
ENGLAND'S

best
representative
organisations .

EVER Y PROCESS FROM RA W WOOL TO THE
FINISHED MATERIALIS CARRIED OUT IN OUR
OWN MILLS

MATERIAL plays as large a
part in the production of a
"selling" suit as the "cut"—
— nothing so conduces to a
shabby appearance as second-
rate fabrics.

The TWEEDS produced by
Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., are
made under ideal conditions by
highly skilled labour. Every
care is employed in the selec-
tion of the right grade of wool
and scrupulous attention paid to
the weaving and finishing.

The dyes are fast to wash and to
sun, and the material as a whole
may be entirely relied upon to
give sterling service under the
most strenuous conditions.

OUR SPECIALITIES
FOR GENTLEMEN
INCLUDE

SUITINGS

TROUSERINGS
OVERCOATINGS
SPORTS TWEEDS
GAP CLOTHS.

FOB LADIES-
DRESS MATERIALS
MANTLE CLOTHS.

WHOLESALE & EXPORT ONLY.

JOSEPH HOYLE & SON L

ID.

WOOLLEN MANUFACTURERS FOR ALL MARKETS.

Prospect Mills, LONGWOOD, YORKSHIRE, Eng.

7 '< lephonc :
OS MILNSBRIDGE (2 lines>

•HOYLE, LONGWOOD YORKS.

A.I.. A. DC. DENTI.EY
ANT) MARCONI COPES.

London Office :
6-7 ADDLE STREET.
Telephone :
P. O. CENTRAL 377

DRY GOODS REVIEW

SPECIALISTS IN

MEN'S SILK

N E C K WE AR

The Oldest Tie House in Wood Street.

Exclusive West End Designs

All Ties specially cut and made up for each order, special
attention being given to customer's own ideas.

We are showing at the Clothing and Outfitting Exhibition
at the Agricultural Hall, March 28 — April 7th, and shall be
pleased to see you at our stand No. 239 at the corner of the
gallery. Look for the Black and White stand.

If you cannot visit the Exhibition our full range can always be
seen at

GILLETT & EWER

26 WOOD STREET -:- LONDON, E.C. 2, ENG.

Telephone, City 8336

DRY GOODS REVIEW

332

IMIMlMl^ MMIMllMlMl^l^

Rigg's Motto: Quality at a Consistent Price

SHEETS

and SHEETINGS

-the standard product of the British

Market— 99

Steadily maintain that irreproachable quality which
has rriade them famous and appreciated throughout
the world.

The reputation of the makers is a guarantee of the
worth of Rigg's Sheets.

Made only of specially selected pure cotton. Contain
no filling matter whatever.

RIGG'S SHEETS give most wear with the highest
degree of comfort. They neither shrink nor roughen.

Look for the name "Rigg's Sheets" on the selvedge. Accept no substitutes.

Canadian Agents:

From Vancouver to Winnipeg: E. W. Dean & Son, 82
Seymour Street, Vancouver, B.C.

East of Winnipeg: Mcintosh, Banfield & McClelland.
25 Toronto Street, Toronto.

Sole Manufacturers:

Rigg Brothers, Limited

Cotton Spinners and Manufacturers

since 1836.

6 Mo8ley St., Manchester, Eng.

Cables: Rigg Brothers, Manchester

wtwwwiarawwwagw^

44 DRY GOODS REVIEW

A B.C 5"<s6:"£"f WESTERN UNION (5 LETTER),
BENTLY, MARCONI INTERNATIONAL-

AMERICAN AGENTS

j£W.BASTARD(BOSTON)C c

184 SUMMER S T
BOSTON. U.S.A.

ft..

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS"YARNS" LEICESTER.. TELEPHONE 2470-1

ill

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Offering Well-Known Goods
Makes Selling Easier and Trade Steadier

KIRBY, BEARD & CO., Limited,

BIRMINGHAM
ENGLAND

Is an old name, one that is known and inspires confidence because every product is
made with a view to strengthen the reputation won through 200 years of dependable

manufacturing.

MR. WM. TOVEY,

a partner and traveller in the house of Kirby, Beard & Co., who died October, 1823.

Brass Pins, Steel Pins and Plated Pins, Hair Pins, Hairpin Boxes, Cabinets, Safety
Pins, Needles, Needle Cases and Work Boxes.

CANADIAN AGENTS AND REPRESENTATIVES:

Mclntyre Son & Co., Limited

Victoria Square - - Montreal

DRY GOODS REVIEW

®mmmmmn8mmm$mmm rmm

Coats for
Appearance and Service

Cut and made by experts our productions stand
for all that is best in style, quality and durability.
The man who demands the best should lose no
time in getting acquainted with us.

MAKERS OF J I GOOD CLOTHES

51, CONDUIT STREET.BOND STREET, W.
67- 69, CHANCERY LANE, LONDON, W.C.

CANADIAN AGENTS:
Toronto to St. Johns —

J. F. Snarr, 64 Wellington Street West,
Toronto.

Vancouver to Winnipeg —

E. W. Dean & Son, 325 Howe Street,
Vancouver.

.ftN

Y^k

[S PEEDWELL) ;

SUPER

INDIA

SHR UNK

TAPE

For Service & Satisfaction

Manufactured by

George H. Wheatcroft & Co.

Wirksworth, Eng.

TELEGRAMS:
WAKEFUL
GLASGOW

CODE:
A.B.C.
5TH EDITION

Like other goods of Eng-
lish manufacture, Super
India Shrunk Tape is
unequalled for strength
and durability. Also, it
does not shrink and will
not stretch.

All W'rlrVis snd pr'V"« in
other qualities of Speed-
well Tapes.

THE STAC.

Walter Williams & Co. Ltd.

Montreal Toronto Quebec

508 Read Bldg. 20 Wellington St. W. 533 St. Valier St.

Vancouver, 217 Crown Bldg.

WILSON & CO.

48 ALBION STREET

GLASGOW

Manufacturers

Ecru and Colored Madras Muslins,
Coin Spots and Figured Harness
Book Muslins Robe Muslins

Voiles

Anglo-Swiss and Broche Muslins,

"Wilsco" Lawns, "Zelette"

LACE CURTAINS

LACE NETS

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Calicoes, Flannels, Blankets
Linens and Towels
Scotch and Soft Furnishing
Curtains and Curtain Nets
Dress Goods
Printed Cottons
Flannelettes (Dyed and

Printed)
Mantles and Costumes

DEPARTMENTS—

Dress Skirts
Laces and Embroideries
Handkerchiefs and Neck-
wear
Ribbons

Silks and Velvets
Flowers and Feathers
Trimmed Millinery
Straws and Semi-Trimmed

Gloves

Hosiery and Woven Under-
wear

Furs and Umbrellas

Haberdashery

Buttons and Trimmings

Blouses

Sports Coats

Ladies' and Children's Out-
fitting

Every attention is given to all enquiries, and a cordial
welcome is extended to those buyers visiting the Old Country

Cable

Address :

PAWSON,

LONDON

PAWS0NS& LEAFS. L T ?

9, St. Pauls Churchyard, LONDON, E.C.4

Ttlejrjmi: "PAWSON, CENT, LONDON.'

'Prion.: 828 CITY (t ltn«3)

A.B.C.
4th and 5th

Edition
and W.U.T.
Codes used

mmmmwm.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

JOHN WATSON

EAGLE DOWN QUILT WORKS
C-on-M Manchester - England

Manufacturers of

REAL DOWN AND KAPOK
COMFORTERS

Embroidered and lace insertion

BED SPREADS, CUSHION

COVERS, AND CASEMENT

CURTAINS

Eagle Chamoisette Dusters and

Polishers

Sole proprietor of " LINWEAR"

(Reg.) a high class cotton cloth with

the wear and appearance of

LINEN

CANADIAN REPRESENTATIVES

Messrs. R. H. Ball & Co.

716 Empire Buildings
64 Wellington Street West
Toronto, Ontario

mmmmmm m

C. & J. ROBERTSON

87 McAlpine Street
GLASGOW

Cables:

"COUSIN,

GLASGOW

Code:
A. B.C.

5th & 6th Editions

Manufacturers of Lace Curtains and Piece
Goods, Casement Nets, Ecru and Coloured
Madras Muslins, Delhi Muslins, Fast Stitch
Lace Nets, Fast Colour Madras Muslins.

Represented by:

Central Canada :

Edgar Fenton, 718, Empire

Buildings 64, Wellington Street.

W.. Toronto.

Western Canada and New-
foundland :

James B. Jamieson, 108, Wel-
lington Street, W., Toronto.

W. G. EMMETT & CO.

BEESTON NOTTINGHAM

Manufacturers of

Lace Curtains
Fancy Nets

\ it rages

Brise Bise Blinds

Agents:

Messrs. J. Dudgeon & Company

809 Unity Building,

MONTREAL

TEXTILE SMALLWARES

JAMES CARR & SONS, LIMITED
CLARENCE MILLS

CLARENCE STREET. CHESTER ROAD

MANCHESTER

Manufacturers of all classes of Webs,
Cords and Bindings, in cotton, wor-
sted and linen; Curtain Webs, Edg-
ings, Layon Borders, Blind Cords,
Carpet Binding, Cotton Banding, etc.

Original Patentees of
CARR'S WOVEN LADDER TAPE.

WHOLESALE ONLY.

Agent for Canada:

Mr. D. F. Moore

Manchester Building, Melinda Street

TORONTO

MMMmm m®&m<,mmmmmm.

WILSON, KNOWLES & CO.

48 GEORGE STREET, MANCHESTER, ENG.

Also at :

GLASGOW

BELFAST

HOME TRADE
and SHIPPING
MERCHANTS

AGENT FOR CANADA

G. B. OLIVER

116 Mail Buildings, 106 Bay St.,

TORONTO

Cablegrams :-
BEAT MANCHESTER'

' ' *'' P

SPECIALITIES
Dress Linings, Satins, Plain & Printed. White & Grey Calicos & Sheetings.

Tent Ducks, Drills, Ripple Cloths.

Plain & Frilled Pillow Cases.

Woven Striped Ducks.

Tussores.

Dungarees.

Fancy Vestings.

Colonial Suitings.

Woven Satin Drills.

White and Dyed Crossovers.

Plain and Hemstitched Sheets.

White & Dyed Drills.

Flannelettes.

Casement Cloths.

Prints.

Zephyrs.

Galateas.

Ducks & Piques.

Ribbon Cloths.

Ginghams, etc.

Tailors' Linings

Dyed & Printed Twills, Jeanettes, Satins, Cambrics, Single & Double Warp

Pocketings.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Prepare fully for Spring Trade — by
visiting our warehouse at Montreal.

There are good reasons why it will pay you.

THE W. R. BROCK COMPANY

LIMITED

WHOLESALE DRY GOODS

MONTREAL

Dry Goods /wptbh?

Volume XXXIV.

TORONTO, CANADA, JANUARY, 1922

Number 1

Hard Work, Close Economy, Sound Judgment ;
These Three Lead Back to Normal Conditions

Credit Conditions During 1921 and Outlook for 1922— Not so

Many Failures as Anticipated — Reasons for Failures Due to Lack

of Proper Store Systems and Careless Stock-taking — Stocks

Should be Written Down During Inventory

Written especially for Dry Goods Review by A. S. Crighton, Secretary Canadian Credit Men's

Association, Limited, Toronto.

17*9^ those engaged in merchandis-
IH ing, the year just ended has been
A perhaps the most difficult ever ex-
perienced in the history of Canada and
that so few, comparatively speaking,
have failed to weather the storm is evi-
dence of the ability and sound business
judgment exercised by the great ma-
jority of our retail merchants.

During the prosperous years of the
War and subsequently until the middle
of 1920, money flowed freely. High
wages were paid for all classes of la-
bour and the public spent as freely as
they earned. Manufacturer, wholesaler
and retailer prospered. Gradually,
however, business began to slow up.
Shelves, emptied during the War, be-
came stocked to repletion with merchan-
dise bought at the peak. Buying at the
peak means selling at the peak and' in
spite of the general slowing up in busi-
ness, signs of unemployment and a
tightening of money, high prices were
still maintained.

Then came the buyers' strike. Out-
most exclusive citizens talked of wear-
ing overalls — not that they ever did,
but they talked about it. The public,
however, began to think they were be-
ing robbed. Of all successful strikes
the buyers' strike was probably the most
successful. Prices not only fell — they
tumbled, rolled and bumped each other
like a regular avalanche all the way
down the hill.

Has the bottom been reached? In
the opinion of the writer, speaking gen-
erally, it has. Some lines wi 1 go still
lower, others will stiffen again, but for
normal requirements the retailer is
safe in buying freely. Price fluctuations
are inevitable, but this is a condition
we have to face when business is norm-
al.

The Future Bright

What has the future in store? For
Canada — peace, prosperity and plenty.
Anyone who has travelled the length

THE ANNUAL

SPRING NUMBER

In placing the Annual Spring
Number of Dry Goods Review in
the hands of our readers we wish
to direct special attention to the
Neiv Goods Section which follows
the General Section of six pages.
This is an editorial section, not an
advertising section of the issue. It
is something that has never before
been attempted on such a scale in
any Canadian Trade Neivspaper,
and we have spared no effort to
make it as attractive and, at the
same time, as useful as it could
possibly be made. In illustrating
these new articles of merchandise,
collected from many Canadian
manufacturers, we are showing
many of the latest things to he-
found in the market, and we are
showing them in such a way that
credit will be done to the enter-
prize of the manufacturer and
some good selling points placed in
the hands of the Canadian retailer.

This is only a part of the feast
of this January issue. The very
latest information on style and
business development in the var-
ious departments covered by Dry
Goods Review has been gathered
and presented in. such a way that.
our readers may have a corrtvre-
hensive grasp of the whole situa-
tion as it has unfolded itself thus
far along the road to what we hope
may lead to a satisfactory Spring
business for the trade.

and breadth of our great Dominion and
has watched its development for t
past twenty years is a pessimist indeed
who cannot see prosperity in s'ght. Out-
natural resources are boundless and
their development is as yet only com-

mencing. With a return of confidence,
capital will loosen up and work will be
provided for all. This does not mean,
however, that the average merchant is
ever again going to enjoy such business
and profits as were his during the
fictitious prosperity of the War period
and it is altogether likely that for some
time to come quiet business is likely to
prevail. To meet this condition, it is
going to be necessary to get right down
to hard pan in the matter cf reduction
of everhead expense o the lowest pos-
sible minimum.

Causes of Failure

The granting- of indiscriminate credit-
by many retail merchants is the cause,
in some cases, of absolute failure and in
many cases, of a failure to reach that
measure of success which they would
otherwise attain. Under existing con-
ditions the wise merchant is he who ex-
ercises a firm hand in the collection of
his accounts and the greatest discrimin-
ation in the granting of credit to his
customers.

In the writer's experience as admin-
istrator of businesses in financial diffi-
culties, it has been found frequently
that these difficulties might have been
avoided had a proper (merchandising sys-
tem been in effect. In numerous instances
it has been found that stock is allowed to
accumulate until it becomes out-of-date
and almost unsalable and, in some cases,
it seems to have been the policy to push
to one side good salable merchandise in
order to make room for new incoming
stock. The writer has in mind two in-
stances in particular of serious financial
difficulties, resulting almost in bank-
ruptcy, brought about by no other cause.
In both these cases inventories, taken at
replacement value in the summer of
1921, showed more stock on hand than
the actual volume of sales for the year
1920.

(Continual on age 113)

GENERAL SECTION

Dry Goods Review

The Hudson Bay Company of Calgary

One of the Early Trading Posts of the West — Advertising Through
the "Movies"— How They Entertain the Children— Methods of
Introducing New Fashions — Treatment of the Staff and Hospi-
tality to Competitors— The Winter Golf Course

MERCHANDISING in the west,
as everyone knows who has read
Canadian history is so inextric-
ahly interwoven with that good old pion-
eer company The Hudson Bay, that its
activities are really part and parcel
with the story of the growth of the
frozen North from an unexplored waste
of land to what has become, a wonder-
ful land of enterprise, trade and manu-
facture

When one enters any one of the pala-
tial Hudson Bay stores from Winnipeg
on through all growing western cities
and realizes that this company began its
activities with a few trading posts
among the Indians, even the march of
years is hardly sufficient to justify its
enormous development.

And with it all the pioneer trading-
posts of the far north are still in exist-
ence, and sturdy little steamers that p.y
their way over the swift running cur-
rents of the northern rivers in the open
season, are still loaded with packs of
glistening- furs to be made into beau-
teous garments for the fair shoppers who
frequent the tempting shops.

"Movies" For Advertising

One had a chance to see these far
north trading posts, the rushing streams,
the glorious mountain and lake scen-
ery, the Indians on snow shoes, and pad-
dling their canoes, the Hudson Bay
steamer with a full load on, in a series
of films which the company has spec-
ially taken last year, and of a truth
it was an educaton to even a near-east-
ener. What the steamer means to the
isolated Indians as it draws in laden
with the things they need, flour, rice,
wearing apparel, is evident by the vio-
lent demonstrations of joy with which
they greet it, and of the eagerness — and
yet shrewdness— with which they barter
their precious pelts. A great deal of
diplomacy is still necessary on the part
of the far-north factors in dealing with
these brown bro hers. They are chil-
dren, and while a great deal has been
done for their instruction there is still
a virgin field, for the endeavors of the
factor and his great ally the missionary.

Th? Calgary Store

Taking the Hudson Bay store in Cal-
gary as one typical of its sister stores,
a few words about its development may
not be out of place at this anniversary
season. A glance at >he first little
store where from 1884 to 1891 The Bay
did its pioneer bus ; mss in Calgary takes
the Old Timer 'way back to the days
when the buffab and bear were not un-
known, and Indian visiters more fre-

The Hudson Bay store at Calgary, 1884—1891. This is a long way from
the magnificent six-storey building which they occupy at the present time,
but somehow it is an apt illustration of how the history of this company is
interwoven with the history of the development of Canada.

quent than welcome. Even in those
days the Bay had treasures to offer
though, for behold the exceeding fancy
baby buggy, the wonderful sulky cart,
the rocking horses and sleighs display-
ed. This surely must have been a
Christmas display to judge from the toy
window which brings one with a bound
to the Hudson Bay Christmas demon-
strations of to-day in Calgary.

Theatre for Chl'dren

This year was a particularly festive
occasion for the little people. Thousands
of them were entertained by Old Santa
himself in the spacious tea rooms at the
Bay, and not only that but there were
four special matinees put on at the Cap-
itol Theatre when the children were ad-
mitted by ticket — procured free pre-
viously by a grown-up member of the
family — and Santa made them happy
not only by a real speech, a little chat
with many of them and a gift of some
s >rt or o her, to say nothing of the
film thrown in for the benefit of the
youngsters. Yes, quite a change since
1881, though perhaps the little ones
were just as happy then with the sim-
pler delights. So widely were the Santy
Clans Hudson Bay Christmas parties
for the children in favor this season that

to the regret of the management they
had to ask that no more names be sent
in for invitations quite early in Decem-
ber. It was simply impossible — large
as the space is — to handle all the child-
ren, and the management made a point
of allowing no larger number to gather
at one time than could be properly
handled and seated — in real grown-up
fashion — at the "really" party, so some
of the little people are looking forward
to Old Santa's visit to the Bay next
Christmas, and they will be sure to get
in an application for an invitation bright
and early next time.

Introducing Fashions

Christmas festivities though of course
are only an iota of the planning demand-
ed by the management of a huge es-
tablishment such as the Calgary Hud-
son Bay store. Opening time for in-
stance is alays planned for months
ahead, and the fall fashion display of
the Bay for 1921 was one tha f will not
soon be forgotten by the shopping pub-
lic. This season the fashions were shown
from the stage of the Capitol theatre,
a special "gang-way" being built out
over the orchestra pit in order that the
mannikins might display all the beauty
(Contined on page 61)

Dry Goods Review

GENERAL SECTION

The Markets At a Glance

Keen Merchandisers Look For Possible Improvement the Last
Half of the Year With the First Half as Good as Year Ago — Start
Out on Better Basis — Advances Recorded in Some Lines — Ad-
vance Showings of Millinery, Ready To Wear and Accessories

Get Good Business

«« ^ ONSCIOUS OPTIMISM" is the expression that
I - one keen merchandiser used to Dry Goods
^-* Review in trying to get a long-distance view of
trade during 1922. The expression might mean a num-
ber of things, perhaps: but this man intended it to
mean that everyone, has a right to be an optimist in
Canada but that there are times when one should be
very conscious of one's optimism, to the point where
many things must be taken into consideration before
it can be labelled 1 "sane optimism." This man's op-
timism looks to us like sane optimism because he re-
gards the rising value of the pound sterling and the
Canadian dollar, the effort being made to establish
European credits, even ihe settlement of the Irish ques-
tion, as hopeful signs which must have their effect upon
the commercial situation. On the other hand, he is
not unmindful of the unemployment situation in this
country, of the low prices obtaining for farm produce,
of the number of small holders of Victory Bonds who
are throwing them on the market, indicating their de-
pleted pocket book->. And his conclusion is that, with
a good' crop assured and these hopeful signs pointing to
a betterment of world conditions, the last half of the
year will see a marked improvement in the trade.

Starts Out Well

Other than this, trade starts out with the beginning
of the year as well as it did a year ago with more
healthy conditions back of it. Stocks are cleaned up
and the same necessity for forced sales with little or no
profit does not obtain. It may be a year when les*
merchandise is actually sold, but with more profit at
the end of it. Some of the houses have had their
travellers out for a week since the turn of the year and
the indications are that the retailer will continue to
buy what he sees he has a market for, There will he
no speculating — that would be dangerous. But there
is one other danger hardly less destructive of a man's
business, that is, failing to have the actual requirements
of the trade. There is no occasion to lose sales ; mer-
chandise is to be had, and a starved stock may mean
a shattered business. Live merchandising men will be
into the market frequently, aiming at quick turnovers
and not too large margins of profit. These are the men
who will watch the curtain fall on 1922 with a degree
of satisfaction.

Woollen Dress Goods

Wholesale houses state that they have, up to this
time, booked more Spring business than they did a
year ago. They think that it will be a good piece goods
season and that tihe habit manv young women have
got into of making their own dresses will be a factor
in the year's trade to their benefit. Plain materials
have gone fairly well but the more pronounced demand
has been for novelties in checks and stripes and with
fairly bright colors. One specialty boos? i* finding
it hard to supply the demand for novelties of this kind
and they state that staple lines, up to now, are moving
very slo'wlv. Conditions in the market, generally, arc

becoming much more stable and there is a feeling that
if there are no more avalanches of distress merchan-
dise, prices may l>e considered to have reached a stable
basis. There will probably be fluctuations, though
not of a disastrous character.

Silks

The demand of hosiery manufacturers for raw >ilk
has been so great that it has made piece goods so high
that jobbers are staying out of the market except for
their barest necessities. For instance, a 12 m. pongee
that has sold in Toronto wholesale houses as low as 50
cents a yard is now $1.00 in Japan. The advance in
the last six months has been almost 100 per cent on
many lines of Japanese silks. On other lines there has
been an advance of about one-third within the la^t few
months, that is, on European silks.

Travellers that have been out since the first of the
year are booking some very good business and they all
say that silk stocks are low on the retail shelves. They
state, however, that buying is conservative, generally.
While reports from the West are to the effect that little
buying is being done in the three prairie provinces gome
good orders have been received in silks.

Linoleums, Oilcloths, Draperies

►Since the first of the year there have been some
downward revisions in table oils and in importd lines
of linoleums and inlaids. The 0-4 table oil that was
formerly $6.32 is now $5.52 and all other widths show
the same proportionate decrease in price. _ The drop in
the prices of imported linoleums and inlaids is 20,
221/2 and: 25 per cent, audi it is the first drop that has
taken place since the peak days immediately after the
war. These drops have been long in coming but they
represent a substantial reduction.

Many of the drapery houses have been getting some
nice orders from large hotels that are refurnishing from
cellar to garret in carpets, curtains, draperies, etc. Some
new styles in curtain draping is also responsible for
some good sales in curtain materials. Prospective mar-
riages and building programs are always of interest to
the carpet and furnishing men and there is a feeling
amongst them that this year will be a better one than
last becatise building will be cheaper than it was during
1920.

Some wholesalers have been disappointed in deliv-
eries of English lines of cretonnes and flowered sateens.
Merchandise that was to have been delivered by the
first of December has not even been heard of by the
middle of January and there is no word of explanation
regarding them.

Millinery

Toronto houses are delayed in getting their travellers
on the road with Spring millinery and only a few of
them — special men — have sone out at this time of
writing. Some very good orders have come in from the
West. Wholesale bouse-; state that the trade are
(Continued on Page 113).

GENERAL SECTION

Dry Goods Review

3&vv #oobsi &ebteto

ESTABLISHED 1887

Issued the 15th of each month

Published by

THE MACLEAN PUBLISHING CO., LTD.

143-153 University Avenue Toronto, Canada

Branch Offices:

MONTREAL— 128 Bleury St.

WINNIPEG— 901 Confederation Life Building.

VANCOUVER— 314 Carter-Cotton Building.

LONDON, England— 88 Fleet St., E.C.

NEW YORK— 1606 St. James Bldg., 1133 Broadway.

CHICAGO— 405-6 Transportation Bldg.; 608 Dearborn St.

BOSTON— 734 Old South Building.

Subscription Rates:

In Canada, per year $2 . 00

Outside Canada, per year $4 . 00

Single Copies, 25 cents.

Vol. XXXIV.

TORONTO, JAN. 1922.

No. 1

A CLEAN SHEET

Nineteen hundred and twenty-two, for the great bulk
of the trade, starts out with a clean sheet. ' Nineteen
hundred and twenty-one will go down in history as the
clean-up year. January, a year ago, was fraught with
many apprehensions. Stocks were heavy, much of
them high-priced, and there was a noticeable indispos-
ition on the part, of the general public to buy. Goods
moved slowly from the -helves of the retailer to the
consumer. The man who had a long distance view of
the situation knew that prices had to come down a good
deal and that meant heavy losses all along the line ' To
stimulate consumer buying on a falling market has
been the constant problem confronting the dealer dur-
ing the past year. Those who took their losses during
the first months of the dlecline in prices — and these were
the heaviest losses — were in good shape to take advan-
tage of distress merchandise and turn it over at a slight
profit to themselves. Such merchants have come
through the year successfully, lakinn heavy losses of
course, hut making a sufficient profit to. in some cases.
more than off-set them.

The in-coming year begins under favorable auspices.
Stocks are clean. Trade will sharply reflect consumer
demand, for the retailer is still committed to the policy
of buying from hand to mouth. It k therefore, advis-
able that the retailer stndv his held carefully, that he
work it systematically, thai lie seek out new merchan-
dising plans that will attract new friends to his store,
as well as retaining the old ones. It will he a merchan-
dising year in a nvw sense. The old stocks have gone.
But if ''school is to keep." profit must be made and this
must be made on the turnover of new merchandise. Tt
should he a lively year. In one of his la-test reports
Raibson said the next \'rw years would gee merchandis-
ing plans in operation thai were never before even
thought of as being possible. Nineteen hundred and
twenty-two may sec the first of them.

Competition and Fixtures

A certain Canadian fixture manufacturer known to
us has just closed the most successful year in his history.
His business in comparison with 1020 shows an in-
crease of thousands of dollars. At first glance it might
seem that Canadian merchants, during a business de-
pression, would be unlikely to spend much money in
fixtures. That is not the case, so it develops, and it is
worth while glancing for a moment at the reason for
it not being the case.

This manufacturer believes that the reason for his
increase in business is to be found in the relationship
between competition and fixtures. In other word?,
keen competition has forced merchants to adopt every
conceivable method of legitimate merchandising. First
impressions are gained through the eye. and they are
very lasting. It is safe assumption that the most at-
tractive store in any locality has a distinct advantage
over its competitors. Many merchants are coming into
a deeper realization of this fact and axe making their
stores more attractive. It is part of the expanding
idea of better service to the consumer, for up-to-date
fixtures not only mean better service but a much more
attractive store.

Many of the people who drift to the larger cities to
do their buying are attracted by the up-to-dateness of
city stores, by their very attractiveness to the eye.
This asset to successful merchandising can be brought
rigid to the door of every consumer. It would- seem
that the year just (dosed made many old fashioned
-tore- into up-to-date ones. It was money well spent.

Economy of Operation

The National Bank of Commerce of New York in
its forecast of business conditions of the year 1922 says
that "profits will depend more on economy of operation
than on expansion of volume." Their statement goes
on to advise that with the many favorable factor- now
operating, business men should not fear to make plans
for the new year, but they should plan with care and
conservatism and with constant effort toward reduction

of costs."

That is good advice. At the same time, the mean-
ing of economy should be well understood. Cutting
out advertising, slashing salaries and the like are cer-
tainly means of saving money — but they may not 1»-
economy. They may mean suicide in a business way.
li seems to us that the safest way to economize on oper-
ation is to decrease the percentage of operating costs by
increasing the volume of business. Thai, at least,
should be an ideal to keep ever before the mind during
1922. We do not urge that the knife should not he
applied to operating costs. But it should not le used
to the point of rendering less efficient every arm of the
store service. The year 1922 will certainly not be a
year when less efficient methods will stand the merch-
ant in good stead. Competition will be extremely keen
both locally and from mail order houses. A perfect
organization will be a greater factor in successful
merchandising during L922 than it has been for some
years. To cut down operating costs to a point bevond
which the best possible service can be rendered wool I
not be economy.

Dry Goods Review

GENERAL SECTION

THE HUDSON BAY CO.

(Continued from page 58)

of their costumes to full advantage.
With the colored lights playing over
the beautiful tints of ihe gowns and
wraps, the graceful figures of some of
the best suited Bay employees to the
occasion, the soft music, even the most
hard-hear. ed husband wished it were in
his power to make his wife happy with
some of the delightful women's wear
shown. Good advertisers? Indeed yes,
the Hudson Bay Co. are that every time.
With the six marvellous floors of the
store towering one above the other, with
everything from notions to the most
beautiful of house furnishings occupying
its proper place, with the Elizabethan
dining room — a triumph of artistic ar-
rangements — in constant demand for all
kinds of entertainments as well as the
regular luncheon patrons, with the enor-
mous auto delivery, with the open air
playgrounds and roof garden above the
sixth floor, with the splendidly arranged
rest rooms, and beautiful display par-
lors, this store is most certainly an as-
set to a growing city and what is true
of the Calgary s L ore holds good with
little variation through the entire chain,
the new Vic oria, B. C. establishment
being the latest to open.

Co-ope ation With Employees

And one of the features which claim
the respect of the general public to-
wards this company is he markedly
humanitarian manner in which they
treat their employees. Co-operation
marks the workings of the store, each
department manager being keenly in-
terested in the employees under his par-
ticular superision, and every arrange-
ment possib'e being made to give the
men and girls a chance to attain their
best in working- for the company. The
Calgary Athletic H. B. association is
one of the -mest remarkably successful
that has been inaugurated; fullv 90 f ;v
of the staff took out active membership
in this club, and the Company saw to
it that a club house was erected, a golf
course marked out, tennis, basket ball,
and all the other out door sports provid-
ed for. The Club House is within easy
distance of the citv by street car, but far
enough out to make the girls and men
forget they ever saw the inside of a
store. It is beautifully situated on the
Elbow River with the rolling foothills
within sight, and many happy weekly
Wednesday half-holidays did the club
members spend there to say nothing of
the long summer evenings. The club,
too, got on to a self-supporting basis
after the Comoany had set it going,
showing- that the staff really armreciat-
ed it and were making it their own.
In the winter there are skating parties,
driving parties and what not, and the
club house with its gramaphones, and
ever hot coffee a Mecca to the holiday
makers.

Welfare Association

Not content with a "For-Fun" or-
ganization though, a week before Christ-

mas of 1921 the first annual banquet
of the Hudson Bay Welfare association
took place, and as one was privileged
to look around among the 500 bright
faces of this "store family," to listen to
the splendid Christmas message given
by the newly installed manager, Fletch-
er Sparling, one could not but think that
these boys and girls and men and
women were being given every chance
to make good in whatever department
they had chosen to cast their activi-
ties. The Welfare association is one
with a big "W,' - and means not
only co-operation among the employees in
he. ping one another, but also means co-
operation on the part of the company
should misforutne or illness take a hard
toll from one of their number. Just as
a mark that there was nothing in the
world small about the new Welfare lea-
gue, Mr. Sparling had asked to be pres-
ent three former managers of the store,
one of whom was P. J. Parker of Park-
er's Limited, the big store just across
the way from the Bay, opened by Mr.
Parker after he left the Bay, and its
strongest present opposition in the city.
Mr. Parker was given a real ovation
from his old friends, and must have left
ihe entertainment feeling that this
good-will business was more than on the
surface when it was extended to him — a
first rate rival — so heartily.

Yes, the Hudson Bay stores mean
much; to the west. The puiblic does
not forget the rough and tough pioneer-
ing days, and many of the employees
ran trace back fathers and grandfathers
in the sei'vice of the company. Court-
eous attention, quick refunds, certain
exchange of goods if requested always
marks the dealing of the Bay, and as
an influence for the bettering of the
merchandizing community, these stores
can be relied upon to jet a high
standard for their less extensive com-
petitors. The personnel of the manage-
ment has always meant much to the
business life of Calgary. In Board of
Trade matters, in Public Welfare, and
organized charity, the men at the head
of the Bav affairs have ever been ready
to lend a good right hand.
H. B. Golf Course

The latest thing in Calgary to-dav in
he line of sport is the Hudson Bay
Indoor Golf course. This has been ar-
ranged in a corner of one of the spacious
floors wh°re there is lots of sunlight
with an object of giving relaxation to
golf attaches who aie derived of their
favorite pastime in f he winter months.
The course is canvass enclosed, there be-
ing room for three "courses" and a
green. Demarkation lines are painted
on the forward canvass to give the dis-
tance and accuracy, thus making it pos-
sible for the plavers 'o have as close a
game as though in the open. Putting',
driving and mashie work either a'one or
in tweso res or foursomes is the order of
the day, with an instructor in attendance
for "hose who need him. The fee is
moderate, and many of the business men
have taken advantage of this unique in-
ovation.

Convention to
be a Big Affair

Amalgamated Convention And Textile

Show Promises Big Influx Of

Business Men

PREPARATIONS are well advanced
for the Amalgamated Convention
of Ontario retailers to be held in
Toronto during week of February 13-
17 in conjunction with the Textile Pro-
ducts Exhibition. The different branch-
es of the retail trade — Dry Goods,
Merchants, Clothiers and Furnishers,
Furriers and Hatters, Merchant Tailors
— are organizing their conventions, ar-
ranging for speakers and for the dis-
cussion of topics of practical and cur-
rent interest to the men of the trade.
The dry goods convention will be held
on Monday, February 13th; Clothing
and Furnishing men will hold their con-
vention on Tuesday and) Wednesday,
February 14th and 15th; while the Mer-
chant Tailors will meet on Thursday,
February 16th. Furriers and Hatters
hold their convention on Friday.

Object of Exhibition

The purpose of the forthcoming ex-
hibition primarily is to demonstrate and
emphasize the quality and attractive-
ness of Made-in-Canada textile products
to the retailer so that he, in turn, may
be ini a stronger position to emphasize
to the customer the national character
of the textile trades.

Eighty-one booths on the mezzanine
floor of the King- Edward Hotel have
been arranged for this exhibit and at
this time of going to press more than
fifty per cent, of them have been en-
gaged by, Canadian manufacturers from
many centres of the Dominion. Within
twenty-four hours of the launching of
the plan, the Hawthorne Mills, Ltd. of
Carleton Place had engaged their booth
and in quick succession the Forsyth
Shirt Co., Ltd. of Kitchener and the
Deacon Shirt Co., Ltd. of Belleville had
followed suit. Not only fabrics but
garments as well will be shown, of all
kinds in which fabrics are shown. There
will also be ranges of overalls, oiled
garments, raincoats, silk goods, hats
and caps, fabric gloves, neckware, sus-
penders, cottons and woolens. Although
it will touch but lightly upon the wide
field of women's wear, caterers to the
costuming requirements of the sex are
far from being disinterested in its suc-
cess. There are reasons on this occasion
for the general restriction of displays
to men's wear although cloths and other
women's suit materials will naturally
figure . in the showings of representa-
tive woolen manufacturers, knitting
mills and smalware producers.

Entertainment

Not the least pleasant feature of the
Amalgamated convention will be the
(Continued on page 63)

GENERAL SECTION

Dry Goods Review

Retiring R. M.A. President is Honored

B. W. Ziemann, President of the Ontario Branch of the Retail
Merchants' Association, is Recipient of a Presentation on His Re-
tirement at the Closing Session of the Annual Convention —

The New Officers

TORONTO, Jan. 13.— Following the
visit of the deputation of the exec-
utive of the Ontario Retail Mer-
chants 1 ' Association to the office of the
Hon. H. C. Nixon, provincial secretary,
at the parliament buildings on Wednes-
day morning, the convention of the
association was called together in the
auditorium of the Prince George Hotel.
President B. W. Ziemann was in the
chair. Reference was made in last week's
issue to the hearing before the Provin-
cial Secretary and the various questions
there brought up, were dealt with.

One of the Best Years

Opening the first regu'ar session on
Wednesday afternoon, Mr. Ziemann stat-
ed that 1921 had been one of the best
years in the organization despite the
fact that it had been a hard year for
many retailers. He referred to the news-
paper statements alleging that the re-
tailers were responsible for holding up
prices, stating that the buyers' strike did
not bring down prices, but on the other
hand brought about a disorganization of
business, and that as a result retailers
could not sell goods and so could not
give business to wholesalers. In turn the
manufacturer was forced to curtail with
the resu't that unemployment resulted in
a large measure.

"No one body can act alone in the
commercial world," said Mr. Ziemann,
"and what affects one affects every
branch, and the worker, who is the ulti-

ONTARIO R.M.A. OFFICERS
FOR 1922

The following officers were
elected by the Ontario R.M.A. for
the ensuing year: president, W. J.
McCully, Stratford; first vice-
president, Wilfred Hodgins, Lon-
don; second vice-president, T. A.
Sharp, Midland; third vice-presi-
dent, R. A. Stephens, Ottawa;
treasurer, D. W. Clark; secretary,
W. C. Miller. Officers to the Do-
minion executive council, Henry
Watters and R. A. Stephens, Ot-
tawa; representatives on the Na-
tional Exhibition Board, D. W.
Clark and T. Bartram, Toronto;
and auditor, W. S. Ball, Toronto.

B. W. ZIEMANN

Of Preston, who has retired from the
presidency of the Ontario R. M. A.

mate consumer, is going to feel it just
the same as the retailer, wholesaler and
manufacturer. The people by this time
have come to the conclusion that the re-
tailer is not responsible for high prices
and the retai'er cannot break away by
himself from the situation. I venture to
say that there is not a retailer who is
not taking his loss day after day and not
saying* anything about it. We have had
high priced goods on our shelves and the
only way to take advantage of lower
prices has been to clear out the old goods
at any price and stock up on the new.
This process has been general through-
out the country and retailers are not in
league to keep up prices. There are so
many retailers, and all anxious to do
business, that this competition regu-
lates prices to a 'arge extent. I believe
we have reached the turning point in the
road. I believe from now on we will find
the people throughout the country are
gaining confidence. We find that factor-
ies are beginning to operate more steadi-
ly than in the past year."

Increased Membership

Secretary Miller's report showed a
total of 3.D95 members, a net increase of
685 for the past year. He briefly review-
ed legislative matters taken up during
the year including the eight hour day,
transient traders, motor vehicles, amend-
ments to minimum wage law, female
help, damage to stores from riots, trade
section meetings, auto dealers' delega-
tion to Ottawa concerning the tax on
automobiles, etc. In regard to this latter
matter he stated that the manufacturers
had agreed to absorb 50% of the tax
which was demanded by the Government
from dealers on cars in stock at time of
application, but the adjustment had not
been satisfactory and a full refund of
the amount was asked. Concerning the
minimum wage regulations Mr. Miller

pointed out that in most cases the wages
paid by retailers are higher than the
minimum wage suggested.

His report showed that five new trade
sections had been organized in Toronto
in the year. Assessment matters were
also being taken up and it was stated
that in future more care would be ex-
ercised in assessing retai'ers' properties.
The help which the association had been
to merchants in connection with the In-
come Tax was also dealt with, it being
pointed out that whereas some mer-
chants had been penalized $50 for laxity
in making returns, representations had
been made and this fine reduced to $10 in
most cases.

The report of the Treasurer, D. C.
Clark, showed a very substantial balance
on hand.

Henry Watters, Dominion treasurer,
speaking for E. M. Trowern, Dominion
secretary, pointed out that it was the
plan to appoint provincial advisory com-
mittees to bring pressure on the Domin-
ion Government in connection with
national problems. He stated that an
assistant secretary had been appointed
on the Dominion Board for the purpose
of keeping in close touch with various
Government departments.

Govt. Should Pay Inspection Fees

Referring to the fees charged for the
inspection of weights and measures, he

(Continued on page 93)

W. J. McCULLY
Of Strut ford, Ont., who is the new presi-
dent of the Ontario Retail Merchants'
Association.

Dry Goods Review

GENERAL SECTION

December Business was Satisfactory

Dry Goods Merchants, For The Most Part, Did Same Volume of
Business With Slightly Decreased Cash Returns — Some Cases
Better Than A Year Ago— Stocks Are Well Cleaned Up— The
Coming Year to be Careful One With Chances Favoring Better-
ment If Crops Good

THAT is, in brief, the verdict of
dry goods merchants throughout the
country on Christmas trade. To many,
it was better than they had expected in
comparison with what they had done in
1920. During the year there had been
more unemployment, there was evident
a greater disposition on the part of
people who had money to conserve it
and prices have fallen during the twelve
months of 1921 to a much greater ex-
tent than in the corresponding months
of 1920. The value of merchandise had
dropped about thirty-three per cent on
the average; it was necessary, therefore,
to increase the sales by iabout that much
to come out with a balance sheet that
showed the same cash returns as in De-
cember of 1920. There would not have
been very bitter complaints if the Christ-
mas business had shown a considerable
falling off.

Volume About the Same

By means of a questionnaire and by
personal contact with merchants in a
number of the leading centres of this
province, Dry Goods Review has gath-
ered information which shows that the
volume of mercandise sold during the
month of December was equal to that
sold during the same month of 1920.
In a few cases, it was even greater.
More customers were waited on, except
in a few isolated centres where local
■conditions — such as Niagara Falls, for
instance — had greatly decreased the
purchasing power of the consumer, if
not actually decreased the number of
■consumers. Some reports were to the
vffect that customers sought smaller ar-
ticles of merchandise than they did a
year ago and the heavier, lines suf-
fered thereby, though there are one or
two centres where grim winter is a
force to be reckoned with, where furs
sold better than a year ago, presumably
because the prices were down.

Some Cases Better

There are a few cases where business
in both volume of merchanise and cash
receipts were better than a year ago.
One large department store in Hamil-
ton known to us increased its sales over
75 per cent during the last week before
Christmas in comparison with the same
week a year ago. Another store re-
ports their volume of merchandise
greater but their cash returns 16 per
cent. less. These stores did some very
active advertising during the month and
pulled hard for business. Still another
store in reporting an increase of 19 ^
per cent, in volume and 8% per cent, in-

crease in cash receipts stated that they
spent less on newspaper advertising but
devoted more attention to better win-
dow and interior dislay. A large store
in eastern Ontario reports the volume
of business greater but the cash returns
exactly the same as a year ago; while
another one states that their cash re-
turns were within five dollars of those
of December 1920. A leading firm in
Northern Ontario stated that their vol-
ume of business was about the same as
a year ago and that the demand was
more for necessities than a year ago,
while their cash returns were about
three-quarters of what they were in
1920.

Some Feel the Pinch

Some of the stores throughout the
country have felt the pinch of the year
and report the volume of sales as less,
as well as the cash returns. One mer-
chant reports the volume 90 per cent, of
that of a year ago and the cash receipts
75 per cent, of those of December 1920.
Still another says volume was 80 per
cent, and cash receipts 60 per cent, of
a year ago. A merchant from northern
Ontario says he served 25 per cent, few-
er customers and his cash returns were
50 per cent, below those of a year ago.
A number of other reports are to the
effect that the volume of business was
about the same with the cash returns
lower by from 5 to 25 per cent.

Stocks are Clean

There is almost a unanimity of opinion
from all parts of the country as to the
condition of the stocks in the retail
stores. They have been well cleaned up
and merchants state that their
stocks are in the best shape they
have been in for some time — some say
for years. In the departments handling
the smaller articles on which there is al-
ways a big Christmas rush, and this
Christmas a particular one, stocks are
in many cases, nearly wiped out. Al-
ready merchants have had to go into the
markets to replenish their depleted
stocks. The heavier departments did not
fare so well, but with the sales that
have been run and the extra efforts put
forth to dispose of surplus stocks, they
are pretty well cleaned up.

These reports confirm articles that
have appeared in Dry Goods Review be-
fore to the effect that the merchants be-
gan the year 1922 with their stocks in
good condition. This view has been sub-
stantiated by the Financial Post which
sent a questionnaire to over 400 bank

managers throughout the country and
received answers to the effect that many
merchants' stocks were actually below
their requirements.

A Careful Year Ahead

In conversation with many merchants
with regard to the year upon which we
have just entered, the opinion is gather-
ed that care will be exercised through-
out; it will be a "Watch your step" year
in which the consumer demand will be
carefully noted and reflected in the buy-
ing policy of many keen merchandising
men. One merchandising manager stat-
ed to Dry Goods Review that before any-
buying was done, the fullest and complet-
est knowledge would be at his disposal
with regard to stock on hand in quan-
tities, sizes and styles, so that no over-
buying would result. On the other hand,
he does not expect to lose sales because
of fear of buying. Requirements will be
placed without fear, knowing that the
store with the depleted stock has little
chance of retaining its customers. Deal-
ers are optimistic, though not foolishly
so. They look for the gradual return of
normal times. When the extent and
value of the next western crop is known
and if it is favorable they expect better
times to set in. Where local conditions
are such that employment will be p.enti-
ful on account of public works or build-
ing of private homes, merchants feel that
they will do good business. On the
whole, as good a year as 1921 is look-
ed for with the chances largely in favor
cf a better one.

CONVENTION TO BE A BIG AFFAIR

(Continued from page 61)

entertainment for the visiting delegates.
It is hoped that between 1,500 and
2,000 business men from all sections of
the Province will be in attendance dur-
ing a part or a whole of the week.
Arrangements are being made for their
entertainment in such a way that it
cannot he said that time hangs dully
on their hands when the arduous
duties of the day are over. Banquets
and theatre parties will be the order
of the day.

John Christie, advertising and sales
manager for the firm of Hodgson, Sum-
ner, Montreal, has 1 left on an extended
trip through the western states for the
purpose of studying conditions there
and visiting the leading firms of Chicago.

MEN'S WEAR SECTION

Dry Goods Reel, u

Open Golf School in Their Store

New Departure by Blumenthal Sons of Montreal by Which They
Expect to Draw Trade From Enthusiastic Golfers — Initial Outlay
of the Firm Very Small — The Plan Described — Getting Women's
* Trade as Well.

ANEW and profitable departure in
store features has recently been
inaugurated by the Montreal firm
of Blumenthal Sons, Limited, which
promises to become one of the most suc-
cessful they have yet tried. The idea in
question is the installation of a large
and very complete golf school in the la e-
ment of the store, which occupies an
area of more than 6000 square feet of
floor space, and which is unique in that
it is the only golf school conducted in a
retail clothing establishment.

Explaining the idea to a staff member
of Men's Wear Review, a member of the
firm spoke of the intens ; enthusiasm
which is manifested by beginners at the
game and the real need that exists for
a good indoor course on which they may
keep in practice throughout the winter
months. It has long been a custom in
leading departmental stores to feature
such indoor courses, and in New York
every representative store such as Wana-
maker's, McCreery's and Gimbels and
also, the sporting goods stores and lead-
ing hotels feature miniature links on
which beginners and more advanced
players may keep in trim for the real
season. Montreal stores have featured
these indoor courses with such mccess
that the idea has come to be looked upon
as a logical department wherever space
is available. Wherever the game of golf
is played there is an opportunity to open
an indoor golf school and the value of
this school as a drawing card to the
clothier is not to be overlooked in any
locality, no matter how small.

In each of the indoor golf schools
conducted by Montreal stores, the state-
ment was made that the demand for ex-
pert instruction is becoming increasingly
popular and the engagement books of
the professionals under whose supervi-
sion the courses are operated, show not
a single idle moment from early morning
to closing time.

Value To Retailer

The particular valu° to th« clothier
in one of these indoor courses lies in the
fact that they cost little to construct,
they do not necessarilv require a large
area of floor space, they bring people
into the store who may have never
entered it before and they stim^.ate the
sale of sports clothes and furnishings.
In the case of the Smart Set Golf Course
erected in the Blumenthal store, so nam-
ed by the way, in honour of the range
of clothing featured &? the store's lead-
ing line, there are three compartments
fcr practising driving, nearly a dozen
putting greens, as well as bunkers and
other aids to pleasurable exercise. In
addition a workshon is maintained
wherein all types of clubs are made and

Some months ago, Men's Wear
Review urged Canadian retailers
to get after the golfers' business.
The game of golf is becoming ever
and ever more popular and cater-
ing to the needs of the well-dress-
ed golfer is opening up a new av-
enue of profits for a number of
the most aggressive men's wear
dealers throughout the country.
The accompanying article dealing
with a new idea just put into op-
eration in the Blumenthal store in
Montreal is one that might well
command the earnest attention of
many retailers who are ynerelian-
dising in a centre that is becoming
more and more popular as a golf
centre.

fitted to the heads by an expert m this
work, and these are also for sale.
Points To Remember in Layout
The main essential to success, plenty
of light, has been provided for in the
Blumenthal store course and innumer-
able overhead globes shed direct light
on each section of the floor. The ser-
vices of professional are, of course, also
essential and two are thus employed
on the Smart Set Course, both of whom
are well known to Montrealers at large
on account of their association with two
cf the most fashionable golf courses in
Quebec. The arrangement made with
the professionals is usually on the basis
that the store furnishes the space and
equipment which in the case of the Blu-
menthal course cost about $100 only,
and the instructors make a charge of $15
for lessons. There is a membership fee of
$5 for the season as well. These fees
pay the instructors while the advertis-
ing and the nrestige resulting from the
presence of the school in the store pays
the latter equally. New goods peculiarly
suitable for sports purposes are promin-
ently displayed on the course and special
displays of other goods are arranged
along the corridor leading to the course
which likewise exercise not a little at-
traction uoon the players. That the idea
of the indoor coui'se is very profitable
is made clear by th? fact' that all estab-
lishments in which it is conducted find
it worth while to feature the indoor
course year after year with ever increas-
ing popularity.

How The Course Is Planned

Although the Blumenthal course is
located in their spacious basement, the
usual plan in force in most stores is to
use an upper floor, or the roof, or any-
where that good lighting is available.
The apparatus consists mainly of a
framework of wood about 18 x 20 and

this is enclosed by wire netting or heavy
canvas, a bull's-eye is put up at the far
end of each practice course, and the be-
ginner drives off from a mat at the
opposite end. The balls strike the bull's-
eye and after dropping to the floor roll
back to the player by means of a slightly
inclined floor designed for this purpose.
Here is undoubtedly a cue for the re-
tailer who carries any type of sports
wear. If there is a golf club in the vicin-
ity of his town, there is a valuable oppor-
tunity for him to open a practice course
this winter at little cost for equipment
and with only a moderate demand for
space. By this means he can stimulate
the sale of golf suits, sweaters and
hosiery as well as the street clothing
or formal clothes that many men seem
to prefer in Canada for general wear.
The presence of such a golf course in the
town invests it with a decidedly metro-
politan atmosphere and gradually, the
name of the store observed on such
things as smart neckwear, shirts or top
coats, will come to be associated with
that subtle something vaguely associat-
ed with correctness in people's minds.
Blumenthal Sons are planning to arrange
special displays of new goods all round
the course to serve both as a decorative
feature as well as a means of promot-
ing the sale of sports goods. The major-
ity of golfers, it is stated, are constant-
ly complaining of the dearth of suitable
supplies in regular stores. The small
town retailer therefore has an excellent
opportunity provided he can obtain the
requisite space to win to his store all
the golf enthusiasts in his community.

Getting Women's Trade in Addition

The main object is to have the en-
trance through the store and to play
up the character of the store itself along
with the sport. There is no reason why
women should not become as numerous
as men players, especially as they have
more time to devote to the game, and a
ladies' dressing room will prove an ap-
preciated asset if possible. The women
who natronize the indoor golf school
will in all probability do as much pur-
chasing as they Dossibly can in the store,
in order to save time. If the store carries
chauffeurs' supplies an invaluable oppor-
tunity presents itself to display uniforms
and accessories in a prominent corner
of the golf course.

The Union Clothing store is the name
of a new business recently opened ;it
267 St. Paul street, St. Catharines.

R. H. & J. Dowler conducted a "Pros-
perity Drive" sale in their four stores
during the latter part of November.

Dry Goods Review

MEN'S WEAR SECTION

Novel Contest of Regina Trading Co.

Gave Away Over 100 Tons of Coal Free — Managing Director
Says It Resulted In Large Increase of Sales At Nominal Cost —
Three Tons Given Away Each Day — Store Decorations In Har-
mony — Rules of the Competition and Reasons For Holding it.

RULES OF THE COMPETITION

1. Each voucher will ba dat'id,
and must be presented to the Frea
Coal Office on, or before, that
date. Vouchers must not be accum-
ulated.

2. Each voucher when presented
will be stamped with the time it
was received. FIRST three vouch-
ers presented giving nearest cor-
rect estimates will win.

3. A voucher is given with each
full dollar you spend. Use transfer
cards to get advantage of the odd
amounts of your purchases.

4. Employees of The Regina
Trading Company are debarred
from the competition.

5. Should you not require coal
you will be given instead a paid-
up transfer shopping card to the
value of the coal, $13.50.

6. The vouchers you receive on
Saturday, the first day, must be
turned in to the Free Coal Office
not later than Monday at 6 o'clock.
The vouchers you receive on Mon-
day must be turned in by Tuesday
at 6 o'clock, and so on, during the
competition.

7. You will estimate on Satur-
day's voucher the number of words
that will appear in Wednesday
morning's advertisement. On Mon-
day's vouchers you will estimate
the number of words appearing in
our Thursday advertisement, and
so on.

8. Each figure in the advertise-
ments is to be count?d as a word
(dollar and cent figures, as well
as punctuation marks, such as
dashes, rules, etc., are not count-
ed).

9. Write your name and address
plainly on each voucher.

10. The correct estimate and the
winners of each day will be pub-
lished in The Evening Post. The
announcement of the first winners
will appear in Wednesday's Even-
ing Post.

11. The words of the advertise-
ments will be counted by the Ad-
vertising Department of The Lead-
er Publishing Company, and re-
checked by The Regina Trading-
Company.

12. No one person will be allow-
ed to receive more than 5 tons of
coal during the entire competition.

13. The coal supplied is being
purchased from Whitmore Bros. —
Gait Lump Coal, valued at $13.50
a ton.

14. Remember it costs you ab-
solutely nothing to estimate in
this competition

A MERCHANDISING plan that
flourishes on the spirit of compe-
tition in contests has been tried
out very successfully by the Regina
Trading Co. Ltd., of Regina, Saskat-
chewan. It was associated with some-
thing that is a very great necessity in
the western part of Canada — coal. Three
tons of this precious substance were
given away each day to three people
who came nearest to guessing the exact
number of words appearing in their
daily advertisements. We need not go
into a more elaborate explanation of the
plan than is given elsewhere on this
page in which the whole plan is outlin-
ed and the rules of the competition giv-
en in full. One or two things might b
pointed out, however. The fact that
each customer had to spend a dollar be-
fore receiving a permit to vote would
have the tendency, no doubt, to turn
such purchases to the Regina Trading
Co. when there was an off-chance th^
a free ton of coal would be forthcoming
if the lucky guess were made. In the
second place, it directed the attention
of the reader to the advertisements ap-
pearing daily over the name of the Re-
gina Trading Co. That, of itself, was
a good idea and would, doubtless, bring
custom to the store aside altogether
from the possibility of being a good
guesser.

How it Succeeded

A. F. Little, secretary-treasurer and
managing director of the firm, in writ-
ing to Men's Wear Review regarding
the plan and how it worked out said: "It
has proven to be a splendid merchandis-
ing scheme and gave us a large increase
of sales at a very nominal cost. There
being three winners each day receiving
a ton of coal each, you can readily un-
derstand the vast number of boosters
there were as the competition progress-
ed; neighbors conveyed the good news
to neighbors, and it was a current topic
of conversation.

"Huge blocks of coal were placed
throughout the various departments,
and in our display window with the in-
scription, 'Free Coal' written thereon in
white letters. A free coal office was
built on the main floor where vouch-
ers were received."

Many Contests Running

During the month of December there
have been many contests in progress
over the country and there are those
who believe it will be one of the factors
of a successful business year during
1922. This plan is worth studying.

100 TONS OF COAL ABSOLUTE-
LY FREE. WHY. YOU ASK:

It is a fact that every progress-
ive firm spends thousands of dol-
lars each year to bring customers
to their place of business. In 1921
we are spending approximately
$30,000 a year in advertising —
commencing October 1st, and con-
tinuing during the month, or un-
til further notice, we have decided
to adopt a new plan — a plan where-
by our customers reap the bene-
fit. Our aim is to give away 100
tons of coal, which will be deliver-
ed to your doors, should the win-
ners live in the city.

Each day, commencing October
1st, we will give away 3 tons of
coal — one ton to each of three cus-
tomers who buy merchandise at cur
store on that day. To determine
who shall win this coal each day
we have arranged this unique
plan:

We are going to use on the back
page of each issue of The Morning
Leader, a space 17 inches square — -
a different copy will appear each
day — that is, new lines of merchan-
dise will appear each day, or a
new layout of copy. Each day's
advertisement will be as nearly as
possible an average advertisement,
without cuts, such as appears in
the press. The main headlines of
each advertisement will be in large
type; the headlines of each separ-
ate line of merchandise will be in
display and medium type. Our
usual name plates will appear on
the bottom of each advertisement.
There will be no cuts of garments,
or merchandise used in the display.
The prices of lines advertised will
be in heavy type figures in most
instances. The balance of the body
of the advertisement will appear
in usual news type. This adver-
tisement is a typical example of
the advertisements that will ap-
pear.

Commencing October 1st, and
continuing until further notice, we
will give to each customer a blank
voucher for each dollar he or she
spends in the store. On each vouch-
er the customer may estimate the
number of words appearing in our
advertisement in the issue of The
Leader three days hence.

The first three correct estimates
or nearest correct estimates, will
entitle the owners of same to one
ton of Gait Lump Coal free.

MEN'S WEAR SECTION

Dry Goods Review

The aeroplane used by the E. Plante Clothing Company in their scheme to
attract custom by giving air-drives with purchases of merchandise at their store.*

Aeroplane as a Business-Getter

Ernest Plante Clothing Co. of Montreal Successfully Work Out
Novel Plan — A Free Ride in the Air With a Twenty-five Cent Pur-
chase — Getting New Customers and Holding Them — Will Enlarge
Upon the Idea — Makes a Good Net Profit During the Time

Scheme is in Operation

WHAT is believed to be one of
the most original "stunts" used
in the men's wear field was that
used by the Ernest Plante Clothing Co.,
161 Craig St. West, Montreal, P. Q.
This idea is taking purchasers of goods
in his store for a spin in an aeroplane.
At first the offer was made that all
purchasers of fifty dollars or more at
one time would be given a ten minute
trip in the plane out afterwards that
arrangement was made thar all pur-
chasers of twenty-five cents or more
would be entitled to a trip. At first,
one might think that this was a foolish
move as many would com e in and make
any kind of a small purchase and then
ask to be given a ride, but such was not
the case. While there were a few who
asked to be taken up who had bought
only a small amount of gods, the
majority of the sales of would-be joy
riders averaged at least two dollars.

The idea of taking up anyone who
made a purchase was that if onc e they
started coming- to the store they would
continue and it was this attractive offer
that spread the news around and gave
the stoi-e such wide advertising. With
very few exceptions, customers who
started to come to the store while the
"stunt" was on and took advantage of
the ride have continued to buy there.
During the interview with Men's Wear
Review, Mr. Plante told of four chaps
who had been among the curious and
wishing to have a rid e had made pur-
chases, which totalled, did not exceed
five dollars and yet all had their ride.
Since their experience all have returned
and are now regular customers and up
to the time of the interview had spent
over fifty dollars between them in fur-
nishings.' "This," said Mr. Plante, "is
where the idea pays the returns."

The avei^age cost of each trip was
twenty cents and while this was not
always covered by the profit on the sale
it was a wonderful advertisement. To
further stimulate interest, Mr. Plante
offered to all purchasers of fifty dol-
lars or more to give them some stunt
flying and to wind up the trip by cir-
cling under the Victoria Bridge, which
spans the St. Lawrence River, the bridge
being a mile and a half long and hav-
ing abutments every few hundred feet.
There were only eight during the
whole season who would chance this
trip. This offer was only made after
it had been decided to give the rides
to the smaller purchasers also.
A Good Net Profit
The plane used was Canadian built

and cost two thousand dollars at the
point of building. Beside the pilot it has
seating capacity for two passengers. As
a result of the use of this plane the total
sales in the Plante st re exceeded
seventy-five thousand dollars for the
time it was in use. After all costs had
been figured and twenty per cent, al-
lowed for the deterioration of the mach-
ine, there was a net profit of three
thousand eight hundred dollars. This
result was very pleasing to Mr. Plante.

While Mr. Plante does not personally
take his customers for their rides, he is
nevertheless, a capable pilot himself.
He first took up flying himself in
the city with a friend who had a plane
and when he bought his own machine he
drove it from Toronto to Montreal, him-
self, after having been up in the air five
hours previous to his star-ting on the
trip. When the season closed, Mr.
Plante had four machines in operation,
these being used for commercial work
throughout the city and province. As
his first lieutentant, Mr. Plante has, in
the person of J. A. Mondor. one of the
cleverest pilots that served with the
Canadian Air Force in France.

To Expand Scheme

It is Mr. Plante's intention, next year
to put a ten passenger flying boat in
this service and offer the free trips to
the customers of the store as this year.
This, in his opinion, will mean bigger
business thon ever for the store.

Mr. Plante succeeded his father in
the business at his death, two years ago.
"I am a great believer in these 'stunt'

ideas," said Mr. Plante. "for they will
cause people to look at your store when
ordinary methods fail." One of the
best advertising methods used was to
drop pamphlets down occasionally from
the plane over the business section of
the city. There was no advertisement
of this event carried in the daily news-
papers, although our representative
failed to learn the reason, but each
month there was a full page used in
an aero paper which is circulated among
the Canadian pilots. Aside from this,
Mr. Plante relied entirely on his window-
advertising which played up the scheme
to a very large extent. The store is
located about twenty-five feet from one
of the busiest comers in the city and
there are people changing cars here at
all hours of the day.

TO MANUFACTURE WEBBED GOODS

Canadian dealers will shortly be offered
the product of a new manufacturing organi-
zation, though not a new firm. E. & S.
Currie, Ltd., of Toronto, have installed the
very latest machinery for the manufacture
of suspenders, garters and arm bands and are
bringing into being an organization that
promises to be energetic in the prosecution of
this new arm of their organization. The
trade will soon be offered their new product
as models are now well under way and ready
f or showing.

Currie's have let a contract for webbing
for their new factory which is being made to
their special order. Special attention is
being devoted to trimmings, which will
match, and to the metals used, which will be
guaranteed rust proof. The standard
length of their suspenders will be 38 inches.

Dnj Goods Revievj

MEN'S WEAR SECTION

No I.

Ho 2.

Paris Haberdashery In
Montreal

Figure 1 illustrate* a smart new
shirt imported from Paris featur-
ing the new ivide tucks and French
double cuff*. This shirt is shown
in hotli plain white pique or in per-
cale with a striped front, and. is a
popular style with well dressed men
of Paris.

Figure 2 shows some novelty
braces made of tie silk with fasten-
ing tabs of knitted silk. A single
piece of elastic at the back provides
sufficient stretch and comfort.
These come in a variety of colors,
mostly gay, as befits Parisian ori-
gin.

Figure 3 is a new pyja/ma de-
veloped in either silk or linen,
striped in blue, fastened with white
hand-made frogs. The monogram-
med pocket is a novel touch.

Figure U represents some start-
ling but extremely artistic novelty
handkerchiefs, featuring border
((nd ring designs in a multitude of
colors intermingled.

Figure 5 typifies the style of un-
derwear affected by men of France
to accompany shirts of the same
material, carrying out the "set"
idea. Pyjamas may also be ob-
tained in the same patterns. The
waisted effect is particularly
strong at present in Paris.

Figure G depicts two of the new-
est ideas in silk handkerchiefs for
men. The various colors used are
blended softly together until blues
greens, orange and reds are scarce-
ly distinguishable in a faint blur,
like Dresden china. The creators
name this novelty the "lava" de-
sign.

All novelties sketched by our ar-
tist at the Exhibit of French Pro-
ducts by courtesy of M. Chassagne
of Montreal, who represents the
nuikers, J. Hay em et Cie, of Farm,
France.

Ho 4.

No. 5

Ho.3

Mo.fc.

MEN'S WEAR SECTION

Dry Goods Review

Find It Necessary To "Keep On Our Toes"

So Say Scott & Foster Of Smiths Falls

Large Part of Their Business Is With the Railway Men — Do Not

Find That Sensational Methods Have Much Effect With This

Class of Trade — Conservative Methods Preferred

HERE is only one worth whiie
location for the men's wear
shop in a small town and that
is close to the post office and the mov-
ies. If located conveniently to both
places the retailer gets the benefit of a
steady stream of pedestrians at all
hours of the day and evening, and many
of these will be glad of the opportunity
to study a good display of new merchan-
dise if they have a few minutes to put
in before the mail arrives or the sec-
ond show commences." Such is the
opinion of H. G. Scott, of the firm of
Scott & Foster of Smiths Falls, Ont.,
expressed during an interview with a
member of the staff of Dry Goods Re-
view.

Caters to Railway Men

In a town such as Smiths Falls which
is a prominent railway centre through
which pass daily transcontinental lines
in four directions, there is naturally a
large population of railway men who
require a considerable amount of mer-
chandise suited to their individual needs,
both for work and leisure requirements.
How t» cater most satisfactorily to this
important class of customers is the
question which Scott & Foster have set
themselves to answer in a practical
manner.

Keeping Up Turnover

"We are finding business good," ex-
plained Mr. Scott, "but we must keep
on our toes constantly to give the best
service demanded. This place is known
as a 'mail-order terminal' which means
that it is a distributing point for the
many thousands of catalogues which
come through for this section of the
country, and consequently, we have our
strongest competitor right in the
freight cars which unload their contents
into our local post office. As may be
imagined the advent of the catalog
is the signal for local merchants to
speed up their efforts to offer exception-
al prices, ,and that we have not yet gone
behind in turnover is proof of the fact
that our efforts are not in vain. Our
most successful plan of combating the
probem is merely to supply the self-
same merchandise at a few cents less
and lay the goods before the customer
as proof. The catalogue pictures al-
ways look so inviting and attractive, yet
the merchandise never seems to come up
to expectations somehow."

"Railway men are good spenders."
continued Mr. Scott, "and they want
the best, whether it is for work or for
play. They also appreciate truthful ad-
vertising in any form and are quick to
criticise any attempt at misrepresenta-
tion. They are not like the farmers

who want more value than ever for their
dollar but ask merely for a square deal,
that is to say, the best kind of goods
procurable and they make no kick about
the price but prefer to look over things
themselves. We have found the best way
of selling working gloves, for example,
is to keep a full range of the wanted
kinds in a small fixture right beside the
front dooor, where a man can see at a
glance the kind he wants, can try them
on himself and has o^y to bring them
over to be wrapped and change given if
necessary. There is scar?e'y a day that
this convenient little salesman does not
dispose of several pairs of gloves and
the idea of 'help yourself is probably
the reason."

"We have found that sensational
stunts carry no weight with this class
of custom," continued Mr. Scott, "and
for this reason we do not feature sales
of any sort, any clearances that may be
desired being effected by sharp price
cutting in the ordinary way."

Ties and Jewellery Accessible
Appearance counts for much in the
store also, and a cheery bright atmos-
phere fairly radiates from it. The walls
are calsomined a soft green with a con-
ventional border stencilled in black.
Table displays of bright scarlet sweat-
ers here and there picked out in yellow
or white provide a note of striking con-
trast as well. All the merchandise is
under glass with the exception of neck-
wear and jewellery articles, which are
displayed upon the usual racks easily
accessible to the customer who desires
to try the effect of several different
kinds. The partners believe that ties
should be close to the hands of custom-
ers not to be admired at a distance, and
they also feel that such small articles
as studs, cuff links or collar pins are
twice as interesting when they can be
picked up and examined closely than
they are when viewed through glass.
These are goods which appeal to a man's
sense of vanity if you will, and are not
so much necessities as impulse mer-
chandise, bought without previous
thought being given to the need for the
article. When a shirt is being sold,
how easy it is to slip one of the new
monogrammed cuff buttons into the but-
tonhole and let the customer judge of
the effect. Few men can resist an ad-
ditional purchase presented in this way,
be they railway men or business men.
There is no need to say much in intro-
ducing goods in this manner, for the
mere act of showing the combination
of the studs with the shirt or a tie-clip
with a cravat, or a silk muffler inside an
overcoat should be sufficient. In fact

there is no class of merchandise which
cannot be effectively supplemented with
some little extra, and it is the total cost
of these little extras which help to roll
up a goodly amount in '.ollars and cent?
in the course of the year.

The Friendly Spirit

Friendliness wins customers in a rail-
way town, too, explained Mr. Scott, be-
cause most of the men like to be called
by their first names and dislike the term
"Mister" as savoring of "high-browness."
Even though customer and store-keeper
may not be friends of life-long stand-
ing, they are usually "Tom" or "Jack"
to one another before very long. Court-
esy to customers is insisted on as one
of the primary principles of merchandis-
ing in the Scott & Foster store and al-
though familiarity is encouraged, there
is not the slightest fear that its at-
tendent failing of lack of respect may
become noticeable in the relations be-
tween customers and sales staff.

Conservative Methods Preferred

As an example of the rare efforts
made by Scott & Foster to employ meth-
ods savoring of the unusual was cited an
instance when they gave away fountain
pens with boys' suits. The pens were
exceptionally good, yet no greater busi-
ness was done than would have been or-
dinarily the case and ever since the
firm has found it unnecessary to stim-
ulate their particular class of trade by
such means. "The wives of railway men
are thrifty and capable buyers but are
among the best customers any store
can wish for," said Mr. Scott. "They
want smart, good quality merchandise
whether it is for son, father or brother,
and they are willing to pay for it with-
out quibbling over prices."

In the fiscal year 1921, wool export ship-
ments from Canada totalled in value $2,168,-
256, and in 1920, $5,472,236. In 1921, 7,-
128,065 pounds went to the United ftates,
130,169 to the United Kingdom, and 29,689
to Newfoundland. In the year previous
8,859,682 pounds were exported to the Un-
ited States, 195.081 to the United Kingdom,
and 29,964 to Newfoundland. Canada has,
however, always been the principal market
and consumer of her own wool products and
still remains so. It is worthy of note that
up to the Middle of October, sales cf the
Canadian Co-operative Wool Growers to the
Canadian trade exceeded the total sales of
last season by some 500,000 pounds.

W. H. Cole has opened up a men's
wear store at Bowmanville, Ontario.

llni Goods Review

NEW GOODS SECTION

"JforeMorb"

HERE is something par-
ticularly pleasurable in
the sensation of awaiting a
surprise, of anticipating new
and delightful things. The
world, in its industrial sense,
revolves by seasons, and in
the particular industries
which cater to the adorn-
ment of the Canadian wo-
man there are but two which
signify, the openings of
which are awaited much as
an expectant audience
awaits the rise of the curtain upon a new play.

And so each year there are but two acts in the
drama of fashion, the Spring and Fall seasons —
Spring eternally youthful, evanescent and joyous;
Autumn bedecked in scarlet and gold, the pomp
of maturity. In Spring the desire to be free of
Winter's restrictions leads us inevitably to fling
aside cumbersome wraps and furs and to don col-
ors such as Nature herself puts on in early May.
The new season is now slowly revealing herself
to us accompanied by an entire concourse of
charming possibilities in the matter of dress and
its accessories.

And as if in realization of the fact that so
many perplexing problems have been happily
solved, while others are on the high road to solu-
tion, the guiding minds of industry have evolved
products which express the universal longing to
be free from the "Winter of our discontent." Can-
ada's workrooms once more are busy and from
them are pouring forth such captivating novelties
— dainty, original, artistic, in honour of this return
of Spring.

But though certain rules of fashion may be
decreed, it must be remembered that the last word
is seldom if ever pronounced, despite all the boasts
heralded as the "dernier cri de Paris," so that
throughout everv month of the twelve, many
?mall additional style points, subtle variations
upon color effects or lines are worked out by
versatile brains and fingers. And these are de-
veloped gradually as Spring gives way to Sum-
mer, towards the one end of achieving individual
distinction and even perfection.

Then too, there are innumerable delights to
contemplate in the matter of accessories both for
the costume and the home — all those little but
vastly important trifles which have such tremen-
dous value in the achievement that becomes fin-
ally, the perfect whole. It does not pay to lose
sight of a single delightful change, for, after all,
the perfect garden is that one in which the beauty
is constantly renewed, in which, by the time the
tulips and lilacs are beginning to fade and lose
their fragrance, the rosy shoots of peonies are
well out of the ground ; in which, when the

peonies have in turn ceased
to bloom, the golden rod is
almost out. Thus, there are
always flowers to pick, dif-
ferent ones from month to
month. So the discovery of
each new and delightful
change adds the happiest
zest to the inspiriting busi-
ness of accenting feminine
individuality for each is a
foil to set off the nuances of
personality.

To those who follow the
intriguing flux of the every varying mode, DRY
GOODS REVIEW offers in the following pages
a selection of representative models of many and
diverse kinds, which have been chosen here and
there as typical of the best that Canadian makers
have devised for Spring 1922. It is no mere idle
phrase that is used throughout the country in ref-
erence to the approaching season. All retailers
will have to make very special efforts to mer-
chandise goods during the Spring months, bear-
ing in mind the fact that there is still a marked
tendency on the part of consumers to buy with
care and discrimination with a keen eye on price
tickets. Retailers of dry goods and kindred lines
however, have one powerful aid, namely, the dic-
tates of Dame Fashion. Style is the one quality
which can create sales and which enhances the
value of the merchandise in the eyes of the con-
sumer.

How to buy style goods so as to have what his
public will accept, is the special aim of the suc-
cessful merchant. To do this, he must have an in-
timate knowledge of fashions as well as of styles.
It should be remembered that fashions are created
in Paris and are variously adapted and modified
on this continent developing into "styles" as we
know them. The merchandise illustrated in the
Art Section which follows, has been selected be-
cause it is the kind of merchandise created by
Canadians for Canadian women and their homes,
interpreting the mode in all its various branches,
whether in ready-to-wear, millinery, gloves, un-
derwear or house furnishings, and most of all, be-
cause it is the kind of merchandise that retailers
throughout this country will want to buy and sell.
It is essential that the merchant should study the
trend of the new fashion and its style variations
that he may go ahead with confidence during the
months of spring.

Complete summaries of the mode in its different
lines will be found in the various sections of this
issue, and a close study of the facts thus presented
will demonstrate that all are admirably exempli-
fied in the numerous illustrations which embellish
this annual Spring number.

NEW GOODS SECTION

Dry Goods Revit »

Biot Again

HpHIS Toronto girl is wearing a
-*■ toque of black cellophane straw
with a mount of orange biot feath-
ers. It is a particularly chic hat
for a young model. ■ — SHOWN By
The Dominion Ostrich Feather
Company, Limited, Toronto.

Checkers

are the latest fashion note whether
on gloves, hose or hats. Here an
unusual treatment of narrow tubu-
lar silk is woven to show checks
of navy blue and grey on a In-
coming upturned brim. The hat is
developed in taffeta with a soft
crown. — Hat Shown by Courtesy
of Debenham's (Canada) Ltd., of
Montreal.

Drv Goods Review

NEW GOODS SECTION

Peacock Blue

was the delightful Spring color em-
ployed to develop this smart hat of
tuhular braid and Givs de Lon-
dres silk. The upturned brim is
shaped in the new batwing outline
pierced with a metal arrow. The
crown is softly draped. This par-
ticular type of hat is almost uni-
versally becoming to youthful faces
and is designed for wearing at a'l
informal affairs. — Hat BY Cour-
tesy of Farrell Belisle and Com-
pany of Montreal.

'TPHIS unusual little model of
-*■ black slipper satin is designed,
in petal-shaped tabs which arc /e/ 1
supple to conform to the decree
for softness of outline. A double
chain of jet bugles dangles non-
chalantly over the right car t>
prove that beads are quite correct
in any position. — Hat by Courtesy
of Debenham's (Canada) Ltd..
Montreal.

N.EW GOODS SECTION

Dry Goods Review

A French Creation

By Basselin-Villetard. This tri-
corne is of allover haircloth and
the feathers so charmingly arrang-
ed are biot. It is all black and one
of those models which are becoming
to almost every face. — Shown by
D. McCall Company, Limited,
Toronto.

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Paris Sponsors the J'eil

and when it is draped over a close-
fitting hat of navy cellophane
stratv with an applique of velvet
roses, one's appearance is beyond
reproach. The embroidery on the
veil is especially effective. — Hat
and Veil by Farrell, Belisle Co.,
of Montreal.

Dry Goods Review

N.EW GOODS SECTION

Approved by Parisiennes

HpHE extreme simplicity of cut
■*- and the unusual embroidery
about the classic square neck and
elbow sleeves, make this chemise
de nuit distinctive and charming.
The little cap which accompanies
it is developed in a combination of
sheer net, filet and Valenciennes
laces with little iving-like exten-
sions that are stiffened to stand
out from the wearer's profile. The
edge is encircled with satin ribbon
to match one's negligee. — Gown
and Cap from J. Hayem and Cie
of Paris, France. — Shown by
Courtesy of M. Chassagne, of
Montreal.

Pyjamas Are The Thing

T^VERY woman going South this
- L/ year has at least one set of
pyjamas in her wardrobe trunk.
They are seen in every style and
in all colors.

This one is of a wonderful color —
a blue which is midway between a
spray and a Venice blue. Baby
Irish insertion is combined with
hand-embroidered net. The frilly
edging of the crepe itself makes
it one of the most alluring gar-
ments of the year. — Shown by
Ladies' Wear Limited, Toronto.

NEW GOODS SECTION

Dry Goods He-view

A Novelty Negligee

'T^HE Canadian trade is looking
-*■ now-a-days for novelties such
us are seen in Paris or Neiv York.
This garment of crepe de chine is
closed at the bottom. It slips over
the head with an opening for the
feet at the sides. Domes fasten the
openings securely, makina this
negligee a delightful coverall. It is
made in all the pastel shades. —
Shown by the Lingerie Company
of Canada, Toronto.

Lingerie of Gossamer

is here portrayed for the Spring
ivardrobe. The seated model is
wearing one of the neivest slio-on
tailored corset covers of pale flesh
crepe de chine, made with a doubl?
yoke and filet medallion, insert. The
step-in draivers are also of crepe
de chine with an elastic ivaist,
edged irith fine ecru net lace. The
straight combination worn by the
other model is of crepe de chine
trimmed with fine ecru lace, while
the waist is slightly gathered by a
pastel-tinted ribbon tie. Both the
combination and the cover feature
the new neck lines shoivn for next
season. — Lingerie from the Kas-
sab Kimona Company of Mon-
treal.

Dry Goods Review

NEW GOODS SECTION

They Go In Sets

'"PHIS year most manufacturers
-*■ of fine lingerie arc making
complete sets instead of separate
garments. These knickers and
chemise in pink crepe de chine. The
points are put into the seams by
hand. — Shown by Ladies' Wear,
Limited, Toronto.

With Summer Frocks

this underskirt of white wash-satin
should be very desirable. The con-
trasting border may be of black,
pink, red, blue, mauve, yellow or
grey. The double hemstitching and
the scalloped edge are two very at-
tractive features of this petticoat.
— Shown by H. P. Ritchie Com-
pany, Limited, Toronto.

NEW GOODS SECTION

Dry Goods R'-vieiv

The Indispensable Sweater

serves a two-fold purpose when it is worn with a smart
skirt of knitted wool in a smart contrasting shade. This
simple but practical costume is entirely knitted and com-
bines a tuxedo coat of black with a skirt of white pin-
striped in black. The business woman as well as the f 'or-
dinate visitor to mountains or seaside will find a knitted
costume an invaluable possession. — Costume by Courtesy
of Knitters Limited op Montreal.

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Her Sunday Dress

Above — This charming little frock is desigyied for smaV
tots from two to four gears of age. It is of fine white
over underslip of silk. The latter may be blue, white, pink
or yellow. Valenciennes lace and insertion along with
two-toned ribbon to blend with the color of the slip,
make it a simple but effective little garment for best

occasions. — Shown" by H. P. Ritchie Company, Limited.
Toronto.

"Palillon"

Left — This unusual little suit is named the Butterfly Capi
Coat by reason of its wing-like sleeve effect. Although it
is nothing but a short cape, yet. by reason of its unique
design, it passes muster as a box coat. Underneath is
worn a simple sleeveless frock of Poiret twill, the entin
costume being of navy blue with b'aek horn buttons and
silk tassels. The lining is of gaily patterned Radium silk. —
Costume by Lazare & Novek of Montreal.

Dry Goods R

evieiv

NEW GOODS SECTION

"Fore"

in immaculate white velours knickers ar.d smart coat of
emerald green, the sports woman is well equipped for the
links. The same natty outfit is appropriate for riding or
any outdoor sport. The knickers are finished with a deep
cuff at the knee which is covered by the woollen hose. —
Costume by Courtesy ok Greenberg, Smith Company,
Montreal.

The severity of a sports suit often requires the softening
influence of a hand-made blouse of white voile, hand-
drawn and with the collar and cuffs edged with real filet
lace. Fashion insists that the blouse be tailored and
hand-made if possible for the coming summer. — Blouse
from the American Waist and Dress Company, Mon-
treal. I i

Sweet Sixteen

She will look enchanting in this ultra new frock or navy
a/nd tan creponge fabric with its novel cowl collar. The
sliaht flare of the cuffs and the lowered waist line are
typical of Spring fashion dictates. — FROCK TROM THE M.
Gardner Comfany of Montreal.

N.EW GOODS SECTION

Dry Goods Review

"Miss Springtime"

T) IGHT — One of the smartest furs on the choker
*^-<yrder is the stone marten. This girl is wearing a
two-skin marten., light and dark shades of which are
particularly effective with a Spring costume. —
Shown by the W. N. Ward Company, Toronto.

Cape-Dress For the Very Young Lady

\ BOVE — New York is showing many models for
■^ * the little girl and the one who has jtist reached
her teens, like those for the older woman. While
this one is after the style of grown-ups, it is very
youthful. It is of navy taffeta with hand-embroidery
in a contrasting shade. Though designed originally
for street wear, many buyers intend to feature it
for afternoons during the next two months. — Shown
by Dresses Limited, Toronto.

Snail Shells Are Decreed by Paris!

"n\IFFICULT to believe that the delicate and pearl-
*-^ like shell clusters so effectively used on this
smart Spring hat of brown cellophane and cire
satin really belong to the humble snail, but such is
indeed the case. The superb neckpiece is of European
Fitch in double strand effect which can be worn in
many different ways and is ideal as the summer
fur "par excellence." — Hat Shown by Courtesy op
the Exclusive Hat Company of Montreal, and
the Neckpiece by Courtesy op Boulter Waugh
Company op Montreal.

Drjj Goods Review

NEW GOODS SECTION

The Finishing Touch

io the Spring costume is added when a pair of French kid
skin gauntlets neatly strapped at the wrist are worn. The
fit and finish of the new French kid gloves is a marked fea-
ture of this season. Together with gloves the woman of
fashion must possess a new bag and nothing more attractive
and appropriate can be selected than this new model of black
moire silk, lined in beige corded silk. The shape is altogether
new, combining a soft effect with a snap purse in the centre
A slender cord provides the correct note by which the ba r i
is suspended from the arm. — Gloves from the Alexandre
Glove Company of Paris — Bag from the Federated Lea-
ther Company of Montreal.

When April Showers Come

Madame may select one of these new umbrellas with
which to ward off the unwelcome drop;*. The three
models with convenient attachments for carrying will
commend themselves to up-to-date women, there being
a model for every occasion, formal or informal. A
striking example of a ivell designed umbrella for men
is shown in the handle of curved design, fitted with a
simple gold band for engraving. — -UMBRELLAS BY COUR-
TESY of the Eclipse Umbrella Company of Mon-
treal.

The Elusive Handkerchief

will ever be at its j)ossessor's beck and call when it is
dropped into such an intriguing little bag as this one,
which matches exactly its owner's smart little hat.
Developed in black Canton creoc end decorated with
ribbon roses, bag and hat are easily detected as dating
from Spring 1922. — Hat and Bag FROM Farrell, Bel-
isle Company, Montreal.

NEW GOODS SECTION

Dry Goods Review

A Canadian Idea

To answer the demand for silk hose no matter
how cold the weather and to give a certain amount
of warmth, this stocking has been made double. The
inner one is of cotton and the outer silk. They are
attached only at the seam at back and along the
foot. The cotton gives an added histre tj the silk.
The greatly reinforced toe and heel is another fea-
ture. — Made by the Allen Silk Mills, Toronto. —
Patent Applied For.

For Indoors or Outdoors

This simply designed knitted coat will be equally
suitable. Developed in an effective mixture of silk
ayid ivool in shot effect, its shaggy colloyr and cuffs
impart a charmingly youthful appearance. The
length is another smart point about it and the color
is a soft dull blue through which a fleck of whiU
is just perceptible. — FROM THE FAINER KNITTING

Company of Montreal.

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For the Bride's
Apartment

Here are two new
kinds of curtains char-
acterized by simplicity
and good taste. The
right hand one is of
mercerized marquisette,
hemstitched and trim-
med with insertion and
dado of fine filet late
in rose and butterfly
design, finished with
real linen lace edging.
The curtain at the left
illustrates a unique and
novel method of apply-
ing border trimmin /.-
by a "zig-zag" much inc.
The entire trimming of
this model is real liru n
lace so that it is one
of the most practical
and durable curtain*
made. — Both Designs
ORiGiNATEr &• Shown
by Courtesy of Daly
& Morin Company of
Montreal.

Dry Goods Re

ncir

N.EW GOODS SECTION

THESE three bags were chosen as representative of some of the Spring designs in handbag lore. The one on
the left is the newest type of swagger, made in beaver calf with safety overlapping frame and flap. The
centre one is a beauty bag in fancy hippo leather and the bag on the right is of velvet crocodile leather, featur-
ing a new sliding mirror. — Shown by Western Leather Goods Company, Limited, Toronto.

HERE are six striking new examples of gloves for next winter illustrating new dress and sports effects. The
first pair shown are one pearl dome pique kid with the new premier points, shown in staple shades. The
fringed wool gauntlets are in angora wool with a wide ribbed cuff. The third pair are of mocha with elastic
wrist and heavy trimming of real fur and a wool lining. A new strap wristed gauntlet is shown next, also trim-
med with fur and made in sable and slate mocha. The fifth pair are of washable kid in pale pastel shades for dress
occasions, finished with fine black stitching. Last of all is shown a striking novelty in heavy pure wool gauntlets
for winter sports featuring a checked cuff in several colo rs. The gloves shown feature yellow upon white. — Gloves
Shown by Courtesy op Dent, Allcroft and Company of Montreal.

NEW GOODS SECTION

Dry Goods Review

Miladi's

Boudoir

Cushions, hangings:
and artistic bed cov-
erings are to a room
what gloves, hat and
neckwear are to a
costume. It is the
final touch achieved
by the use of the
right accessories
that imparts a smart
appearance both to
madame herself and
to her boudoir. So,
these superb cush-
ions, covered in
brocades, rich silks
and damasks as well
as the magnificent
down puff depicted
in the centre, also of
French damask with
a panel figured in a
shadow effect, will
provide that exclus-
ive note to Madame 's
room, bespeak'ng ut-
ter comfort iv con-
junction with all
that is artistic and
novel. — Cushions
and Puff from"
Greenshields, Ltd..
Montreal.

For the Homebuilder

Black warp colored Scotch
madras, in closely woven tex-
ture resembling the weave of
an expensive tapestry. This
beautiful design can be pur-
chased in royal blue, old gold,
mulberry, sage green and
light gold grounds with con-
trasting color combinations.
Shown by Alexander Jam-
ieson and Co., Toronto.

Dry Goods Revit w

N.EW GOODS SECTION

Hand Blocked Print made in
France especially for Ca adian
trade, in three different designs,
among which such brilliant effects
as mustard, cream, blue and black
are employed as grounds with vari-
colored foliage and bird designs
used as contrasts. The remarkable
feature about these superb drap-
eries is their price which is
less than one dollar a, yard for 30
inch widths, a matter of 33 per
rent lcs than the price °f regular
block prints. — Shown Exclusively
by Daly and Morin Company of
Montreal.

The Art of Making

Windows Beautiful

can be easily learned when such
beautiful reproductions of Euro-
pean panellings are obtainable. The
curtain on the right is of fine mar-
quisette, inset with filet crochet in-
sertion and motifs, each section be-
ing ten inches wide but vat ying in
depth up to 2V 2 yards long. The
curtain on the left is a striking
sectional voile panel of real linen
lace treated with filet and Point
Venice motif fs. Each section is
11% inches wide. For the stately
reception hall or the period draw-
ing room could anything more ef-
fective be devised. — Created and
Shown by Courtesy of Daly &
Morin Company of Montreal.

NEW GOODS SECTION

J>rij Goods Review

\ T ERY clever shades are now made
* for the ivory lamps which pleased
the trade so well last Fall. This shade
of dark blue georgette over gold satin
is modelled on the lines of the night-
lamps which are so popular. — SHOWN
By French Ivory Products Limited.
Toronto.

A Canadian Truck

n^IIIS truck is just like one for grown-ups-. The pedis
-*- are well made and carcfidly put together. It is paint-
ed in blue and red. — Shown by the Coleman Fare Box
Company. Limited, Toronto.

NEARLY all of the ivory articles made for this Spring are distinctively novel — they must be in order to attract business
to a line which has had a run for so long. The tlower-bas; ct and the tray illustrated here are of ivory woven to resemble
wicker. The two powder holders attached to the tray are alco novelties. The man's collar box is a new departure in the
manufacture of ivory. — Shown by Carl Austin and Company, Toronto.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Interesting 117 A T^ A. C* C* ^"\ /*** f\ T* TP ^\ TWT O in the

Display of

WABASSO COTTONS

Offices of

Alphonse Racine Limited
Montreal

WABASSO
Trade Mark Reg'd

/^\NE of the finest displays of Wabasso
Cottons ever made in Canada was
in the General Offices of this progressive
wholesale house, who, as large distributors
of Wabasso Cottons, adopted this new and
enterprising method of prominently display-
ing this line.

The Wabasso Cotton Company

Limited

Three Rivers, P.Q.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

HAILEYBURY,

ONT.

Matabanick

SUDBURY,

ONT.

Balmoral

LONDON,

ONT.

145 Carling Si

{3HERBROOKE,
QUE.

50 Wellington St

44 Years Established

Alphonse Racine Limited

Montreal
Growing With Canada

RETAINING our many old customers,
OBTAINING many new customers,
MAINTAINING the confidence of both old and new
by Service for Satisfaction.

Do You Know Our Personnel?

during 1922 we purpose

Describing The 14 Different Departments

and

Introducing to You the Manager of Each Department

DEPT. A — Staple Cottons — Domes-
tic and Imported, Whites and
Greys, Sheetings, Pillow Casings,
Shirtings, Apron Cloths, Tickings,
Batting, etc., etc.

DEPT. Ax — Flannelettes — Cotton
Yarns, Pound Goods, and special
jobs of all kinds in cotton piece
goods.

Location — Just inside the main
entrance turn to your right, three
Separate Departments in one Big
Department.

JAMES MITCHELL

Manager Depts. "A" and "Ax*

TORONTO,

ONT.

72 Bay Stree.

HAMILTON

ONT.

Lister Chrabrs.

SYDNEY,

C. B.

269 Charlotte St.

HALIFAX.

N. S.
119 Roy Bldg.

Manufacturers and Wholesale Distributors of Dry Goods

60-98 St. Paul St. West, Montrea

FACTORIES:-Beaubien St. Montreal,
St. Denis, Que., St. Hyacinthe, Que.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

SALE RESULTS

are absolutely certain
with —

(DO A AAA A A McLean and Garland,

«pZU,UUU.UU Winnipeg, Man.

(SHC A AAA AA Belleveau P eace Co.,

«PUU,UUU.UU Winnipeg, Man.

$15,000.00 Calgary, Alberta.

$15,000.00 "^"'S o*.

(t?£C AAA AA MaxBeauvais

«PU0,UUU.UU Montreal, Quebec.

The T. K. Kelly Sales System

Minneapolis

U. S. A.

Minn.

DRESS FABRICS

Dry Goods Review

New homespun patterns which are meeting with approval in New York.

They co-me in a wide range of colors and combinations of colors. Shown

by Hawthorne Mills, Carleton Place, Ont.

Many New Crepy Weaves in Silks

Montreal Houses Show New Materials For More Elaborate Gowns

For the Trousseaux — High Colors in Georgette — French Sports

Wear Silks Among the Spring Offerings — Silk Jersey in 56 Inch

Width— A New Synthetic Silk

THE crepy weaves in silk are to be
the leaders next Spring and Sum-
mer, if present indications are to
be relied upon, according to Montreal
silk importers. But this must not be
taken to mean that there will be no
change to speak of in the existing de-
mand in which crepe weaves take a
prominent part. Instead, it is thought
that Cantons of the regulation type will
take second place in preference to crepe
satins, crepe morrocain, crepe radio and
"onde faconne," which last resembles a
brocaded crepe and is very sumptuous
and unusual. These fabrics are of course
destined for more elaborate gowns and
will undoubtedly be included in all the
smart trousseaux of 1922, but at the
same time, it is interesting to note that
crepe de chines are coming back better
than ever, particularly in high shades,
and the demand even at this early date
augurs well for the success of a color-
ful season to supersede the prolonged
session of all black to which devotees
of fashion have remained so long faith-
ful.

Orders received toy leading wholesalers
this month for crepe weaves are far
greater in volume than for any other
class of silk, and crepe de chine ranks
with taffeta in popularity with the
average trade to such an extent that it
would appear as though all lingerie,
waists and frocks for Spring are to be
made of this material if the supply is
to be absorbed. The high colors will
have the preference in georgette too,
as well as in crepe de chine, and the
former fabric will come out of its semi-
obscurity for the purpose of forming
effective trimmings to the more sombre
note of the gowns and blouses them-
selves. "Georgette is the only satis-
factory answer to the universal demand
for something cool and serviceable for
hot weather wear," remarked a silk
importer to Dry Goods Review, "and
whether it is decreed by fashion or not,
it simply cannot be improved upon for
supplying a dressy garment requiring
a minimum of trouble in keeping it
fresh."

Crepes For Sports Wear

Fancy crepe weaves for sports wear
are now offered for Summer selling, and
these are featured in heavier weaves
than in other years. An important
shipment of French sports si'ks is due
to arrive in Montreal shortly, in which
many stunning checked effects will be
offered. Krepe-Knit or Chinchilla-Knit,
as it is more commonly known in Can-
ada, is assured of a wide popularity for
all manner of frocks on account of its

extremely practical nature and dura-
bility. It could not have been expected
that tricolette should survive another
season of supreme leadership, and hap-
pily Chinchilla-Knit cloth comes just in
time to form a satisfac orv subs itute.
The colors in which it is offered are all
leading shades in the Textile Color
Association's list and include bobolink,
verdigris, (which is the new name for
jade) fuchsia, peacock, hollyhock, prun-
ella, bon-fire, wall-flower and rubellite.
Tile blue is said t > be the most popular
shade for next summer While the three
candy shades, especially "fudge" and
"taffy" brown will be close seconds.

Taffetas will be in demand in the
usual shades, especially in navy, black
and nigger brown, while for novelty
purposes and for the quaint old-fash-
ioned style of frocks, the new sprigged
taffetas in "Raye" effect are considered
very promising. The latter ran?e are
generally in white grounds striped in
black with gay little nosegays liberally
besprinkled over the striping.

Silk Jerseys Now 56 Inches Wide

Silk jersey is again shown in white,
navy and black only, in a 56 inch width,
which is decidedly satisfactory for mak-
ing sports skirts, etc. This new jersey
has a ribbed back and is of British man-
ufacture, greatly superior to any ether
line yet receved here.

More Artificial Silk

There will be a greater amount of ar-
tificial silk than usual offered to the
trade and these fabrics are always sure

of a warm welcome on account of their
striking appearance. Radium-glo, the
latest development in British made ar-
tificial silks, features a shot effect
which enhances still more the natural
glossy surface of the material. Speaking
to an authority on silk fabrics, a staff
member of Dry Goods Review was in-
formed that these artificial silks are no
longer a thing of the future; they have
arrived. "The worst thing about arti-
ficial silk," said this man, "is its name.
It should be called constructed or syn-
thetic fibre. There is more artificial
silk than natural silk being produced to-
day, and in ten years from now I think
there will be 25 times as much arti-
ficial silk as natural silk produced. Take
the knitting trades alone, they consume
a great volume c f this fibre, for about
90 per cent, of the knitted silk sweaters
we see to-day a e of artificial silk."

An Interesting Novelty

There is a new synthetic silk on the
market which has recently been brought
out by a leading Scotch firm. It is
claimed for this knitted fabric that, un-
like artificial silk, it is made, not from
wood fibre, but from a wool base; that
it is practically as warm as wool, and
that it will wash like linen without any
shrinkage, retaining its silk like gloss-
iness, after washing and ironing. The
shades are guaranteed sunfast and wash-
able. This new material comes in a
number of different weights, construc-
tions and patterns suitable for under
Continued on page 113

Dry Goods Review

DRESS FABRICS

Domestic Fabrics For Spring

Mills Are Well Sold Up on Spring Materials— Knitted Tweed Will

Be Very Popular — Many New Colors Are Introduced — Price Will

Be Drawing Card — Homespuns Again Strong

TWO DOMESTIC made fabrics will
be an outstanding feature of the
dress goods trade in 1922, accord-
ing to a prominent Ontario manufactur-
er interviewed this month by a staff
member of Dry Goods Review. "We are
completely sold up on homespuns and
jersey cloths for next spring and are
receiving enquiries from New York re-
garding both fabrics. Many of our new
designs for next season are regarded as
too extreme for the trade on this side
of the border but the New York makers
are eager for them. In this line-up of
knitted fabrics we expect knitted tweed
to be the most popular in all its differ-
ent shades, showing a Donegal fleck just
like the regulation imported material.
But this knitted tweed wnl wear infinite-
ly better, will never sag or stretch or
wear smooth and will be ideal for busi-
ness women and sports wear by anyone."

Price

The price of these new fabrics is an-
other great point in their favor. As
the process of manufacture is infinitely
cheaper than in woven goods, it follows
that the knitted fabric will be the choice
of the majority of women who desire a
smart garment at a minimum of cost,
furthermore, since it combines more
warmth with less weight, it is the ideal
cold weather fabric as well.

These knitted fabrics which are selling
for immediate requirements have the fa-
culty of tailoring to perfection and keep-
ing in shape with little or no pressing.
So steadily is the demand for knitted
cloths in all weights increasing that this
manufacturer predicts that they will be
in universal demand within a few years,
to the exclusion of alll other materials
for utility wear.

Knitted fabrics are manufactured in

weights varying from seven to thirty
ounces ajid are suitable for every type
of outer garment from the afternoon
frock to the heaviest wrap. The new
jumper blouses are being developed in
knitted fabrics also this season, and in
consequence the same materials are be-
ing called for to make up separate skirts.
An enormous range of mixtures is
shown in these fabrics, reproducing prac-
tically every known style of tweed fin-
ish in a manner scarcely distinguishable
from the original.

Home Spuns Again to the Fore

Next to knitted fabrics in popularity
rank the new homespuns shown in both
plain and colors and innumerable dainty
stripes and plaids. Very pretty effects
are achieved in dark grounds upon which
double over-checks are imposed in a
bright contrast, such as combinations of
rose, brown, blue and grey on grey
grounds. Opinion is divided as to
whether the bold stripings or the plain
soft colors will be most fashionable next
summer for skirts, dresses and suits,
but possibly the prediction that Cana-
dian women will continue to adopt the
quieter, inconspicuous solid shades while
Americans will prefer the stripes and
checks, will hold good.

Two New Blues

The line-up of solid colors in these
light weight home spuns includes the
following; mauve, tangerine, rose, sand,
slag, gunmetal myrtle green, Westmin-
ster purple, and two new blues known as
Byng and Madeleine, of which the form-
er is a duplication of the widely known
Harding blue, rechristened in honor of
Canada's leading lady. The latter is a
soft greenish-blue tone, somewhat like
the color known as Myng or Chinese

blue, last year. The two latter shades
are promised a wide vogue for 1922.

Duvetyns in New Colors

Duvetyns are still being called for
both for immediate and future require-
ments and will continue to lead for dres-
sy suits, wraps and frocks. Out of thir-
teen shades offered by a leading Can-
adian manufacturer whose products are
widely known throughout America, nine
are variations upon the neutral tints,
ranging from the lightest tones down to
the darkest brown. The new shades are
named Goblin, clay, beaverpelt, olive,
drab, pilgrim, bamboo, rabbit, madura,
and mocha and in this order they de-
scribe very accurately the scale of tones
from light to dark.

The remaining four new colors are all
blue, two of which are quite vivid and
two rather sombre. The bright tones
are called Byng and mallard, while the
darker ones are known as corsair and
admiral, the last being a rich navy.

A leading Montreal wholesaler in
speaking of the trend of dress fabrics
for the coming season ventured the opin-
ion that the sports development will re-
main uppermost and that colors will be
strong and conspicuous. He believes
this to be true of both knitted fabrics
and homespuns, but predicts that white
will also be in greater demand than for
some time.

Another importer speaks of a vogue
for mannish saxonies for costume cloths,
with and without colored checks and
stripes for spring and states that worst-
eds are being bought sparingly although
garberdines still continue to command
considerable interest with many buyers.
Ordinary cheviot tweeds are out of fa-
vor for spring suits owing to the mark-
ed demand for jerseys.

"LINGETTE"

Because of its possibilities for lingerie purposes, this is the name given to the
cloth illustrated here. It is made in three patterns — a wide stripe, a plain
ground and a narrow stripe. The lustre is permanent even after washing and
the goods are 36 inches wide. There are twelve shades in the color range.
— Shown by Fred. Buttkrfield & Company, Inc., New York.

OPENING DIRECT SELLING
BRANCHES

Hawthorn Mills, Car'eton Place, Ont.,
are opening up direct territorial selling
branches all over Canada instead of
agencies as formerly. When at all
possible, there will be showrooms in
connection, where the trade can see
model garments made of the fabrics
which the mill sells. In this way, mer-
chants will be able to obtain a better
idea of the styles into which the Haw-
thorn Mills materials may be made.

F. W. Miller is in charge of these
various branches and H. R. Henderson
is manager of the Ontario district sales
branch, which has just been opened in
the McKinnon Bldg, Toronto.

DRESS FABRICS

Dry Goods Review

Swiss Silk Goods in Canada

Silks Constitute Great Bulk of Her Export Trade to Canada —

Prices Steadily Increased From 1913 to 1920 — Prices Dropped

21.2 Per Cent. During First Six Months of 1921 as Compared

With Corresponding Months of 1920

AS SWISS SILKS are an important' factor to Canadian
trade, it will be of interest to the readers of Dry Goods
Review to study the following' article on the question of
Swiss silks in Canada. This article was written for Dry Goods
Review by the Swiss Consul General, Carl P. Huebseher, of
Montreal.

It would mean carrying coal to Newcastle should I attempt
to give Canadian importers of the dry goods branch, informa-
tion about their silk trade with Switzerland, as a great
number of them have been in continual touch with the Swiss
manufacturers since some thirty years.

The main bulk of Swiss export to Canada has indeed al-
ways consisted of silk goods, as the following figures from
Swiss statistics will show: (Swiss Frs. 5.19 = $1.00).

Swiss Silk Goods Exported
to Canada
(Ribbons and Silk in pieces only)

Total Swiss Exports
to Canada

1910
1911
1912
1913
1919
1920

9,97
7,69
15,19
16,63
20,38
62,92

million
million
million
million
million
million

Swiss Frs.

21,83 million

24,48 million

31,77 million

30,96 million

30,45 million

90,19 million

Swiss Frs.
Swiss Frs.
Swiss Frs.
Swiss Frs.
Swiss Frs.
Swiss Frs.

It appears from a comparison of the above figures with the
quantities of the silk goods exported to Canada that the
prices have steadily increased from 1913 to 1920, and it i3
interesting to see, for instance, that the 3059 quintaux of
silks (1 quintal = 100 kgs; 1 kg. = 2.2 lbs.) exported to
Canada in 1913 had a value of about 13 million francs, while
the only slightly greater quantity of the same goods exported
in 1920, namely, 3440 quintaux, had a value of more than
50 million francs. This explains the considerable increase of
the Swiss exports to Canada.

The year 1920 began, as far as the silk trade between Swit-
zerland and Canada is concerned, with sudd n price ad-
justments and it needed great effort on both sides to come

to understandings. Losses, which were frequent, caused a
number of smaller Canadian silk importers to stop pay-
ments. However, readjustments took place; Canadian buyers
were seen in Zurich and Basle as before, and if the trade is
slow it is partly because the labor conditions in Switzerland
as in other European countries, did not permit such wage re-
ductions as had been adopted in Canada.

So far the statistics for the first half year 1921, only, are
available. They give, however, very interesting information
regarding the silk trade if they are compared with the data
for the first half year 1920. Thus, were exported from Swit-
zerland to Canada:

First % Year 1920 First % Year 1921
Quantity in Value Quantity in Value
quintaux Francs quintaux Francs

Silk in pieces 2,239 31,766,697 1,130 12,613,000

Silk ribbons 345 6,446,317 105 1,972,000

Total 2,584 38,213,014 1,235 14,585,000

This shows that the exports from Switzerland to Canada
have greatly decreased.

We also find that the value of one quintal of silk in pieces
was:

For the first half year 1920—14,187 Franks, while
For the first half year 1921—11,162 Francs only.

Or, in other words, the prices of silk in pieces imported
from Switzerland into Canada have dropped 21.2'7<:.

A similar calculation for the prices of silk ribbons gives
the astonishing result that the price of one quintal for the
first half year, 1920, was 18,733 Francs, and for the first
half year, 1921, was 18,780 Francs, i.e., the prices of silk
ribbons imported from Switzerland into Canada have not
undergone any change since 1920.

CARL P. HUEBSCHER, L.L.D.,
Swiss Consul General.

Fine wool tweed cloths in the six patterns illustrated her . There are twenty-one color combinations in each pattern
and these are warranted fast. Shown by Kenwood Mills, Limited, Arnprior, Ont.

Dry Goods Reviei

DRESS FABRICS

Revival of Dressmaking in Spring and Summer
Promises a Record-breaking Wash-goods Season

Montreal Houses Say Demand is For Vivid Colors in Tub Fabrics

— Organdy Likely to Take the Lead — Many New Designs in

Voiles — Printed Batiste is Strong in New York — Demand for

Ginghams Likely to Create Shortage

WASH fabrics are occupying a
very large space in the wholesale
houses this month and buyers
state that business is decidedly good in
this line with orders coming in as fast
as others are shipped out. Both staple
and fancy lines are attracting wide-
spread attention as it is predicted that
the Spring and Summer of 1922 are
going to witness one of the biggest re-
vivals of dressmaking that has been
experienced in many years. Department
stores are planning to inaugurate home
sewing campaigns just as soon as the
usual sales and Winter rush is done,
and it will not be their fault if every
woman dees not make up her mind to
purchase a few yards of gayly checked
gingham or dotted Swiss and contrive
for herself a dainty Summer dress.

According to a leading Montreal
wholesale firm the greatest demand is
for vivid colors in tub fabrics, and they
enumerate the wanted shades in this se-
quence: cinnamon, shrimp, maise, French
pink, tomato, helio, seafoam green and
all white. The last named, however, will
rank possibly among the most popular
tone in all classes of fabrics and several
buyers have commented on the fact that
it looks like a "white Summer."
Organdy Retains Its Prestige

The queen of fabrics is undoubtedly
organdy, especially in the Swiss perman-
ent finish which is now obtainable at
prices greatly reduced from last year's
quotations. The hand embroidered or-
gandies are particularly lovely, since
they feature a very varied assortment
of dots, both small and large, as well
as dainty little figures, and these may
be obtained in contrasting colors or in
white on different shades including all
those above mentioned. It is impossible
to obtain the same effect in finish in
American made organdys and the Swiss
are still supreme in the manufacture
of this lovely Summer fabric, which is
unequalled for all purposes.

Dotted Swiss will show a decidedly
increised range of patterns and ons
Montreal wholesale house is showing
no fewer than nine different sizes
of dotted effects, not only in the usual
white dot but also in black and
colors woven on grounds of contrasting
tone. A big demand is anticipated for
the flocked dot tub fabric of either mus-
lin or voile which imitates the woven
dot so closely that it can scarcely be de-
tected even by close examination. Navy
blue muslins are especially smart when
flecked in white pin dots and should go
far in supplying the perennial demand

SAMPLES OF UNUSUAL SPRING
FABRICS

Fancy Raye or striped chiffon taffe-
tas shown for Spring and Summer
by Mark Fisher Sons and Co., of
Montreal. This silk has a black stripe
with which is combined a formal
nosegay motif in. a variety of colors,
chiefly rose and blue. This novel silk
will be largely used for frocks, mil-
linery and fancy work on account of
its suitability for reproducing the
modes of olden time ivhich are being
so widely revived.

for hot weather fabrics that will not
soil too quickly, at a low price.

New Designs In 1922 Voiles

Voiles show a complete transforma-
tion in the matter of desilgns. The vogue
for floral patterns seems to have dimin-
ished in a rather remarkable manner
and instead are to be found small neat
geometrical figures, plaid effects closely
resembling ginghaims and the ever dainty
flocked designs which this year imitate
chenille or wool, so fluffy and raised!
is the pattern. Group designs appear to
lead in popularity and small clusters of
dots are grouped in squares, ovals and
large all-over patterns, to resemble
beading and stitchery in white and
colors. The gingham patterns are the
newest and smartest of the collection,
particu^rly those in lattice checks and
over-checks with a ratine finish.

Crepette and ginghamette are two
very new wash fabrics for lingerie and
sheer frocks especially designed for
children's wear, which come in pastel
shades and white and feature shadowy
checks in self color. Cross barred mus-
lin is another leader in this class of
materials and shows a novel treatment
of Swiss embroidery in blue, pink or
black.

New York Demands Batiste

Printed batistes are predicted tj be
slated for one of the biggest seasons in
years, as New York has set its seal
of approval upon the dotted and checked
designs as especially appropriate for
Summer 1922. Having a crisp organdy
finish and coming in bright colors, these
batistes will make delightful little frocks
for almost any occasion. One line of
Joffre blue, checked in white, has a dot
in the centre of each check, providing a
most unusual effect when seen at a
distance.

There is a good demand for sprigged
dimities in pastel shades for the making
of kiddies' party dresses, and for neg-
ligees and lingerie. The new rose bud
patterns developed in palest yellow,
shell pink and baby blue are exquisite
and quite irrestible to feminine eyes.

The fad for sleeveless fr cks is said
to be by no means dead yet and the
coming Spring materials are providing
ample scope to feature new ways of
developing these useful and smart little
costumes. Ramie cloth and beach cloth
will be used in this way, while ratine is
back on the market in unusual and
arresting color effects. Bright colors

Con inued on page 112

DRESS FABRICS

Dry Goods Review

There is no doubt that tweeds are showing splendid promise for Spring and Summer. Suits, skirts, dresses and sporting
togs will be either homespun or tweed. Both stripes and checks are good though there will probably be more of the latter. The
striped pattern illustrated here is in blue and white, the check on the lower left is fawn and navy arui the one on the loner

right is black and white. — Shown BY DAVID W. ROSS, TORONTO.

Dry Goods Review

DRESS FABRICS

RETIRING R. M. A.

Continued from page 62
expressed the opinion that this should be
borne by the government as such inspec-
tion was in the interests of the peop'e.
Postage rates on mail order catalogues
was also taken up and it was suggested
that the government investigate the sub-
ject to ascertain the cost to the country
of this service which enabled the distri-
bution of merchandise under such cir-
cumstances as gave little opportunity
for competition by retailers. In giving
an argument for branch associations, Mr.
Watter , stated that the Eastern Ontario
and Ottawa District Ass'n had increas-
ed its membership to 442 this year and
had a surplus of $927 on hand.

Thursday's Session

The feature of the convention on
Thursday was the presentation to the
retiring president, B. W. Ziemann,
Preston. D. R. Clark, treasurer of the
Ontario association and an active work-
er in the Toronto grocers' section, in
making the presentation of a handsome
club bag, referred to the great interest
that Mr. Ziemann had taken in the work

of the association. He had been untiring
always in his activities on behalf of re-
tailers. His abilities of leadership, and
his advice had always been at the service
of the organization. For the past
twenty years he had given a great deal
of his time to the work, and it was
pleasing to know that with his retire-
ment from the office of president, he
was not ceasing to be as interested in
the work. It was fitting that his services
should be appreciated in some tangible
form and it was with a real sense of ap-
preciation of what Mr. Ziemann had
done, that he made the presentation.

The re iring president in expressing
his gratitude, declared that he had al-
ways tried to serve the best interests of
the retail merchants of Ontario and the
Dominion. He had enjoyed the work, and
he had formed friendships that would
endure as long as he lived. He had al-
ways had the co-operation of his fellow
officers, and while at times, the work
represented a thankless job, 'here were
compensating features. He would ever
be ready to serve, even though not as
president, the interests of the Retail-
ers' Association.

200 Eastern Ontario Retailers

Meet in Convention in Kingston

Large Delegation of Merchants Attend From
Ottawa — Retailers Want to Confer With Manu-
facturers in Fixing Resale Price — Banquet in the
Evening

KINGSTON, Jan. 17.— (Special)—
With upwards of two hundred
de egates in attendance, the
fourth annual convention of the Retail
Merchants' Association of Eastern On-
tario opened in the Y.M.C.A. hall this
afternoon at 4 o'clock. President Henry
Watters, Ottawa, presided. The Ot-
tawa delegation was the largest from
any single city, a party of forty mer-
chants coming from there. Mr. Wat-
ters was accompanied by the officers
and executive, including R. Craig,
Brockville, second vice-president; T.
W. Col, ins, Ottawa, treasurer; Alexan-
der Phillips, Ottawa, auditor; J. C.
Campbe'l, Ottawa, secy.; Mr. Beale, or-
ganizer; E. A. Stephens, president and
G. G. Crabtree secy., of the Ottawa
Branch. B. W. Ziemann, past president,
W. C. Miller, provincial secretary, Tor-
onto, Norman S. Jones, Hamilton, Clar-
ence A. J. Mil.er, Ottawa, were also in
attendance. Addresses of welcome were
given by Mayor S. S. Corbett on behalf
of the city of Kingston, and W. Y. Mills
on behalf of the Kingston branch.
President Watters replied on behalf of
the officers and thanked the Mayor and
President Mills of the local branch for
the warmth of the greeting which was
fu.ly reciprocated by all.

Resolutions Passed

During the afternoon session, two re-
solutions were passed. One resolution
asked the Provincial Legislature to pass

an act giving an interpretation to define
all trade sections. The other resolution
asked that the Board be given power to
confer with all manufacturers who fix
the retail seLing prices of standard
goods.

Banquet in the Evening

Tonight's banquet tendered the dele-
gates by the local retail merchants was
marked by an eloquent appeal from
Major-General MacDonnell, commandant
of the Royal Mi.itary College, for a
United Canada. Over one hundred
business men sat down to the Banquet.
W. Y. Mills, president of the local
branch of the Retail Merchants' Associa-
tion, presided, and the speakers includ-
ed Major-General MacDonnell, who pro-
posed the toast to "Canada" and which
was responded to by Brigadier-General

A. E. Ross. President Watters gave an
excel. ent address on the principles of
the Retail Merchants' Association, show-
ing the enormous amount of work ac-
complished during the past two years.
The toast to the visitors was proposed
by R. J. Rogers, and responded to by

B. W. Ziemann, W. C. Miller and Bry-
and White, Ottawa, and Major Corbett,
Kingston. The business session will be
continued on Wednesday.

SKIRTINGS WILL BE STRONG

A Toronto manufacturer of skirtings
declares that these will be as strong as
ever in the Spring, with this deference —
stripes will share honors with checks.
Instead of 85 per cent, stripes and 15
per cent checks as it was last Fall, the
proportion will be fifty or sixty per
cent, checks and the remainder stripes.
Black ami white will be worn but there
are rival colors in the field. Fawns and
navys in combination are the favorites.
There will be skirtings with fawn
grounds and navy stripes or checks,
and those with navy grounds and fawn
stripes or checks. The white, in the
black and white materials, will be a
little more prominent than the black.
High-colored Homespuns

Already, women planning trips to the
South, are causing quite a flurry in
homespuns. They are choosing the
very brightest shades in single colors
and in combination. All the yellow, rose
and blue tones are in tiemand. One
wholesale house at least, is carrying bags
to be worn with suits or gowns of this
material. They are homespun, too, and
are sold to the retailer, lined or unlined,
as he prefers. Some of them are plain
and others have floral or conventional
designs after the fashion of those made
by hand last season. The wholesale
trade is already finding a good market
in homespuns because of the publicity
it gets through these handbags.

The sport and Summer suits this
season, will be made up with contrast-
ing materials. Sometimes the skirt will
be plain and the coat striped or checked.
Again these will be reversed. The more
conservative models show a plain color
for both skirt and coat with collar and
cuffs of a small checked pattern. What-
ever the choice, the chief note will be
the high color. In fact, Miss Springtime
will walk down the main streets of our
towns in a glory of shades resembling
a veritable rainbow.

From Beer, one hears predictions of
short paletot suits, made of wool crepe
or popeline in gray and in beige. — From
Women's Wear, N. Y.

SALESWOMEN OF WINNIPEG
ORGANIZE

Organization of a Retail Saleswomen's
association, claimed to be the first venture
of its kind in Canada was effected at a meet-
ing of Winnipeg saleswomen. A represent-
ative number of women, from the leading
business houses in that city, were present,
and heartily endorsed the objects of the
association, and will co-operate to the fullest
extent with the men in their educational
work. Arrangements have been made to
have J. T. Knox, of Cleveland, Ohio, de-
liver a course of short lectures in salesman-
ship and business efficiency in the science
theatre of Manitoba university, on Jan. 31,
and Feb. 1 and 2.

A directorate composed of the following
officers was elected: Misses A. Parker,
F. O'Grady, L. Livingstone, F. Miles, F.
Smith, of the Hudson 's Bay Company ; Misses
M. Smith, E. Wright, M. C. McElivee, I.
Nichols, of J. Robinson & Co; Miss K. Brad-
shaw and Miss E. Garrick, of Holt Renfrew;
Mrs. G. Mcllveen and Miss L. Gunn, of
Hollingsworth Limited.

DRESS FABRICS

Dry Goods Review

NOW READY

New lines for the new season

SILKS LIMITED
RIBBONS LIMITED
NOVELTIES LIMITED
DRESS FABRICS LIMITED

Your mail orders given prompt attention. Salesmen are now on the road with our
complete lines. Buyers while in the city are asked to call and see our splendid
range of merchandise.

MONTREAL

TORONTO

WINNIPEG

y/w/W/W/z/W/^^^^

It's Winter by the calendar
but Spring in our Showroom

XlfE'VE assembled a most wonderful array of Kimonas and
' ' Lingerie for our Spring line — you really can't appreciate
just how fine they are until you see them.
We've spent many thoughtful hours on the matter of ma-
terials, workmanship and attractiveness and what will, we
are sure, interest you most — is the price.

Kimonas

Breakfast Gowns
Combing Jackets
Chemise
Night Gowns

Bloomers
Underskirts
Camisoles
Boudoir Cars

The Lingerie Company

Manufacturers

80-82 Wellington St., West
Toronto

See us while in Toronto at the Textile Exhibition

Dry Goods Review

DRESS FABRICS

This is the season of the year when

WHITE GOODS

The ultimate choice of
the PRUdent housewife

are in the greatest demand. Housewives are
now taking stock of their sheets and pillow
cases, towels, counterpanes, underwear and
other materials and are preparing for the
annual renewals.

Take an inventory now of your needs — take
a census of the white goods on your shelves.
Then lay in a plentiful supply of " Prue
Cottons " and display them on your counters
and in your windows. They are the best —
price for price, and therefore the cheapest —
quality for quality.

They are made in Canada t> 3? Canadians

DOMINION TEXTILE COMPANY LIMITED

MONTREAL

TORONTO

WINNIPEG

DRESS FABRICS

Dry Goods Review

Greenshields Limited

Woollen Department

We wish to announce to the trade that our Spring line of
Woollens is now in stock for your inspection. Our range
having been supplemented by the stock of Messrs. Gault
Bros., Ltd., we are now in a position to deliver more prompt-
ly and satisfactorily than we have been for some time past.

The range consists of Fancy and Staple Suitings in Wor-
steds and Tweeds from the best British Manufacturers also
a splendid range of Serges including "Belwarps."

We also carry a full line of newest fabrics in Ladies' Coat-
ings, Skirtings and Sport Suitings,

"If you can't get it anywhere else you can get it here."

GREENSHIELDS LIMITED

"The Hub of the Dry Goods Trade in Canada!'

17 Victoria Square Montreal

Sales Rooms from the Atlantic to the Pacific

Dry Goods Review

DRESS FABRICS

Dress (Soods

SPRING 1922.

We are showing a large range of exclusive Novelty designs in Cos-
tume and Skirt Cloths including the following: —

COLORS (All Wool)
SERGES

TRICOTINES
GABARDINES

JASMINE POIRET TWILLS
SATIN DUCHESS
BROAD CLOTHS

BLACKS
CREPE ROYAL
SAN TOY

CASHMERES

PERMETTE
SILKWARP HENRIETTA
CREPE DE CHINE

The leading shades for SPRING are SAND — ROSE — TAUPE —
ELEPHANT — REINDEER — KANGAROO — KING FISHER —
PEKIN — TOBACCO — WINE — NAVY and BLACK.

We have also a complete stock of FRENCH and BRITISH all
wool Dress Goods in all colors in the following lines — Coating
and Botany Serge, Poplins, Ottomans, Nun's Veilings, All Wool
Cashmeres, Taffetas, Wool Crepes, Tunis Crepes, Habit Cloth,
Tricotines, Gabardines, Striped and Plain Armures, Fancy Skirt-
ings, Checks and Stripes.

GREENSHIELDS LIMITED

"The Hub of the Dry Goods Trade in Canada."

17 Victoria Square Montreal

Sales Rooms from the Atlantic to the Pacific

^..il

DRESS FABRICS

Dry Goods Review

///'/ ////

With a Great
1Q21 Record

in Back of us*

Dry Goods Review

MILLINERY

101

Novelties Seen in Spring Trimmings

Mother of Pearl Turns Out to Be Shell of Humble Snail— Calci-

mined Ostrich — Paris Novelties to be Introduced Later in Season

• — The Place for the Trimmings Indefinite — Trade Looks for

Good Season

THERE is a decided note of novel-
ty about the mil.inery trimmings
which are being exploited by Mon-
treal designers for early Spring millin-
ery. During the course of several vi-
sits to the different show rooms Dry
Goods Review was impressed with the
fact, in this connection at least, "that
things are not what they seem," to quote
the well known poem. One suffers a
considerable shock to discover that the
delicately tinted bits of mother of pearl
which are used in such profusion to
form clusters of flowers or studded like
beads here and there, are nothing more
or less than the shell of the humble
snail, but such we are assured is the
case. Snail shells therefore may be
seen upon some of the season's smart-
est hats and add not a little to their
distinction, being sponsored by no less
an authority than Lanvin of Paris.

But designers profess to believe that
there never was such a spring for lav-
ish use of flowers and fruit as the
spring of 1922, and bring forth num-
berless charming creations which are
nothing but bouquets ablaze with color.

Next to Lowers in popularity we find
fruits calling for attention, including
grapes, cherries, gooseberries and cur-
rants, cleverly reproduced in either
black or natural colors and arranged
in the most realistic clusters imaginable.
A very frequent trimming on some hats
is one Large blossom in a flame or rose
shade with which is placed a cluster of
one of these fruits in black or dark
blue.

"Calcimined" Ostrich for Spring

Going still further afield in the search
for novelty in trimmings we find the de-
signers using all sorts of feather novel-
ties which are scarcely recognizable in
their new form. Calcimined ostrich is
well spoken of and is nothing more or
less than "whitewash" applied to the
quill of the ostrich, making a somewhat
bizarre effect but none the less interest-
ing. Many designers comment particul-
arly on the so called "plastered" feath-
ers which mean precisely the same
thing. Pasted feathers arranged in fiat
effects and in bright colors are also
good, while clipped ostrich pompoms are
frequently used with glycerined ostrich
in brim trimmings. Glycerined ostrich
will be somewhat used alone but only in
the new "twisted tail" arrangement that
gives a stiff appearance when upright
but when used in pairs in a side trim-
ming gives the drooping effect. Curled
quills are used for the tailored type of
hat and another type of novelty pom-
pom appears with the tips of the feath-
ers radiating outwards instead of being

caught together in the centre as a stem.
The tips are stripped to form points.
Lacquered feathers are well liked) too,
especially in the red shades.

Beads of All Sorts

Closely allied to the vogue for tiny
sheLs as hat trimmings will be found
beads of all sorts, which will he shown
as spring advances. Wooden beads in
particular are lavishly used in different
sizes, in strings and entire cabochons,
or singly upon brims or wherever a
place can be found' for them. There are
white beads, jet, g'.ass and steel varie-
ties, long and fancy shaped beads, etc.
Among the colors for beads, red and
crange seem to be most favored.

Ribbons will be extensively used, eith-
er pleated into smart cocades or else
tied in dashing bows. Double faced rib-
bons and corded varieties will lead in
popularity. The treatment of very nar-
row ribbons is novel, as rosettes or flat
flower effects are usually made and
sewn on the hat by the edge only, so
that the ribbon stands out free. Wide
satin ribbons are cleverly used to drape
matrons' turbans, lending a more grace-
ful appearance to the hat than could be
obtained by the use of fabric alone.

What Paris is Using

As the season advances there will be
introduced some of the novelties which
Paris is sponsoring at present, such as
tinfoil trimming or "etain," parrots in
bright green or red, "match sticks"
which are small spikes tipped with a
bright bead, sealing wax flowers and
opalescent motifs.

Among the more elaborate models no-
ticed in preparation for the spring open-
ings which will occur around the end
of February was a hat of visca all-over
of deep brown and metallic threads
trimmed with silk piping and a ribbon
card. Another was of checked visca
braid made very soft and pliable as
though made of fabric. Hair cloth ap-
pears quite frequently in models of dif-
ferent colors, such as one noticed of

brown designed in the shape of a small
tunban with two ribbon loops crossed
on the top.

No Definite Position for Trim

None of the designers have yet agreed
as to where the trimming definite. y be-
longs on the spring hat. It is still too
early to predict with sureness, but as
Paris has decreed high trimmings and
New York is partial to dro'oping ef-
fects, it may be safe to say that each
type of hat will be a law to itself.

There is an ever increasing interest
in sports hats, especially as an early
season item. Braids introducing wooj
and straw, all wool braids and com-
binations of silk fabrics and braids are
most prominent.

A great deal has been done with an-
gora braid and angora hair braid will
undoubtedly become more generally pop-
ular in the near future for sports hats.
Trade is Confident of Successful Season

There is a feeling of confidence mani-
fest throughout the millinery trade, con-
fidence that the advancing spring sea-
son will find business conditions as close
to normal as they have desired them,
confidence that is based upon the first
facts obtainable relative to the spring
demand. While this feeling has by no
means led the manufacturers and im-
porters of millinery to indulge in the
reckless expenditures of war time pros-
perity, it has nevertheless called them to
work harder than ever in their prepara-
tions for the advancing season, in the
sincere be'ief that values will find a
ready market. Reluctance on the part
of the retailer to place orders in the
quantities that are asked by over an-
xious salesmen is no longer character-
ized in the wholesale trade as a "buyers'
strike" but the new attitude is rather
that any reluctance in ordering is a
sign that the customer is a sane and
conservative buyer and one who is prob-
ably in a better financial position than
others who place more generously.

Sane but not too conservative buying
policies are admirable assets to the mil-
linery buyer this season.

STARTS EDUCATIONAL COURSE

Manchester, Robertson, Allison, Ltd. of
St. John, N. B. have recently inaugurated
an educational course for all its employes
which will cover a period of one year and give
a more thorough knowledge of salesmanship.
The course has been inaugurated as tending
towards better service for the customer and
greater interest and appreciation on the part
of the employe. In its initial stages it has
been very well received and very successful.

102

MILLINERY

Dry Goods R&view

Fabric Combinations for Easter

Extreme Diversity of Styles Characterizes Spring Millinery —

Shapes, Fabrics and Colors Give Promise of Gradual Changes —

Horse Hair Lavishly Used — Blocked Shapes Quiet

The year's at the spring,
The spring's at the morn,
The morning's at seven,
The hilltop's dew-pearled;
The lark's on the wing,
The snail's on the thorn,
God's in his heaven,
All's right with the world.

Browning.

WITH the dates for the whole-
sale millinery openings in Mon-
treal still unsettled, there is
little really definite information as to
what will he worn when once the
Spring season opens. However, there
is plenty of news to be gathered in the
differe.it workrooms where nimble fin-
gers are now busily employed in mak-
ing up the samples for the Easter
trade.

Interviews with leading millinery de-
signers bring out the fact that hats in
fabric combinations or fancy braids will
predominate this season. But apart
from that no one knows what will be
worn because there is something new
being introduced every week in New
York and the consumer is adopting
the attitude of buying simply what
she likes, not what is shown in great
quantity, which attitude is creating a
difficult situation for 'buyer and die-
signer alike. The average woman to-
day walks into a millinery department
and 'asks, "What haive you new 'to-
day?" and if she calls a week later
she repeats the same question. It is
all a question of having something for
everyone and not too much of anything.

Individuality therefore may be taken
as the keynote of the Spring season as
local millinery designers see it and
they point to the lack of uniformity in
styles to corroborate this fact. How-
ever, while turbans and toques will
lead as always, a feeling is expressed
that shapes will be a trifle more un-
usual, especially regarding the direction
and angle which the 'brims take. At
the present moment the demand is new
for "off the face" shapes but the new
styles coming in each week from New
York show cloche and poke outlines
fairly frequently. The crowns in all
cases are soft and supple, with either
sectional construction or a coronet effect.
A few new sihapes are entirely briimless
and allow a good opportunity for feat-
uring flower appliques of which many
little hats are entirely constructed.

To return to the fabric of the hat
itself, there will he something for every
taste and every costume from present

"CANNA"

Is the new color which is used effective-
ly o7i this smart black satin model yith
turned up brim,. The scrolls of ribbon
are an unusual trimming, the color note
beiyig merely suggested by the inter-
weaving of Canna hued threads with
black. The crown is quite soft. Hat from
Debenham's (Canada) Ltd., Montrea'.

indications. Throughout the rest of
February and early March satin hats
will of course hold sway, particularly
in the heavy cire satins, shoe satins, and
baronet eires developed in black and the
wood shades. Failles are also employed
to a considerable extent. With the ad-
vent of April, and Easter which falls
upon the 16th, just at the right time
to introduce mi'linery of a real Spring-
like character, the novelty braids will
be seen in prolusion.

The great demand is for novelties of
all sorts, particularly for the new hair
cloth or horse-hair in black and in a
bigh glossy finish. Cellophane allovers
in a finely woven effect, novelty mix-
tures of wool and silk, silk metalasse,
Gros de Londres, allover Visca and em-
broidered Cantons are all expected to
be popular. Then there are two new
silk fabrics which will be lavishly used
in combination with fancy braids. These
are pebbled satin and creponge. The
former is a heavy satin with a pebbled
surface and a cire finish, and the latter
is a knitted silk with a ratine surface
one side and a smooth back. Used with
these new allovers will be found visca
and straw braids, cellophane satin
braids and wool mixtures. Very often
the crowns are made of the braids while

the brims are covered in the fancy all-
over. When this is the case the crowns
are frequently cleverly devised to imi-
tate draped effects gathered into each
side, or else the braids are interwoven
in such a way as to combine several
tones or color effects.

Mohair is spoken of as a certainty
for early summer wear and it is exten-
sively employed now to veil flower
brims on small hats which might ap-
pear too summery otheiwise. The trans-
parent effects are more truly summer-
like in character than are fabric hats
and it is not expected that they will
suffer the same eclipse which overtook
them last Summer.

So far not a word is being said
about blocked shapes although the
usual number of sailor hats will be
featured in early Spring. Rough straws
will predominate with smart tailored
bows, but for the most part designers
are maintaining a discreet silence upon
the subject of entirely blocked hats.

The colors for Spring are quite charm-
ing and will reflect a desire to get
away from too much use of black for
a few months at least. Brown is spoken
of in the lighter wood shades on ac-
count of the number of costumes in
heather mixtures or deer shades that
are being worn; periwinkle blue is an-
other very lovely shade universally be-
coming to blue-eyed people, whether
fair or dark, as it is not pronounced
but rather faintly toned down with a
touch of grey. Canna, pumpkin, bonfire,
beige and poppy red run the gauntlet of
wara shades and it is said that there
will be a call for grey later on.

Owing to the lavish use of flowers to
form entire brims on Spring hats the
contrasting fabric used in the costruc-
tion of the hat proper will of course be
subdued in tone to show up in better
effect. Small hat flower petals are like-
wise used singly applied in overlapping
effect and centred by beads, to form a
multicolored brim facing.

In the general enthusiasm over color-
ful effects in millinery, it must not be
forgotten that the all black hat has a
distinct place in every wardrobe and
not only for matrons but for the young
girl as well. Among the latter styles
for older women are shown exception-
ally striking models of black hair
cloth in a high draped effect in com-
bination with Canton crepe and trimmed
with fruit in shaded effects. Grapes
will be frequently seen in conjunction
with toques of haircloth in matrons'
hats.

Dry Goods Review

MILLINERY

103

First Showings Bring Business

New York Behind in Deliveries to Canadian Houses

— Report of First Showings Encouraging — Three

Favorites in Ready To Wear — Late News of New

York Hat Showings

MILLINERY buyers are very
much enthused with what New
York had shown them this spring.
They say that their customers will have
to buy just ais vhey had to, when they
saw the alluring models in the wholesale
houses of the metropolis. The difficulty
will be in getting the merchandise over
at the usual time. New York is very
much behind this year and, although
some Toronto buyers have had their or-
ders in for two or three weeks, many of
the samples they require have not yet
reached here.

Very few travelers have gone out but
those who are on the road, are sending
in very good reports. One sa.esman who
has reached Edmonton with thirty-five
of the first sample hats, has sent in or-
ders for every one of these numbers.
The manager of one house says, however,
that he will require brisk business all
this season to counteract the losses of
the slack pre-Christmas period.

Three Favorites in Ready-to-Wears

One Toronto manufacturer has brought
over three hats which, he says will cover
the requirements for the first spring
hats. One is a five-end Milan in canna
red, the straw sti:ched with white
thread. This is done to give the two-
toned effect which is being carried into
all the smartest designs in millinery.
When blue or black s.raw is used, the
contrast effected with the white thread
is even better.

The second mode! has a crown of crepe
de chine with an off-the-face briim of
mohair braid arranged to give the tubu-
lar effect which is the most used design
in trimming this year. Mohair lends it-
self best to this shape because of its
wiry nature and for that reason it is
seen on almost every type of hat shown.

The third hat is a combination of taf-
feta and cellophane s raw. The crown
is of taffeta and the whole brim of ir-
idescent black celophane.

That staple hats in ready-to-wear are
to be worn very considerably, is evident
from the large numbers of orders com-
ing for all the sailor and turban s raws
which have been shown. One manufac-
turer dec'ares that there will be enough
business to keep his house working all
spring without stressing the novelty
numbers which are coming out every
week.

New York is Talking Horse-hair

Next f o flowers, the American whole-
sale houses are stressing horse-hair
most of all. This resembles the old-
fashioned material used on the furniture
of a generation ago, except that it is
very fine. No doubt much of the popu-
larity which horse-hair is enjoying, is

due to its shiny appearance, because
anything which is iridescent or glazed
wi 1 sell, whether it is straw, satin or
silk.

Designers who have just returned
from Paris, say that in tailored models,
Frenchwomen prefer plain hats. They
choose allover chapeaux of cellophane,
cired materials or horsehair and they
put nothing else on them. In New York
this fad is considered a little severe, so
milliners are placing ornaments on most
of their creations.

Quite in keeping with the vogue for
glistening and iridescent materials, is
the popularity of the metal-edged ribbon.
Wonderful little ribbons of all colors and
widths have edges of gold-colored
metal, which stand out in splendid con-
trast against the bright cired ha^s. These
ribbons very often hang on the left side
this season.

Irregular brims are growing in favor
as the season advances, particularly
with the hats which have no trimming.
The yellows are probably the best colors
ju&t now but the next few weeks will
find a call for canna, mahogany or terra,
bonfire, tile blue, and perwinkle blue.
The last color is expected to outdo al'
the other blues in summer millinery.

Merchant's Will

Makes Large Gifts

Late Thomas Ritchie Makes Many

Generous Bequests— $40,000

To Nurses' Home

The late Thomas Ritchie, of Belh-
ville, left an estate of $126,547.64,
among the principal items being: life
insurance, $7,665.48; stocks, $39,000;
bonds, $21,268.12; residential property
(Bridge and John Streets, Belleville),
$10,000; and the store property at 46
and 47 west side of Frcnt Street, valued
at $40,000. The bonds included $10,000
in Victory b nds, $6,000 debenture
bonds of Fort William, and $5,000 of
the Canada Bread Co. His chief stock
holdings included 50 preferred shares
of' the Ritchie Co. of $500 each, and
10 preferred shares of Canada Cement
Co., $900.

To Mary Ritchie, his wife, are be-
queathed the household goods and fur-
niture. In addition she is given the
rent of the store building and the in-
come frcm investment of the life in-
surance. Forty thousand dollars is
bequeathed to the Belleville Women's
Christian Association, according to the
will but it must be used in the erection

of a nurses' home in connection with
the hospital. After the death of his
wife and after the sale of the store
building shall have been made by the
trustees, the will directs the trustees
to pay the further sum of $20,000 to
the Women's Christian Association for
extending the uses of the hospital.

Other Extensive Legacies

The $5,000 legacy to the Children's
Aid is in trust, to be invested for in-
come purposes in assisting in the pro-
curing of suitable clothing for the
wards of the Children's Aid upon their
leaving the Shelter to go to foster
homes. A. second fiegacy of $10;000
to be invested by the Children's Aid
Society, the income therefrom to be
used to assist in the work of the
Society. Other bequests include: Albert
College, a legacy of $5,000 and $5,000
more after the death of Mrs. Ritchie
and the disposal of the store property;
C. M. Reid and the city of Belleville,
$7,000 in trust, to invest, and use the
income from such investment to assist
in the expense of instructors for small
children in the public playgrounds in
East and West Belleville, the same as
Mr. Ritchie had d.ne for some little
time. A further legacy to the city in
this connection is $5,000. Miss Jessie
Hay, nurse, receives $1,000; Joseph
Baker, of St. Ola, Ont., $500 and fish-
ing tackle, boats, guns, etc.; to each —
Frank P. Thompson, James Henry
Bryant, Hector Poste, James Buchanan,
Samuel Maguire and Jane Bishop are
left two common shares of the Ritchie
Company on c mpletion of three years'
further association with the Ritchie
Company. Fourteen employees of the
company will receive a legacy of $100
each; the:e have bean employed for fcha
year prior to his death. The residiue
is divisible .' mong the Women's Chris-
tian Association, Albert C liege, the
Children's Aid Society, the city of Belle-
ville, Murie', Marjorie and Isabelle
Gregg, giandnieces and niece of Mrs.
Ritchie, and Miss Bessie Stewart.

A SUGGESTION
To the Editor of Dry Goods Review
Dear Sir: —

At this season of the year when
most merchants are invoicing their
stocks, we find many articles which
are unsalable, because they are out
of style or shop-worn. They are only
an expense to keep insured and they
take up valuable space.

My practice is to sort these out
and send them to the Salvation
Army or some provident association
in the large cities where they can
always be used for the alleviation
of suffering among the poor.
Yours very truly,
A. L. Potter

Independence, Kansas
U. S. A.

104

MILLINERY

Dry Goods Review

Firm Omits Formal Opening

The Arcade of Hamilton Dispensed With Its For-
mal Opening in Millinery And Secured Better
Business — Getting Rid of the Idea of a Selected
List of Customers — The Invitation — Tried It In
Ready-To-Wear

SPRING and fall openings are two
important functions in the life of the
retail store. Great preparations at
considerable cost are gone to to make
this a successful as well as a profitable
event in these two important seasons of
the year. The store puts on its "best
bib and tucker," so to speak, as an in-
ducement to its friends to see the
newest creations for milady in the mil-
linery world. Elaborate displays are
staged throughout the store, both interi-
or and exterior. It costs a lot of money.
And then there are many stores that
have an advance show for a selected
list of patrons who might be expected to
make early selections of the finest and
most expensive hats of the whole show.
They are on the "inner circle" of the
store's friends; they have first choice
and they take advantage of it, no doubt.
But what of those who are not on the
selected list? who do not come in on
the first show?

The Arcade, Hamilton.

These are questions which agitated the
minds of the directors of The Arcade,
Hamilton, Ontario. So they decided to
try out a season without a formal show-
ing, though they had no intention of al-
lowing it to be thought that they did not
have the best they could get in millin-
ery for their customers. What they
wanted to get rid of, if they could with-
out harm to the store's business, was a
good deal of expense at a time when it
became necessary to cut down the over-
head, to get rid of the idea in many peo-
ple's minds that they had a favored list
of customers whose requirements were
more to them than the requirements of
other people — and, at the same time, ge
their usual business in fall hats, per-
haps increase it.

How it Was Done

According to J. P. Whelan, Merchand-
ise Manager of The Arcade, the kind of
opening they had in the fall of 1921 was
the best they had ever had in that city.
They did not call it an opening, for they
wanted to get away from the idea of
formalism connected with the usual
spring and fall displays. They sent out
a letter which had the addresses of their
French and English offices on it invit-
ing attendance at their millinery de-
partment. This letter was sent to their
FULL MAILING LIST, not a selected
list, and it was the fullest list they
could get. They did not overlook any
one. The letter follows: —

Chapeau Francais.

If you would be always distingue
in dress without being ultra, it is

rnot necessary to consider above all
. things the style of one's hat?

And are there to-day a.iy among
les elites who do not prefer les
chapeaux francais when they can
be procured at prices which are
not extravagants?
And Madame, Mademoiselle, what
chapeaux so chic as those of Maria
Guy, Leotine, Jenny, Schwalbe,
Francis, Louison or Evelya Varon?

Truly, wiih one of these creations
you may possess un charme fran-
cais.

Late French models and novel-
ties are now ready and you are
cordially invited to visit our show
room for a pre-opening inspection
of this the largest assortment of
Paris and New York hats ever
shown in Hamilton. The hats will
not be on public display. You will
kindly ask to be shown these ex-
clusive models.

. THE ARCADE LIMITED.

Did Same With Ready-to-Wear

Mr. Whelan stated to Dry Goods Re-
view that the plan was highly success-
ful and that they had done 'he best
business in their millinery department
as a result of this kind of an effort
that they had ever done. He felt that
it had accomplished its purpose in many
respects and that it had rid their friends
of any impression they might have had
that there was a selected list of people
who had the first chance at the very
best creations they could gather from
the millinery world for their customers.

The same plan was worked out in con-
nection with heir ready-to-wear depart-
ment and with the same satisfactory re
suits to them.

OGILVY'S CHRISTMAS PARTY

On December 29 a large party of em-
ployees of the Jas. A. Ogilvy's Limited,
of Montreal, and their friends gathered
on the furniture floor for their annual
Christmas party. A very lively evening
was planned with action every minute
of the time. First of all there was a
concert, with songs, etc., drawn from
store talent and interspersed by many
of the favorite community songs which
were sung with great zest by the gath-
ering. A well put on play by members
of the staff, entitled, "Professor Love-
bird's Matrimonial Agency," was one of
the features of the evening. The draw-
ing for presents and the bean guessing
contest were very popular. Much mer-
riment was introduced during the dances
with paper hatsi and balloons. Light re-
freshments were served during the ev-
ening.

Optimistic Note

Is Sounded

J. W. Bundy Reviews Conditions for

Wholesale Dry Goods Section Board

of Trade

Reviewing conditions in the Dry Goods
trade during the year 1921, J. W. Bundy
of Cockburn & Bundy Ltd., of Toronto,
in reporting to the Wholesale Dry Goods
section of the Board of Trade sounded an
optimistic note for the year 1922. Two
events of world interest were cited as
indicators that better times were in store
for Canadian business men — the Wash-
ington conference and the righting of the
exchange rate between Canada and the
United States. Mr. Bundy's report was
as follows: —

"In reviewing generally wholesale dry
goods trade for the past year, we cannot
get away from the fact that, owing to
world-wide conditions, it has been a year
of commercial disturbance, a year of
unusual anxiety and concern on the part
of all branches of the trade.

The fact that throughout Canada over
two thousand commercial failures have
occurred speaks for itself.

The unprecedented drop in prices,
fluctuations of exchange, failure of crops
in the west, are largely responsible for
the present depression.

The Department of Finance shows a
decrease in Customs Revenue amounting
to over $55,000,000 for nine months end-
ing November 30th.

For the final months of the year, re-
ports on the whole show expansion and
greater activity in the manufacturing of
textile products; cottons, silk and rib-
bons show an upward tendency.

The Maritime provinces report in-
creases.

In Ontario, as in Quebec, there were
local fluctuations with a net increase in
employment.

At Toronto, employment in the textile
industries, on the whole, was maintained
at the September level.

Montreal textile factories indicate
greater activity. On the whole the fi-
nancial outlook looks brighter and a spir-
it of optimism prevails. Exchange rates
show an improvement in the value of
the pound sterling.

The important place that the Wash-
ington conference on the limitation of
armaments occupies in restoring normal
conditions is worthy of mention. Lessen-
ed expenditure on armaments, lessened
taxation, and a general agreement be-
tween the powers will do much toward
establishing confidence and credit."

At a formal display of early summer hats
to be made in New York shorty one manu-
facturer is planning to use manneouins of
hand-painted plaster of paris. These will
be miniatures of the futuristic type.

Dry Goods Review

MILLINERY

105

PARIS DEGREES RIOT

Continued from page 100
When feather trimmings are employ-
ed outside of the quills spoken of above,
they usually take the form of heavy
drenched ostrich or clipped pompoms.
Some of the flat high colored ostrich
tips are also seen.

Little in All Straw

Nearly all the French hats introduce
fabrics along with straw. Only in
?traw braids do the Paris designers
work with straw alone. They say that
the soft hats appeal to women more
than ever.

For sports wear there is the hat of
masculine lines with stiff quills, narrow
ribbon and there is the small shape
fitting very close to the head. Most of
the sports hats are worn well down
over the eyes and are made supple and
without ornament. The leading colors
are used in this type as well as in the
dress hats. In fact all the shades men-
tioned in the cable despatches arei seen;
cherry red), citron, wood tones, bright
blues of royal cast and passot shades
are among the mcst prominent.

Novelty Trimmings

There has been a sudden demand
for the new feather trimming known
as biot which is either Chinese goose
or duck quills. These biot feathers are
placed usually in front. They droop
from the top of an allover turban, in a
veiry effective way. There is a scarcity
of these in the market at present which
no one seeims to be able to fill with
feathers of American birds.

In London there is vogue for tinting
and handpainting in headdress. One
designer is making flowers of heavy
silk, painted in oils by a special process,
which renders them waterproof and
durable. Wreaths of these flowers
painted in shades of pink, green, orange,
lemon and blue are combined. Painted
cloth and gold and all kinds of metal
cloth are used for this work.

Both Paris and London are favoring
the new tricorne shape. Out of seven
sample hats sent over by as many
French designers five were on the tri-
corne order. Many of them are almost
round with only the brim edge suggest-
ing the tricorne, while others are dis-
tinctly pointed. This shape, Toronto
milliners say, is particularly good when
pendant ornaments or loose hanging
ones are used for trimming.

Early Spring Small Shapes

Toronto Houses Are Expecting Big Season — Lead-
ing Shades Will Be Browns, Purples, Blacks And
Some Bright Shades — Many Beautiful Trimmings
To Be Shown.

LJtA_ i

The earliest straw hat season on record
has opened in Los Angeles. Women are
buying flower trimmed straws originally de-
signed for late March and April. This may
mean, that, although the hats shown in the
northern states and in Canada are usually
combinations of straw and silk, the all-straw
season may come here very quickly — prob-
ably by the middle of March.

BUYERS for millinery houses are
about the busiest people in Toronto
these days. Most of them have
returned from their trips to New York
and a few are back from Paris. They
are looking for the biggest spring sea-
son this year that Toronto has ever
known. Fall hats came in so early that
milliners and their patrons are quite
ready for spring modes and even in the
small towns, women are beginning to
ask for chapeaux with touches of straw.
Wholesale millinery houses say that
the leading shades for the first two
months this year will be: all the brown
tones, the purples, black and a few of the
bright shades, the most prominent of
which will be silver, gold and the reds.
With the March winds and the Easter
suits, will come several grey shades, the
blues, and black and white. There will
be a note of color on all the hats for
late spring. May and June will bring
in the bright tones, the strongest of
which will be, raspberry, orange, hya-
cinth blue and Chinese green. The all-
black and the all-white will be worn as
well.

Small Shapes for a While

For the Canadian trade, the small
shapes will be favorites until early in
April, most millinery importers believe.
Draped toques and turbans which
are high in front will have as their ri-
vals the pokes, although of the two, the
former will prevail. One manufacturer
remarked to Dry Goods Review that the
prevalence of the off-the-face hat in al-
most all styles was rather remarkable,
since it has been a favorite so long.
Soft-top crowns and the balloon crowns
will be good.

Dress occasions will see the cavalier
hats and hats with slashed brims. June
weddings will favor Gainsborough and
Romney hats in the large shapes.

Trimmings and Materials Varied

There is a difference of opinion as to
what the leading materials will be but
all of the Toronto wholesale houses are
agreed on the following: visca straw, es-
pecially the all-over visca, is being shown
for immediate business and it is a safe
venture for the whole season. Every
kind of satin has many devotees. The
high-lustred satin in both the baronette
and the plain material is perhaps seen
most of all. Many materials are being
cered this season, because of the demand
for lustre. Baronette satin responds
very readily to this cering process and
is therefore used for the most part on
the first models which have come in
from New York. Allover jet is very
good, crown and brim being covered with
a fabric of these beads.

Georgette and Canton crepe is used

m combination with visca or faille. Hair-
cloth is declared by one wholesale house
to be One of the best materials for the
whole season.

Beautiful Trimmings on the Market

The novelty houses are making up
some lovely ornaments to attract millin-
ers this spring. It promises to be a year
when almost every trimming that has
been worn in other seasons, will make
good. Prices too, are very favorable as
millinery accessory firms believe that
their profit will come mainly from turn-
over in the next five weeks. Ribbons in
all widths and tones, especially the wide
grosgrains and failles will be used. Nov-
elty wings and quills are expected to
return to the status they had several
years ago. There will be an early run
on flowers, even the January hats show-
ing some lovely crowns of flowers. Both
the large flowers and the tiniest ones are
seen.

Later on in the season, manufacturers
expect to use wheat, ferns and mosses
in the natural tones. Ornamental veils
are shown on the plain models, in fact
many of the smartest hats depend on
their veils only for their trimming.

Dress hats will have chin ribbons,
chignon loops and streamers but these
will not come in until later on. Some
of these ribbons will .have metal edges.
One importer believes' that glycerined
ostrich will be as much favored as it
ever was while the coque and biot
feathers will be used also.

HODGSON & SUMNER MARK 65TH
ANNIVERSARY

A dinner was recently given at the
Montreal Club by the firm of Hodgson
Sumner & Company of Montreal which
was attended by the travelers, buyers,
office staff, inside salesmen and the
board of directors, numbering some 80
altogether. The event partook of the na-
ture of an anniversary celebration, sig-
nalizing the firm's 65th birthday. Af-
ter the delicious menu had been enjoyed,
toasts were drunk to the King, and to
the various departments which have co-
operated so loyally during the past years
to build up the present business. Mu-
sical selections were given during the
evening ibv Messrs. W. C. Hodgson,
James Callander, Elliott Jones and J.
L. Desjardins.

Buyers predict the"comeback"of the puit
this season and a corresponding revival in
the blouse business will come as well. Blous-
es are being given a prominent place in sales
throughout the country and wide purchas-
ing is necessary that stocks may be brought
to normal.

J^dodel Hats

Newest Fashions Exclusive Style

Our prosperity rests upon your ability
to sell our merchandise and to sell it at
a profit. Realizing this we have pro-
vided an adequate stock of salable and
profitable lines for the SPRING SEAS-
ON.

Newest Merchandise New Prices

GOULDING y SONS

55 Wellington St. West, Toronto

ltc

Lamuton

Ottawa

innipeg

Jonn St, N. 236 Jackson Bldg. 66 King St.

•:%

Dry Goods Review

MILLINERY

107

The new "Fiskhats" are ready

— We take distinct pride in
inviting you to inspect them
— also our large open stock of
Fisk millinery.

Beginning
January 16th

We advise an early selection from
these exclusive productions of our
own workrooms and from the
season's choicest importations.

If you are unable to visit Chicago,
you will find a complete display

At New York
411 Fifth Ave.

D. B. FISK & CO.

Creators of Correct Millinery
225 North Wabash Ave., Chicago

41 1 Fifth Avenue, New York

IMPORTERS and MANUFACTURERS

Art Needlework and Fancy Goods

"Peri-Lusta" "Crystal"

Mercerized Cottons Artificial Silk

Embroidery Materials

Fancy Linens and Piece Goods

MADEIRA HAND EMBROIDERED
LINENS and HANDKERCHIEFS

Campbell, Metzger & Jacobson

932-938 Broadway New York e Cor. 22nd St.

Canadian Showroom and Factory-:

Bay and Wellington Sts., - Toronto, Canada

Spring Styles are Ready

Millinery Frames

Always the newest in stock

From Best Makers at Best Price"

Milliners everywhere
making up Spring stock
have an ass^rtme^
frames that wil'
liners to mak
ning of h'

AIf
a'

MILLINERY

Dry Goods Review

crassa!

S&MMJMM

mmmmmmmmmmm m m mm m m 2 *m zre w m mm

pim

The above is a reproduction of the Dynamo

Booklet, containing- photos of latest Parisian

TJ ^ts. This booklet is being- sent to all retail

^ry and dry goods stores throughout

^ne is sold only through mill-
ds houses.

*ite to

OUTERDE

Makers)

lion & Co. of Lyons (France) for the
e only sell to the Wholesalers.

80 Wellington

St. West

TORONTO

Tel. Adel. 4184

i/s*irrwr>»ir«(iri^rfc\iir8vir«tii>»iirM

DRY GOODS REVIEW

109

-'lii.iiiiii

Now as Never Before —

You Need Sound
Financial Information

THERE never was a time when
business merchants needed sound,
sane, financial knowledge of com-
mercial happenings on which to base
present and future investments as they
do right now.

For your business profits are not real
profits until you have them safely in-
vested in reliable securities.

Why not invest profits from your
shop and the coupons from your Vic-
tory Bonds in genuine securities, news
of which you will find every week in
THE FINANCIAL POST Investors 1
Enquiry Service, a feature for sub-
scribers which will give you the benefit
of investigators in all the big financial
centres? This service is just as if you
paid a man $10,000 a year to be your
own personal investigator in Toronto,
Montreal, Winnipeg — in fact, every
city in the Dominion.

But you cannot hire the services of
this staff — you get them free with a
subscription to THE FINANCIAL
POST, through this splendid Investors'
Enquiry Service, which is free to all
readers.

But that is not the only thing — this
commercial newspaper gives you the
financial, industrial, banking news of
the country in convenient readable
form — just the data you need for your
business — just the facts you need for
your investments — in fact, a splendid
partner of the ambitious merchant.

When 8,425 merchants, business
executives, bankers, lawyers find in
THE FINANCIAL POST the verv
facts which will help them in their
business, will you not find a weekly
reading of its pages very beneficial?

THE FINANCIAL POST

143-153 University Ave., Toronto, Ont.

.192

THE FINANCIAL POST,

143-153 University Ave., Toronto.
On the understanding that THE FINAN-
CIAL POST contains just the facts I need for
safe investment of profit, you may send me a
recent issue.

Name . .
Address

Look

for this

Trade

Mark

On
Yellow
Boards

Only

Our Spring
Lines

of printed foulards, lining sat-
ins, printed georgettes, brocad-
ed and embroidered silks.

Our Staple
Lines

which you will find in stock.
Grenadines, satins, crepe de
chine, georgettes, chiffons,
ninons and brocaded silks.

We are carrying in stock at To-
ronto the latest shades worn in
Paris and New York. Our display
shows the trend of the season.
Don't fail to see it.

Les Successeurs de

ALBERT GODDE, BEDIN&CIE

PARIS
LONDON

TARARE

LYONS
NEW YORK

EMPIRE BUILDING : 64 WELLINGTON STREET WEST

Telephone : Adelaide 3062

TORONTO

E. Desnoux, Rep

Western Canada Agent : Edwin J. Kirkbright, 205 Bower Bldg.

Vancouver, B.C.

110

FURS

Dry Goods Review

Our National Emblem-The Beaver

Relationship of This Industrious Animal to the Fur Trade in

Canada Both Past and Present — His Habits of Life and Steps

Being Taken to Conserve Him— Increased Value of His Pelt

FURRIERS state that beaver skins
are enjoying an unprecedented pop-
ularity this season for trimmings
of all kinds, as well as for the entire
coats, and the rumour that the avai.able
supply is so peculiarly a Canadian pro-
duct, emblematic in the truest sense of
the word of our national industry and
resourcefulness, and constitutes a most
admirable symbol to characterize our
Dominion upon its official insignia. Al-
though there are plenty of fur bearers
infinitely more valuable than the beaver,
there are few that are so closely bound
up in the history of a nation, nor which
have played so great a part in creating
wealth for their exploiters. In the old-
en days, beaver skins passed as currency
and every province can show records in
which the exchange and barter of these
pelts formed the principal part.

But apart from its commercial value
In the industrial world and in the realm
of fashion the beaver is exceptionally in-
teresting to students of natural wild
life. It is possessed of such remarkable
intinct and constructive ability coupled
with energy and boundless capacity for
industry that naturalists have made it
the subject of considerab e study.

Beavers Disappear from our Wilds

The Canadian Pacific Railway recent-
ly drew the attention of the people of
Canada to the fact that our native
beaver are rapidly becoming extinct and
it issued considerable information rela-
tive to feasibility of domesticatng the
beaver or rather cultivating the animal
in its wild state under domestic restraint.
Just about a year ago the first beaver
ranch in eastern Canada was successful-
ly established in Prince Edward Island
from which pelts have been sold at
prices approximating $50 'apiece. A
close season for trapping wild beaver
has been proclaimed in Alberta by the
provincial government in order to pre-
serve the valuable little animals from
extinction, and satisfactory results have
thus early been obtained to this end. In
Calgary, many colonies of beavers took
up their abode in one of the most beauti-
ful public parks of the city, which quick-
ly showed evidence of the activities of
this active animal. They became a dis-
tinct pest in the course of time, and
application was granted to trap the ani-
mals and thus save the fine trees of
the park from utter extinction.

"Water Squirrels"

In investigating the habits and
characteristics of Canadian beaver, one
obtains interesting data relative to
its natural haunts, its habits and peculi-
arities. For instance, beavers are de-
fined as "big water squirrels." They
belong to the order of gnawing animals,
and are equipped with a pair of power-

ful incisors which are really tools with
which it achieves feats of construction
and destruction. This class of animal
is herbivorous and is not in any sense a
fighter but is rather instinctively peace-
ful.

Beaveis are much larger animals than
are commonly supposed, weighing from
35 to 60 pounds and measuring two or
three feet in length exclusive of the flat
spade shaped tail which may be ten
inches or more in length. Its hind feet
are webbed and its tai. is rather scaly
in appearance, being devoid of fur. The
hind feet and the tail enable the beaver
to swim and exist in water as easily as
on land, and its front paws are almost
human in their manner of lifting up
sticks, moving logs, etc. The fur, of
course is brown but it varies in shading
from a creamy shade to a deep chocolate
tone. The real beaver fur that is used
upon coats and scarves is the under fur
over which stiff brown "water hairs"
grow that protect the more de.icate pelt
beneath.

Their Habits

Beaveis locate their habitats in
streams along which biich or maple
trees grow, for the bark of these trees
is their favourite food, and when once
they have selected their future home the
building of the proverbial dam begins at
once. The reason for the dam lies in
the fact that the stream must be made
deep enough to provide the beaver with
winter quarters that are unfrozen at the
bottom. So the beaver commences his
dam in the autumn and expends infinite
patience in gnawing down the trees
which are to form part of their construc-
tion. Their method of felling trees is
unique and effective. They gnaw deep
para. lei grooves around the trunk of the
tree with their sharp front teeth, then
they tear out the fragments that remain
between the grooves, repeating this pro-
cess until the tree falls over into the
stream. Scientists have not quite de-
cided whether or not the beaver actually
guides the direction of the falling tree
by his gnawing or whether trees grow-
ing by the waters edge do not incline
natural.y in that direction. However it
is, the beaver generally manages to
strip off the branches and gnaw the
tree into short lengths which are then
towed or floated out to the middle of
the stream and weighted down with
stones and mud. In those localities
where beavers have been at work for
years there are few trees left in the vi-
cinity of the water's edge and so the little
animals are obliged to go inland for
their wood. If the beaver has a long
distance to go he will try to construct a
canal along which he can float his logs
to save the exertion of hauling them.
Even after the dam is finished, the beav-

ers must continually repair and raise it
as the water constantly trickling through
quickly breaks it down if not closely
watched.

Where Beavers Live

In the summer months beavers live on
the river bank in burrows but in winter
they move inlo what is called a "lodge."
This dwelling, which is constructed from
branches, stones and mud contains two
sections an upper and lower apartment.
The lower one has two entrances into
the water and is filled with the food sup-
ply for the winter, such as twigs and
boughs. Above are the actual living
quarters of the animals, raised slightly
above the surface of the stream. The
walls of these lodges are usually three
feet thick and are covered with sods
just before the water freezes over by
these marvellous little animals.

Only one family of beavers occupies
a lodge at one time, comprising the par-
ent beavers and the young varying from
two to five cubs. In the third year the
older cubs are sent out to commence a
home of their own, but when the colony
gets overcrowded it is always the young-
er beavers who seek a new home else-
where.

Necessity for Conservation

It is high time that beavers were con-
served and cultivated in Canada before
they become well nigh extinct. Experts
in wild life asserted that unless beaver
farms are soon established beavers will
become as extinct as the buffalo within
20 years. Formerly they were numerous
all over this continent, but in the Unit-
ed States they are practicahy extermin-
ated. The finest skins come from Lab-
rador, Nova Scotia and Alberta.

In the old days beaver fur was exten-
sively used for the making of men's silk
hats, but today it figures largely in
coats, neckpieces, muffs and trimmings
for women's wear. It is estimated that
altogether some 80,000 skins are trapped
in North America and about 1000 are
imported from Asia.

As an example of how the commercial
value of the beaver skin has changed
authority is given for the statement that
fifty years ago the fur sold at $1. a
pound whereas the price at the last
auction held in Montreal was ranged be-
tween $7.25 and $35. a piece.

The question of the affiliation of the
International Fur Workers' Union with the
International Fur Workers' Secretariat, a
world federation of International Fur
Workers' Unions, was discussed at Montreal
and the Canadian board issued instructions
to the general officers to investigate and re-
port on the matter at the next meeting of the
board, which takes place in June.

Dry Goods Review

FURS

ill

Fresh Shipments of Persian Lamb

Are Reaching Canada in Pre-War Quantities — Foxes in All Col-
ors To Be Good For Spring, Say Toronto Furriers — Stone Mar-
ten To Be A Strong Second — Belief That Forming Of New
Canadian Fur Auction Company Is Good Thing For Fur

Business.

HAT WILL women wear this
spring?" the busy fur manu-
facturer repeated the question
asked by Dry Goods Review. "You tell
me when spring begins this year, and I
will answer you. Merchants are still
ordering their winter furs, just as
though it were October or early Novem-
ber. My factory has worked three nights
a week since the middle of September.
The retail stores will sell winter wraps
and coats until late in February, this
year." He then went on to say that

the last few weeks have brought a re-
markable change in the demand for fur
coats. Previous to that, no matter how-
great the demand was for coon or musk-
rat, seal was wanted most of all. Now
the call is for lamb. Enquiries and sales
for this fur have' totalled nearly as
much as the others altogether. "There
is no doubt," he states, "that this is
the surest indication of what will be
worn next year. We manufacturers
would like to see a return of the black
Persian lamb. Almost all of the women

who will ever buy a fur coat, will have
one by the end of the season, so some-
thing else must be pushed to take the
place of seal. Moreover, the scarcity of
the muskrat skins makes the vogue for
the Hudson seal a real hardship for the
manufacturer. Persian lamb is now be-
ing shipped over to this country as it
was previous to the war and there is
no reason that it should not be used
again."

All the furriers are agreed that what-
Continued on page 112

A window on Yonge St., Toronto, which is attracting much a Mention these January days. The actual size of the window

is only 10 x 4 but the screen at the hack and sides and the snow on the floor makes it look like a large forest. The

falling snow is cotton glued to the window. Display by the Princess Fin- Co., Toronto.

112

FURS

Dry Goods Revisuu

FRESH SHIPMENTS

Continued from page 111

ever the spring will favor in chokers
and scarves, there will at any rate be
a large number of foxes. These will
be in all colors, white, brown, Lucille,
cinnamon blue and cross fox. The an-
imal shape will prevail, fur being as a
rule on both sides. Fox just had its be-
ginning last spring- — a beginning which
augurs well for one of the best seasons
this fur has ever had, for the first few
months of this year and for next fall as
well.

Stone marten is second to fox for this
season. It is a fur which never be-
comes strong enough to outgrow fem-
inine interest and for that reason is one
of the best year-in and year-out sellers.
Two Toronto manufacturers believe that
it will have a run this year. as never be-
fore. Canadian marten will not be far
behind in the race for second place.
Furriers in this country, say that it is
gratifying to see our women learning
to appreciate Canadian furs. Women of
other countries have demanded them for
years — in fact Canadian furs are asked
for in Europe as Russian sable is bought
here.

Mink and grey squirrel has by no
means fallen below its usual standard
of demand. These will be worn in both
chokers and scarves.

A Toronto wholesale furrier informs
Dry Goods Review that the forming of
the new Canadian company to promote
fur auction sales is one of the best for-
ward movements that has taken place
in years. There will now be no reason
for turning over the huge sums that
have been spent heretofore on exchange
when buying at the American marts. It
will also mean quicker delivery in most
cases. Moreover, it seems fitting that
Canada, which is one of the largest
fur-bearing countries in the world,
should have a market and a distributor
for its products.

After-Christmas Sales Emphasize One
Point

Furriers who look for a business in
winter furs after the New Year has set
in, declare that it is always better to
emphasize values at such a time of year.
The style end of it is, as a rule, only
incidental.

Most women who delay buying their
furs until January, do so because they
want the best price they can get. These
women have also the advantage of know-
ing the accepted fur and style of the
season. Invariably, retailers declare,
the stress is laid by such purchasers
on the most staple and practical furs.
There is a growing tendency on the part
of the consumer, to patronize special-
ty fur shops in preference to fur de-
partments in large stores, and there is
a preference shown this year for stores
of high-standing with a reputation for
value-giving at sale events. Drastic
measures were taken in December and
are being continued into January by

many stores, in a determined effort to
reduce their stocks.

Taking into account the heavy supply
of skins which have come into the
world's fur markets, the Canadian Fur
Auction Sales Co., in a report on the
raw fur situation, maint'ans that more
serious consideration must be given to
the working out of the law of supply
and demand. The present indications
show that the Canadian crop will be
quite extensive and as far as prices
are governed purely from a basis of
supply and demand retailers should
give this problem serious consideration
just now.

Better Prices

REVIVAL OF DRESSMAKING

Continued from page 91

are especially wanted in these heavier
fabrics.

Cotton crepes are being shown in a
more artistic range than usual, in
which the sweet pea design is decidedly
the outstanding effect in patterns. The
demand for American made crepes is
steadily increasing as the quality has
improved so greatly and is to be de-
sired in preference to Japanese or
other imported varieties. Lingerie crepes
are also shown in new patterns such as
birds, butterflies or figures.

A warning is issued that if sufficient
ginghams are desired to last throughout
the season, orders must be placed at
once. The demand for all kinds of ging-
ham is enormous, especially in the check-
ed pattern^, so that every available
yard will probably be placed by the
mills before long. Two toned shep-
herd's plaid checks and four toned c, im-
posite checks are very big just at pres-
ent, but there is also a constant call for
qnarter to inch sizes and larger checks.
British ginghams are very effective
this year in these checked effects, but
the plaids are also noticeable on account
of their smaller, neater composition. The
dark colors are probably the best sellers
so far, and such combinations as navy
blue and white, brown and white, green
and white and red and white will be
seen later on for street and hcuse wear.

New Tub Fabrics from Paris

Although Canadian firms do not as
a rule go in heavily for imported wash
fabrics, yet those that do are always
assured of the appreciation of really dis-
criminating shoppers. The latest fash-
ion with French dressmakers is called
"Organdina" and this is said to be a
fine cotton crepe which is admirably
adapted for the making of wash frocks.
All the French fabrics, whether of cot-
ton or silk are featuring the "blistered"
effect this season. This peculiar finish
is known as the "Bulla" treatment and
is not woven but applied to the finished
goods. All the French wash goods in-
cline to rather striking Oriental pat-
terns, but the linen and the crash fab-
rics are simple and plain, depending upon
cleveir manipulation to bring out their
latent possibilities.

By February

Canadian Fur Auction Sa'.es Co., Looks

for Improvement — Europe Heavy

Consumer

Taking cognizance of the heavy sup-
ply of skins which have come into the
world's markets, the Canadian Fur Auc-
tion Sales Co., Ltd., in a report on the
raw fur situation, maintains that more
serious consideration must be given to
the working of the law of supply and
demand.

The company, however, declares that
it looks for an improvement in market
conditions and for better prices than
those now prevailing before its mid-
winter auc.ions beginning Feb. 13.

Consignments for the February sale,
it is ascertained, are now being solicited
by officials of the Canadian company, in-
cluding Frank H. Pingree, the new gen-
eral manager.

It is reliably reported that up to 50
per cent advance, based on the company's
valuations, has been offered on con-
signments.

The company's market report follows:

"There has been but litt'e change in
the fur market during the past few
weeks.

"At the opening of the season, buy-
ers were over-enthusiastic and paid
some exceptionally high prices, but the
increasing volume of merchandise that
came on the markets forced prices down
to a more sound and justified basis.
As we predicted, the catch in the States
has been exceptionally heavy, and buy-
ers throughout the trade have had some
difficulty in financing the large quan-
tities that have been offered in the var-
ious centers.

"The present indications are that the
Canadian crop will be quite extensive,
and buyers throughout the country are
inclined to make their purchases as rea-
sonable as possible. Europe wTl be
large consumers of various kinds of fur,
provided prices are kept within their
means.

"Fur prices are governed purely from
a basis of supply and demand, and
where the catch is large— such as it is
this year — J his fact must be taken into
consideration more seriously than ever.

"All indications point to better prices
and conditions as the season progresses:
consequently, we feel that the market at
the time of our coming sale, Feb. 13,
1922, will be much improved."

OFFICERS ELECTED

The annual general meeting of the
Montreal Wholesale Millinery Associa-
tion was held recently at the committee
room at the Board of Trade, with a
large attendance.

Following are the officers elected for
the ensuing year: President, J. W.
Belisle; vice-president, E. J. Orkin;
treasurer, S. H. Ivey, and directors, G.
B. Beattie and B. M. Hallward.

Dry Goods Revievj

FURS

113

HARD WORK

Continued from page 57

Many retail merchants in the writer's
observance, have not as yet written off
the loss caused by depreciation in prices
and they are thus able to make a show-
ing on paper, which does not exist in
fact. In the terms of the vernacular,
it is bad business policy "to kid oneself"
and the careful man of business will
write his stock down in his January in-
ventory to just where it belongs, plac-
ing it on the market at a price which
will show a reasonable profit on the re-
placement cost. It is only by facing
the situation, as it exists, and marking
goods at a price to interest the public
that the springs of business will once
again begin to flow. Manufacturers,
wholesalers and most of the retailers
have taken their losses and know where
they stand. Those who have not, should
do so at once.

Failures Among "Don'ts"

While on the subject of inventories,
what proportion of the retail merchants
take stock annually? Most of the really
successful ones do. Most of those who
fail, don't. In the writer's experience
with The Canadian Credit Men's Asso-
ciation Limited, over a period of nine
years, he has come in contact with hund-
reds of merchants who have failed. Very
few of them indeed were in the habit
of taking stock and preparing an annu-
al balance sheet. Had they done so,
the danger signals would have been ap-
parent and steps would no doubt, in
many cases, have been taken to avert
disaster. Why go it blind when annual
balance sheets and trading statements
were made to see with?

With regard to balance sheets, how
many merchants see fit to supply an-
nually a copy of their statement to the

Mercantile Agencies and The Canadian
Credit Men's Association Limited? To
do so is often as refreshing to your
business as a good night's sleep is to
you after a heavy Saturday. Many re-
bailers feel insulted when asked for a
statement. They feel more insulted
when Credit men refuse to O.K. an or-
der for shipment. Yet how is he to
know; a "leap in the dark" is not a
popular form of sport in these strenu-
ous days. The merchant, whose posi-
tion is sound, has nothing to fear from
disclosing his standing to the organiz-
ations whom his suppliers look to for
information and the merchant, who
finds himself getting into difficulties,
would do well to consult his chief sup-
pliers before it is too late. After the
trying times through which we have
passed, it is no disgrace to require ac-
commodation and this is much more
readily granted, when complete infor-
mation is volunteered. Legislation
passed in 1920, coupled with close co-
operation Iwith creditors, has, during
the period of depression, made it pos-
sible for many businesses when taken
in time to be saved from liquidation,
and will continue to be the means of
saving many during 1922.

The future calls for hard work, close
economy and the exercise of sound
business judgment. With the exercise
of these, a return to normal conditions
is assured.

late from the mills and most importers
state that they have not yet received
their orders which were booked last
August for delivery in November. This
condition applies to both domestic and
foreign silk shipments.

MANY NEW CREPY WEAVES

Continued from page 88

and outer apparel, including fancy de-
signs appropriate for sports clothes.

Deliveries Later Than Usual
A peculiar feature of the Spring seas-
on is that deliveries are execepti:nally

FUR FARMS IN CANADA

The latest statistics available on the
fur-farming industry in Canada show
the distribution by provinces as follows:

Number
Province of fur

farms

Prince Edward Island 309

Nova Scotia 55

New Brunswick 57

Quebec 80

Ontario 42

Manitoba 2

Saskatchewan 2

A.berta 15

British Columbia 11

Yukon 14

Total 587

The raising of wild fur-bearing an-
imals for the sake of their pelts, has
been carried on in this country for more
than forty years but it is only within
the last decade that it has become one
of the established industries. The fox
has proved the most suitable for domes-
tication, although some success has been
attained in the raising of mink, skunk
and raccoon.

DEATH OF MRS. FRASER

Mrs. Donald Fraser, wife of Donald D.
Fraser, dry goods merchant of Strat-
ford, Ont., died recently at her home.
She leaves to mourn her loss, besides
her husband, one daughter.

THE MARKETS AT A GLANCE

Continued
anxious to do their Spring buying and it will mean a
brisk trip for travellers when thoy once gel out with
their showings. Sailors, turbans and other staple lines
of millinery are going very well to begin with ; the veil-
ing business has helped these lines along very nicely.
Among the imported lines to be seen are some very
striking models from Paris and New York.

Some Accessory Lines

Travellers are already on the road with ivory goewfe
for Christmas 1922 but there is a noticeable tendency
to give a less seasonal aspect to ivoryware and to promote
its sale all the year round. A certain wholesale house
in Toronto since Christmas has dropped prices from 20
to 40 per cent, the average being 30 per cent. Some
very good business has already been received. Tortoise
shell Avare is being pushed with greater energy than
formerly and it promises to be strong by Christmas.
Handerehiefs are also being sold for Christmas this
year; the Christmas just passed cleaned up stocks very
well and a good demand is for immediate delivery.
Pome bag retail sales of short gloves are in progress;
the coming season promises a big demand for the long-
glove with a gauntlet.

from page 59

Laces still continue very strong: the demand has
been steady ever since fall. Prices from the wholesaler
and manufacturer do not fluctuate. Embroideries have
been rather slow. Manufacturers' agents here state that
their mills are hungry for orders and that prices have
dropped considerably since a year ago. They say that
stocks arc clean, however, with the manufacturer and
that he is only working on a guaranteed business.

Advance showings of new leather goods in Toronto
and Montreal have been very successful from the manu-
facturers' point of view. Lingerie manufacturers say
that the season will be one of the best they have ever
had and the Canadian manufacturers generally are
showing some most creditable merchandise both from
the standpoint of style and qnaility.

Ready-to- Wear

Travellers have not been out on the road very much
since the turn of the year but where they have hern
they have received most encouraging businesss. They
say that retail stocks are entirely cleaned up. Buying
is careful but not stinted ait all as indicating that re-
tailers are looking for a slack season. They are order-
ing well.

114

KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

Conservative Styles in Knitted Goods

Are Favored by Montreal Manufacturers

Less Bizarre Designs in Sweaters Will be Shown — Tuxedo Will
Still be Strong — Good Styles for Sports' Wear — Knitted Blouse-
Coats Will be New Feature — Vogue for Knitted Bathing Suits
Grows Each Month — The Knitted Cape for Beach Wear

NO HARD and fast rules regard-
ing styles in knitted garments can
be laid down this season, declares
a prominent Montreal authority on knit-
ted goods. It all depends upon the pur-
pose for which the garments are to be
worn. There are those who say that
dark shades will be the vogue and there
are others who predict that fashionable
women will prefer fancier designs and
novel weaves and are tired of navies
and blacks. And so we have arrived
at a season when it will be permissible
to select a style for every occasion and a
color appropriate to the same, irrespec-
tive of whether some fashion authority
degrees brown or blue as the case may
be.

Insofar as Montreal manufacturers
are concerned however, it is said that
they wil! confine their efforts to the
less' bizarre designs in sweaters and will
put out only such models as are certain
to appeal to the conservative tastes of
the Canadian woman of the better class.
Therefore, it is safe to predict that there
will be more tuxedos of the strictly tail-
ored sort shown than there will of the
slip-over type, yet for young girls and
children the latter kind of sweater is
probably the most becoming and youth-
ful sort of garment ever devised for the
comfort of "sub-debs" and the young-
er generation in general.

Pullover Styles Good for Sports Wear

To begin with the last named, we shall
probably witness a great demand for
Peter Pan sweaters complete with collar
and cuffs of contrasting colors. One ma-
ker says that he has registered a dis-
tinct success with a black pullover mod-
el in the simplest stitch which has a
turn down collar and muffs of white
angora. This sweater is also made in
navy and camel and is undeniably smart
and useful. A very large number of
mens' and boys' sweaters have been sold
this winter to women for sports wear.
These are of the heavy white slip-over
type with large rolling collar and close
fitting neck and are especially good for
winter sports. On this account the trade
expects that the open neck pullover will
stand a good chance of popularity next
summer for golfing, etc. A very fetch-
ing little model recently seen by Dry
Goods Review was of Byng blue yarn in
hip length with a kind of "breast-plate"
effect made of looped strands of the
same shade. Another was 1 of camel shade
with horizontal inch-wide stripes of jade.
These are distinctly on the order of ex-

treme novelties however, and cannot be
worn hy everyone.

Tuxedo Still The Favorite

Tuxedo styles are like the famous
river which "goes on for ever" since
they reappear for next spring in new
stitches and n vel color combinations. No
other style has yet been evolved which
is so completely becoming to every wo-
man, and it is safe to predict that 90
per cent, of the sweater business done
by the stores of Canada will be on tux-
edos both plain and fancy.

Art Silk Coats for Summer

Expectations are that fibre-knit sweat-
ers of art silk will carry the day es-
pecially in more solid and plain designs.
The ultra extreme and over elaborate
models shown last summer which were
trimmed with long fringe, etc., were
neither smart nor serviceable and the new
styles will not resemble them in the
least degree. Instead the makers are
featuring regulation tuxedo coats in
long lengths made in ribbed or striped ef-
fects in plain solid colors, mostly blacks
and navies, which will be adopted by
smart women to whom the plain style
has always the greatest appeal.

Silk and Wool Mixed is Effective

A mixture of si.k and wool will be an-
other important novelty, particularly at-
tractive when it combines wool in one
shade and a silk admixture in another.
One such model is developed in a pretty
heather mixture imbrowns, blues or fawn
and features short sleeves with tuxedo
collar and cuffs of brushed wool. There
is a narrow string sash of wool, tipped
with bushy tassels and the coat is bor-
dered with narrow stripings of the pre-
dominating color of the wool. This silk
and wool mixture is decidedly more dressy
than the regulation all-wool variety and
will fill a decided want in this direction.
For the young gnrl who loves out-door
sports the same manufacturer is show-
ing a simple iirtle pullover finished with
a round monk's collar in white angora
wool. This sweater comes in hrown, na-
vy and fawn with white contrast.

The straight tuxedo coat of Krepeknit
or Chinchilla fabric is a new idea, that
will probably be very successful when
worn with a sports skirt of contrasting
shade. This kind of coat is not worn
for warmth but for style solely.

Knitted Blouse-Coats

From New York have come some nov-
el sports sweaters which will shortly be
copied by Montreal makers. Their prin-

cipal claim to originality is in the fact
that though they are pullovers they
stimulate blouse coats cut on roomy lines
with the low waist line gathered into a
wide band on the hips. They are cut
with deep V necks and the sleeves are
beautifully fitted and are mostly short
in length. On several of the models
there is an unusual applique of fibre silk
in a vivid cold contrast, cut into deep
points all round the waist. On practic-
ally all of these imported models there
is a lavish use of silk and wool in com-
bination so that it would appear as
though this were to be the outstanding
note in knitted goods for the spring
and summer.

Another manufacturer states that he
is receiving constant calls for sweaters
developed entirely of brushed wool and
that he cannot begin to fill these orders
on time. The wanted styles are entirely
of solid colors, principally in brown, fawn
and blue with a tuxedo collar, cuffs and
belt of a deeper shade. The same house
registered considerable success with a
line of knitted dresses which they show-
ed this winter and they expect to do
equally as well with a coat and skirt cos-
tume of wool, the skirt of which will be
of white, stripped in black or colors, worn
with a plain coat in a shade to match
the striping. Striped blazers are another
novelty shown for women and men, the
color combinations being particuWly
striking although the stripes are quite
narrow.

Knitted Bathing Suits Again Lead

The doom of the knitted cape would
appear to be sealed unless for beach
wear or country use, but on the other
hand the vogue for knitted bathing suits
grows with every month. Anent the out-
look for the, coming season in the latter
classi of knitted goods, a prominent
manufacturer expressed himself as be-
ing very optimistic.

"The unusually successful, although
short season for 1921, showed how great
was the consumer demand for the knit-
ted bathing suit," he said. "And even
though wholesalers and retailers are
placing orders in larger quantities, I
cannot foresee that there will be any
surplus of goods. For years the knitted
bathing suit has grown in popularity,
due to many reasons, the most important
of which are that the fabric was made
better, so that it did not hang and sag
and become shapeless, and also because
knitted bathing-suit manufacturers con-
Continued on page 115

Dry Goods Review

KNITTED GOODS

115

Operating Expenses of Department Stores in 1920
Show Average Net Profit 1.8% of Net Sales

Bureau Of Business Research Of Harvard University Issues

Statement Compiled From Information From Department

Stores in United States And Canada — Total Expenses Were

25.9% of Net Sales— 305 Stores Heard From.

DURING the past year the Bureau
of Business Research of Harvard
University has been collecting
figures on operating expenses in depart-
ment stores. This research was under-
taken with the support and co-operation
of the National Retail Dry Goods Asso-
ciation in order to obtain data that
might aid in securing greater economy
in store management. The results also
provide first-hand information on this
important business for use in teaching
the Graduate School of Business Ad-
ministration, of which the Bureau is
a part.

Detailed profit and loss statements
for the fiscal year 1920 were submitted
to the Bureau by 305 department stores.
Tabulations based on these reports show
that the common figure for total ex-
pense in department stores in 1920 was
25.9% of net sales and the average net
profit 1.8 '/r of net sales.

The report recently sent by the
Bureau to all firms which co-operated by
submitting profit and loss statements is
as follows:

Report of the Harvard Bureau of
Business Research.

Operating Expenses in Department
Stores in 1920

Profit and loss statements for 1920
were received from 305 department
stores, located in thirty-nine states, in
Canada, and one in Hawaii, with aggre-
gate sales amounting to $535,193,000.
The net sales of the individual firms
ranged from $71,000 to $29,000,000. The
reports of 266 stores were in sufficient
detail for reliable tabulation of the items
of expense for which common figures
are in Table 1. Inasmuch as 1920 was
not a normal year, these figures are to
be used only as a guide for comparison
with the 1920 results in the individual
store. Definitions of what is included in
each item of expense are given in the
Explanation of the Schedule for Depart-
ment stores previously sent to co-oper-
ators and in the reports of the Standard-
ization Committee of the Controllers'
Congress. Total expense includes interest
both on borrowed money and on the mt
investment in the business, and a rent-
al charge for the store whether the
buildings are owned or leased. The fig-
ure for Rentals includes insurance, taxes,
repairs, and depreciation, paid in Ueu of
rent. The figure for Advertising is the
expense incurred for advertising space
and does not include Publicity salaries
and the smaller items of Pub'ic'ty ex-

pense. The Net Profit figure represents
net profit on merchandise operations
before adding Sundry Revenue (Met)
and Interest and Rentals Earned, and
before deducting Provision for Income
and Excess Profits Taxes.

Of the 266 statements used in compil-
ing Table 1, 110 gave a detailed distri-
bution of salaries and wages. For these
110 stores, common figures for the .sub-
divisions of salaries and wages are
shown in Table II.

Table 1

Operating Expenses in Department
Stores in 1920 — 26t'< Stores

Net Sales ^100'/ f

Salaries and Wages 13.9%

Rentals 1.9

Advertising 2.0

Taxes (Except on Buildings,

Income, and Profits; 6

Interest (On Capital-Borrowed

and on Capital-owned) 2.1

Supplies 8

Service Purchased (Heat, Light,

Power, Delivery) 6

Unclassified 1.6

Traveling 3

Communication 2

Repairs 3

Insurance 4

Depreciation (Losses from Bad

Debts 2

Other Depreciation 5

Professional Services 1

Total Expense 25.9

Gross Profit 27 . 8

Net Profit 1.8

Table II

Salaries and Wages in Department
Stores in 1920—110 Stores

(Net Sales = 100%)

Administrative and General Ex-
ecutive 1 • 5%

Other Administrative 4

Office 1.2

Occupancy 6

Publicity 4

Buying' 1.7

Receiving, Marking, and Stock-
Room 2

Inside Selling-Dricet 6.3

Indirect 11

Delivery 5

Total Salaries and Wages 13.9. .

CONSERVATIVE STYLES

Continued from page 114

tinued to put more style into their gar-
ments.

"The common tendency has been to
stick to conservative ideas as far as put-
ting new ideas and new vogues into the
knitted bathing suit was concerned with
the result that we find for years the
manufacturers almost unanimously using
a horizontal stripe or stripes of differ-
ent colors in the body of the suit. There
will be a tendency to feature vertical
stripes next season, as well as plenty
of other new trimming contrasts. I may
say that the defects that formerly caused
the knitted bathing suit to be criticized
have now been practically eliminated.
The knitted suit is serviceable and keeps
its shape and insofar as its popularity
is concerned, I may say that it sells in
the proportion of 30 to each one of silk
or satin.

"My opinion is that the knitted bathing
suit for men, women and children has
come to stay, for the marked increase
in sales proves that the consumer re-
gards it as the most practical swim-
ming garment."

Feature Capes With Bathing Suits

Another prominent importer of knitted
goods pointed out that the retailer who
finds) htimsellcf overstocked on knlitted
cp^ies should push them with the bathing
suits later, combining both garments in
sets, specially priced. There will be a
certain demand for these capes in this
connection once the bathing season sets

George D. Montgomery, traveler for
the Cobourg Carpet & Matting Co. died
at his home in Toronto, on December 11

LIGHTLESS ADVERTISING SIGN

London, England, boasts a new light-
less advertising sign, which the manu-
facturer claims, saves between 50 and
70 per cent, of the ordinary cost of the
lighted sign. This new sign is visible
by day or night without electricity. It
is called "Catchlite." A piece of glass
is silvered and fluted horizontally. A
second piece of clear glass has flutings
at right angles to the first. The first
is placed under the second, the outside
one being painted on the interior in var-
ious colors. The portion which is re-
quired to form the letters or signs de-
sired, is left clear of paint, so that the
silvered glass shines through. This
gives a brilliant light both in daylight
and in dark.

116

KNI.TTED GOODS

Di-y Goods Review

How Worsted Yarns Are Made

Industry Is A New One In Canada And Splendid Progress Has
Been Made — Unballing The Wooltops — Other Operations Des-
cribed—The Process Of Dyeing The Most Difficult— Useful
Points For The Salesman.

THE making of worsted yarns is a
comparatively new industry in
Canada, yet it has already reach-
ed a stage where it can compete with
those made in most other countries.
In one or two instances, manufacturers
have even been called upon to instruct
representatives from mills in the British
Isles and the Uni.ed States, in the use
of improvements which have been dis-
covered here. Most Canadians en-
gaged in the industry here, make the
better grades of wool, either for use in
their own garments or for hand-knit-
ting. The cheap grades require to be
made in such quantities in order to ob-
tain a worth-while profit, that Cana-
dians are content to let British mills
supply the needs of this country. It is
only by making the best brands that
Canada will be known for its yarn-
making as it now is for its homespuns
and tweeds.

The proprietor of a worsted knitting
mill in Toronto, that of Aked & Co., al-
lowed a representative from Dry Goods
Review to make a call on his factory and
watch the yarn in the process of making.
The who'.e process was so interesting
that it seemed worth while reproducing
for the trade. Very often merchants
themselves have ,a fair idea of how most
of the fabrics they carry are made, but
clerks who actually handle them, have
not an opportunity of calling on manu-
facturers.

Received Here In Wooltops

The wooil is only carded or combed
when it enters the spinning factory. It
comes from the English or Scotch mill
in huge balls of soft wool stripes about
two inches wide and an eighth of an
inch thick. It resembles strips of very
fine and soft cotton batting more closely
than anything else. This wool is called
"wooltop," when in the condition describ-
ed.

This wooltop is first "unbailed," that
is, passed through a machine which se-
parates the wool into a loose mass still
in one long strip but more easily handled
than when worked on from the original
ball. It is then blended, that is, several
strips are passed through a machine to
form one strand. Spooling is the next
process. Each strand is worked onto
a large spool which is one of hundreds
placed in long rows for the next opera-
tion. This is one of the most interest-
ing of all. The contents of two spools
of loose thick wool pass into the machine
to come out of it as one close, thin
strand, or three or four or five strands
spun into on e according to the type of
yarn required. Twisting is the last op-
eration — some machines draw into one

strand and twist at the sairte time.
Twisting is done by means of a "flyer"
which revolves at a terrific speed, wind-
ing the strands as it goes. The yarn
is now in a circular uniform shape, the
thickness of which depends on the mim-
ber of strands of which it is composed
and the quality of yarn used. The ma-
chines used in this work are constructed
in such a way that when one spool runs
out, the whole thing automatically stops.
There is therefore no danger that a
four-ply yarn, for example, should be
only three-ply in some parts because
one spool has stopped feeding its strand
for ia time. As far as the making of
the yarn is concerned, it is now ready
for hand-knitting as soon as it is wash-
ed and bleached or dyed.

Scoured In Soap-suds

The yarn which has a great deal of
oil in it is now placed in a Large vat
of soap-suds and rolled through it sev-
eral times before being rinsed. The
water is then extracted from it by cen-
trifugal motion. The container in which
this is done, revolves at such a rate —
850 revolutions per minute — that 85 per
cent, of the moisture is removed before
it is placed in the drying closet. Or-
dinary warm air is used to remove the
dampness which remains.

In the case of white wool, washing is
not sufficient to give a good color. It
must be bleached. The yarn is placed
over night in a peroxide bath and then
kept for another twenty-four hours in
strong sulphur fumes. The whiteness
of the finished wool cannot always be
attributed to the method of washing or
bleaching but to the original quality
of the wool used.

Dyeing The Yarn

The dyeing process is probably the
most difficult of all, because it requires
more care than the other operations.
The selection of dyestuffs must be done
by an expert. In one or two colors,
there are American and British dyes
which are very good but most of the
best ones are still obtained from Europe,
particularly from Switzerland. In

European dye factories, where they have
studied dyes for hundreds of years, each
man is taught how to make one color
and nothing else. In this way the general
secrets of dye-making are never dis-
closed. This is one of the reasons why
the industry has had such up-hill work
in America.

The yarn is dyed by passing it
through the solution while suspended in
skeins on revolving rods. It is then
"extracted" as described above, and
dried in the warm closet.

To make Oxford grey yarn, two black
wooltops are fed to the drawing ma-
chine for every one of white. As the raw
black wooltop is more expensive than
the white, this yarn is often dearer than
the white or co'.ored, even though the
processes of bleaching and dyeing are
not used in making it. In order to make
heather yarn, it is necessary to dye the
different yarns first and then spin them
into one strand. Where a mercerized
silk and wool is required, the silk and
wool may be spun together before dye-
ing, as the silk does not take the dye
to any extent.

Made Into Balls

As it is difficult to handle in loose
skeins, the yarn is first wound into large
cones which hojd it firmly for the next
operation. It is then made into small
diamondi-shaped balls by means of a
machine which shapes and balls at the
same time. The balls are finally sub-
jected to a drying process which makes
them full and light and are then brand-
ed. They are then boxed, usually
twenty-four balls to a box and shipped
to the retailer in a condition which
makes makes them attractive display
articles for his counter.

Some Canadian mills, have so far,
not used their own brand to the same
extent as is done by British manufac-
turers. They have been content to place
the names required by the leading
wholesale and retail houses, on the or-
ders sent them. Now, however, they
are beginning to use trade-names which
will distinguish their make from every
other, because the trade and the con-
suming public are becoming more and
more satisfied with the worsted yarn
made in this country.

DINNER TO END TRAVELERS'
MEETING

A most successful convention of trav-
elers, managers and sales staff brought
1921 to a close for the firm of Alphonse
Racine, Ltd., followed by a dinner at
the Place Vigar hote 1 , at which instru-
mental and vocal music and community
singing formed the principal entertain-
ment and were entered into with great
gusto by all the guests.

Visits to the company's factories, lec-
tures and discussions on sales topics as
seen by both indoor and outdoor sales
staffs, formed the main features of the
convention, and revealed a most optim-
istic feeling pervading the whole person-
nel, as to the prospects for the future.
The event covered three days.

Dry Goods Review

KNITTED GOODS

117

Early Year Knitted Goods Sales

The Merchant Whose Merchandise Is Dependable The Year
Round Will Cash In On January And February Sales — Cus-
tomers Want One Hundred Cents Worth Of Quality For Each
Dollar — Stress Infant's Wear More — Giving Service To

Mothers

JANUARY and February sales are
bigger features than ever among the
i-etail stores of this country. The ap-
peal of thrift is finding a ready re-
sponse in every city and town in Canada.
Consciously or unconsciously the public
is asking; Is a dollar worth a hundred
cents when changed into merchan-
dise? Genuine reductions and good mer-
chandise are the chief factors in sales
during the first two months of 1922.
Both of these phases of the sale question,
present, at times, real difficulties.
Stocks, because of the conservative buy-
ing policy of 1921 are very low compared
with previous years. For this reason,
one prominent retailer believes, that on
lines which must be replenished, it is
better not to buy merchandise on which
reasonable reductions cannot be made.
The merchant who is satisfied to conduct
his sales on the basis of stocks on hand,
will, this year, have better results in the
long run.

Merchandise of the serviceable and
staple variety should, as a rule, pre-
dominate during these sales months. Of
course, a small percentage of new goods
is necessary to freshen up the appear-
ance of the stock. Many customers at this
time of year, are people, women
especially, who have received mon-
ev gifts for Christmas. The appeal
of thrift is the primary one to such
shoppers. They think of this money as
a nest egg, to be used when time and ad-
vantage present themselves. Then there
is the big class of men and women, and
it is bigger than ever this year, who
practise thrift as a matter of course.
The word "Economy" and its allies are
fvo biggest words in the advertising vo-
cabulary of the merchant of today.

All-Year-Around Confidence Backbone of
January Sales

The live merchant, knows that the
sales he looks forward to in January
and February will never reach his ex-
pectations, unless he has the confidence
of the public during the whole year.
There is a store in a small city in
Ontario, which owes its very existence
to the fact that it has built up a satis-
fied clientele. This store is considered
high-priced by the average women and
is therefore, during ordinary times, only
patronized by the better cla^s of shop-
pers. During a sale however, it is re-
markable how many other people are
drawn inside its doors. The manager be-
lieves that the saying which is on the
lips of most of the women in his town
is responsible for the general appeal. It

is: "When Blank Blank & Co. advertises
a sale, you know it is genuine." He
never buys specials and though he may
lose immediate opportunities by so doing,
he has gained life-long friends by re-
ducing only the stock which was origin-
ally marked in his store at a higher
price.

If there is any department where
service should be stressed more than in
others it is in the infants' section. Only
those stores which encourage mothers to
bring their children, will make a suc-
cess of infants' wear. Thh service
question as it applies to encouraging
trade, can be settled in many ways, be-
sides hovering constantly over mother
and child in an effort to sell anything
and everything on the counter. Atten-
tion to the matter of seating accommoda-
tion, means service. A representative
of Dry Goods Review recently made a
cal. on a general store in Northern Ontar-
io, which boasted a counter for babies'
needs. At that counter there was not a
single chair to be seen. There was more-
over, a feeling about the place which
discouraged the taking of time, which is
so essential to a mother who carries an
infant while making purchases.

Service to Mothers

An American store has solved the
problem in a very satisfactory way. In
a small section of the department there
are several easy chairs and couches
where mothers and babies may have gar-
ments which are to be tried on, brought
to them. Besides this, there is a scale
where babies are weighed free — an ac-
commodation which many mothers who
have their children on a special diet, take
advantage of. Diapers are hemniea
here free of cost. Women are taught
how to cut and sew garments for in-
fants. Most important of all, the sales-
women in this department are "hand-
picked." Girls who understand children
are chosen. Every clerk cannot make a
success of selling to young children.
Sometimes the best saleswoman at an-
other counter, is the poorest choice for
this section. On the other hand, a girl
of only mediocre ability will win many
friends for this store, if she possesses
sympathy and patience. Crowds nearly

always frighten children. That is the
principal reason why babies which are
usually well-behaved, will become hy-
sterical in stores. One of the first
things a saleswoman should know, is that
time must be given babies, to become
accustomed to the general surroundings,
before they are fitted with caps and
wraps. Crying babies keep the mothers
of other babies away, because, of all the
ills that children are heir to, crying is
the most contagious of all.
An Infants' Department in Every Store
There is not a specialty shop in this
country to-day, selling infants' and chil-
dren's wear exclusively, which is not
making a success of it. Department
stores which emphasize this section, re-
port excellent profits. Then why do not
more merchants in Canada, have infants'
departments? Experience has taught
that they will never sell as many lines
or as much of any line, while they keep
them all in the store. A section for
children is as essential as one for men.
Mothers are the very best customers.
Children rapidly outgrow their clothes if
they do not wear them out. A mother's
tendency is to buy for her children rather
than for herself. If times are bad, she
will buy baby things and save in the
merchandise she ordinarily purchases in
other departments.

MOVED TO BOWMANVILLE

The Thomson Knitting Co. Ltd., form-
erly at 15 Morrison Ave., Toronto, have
moved' to Bowmlanville, Ontario. No
change has been made in the staff.

NEW PLAN BRINGS CUSTOMERS

The Jas. Ogilvy Company of Montreal
tried out an unusual feature in the way of
publicity this month when they advertised
that one of the leading artists at a local
theatre would give an exhibition of her skill
at the store on a certain morning. This
demonstration was to take the form of a
shopping tour undertaken by "Shireen" the
girl with the "X-Ray" eyes, who would walk
blindfold from the theatre down St. Cather-
ine Street to the Ogilvy store where she
would demonstrate her mysterious power.
The affair was widely advertised and en-
ormous crowds gathered along the street
and in the store to await her arrival which
she did completely blindfolded. She walked
through the store telling colors, textures and
prices of goods, and describing the sales
staff accurately, to the amazement of the
crowd. As the annual January sale was in
progress many attractive bargains were
arranged to attract visitors on this occasion.

118

KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

UNSHRINKABLE

The Underwear
ihatOVervtears 34

ATLANTIC UNDERWEAR

LIMITED

MONCTON - - N.B.

E. H. Walsh & Company

Montreal 8t Toronto

Selling Agents for Quebec, Ontario and Western Provinces

"Burritty'means"BuyIt"

— to the woman who knows

Whatever texture, whatever color is wanted
for the occasion

BURRITT'S HOSIERY

will supply the need. You are confident of
satisfying when you carry our line.

COLORS

White, Black, Navy, Tan, Cordovan Grey,

Beaver, Champagne

Silk and lisle hosiery

attractively boxed for the fastidious buyer

A. Burritt & Co.

Mitchell, Ont.

Established 1875

Manufacturers of Sweaters, Pure Camel Hair
Men's Seamless Gloves, Pullovers, Toques,
Boys' and Men's Ribbed Worsted Hosiery.

Dry Goods Review

KNITTED GOODS

119

A Leader

for

Your Trade

No. 368

This smart model is knit
full fashioned from ex-
tra quality yarn. Black
and white form the con-
trasting stripe effect on
the long tuxedo collar
and cuffs, also the hem
of the skirt. Comes in
combination of all
popular colors.

This is but one of the
many interesting Burritt
ines we are prepared to
show you.

Our travellers are now on the road with samples for
Spring and Fall delivery.

A. BURRITT & CO.

Mitchell, Ont.

Established 1875.

Manufacturers of Sweaters, Pure Camel Hair Men's

Seamess Gloves, Pullovers, Toques, Boys' and Men's

Ribbed Worsted Hosiery.

^ IfliiM.mjjgfe ni^ ^nfiv ii ^^^

120

KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

BALLANTYNE KNI

For Spring 1922 is now Being

Novelty Coats, Scarfs, Girls' Middies, Children's Smocks and Pullovers.
Boys' Jerseys, Shawlettes, Bathing Suits for" Men, Women and Children.

The New Style Ideas are First

R. M. BALLANTYNE, LIMITED

Dru Goods Review

KNITTED GOODS

121

TTED OUTERWEAR

Shown By Our Representatives

The new styles are here shown for your approval within a few weeks of
the opening of the spring selling season. They show the newest style
tendencies and thev set the stvles wherever shown.

Seen in the Ballantyne Range

STRATFORD, CANADA

122

KNITTED GOODS

Di-y Goods Revieiv

Announcing the removal of our Factory and Office to

Bowmanville, Ontario

Our new quarters have been equipped to increase, if possible, our service to our
customers.

The following lines are made by expert Canadian Operators for the special require-
ments of the Canadian trade —

"Italian Silk" Hosiery for Ladies and Misses

"Leader" 2/1 Ribbed Cotton Hose for Children

"Jack and Jill" 1/1 Ribbed Cotton Hose for Children

The superior finish of these brands is carried out in new labels and attractive
packages. Give these three popular brands a prominent place in your Hosiery De-
partment.

Thomson Knitting Co., Limited

Manufacturers of Quality Hosiery

Bowmanville, Ontario

SELLING AGENTS:

Win. R. Begg & Co., 20 Wellington St. West, Toronto.

J. B. Trow & Co., Old Birks Building, Montreal.

A. E. Montgomery, 212 Hammond Block, Winnipeg, Man.

Protected by Canadian Letters Patent No. 131,529 and Canadian Lstters Patent No. 123,703

The Visor "4 in 1" Sweater

(Four Sweaters in One)

Note the four ways the collar can be worn. The most practical and best
selling coat on the market. Made in many weights in HALF CARDIGAN.
SHAKER and JUMBO stitch.

We make also this year the best SHAWL COLLARS on the market in all
our lines. Also V-NECKS. PULL-OVER sweaters with stripes, and other
lines of PULL-OVERS for Men and Ladies. Also Double Reversible CAPS.
Ladies' CAPS and SCARES. BRUSHED. Men's SCARFS BRUSHED and
UNBRUSHED. We have added several new attractive lines this year,
both in Men's, Ladies' and Boys'. Some of them light weight, all with
the superior VISOR finish.

One of our representatives will call eai'ly in the season. Don't place your
order until you have seen our complete line.

We particularly RECOMMEND our new light weight coat called
DUROTEX. It is the best of its kind on the market. It is a BIG
SELLER. Shown in many NEW STYLES and NEW COLORS and SELLS
ALL THE YEAR.

VISOR KNITTING COMPANY, LIMITED

NIAGARA FALLS, ONTARIO

Factories also at Niagara Falls, N. Y.

Dry Goods Review

KNI.TTED GOODS

123

HAWTHORN E4BRIC

CANADAPRODOCT

The Dry Goods Economist, Ameri-
ca's leading fashion journal has al-
ready begun to predict the fashions
for next spring. Of one thing they
are sure, — that sports wear will be more
fashionable than ever, and that the leading
fabrics will be knitted fabrics and home-
spuns.

Hawthorn Fabrics have been gaining more and
more prestige every year, partly because of
their beautiful draping qualities and delightful
shades, but even more so on account of their
genuine serviceability, and the fact that they
will not crease or sag.

It will pay you to lay in a good stock of gar-
ments made from these splendid fabrics. Write
us for list of manufacturers who use Hawthorn
Fabrics in their new spring coats, suits and
cloaks.

'IgykH*-

AWTHOP"

ifflade in Qarlctou Place, Out., by Hawthorn Mills, Limited

+.'.7:.

124

KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

The Acme of Comfort
and Durability

Peerless Underwear is ever satisfying the
demands of descriminating customers with
its fine texture, its neat fitting and wearing
qualities.

Retailers all over Canada find it a pro-
fitable line to handle.

For Women — Children — Infants.

IE'S

Representatives

E. R. Woodiil, 123 Roy Bldg., Halifax..

N.S.

Ernest Hamel, 66 Rue de L'Eglise,
Quebec, Que.

R. C. Poyser, 417 King's Hall Bldg.,
St. Catherine St. W., Montreal, Que.

C. & A. G. Clark, 35 Wellington St.
W., Toronto, Ont.

Hanley & MacKay Co., 407 Hammond
Bldg., Winnipeg, Man.

J. J. MaeKay, 504 Mercantile Bldg..
Vancouver, B.C.

PEERLESS UNDERWEAR
Company Limited

Controlled by

J. R. MOODIE&SONS
HAMILTON, ONT.

Season follows Season

in the demand for

Our All-wool Plaids
and Stripes

Sport Caps
Heather Sox
Black&White

Worsteds
Tweeds
Homespun
Cashmere

Men's & Boys'

Jerseys

Sweaters

Jerseys

Underwear

Socks

Mitchell Woollen Co.,

Limited

Mitchell Ontario

CELTIC

SILK HOSIERY

Salesmen are nowjon the road with samples of
the latest "CELTIC" lines, plain, and with
hand-finished embroidered clocks in designs
that will please your customers.

Selling Agents:

HARVEY BROS. & SEMPLE Ltd.

224 Empire Bldg.
TORONTO

313 Fort St.
WINNIPEG

325 Howe St.
VANCOUVER

The Celtic Knitting

CO., LIMITED
14 Turgeon St. Montrea

Dry Goods Review

KNITTED GOODS

125

KENWOOD

Outdoor
» Comfort

Products

There's Quick Sales
Action for the Dealer
who Displays —

Kenwood All Wool Bed Blankets

Few women can resist the appeal of Kenwood colorings, the quality of the blanket
and the attractive price. This fact has been demonstrated by many dealers.

SOLID COLORS

White, Delft Blue, Tan,
Grey.

PLAID COLORS:

Rose-white, Blue-white, Tan-
white. Rose-blue-white. Rose-
tan-white, Blue-tan-white.

Kenwood Bed Blankets are woven of clean, new (virgin)
wool only — selected wool which creates a firm, sound
fabric, soft, warm and durable. Size 72 x 84. Weight 4
pounds each blanket, 8 pounds the pair. Binding either
whipped all 'round with worsted, or across ends with
3-inch satin ribbon.

And to Help You Profit from This Display-
window material that strikingly features the advantages of Kenwood All Wool Bed Blankets, FREE
to dealers purchasing 12 (or more) pairs of Kenwood Bsd Blankets. Particulars on request.

Kenwood Mills, Ltd., Arnprior, Canada

126

KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

New Dods-Knit
Lines Are Opened

%y^fv

See This Trade

Mark on Every

Garment

Selling Agents

Ontario and Western
Canada :

R. Reade Davis

Manchester Building

33 Melinda Street,

Toronto, Ontario.

Quebec and Maritime
Provinces:

William C. Forster,

128 Bleury St.
Montreal, Quebec.

E are pleased to announce to the
trade that we have opened our new
lines for Fall delivery 1922.

Our Selling Agents have full sets of
samples, and are now touring their respect-
ive territories.

Do not decide upon your requirements
until you have seen the new samples —
they're good !

Two Additions This Year

are — Beaver Fleece for ladies and children
made up in

Vests and drawers, combinations and
bloomers for ladies.

Waists, bloomers and sleepers, vests,
drawers and combinations for children.

Each garment will be stamped with our
new trade-mark — our guarantee that the
quality is there.

All lines have been made out of new
stock, so that we are able to touch rock bot-
tom with prices.

Our new factory is completed, and with
the addition of the most up-to-date bleach-
ing, knitting appliances, etc., — the Dods
Scotch and Elastic Knit guaranteed 100''
pure wool, Dods Merino and Dods-Knit
Beaver Fleece lines are the best that money
can buy.

The Dods Knitting Company Limited

ORANGEVILLE - ONTARIO

Dry Goods Review

KNITTED GOODS

127

Tr nn

"British, Founded 1883"

FINE PURE WOOL

NOVELTIES

FOR

Spring and Fall
1922

Our Travellers have left
with a full range of new
lines and standard goods.

We have made all provi-
sion possible to meet the
demands for the coming
season.

Our agents can rely on
our best endeavors in the
execution of orders, which
should be placed as early
as possible.

THEJAEGERCo.,Limited

243 Bleury Street - Montreal

JEM KNIT GOODS

Made in Canada
For Infants and Children

J E_M knit goods sell throughout
the year. Different weights for
different seasons. Mothers

quickly realize that the dainty
warmth-giving JEM knit goods
are necessary for the baby's
health and wardrobe.

128

KNI.TTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

WB^

\/na Standard
^for Style, Quality and Value

Monarch-Knit

SWEATERS • HOSIERY
KNITTING YARNS

KM ONARCH-KNIT products offer you the biggest range
of styles and the best values in Sweaters/ Hosiery,
Yarns, Jerseys, Bathing Suits and other Knitted apparel for
men and women. The Monarch-Knit label is virtually a
guarantee of quality. When the Monarch-Knit salesman
calls at your store, be [sure to] see his samples, for they
embody the very newest styles in knitted garments and
novelty knit goods.

The Monarch Knitting Co., Limited

Head Office: Dunnville, Ont.

Factories: Dunnville, St. Catharines and St. Thomas, Ontario

MONTREAL
The Monarch Knitting Co., " Ltd.
Hub rule Bldg., Phillips Square

Dm Good* Review

KNITTED GOODS

129

These Stockings In

THREE EIGHTIES"
Stockings for women en-
joy a greater prestige and sale
than any other one style of
hosiery in Canada.

The comfort, durability, and
economy of "Three Eighties"
have built their reputation and
make them a really consistent
seller.

"Three Eighties" are a seamless

The Chipman-Holton Knitting Com

Mills at Hamilton a

130

KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

The Toe is more Tapering
And the Heel is Deeper in

Circle-Bar Hosiery

These are only two of the many points which
mark Circle-Bar Hosiery as different
other lines, and make it easy to sell.

All styles in silk, wool and cot-
ton, for men, women and child-
ren.

HOSIERY.

Superior Quality
gives satisfaction

Elastic Top

gives Comfort

Perfect Weave

gives beauty
Narrowed Ankle

adds shapeliness
Deeper Heel

prevents wrinkled instep
unforced Feet

give durability
Tapering Toe

provides comfort

The Circle-Bar Hosiery Co., Limited

Head Office : Kincardine, Ont. - Mills at Kincardine and Owen Sound

•i n-y.v-n v x y y )i v if y y-x-x-y \ 1 1 K.x-y.y.y g y g xwri-m i

For the highest
Quality—

A.W

at the
Lowest prices.

Place your orders with

MOYER

&,co.

124 KING ST. W.

TORONTO.

Manufacturers of

Complete Uniforms for Baseball, Hockey,
Soccer and Rugby, also Gymnasium and
Basketball Jerseys and Knickers, Boy
Scout Uniforms, all wool Bathing Suits
and Swimming Trunks, Girls' Middy
Blouses and Gymnasium Bloomers, and
a full range of White Duck Clothing.

Write for prices

We will give your enquiry
prompt and careful attention.

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Dry Goods Review

KNITTED GOODS

133

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knitted underwear made in
Canada — that is reinforced
at all wearing parts.

That is

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THE PURE WOOL

UNDERCLOTHING

THAT WILL NOT SHRINK

Our travellers
are now on
the road
with new
samples and
prices —
with a full
line of
CEETEE
and Turn-
bull's
Ladies',
Children's
and Infants'
garments.

Don't place
your order
until you
have seen
our lines.

Made only by gfa

of Gait, Canada

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134

ACCESSORIES

Drv Goods Review

Novelties in Accessory Lines

Glove Manufacturers Concentrating on Long Styles — Safety
Pocket for Envelope — The "Snappon" Umbrella Coming to
Canada— Look For Season of Colored Hose— Some of the Latest

Footwear Styles

GLOVE manufacturers are very
anxious to prevent a repetition
of the shortage of last season in
long gloves. In fact some firms are
making the gauntlet and long glove al-
most, to the exclusion of the two-clasp
glove. Of course, this "is partly due to
the fact that the re:ail trade is heavily
stocked with short gloves which give
little promise of moving. There is a
decided inclination moreover, to reduce
the prices on short gloves. Merchants
are anxious tj get rid of them as they
do not look forward to a return in
favor of these even by Fall. The pre-
vailing shades for Spring will be sand,
mode, beaver and the greys.

Leather Novelties

The leather envelope with the safety
pocket is being introduced in all the
Spring shades in the novelties just ar-
rived from New York. Eerise leather is
favored in square and circular shapes
for handbags in the new soft shades. A
novel canteen and vanity bag is prob-
ably the last word in purse creations.
Two kinds of leather are often shown
in these. Moire is used as lining, the
soft pastel shades being specially flav-
ored. The fittings are usually of bright
metal, which are said to give Lnger
wear than those of the silver finish.
The vanity type of handbag is the one
that designers fancy particularly at the
moment. The models are varied, some
coming to a narrow point and others
following the long envelope style. Ster-
ling butt n clasps and corners ornament
them and some have even cord handles
and tassels.

Filigree tops of green gold are fan-
cied for many of the vanities. They
are used also on the pouch bags of
moire silk.

Spring Parasols

The "Snappon" umbrella which has
been taken hold of in so many of the
American cities, will very shortly be
made in Canada. This umbrella has
different covers for every costume,
covers which can be slipped on the
frame at a moment's notice. Fabrics
for this line include umbrella silks in
the high sports shades, fancy water-
proof silk brocades and a rubberized
silk for use in bathing. Handles and
ferrules are made fcr this parasol in
all the novelty types and in amber,
ebony and bakelite.
Great Expectations for Colored Hose

Rarely does a Spring season pass
without some color fad in hosiery. This
year manufacturers are expecting a

vogue for beige, sand, nude, taupe and
grey. In fact, the demand for these is
expected to be as str.ng as that for
black. The sheer stocking will hold its
own, according to one of the leading-
retail stores in Toronto which says that
in the better class of hose, women
have been asking for sheer lines, par-
<ticwlarly chiffon, more than f_r any
others. Silk net is the second choice
by particular patrons.

The fad for white hose with colored
slippers, which was brought over to
Canada a little late last Summer, will
be in full swing this year. This will
mean a record business in white hose.
As the vogue for cotton dresses is
promised again, this is also given as a
reason why white will toe the biggest
seller during the midsummer.

Footwear Styles

All the new style tendencies in shoes
were presented at the eleventh annual
convention of the National Shoe Retail-
ers' Association which met in Chicago
on January 10. The fancy shoe was
again exploited and color played a con-
spicuous part in most of the models.
The exhibition was very satisfactory
from the point of view of variety —
two hundred mannequins took part in
the promenade. The strong tendency
toward novelty footwear received a
great stimulation at this exhibit.
Prominent retailers say that the dec-
orated shoe has come to stay and that
women are Very mucih interested in
them.

Black shoes trimmed with brilliant
red were shown not only for evening
wear but for the street as well. Red
heels which were confined mostly to
the stage last seascn, were introduced
by several manufacturers. Black patent
leather and black satin made the body
of many models, with narrow strips of
red leather as trimming, as well as the
red leather heels. Even the new Cuban
heel was shown in red.

Although red predominated at the
Revue, bright blue and green trims
giave a pleasing touch of color to some
models. That grey has not been rele-
gated to the days of past and f -rgotten
glories, was very evident from the
numbers of afternoon slippers and street
shoes shown in grey suede with black
sa'.in or black patent combination.

TAe Oxford Again

The Oxford was very prominent at
the exhibition and while the plain walk-
ing Oxford was shown in tan and black
calf and with Cuban and very low heels,
the only actual change in theim was in
the contrast of colors rather than in
the style.

Straps were a feature of all the
shoes from the evening pump with
four straps to the walking shoe wijh one.

White was very strong in combina-
tion with bright colors or black but it
was not shown to any extent alone. In
fact, in most cases, color was used in
equal proportion with white. Broad
bands or the entire vamp or even the
heel was of the color and the rest was
white'. Of course there were many
models which had white heels.

For evening wear the colored tinsel
falbrics were displayed extensively.
Black brocaded slippers were also shown
with straps' or buttons of rhinestone.
The stockings worn with these slippers
were usually plain; fancy hose with
drawnwork or beading were the excep-
tion rather than the rule.

Hiking shoes which were so prom-
inent a year ago, were not very much
in evidence. Shoes for children had the
very square toe and the high shoes dis-
played black patent leather vamps with
white kid uppers. Dress slippers for
children were in black patent leather
or white kid and had an ankle strap.

Women's boudoir slippers featured
the mule with the back, which, after
all, should be welcomed as being more
comfortable than the ones worn dur-
ing the last year or two.

There were two features which were
(Continued on page 135)

Dry Goods Review

ACCESSORIES

135

What Paris Says About Lingerie

Combinations Are Strongly Favored — French Woman Wears a

Boudoir Cap — Pyjamas a Part of Every Outfit — Many Fancy

Garters Seen — The "Leap Into Beds"

PARIS, December 28th, 1921

LINGERIE: Such is the subject I
tDld you in miy last letter I would
write about this month. In fact
there is nothing very new to say on
this subject. The general fashion, in
spite cf all trials, is priatby much the
same as it has been for several years,
viz: very straight and narrow, there-
fore undergarments have to follow. If
ntext Summer, the fashion for much
longer and fuller skirts is adopted, then
we shr 11 have to look forward to longer
and wider chemises, with more tucks,
and elaborate trimmings, knickers long-
er too, and much wider, with flouncings,
lace, etc., and we shall also have to
think of petticoats which, for quits
soma time, have been neglected. This
Apartment is on the lookout already,
for a good many petticoats can be seen
in taffetas, silk, etc., with tiny pleated
fl/uncings that thow the above tend-
ency.

Combinations Favored

As combinations are very much favor-
ed, maybe they will remain in demand,
provided the skirt is devised so as to
suit the new needis. The materials still
in favor for rich lingerie are silk and
cambric, the latter being preferred for
Summer wear. More and more do we
adopt the knitted garments for Winter
wear, either in wool or silk, also jer-
sey. In fact, in the big dry goods
stores here, you see almost nothing at
this time of the year, unless for pres-
ents, in which case the articles shown
are heavily trimmed, to be effective, with
lace and embroidery. By the way,
some very nice presents can be made
that way, either in real underclothing,
for cl>se relatives, or embroidered
blouses, doilies, cushions, etc., all in
white cambric with real lace and hand
work. In the way of trimmings, those
that are most important are real lace,
filet, Venetian lace, binche, Valen-
cienmies, etc., openwork and! embroid-
ery, not in big quantity, but of fine
quality, tiny group of tucks now and
again, but nothing very elaborate. The
present lingerie is very neat, and often
trimmed with plain net, which is strong,
and very light.

Chemises With Knickers to Match

So far, we still have short chemises,
generally empire shape, with nothing
but a band of pointed filet lace, for
instance, inserted on the cloth, and bor-
dered by a band of material. The
shoulder straps may be a very narrow
filet entredeux, or a ribbon. The for-

mer is more practical, but the latter is
brighter.

Of course, the knickers match it,
and are closed. The night gown is de-
vised on the same lines, and has short
sleeves, also a ribbon threaded round
the waist. Combinations are also sim-
ilarly made, and may not change, unless
big petticoats are needed next reason,
which I don't thinik will happen, at
least not just yet. It will take us
several seasons to get again used to
those sumptuous but most tiresome skirts
— that is if we can change the mind of
the younger generation, which is growing
more and more independent in every
way. Will our young ladies bend their
heads to the ever ruling queen Fashion ?
That is the question! In the present
days of Bolshevism, one may doubt it!!!

Pyjamas Kimono Shape

I am much more inclined to believe
in pyjamas, whose fashion is growing
more and more: some can be had at
very decent prices, and as there are no
bounds to fancy in that line, the mcst
extraordinary can be seen, both as re-
gards printed materials and shapes.
However, those adopted by people
(ladies and gentlemen) who prefer com-
fort to "propriety," (for here, pyjamas
are, in many instances, considered
shocking:), and yet mean to be decent
all the same, they will take the striped
ones with collar and revers of plain
material. Zephyr cotton cloth for Sum-
mer and cotton crepe or zenana for
Winter are mostly demanded for the
purpose.

"Leap Into Beds"

"Sautt de lits" are also part of lin-
gerie, and very much like pyjamas, as
far as materials are concerned. Since
the kimono shape is very fashionable
for that style of garments, we shall
have them with Japanese designs or
embroidered on Japanese silk, duly
padded if for Winter, and zenana which
is a kind ox silk metallasse very com-
fortable in appearance. Light shades
are always preferred, especially for
young ladies.

Another thing which is more and
more fashionable is "Boudoir caps." In
fact, nowadays, everybody has some;
they may be made of rich material, em-
broidered or trimmed with real lace, or
be made of embroidered cambric, or
more simply by a piece of spare net,
gathered in bouill-nnes, and just edged
with a bit of ordinary lace and a rib-
bon.

Garters are also amongst the acces-

sory! lingerie articles, and some fine
ones there are too, all made of ribbon
gathered on elastic, with a beautiful
ribbon flower on the side. These found
a ready sale when corsets were neg-
lected. At present, however, the latter
are being in demand again, with the
new style of half fitting suits. So far,
though, they are very little more than
elastic belts, with a few bones, to under-
line the shape of the body. They are
very plain with no trimmings but a
garland of rocooeco flowers at the top.
Brassieres worn with them are made of
str ng filet lace or embroidered strong
batiste.

Handkerchiefs are still . very fanci-
ful, quite a number of them, being made
of colored cambric, only one shade;
khaki, vieux rose, deep blue, etc., or
with wide stripes bordering the edge,
crossways. To my liking, these do only
for gentlemen, to wear in their coat
pocket, but ladies who have adopted
them to a certain extent, cannot enjoy
such handkerchiefs as much as they
did the dainty white cambric ones, with
a neat hemstitch and pretty embroid-
ered monogram or flower motifs, or the
lace bordered handkerchief, which was
really an ornament more than anything
else. But this sounds old-fashioned to
our youngster's ears. They are much
too sporty to care for beautiful work,
and our grandmothers derived many a
happy day, first in choosing their trous-
seaux, then in making their babies'
"layettes," and their daughters' trous-
seaux. The new generation is too much
occupied with all kinds of sports to care
for such things. As long as their clothes
are practical, it makes no difference to
them what they are made of.

Let us hope the ancestral taste will

revive in them, in time, so that the

reputation of the Parisienne may not

be lost. It is her most brilliant feature!!

Yours very truly,

Jeanne Gsell

NOVELTIES IN ACCESSORY LINES

(Continued from page 134)

outstanding at this convention, and
which should be particulai-ly interesting
to those of the Canadian trade who are
interested in smart footwear. These
were; the solid black, the solid white
and the solid tan shoe were almost un-
seen and that while nearly all the slip-
pers had straps these were confined to
the instep rather than the ankle as in
ether seasons.

136

ACCESSORIES

Dry Goods Review

Silk Gloves in Gauntlet Length

Montreal Men Say They Will be in Strong Demand for Spring —

Three Styles of Gauntlets — Trade Not Placing Much for Fall —

Some New Fall Styles — Wool Gauntlets Will Imitate Leather

A LEADING Montreal glove manu-
facturer whose line includes every
kind of staple and fancy gloves,
states that the coming Spring and Sum-
mer will witness the heaviest demand
for silk gloves of all sorts that has ever
been known. From the orders placed al-
ready it is quite evident that styles in
long lengths will be most fashionable
and it seems probable that few one and
two dome fastening silk gloves will be
produced. All the usual neutral shades
of browns and greys are being called for
in gauntlets, mousquetaires and even
full length styles. Washable chamois-
ette gloves will also be in greater de-
mand than ever for every day use,
especially in the many charming new
styles which feature cutwork or applique
upon the cuffs in imitation of leather
or leather effects. Cream on brown or
pearl on grey are very smart combina-
tions.

The fact that raw silk has already ad-
vanced considerably in price has appar-
ently influenced the retail trade opinion
that there is no time like the present
for buying. At any rate most retailers
realize that there is danger in delaying
to place orders for silk gloves and are
acting accordingly.

Three Styles of Gauntlets

In strap wrist gauntlets there are
three styles of particular interest. One
of these has a strap, about one inch
wide, carried all round the glove and
this strap has a very narrow border of
lighter color. Another gauntlet is ex-
tra wide and long in the cuff section
with a gore set in, while a third style
has a turn back cuff of lighter kid. This
glove can be worn either as a straight
gauntlet or with cuff effect. The em-
broidery on the back carries out the
lighter color scheme. The gauntlet is the
glove par excellence for the Spring
sports costume while the longer length
glove is favorably considered for dress
wear.

According to an importer of French
gloves there is no demand for the short
glove whatever, and with the shortage
of skins of certain kinds on the increase
there wi'l not be any too many of the
gauntlet style available a little later on.
There is said to be an increasing demand
for the new loose glove, or one which
has a wide wrist permitting it to be
pulled on without the use of a fastener,
elastic or strap. This is equally smart in
leathers for sport's wear or in kid for
dress occasions. All white kid shows
heavy trimmings of black in applique or
else an all-black glove is similarly treat-
ed in white.

Montreal houses are chiefly concerned

just now with Fa.l orders and travelers
are now out with samples for the Fall
and Winter of 1922. Retailers are very
slow in placing, it was said, and it is
feared that a very serious situation may
arise if prompter action is not taken by
the trade. As one prominent maker
pointed out. the demand for fine gloves
has now overtaken the supply and as the
manufacture of gloves is an industry
which necessitates plenty of time for the
process, it is esential that orders be re-
ceived early in the year if deliveries are
expected on time or sufficient quanti-
ties are to be available. If the trade de-
lays in ordering, the manufacturers
suffer a sales loss and it inevitably re-
acts to the disadvantage of the retailer
insofar as prices are concerned. This
Winter there was a shortage of lined
gloves and all wool gloves due to this
reason, so that the advice so strongly
urged by the makers is not uttered with-
ru, laason.

As regards the new styles for next
Fall which are being offered the tirade
by Montreal houses there is much that
is interesting. Fur trimmed gloves will
again be shown especially in a new sty.e
with elastic wrist with a deep fur cuff of
mole dyed coney on real mocha skin in
such shades as grey, sable or slate. This
style is lined thi - oughout with pure wool
of a very soft and comfortable texture
and the glove is so designed as to look
extremely well without being in the
least bulky or clumsy.

Another new glove is a strap wrist
gauntlet model shown in sable or slate
mocha with fur forming a heavy cuff
which is extended up one side for sever-
al inches.

Woo' Gauntlets Imitate Leathers

There are at least two unusual new
woollen gloves for next Winter, includ-
ing a gauntlet of angora wool, trimmed
with a fringe of the same up one side
simulating the leather cut-work former-
ly often seen on leather gloves of this
type. Another smart heavy wool gaunt-
let is rather longer than the usual type,
being especially designed for ski-ing or
other Winter sports. It is developed in a
range of four patterns, or rather color
combinations, the pattern in each case
being a checker-board effect upon the
cuff, done in inch squares in two or
more tones, chiefly vivid colors on white.

In addition to these Winter-weight
models thei-e are being shown the usual
range of leather gauntlet's with or with-
out strap wrists and a very large variety
of 2 dome short gloves in different staple
colors. Embroidei-ed points are now much
in vogue and will be a strong feature
next Winter.

For dress wear there is a particularly
effective range of washable kid gloves
in pale pastel shades in 2 dome length
and also a new 1 pearl dome style of
pique kid which features the new
"premier" points down the cenjtre of the
back stitching. These are also shown in
different staple shades.

Washable doeskin still continues to be
in great demand especially in the two
varieties which show black stitching in
either fine or coarse effect upon the out-
side. This particular range of Canadian
made gloves are considered to be leaders
in their field and it is now possible to
sell washable doeskin gloves with ar.
absolute guarantee of satisfaction.

Another leading Montreal house is
adopting the helpful plan of issuing a
leaflet to any glove department which
cares to have it, illustrating by pictures
and by careful instructions the correct
method of putting on and removing kid
gloves. This leaflet is a brief summary
of what every glove saleswoman should
know and will be appreciated by every-
one to whom the selling of gloves pre-
sents the usual problems.

NEW IDEA IN BUYING CLOTHES

C. M. Harrison, in a recent issue of
Printer's Ink, writes an interesting ar-
ticle on getting women to buy clothes
that they need instead of ones which
fashion decrees that they wear. The H.
Black Company, of Cleveland, manufac-
turers of women's garments, have act-
ually begun a campaign along that line.
They claim that women themselves have
taken the first step in the direction of
using common sense as their basis. Pre-
ent-day standards are a hundred times
more desirable from the standpoints of
hygiene, appearance and good sense, than
they were a decade ago. There are two
reasons, he claims, for this change. They
are, the growth of democracy and the
increasing popularity of outdoor life.
The independence of woman has devel-
oped a desire for freedom in the choice
of her clothes.

Women as well as men now see that
fashion is not a mysteriously gifted or-
acle, but is strictly a commercial pro-
position, designed to sell as many clothes
as possible. The present newspaper
campaign of the foregoing company, is
a carefully planned effort, to sell the
women of New York and Chicago and
the vicinities of these great fashion cen-
tres, on the idea of what they want. The
intention is to crystallize the indepen-
dent sentiment that has been rising.
Many a woman may be entertaining
these ideas without realizing that she
is one of a great number.

Dry Goods Hex iew

ACCESSORIES

137

THE RIBBON-HOUSE »/ CANADA

WALTER H: BARRY & CO.

6 St. Helen Street, Montreal, Que.
502 Canada Bldg., Winnipeg, Man

138

ACCESSORIES

Dry Goods Review

THAOC MARK

SPRING
SORTING

Our Salesmen
Are Now Out

Acme Glove Works Limited

Fine Gloves

Montreal

Work Gloves

& Mitts

Work Shirts
Fine Shirts

New Goods

Knit Goods

New Prices

Overalls

Immediate

Deliveries

DRY GOODS REVIEW

141

3 Separate Books

Fraser's General Dry Goods Directories

Until 1916 Men's Wear and Women's Wear Directories were each published twice a
year for the Spring and Fall seasons. To improve the service we then combined the
Spring issues of each book, to form Textile Products Directory large page size.

FRASpS

FRASER'S WOMEN'S WEAR DIRECTORY

Pocket size 430 pages.
EACH JULY.

FRASER'S MEN'S WEAR DIRECTORY

Pocket size 300 pages.
EACH SEPTEMBER.

FRASER'S TEXTILE PRODUCTS DIRECTORY

Large page size 350 pages.

EACH JANUARY.

A combination of Women's Wear and Men's Wear.

Advantages of these Directories

These are the only specialized directories in Canada. If you
need any information about any branch of the General Dry
Goods trades in Canada, if you buy for or from them, if you
sell them or for them, if you want an Agent or Agency, YOU
SHOULD USE THESE BOOKS.

The Subscription Price in Canada is $2.00 a year for the 3
books. Sold separately:—

Textile Products Directory, $2.00; Women's Wear or Men's Wear $1.00 each. Out-
side of Canada, Textile Products $2.00 and Men's Wear and Women's Wear, $1.00
each.

An Approval copy of the 1922 Textile Products Directory (or
1921 WOMEN'S WEAR or MEN'S WEAR Directories) will be
sent on request.

Advertising rates for WOMEN'S WEAR and MEN'S WEAR Directories $40.00 page, TEXTILE PRO-
DUCTS Directory $75.00 page. These books reach every factory and wholesaler in Canada, and prac-
tically every desirable retail buyer in all lines. Over 1,200 advertisers use advertisements below their
particular list to command attention.

Consult Our Free Information Bureau

We also publish Wood Products Directory covering the furniture and lumber trades, $3.00 a copy;
Metal Products Directory, covering the hardware, electrical goods, machinery, etc., $3.00 a copy;
Leather Products Directory, covering the boots and shoes and allied lines, $2.00 a copy. SEND
NAME AND ADDRESS FOR APPROVAL COPIES.

We can tell you about anything made or handled in Canada or abroad. We have on file in each
office Directories, Trade Journals of all kinds, also Telephone Books.

FRASER PUBLISHING COMPANY

Head Office: 128 Bleurv Street, MONTREAL. Tel. Plateau 2038.
Branch Office: 122 Wellington Street West, TORONTO. Tel. Adel. 1030.

Vancouver Representative:

F. E. Payson, 528 Winch Bldg. Tel. Sey. 3920.

Winnipeg Representative:

R. G. Stinson, 611 Boyd Bldg. Tel. A2907.

142

CORSETS AND LINGERIE

Dry Goods Review

Fitting Stout Women with Corsets

Spring Provides Opportunity for Reorganization and Develop-
ment of This Department — Terms to be Avoided in Fitting the
Stout Woman with Corsets — Hints on Fitting Them — Comfort
and Service Will Mean Steady Customers

SPRING provides the corset depart-
ment with a really invaluable op-
portunity of reorganizing and devel-
oping its methods. With the arrival of
warmer weather and the consequent
shedding of heavy garments, women
become immediately conscious of their
needs as regards corse-try which 'be-
comes an annual, problem before the
purchase of the Easter costume is de-
cided upon. And among all others,
there is none who requires more atten-
tion and special study than the large
woman, yet as everyone knows, when
once the corsetiere has gained her con-
fidence she also earns the undying grati-
tude of this customer who becomes ever
afterwards a most profitable and satis-
factory client.

The Stout Woman

If you have not made a special study
of stout women now is the time to im-
prove the opportunity. Do not regard
the fitting of the large woman in the
light of "hard work" but rather frorn,
the stand-point of the customer who
comes to you in real need of your help.
The stout woman cherishes the perfectly
natural desire to become well propor-
tioned and she is usually a little ner-
vous in trying a new corset lest it mar
her figure still more. The corsetiere
who gains her confidence by satisfac-
tory work in fitting, has won over not
only this, customer, but all her stout
friends who will become permanently
linked with the department. Although
the "average figure" trade is the most
dependable part of the business done in
the corset department, yet this type is
apt to purchase here and there as the
fancy prompts them, feeling certain that
they can be fitted perfectly in one store
as we.l as in another. The stout woman
however has just begun to learn that
she can wear stock corsets, the new
models designed by experts who made a
study of scientific corsetry. Thus she
abandons gladly the idea that her cor-
sets must be made to order since she is.
able to obtain equally good service at
short notice from a reliable corsetiere.

So when the stout woman comes to
you for ad.vise, snatch the opportunity
to establish that feeling of confidence on
her part, by the exercise of tact and
sympathy and genuine interest.

Scarcely anyone realizes that the fam-
ous figure of the Venus de Milo is
moulded on lines far from s'.ender,
and yet, the popular opinion regarding
her is that the Venus is divinely pro-
portioned. It is bcause there is so
much grace, dignity and perfect propor-
tion in her figure that it is universally
upheld as a criterion. Therefore there
is no earthly reason why the plump wo-

man should not have a figure of good
proportion. If she has not, it is be-
cause no corsetiere has taken her in
hand.

Things to Avoid

There are two significant points to
bear in mind when the stout woman
comes to you for help in corsetry pro-
blems. The first is to avoid asking her
waist measurement, and the second is
to avoid the use of the words "stout";
"fat;" "big" or "fi.eshy," etc., in fitting
her. All corsetieres will agree that the
commonest fault to be laid at the door of
the average customer is her invariable
habit of demanding a corset a size or
two too small, and therefore, it is per-
fectly useless to ask the size. It is pre-
ferable to secure her attention by tact-
ful interest and slip the tape line about
her waist in such a manner that she is
impressed by your knowledge af the art
of corsetry.

How to Fit

In fitting' the customer in a Spring
corset, having due regard for the fact
that she will not require as heavy a
model for the warmer weather, it is es-
sential to bear in mind one fact which
applies universally to all types of large
woman. See that the abdominal flesh
is entirely supported by the corset, so
that not even a fraction of an inch es-
capes below the front boning. While the
front stays must be long, they must
not be so long that they press into tho
flesh when the wearer is seated. There
should be ample room in the corset for
the uplifted flesh.

Another important point is the even
distribution of the flesh under the cor-
set. Such superfluous flesh cannot be
eliminated but it can be disguised if
the corset holds it evenly from the bot-
tom edge to the top of the bust section.
Should the abdomen be abnormally de-
veloped the corset that is provided with

a special supporting attachment is de-
sirable, providing it is not to hard to
adjust. The new models which show an
elastic section underneath the front are
especially good in this connection as
they do away with the necessity of
wearing a separate bandage.

There are many large women who are
merely stout round the thighs but are
quite thin above the waist. This is
particularly true of women engaged in
sedentary occupations who lack the op-
portunity to exercise much and have
grown fleshy and heavy in consequence.
Here there is difficulty in fitting because
the corset tends to slip up constantly.
Several manufacturers are now showing
new models which care for this very de-
fect, and these are extra long and shap-
ed to fit the thigh, with an extension at
the lower back edge which can be sat
on and thus prevents any "riding up."

Comfort and Service

The one idea to be borne in mind by
the successful saleswoman is that every
corset sold should provide its wearer
with the maximum of comfort and long-
est possible service. The reason why so
many women do not return season after
season to the same corset department is
because they have not had that feeling
of perfect satisfaction and pleasure in
having obtained just the right thing.
The corsetiere who understands her cus-
tomers and is willing to devote just as
much time as they want to their indi-
vidual needs, will not need to rely upon
a card catalogue system to remind them
that it is time to consider the purchase
cif a new corset. When Spring or Fall
returns the satisfied customer goes back
of her own accord and places herself un-
reservedly in the hands of the expert.
She likes to see and try the newest mo-
dels, of course, and nothing is more
fatal than to persuade her to keep on
wearing the same model another sea-
son. Even though it may have been
modified by the makers to conform to
the new silhouette, yet she is not al-
ways convinced that there is nothing
else which will do as well. Of course
there are many women who cannot be
pried loose from old fashioned models
without exceptional difficulty, but it is
always safe to emphasize the decline in
prices and the great improvements in
design and style which have occurred
of late, and the conservative woman will
nearly always allow herself to be fitted
into something more modern, even
though only on trial. By slipping her
dress or blouse over the fitted corset
and demonstrating how much better her
lines are thus, such a customer is gen-
erally convinced.

Dry Goods Review

CORSETS AND LINGERIE

14a

Numerous Imported Lines for Spring

Will Be More Shown Than For Some Time — No Tendency

Toward Elaboration According to Montreal Houses — Some Of

The Newest French Imports — Some of the Newer Shades In

French Lingerie Described

UNDERGARMENTS for 1922 will
not show any tendency towards
elaboration, but there will be a far
greater amount ef imported lines avail-
able than has been the case in the past.
And to those buyers who desire to feat-
ure the more delicate and intricate speci-
mens of hand-made lingerie in their
Spring disp'ays,, Chere will be much of
interest in the exhibitions of such goods
now being shown in Montreal. Accord-
ing to exports in under-apiparel, the vari-
ous models now on display at the Ecoles
Des Hautes Etudes in Montreal, which
have been sent out by several reading
Parisian manufacturers are among the
most charming and original in their re-
spective classes of any such lines yet seen
in this city. Apart from the exquisite
workmanship and unusual designs of
the different garments, there is a dis-
tinct "ch ; c" and an indefinable atmos-
sphere about them, which identifies them
as being Parisian and therefore correct.
Although most of the dainty undergar-
ments are shown in sets of three pieces,
it is not necessary to buy them in this
way. But so unusual are the designs of
each garment and so diferent are the
trimmings that few buyers can resist
the temptation of featuring a complete
display in each case.

The undergarments are of silken fa-
brics and cottons, including crepe de
chines and fine nets and sheerest batiste,
handkerchief linens and nainsook. The
predominating note is simplicity of line
but close inspection reveals the fact that
the elaboration is marvelously done, so
that the perfection of the embroidery is
almost unnoticeable.

Bias Folds Add Color Contrast

The favorite garment evidently is the
straight chemise which is shown in a
multitude of designs mostly with the
straight top finished with narrow
shoulder straps either of ribbon or self
fabric. A particularly charming finish
is a narrow fold of pasteMinted fabric
used to edge the top and straps of a
white garment. Chemises and camisoles
of flesh crepe de chine are charming
when edged with mauve or blue, while
there are many all white garments which
show the edging in either of these colors.
Lace is not often used, but in the more
elaborate sets where it is employed the
preferred varieties are valenciennes,
point de Paris and Binche lace. By far
and away the most beautiful finish is
the edge or insert of fine Bretonne net
upon which a buttonholed or appliqued
edge is applied worked on the garment
itself. Exquisitely dainty are the straight
and simple hems of the undergarments
thus finished, and besides the unusual-

ly sheer effect of the net, the handwork
variously carried out, has an appear-
ance of altogether unusual charm. One
can imagine in examining the infinitesi-
mal stitches which have gone into these
models, that they were done by the
nimble fingers of French women and
girls who have made the art of needle-
work something finer and more beauti-
ful than could be expressed anywhere
else. France has certainly excelled in
the matter of exquisite lingerie for near-
ly three centuries and it is no wonder
that her needlewomen inherit gifts in
this direction which seem impossible to
duplicate in other countries.

The new vest and drawer sets are ex-
ceptionally effective, featuring a wide
diversity of edge finishes in novel de-
signs. There is much fine featherstitch -
ing, novel fagoting effects, French knots
and the new "worm" stitch. But the
tailored style is pre-eminent.

The various French exhibitors make a
specialty of lovely underslips for wearing
underneath sheer frocks. One especial-
ly striking model is of accordeon pleated
crepe de chine with bouffant tunic effect
of fine net also pleated the edges of
which were picoted. Another all white
one had an extra hem fagoted on, and
its shoulder straps were composed of
hand-made rosebuds upon ribbon. Much
flesh crepe de chine was used for these
slips, decorated by drawn work in the
usual effects.

For Miladi's Kours of Ease

Negligees also almost defy description
on account of their individuality and
exquisite workmanship. One model of
baby blue crepe de chine was designed
on straight simple lines with a hand-
made lattice-work banding as its sole
ornament together with a girdle of
braided self fabric. Its wide flowing
sleeves were particularly graceful. To be
worn with these models were shown
numberless adorable little boudouir caps
of various laces, nets, and quillines, made
up with handmade flowers and little
flutings of ribbon. Caps with wired brims
and wings were especially dainty and
unusual.

A magnificent pyiama lounging cos-
tume was shown developed in black satin
for the trousers, which were drawn in
at the ankle with elastic, while the slip-
over mandarin coat was of maize color-
ed silk, daintly beaded and embroidered
in black.
Frencn Lingerie Features New Shapes

All these colorful models come in time
to supply a long felt want in Canada,
where manufacturers are reluctant to
make up much lingerie in colors such as
are prominently featured in the United

States, since they fear that the demand
will be only ephemeral and localized. It
is impossible they say to purchase the
right materials in such shades as the
new orchid, jade and sunburst tones. The
reasons given are that in the United
States the large field of consumers who
are willing to spend money on these
novelties warrant the risk, but here in
Canada, the making of pastel tinted un-
derwear is a precarious venture. Cana-
dian makers of course are turning out
large quantities of flesh colored "undies"
because they see that this shade has be-
come a staple. The consumer who com-
plains that she cannot purchase origin-
al or novel creations here, will therefore
find in the new French models the very
thing she has been seeking so long.

Princess Mary Sponsors Blue

Rumour has it that blue it to take a
sudden leap ahead in the matter of pop-
ularity for lingerie, due perhaps to the
fact that Princess Mary has ordered blue
to be used in the decoration of her
trousseau pieces. Now that blue dyes
are more durable and washable, there
is no doubt that it will find a certain
amount of favor. Princess Mary has
ordered all her lingerie in the finest of
Irish linen, to be trimmed with Irish
point lace featuring the shamrock mot-
if. Nightgowns will be short of sleeve
and will be ribboned in pale blue, which
is her favorite color, and some sets will
show appliqued coin dots in blue linen
while others will be simply lace trimmed.
There will be six pieces of each article
in her trousseau, each of which will be
made up on the very simplest designs.

A Practical Novelty

A very clever idea recently introduced
in England and which may possibly be
seen over here shortly is the "unmade"
lingerie. This means that sets of three
pieces, including gown, chemise and
knickers are sold with the seams unsewn,
so that they can be adjusted to the ac-
tual figure, only the embroidery being
completed. This is generally a simple
scalloped edge with a tiny motif in the
centre, and the fabric is most often a
fine cotton crepe. This is duplicated in the
idea already so well known over here,
of the embroidery outfits offered by
fancy work departments which however
reverse the plan and offer stamped gar-
ments already mad'3 up.

Early reports from Montreal makers
state that the bloomer craze has been
growing steadily all month, and the new
models in Jap silks or crepe de chine are
sold right out. The satin varieties, on
account of their greater cost, are not
selling so quickly on the average.

144

CORSETS AND LINGERIE

Dry Goods Review

Demand for Pyjamas Steadily Growing

Toronto and Western Coast Lead in Demand — Black Will Be

Strong This Season — Vogue for Undergarments in Sets is Strong

— Lingerie Manufacturers Are Encouraged by Response of the

Trade to Their New Garments

RETAILERS say that women are
asking for pyjamas more than they
ever did before on this side of the
border. In Toronto and on the western
coast, particularly in Vancouver, there
is a big demand for them. Manufac-
turers are devoting their energies al-
most entirely to the two-piece outfits in
the silk pyjamas. One merchant believes
that there is a big field for two-piece
pyjamas in the cotton and other inex-
pensive materials. Many women who
cannot afford to buy them in silk, would
wear pyjamas instead of nightdresses, if
they could buy them in any but the single
garment, which is rarely comfortable.
Black Almost Certain This Season
A Toronto manufacturer informed
Dry Goods Review, that he thinks Can-
adian women will favor black much more
than they didi last Fall. New York had a
great run in the dark colors last Fall but
women on this side preferred the pinks
and yellows. One maker says that he
sold only nine black nightdresses from
coast to coast last Fall but that he ex-
pects great things of black this Spring
in almost all the lingerie lines. Some of
the black garments now ready for the
trade are: camisoles, bloomers, step-ins,
knickers, chemises, pyjamas and night-
dresses. A few have relieving touches in
bright-colored ribbons and laces but the
majority are shown in sombre all-black.
Importers say that Paris has completely
succumbed to black in lingerie and that
New York is featuring it in its January
sales.

Bui't-up Shoulders on Camisoles

Manufacturers of lingerie have found
that the trade welcome the return to the
built-up shoulder in garments. The strap
at best is not as comfortable or as dur-
able while the surplice effect made of the
goods and narrowing to a point at the
shoulder is very neat without being any
more in evidence. These are now made in
nightdresses and chemises as well.

There is a great tendency among mak-
ers of fine lingerie, to follow the lead
of New York in making garments in
sets. It is now possible to obtain a set
consisting of the following three out-
fits: 1. nightdress or pvjamas, 2. cami-
sole and knickers or chemise and bloom-
ers, and 3. step-ins. These should prove
very acceptable to the trade for Easter
gifts and for June bride sets.

No one type of garment seems to take
prefei'ence. There are tailor-mades with
only neat hemstitching being featured
by some makers while others are holding
to the val. lace and hand-embroidery.
French and Phillipine lingerie is as good
as ever in the cotton underwear and do-
mestic muslins are certain to have the

The R. and J. CHILD'S WAIST,

shoivn by courtesy of the Parisian

Corset Company of Quebec.

The accompanying diagram il-
lustrates a new style of child's
waist which has several practical
features, chief of which is the fact
that it has adjustable garters at-
tached, doing away with the nec-
essity of safety pins and with a
consequent saving of expense to
mothers who are not obliged to
purchase garters and attach than.
The garters attached to this ivaist
are uniform and can be extended
to any length required, so that if
the child's hose to-day should hap-
pen to be a little shorter than
those worn yesterday, the garter
is instantly adjusted to fit. An
additional point is the fact that
underneath the garter is a protect-
ing pad of material which prev-
ents any metal touching the flesh,
and further, the shoulder straps
are designed in such a manner as
to take all the strain from the
garters on the shoulders, as it
should be, allowing far perfect
erection of the body. This wais*
can be retailed for 70 cents com-
plete, jvhich means that it is more
economical in the end than buying
waist and garters separately.

vogue prophesied for them last Spring.

As to the fabric used, crepe de chine
and satin are both good. There is prob-
ably not as much georgette shown as in
other years except in camisole trim-
mings. Radium is coming to the fore very
fast.

One manufacturer has devised a splen-
did scheme in the camisoles he has made
this Srring. The trade have always com-
plained about the width of these at the
top unless an elastic is run through. An
elastic all round pulls the garment out
of shape, often causing the pattern in
the front to be hidden, so he has placed

the elastic only under the arms where
the camisole is very loose. It holds its
shape well this way.

The first one-piece slips for wear
under sheer overdresses, were for the
most part, of the dark shades for use
with black and brown tunics. These
have had an excellent beginning for a
new garment and manufacturers are
now encouraged to make them up in
brighter shades to be worn with the or-
gandy dresses next Summer. One man-
ufacturer is turning out these costume
slips on a new style, it hangs from the
shoulder, a great improvement on the
one which shows a waist-line through
the loose-fitting tunic or overdress of
radium.

Negligees, for the most part shew the
long-waisted silhouette. Irish or filet
lace is used on the more expensive
models while val. is seen on those design-
ed for the January and February sales.
Pin tucks are seen a great deal and there
is a great prevalence for drawn-work,
which is both machine and hand done.
Canadian Manufacturers Pleased

Those who are interested in the pro-
gress of the fancy lingerie lines in Tor-
onto, say that they are very much en-
couraged with the treatment they are
receiving from the trade. Retailers in
this country now believe that they can
turn out garments which are the equals
of those made anywhere else. Lingerie
manufacturers are very wide-awake as
a rule. They send their designers down
to New York every five or six weeks and
the result is that they are not very far
behind in the styles shown on the other
side. Even the largest retailers in this
country are becoming more and more
satisfied with the goods shown by travel-
ers for our Canadian manufacturers.

That a style revue need not be just the
usual fashion parade has been successfully
proved by the Lasalle & Koch Co., Toledo,
Ohio, in the semi-annual children's style
revues which it has presented during the
last few years. Last Spring, when the
affair came very soon after President Hard-
ing's inauguration, a miniature White House
was used on the stage as a background, and
the authentic Harding Blue was introduced
in youthful attire by the Harding Blue
Kiddies.

For the Fall revue last year, the idea of art
in children's dress was taken as a theme and
a perfect replica of the Art Museum, Toledo's
most beloved and representative building,
complete even to its pillars, its broad marble
steps and the hospitable lighting of its corn-
ice, greeted the audience of 3,000 or more
which gathered in Lasalle & Koch's Audit-
orium Saturday afternoon, Nov. 19, to see
the much-heralded revue.

Dry Goods Review

COR.SETS AND LINGERIE

145

Women Still Wear Ill-Fitting Corsets

Manufacturers Say Harm Done To Trade When Proper Fit

Not Given to Customer — Increasing Orders For White — Cor-

selette Gaining Favor in Canada — Spring Designs Give Slim

Long Line Effect — Bloomer Business Still Good.

WHERE are the dollar corsets
gone? One can go to almost any
store in this country today and
see very few counters carrying the cheap
corsets of a few years ago. Manufac-
turers say that even in the very worst
months last Fall, orders for low-priced
corsets were exceptional. One traveler
explains that Canadian women have
learned the value of comfort. They
know that badly-cut and badly-boned
corsets are not comfortable. The luxur-
ies to which they accustomed them-
selves during the war, extended to the
wearing of good corsets, and now,
though money is tighter than it was for
several years prior to 1914, they will not
buy poor ones. Of course there has been
considerable reduction made in price
since January last year but there is no
corset turned out which compares with
the inexpensive ones of the past. A trav-
eler for a large corset manufactui*er in
Toronto says that, where eight years ago
he sold 100 dozen at four dollars and
a half, he now gets orders for fifty
dozen at eighteen dollars a dozen. His
firm try to make as little as possible of
the type of corset which goes to the re-
tailer for price under twelve dollars a
dozen.

Women Still Wearing Badly Fitted
Corsets

The manager of a Toronto manufac-
turing house, says that it is sometimes
discouraging to corset-makers to see
the numbers of corsets still being sold
in this country without being fitted or
with an incorrect fitting. Nine out of
ten pair returned to the maker, he de-
clares were the wrong size or the wrong
type of corset for the women to whom
they were sold. There are not many im-
perfect corsets being made today. It
does not pay. Yet, try as they will, manu-
facturers are encountered on all sides
with merchants who do not place enough
stress on fitting. For one thing, he says,
all saleswomen should know that there
should not be a greater space than an
inch and a half for the lace in a back-
laced corset. This can be made a little
narrower or a little wider at top or
bottom but a corset which is drawn in
at both top and bottom, will always
strain the bones at the centre. More-
over he believes that there is still a
great tendency to sell a size or two too
small.

White Coming Back

Orders for the last few weeks point to
a return to white, in corsets. Pink is still
very strong in the fancy lines but there
seems to be a tendency to ask for the

heavy white coutil just now. Women
who want white, do not like brocades or
stripes. In fact the only white fancy
corsets that are made, are for brides.
This applies particularly to Quebec. In
Ontario and the West brides still like
pink. There is, moreover, a stronger lik-
ing for silk stripes than for brocades,
although one manufacturer believes that
the brocades will outlast the stripes in
the long run.

Corselette Gaining Favor in Canada

The corselette was invented as an an-
tidote to the "corsetless" figure craze
which gained such a foothold in the
United States last year. Women who
could dispense with the corset, felt that
they needed a fitted undergarment of
some kind.

A garment was devised which had a
fitted bandeau body, a panel front and
hose suporters. This was accepted to an
amazing extent not only in the United
States but in this country as well, for
while Canadian women did not adopt the
fad for going without corsets, they were
glad to find something to take their plac?
during the summer months. The corsel-
ette and the girdle are also responsible
for bringing back the desire for cor-
sets by women who have discarded them.
These garments are not as expensive
as corsets — a very good line can be ob-
tained this spring for' $15 a dozen. Man-
ufacturers declare that the retail trade
seems ready to accept them for late
Spring and Summer business.

Three Types of Corsets Shown

There is one note in common in the
lines offered for Spring — they are all de-
signed to give the slim long line. The
elastic topped corset, which is unusual-
ly popular among buyers, is shown in
plain wash satin and in brocades. It
comes in medium and long skirt models,
reaches slightly above the waist-line and
is lightly boned. It is therefore not par-
ticularly suited to the stout woman. The
one designed particularly for the heavy
figure, slopes from a low bust to a high
back. In this type there seems to be a
preference for the back-laced corset al-
though some stout women still prefer
the front-laced model. For very slight
figures, there is a corset which has only
one flexible bone in front.

Bloomers Still Good

Toronto manufacturers are still con-
fident of the possibilities of the bloomer
business. They are making thsm even
more extensive y than they did last Fall.
The brightest of shades are b^ing shown
to the trade to encourage Spring busi-

ness. Some of the colors are: nile green,
olive green, spring beauty, pumpkin and
gold. There is as well, a call for the sand
and taupe shades.

While many of the underwear lines
have become just Christmas and Easter
sellers, because so many women like to
make their silk garments for personal
use, bloomers are now considered an all-
year round staple. It is no doubt because
women find that these are not as easy
to make. Almost all the manufacturers
are showing styles which have a gusset
right down to the knee.

There is an increasing demand for
loose-fitting bloomers. In fact the largest
sizes are now bought by very small
women. This is because they feel that
some fulness needed to take the place of
the discarded underskirt. The garment
which comes just above the knee has
given place in most of the Spring bloom-
ers to the one which extends for an inch
or two below.

One manufacturer believes that the
bloomer trade may not last longer than
April or May this year, because many
women complain they are warm for
Summer wear and there is therefore a
general attempt to promote the loose
knickers on the part of wide-awake de-
signers. In the meantime, there is a big
field for the bloomer not only in plain
jersey, silk and jap jersey but in wash-
satins and in sateen.

A MISTAKE

"The greatest mistake m advertising
is boosting the goods above their value.
An advertisement is simply an invita-
tion to the public to inspect the goods
for sale, and if they are found to be
wanting the advertisement is wasted.
The merchant who misplaces his adver-
tising is a fool," said C. H. Mackintosh,
president of Associated Advertising
Clubs of the World. "There is nothing-
more detrimental to any business than
to overrate ts wares. It is absurd to
advertise forty-dollar va'ues at fifteen
dollars. No sane person would believe
it, and it is dishonest, as are always
comparative prices. The public is quite
satisfied to receive a full round dollar's
value for a dollar. -

"Advertisers must tell the truth, or
the money expended is wasted. It is the
more stupid for a merchant to misplace
his advertising - for he must remain on
the spot, whereas the crook who places
his fraudulent stocks, by advertising-
can make his 'e'ean-up' and get away
from the place."

146 CORSETS AND LINGERIE Dry Goods Review

Front Lace Models That We
Like To Recommend

Jfjarher's

Corsets

We have numerous styles in front lace as well as back lace corsets,
but there are always certain models that meet with the greatest
response. The four styles listed below are such. These are all
rubber top corsets, but others equally satisfactory in standard
designs, or semi-rubber, are carried in prices from $21.00 per
dozen as high as $48.00.

If you are looking for moderate priced front lace corsets of guar-
anteed quality, we recommend a trial order on any of the follow-
ing styles.

Style 36 — Pink Coutil, Fancy Style 909 — Pink Brocade, Fancy

rubber top. For slender figures. rubber top. For average figures.

Sizes 20-28, Price $21 per doz. Sizes 20-30. Price $30 per doz.

Style 549 — Pink Coutil, Fancy Style 547 — Pink Coutil. Surgi-

rubber top. Exclusive Warner cal Elastic top. Special Warner

feature "Extension back." Aver- features of "Anchor" and "Dia-

age figures. Sizes 22-32. Price mond" elastic gores in skirt.

$30 per doz. Sizes 22-30. Price $36 per doz.

F. O. B. Montreal. 3% 10 days, 2Y 2 % 30 days. Net 60 days

****

The Warner Brothers Company

356 St. Antoine St. Montreal, P. O-

Dry Goods Review

FANCY GOODS AND TOYS

147

The "Julian Sale" Travellers

Are Away With A Great Line

Silk
Bags

Beautiful effects in
satin stripes,
mounted on nar-
row gilt and silver-
finished frames.
Black, brown,
blue and taupe —
tassels are passe.

Leather
Bags

In Pin Seal, Beav-
er Calf and Mor-
occo leathers.
Small pouchy ef-
fects. Mounted on
narrow gilt and
silver - finished
frames. Colors
well assorted.

Monte Carlo
Bags

The newest novel-
ty in bags. A
special feature of
the "Julian Sale"
line— made in octo-
pus, alligator and
spider web leath-
ers.

New Samples in

BAGS

PURSES

And other lines of Leather
Goods and Novelties

Our travellers will wait on you in
due course — they have never
started away on a trip with a
more attractive collection of
samples than their trunks contain
to-day. Bigger assortments,
greater variety, finer quality,
more novelties, better values, all
manufactured under ideal condi-
tions in our own great sun-lighted
factories.

Prompt and painstaking service
is the watchword. Order through
the "Julian Sale" traveller, or
phone, wire or write.

Suede
Bags

fine
in the
pleated
Lined
colored
mostly
frames,
shades

line, made
lone-piece
effects,
with high-
satins —
covered
Newest
and colors.

Swagger
Bags

Still the very popu-
lar bag. Made in
the new octopus,
frog and Monte
Carlo grain leath-
ers. Blue, brown,
grey, black.

Party
Boxes

Meeting the call
for more popular
price lines.
Double handles,
swagger styles.
Fancy leathers,
novelty shapes —
good color range.

The Julian Sale Leather Goods Company

Limited
600 King Street West, Toronto

148

FANCY GOODS AND TOYS

Dry Goods Pur lew

Canadian Manufacturers Making Distinct

Progress in Ivory Ware and Toys

Travellers Starting Out With Excellent Ranges This Month
Including Some Worth- While Novelties in Ivory Goods — A New
Comb on the Market — Plea For Open Mind on Part of Canadian
Merchant With Regard to Canadian-Made Toys — Progress

Reported

THE manufac-
turers of ivory
goods in Tor-
onto are sending
out their travellers
this month with a
splendid new range
of goods. They say o<*>°»oo,
that this line is no <0 ^ o
longer a Christmas
specialty. The re-
tail trade ar.e anx-
ious to promote

sales all the year because toilet arti-
cles of ivory can so easily be worked
into a chain of sales. A few years ago
only jewellers and the largest depart-
ment stores carried the more expensive
ivory goods but now^a-days most gen-
eral stores, druggists and fancy goods
shops have them. Of course, the de-
cline in the demand for silver and ebony
was a big factor in promoting ivory.
Canadian manufacturers have made every
effort to have their goods known as
first-class. In fact several factories have
stopped making the cheaper grades and
are allowing American firms to special-
ize in them. Wholesale houses in this
country are very glad to allow the
name of the maker on the ivory they
handle, instead of their own stamp as
they used to insist upon. They try to
obtain their stock from manufacturers
who make every line, so that they can
supply their customers with the same
brand from year to year.
Canadian Workmen do Excellent Work
The manager of a factory which now
makes more than three hundred articles
of ivory, declares that one of the
achievements of which he is most proud
is that he has developed his factory al-
together from the work of Canadians.
He declares that the Canadian artisan
is the peer of any in the world for ar-
tistic taste. The most intricate things
can be accomplished by our men, pieces
which rival those of the French, who
were the first to bring ivory toilet ar-
ticles into this country.

Work of this nature is very difficult
to handle. It requires a great deal of
experiment and patience. The machinery
required is original and the initial in-
vestment very large. The fact that all
the factories which are making ivory in
this country have been very successful,
is saying something for Canadian in-
genuity and industry.

Severa' New Lines This Spring
Travellers are carrying with them this
month a new ivory comb which is sup-

erior to anything yet offered. It is
very flexible as well as strong and is of
three types: the all-coarse, the all-fine
and one which is coarse and fine. Some
very artistic picture frames are among
the new lines. Salesmen are going out
with a determined effort to impress on
the trade the selling points of ivory
under the headings, "dignified, sanitary
and indestructible." They are also
specializing in the DuBarry or the De
Fleury pattern, which is panelled. It is
made up in nearly all the articles nec-
essary for toilet or travelling.

One manufacturer pointed out to Dry
Goods Review, that if retail salesmen
would give the following argument to
customers who still think that good
ivory or French ivory is actually the
elephant's tusk, they would carry a
great deal of conviction; the elephant's
tusk, if made into toilet articles, would
curl back into its original shape after a
few weeks' use, it would turn yellow and
split into streaks as a billiard ball does.

The same informant says that people
want Canadian materials as never be-
fore. How long this desire on the part
of the public will last, he does not know
but he believes that manufacturers,
wholesalers and retailers have for the
year 1922 an opportunity to talk the
products of their country as they never
had before, and probably never will
again.

Will Tortoise-Shell Sell This Year?

Toilet goods of tortoise were a big
feature in some cities of the United
States this year. Canadian women did
not fancy them though several manu-
facturers prepared for some business
of this kind. Two makers in Toronto
say that next Christmas will see a big
rush on tortoise-shell. Very little ad-
ditional expense is required in the man-
ufacture of it, because practically the
same process is required as in ivory.
Celluloid is the base, which is worked
with cotton into a chemical composition.
This becomes a tissue-paper-like sub-

stance which is
treated with alco-
hol and camphor.
The original ingre-
dients are colored
in making tortoise
instead of white as.
in the manufacture
of ivory.

Is the Trade Giving

Candian Toys a

Fair Chance?

Visits to manufacturers of toys in this
country result in various expressions of
opinion as to the attitude of the trade
toward their goods. Some houses de-
clare that the retail and wholesale trade
are anxious to sell their lines, others
say that the fact that toys are Canadian-
made places them at a disadvantage.
Some merchants think that all foreign
toys, whether they come from the
United States, Germany, England ov
Japan are of a better grade than
our own. One Toronto man declares
that this has had the best possible
effect on manufacturers. They have
struggled during the last two years as
they never would have under less trying
conditions. He says that if the retail
merchant will only take an open at-
titude as to the respective values of toys
made in every country, the Canadian
maker will soon prove that those of this
country are as good and even better in
some of the lines now specialized on.

One manufacturer believes that the
day is far distant when Canadians can
turn out mechanical toys which will
rival those of other countries. Most
countries which are now making them,
depend only on home consumption for
their products and are satisfied if those
which they export, obtain a price which
will cover the overhead. American
manufacturers, for example, have 110
million people to sell to at a profit and
are satisfied, for a few years to come,
with the publicity which is obtained by
exporting them to Canada. In this
country, our manufacturers would have
only 8 million to draw profit from and,
provided they could get into the export
market, the toys sent out of here would
only sell at actual cost when laid down.
Why does this not work out in every
line of toy or in fact in all Canadian
products? asked Dry Goods Review.
Our informant, who has attempted me-
chanical toys and given them up, says
that the initial cost in the manufacture
of this line, because of the dies needed.
(Continued on page 154)

Dry Goods Review

NOTIONS

153

TRIMMINGS

Cords Ornaments

Girdles Tassels

Fringes and Yard Trimmings

FOR SPRING 1922

We have anticipated the demand
£or Trimmings in all the newest
and most popular colors for the
coming season.

The quality of our goods cannot
be equalled and the prices are fair.
You cannot make a mistake by hav-
ing a quantity of "Moulton" Trim-
mings.

The demand is sure to be great,
so order now !

THE MOULTON
MFG. CO., LIMITED

4 Inspector St., Montreal

ONTARIO and QUEBEC: K. S Adcoek and A. W. Wcod-

house. Head Office, Montreal; J. Rutherford, 23 Scott St.,

Toronto.

WESTERN PROVINCES: Cleat & Co.-Robt Cleat. 410

Crown Bldgr.. Vancouver; A. E. Partridge, 708 Builders'

Exchange, Winnipeg.

MARITIME PROVINCES: F. L. Wright.

WM. E. WRIGHT SAYS:

"In 1921 I was so busy talking to our friends
about the way we manufacture WRIGHT'S
Bias Tape that I had no time to speak of a
subject very interesting to us all — the marked
increase in home-sewing during the last two
or three years.

"The reason why it is worth our while to make
WRIGHT'S Bias Tapes just as well as we
know how is that home-sewing is a growing
art.

"This fact is of great importance throughout
the dry goods trade. If women really are
going to sew more and more and better and
better from year to year, it means enlarged
departments for piece goods, larger sales for
paper patterns, trimmings, notions and every-
thing that goes into a garment. To us it
means that women will want tapes in a great
variety of widths, fabrics and colors and that
they will want them in greater volume than at
any previous time.

"In 1921 the movement took us by surprise.
Women used six times the normal volume of
WRIGHT'S Bias Fold Tape. This kept us
jumping and kept some of our friends writ-
ing letters about deliveries.

"Happily we've caught up with this big de-
mand and can look 1922 in the face with a
clear conscience."

Send for Color Card of

WRIGHTS BIAS FOLD TAPE

Showing our full line of fast colored percales, also Wright's E-Z-
Trim. You will find this card to be a great convenience in making
up your orders. It shows our 12 plain and 6 striped colors of Tape
and fi colors of E-Z-Trim.

Some'.hing new and useful for the Notion Department. Sample card
showing colors sent on request.

Wm. E. Wright & Sons Co., Mfrs.

315-317 Church Street
New York

Agencies

CHICAGO
R. C. Taft
223 W. Jackson B'.vd.

ST. LOUIS

L. F. Sherman

613 N. Broadway

PHILADELPHIA

Jas. F. McCarriar

1011 Chestnut Street

WRIGHT'S

BIAS FOLD TAPE

It turns itself

In U. S. Pat. Off.

154

NOTIONS

Dry Goods Review

Demand for New British Crochet Hook

Will Enable Woman to Turn Out Uniform Edging— New Dress
Fastener Being Shown— Button Prices 40 Per Cent Lower Than
inl920— Possibilities of Notion Department in 1922— Should be

Kept Well Forward

\ CCORDING to a representative
f~\ of a leading Montreal wholesale
k firm, there is a heavy demand for

British-made crochet hooks, especially
the new style which will enable the
woman who crochets to turn out edging
that is uniform throughout the entire
length. The fault of ordinary hooks
has been due to the fact that it was
impossible to draw the little loop up
tight enough on a straight handle, and
with this new improved hook, it is now
possible to achieve an even, firm chain
without any need of tiring the hand by
extra pressure at each stitch. These
new hooks which are commonly known
as Roma hooks, are selling rapidly and
cost no more than other kinds. Buy-
ers of these goods should be on their
guard in ordering against falling into
the error of stocking the same sizes in
both American and British made hooks.
British manufacturers always number
their goods from to 8, while American
makers feature sizes ranging from 1
to 16.

Many people are unaware of the fact
that the finest steel needles cost a high
price because of the fact that it re-
quires skilled labor to put the eyes in
accurately and this class of labor in
England is very highly paid. It is not
so much the price of steel that counts
in fixing the price of $1 per thousand
which is quoted today, but rather the
intricate process essential to the ex-
act placing of the eye at the end of the
tiny bit of steel, a process which is
done by hand and is therefore slow in
comparison with the operations usually
turned out by machinery. Needles
which have large eyes can of course, be
turned out by machines, but in the very
fine sorts, girls have to adjust them
to a minute fraction of an inch, under-
neath the machine which stamps the
eye exactly in the centre. Japanese
needles can be secured for as little as
thirty cents a thousand. Steel pins
have declined in price but brass pins re-
main at their former level.

There is a new style dress fastener
now on the market which is proving to
be a boon to home dressmakers. Its
particular advantage lies in the fact
that it can be sewn to the garment
right through the centre of the dome.
The greatest demand just now is for
the style which can be sewn on either
side and which lies perfectly flat on
the material so that it can be ironed
over without leaving a tell tale mark.
Judging from the reports that larger
quantities of wash goods and summer
fabrics are selling than usual, it ap-
pears probable that dress fasteners will

be among the notions that sell readily
when once the season opens.

In buttons it is said that shirt pearls
are in the greatest demand in sizes 18
and 25, but low priced goods are be-
coming very scarce, so much so as to
cause considerable conjecture as to how
to fill the orders coming in. There is
an absolute shortage also in leather
buttons, especially in the band made
variety of which there are none to be
had. In regulation composition or
ivory fancy buttons the demand is en-
tirely centered upon sizes 24 and 34 in
practically every fashionable color. The
sew-through style is very popular on
account of the increasing vogue for
tailored or sports clothes with which
the fancy button looks out of place.
But the demand for shank buttons is
still large in certain quarters for the
trimming of coats and spring suits of
the more dressy type. Tiny trimming
buttons are quiet just now but enquir-
ies are coming in for a novelty drop
button, shaped like an olive, which is
particularly smart on dresses.

English made jumper braids are ex-
pected to be heavy sellers this month
as well as black military braids in
widths varying from 6 to 14 inches.
Fashion decrees lavish use of these
black military braids on cloth frocks
and suitsso that early orders are ad-
vised if quantities are wanted. Rick
rack braids are being called for now in
large quantities especially in medium
sizes in the leading spring colors and
the preference is shown to imported
braids as being of better quality and
durability.

Prices on buttons have dropped about
40% lower than 1920 prices for the
reason that demand fell off from the
clothing manufacturers last year and
the button manufacturers decided to
keep their plants going as long as pos-
sible making reserve stock. Button
operators are experts whom it is un-
desirable to lose and thus the action
taken by the makers was a wise meas-
ure. Now that the large stocks of un-
sold clothing on the shelves have been
materially reduced and retailers are
now in a good position to buy, it is ex-
pected that the demand for buttons will
again spring up from all quarters. The
manufacturers have taken up the
question of export business with great
success and what they cannot dispose
of in this country they can find a good
market for elsewhere.

In summing up the general trend of
spring business in notions in an inter-
view with Dry Goods Review, a Mont-
real wholesaler emphasized the point
that notions can be made to be the piv-

otal point around which a business can
be built up. "A display table about
6x3, with a space for reserve under-
neath or behind, in charge of a capable
wide-awake girl, can do as much busi-
ness as one ten times the size, provided
that just the goods that the public
wants are displayed and the location is
right at the front door," explained this
man. "I know of small stores which
are doing a greater business in notions
than many of the largest department
stores for the reason that they have
played up their notions prominently,
stocked the newest things always and
kept sizes and colors, etc., complete.
The consequence is that women will go
out of their way to go to this little store
because they are certain that they can
get what they want and can purchase
conveniently without having to spend a
lot of time locating the department.
Notions can roll up big sales totals if
you give them the right opportunity, but
you cannot expect to make a success of
this department in 1922 if the policy
of keeping them out of sight and show-
ing old fashioned goods is pursued. It
pays to be original in selling notions
and it is just as easy to sell quantities
as it is to sell single articles. The best
method to follow is to display as much
as possible out on tables so that cus-
tomers can pick up what they want
themselves. This is the age of table
displays and price tickets and the
under-glass method of display is as out
of date as are the wax flowers that
used to be considered the ornament of
every parlor. Now is the time to re-
plenish notions and small wares be-
cause prices are at their lowest during
the month of January. Definite ad-
vances may be expected in February
and March in most lines, so that no
better time than the present can be
looked for in which to check up pres-
ent stock and send in orders for new
goods."

CANADIAN MANUFACTURERS

(Continued from page 148)
is too large for the field from which
profit is derived, as explained above. On
the other hand makers of articles like
games, wooden toys, dolls, etc., can keep
their prices low «nough to meet foreign
competition, because they have to de-
pend on quantity of production alone
and not on initial costs. One of the lines
made here, which has been able to give
better prices than any yet imported, is
garden sets. Home consumption has en-
abled manufacturers to set a price which
is several cents below foreign toys of
the same kind.

Dry Goods Review

NOTIONS

155

"A SHRINE OF BEAUTY."
A toilet goods department ivhich presents an unusually attractive appearance. The centre display is carried out in
purple ayid gold and each line is grouped in unit pyramids built up about, the violet shaded lamps. The display is a
permanent feature of the Jas. Ogilvy store of Montreal and was arranged by Mrs. Morris, manager of the section.

Inflated Pig

Toy Novelty

Proved to be Popular Seller for Holiday

Season — Other Features to be

Introduced

One of the amusing- novelties of the
Christmas season was the range of ba.-
loon toys put out by a Montreal manu-
facturer just before the holiday season.
No festivity is complete without a
number of these amusing trifles which
come in the shape of pigs, balls, clowns,
nigger babies and even airships. Some
of the balloons are fitted with valves
so that they will move quickly over a
smooth surface, others are supplied with
a "squawker" which emits a consider-
able volume of noise. The pigs are per-
haps the most papular of the present
line and are to be shown in very large
sizes in the near future, which will mea-
sure as much as a yard in length. These
are fitted with four wooden legs and
rubber ears and decidedly realistic,
whether fitted with the va.ve for motion

or a squawker. The air ships or toy
dirigibles are quite large and impressive
in appearance, being supplied in sets
to be inif.ated by the purchase and fit-
ted with propeller and wings, and even
the Union Jack upon a tiny mast. These

toy dirigibles are priced at $24 a gross
and are being quickly distributed all ov-
er Canada for holiday setting.

Another novelty introduced by the
same firm is the covered balloon balls
which rang'e from (3V2 inches in diameter
to 12 inches and are covered in multi-
colored cotton, in sectional effect, giv-
ing a gay and even gaudy appearance.
These are greatly in demand for child-
ren as wed as for grown-ups at their
holiday revels, and refihs can be had for
the cotton covers so that the latter can
be used again and again if the balloon
breaks.

THE TOY BALLOON THAT TOOK THE
COUNTRY BY STORM THIS WINTER

Just introduced to Canada by Robertson
and Murphy Ltd., of Montreal, amd the
rage at entertainments of all sorts for both
adults and children. The pigs are of two
kinds, squealing or walking and come in
two sues, both fitted with wooden legs and
rubber ears. The tail is formed by the
mouth piece.

The first determined attempt on the part
of Canadian wool growers to compete on the
overseas market with the wool of Australia,
New Zealand, South Africa, and South
A merica is being made by actual sales in the
London wool market. The first shipments
of some seven different types of Canadian
wool have been made to England by the
Canadian Co-operative Wool Growers,
these representing some of the best wools
grown in Eastern Canada and the range
area of the West.

156

NOTIONS

Dry Goods Review

88Q*»

[MM^JMMiiniin

Made

in
Four
Sizes

000

COLONIAL MAID

DRESS

MADE

»»»O»»»»»»0»0»»»»»O»»<»»»»»»»0»»»»»»O»»»»»»»»»

It's all in
the Spring

FASTENER

CANADA

Strong —
Durable
Made of
Brass

It's a Snap to Snap This Snapper

Colonial Maid

Wire Spring Dress Fasteners

Made in
Canada

GH I S IS NOT A
FRICTION FASTENER
D i ' MADE
DUt IS WITH
HIGHLY TEMPERED

WIRE SPRING

KNOWS WHEN TO HOLD
AND WHEN TO LET GO

BRASS

will not
rust

ALSO PUT UP IN ONE GREAT GROSS
CABINETS ASSORTED 24 CARDS EACH
WHITE AND BLACK .-. .'. SIZES: 00-0-1

To be had of all leading wholesalers.

Manufactured by

Colonial Fastener Co., Limited

Montreal, Que.

Dry Goods Review

NOTIONS

159

CAN YOU MEET THE SPRING DEMAND?

FORSYTH KIMMEL COMPANY

BUTTONS

Are so styled and priced that the Button Buyer can
see in them the appeal that pulls sales.

Our REAL VALUES and GOOD SERVICE

should merit your confidence and your orders.

Forsyth Kimmel Company

THE BUTTON HOUSE

LIMITED

KITCHENER

CANADA

°J

Trade Mark

How Do You Stand as

Regards Your Button Stocks?

Do not allow your button depart-
ment to run short of any line.
Buttons are always in demand.
We carry the largest range and
can ship at once.
Resolve not to lose a sale this
year, by not having asked for
goods.

Your mail order will receive
prompt and personal attention.
Ask the Button men what's what.
Travellers now out with Spring range.

Button Sales Limited

66 Wellington St. W. - Toronto

This wax figure will make a wonderful attrac-
tion for your SPRING DISPLAY. Write for
prices, etc.

J. R. PALMENBERG'S SONS, Inc.

63-65 West 36th Street, New York
BOSTON CHICAGO BALTIMORE

160

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

Dry Goods R

eview

New Importance of Equipment

Manufacturer, in Closing Best Year in His History, Says Mer-
chants Are Being Forced Through Keener Competition to Instal
Better Equipment — When Headless Figures Should be Used and
Not Used Selection of Figures — "Interchangeable Heads."

AN ILL-WIND that blew badly for
some of the trade, was true to form
in blowing good to others. A pro-
minent manufacturer of wax figures in this
country, says that never in the history of
his business has he had as large a turnover
as this year. The Summer season especially,
was good this year. The numbers of small
merchants who are beginning to realize the
great value to them of display, is remarkable
compared with a year ago. He gives two
reasons for this. One is that the dry goods
trade in Canada is getting nearer the stand-
ard that is set in the United States. Our
people are expecting more, our merchants
are keeping more closely in touch with their
trade papers and with their competitors,
and they are devoting more time to travel
than formerly. The other reason is, com-
petition was so keen and business so poor
this year that merchants were forced to
look for attractive ways of displaying their
goods. The last two years of the war
brought trade so easily, that merchants fell
into the way of th nking that good display
was unnecessary. If they had not the mer-
chandise that was asked for, they had some-
thing else which the customer would take
without a murmur, because money was plen-
tiful and variety was hard to get. This year,
the buying public were satisfied with nothing
but the thing they wanted and even then
only when merchants emphasized values and
need.

Business in equipment during December
and early January was much quieter than
at any time last year, except the correspond-
ing months. This is only natural. The mer-
chant who has not taken the trouble to
install special equipment for Christmas,
certainly has not the time to devote to
it in December. January is the time for or-
dering spring merchandise and February the
big month for getting his display materials
together. One Toronto wholesale specialist
in these lines, says that in 1921 he cleared
$20,000 more than in 1920 in spite of the
lowered costs of the f nished work. Next
year, he will be very much disappointed if he
does not increase this profit by $25,000.

Points About Spring Display Goods

In ordering racks, stands, figures and fix-
tures of all kinds for spring showings, one
merchant with many years experience, ad-
vised the retailer to stock a plentiful supply
of waist forms this season. A strong revival
in waists is expected and they are one
class of merchandise which need forms.
Camisole stands follow as a consequence of
the vogue for waists. These are good in
either the ivory or the grey finish but there
is a slight preference for the French grey
because of the high colors in which camisoles
are now made. In ordering dress and suit
forms, he warns the merchants to ask for
the narrow shoulder type. It is very diffi-
cult to fit the prevailing modes on some of
the forms now on the market.

This merchant believes, that as a general
rule, it is well to use figures with heads for
window displays. They are much more ex-
pensive but two of these in an ordinary
window are more effective than three or four
of the headless ones. In the departments
where customers come to see the actual
garments which are sold exclusively there,
it is quite all right to use the headless ones.
The point to emphasize in the window is that
the passing public roust be attracted, to the
general display, while the floor of the store
roust carry the responsibility of showing mer-
chandise which will bear close scrutiny,
apart from the way it is displayed. In the
matter of heads, our informant believes that
fair hair in wax models has the effect of
attract : ng more attention and that there
should be at least one fair model in every
group. It is, for the same reason, the best
type to use in showing an unusual display.
The dark-haired models are by far the best
where the numbers of such figures are limited
to one or two, because almost every shade
may be used on them. Red-haired models
should be chosen most carefully of all.

A Canadian manufacturer is now making

Sew standing enamel display
form which is particularly

adapted to the models shown in
Spring gowns. Note the nar-
rowed shoulders and slim gen-
eral outline. — p HOWN BY THE
Dale Wax Fip.ure Company,
Toronto.

a head which may be used on any number of
figures. It is called the. ' "interchangeable
head." If a dealer orders one of these heads
at one time along with a figure, he can at a
later date have another figure made to fit it,
provided he gives the size or number of the
head. This is of great assistance to the mer-
chant who can thus have a reclining figure,
an upright one, a stout and a small figure at
a minimum of cost.

Draping stands are becoming more and
more popular as merchants realize the splen-
did effect of a drapery trim in a window or on
a counter. It is almost impossible, on the
other hand, to display fabrics to get either
the proper sunlight or a good overhead light-
ing without these forms.

Men's wax models are almost as essential
as women's, though retailers in this country
have not yet taken advantage of them to any
great extent. It may probably be that man-
ufacturers have not reached the same point
of perfection in these as they have in wo-
men's and childien's forms. This is even
true of the French models, which are world-
renowned. It seems very strange, that while
the athletic type of man is shown in art and
particularly in commercial art, wax-figure
manufacturers still keep to the polite, draw-
ing-room man when they make their models.
There are some milliners who prefer to
show their hats on stands rather than on
heads. There is no doubt however that more
milliners are ordering one or two heads for
their shops than ever before, because there
are vast opportunities in them for pleasing
impatient and homely patrons. Women are
often induced to buy when they see how
they should look rather than how they do
look.

With the vogue for lace collars of the very
open type this spring, manufacturers are
laying stress on collar forms which are fin-
ished in a flesh enamel. The trade are put-
ting a great deal of faith in these. One re-
tailer claims that he increased his collar
sales twenty per cent in one week, by instal-
ling a half dozen forms and instructing his
saleswomen in their use.

Shoe stands are gaining in favor, manu-
facturers declare. They enable merchants to
display more shoes than they could by leav-
ing them all on the floor of the window.

MARKING ACT POSTPONED

By an order-in-council dated January 1 1 ,
1922, the operation of the law requiring im-
ported goods to be marked with an indica-
tion of the country of origin, has been post-
poned until after the close of the next session
of Parliament. This order cancels all the
regulations issued by the Department of
Customs and Excise respecting marking.
Goods may, for the time being, be imported,
without having the country of origin marked
on them.

])fn Goods Rt view

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

161

The Problems of Retail Advertising

Neil R. Bell Says it is the Force That Makes the Wheels Go Round
— Mediums of Advertising — Writing the Advertisement and
Things That Should be Avoided — Advertising is Salesmanship.

IN THE limited time at my disposal
to give you a talk on "Retail Adver-
tising," it must necessarily follow
that what I say will he just a general
analysis of retail advertising as a whole
— and I might mention in passing that
my remarks will not apply so much to
departmental store advertising — (al-
though a departmental store is nothing
more or less than a number of retail
stores assembled under one roof) as
retail stores in a general sense.

It is no exaggerate n to say that
advertising in retail stores is the force
that makes the wheels go round — it's
the power of the husiness. The many
failures of retail stores which are
recorded yearly, cannot always be laid
to p:or advertising or the lack of adver-
tising. One or more of many causes
may have been responsible. But, when
a retail merchandiser is a success, it is a
safe assumption, in the majority of
cases, that he is a successful advertiser.
Not necessarily a good one, because his
success may be only partial — a pojr
realization of excellent opportunities —
but, if he sells enough goods over his
counter to make the books balance on
the right side of the ledger at the end
of the year, and continues to do so, it
means that he has, somehow, reached his
public, impressed them sufficiently either
with the merits of the goads, his own
personality, or some particular of his
store to bring them to his counters, in-
stead of his neighbors'.

Advertising, while so absolutely essen-
tial to retail merchandising, cannot ck>
everything. It cannot compete against
poor business ability — careless manage-
ment — lack of sufficient capital or sim-
ilar handicaps which make success an
impossibility. It must have a proper
foundation to build upon. But, given
that foundation, the manner in which
it is used determines the measure of
success or failure of a retail store.

Different Ways To Advertise

There are many ways to advertise a
retail store, and it is difficult to formu-
late any set of rules for general use.
Because, every individual store has its
own requirements and conditions which
must be taken into account when an
advertising outlay is planned. Success-
ful merchants have solved their prob-
lems in a variety of ways. Newspaper
display is the most common farm — -street
car advertising, billboards, circular let-
ters, blotters, novelties of all description
olay their part in the general scheme
of publicity. Only by careful and earn-
est study will you be able to solve the

The accompanying address on
Retail Advertising was delivered at
a meeting of the Hamilton Ad.
Club by Neil R. Bell, Advertising
Manager of "The Right House,"
one of the successful department
stores in that city. It covers many
interesting points that are of daily
use to the advertising manager and
deals with problems that face him
daily. Not the least of these is the
actual layout of the advertising
and the instructions to the printer.

problem of finding the method which
best suits your particular case.

Benefits

Newspaper display space, as men-
tioned previously, is on e of the most
common forms of advertising used by
retailers and it is one of the best. So
many merchants, large and small,
throughout th e country, are successful
users of newspaper space that there is
no question as to its value. It can be,
I think, fairly asserted, that as a gen-
eral rale, it takes years of advertising
through billboards, street cars, pro-
grams and circular letters to bring the
same results that a constant newspaper
campaign will effect in a short time.
I do not mean by this that these latter
mentioned forms of publicity are not
valuable for retailers — they are all good
in their way. Constant newspaper ad-
vertising will not only bring people to
buy frcm you and increase your busi-
ness, but it will raise your standing as
a business man. It will give you better
credit. It will enable you to buy more
cheaply and in larger quantities. The
wholesaler or manufacturer knows your
advertising gives your store a wider
outlet for his goods than that of a non-
advertising- competitor. He sees that
you get the best selling propositions
he bas, because be knows you wyi)
push his goods. Things move in circles
— you have a business that enables you
to advertise — that increases your busi-
ness — increased business means more
advertising, and, so on — in an endless
branching that brings you to success.

Writing An Advertisement

It is not necessary to make an ad-
vertisement a piece of literature. The
selling points' you use across the counter
are the points you should incorporate in
your advertising. For, advertising is
salesmanship on paper — nothing more,
nothing less. The man or woman who
will be interested in your advertisement,

who is in the market for the article
you wish to sell, wants to know but
few things; but those things must be
presented in a natural, interesting, con-
vincing manner. A description of the
article for sale, its particular advan-
tage and value, and, its price, are the
salient points you wish to impress up-n
the prospect.

Avoid Levity

Always avoid levity in advertising.
Anything which tends toward the
humorous in copy invariably weakens L.
The bright sally or jest which seems
so funny when it is written usually
looks very flat when reduced to cold
type. The public usually resents any-
thing of this kind and fails to give the
advertisement the attention it should
receive. People who are spending money
do not regard it as a joke, it is usually
a serious matter with them. If a
stranger entered a retail store and ex-
amined an article, the proprietor would
not regard this as an opportunity to
be humorous, or to show his ability as a
linguist — on the contrary, he would show
the article in which his prospect was
interested and respectfully and earnest-
ly explain its advantages and merits —
name its price and emphasize it if it
was a special inducement. He would
strive in every way to make a good
impression, to make the prospect feel
favorable toward the article in question
and to create a desire on his or her
part to own it. If the merchandise in
question is right, and the price right,
the sale would probably be made. The
retailer accomplished this by the very
simple process of showing his goods,
explaining their merits and naming a
price which convinced the prospect that
it was a good buy for him or her.

Advertising Is Salesmanship

The same retailer, when lie takes his
pencil in hand to prepare an advertise-
ment often ignores the very sales meth-
ods and sales points which enable him
to sell goods over his counters. He
forgets the salient points he wishes to
bring to the attention of his readers.
He forgets properly to present and
emphasize the vital facts in which they
are interested and floats off among the
clouds, finally turning out an advertise-
ment absolutely lacking in sellingyforce.

In preparing an .ad., it, is a good plan
to follow the same method a newspaper
reporter uses when preparing a story
or an article. Put the gist of your news
— the most important of your facts. — in
the first paragraph of your adver-
( Continued on page 163)

162

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

Dry Goods Review

Are You Picking Location for Store?

Or Are You Selecting The Cheapest Place You Can Get? —
This Article Brings Out Points That Should Be Considered-
Details As To The Definite Proportion Of Gross Receipts
Each Type of Business Can Afford To Pay For Rent.

NOW THAT the necessity of care-
fully watching every item of our
overhead expense is being forc-
ed upon us by reduced profits and great-
er difficulty in securing business, we are
beginning to realize that if we are to
make a successful showing in the com-
petition for business, we must careful-
ly analyze every item that goes into
our expense budget to see that no one
item absorbs more than its due propor-
tion of the general charges.

The general complaint therefore of
high rentals which is heard at the pre-
sent time in all parts of Canada rend-
ers opportune a discussion on the sub-
ject of rentals in relation to the amount
of business done by the retailer, of just
how and why certain sites are chosen,
the average percentage, different types
of business set aside for rent and why
certain merchants can! afford to pay
more for certain locations than others.
In a recent issue of "Forbes," C. C.
Nichols, president of the Chain Stores
Leasing Co., deals with the subject,
primarily from the point of view of the
chain store, but as a great part of what
he says is of general interest to all mer-
chants, our readers will, no doubt, ap-
preciate a resume of the points he
brings out. Mr. Nichols is one of the
foremost authorities in the United
States on the selection of sites for re-
tail chain stores. His remarks will
therefore carry weight.

Careful Attention to Details

When I started out in my present
business, he writes, I first trained my
mind to retain what might also be term-
ed a photograph of given districts. In
looking them over I gave close atten-
tion to the physical condition of the
buildings, the street level, location of
show windows and doors, the height of
the ceilings, the size of the posts and
whether or not the buildings had avail-
able basements.

It is an interesting psychological fact
that women buyers will walk to a base-
ment more readily than they will take
an elevator, and that where you have
a broad stairway with a wide opening
near the front of the store, as in 5-ancf
10-cent stores, women will catch sight
of the merchandise and walk down with-
out question, either forgetting or ig-
noring the return trip. Second-floor lo-
cations must also be carefully scrutin-
ized, as men will walk up one flight to
save money. However, from a stand-
point of lowered expenses it is a ques-
tion whether the merchant saves any-
thing in the long run on a second-floor
location, as he must spend much more,
proportionately, in advertising.

HIGH RENTS ARE

FORCING MEN OUT

The accompanying article is of
special interest and importance at
the present time on account of the
enforced movement of many re-
tailers from their present places
of business due to high rents and,
in many cases, increasing rents.
For instance, a certain retailer on
Granville Street, Vancouver, in a
published statement not long ago
said it was impossible with the
present rents in that city to live
and deal fairly with the public.
He stated that he had paid $300
per month in 1919, $475 in 1920,
and $600 in 1921. A new lease
tohich he had been asked to sign
demanded $2,000 per month. He
was leaving.

We know of merchants on Yonge
Street, Toronto, whose rent is be-
ing increased 45 and 60 per cent.
Some of them are also moving be-
cause they say it is impossible to
do business and make profits with
such a high rent.

It is in view of the necessity
arising to select a new site that
this article is run.

Watch Street Car Travelers

Another thing to which I pay the
greatest attention is the traveling pop-
ulation. I watch to see where people
get on and off cars and analyze the gen-
eral types. I study them to see wheth-
er they are the transient kind which
only brings "drop in" business for drug
and cigar stores. These I classify diff-
erently from the type which comes pre-
pared to purchase. There is also what I
call "station traffic," consisting largely
of commuters; such persons are always
in a hurry and usually add little to the
coffers of the adjacent merchants.

In visiting a city or town I study
carefully the advertising of local mer-
chants, watching to see what part of
this is regular advertising and what
part is that of the merchant who is not
located desirably and who must spend
money in advertising to coax the cus-
tomers to his store. I also pay particu-
lar attention to the difference in the
classes of people frequenting different
blocks. One block may be popular with
the customer buying the cheapest class
of goods, the second with those inter-
ested in things of moderate price, while
the third may draw the highest class of
trade. I am also much impressed with
the fact that the blocks given over to
women's trade are usually shunned by
men.

There are two distinct types of lo-
cation known to real estate men — men's
and women's. As a rule the shady side
of the street is the women's side, and
rentals are about 25 per cent, higher.
Where one side of the street develops
women's business, the other stands fair
to be good for men. It costs more in
every way to do business in a woman's
shop than in a man's, but women spend
much more money in clothes than men
do, and, on the other hand, women are
more creatures of habit than men, and
go in crowds. Department stores be-
ing classed as women's stores are us-
ually on the shady side, but in some
cases have early located differently and
have drawn the trade.

Just as there are two kinds of loca-
tions, so there are two divisions in
which we may class the merchants.
Where a merchant is an advertiser he
can afford to take a chance on a loca-
tion. He may even go on the wrong
side of the street or venture a block be-
yond the business district. Sometimes
he even dares to locate on a side street.
There are noticeable examples of stores
that have done this with great success.

Crowded Streets Not Always Best

Non-advertisers naturally have to be
more careful about choosing their lo-
cations and must select places where
heavy traffic passes their doors. In do-
ing this they must be far-sighted and
must anticipate where traffic is going
to centre during the entire term of their
lease. Being dependent for their busi-
ness on the passing crowds, a loss of
traffic would be disastrous. On the
other hand, they should be careful not
to commit the fatal error of selecting
a place where the traffic moves so swift-
ly that people do not have time to look
in the windows, read signs and deliber-
ate on purchase.

Many progressive merchants continue
both soliciting and advertising, reaping
excellent results from the justified
method. They have carried the study
of locations to such a fine point that
the psychology of the passing crowd and
its purpose in that district is carefully
included in their calculations.

Points Which Establish Value
When I start out to establish the value
of a given piece of property, the first
thing I do is to find out the population.
The second is to determine the charac-
ter of people who purchase their mer-
chandise in that city. Third, I investi-
gate the main industries, to see wheth-
er it is a good city for men or for wo-
men. Fourth, I investigate the deposits
(Continued on page 163)

Dry Goods Review

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

163

ARE YOU PICKING LOCATION FOR
STORE?

(Continued from page 162)

and the bank clearings, which give an
excellent history of business conditions.
In doing this, however, great care must
be exercised to see that deposits are dis-
tributed and that one has a reasonable
chance of getting business from depo-
sitors. A mere statement of bank clear-
ings and deposits is not sufficient to es-
tablish this fact. In Tulsa, Oklahoma,
for intance, deposits are large and the
clearings tremendous, but out of the
$25,000,000 deposits of one bank alone,
$10,000,000 is equally divided between
two or three men which narrows down
the sales possibilities. Fifth, the num-
ber of different industries in the city
and the proportion of manufacturers in
the city and the proportion of manufac-
turers to clerks. Sixth, after this has
been thoroughly studied the proper way
to locate a store is to plot the position
of the several business blocks in their
locations as to traffic, separating the
women's from the men's.

When your block has been chosen, se-
cure definite and reliable information on
each piece of property in the block and
the possibility of securing it, always
remembering that a location's value de-
pends only on the volume of actual
business that particular site will secure
for you. In this connection the same lo-
cation might be worth $3,000 to one
man and $4,000 to another. It is like
putting a square peg in a round hole to
put a cheap store in a valuable location,
and vice versa. The drawing power of
the surrounding territory must also be
taken into consideration.

Analysis of Passersby

Some interesting statistics have been
compiled in regard to the estimated
percentage of people passing a given
point who may be counted on to enter
a store. Let us say it is a woman;
where a thousand women pass a store in
an hour a certain percentage will
enter, a certain percentage will buy,
and there is an average sale to each
one. At this rate the merchant will do
a certain amount of business an hour,
eight hours a day, or a given amount of
business yearly, three hundred days.
(I have actually worked out this system
for several different lines.) By this
plan the merchant can form some es-
timate of his receipts, and can gauge
what he can afford to pay for rent, etc.
But, of course, he has to adjust these
figures to the locality, traffic passing,
type of people, the amount of sales,
his particular type of stock, andi many
other individual conditions, such as com-
petition. However, if he is an exper-
ienced man he can easily figure up a
close estimate of probable business by
this method.

There is a very definite proportion
of gross receipts which each type of
business can afford to pay for rent.
High-class retail stores who are large
advertisers can afford to pay six per
cent, (as a rule department stores aver-

age around three per cent.); non-adver-
tising, small specialty shops about eight
per cent; 5- and 10- cent stores who
are non-advertisers, five per cent.; high-
class theaters and hotels, nine per cent;
drug stores and soda water shops, fruit
and candy stores, ten per cent.; grocery
and provisions, ten per cent.; restaurants
and cafeterias which do a long hour
business, ten to twelve per cent.; cigar
stores, six to eight per cent.; baker
shops and shoe shining stands, twelve
per cent; moving picture theaters and
low-priced amusement places, skating
rinks, bowling alleys, pool rooms, etc.,
twelve per cent. These last depreciate
property and, therefore, a higher rental
is exacted.

PROBLEMS OF RETAIL ADVERTIS-
ING

(Continued from page 161)

tisement. Then elaborate on the facts
you wish to incorporate in your ad in
the order of their importance. Describe
the gcods you are offering. State the
prices. Explain why they are a good
"buy". Avoid the use of superfluous
words, bat don't make your description
too bare — remember, the man or woman
who reads your advertisement is not as
familiar with the articles you are des-
cribing as you are, and it is the purpose
of your advertisement to make them so.

Theatre Programs

People go to the theatre to forget
ordinary cares and matters and to be
entertained. This mental attitude cannot
be said to be very favorable to adver-
tising; although the attention given
the program before the play or enter-
tainment begins and between the acts
is at a time when the mind is impres-
sionable. How far an interesting play
or a cheerful entertainment goes towards
effacing the impressions made by the
advertisement cannot be gauged. The
homjej reading quality of the theatre
program is weak, very weak. A res-
taurant, making a specialty of after-
theatre suppers should be able to get
good results f rem this medium, so should
an ice cream parlor located near the
theatre. Clothing, hats, flowers, jewelry,
toilet articles, dancing academies, can
also be advertised to advantage on
theatre programs, provided the rate is
low.

Solicitors

Retail merchants and advertising
managers have much to contend with in
the way of solicitors that sell space in
church and school programs, catalogues,
telephone books, directories, etc. In
some cities, the conditions are such
that the local retail merchants' associa-
tions have passed resolutions pledging
themselves not to buy space in programs
and in such cases a copy of the resolu-
tion is usually posted in the store for
the benefit of solicitors — rarely is the
value of Bpace in such a medium worth
anything like the price asked, sometimes

the advertising value is practically noth-
ing and the only thing the advertiser
receives for his money, is the good will
of the solicitor or the one he represents
and this may or may not be of service.

Outdoor advertising, street car adver-
tising, circulars, direct mail advertising
and various other forms of publicity
all have their merits, in some measure,
but which we cannot deal with now.

Just one word in closing — let us all
strive to live up to the motto or slogan
of the Associated Advertising Clubs of
the World— TRUTH IN ADVERTISING.

Silver Cup For

Best Displays

Method Used by Montreal Firm to

Stimulate Showcase Display

Work

Recognizing that competition al-
ways stimulates personal effort, no
matter in what direction, the Montreal
firm of Almy's Limited have originated
a very satisfactory scheme to encour-
age enthusiasm on the part of the sell-
ing staff in keeping their various dis-
play cases dressed as artistically as pos-
sible. This plan consists of awarding
a handsome silver cup trophy to the de-
partment whose displays are most ar-
tistic throughout any month.

The trophy, which was presented for
this purpose by the store management,
is a very large one, designed like a
loving cup and engraved with an in-
scription setting forth the purpose for
which it was offered, and in itself is a
remarkably beautiful thing. The win-
ner of the trophy has the privilege of
showing it in his or her principal show
case for 30 days, after which the com-
mittee in charge of judging, number-
ing three of the official personnel,
award it anew and it is transferred to a
new position. It so happens from time
to time that the same department is ad-
judged superior in point of artistic dis-
plays for more than a month and it is
allowable for the cup to be retained
by the winner for two months, but as a
general rule, the committee try to ad-
here to the one month policy, since it
keeps interest up to a greater extent.

After the cup has been won and is in
place amid a new display of neckwear,
fancy goods, ribbons, etc., as the case
may be, a card is added which explains
to the public the idea underlying the
award of the trophy. It runs after this
manner. "This cup was won by this
department for the best display during
the month of November."

According to a member of the firm
the awarding of the trophy undoubtedly
stimulates the sales staff to take great-
er care of its show cases, to devise new
methods of dressing them and) more
original colour schemes. The public
are quick also to notice the presence of
the handsome cup with its explanatory
card and they frequently enquire who
the winner is each month.

164

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

Dry Goods Revier

Attractive Display is Big Feature of

The Success of the Gay Chain of Stores

Fancy Work Department Leads As Profitable One — Notions
Is One Of The Feature Departments Of The Organization —
Ribbons Are Sold Through Effective Display Work — Work-
men's Needs Are Not Overlooked.

THERE is a direct answer to those
re ailers who complain that busi-
ness is quiet in different lines, in
the analysis of the methods employed
by the Gay Stores, of which there are
five at present in Canada, whose ex-
traordinary success is only equalled by
the famous Woolworth organization. The
Gay Stores are the result of the efforts
of one ambitious woman, who recog-
nized the i eed for shops in which pretty
things and useful things could be ob-
tained for li.tle money. She felt that
there was a great opportunity for such
a store, especially in localities in which
large numbers of industrial workers
were living, and so she decided to oper-
ate a chain of such shops, devoted to
the selling- of really worthwhile mer-
chandise of every description at prices
which represented the very lowest fig-
ures possible. She calculated that sue
could make sufficient profit out of a
good many stores to enable her to fix
the maximum iprice at $1 and she found
that by buying the stock in as large a
quantity as she could obtain it, the cost
price was much lower than in the reg-
ular way. So, with a well defined
policy to sell nothing' but the best mer-
chandise obtainable at the lowest market
price, the Gay Stores were started a
short time ago and have already won a
place for themselves- as supplying one of
the great needs in industrial life The
policy of the Gay Stores is just what
one might expect of their originator,
who is well known to the merchandising
world as Mrs. Almy, vice-president of
Almy's Limited, and whose idea it was
to name the stores in such a manner as
to emphasize their character without
stressing their commercial side to the
extent that is done with most stores of
the 5, 10 and 15 cent type.

As a matter of fact, there is much
about the merchandising methods of the
Gay Stores which could be adopted with
stroce»& by the average dry goods store,
especi&Hy as a temporary measure to
stimulate" business which is naturally
dull during the latter part of January
and' itftb February: There is the matter
of^'displa^). equipment and care of stock,
not to mention the details of selling,
which might be adopted either as a
definite policy or at least as a means to
stimulate business in certain lines that
show an inclination to move slowly.

In the Gay Stores there are some
thirty departments,, including such lines
as underwear for men, women and chil-

dren, hosiery, fancy work, toilet goods,
fancy goods, stationery, candy, ribbons,
notions, gloves, leather goods and toys.
It is a miniature department store con-
i lifted on precisely the same lines as
are the biggest shops in any city, but
with this difference -that the whole ob-
ject of the business is not to feature
the newest and most exclusive goods,
but lather to undersell competitors, if
possible, by giving the public the ben-
efit of every decline in prices, so that
they, not the store, benefit by any ad-
vantageous purchase. By keeping close-
ly in touch with xhe markets, the man-
agement of the Gay Stores is enabled
to buy at the closest possible prices, and
fully 80 per cent, of the vast quantities
of merchandise distributed between each
of itihe five stores in Canada, is pur-
chased in this country.

To consider the different aspects of
the Gay Stores in analyzing their claims
to success, it is necesary to touch light-
ly on the different lines featured, and
in each case the results recorded have
been definitely proved the best that can
be achieved

Fancy Work Department Leads

Department 1 happens to be fancy-
work and wovls, etc. The greatest suc-
cess of the whole store has been regis-
tered in this section due to the fact
that there is a very wide range of
fresh stock on display, including every
sort of stamped pillow, pincushion, run-
ner and centre piece with the silks or
floss to finish them, all priced at low
figures, yet of such a quality that when
finished they equal the best lines on the
market. In the range of sweater yarns,
every color is stocked, arranged in a
rack accessible to customers who can
match up shades themselves. Instruct-
ion books are sold and the selling staff
are all expert workers in embroidery
and needlework and welcome any prob-
lems brought to them by customers who
find their work' difficult. Every facility
available in large stores is offered to
the customers of this department and
yet although there is nothing in it which
costs over $1, it is the most profitable
department in the entire store. The
secret in a nutshell is low prices, fresh,
new god r )s, courteous staff and friendly
assistance of all kinds in learning stitch-
es, etc.

How Notions Are Promoted

The next biggest department, is the
notions section, which sells a vast quan-

tity of smallwares each week. The
general policy is followed outlined above
but much of its vo ume of sales can be
traced to the fact that all threads and
spool goods are placed out on the countr
ers, graded 1 according to size only, enab-
ling customers to pic.v out the numbers
lequired themselves, ascertaining the
number of yards per spool, etc., without
having to ask the sales girl to wait
on them. In department stores, it is
the custom to keep spools behind the
counter, out of sight. The Gay Stores
work on the opposite theory and have
proved that sales can be doubled by
putting the goods out on the display
counters, thereby saving both sales
staff and customers annoyance and
waste of time. Buttons sell exception-
ally well too, because they are featured
in quantities instead of small lots. Even
a gross of gaiter buttons can be disposed
of in short order by displaying them
just when the gaiter season opens and
women are thinking of patching up
last year's pair. The secret of dispos-
ing of small wares quickly is to show
them at the right time and price them
low. Quick sales will always result.

Big Displays Sell Ribbons

Ribbons are another big seller, due
perhaps to the effective displays feat-
ured. Glass bins are arranged to cover
the entire counters, all of uniform size,
and filled to overflowing with quantities
of ribbon of all colors and widths, un-
rolled from the bolts for greater con-
venience in selling. The effect of this
display is undoubtedly a great contribu-
ting cause to the volume of business
done in ribbons. Wider widths are
featured in the same manner in longer
bins, and also a good display of ribbon
novelties, showing what can be made
from the different ribbons themselves.
This display was made by the sales
staff and has been the means of doubl-
ing sales at special seasons such as
Christmas, Easter, etc. Ribbons are
priced equally as low as the rest of the
goods, a favorite price being 39 cents
a yard, but qualities are always of the
best.

Caters To Railway Men

Men's furnishings likewise sell so fast
that supplies cannot always be obtained.
The Gay Store is located not far from
the Railway Shops and consequently
there is a great demand for work gloves,
overalls, work shirts, heavy hose, etc.
Most of the shopping is done by- .women
but occasionally men drop in for some

Dry Goods Review

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

165

particular thing personally. A great
feature this month was a strong and
comfortable leather woiking glove priced
at 39 cents a pair. The word spread
through the shops and quickly the huge
pile of gloves melted away. Strong-
khaki work shirts are priced at !j>l and
they likewise move quickly.

Gigantic amounts of candy are sold
annually from the tiay Store, which can
be believed when the statement is made
that a ton of hard candy alone was sold
at Christmas time. The working man en-
joys his week-end box of chocolates as
well as does his wealthy brother and Sat-
urday is a busy ciay in the candy depart-
ment, where the best chocolates are sold
at less than 30 cents a pound. There is
one line in particular which has been
named the "Gloria Gay" mixture, and
whether it is because the candy is good
or the name attractive, it sells all the
time. But the secret of this extraordin-
ary business is the fact that the supply
of candy is never allowed to run out,
but stocks are kept piled up constantly,
so that there is always a mountain of
candy in each bin all the time. When-
ever a bin is half empty the demand
mj -teriously falls off, but when replen-
ished, sales spring up quickly.

The same holds good of window dis-
plays, which must be crowded and color-
ful, though neatly arranged and showy,
to produce results. Where unit displays
of graceful arrangement attract in big
stores, the Gay Shop draws by reason of
quantity. The moral of this is plain— -
the working class loves to see quantities
of goods and plenty of variety. Art is
a secondary mat er, price being much
more important.

The interior of the store is painted
French grey throughout with a novel
decoration in bright blue used as a
border effect. No other elaboration is
used, except the overhead signs which
indicate the position of the different de-
partments in both languages.

There are two large music sections,
one for the piano ard the other for the

phonograph. In the other a very accom-
plished little lady plays and sings to the
delight of visiters and sells quantities
of music for voice and piano through
her talent in both directions. The phono-
graph department sells records in bot.i
French and English, the records being
played upon a magnificent instrument
which also attracts crowds. The man-
agement say that customers are so rest-
ed and refreshed by listening to good
music that they find shopping much
more enjoyable and they return more
frequently on this account.

Keeping Down Overhead Costs

There is no delivery system maintain-
ed by the store, nor are there any re-
serves of stock to be brought forward.
Eveiythinig for sale is on view, and iL'
a bin is empty, it means that something
else must be substituted at once — no
more of the first article is available.
Customers are quite willing to carry
parcels — even to an entire dinner set
of china — and whole families are
pressed into service to carry away pur-
chases of this sort.

The displays are kept neat and orderly
through the unremitting attention of oik
girl in each department whose duty it
is to arrange the displays and refill
empty b'ns each hour. She makes it a
r_oint not to mix goods together of dif-
ferent prices but to display each line
underneath its own price tag, in a separ-
ate division.

The methods employed in the Gay
Stores therefore simmer down to this:

Merchandise in quantity.

Lowest prices.

Neat, refined atmosphere.

Quick service.

In a word, the kind of goods the
people want at prices they can afford.

UPHELD BY BOARD

The General Executive Board of the Inter-
national Fur Workers Union in annual sess-
ion in Montreal decided to uphold the local
unions of New York, Brooklyn, and Newark,
New Jersey, in their demands for the main-
tenance of conditions already prevailing in
these centres, which include the 44-hour
week, time and a half for overtime and ten
legal holidays per year.

The agreements with manufacturers in
these centres expire on January 31 and tin-
conditions set forth will be pressed for when
the question of renewal comes forward.
The General Executive Board pledged full
support to the unions in their efforts to
bring about renewal of agreements on these
lines.

A delightful dance followed by a sup-
per and more dancing, was the splendid
entertainment given by H. P. Ritchie
and Co. to their employees and a few
business friends on January 6. Through
Mr. Ritchie's generosity, this is an an-
nual affair and greatly looked forward
to by the staff.

The examining depar ment was taste-
fully decorated for the occasion with col-
ored balloon, bunting and f ags. Sever-
al feature dances enlivened the evening
which was all too short and there was
progressive euchre for those who did
not dance.

This entertainment is now looked
upon as an annual institution, at which
the heads of the firm act as hosts and
as workers, while the e-ii'iloyees are the
happy guests.

The British Clothing House, of North
Bay, was recently robbed of $500 worth
of merchandise.

E. A. Beauchim has recently purchased
the men's wear store owned by J. F. Many
of^Coaticook, Quebec.

KENT-McCLAIN AGAIN

Perkus & Swastika Co., Ont.

Messrs. Perkus & Company have recently
augmented the display equipment of their
Swastika. Ontario, store by the addition
of "Dresden" silent salesmen with special
trays for shirt display. "Dresden" cases
are built by Kent-McClain, Limited, (To-
ronto Show Case Company i.

There is a difference between a mere display of linens and a display of lineiis with a suitable background to
show them off. The above illustration brings out this difference very well and an added attraction is given to
a well arranged linen showing by Charles Ogilvy Co., Ltd., of Ottawa.

166

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

Dry Goods Review

Lamson impr

Flexibility

Dry Goods Review

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

167

Read what this New Cable Service
will do in Your Store

This latest improvement in Lamson Service does
two things that are of vital importance to mer-
chants during 1922. It cuts down operating ex-
penses — it gives customers uniformly quicker
service

AN automatic central desk is the new fea-
ture of the improved system.

All carriers coming to this new desk are dis-
charged on a fast moving belt, which takes
them almost instantly to a receiving shelf in
the center, within easy reach of the operators
on either side.

Under the usual arrangement, cashiers and
authorizers sit on opposite sides of the desk,

A few of the most

Uniform quick service. All sales are handled
in the consecutive order in which they arrive
at the central desk.

Even distribution of work. As any incoming
carrier can be handled by any operator, all
operators are kept uniformly busy.

•and both pick up their carriers direct from
the belt or receiving shelf, the two kinds of
carriers being designated by colors. The old
time relay from cashier to authorizer with its
expense and waste of time is thus done away
with.

Outgoing lines are grouped in the center of
the desk so that operators on both sides can
despatch carriers quickly and easily.

important advantages

Flexibility. The cashiering force can be ex-
panded or contracted in proportion to the
load.

Convenient Operation. The new desk en-
ables operators to handle their work with
less fatigue, as they do not have to leave their
chairs.

This new central desk is easily installed in place of an old-style desk.
Lines and clerk stations need not be disturbed. The moderate cost of
such a change is soon absorbed by the savings it makes. Let our near-
est office give you full particulars of this new type of service. If you
place your order for this equipment in January, you can begin making
savings with your new system during the busy Spring sales.

THE LAMSON COMPANY

Toronto, Ont., 136 Simcoe Street

Vancouver, B.C. 603 Hastings Street

6vib Service

Economy

168

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

Dry Goods Revii ti

«i

K»»

'Do Appearances Count'

We have in stock exceptional stands and forms for millinery trade.
Call at our show rooms and inspect our lines.

Write for our catalogue showing complete range of fixtures, figures
and forms.

ORDER EARLY
Full line of dress, suit and skirt hangers carried in stock.

CLATWORTHY & SON, LIMITED

London, England Toronto, Canada

Established 1896 REPRESENTATIVES Incorporated 1908

Vancouver, B. C— J. S. Maxwell & Co., Mercantile Bids. Halifax, N. S. — D. A. Gorrie. Box 273.

Montreal, Que. B. O. Barette & Co., 301 St. James St. Quebec - Nap. Debigare. 205 Rue des Fosses,

Travelling Western Representative;- S. J. Barley.

Drtj Goods Review

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

169

Why Not Keep Business in Your Town ?

You can overcome the Mail Order House.
You can stop trading in the nearest city.

How?

By installing the New Way System of store equipment.
By giving the same service as the big store.
By selling the same goods at the same prices.

The above photo shows a New Way Store in a town oi 4000 people, equipped with the
New Way System, that keeps business in the Home Town.
Consult with us. You can do the same.

JONES BROS. & CO. LIMITED

STORE FIXTURES

29-31 Adelaide Street W.
TORONTO

*r -v..

170

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

Dry Goods Review

Dale Wax Figure Co., Limited

Our new standing enaiu-
el Display Form, made
in sizes 16 and 36. heav-
ily weighted and stands
perfectly rigid. This
form is used extensively
in all leading American
stores.

86 York Street, Toronto

Canada's Leading Manu-
facturers of High Grade
Wax Figures, Display
Forms and Fixtures. Every-
thing for the Better Display
of Merchandise. Order now
in plenty of time for your
Spring Display. Avoid
Disappointment.

No. 279

Glove Stand finished in
oxidized copper, nickel plate,
brush brass or statuary
bronze.

No. 3061, Plateau

Finished in Old Gold, Old Ivory oi any

color tone required.

Write now for our Catalogues covering

all lines.

Dale Wax Figure Co.,
Limited

TORONTO

Representatives :

MONTREAL: P. R. Munro,
259 Bleury Street.

WINNIPEG: O'Brien Allen & Co.,
Phoenix Block.

VANCOUVER: E. R. Bollart & Son,
Mercantile Bldg.

IT i

No. 151 E

Girl's Wax Figure, made in
all sizes.

No. 285

Handkerchief Stand fin-
ished 1 in Oxidized copper,
nickel plate, brush brass
or statuary bronse.

Dry Goods Review

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

171

Make Your Show Windows The Pride of Your Town

GET DELFOSSE'S FIXTURES, FORMS

Start to plan your Spring displays NOW.
Sit down now and write us. Give us a gen-
eral idea of your windows. We will be
glad to furnish you with suggestions and
estimates. f

No. 3044.
Latest Shirt Waist.

Mounted on Louis XVI.

Base.

Finished Old Ivory,

Mahogany & Walnut

No. 84.
Tee Stand.

Adjustable

10 to 20 and 15 to 25

any Finishes.

No. 86.
Card Holder.

Standard 20, 25, 30 in.
high, any Finishes.

No. 275. Dress Stand.

Adjustable 24 to 40,

Oxidized, Nickel, Brass,

Statuary Bronze & Finishes.

DELFOSSE & COMPANY, Limited

247-249 Craig St. West, Montreal.

WALKER MEDIUM PRICED FIXTURES

No. 70D-2 71-GH 72 SGG 73 S NO. 70 Shelf.

Combination of 50" long 26" wide, 7' high sections. Center units for^Shirts^Underwear, Skirts,

Gloves, Hose, Collars and Sundries.

Are your fixtures worthy of Your Store

the wares you display? Our
name in fixtures means dura-

Show Cases,

Wall Cases,

Counters,

Tables

and

Shelving

Detracts by

the Quality
bility and attractiveness with f j£

moderate expense. Fixtures

THE WALKER BIN & STORE FIXTURE CO., LTD.

KITCHENER, ONTARO

172

HOME FURNISHINGS

Dni Goods Review

Spring Draperies Reflect Orchard and Forest;
Montreal Houses will Not Import, but Convert

Oetonnes Tend Toward Small and Neat Floral Designs — An
Apple Blossom Design — Block Prints In Four Ground Colors —
New Sun-fast Casement Cloths — Cretonnes For Tub Frocks

And Neckwear.

THE SPRING showings of drapery
fabrics of all descriptions seen at
one of Montreal's most important
wholesale showrooms are impressive
from more than one point of view. To
describe the multitude of new patterns,
[materials, coloring's and improvements
in general could not be attempted in
detail, but one or two outstanding feat-
ures call for emphasis. The coming year
is going to be one in which a greater
amount of converting of domestic drap-
ery fabrics will be attempted than has
ever been accomplished before in Can-
ada, and as a result, there will be less
need to import these goods from other
countiies than has been the case foi -
many years past. That a great need for
household draperies exists in Canada is
the confirmed belief of our leading man-
ufactures, and their Spring expositions
of new ranges is perhaps the finest
ever seen in this particular fie'.d.

In the selection of patterns for the
new Spring draperies, the designers
have used especially good judgment.
Adapting their designs from the best
imported materials, they have combined
beauty and utility with harmony, and
the new products are to be placed upon
the market at prices which represents
mere fraction of the cost of the original
fabrics. . . . .

Small Designs For Cretonnes
From the wide range of dainty bed-
room chintzes offered for Spring the
most apparent chalracteristic is then
extreme delicacy of coloring and design.
Gone forever are the crudities of the
war years, when the public put up with
the worst specimens of amateurish ef-
fort since the mills were operating
under such immense difficulties. But
now all the inferior products have gone
by the board, and instead we find in-
tricately lovely floral motifs cunningly
interwoven to represent nature at her
best, with bud and full blown blossom
entwined in artistic effects. Patterns
tend towards the small neat figures
rather than the huge, sprawling effects
formerly considered peculiar to chintz
and cretonne, and there is a general
tendency to keep the designs regular
and distinctive, -whether an all-over or
striped design is attempted. There are
a number of the best of last season's
designs carried over to this Spring, but
these are all modified and improved by
the addition of the zinc overprint, which
lends' a charmingly softened appearance
to the former colorings and provides that

New tapestry cretonne in two blendings, absolutely reproducing the real
tapestry patterns and colors, which is being largely featured for Spring

for the coverings of couch-beds, etc.
Bedroom chintz in new lattice design, featuring the familiar bluebird motif

in combination with a rosebud nosegay in natural shades. .
Netv floral design in eight colors, in which vivid grounds are contrasted
against natural effects. This cretonne is 36 inches wide, converted in Mon-
treal. — Draperies Shown by Courtesy of Daly and Morin of Montreal

and Lachine.

shadowy effect which is so desirable in
hangings and draperies of all sorts this
year. From all indications, the demand
is to be entirely for shadow effects in
all types of drapery fabric and to sup-
ply this expected demand the manufac-
turers are offering two definite types
of zinc overprint, namely the stripe 1
or poplin effect and the checked 1 finish,
both of which are supplied in many
different floral patterns in blues, blacks
and greys. Greys, by the way, are ex-
ceptionally popular in hangings, espec-
ially when combined with touches of
rose or blue. ,

One of the prettiest patterns of the
coming season is an apple blossom de-
sign, carried out in a very natural and
life-like manner. This design, as well
as all the others, is developed in the
new 36 inch width which has entirely
supplanted the 31 inch style that is
chiefly found in imported draperies at
present. The aforementioned apple
blossom cretonne can be had for as little
as 23 cents a yard, which is decidedly
less than any imported fabric on the

market. The price of the zinc over-
prints is only eight cents more, or 31
cents a yard.

Another new departure in cretonnes
is the tapestry cretonne just introduced.
At two feet away, it is impossible to
detect this cretonne from the real tap-
estry upholstery material, so faithfully
are the colors and designs reproduced.
There are two distinct patterns in 'this
tapestry cretonne, in which blue an 1
brownish red predominate respectively.
This particular fabric was evolved to
meet the need existing for something
new to replace the ubiquitous green rep,
which seemed to be the only material
available for covering couch beds,
divans, and for making slip covers
for furniture. In papular priced lines,
this new material is certain to meet
with a huge success, due to the fact
that it is artistic, serviceable and in-
expensive.

Blocked Prints

In the more expensive and more elab-
orate drapery fabrics, block prints are
(Continued from page 172)

Goods Rt vi( w

HOME FURNISHINGS

173

Demand for Seasonable Merchandise Creates

Sales of Homefurnishings in January

Cocoa Mattings and Rubber Mats in Demand — Imported Down

Puffs in New Designs — Down-filled Cushions Are Luxurious in

Coverings — Some of the New Spring Rugs — December Was

Good Month For Furniture Sales.

WITH the advent of January and its
attendant snow storms and ice, comes
the necessity of promoting the sale of
door-mats of rubber or cocoa fibre as well as
yardage mattings which are so essential for
use on exposed steps where accidents might
occur. A leading wholesale firm of Montreal
is showing one of the largest stocks of these
goods seen f r some years, including all
widths. The 2-4 and 4-4 widths sell most
readily and are priced this season from 60
cents up to $1.25 while mats of the fibre
may be obtained from 80 cents upwards.
According to the manager of the depart-
ment in which these goods were seen this
month, this winter offers a good opportun-
ity to the wide awake retailer to go after
business on this particular line, since most
establishments which utilize matting have
not bought as frequently as usual and might
be circularized with good results if the mat-
ter was done promptly. A certain Montreal
store has adopted the wise plan of sending
out price lists on mattings and mats to all
the public institutions, apartment houses,
churches, schools, theatres and clubs where
there is a possibilify of employing such mer-
chandise in winter, stressing the attractive
appearance of a well-laid matting as well as
its valuable protection in the event of icy
walking. If a contract department is main-
tained in conjunction with the store, a price
might be also quoted for labor in connection
with the laying of the matting.

Rubber Door Mats

The vogue for rubber mats, both solid
and perforated in oval and oblong styles is
almost as great as for the matting variety,
the former being considered more sanitary
as well as giving longer wear. Rubbermats
come in five sizes and patterns. These are
especially good for private houses and should
be extensively featured after Christmas in
preparation for the real Winter months.

Imported Down Puffs Received

A large shipment of imported down puffs
has just been received by a leading Montreal
wholesaler, which is probably the finest range
yet seen on this side of the Atlantic. The
puffs are made of a very fine quality of
French silk damask and are filled with the
best quality of down. They come in a large
range of colors, including black, wine, old
gold, dull blue, rust, etc.

These puffs are different in appearance
from ordinary styles as they are constructed
with a single wide French panel in the centre,
made of a contrasting fabric and design.
For example, a black silk damask puff was
centred by a wonderful panel of natural roses
so harmoniously blended as to coloring as to
resemble a superb brocade such as is used
for evening gowns. Another sand colored
puff was left quite plain, but the panel sec-
tion was outlined in stitchery. An old-gold

puff was centred by a panel in conventional
floral pattern in which the tones of rose, blue
and brown predominated. Possibly the
black puffs provided the most striking note
of novelty and richness.

Prices on these beautiful bed coverings
ranged upwards from $27.75 each and foe-
s' des the damask they were shown in such
materials as plain pure silk, satin and sateen.

Cushions De Luxe

Next in importance to the puffs was the
d'splay of down-filled cushions all ready for
use, featuring all the newest ideas in decora-
tive art. There were circular, oblong, tubu-
lar and square pillows of really generous
dimensions, each one so resilient and light as
to resemble thistledown in weight.

The covers of these lovely accessories
were delightfully appropriate, being made of
different silks in such shades as navy blue,
black, blue shot red, and black shot blue,
etc. The bolster shaped pillows showed an
effective panel of antique silver or gold tin-
sel brocade and the ends were fastened to-
gether with long hanging tassels. The cir-
cular cushions were covered in shirred and
puffed effects with corded seams.

Exceptional Demand for Blankets

The demand for blankets seems inexhaus-
tible this season, stated a leading whole-
saler to Dry Goods Review and it is many a
year since the demand reached such propor-
tions as it has done this Autumn. It appears
as though every housewife had awakened to
the wonderful opportunity existing for her
to replenish her household stocks in blankets
and consequently the blanket sales held in
Montreal have been more successful than
ever before.

According to advice from the wholesale
trade, practically all the Spring designs in
carpets and rugs will show entirely new pat-
terns for the reason that the mills have not
been able to feature new designs during the
past four or five years but are now working
on radically new ideas and colors. One lead-
ing wholesale house has just sent out a letter
to its customers advising that all old pat-
terns have been cleared from stock in order
that the firm might be in a position to show
an entirely new range of design, comprising
the very latest and most artistic designs and
co'orings which are being shown by the
various mills. This particular house does not
confine itself to any one or two mills but
makes its selection of designs and colors
from practically every mill, which is a val-
uable asset to the retailer who does not wish
to confine his range to a few individual lines.

Labor Savers Sell Fast

Despite the fact that the public demands
one hundred cents worth of value for its
dollar and is inclined to show preference for
goods which cost as little as possible, it is

stated that all the different household labor
savers are selling better than ever before.
Such articles as carpet sweepers, vacuums,
washers and ironers are enjoying an unpre-
cedented demand as Christmas gifts as well
as real necessities for the woman who is
doing without a maid. Owing to the drop in
the price of furniture of all kinds, furniture
sales have been the order of the day in many
localities and according to one store inter-
viewed this month, practically every article
of furniture sold in December was a Christ-
mas gift which was to be delivered to the re-
cipient on Christmas Eve. This idea of giv-
ing furniture as gifts has never been as gener-
al as during December and it is said that the
smaller artic'es such as bridge tables, lamps,
book cases, telephone stands and shirt-
waist boxes proved to be the most success-
ful sellers. It is just possible that the "De-
cember Furniture Sale" will become an
annual feature in many large stores owing
to the success recorded.

PRESIDENT OF VASSIB & CO., LTD.,
ST. JOHN, N.B., SAYS CON-
DITIONS BETTER

Hon. W. E. Foster, Premier of New
Brunswick and president of Vassie & Co.
Ltd. of St. John, N. B. has the following to
say with regard to the outlook in the Dry
Goods trade :-

"I can say that, on the whole, conditions
in dry goods show marked improvement.
During 1921 and the late fall of 1920 retail
merchants restricted their purchases to
practically essential needs; wholesalers
held their's down to almost the same degree,
and manufacturers refused to make up
goods except when they had orders for them.
Even with the small 'consumer' buying
that went on throughout the year these
policies resulted in a great reduction of the
quantity of goods on the market, and to-day
dry goods stocks are much below the average .

"One of the healthiest signs of the situa-
tion is the arrival of more stabilized prices.
Textiles and clothing of all sorts were among
the sufferers from price slumps during the
period just past — in fact their prices fell in
greater ratio than most other commodities.
Lately we have had a spectacular rise in the
prices of raw cotton, which had a slight re-
action, but leaves to-day's price some forty
per cent, above the low of last year. Raw-
silk has advanced somewhat, and so has flax.
These advances in raw materials have been
or shortly will be, reflected by changes in
price of the manufactured goods of which
they are component parts. Woolens, par-
ticularly the higher qualities, and hemp have
had a fluctuating market for some time, w hich
has not resulted that the period cf violent
price recessions such as commenced in the
(Continued on page 175)

174

HOME FURNISHINGS

Dry Goods Review

Wide Range of Curtains for Spring

Many New Designs Will Be Shown By Montreal Houses — Ap-
propriate Selections Of House Furnishings Should Not Depend
On Style But Correctness — Some New Spring Designs Describ-
ed—How To Take Care Of Curtains

AN EXPERT in novelty curtain de-
signing- commented on the tenden-
cy noticeable nowadays to demand
style in window draperies. "There
should be no such thing as style in
house furnishings," he explained, "be-
cause it should !be understood that the
selection of curtains, tflooi, coverings
and hangings depends altogether upon
the architecture of the house in question,
its individual type and personality, not
upon the mere whim of a fashionable
faddist. I overheard a woman say the
other day that she was glad that frilled
curtains 'were coming hack into style'
as they suited her room. I asked her
what kind she had been using and she
said that she had bought plain Bungalow
net curtains as everybody seemed to be
usinlg then*. This woman seemed bliss-
fully unaware of the fact that Bunga-
low net curtains were not in the least
suited to her dainty period room, with
its French furniture and its exquisite
old world atmosphere. Why, the very
thought of 'bungalows and chateaux
should be sufficient to prove that what
is suitable to one type of dwelling is
not necessarily correct for the other.
Consequently, I pointed out to this
would-be correct lady, that she had
better consult competent authority as
to what type of curtains her home called
for, and then stick to this style for all
time."

The majority of people make the error
of confusing correctness with style in
the matter of house furnishings, and
they are encouraged by many salesper-
sons in this error, because the latter
are apt to clinch their sales arguments
with the words, "This is the newest
thing we have," or "This is the kind
of curtain the Biltmore Hotel is using
in its bridal suite." There are many
people to whom such a recommendation
is irresistible, despite its really ridiculous
character, and to these people it should
be explained that there is no such thing
as style in the meaning of fashion, in
the choice of curtains. Just as really
smart women know that it is foolish to
follow the dictates of the mode in either
millinery or clothing slavishly, without
regard to becomingness, so the house
decorator recognizes that there are fund-
amental laws of balance, color, propor-
tion, etc., to observe in the selection of
those furnishings which shall enhance
and bring out all the latent charm and
character of the home.

Spring Ranges To Be Very Varied

This introduction was considered nec-
es ary by the expert in curtain design-

ing for the reason that during the com-
ing season the range of curtains offered
by the best firms will be more compre-
hensive and varied than ever before. It
will be a season when quality in both
fabrics and workmanship will be para-
mount, and there will be many radically
new designs and styles to select from,
necessitating discriminating judgment
and a knowledge cf demand in different
parts of the country. Architects say that
the new houses under construction have
plenty of windows but of different sizes
according to the needs of the various
rooms. Thus the matter of curtains is
rendered more difficult than it would be
if windows were uniform as they used
to be. There is no need, however, to
confine the purchase of curtains to the
yardage nets and marquisettes for the
majority of homes can be successfully
fitted with panel curtains which are
supplied in a wide variety of widths
and lengths and in all types of design,
from the ultra elaborate lacy and for-
mal type to the plain and simple panel-
ling suitable for dens or living rooms.
This panelling is now shown for Spring
in novelty effects of voile, marquisette

and scrim, made exactly like the con-
ventional novelty curtain but combining
the extra advantage of the yardage nets.
Many customers have asked for a really
high class curtain to be developed in
this manner and thus the idea has taken
concrete expression for Spring 1922.

One particularly striking example of
novelty curtain panelling for Spring
1922 was shown to Dry Goods Review
this month. The entire lower half was
composed of Cluny lace in the form of
vertical bands of insertion connected by
inset filet motifs and circular medallions
of Swiss lace on voile. Right through
the centre of the curtain ran a double
row of fine lace joined together by a
thread, which can be cut apart without
in the least damaging the edge of the
curtain, if a narrower width of panel is
wanted. In the same way any number
of sections can be supplied, joined by
the invisible thread. The upper part of
this panel is of voile with hemstitched
inner hems and inset with large Point de
Venise medallions, one on either side.
The bottom edge is trimmed with rich
Cluny lace in a Van, Dyke pattern.

Another style of novelty panelling
was developed in ecru scrim combined
with heavy crocheted filet lace in the
popular rose design. This also was con-
structed with the centre adjoining thread
and although more simple and inexpen-
sive in character has a very rich appear-
ance. The lower part of this curtain
is entirely of lace, which looks extremely
effective against the glass of the win-
dow.

Unusual Lace As Trimming

The newest novelty curtains of the
regular type are featuring unusual laces
this Spring, especially in patterns sug-
gested by the cretonnes that are com-
monly used as draperies with them. A
very effective simple curtain is made of
scrim with a four inch border effect of
Cluny lace with a scalloped edge. The
rounded part, however, is set on a cur-
tain material with a zig-zag machine
and the outer edge is straight, being
finished with narrow Cluny. The effect
of the rounded finish is unusual and is
sure to be popular for the average home.

Another novel treatment in novelty
curtains shows a dado effect of fine filet
in combination with marquisette, the
dado being carried right up on one side
to the top and the whole edged with fine
lace.

Point d'Esprit Is Charming

Exquisitely dainty sheer point d'esprit
ruffled curtains are now ready for
(Continued on page 198)

Dry Goods Review

HOME FURNISHINGS

175

Retailers are Beginning to

Place Their Orders Direct

Representative of British Firm Says System is

Better for Both the Manufacturer's Agent and the

Retailer — Saves Time and Money — Some New

Spring Materials

A REPRESENTATIVE of a British
firm in this country, says that
there is an increasing tendency on
the part of our retailers to order direct
from the manufacturer. By this he
means, placing an order with the agent,
who forwards it to the manufacturer
and, with this, his part in the transac-
tion is done. The old method, which is
still used by many merchants, is to buy
from the representative who finances
the merchandise in his own name. The
direct method has many advantages for
both agent and merchant, claimed for it.
The representative receives the same
commission as in the old way and does
not have to finance a heavy load of
goods, until such time as the retailer
takes it off his hands. Moreover, there
is no waiting for payment from the mer-
chant after the goods are delivered. It
gives the representative a better idea of
what the trad© want and there is no un-
saleable merchandise on his hands. To
the retailer it often means a great sav-
ing of time and certainly a saving in
money for the following reason: in buy-
ing direct he pays duty on the gold
value of the pound and has the advant-
age of the rate of exchange ruling at
the time of purchase. He still has the
privilege of ordering from the samples
shown by the representative.

The same agent informs Dry Goods
Review, that he has already sold more
merchandise for Spring both by direct
and indirect methods, than ever before
in the history of his business. The trade
are taking homefurnishing lines more
seriously than they have for a long
time. In fact, profit's up to December 31,
1921, show a twenty-five per cent, in-
crease over 1919, which after all, is the
best year to compare business with.

There is a great desire on the part of
large hotels in this country and in the
United States, to do a real housecleaning
this Spring. Huge orders are booked for
new curtain and upholstering materials.
Wide madras and grenadine are most in
demand for the better class of window
curtains. Seventy-two inches is the pop-
ular width and spots are asked for in
most of the materials. These curtains
are draped on a rod, each breadth cover-
ing the entire width of the window as
shown in the accompanying illustration.
1922 Will Favor Colored Madras

One of the best drapery fabrics for
this season and in fact for next Fall,
will be black and colored madras. Since
the war, rapid progress has been made
in the production of Scotch madras and
many favorable comments are made as
to the beauty and texture of this fabric.

The new madras yardage is from 36 to
50 inches wide. It is woven with Egyp-
tian yarn, some of all mercerized and
others of a combination of silk and mer-
cerized yarn. The design and coloring of
this material lends a beauty of tone
which harmonizes with present day re-
quirements in household decoration. One
of the best features of madras is that
it is adaptable to almost any window,
for valances, portiere curtains, and over-
drapes as well as for lamp-shade cover-
ings and cushions. The colors are said to
be fast and the wearing quality good.

SPRING DRAPERIES

(Continued on page 175)

easily leading for Spring, by reason of
their bold designs and brilliant colors.
Montreal manufacturers are now show-
ing block prints in as many as four
ground colors and say that mustard
outsells all other colors in popular favor.
There is a striking new range of hand
blocked print draperies now being shown
to the trade although the goods in
question will arrive from France this
month. These are featured in enormous
but very gorgeous patterns in which a
parrot is usually found among the usual
tropical foliage, combining the richest
and deepest tones against a background
of vivid contrast. This range can be
obtained for as low a price as 95 cents
a yard because an enterprising Canadian
firm has secured the exclusive services
of a French mill in putting out this
particular line, hence the quality and
worikimanship are of the best while
prices are lower than ever quoted.

Among the heavier and more formal
draperies, the greatest demand contin-
ues for velours in which a very wide
color range is now offered. During the
past year an extraordinary demand was
experienced for burnt orange, due to the
fact that a leading Montreal theatre used
it exclusively for its sumptuous hang-
ings and during the Fall season many
inquiries were received for the same
shade, as the public evidently admired
it and decided to follow this same shade
in their color schemes in house decora-
tion. There are some good rose and
green shades as well as taupe and blues
offered, and it is said that apart from
the burnt orange just mentioned, blue
has been the greatest seller. Printed
velours in a heavier quality are offered
for upholstery purposes in good shades
to blend with woods of furniture.

In order to supply the long felt want

for a really sun-fast casement cloth
which would keep its original rich color
in this climate, a leading Montreal man-
ufacturer has just introduced a range of
such fabrics including seven different
colors. The quality of these sunifast
materials is more silky and supple than
is usually associated with these goods,
and they can therefore be depended upon
to drape perfectly and adapt themselves
to any type of under-curtain.

Canadian made tapestries of the bet-
ter kinds are now being shown in many
new ranges. The quality of these goods
has gone ahead steadily from year to
year and is now if anything superior to
imported goods in durability, price and
design. Those tapestries which feature
a mercerized filling are particularly
attractive in appearance, while others
finished with a silk binder are richer
and more heavily embossed in appear-
ance, the pattern standing out with
greater effect. Prices on these goods,
which are uniformly 50 inches in width,
remain at their very moderate level
around $2.25 a yard, and though pro-
duction of all these tapestries is slow,
due to the fact that looms cannot turn
out more than 120 yards a week, yet
the demand continues unabated from the
furniture trade.

New Use For Cretonnes

The manufacturers of cretonnes point
out that the coming Spring is going to
witness a tremendous demand for these
gay materials to be used for tub frocks
and neckwear, and already the dress
manufacturers are picking up all the
small, neat designs in rose, blue and
lavender which they intend to put out
in the form of one piece wash dresses
shortly. The retail trade is advised to
keep its stocks of these materials well
assorted as once these dresses are
shown, there will be many women who
will want to copy them at home and
will seek the right materials in the
drapery department.

PRESIDENT OF VASSIE & CO., LTD.

(Continued from page 173)
Fail of 1920 has passed and that the mer-
chant today is safe in purchasing his normal
requirements in dry goods and allied lines.
I would not advise speculation, but the last
year, with its great shortages in some staple
lines has shown the danger of underbuying
and I think that the time has come when
moie normal purchases should be made."

Pearl embroidery on the much-talked of
periwinkle blue is being shown in New York
for early spring gowns. Cornflower blue
is also very good especially in crepe. A
Canadian woman who has just returned says
that long evening gowns are becoming more
and more evident. Very often these are a
little shorter at the front because of the
draping at the waist. Softly draped chiffon
frocks are very good for young girls and
white is gaining in favor.

176

> » ' >> > *,

HOME FURNISHINGS

/>,•// Goods Review

Wetter Service

Our many Customers throughout the
Country ate expecting great things
from us for the Year 1922.

Last Year was one of the best in our
history, and to justify the confidence
placed in us, we must offer for the
Season now opening, better Merchan-
dise and better Service than ever be-
fore.

Samples coming to hand daily include :
HANDKERCHIEFS, for CHRISTMAS, plain and
fancy in great variety, loose and boxed.

McLINTOCK'S Unrivalled Ventilated Down Quilts.

JOHN BROWN & SON, LIMITED, Madras Muslins.

CURTAINING S by the yard and by the pair in great
variety, including Nets, Scrims, Marquisettes, Cre-
tonnes, etc.

Call at our Warehouse when in the City.

"YoursfFor Bigger And Better Things"

Prime & Rankin Limited

Weekday Cross,
Nottingham, Eng.

74 York St.,
Toronto

' f //, ,„.

I'll! i:i>i>>i,,„mr,

I Ul/lllirill/lirm >I1J1II1,J nu. !,,,„, ,,.„„> ,■:,; „ ■;■■■■■

f)r;i Goods Review

HOME FURNISHINGS

177

Dominion Linoleums

Are Stocked by Your Jobber
He will Supply You Promptly

IT is a real advantage to have your source of supply close at hand.
When checking over your needs in linoleum, oilcloth, linoleum and
oilcloth rugs you can always be sure of obtaining stock quickly.

Be prepared for the early buyers by going over your stock now.
Customers will come to you for their needs, and many will come this
year earlier than usual. Make sure of their business by having
an array from which they can select what they want. Every merchant
who carries a big selection will obtain more orders.

oilcloth, linoleum and oilcloth rugs are fast replacing worn-out carpets
and rugs in many Canadian homes. They have advantages with which
every merchant is familiar, and housewives are being made acquainted
with these good points through our extensive advertising. Sell the
customer early — while in buying mood.

Our new 64-page Pattern Book for 1922

will be in the mails this month. If you do

not receive a copy write us direct.

Dominion Oilcloth & Linoleum Co.

Limited
MONTREAL

178

HOME FURNISHINGS

Dry Gooch Review

No. 4284

The Cretonne House of Canada

When we assumed the title of "the cretonne house of
Canada," it was no exaggeration, as the trade throughout
Canada have discovered.

The cretonnes illustrated on this and the opposite page
are all of our own converting and are only a few patterns
picked at random from our Spring range.

Many of these lines are now in stock, and others in pro-
cess of printing, so that we will he in a position to make
immediate delivery on February 1st.

Our range of drapery and upholstery materials is more
complete than ever before and we would bespeak for our
representative, an opportunity of showing you our com-
plete line.

Ontario merchants should not overlook vi.-itin<j; our per-
manent showroom in Toronto at Room 434, Foy Bldg.,
32 Front St., West, in charge of Mr. J. R. Evans.

Daly & Morin, Limited

Manufacturers and Converters

Lachine, Montreal

No. 4279

No. 4212

No. 4278

Dnj Goods Review

HOME FURNISHINGS

179

M ;fl*

l»

*'V_ _ „

x**.

t* !

&0*

\ r «

2tf*l

We supply
everything
for the
window.

FJ.i3S

/,*> '

<*( *i

Leadership L in Drapery and Upholstery Goods

The spirit of this organization is leadership and the merchant
who maintains a close relationship with the House of Daly and
Morin, Limited, shares alike in the benefits of that leadership
as it has always been our policy to anticipate the needs of our
customers and be aggressive enough, and progressive enough to
have the first offerings of new designs, new styles and new
colorings.

- Or-

Daly & Morin, Limited

Manufacturers and Converters

Lachine, Montreal

%/J.- VTT

***

L80

HOME FURNISHINGS

Dri/ Goo'h /.'< •

FLAT CURTAIN ROD

\\T E ARE pleased to announce to the trade that we have been appointed
™ sole CANADIAN representative for the new T. & S. Flat Rod. Just a
glance at this rod with its refinement of design and finish and its simple but
effective bracket will convince you of the possibility of combining in one rod
the following features:

Simplicity, Perfection in Finish, Absolute Rigidity and Adjustability to any
Window.

Finish: Colonial Dull Brass.

Packing: Each Rod With Fixtures Packed in Its Own Attractive Individual
Carton.

SINGLE FLAT ROD

Extensions, 28 inches to 48 inches or 36 inches to 63 inches.
Projections, 1% inches, 2% inches, or 3% inches.

DOUBLE FLAT ROD
Extensions, 28 inches to 48 inches or 36 inches to 63 inches.
Projections, 1% inches x 2% inches or 2% inches by 3 J /4 inches.

GUARANTEE

A real guarantee which is not a mere "talking point" but an honest promise by the
manufacturers to make good, is printed on the outside of each carton.

MANUFACTURERS, DISTRIBUTORS & CONVERTERS.
Window Shades, Draperies, Novelty Curtains, Drapery and Upholstery Hardware.

DALY & MORIN, LIMITED

LACHINE

MONTREAL

Dry Goods R

evieu

HOME FURNISHINGS

181

CMijC: •»•••»

Lace Goods Company, Limited

\1A:

I V i

Curtain Nets and Draperies

For Your Spring 1922

Requirements

We are specially well equipped to supply
your needs in these lines: —
CURTAIN NETS of that soft drapy nature
in an immense range of qualities from the
lowest to the high class filet qualities with
bird and other dainty designs.
SCRIMS and MARQUISETTES in all
the wanted styles.

CRETONNES and SHADOW CLOTHS, a good variety
of new patterns to select from — at popular prices.

POPLINS in that highly mercerized quality — and the clear.,„
round cord kind.

We Sell Sundour Fabrics

Our travellers are now out with

.Jthese lines — see them when they call

I — or if you are in the City call on us.

We Specialize in
Handkercniers

Embroideries
Lac s ana

Window Draperies

i \ I
M

i = :

■ k *

i = i

LACE GOODS CO., u

ited

Fifth Floor
79 Wellington St. West

TORONTO

•»•••»•»■

■Tirr.:-

Darax2^MiaHKHxi=nz

182

HOME FURNISHINGS

Dry Goods Review

Prepare now for Spring Sales

Be ready with a well-stocked Drapery Department. Your best
customers will appreciate having a wide range of artistic and qual-
ity goods to choose from.

You will find the selection of distinctive drapings an easy matter
in our show rooms, for our stock has been most carefully chosen at
lowest prices.

In Stock

Nottingham Curtains
Shadow Cloths
Aurora Casement Cloth
Mercerized Poplins
White and Ecru Madras

Novelty Curtains
Muslins

Bungalow Nets
Self Color Madras
Mixed Color Madras

VISIT US-

In the Heart of the
Dry Goods District

50" Imperial Velours --All wanted shades.
Spot Muslins and Marquisettes, plain and frilled.

JOHN KING & SONS, Hollands- White, Cream & Ivy

Wm. Strang & Son
Glasgow, Scotland

AGENTS FOR

Hood, Morton & Co.
Newmilns, Scotland

Stirling-Auld & Co.
Darvel, Scotland

J. B. HENDERSON & COMPANY

LIMITED

Established 31 Years

80 Bay St. :: Toronto

Why Not Have a Double
Check on all Sales?

All kinds of Wire Cash and Parcel
Carriers and Pneumatic Tubes-

Gipe-Hazard Store Service
Co., Limited

113 Sumach St., Toronto, Ont.

The merits of our Cash Carrier System should warrant your careful con-
sideration. We believe tihey will, and too, that you will agree with us
after making an examination of them. As a beginning- we would sug-
gest that you send for our illustrated catalogue which shows all kinds
of wire carriers for conveying cash, or cash and parcels. It will be better
for you to be prepared at this time when the Season is right, than it will
to be sorry after the rush of Spring trade has set in. Then why not
be prepared ?

PARIS

LONDON

NEW YORK

Cfjatillon, jWoulp, &oustfel et (Lit. <france>

SILK MANUFACTURERS
Factories at: LYONS, TARARE, VEYRINS, CORBELINS

Crepes, Muslins, Satins, Damasks, Brocades, Fancies

EXCLUSIVE DESIGNS
Canadian Representative: M. AUBIN 46 St. Alexander St., Montreal

LYONS

NICE

MILAN

When Answering Adver-
tisements Kindly Mention
this Paper

Dry Goods Review

READY-TO-WEAR

183

WE'LL ALL BE THERE

FEBRUARY 12—19

TEXTILE PRODUCTS EXHIBITION

KING EDWARD HOTEL

BOOTH NO. 1

MEET US AND SEE OUR FULL RANGE

OF NEW GOODS

yJ IJ3RANDJ

TRA VELLERS
NOW
OUT

Your Customers' Wishes Will Be Fully Met By The HAUGH RANGE
GOOD GOODS WELL BOUGHT ARE EASILY SOLD

The J. A. Haugh Mfg. Co., Ltd.

TORONTO, CANADA

Manufacturers of Trousers, Overalls, the famous
"Arm & Hammer Brand" Shirts — Kiddies' Garments

472-474 Bathurst Street,

TORONTO

At College Street

184

READY-TO-WEAR

Dry Goods Revieio

Ready To Wear - - - Spring 1922

Fabrics

Colors

Silhouette
Suits and Coats

GENERAL CONCLUSIONS

Dresses

Blouses and Skirts

PRING 1922 calls for fabrics which express
exquisite refinement. The woollens are
softer and capable of more unusual treat-
ment, such, for instance, as the finer Poiret
twills and superfine tricotines which are
the foundation of the demure little cape-
coats. For sports, fashion swings quite the
other way, and the rougher and more prac-
tical the fabric, the more popular it be-
comes. Thus, tweeds and homespun have
come into their own once more, and certain
jerseys will again lead in popularity for
sports wear. Silks affect the crepy weaves
and crepe de chine, Canton and Oriental
variations, such as Roshanara, Morocain,
etc., are still in the lead, although for
tailored or sports wear the newer "sponge" weaves known
by such various names as Creponge, Krepeknit or Chin-
chilla are much newer. For evening or formal gowns,
Paris has sent out wonderful crepes with a brocaded im-
pression, while for all round service, the ever perennial
favorite, taffeta, reappears as crisp and serviceable as
ever.

The Colors

So far as Montreal is concerned there is a decided
inclination on the part of the manufacturers to play safe
as regards the use of colors. In suits and coats of the
more formal type, navy blue predominates almost exclu-
sively. But when it concerns the all important subject
of sports wear, much more latitude is allowable. Here
we find colorful homespuns and polo cloths employed, or
else heather mixtures in soft shaggy tweeds, or again a
few gaily colored jersey cloths for the practical little
every day suit. The new periwinkle blue is especially
good, dull rose, mauve or pastel green also being shown.
Sand, deer or fawn are prominent for strictly tailored
sports coats, belted and leather buttoned.

Frocks of the more tailored type adhere to navy blue
for their major portions, relying upon a novel touch of
trimming for their individuality. But afternoon frocks
yet show a tendency to dark colors relieved by brilliant
touches of color, such as canna, French blue, sealing wax
red and orange. It is thought, however, that by April
these more sombre shades will be replaced by colors more
appropriate to the season. Where blouses are concerned,
it is to be an "all white" Spring, for the majority of
tailored blouses are designed on the hand-made washable
variety, which is so practical with both tailored and dressy
garments. Where the more elaborate blouse is worn, suit
shades will be adhered to in the majority of cases, with a
few very brilliant novelties for youthful figures.

The Silhouette

There is little change as yet in the feminine silhouette
as evidenced by the premier showings of garments for
Spring 1922 in the Montreal show-rooms. Despite the
fact that Paris has decreed that skirts shall be longer,
Canadian designers have been reluctant to add many
inches all of a sudden, preferring to bring about the new
style gradually and in the natural course of events. Thus
the willowy and attenuated figures which grace the fash-
ion magazines from Paris will not be duplicated on this
side of the water for many months, and the utmost con-
cession made is the addition of a few inches in length

and a due observance of the laws of proportion which
require that the width be decreased, while the waist line
may be lowered still more. All this, by the way, is ap-
plicable to frocks, for where the suit is concerned, there
is no such thing as a definite silhouette at all, so far
as the Canadian woman is concerned.

If you are young and slim and feminine, the youthful
little cape suit is yours and yours only. If you are more
mature there is a wide variety of severely tailored suits
of the type termed "classic" in Paris. If you desire to be
prepared for the week-end in the country you may select
from a wide range of sportsmanlike homespuns in true
English design, or again you may affect the trim jersey
suit which became firmly established last season. And
last, but most decidedly the most important point, you
may wear knickers developed in practically any material
you like, with a smartly tailored coat and skirt to match
or in contrast.

So with a bewilderingly wide range of styles to select
from, who shall say what the feminine figure should look
like? Suffice it to say that Miladi will be permitted to
express her own individuality as she has never before
been given opportunity to do, and whether she is as young
as the Spring itself or silvery haired, she may discover
the wherewithal to make herself more beautiful. In a
word, however, the mode expresses slenderness, but it is
not merciless to those who are no longer slim. The Spring
silhouette may be easily achieved because it is natural
and unrestrained.

Suits and Coats

Montreal makers are showing a considerable number
of suits combining the sleeveless frock designed on simple
lines, with a jaunty little box coat about 27 inches in
depth. The short box coat more often features a Raglan
effect in its sleeves which flare at the cuff after the
Japanese fashion, and its collar is often on the Peter
Pan style, which may be a twin button fastening, or the
coat may not button at all because the plain little dress
underneath matches exactly. There are generally two
small slashed pockets in the skirt and a string belt at the
normal waist line.

The "Butterfly" cape-coat is a particularly charming
variation on the box coat theme. This is often developed
in soft Poiret twill in hip length, the sleeves being simu-
lated by a stitch taken underneath each side and weighted
down with tassels of heavy black silk.

Mannish tailored suits of tricotine are trimmed spar-
ingly with black military braid or the edges are bound
with the same. The long shawl collar is preferred. In
less severe types of coat, considerable Swiss embroidery
is employed, but this kind of elaboration is usually found
only in the less expensive models.

Knicker suits are being featured in conformity with
the demand for such outfits for all kinds of sports, but in
view of the fact that the average woman prefers to be
conservative in town, *o matter what she may affect in
the country, the makers are providing these outfits with
a plain skirt to match, which makes them a sensible and
practical proposition. Although they are most commonly
found developed in rough tweeds trimmed with real
leather buttons on the skirt front and coat, yet there are
a few developed in heavy velours in the deer shades or
contrasts with white which are particularly smart for
riding. The knickers are designed to button on each hip

Dry Goods Revuw

READY-TO-WEAR

185

and are provided with convenient pockets on either side
of the front. The knees are finished with buttoned cuffs.

There are many charming and unusual models in sepa-
rate coats for early Spring wear. A leading Montreal
designer whose coats are always accorded the highest
praise, is showing two completely different ranges.
There are several stunning full length wrap coats of fine
navy blue tricotine, some of which have a turn-back front
on the tuxedo design, finished with a deep round collar.
Others are veritable capes extending to the skirt hem with
slits for the arms, and trimmed with a wonderful flying-
panel effect of silk fringe, nearly four feet deep all round.
This fringe resembles frayed silk ribbon on account of its
fineness and the wraps on which it is used are distinctly
French in appearance. Yet other long coats of navy blue
are designed on the "blouse-over" plan, with a soft full-
ness about the hips extending on into the sleeves. Nearly
all are simply belted in self material and have the new,
deep round collar which permits of different treatments.
Linings are gay in all cases.

Polo cloths in pastel colors and sand shades are much
featured, strictly tailored after English patterns, with
large patch pockets, leather buttons and notched lapels
which convert the big collar into another style.

Dresses For All Occasions

Montreal designers of frocks have not as yet seen fit
to break away from the charm of the youthful straight
line effect which has prevailed during the past season.
Most of the models shown this month for pre-Easter sell-
ing are developed in the darker shades, black, navy, etc.,
but are relieved from total sombreness by the use of
touchs of cherry color or bandings of Oriental embroidery
or even entire sleeves of some sheer fabric in a brilliant
flame or pearl grey tone. According to one designer the
majority of frocks for street wear will be of supple twilled
fabrics while those for more formal occasions will be of
crepe weaves and taffeta. However, a new fabric has
loomed up largely on fashion's horizon, namely, the new
Creponge or Chinchilla weaves, which are capable of
treatment in various manners and are shown in strictly
tailored styles as well as in quite elaborate designs.

There are innumerable smart models in navy tricotine
upon which a good deal of narrow colored soutache braid
is used to outline the edges of tunics or cuffs, etc., and
this braid is most often of a particularly striking cherry
shade which seems especially appropriate to Spring wear.
Here and there are seen simple wide girdles placed low
upon the hips after the prevailing lines, developed in
heavy black moire ribbon, knotted at one side. But nar-
row antique silver chain or coin girdles are shown as well
and various fancy effects in silk cord to which a few
gorgeously pointed beads are strung, ending in a tassel.

Wool is another pretty trimming which is employed in
new ways. A very straight Russian coat-dress was
finished with a two-inch wide banding of fluffy grey wool
round its high neck, all down the side front closing and
round the slightly flaring cuffs. Another little "flapper"
dress showed a narrow banding darned in grey wool all
round its scalloped skirt hem and its round neck.

Swiss embroidery is used on the popular priced lines
with excellent effect since the designs are more original
than usual. One frock of navy twill had a deep section
nearly 25 inches deep upon the skirt done in blue cross
stitch work, exactly like the patterns of olden time.
Other designs were shown, equally effective, and it is
said that as these can be done upon the fabric before it
is made up, the cost is considerably less although the
effect is quite as good as though it were applied after-
wards.

Some mention is made of steel beads in trimming
dresses, but the majority of designers who concentrate
upon the better class trade, say that smart women are

demanding wearing apparel which is distinctive by reason
of extreme simplicity for both formal and informal wear.

A few general points about frocks may be summarized
thus. Necks generally favor the bateau or Jenny neck,
sleeves are long and flaring, showing an inside facing of
color contrast. Skirts hang straight with an additional
inch or two of length in most cases, although this is not
really general.

A feature of the Spring season is the fact that the
majority of suits are being made with sleeveless frocks
instead of plain skirts. What the effect of this fashion
will be upon the dress trade remains to be seen.

A word relative to the new models in tub frocks and
house dresses is not out of place since style is now a
noticeable characteristic of these useful attributes of the
feminine wardrobe. The coming Spring and Summer will
see more charming little gingham, chambray, cretonne or
muslin frocks shown than have been shown for many
years. New pastel colorings in combination with bright
tones in checks and plain effects while there will be sev-
eral original ideas shown in which appliqued flowers from
cretonne are used on plain chambrays. Eton jacket
effects and the Bramley style will be incorporated in
gingham, adorably youthful and becoming.

Blouses and Skirts

A leading Montreal blouse importer and manufacturer
whose models are always a little ahead of the rest,
places his faith for the Spring season in the hand tailored
washable blouse featuring the tuxedo collar or Peter Pan
effect and developed in sheer voiles, batistes, georgettes
or crepe de chines. A glance around his show room
proves conclusively that white is the one and only- shade
to be featured. The reason for this sudden return to
the all white tailored blouse, he says, is because women
are going to adopt the sleeveless frocks or sports skirt
to a tremendous extent this season and there is nothing
which is so in keeping with either than the simple but
immaculate blouse. The majority are made with scarcely
any elaboration whatever but there is a good deal of
fillet lace used and quantities of drawn work in new pat-
terns. Eyelet work and tucks are other effective treat'
ments on sheer fabrics. The tuxedo collar used with a
vest effect on the front of the blouse is so universally
becoming to the majority of women that it has become
a standardized design needing only the individuality of
fine handwork to give it distinction.

Skirts which keep to simple effects promise the best
chance of success this Spring but this does not mean
that there is any lack of novelty in the range of fabrics.
Although the pleated and striped sports skirt has been
almost "done to death" of late, yet nothing quite takes
its place in feminine favor. So the new skirts for wear
when really warm weather arrives will feature flannels
in attractive border effects or in fancy weaves, home-
spuns in wonderfully lovely color effects both plain an-1
checked, new prunella cloths with satin stripes, and
eponge or Chinchilla materials.

The new sports silks also will provide plenty of
latitude for novelty. The new bold designs of satin upon
a crepe surface will offer sufficient variety in plain
fabrics while it is expected that color contrasts will still
be wanted since the vogue for silk sweaters is already
pronounced and always sets the pace for skirt fashions.

Although the Montreal manufacturers are showing-
knickers for the first time yet no fears are entertained
that they will in any way affect the popularity of the
sports skirt. In fact, all the suits in which knickers
form a part, are supplied with a smartly cut skirt as
well. Knickers however are the "dark horse" in both
American and Canadian style centres, and although
everyone professes to consider them an amusing novelty
there is no doubt that they represent the thin edge of
(Continued on Page 189)

In;

READY-TO-WEAR

Dry Goods Review

Spring Buying is Reported Brisk

Manufacturers in Toronto Say Stocks Have Been Cleaned Up and
Retailers Eager for Spring Models — Taffetas Proving Strongest
Sellers — The New Cap Dress — Gowns to be Little Longer — Man-
ufacturers Making Strong Bid for Blouse Business

TORONTO manufacturers of
women's dresses and suit's are in
better mood regarding business
conditions than they have been for many
months. Though very few sent their
travelers out before the third week of
January, they say that orders have al-
ready come in, some unsolicited, in
quantities which are very encouraging.
The retail trade seems determined to go
after business. The buying policy of last
year kept many of them out of financial
difficulties, but did not net them much
profit. The daily newspapers are now
talking optimism, the leading journals
are encouraging the public to buy and
all that seems needed is a little encour-
agement from those who carry merchan-
dise from the maker to wearer, in order
to get the wheels turning.

One manufacturer declares retail
stocks are so depleted that travelers are
being welcomed by merchants throughout
the country. Not in many years, has
there been such an opportunity for the
man who is selling to the trade. More-
over, retailers are following the lead of
manufacturers and depending 0.1 large
turnovers rather than on steep prices
in their ready-to-wear lines. The day
when dresses can be sold in any number
above sixty-five dollars is pas", and so
are those which saw quantities being
purchased at prices ranging from fifteen
to eighteen dollars. The dresses which
the public want are somewhere between
twenty-five and forty-five dollars. This
is a healthy condition for the ready-to-
wear business, because it indicates a
recovery from the buy-as-cheap-as-you-
can policy which inspired fear in all and
very little tendency toward the extrav-
agant buying methods which preceded it
and which were in a great part respons-
ible for the period of depression.

Taffeta Gowns Leading

A tour of the manufacturing houses
in Toronto, proves unmistakably that
taffetas will be the best sellers t'his
spring. They come in the class of ready-
to-wear lines which is good but not
extravagant. In taffeta, the color choice
seems to be: brown, navy, black. Sim-
plicity of style and youthful lines mark
the collection which has come in from
Paris and New York. There are some
novel effects in trimming and an air
of individuality about most of the gowns.
Embroidery braid is used in place of the
beading so conspicuous . on fall
models.

In he silk materials, canton and crepe-
knit are strongest. Canton is shown in
black, the blues and some are all-white.
Both of these materials are used in the
more exclusive models. The new Mo-

hawk red is being introduced into the
better gowns, in sleeves, callars and
cuffs or trimmings.

The semi-formal dress continues in
favor, many of these models now being
made with high necks and lower at the
back — a style which was introduced with
great eclat to New York early in the
fall and which is said to meet with the
approval of Canadian designers.

Combinations of materials in frocks
fo>* street wear are particularly interest-
ing, colored panels, some of them set
in the gown, are favored as means of in-
troducing color into black faille or canton
crepes. Sleeve treatments are somewhat
different in the models shown. They are
wide to a point below the elbow and then
fastened in to fit the arm. The wide
part is often embroidered and the lower
part plain.

PWk Seen More Than Blue
Navy blue has not yet shown its
usual spring activity. Except in the
taffetas, navy has given way to black,
not only in street and sports frocks but
in dressy gowns as well. If it were not
for the touch of color which character-
izes nearly all of them, the display would
he a very sombre affair. One designer
believes that the bright shades in sports
clothes is responsible for the demand for
it in trimmings on all frodcs.

Crepe de chine has been by no mean.',
overlooked by buyers who have just re-
turned from the metropolis. In fact,
some of the smartest models and most
of the all-bright gowns are of t'his ma-
terial. There is one of green crepe de
chine, with four plea+eH panels on the
skirt and a touch of paisley on the
sleeves.

There is a decided likinc; f .r the sailor
knot' on many of the gowns. These have
very often the sailor collar as well and
even the more elaborate gowns are made
up in this juvenile yet becom ; n»- style.

A model for the mature type of
woman is of grey Canton crene with
loose flowing sleeves. Cere braid is the
only trimming used. Rows of it half an
inch apart cover the bodice and sleeves.
It appears again on the skirt. Modistes
declare that cere ribbon and braid will
be almost as popu'ar on dresses as they
are on the spring hats.

Henna is by no means d'searded but
there are no dresses of the all-henna
shade so far. Orange, maroon, pink and
coral are also good, th» two latter
shades appearing often alone in the
dinner dress types.

Cape Dress the Newest Creation
Of all the gowns which are brighten-
ing the houses of import' rs an 1 manu-
facturers these days those with the

long cape coming several inches below
the waist line are receiving most atten-
tion. These are best in taffeta because
they are designed for the girlish, trim
figure. Some of the collars on these
capes, which, by the way, are attached
to the gown at the shoulders, come very
high at the back in a modern Catherine
de Medici style. Though originally de-
signed for street wear, these dresses are
made up in afternoon models as well.
Vancouver is favoring them particular-
ly and manufacturers are trying to keep
them only in the better class of mater-
ials for at least two months yet, in the
hope tha their popularity will not spoil
their possibilities.

There is a tendency to add an inch or
two to the lengths of most of the gowns.
New York's best houses are taking the
lead in this and Toronto designers think
that the women on this side are about
ready for them. The long waistline is
adhered to most rigidly in every class
of gown and for the matron as well as
the miss. The bouffant hip style has
taken hold as never before, three out of
every four models showing the hip line
extended with canvas.

Porch Dresses of Gingham
Again Miss Gingham will be the child
of fortune in the summer frocks. Gay
checked gingham will appear every-
where, not only in the simple models
but in those with tucked and ruffled
organdie trimmings. Tissue gingham is
probably the best because it is very cool
for warm weather wear. Cretonne is al-
so made up into summer dresses, the
simple house dress and the allover apron
be'n' r nrcbablv the most popular in this
market.

Will Blouses Go This Spring.

Most certainly the manufacturers are
doing their part to inspire an interest
in blouses. They say that this branch
of the ready-to-wear business must re-
turn sooner or later and indications arc
that this will be the season. The Ameri-
can cities are having a rush on ths
tailored styles and our manufacturers
have made up some houses alone: this
order, in the hope that with the golf-
ing season and the first suits, women
will buy them. In the meantime, orders
for Toronto houses have been mostly
for the most elaborate and expensive
blouses. One firm is selling all the
blouses tV, it it can turn out. These
are usually in combinations, the panels
at back and front being of navy, brown
or black satin, and the sleeves, upper
part and sash in one of the following
shades: gold, coral, Mohawk red and
orange.

Dry Goods Review

READY-TO-WEAR

1ST

Devoting Special Section to Each Class of

Garment Makes for More Effective Appeal

Policy Tried Out Successfully by Murphy — Gamble of Ottawa

— Various Lines are Kept Separate and Individual Setting Given

to Each- — The Blouse Shop — Other Features

A READY-TO-WEAR department
which is invested with unusual at-
tractiveness in the opinion of the
many women who patronize it, is that
located in the Murph-Gamble Company's
store in Ottawa. The peculiar atmos-
phere which is responsible for the popu-
larity which the department possesses
may be attributed to the fact that the
entire staff are specialists in the art of
selling clothes, — from manager down;
and second, to the equally important cir-
cumstances that the stock carried is of
the more exclusive type, selected for its
individuality as well as for its novelty.
In discussing with Dry Goods Review
some of the features of the department
the management pointed out the import-
ance of specializing in the different lines
of apparel carried. It is practically im-
possible nowadays to merchandize high
class ready-to-wear successfully if it is
all displayed and sold indiscriminately in
one section. Each class of garments re-
quires a special setting and an atmos-
phere of its own or its most effective
appeal is entirely lost.

Bearing this in mind therefore, the
Murphy-Gamble store accents each of
its various lines and maintains a dis-
tinct section for evening gowns, after-
noon frocks, apparel for large women
and also for young girls. Blouses and
skirts too, have their appointed section
and yet the entire department co-ordin-
ates into a smoothly running machine.

Keep Various Lines Distinct

There is no idea of segregation how-
ever, about the different parts of the
ready-tc-wear section. That is to say,
no visible partitions are erected to separ-
ate one from another. The distinctive-
ness of each line is more a matter of
arrangement and orderly sequence than
of actual divisions. System, so frequent-
disregarded in such departments, reigns
supreme.

To particularize about the various
lines, the management have reason to
be proud of their line of suits and wraps
for the larger woman. The store caters"
especially to this type and carries gar-
ments in stock up to sizes 50 and 52.
These garments are exceedingly well de-
signed and finished, and although more
costly than ordinary clothing yet are
popular with customers, to whom the
additional cost is no deterrent. Suffi-
cient stock between the sizes of 40 and
50 is carried to meet practically every
demand for such apparel, and in the
matter of price it is found possible to
feature moderately low figures, on the
basis of averaging up on the purchasing
cost of the smaller and larger sizes. In
order to ascertain what is a fair price, a

certain amount of experiment is neces-
sary, but the ideal combination of a
moderate selling price combined with a
normal profit may be arrived at quite
easily.

Exceptional care is devoted to the
selection of the types of garments des-
tined for larger women. Colorings, sil-
houettes, trimmings — all are studied
afresh each season by experts, so that
the woman of ampler proportions may
place herself unreservedly in the hands
of the staff and be ensured complete
satisfaction.

Evening Gowns

The store likewise makes a specialty
of evening gowns, ranging from the
simple little dance frock for Miss De-
butante to the elaborate toilette des-
tined to grace some matron. Social
events are exceedingly numerous in Ot-
tawa especially during the winter sea-
son, and the demand for smart gowns
for all occasions is unlimited. The sec-
tion devoted to the showing of dinner
and dance frocks is well located, and is
lighted with brilliant artificial illumina-
tion, so necessary to the best effect of
the dress. Close at hand are kept the
wraps, also an important item in the
fashionable woman's wardrobe, and a
small table of dainty accessories — fans,
jewellery, slipper buckles, or hair orna-
ments, hosiery, gloves, etc., is both a
decorative and an essential part of the
scheme of arrangement.

In the matter of evening frocks, it is
found that women require to replenish
their wardrobes fairly frequently, ow-
ing to the wear and tear incidental to
dancing. It is a foregone conclusion
that a customer shall be permitted to
try on as many gowns as she fancies,
since she may see something which will
bring her back again to make a sup-
plementary purchase.

Furs are also carried in the ready to
wear section and are effectively display-
ed in the best possible light at the front
of the store beside the largest windows.
When the sale of fur coat is made, the
saleswoman invariably mentions the fact
that a sports skirt and tailored shirt
waist are the ideal combination to wear
under a fur coat every day. The color-
ing or pattern of the skirt affording a
smart contrast to the sombreness of
the peltry.

The Blouse Shop
To the rear of the ready to wear sec-
tion is located the blouse department,
in which also the same highly specializ-
ed attention is devoted both to the selec-
tion of stock and to the satisfaction of
purchasers. Here also, blouses for the
stout woman are an important feature,

and sizes, even in the sheerest and most
elaborate styles range as high at 4S and
even 52 in ordinary materials. Some
hints of more than usual value were
gleaned from the head of this section.
For example, the Murphy-Gamble waist
department undertakes to fit customers
perfectly, and makes it a point to suit
the individual type of every woman
even though it entails alteration to the
blouse itself. Few stores realize how
important it is that sleeves should fit
well, and more particularly, that the
length should be becoming and comfort-
able. The fit of collars, moreover, is
another pitfall into which the unwary
saleslady sometimes falls. The sea-
son there are two distinct types of
blouse, the tailored and the dressy. The
tailored blouse may be either of the tux-
edo collar or the Puritan style, while the
dressy blouse is generally of the tie-
back, slip-over sort with a round neck-
line unrelieved by a color contrast.

Experience Essential in Blouse Selling

In determining which of these types
should be adopted by any customer, the
saleswoman needs considerable experi-
ence. She must be familiar with the
various types of figure with which she
comes in contact, so that she will be
able to tell in advance the style of
blouse which will be most becoming.
The roundfaced type can wear the Puri-
tan collar successfully, but the face must
be young and fresh. Likewise, if a tux-
edo collar is selected, let it be of the con-
ventional type with narrow collar be-
cause few women can wear the revere
style of collar with success. This width
across the chest should not be accentu-
ated. Elbow sleeves should be rarely
sold to older women and the tie-back
blouse should be fitted on the customer
in every case, even though she may feel
positive that it suits her exactly. There
are as many differences in blouses as in
corsets, and everyone knows the neces-
sity for expert fitting of the latter type
of accessory.

The saleswoman furthermore, will
make a close study of color with respect
to the different types of complexion
most commonly met with among cus-
tomers. She will not advise any color
merely because it is "all the fashion."
She will rather try the effect of a pale
orchid upon a blonde girl, or a vivid jade
for the woman of coppery locks. The
fashionable tans or sand shades can be
successfully sold to women who have
plenty of color, while navy blue can be
sold to any one provided it has collar
and cuffs of an effective contrast such
as tan.

(Continued on pags 1SS)

188

READY-TO-WEAR

Dry Goods Review

Late Styles From Old New York

Dry Goods Review Goes Sight-Seeing — Many Novelties Brighten
Up America's Style Centre — Things Worth Seeing And Having

EARLY spring- gowns show a great
number of berthas of point lace
and other real laces. Rounded
necklines coming to the base of the
throat are more often seen than lower

ones.

* * *

Short fur coats are becoming more
prominent than ever on fashionable
thoroughfares. They are woim with
separate skirts and with tailored frocks
On Park and Fifth Avenues, there are
women to be seen wearing beaver, rac-
coon, Hudson seal and muskrat with
skirts of rust color.

* * *

Tortoise shell bracelets are the latest
hat ornaments. Some of them are set
with rhinestones. The newest note in
trimmings of all kinds is sea-shell. A
variation of these shells ' is seen in an
ornament which has the same color and
effect as the shell but is actually com-
position. It is shaped like a tiny cush-
ion.

New York women are showing a great
preference for pongee in the natural
shades in their underwear this season.
They like the tailored sets, particularly
in vests and step-ins. One retailer,
who does business just off Broadway
says that two-thirds of the silk under-
wear business is done in sets. Black
in underwear, nighties and pajamas is
best after the pongee shade, with hon-
eydew. orchid, beige, blue and flesh fol-
lowing in the order named.

* * *

There is a new dress on the market
for the little girl which is said to be
specially favored bv Fifrh Avenue de-
signers. It consists of a dress with
bloomers attached and is in one piece
so that it can be slipped on and off con-
veniently.

* * *

There are retail houses and manufac-
turers springing up every day which
cater only to the requirements of s'out
women. One New York hoire sells only
those skirts which have a waistband
measurement of 32 to 50 inches. Most
of these firms favor pleats, especially
box pleats. These are usually stitche I
down over the hips to take away the

fulness.

* * *

One of the most interesting tenden-
cies observed in New York these days,
is that which favors a sports style for
the very young child. Not only the
junior girl is wearing rport costumes
but the verv little one has frocks of this

type, so popular with grown-ups. Sports
coats and sports capes for tots from one
to four years, made up in polo cloth and
in the tan shades are two of the latest
additions to the range of garments now
shown.

Among the smartest models offered
in the shops for women going south, is
the red linen frock. One of these is of
cherry red non-crushable linen in blous-
ed effect with a collar and wide girdle
embroidered in black and white wool and
finished at the neck with a loose sailor
tie of black satin. There is also a red
linen coatdress with a deep shawl collar
and cuffs of grey linen embroidered in
red and white wool. Large pearl but-
tons fasten it in front and a string sash

of grey ties at one side .

* * *

Contrasting shades are the keynote of
style in the metropolis to-day. There
are very few costumes being made
which are trimmed or embroidered with
self-material. Moreover, the con rasting
color is of a very bright shade whenever
the costume itself is of a dark material.

* * *

The latest lingerie importations from
France show a great vog-ue for drawn
work. Inserts of moon-shaped white
organdie are also very prominent among

the fancy lines.

* * *

The revival of muffs this month is
taken as an indication of a general re-
turn to "hand furs" next year. The
fact that Princess Mary has been photo-
graphed wearing a muff will, it is believ-
ed give an added impetus. In Paris the
muff has appeared conspicuously at
fashionable restaurants and theatres.
Fifth Ave. sees one or two muffs in
every block during the shopping hours.
The loose wrap was largely responsible
for the discard of these fur accessories
but now with the tendency toward the
fitted garments, the return of muffs
seems certain. The tendency of muff-
ing hands in sleeves is also passing.

* * *

High colors in Spanish laces promise
to be popular for party dresses for late
win'er and early spring. There are at
least eleven colors in as many different
patterns in laces of this type ready for
the approval of Miss New York.

* * *

.Fur stylists declare that the industry
must shortly be prepared to present
some pelt to the public to take the place
of Hudson seal, if consumer inerests in
furs is to be maintained. New York
furriers are inclined to favor the Chin-

ese kid skin or kid caracul as it is to
be known. Kid caracul is very much
like Russian caracul. The difference,
some s.udents of fur-bearing animals,
dec'.are, is purely geographical. In ap- '
pearance, kid and caracul are quite
alike. The leather of the Chinese kid
is less durable than than of the caracul.
If this fur takes as well in America as
it has in Europe, designers are plannng
nex„ winter a season of cara:ul coats,

wraps and trimmings.

* * *

Tweeds and crepes are the favorite
materials for street wear in New York.
These dresses are made along straight
lines. The tailored tweed sports frocks
are especially attractive as they are
shown in all the newest pastel shades
and are made to slip over the head and
fasten in front with silver or colored but-
tons. Poiret twills in both chemise and
bloused effects* are also offered for

street wear.

* * *

Black taffeta will we worn by the
young child for afternoons, Fifth Aven-
ue shops declare. A model for a child
of five, is embroidered all over with
small spots in varied colors. Along the
same lines for an older girl is a long-
wasted black taffeta dress, wth skirt
embroidered in orange' cherries. This
color and material is also favored for
the debutante's spring gown.

DEVOTING SPECIAL SECTION

(Continued from page 187)
$50 Blouses

Although $50. blouses are not by any
means rare in the Murphy-Gamble ready
to wear department, yet these too are
carefully selected, with regard to their
lines. Few expensive models in large
sizes are carried all the time, but rather
those styles which are certain to be be-
coming to the average woman. Ex-
tremes are not profitable in any of the
blouse lines, nor are they popular even
with wealthy women. A few are inter-
esting for display purposes, but the ma-
jority of women who care to spend a
large amount upon a single blouse, in-
sist that it be simple and becoming.

The canons of good tase, by which the
choice of all ready to wear is governed,
dictate that becomingness to a woman's
peculiar type shall be the perpetual
standard followed in making any sale.
Expense, durability, etc., are really sec-
ondary considerations, it has been found
in the case of ready to wear, when once
the wearer's own personality is express-
ed in terms of smartness and individual-
ity.

Dry Goods Review

READY-TO-WEAR

18!)

Ready-to-Wear — Spring 1922

Continued fi

the wedge insofar as the modification of
feminine fashion is concerned. That
they will be bought is a certainty, pro-
vided sufficient publicity is given them.

Here are Some of the Fine Points of

the Spring Fashions Briefly

Summarized

The "Jenny" neck or collarless effect
predominates in frocks.

The high shades will be seen in frocks
a little later, inic'uding fuchia, mauve,
cornflower blue and biege.

Regular tailored coats will be 32 inch-
es long while box styles will average 27
inches.

The Japanese or flowing sleeve will
be seen on both tailored and dressy
frocks.

Skirt lengths will show an additional
inch or two but no extra fullness.

om page 184

Pockets are introduced on suits in var-
ied shapes.

The linings must be gaily colored in
bizarre patterns for navy suits.

Low bloused waist-lines are becoming
stronger.

Yokes are used on the back of loose
coats to give the required "swing."

•Buttons are used conservatively in
all cases.

Flat braids are extensively used.

Prices will talk this Spring and the
makers have recognized that simple de-
signs, fine workmanship and e'imination
of needless elaboration must be essen-
tial characteristics of the Snrin- 1 -
models. They have made a special ef-
fort to fea'ure garments which can be
retai'ed at a low figure, feeling that
the moderately priced gown or suit will
form the backbone of Spring business.

Paris Pre-Opening Activities

SEVERE and Fancy Suits by Moly-
neux, Jenny, Madeleine et Madeleine,
Bernard and Beer — Salient Style
Tendencies from Brandt, Dreco.l, Paul
Poiret and Alice Bernard — Black not so
good this Season.

Paris. — Brandt is getting away from
the strictly tailored suit, and says he
will give preference to the dressier type
of suit in heavy supple silk.

A cape developed in white crepe, veil-
ed with whi.e lace and fringed with er-
mine tails shows the tendency of this
house to favor dressy styles generally.

* * *

At the Maison Drecol!, they are in-
clined toward short jackets, although
the long straight*, ones will still be
featured, especially for tall women to
whom this style is particularly becom-
ing.

Popeline and ribbed fabrics have been
selected as the leading materials for
tailor-mades, and for color, the beige
shades are expected to be a dominant
note, and also a greenish beige which
is called in French, by this house "Oeuf-
de-Cane," and which will be featured
principally in the covert coat fabrics.

Navy blue is also mentioned here.
Some white woollen tailor-mades are be-
ing prepared by the Maison Drecoll, a'-
so some fancy ones, particularly in
Scotch plaid designs.

* * *

Paul Poiret is showing the tendency
that he intends featuring for spring in
a few sports models which have straight
skirts, rather short and wide.

In one instance, it is of white wool
striped in green and yellow with solid
cloth of green duvetyn.

The fabrics used for these sports cos-
tumes include broad cloth, heavy wool-
'en, duvetyn, agnella, etc., and one of

the favorite colors is red, in which color
is a fancy little jacket in toile cire,
trimmed with gray fur and accompanied
by a skirt of gray broadcloth.

Alice Bernard, comments upon ex-
tremely softly draped suits in reps,
serge and crepe morocain, mostly in the
darker shades, to be brightened by a
little embroidery.

Many of her suits wi'l be three-piece
affairs, with the top of the dress in
sheerer fabrics.

* * *

Madame Jenny comments favorably
on the dressier types of suits with
youthful, short paletot or medium
length jacket, belted at low waistline,
and without pockets.

In fabrics, navy bure is a favorite
wit'h her, because it is both heavy and
supple at the same time.

* * *

Madeleine et Madeleine say that they
will show both the severe and fancy
types; the jackets will be slightly fit-
ted, and accompanied either by simple
skirts or by an entire dress, the top of
which i s of crepe georgette.

Soft broadcloth and light velour de
laine are offered to start the season.

Bernard & Co., speaking of next
Spring tendencies for suits, say that
they will favor the supple and fancy
type of suit rather than the strictly
tailored, and believe in a good season
for that type of suits.

They will make the jacket three-quart-
er length, with the waist placed low,
the skirt about the same length as that
of the present Winter season. Sleeves
will remain rather wide at bottom, and

New Dutch Romper for boys and girls
from two to six years. Made in cham-
bray and pique. These are daintily trim-
med in contrasting colors of chambray
with hand-embroidered design of ani-
mals in front. Shown by Canadian Per-
fect Garment Co., Toronto.

belts will come back to favor, it is ex-
pected.

As to colors, the predictions are
about the same as in most other houses,
that is, beige in its different shades, in-
cluding what is called here covert
shades, and also some mixtures in reps
and tricotine.
— From Women's Wear, New York.

A most enjoyable evening was spent
by the management and staff at the first
annual banquet of the J. Bouideau and
Son, Limited, wholesale furriers, he'd at
the Canadian Club.

The full staff and directorate vied
with each other in celebrating a most
successful year's business.

The various toasts were received with
an enthusiasm that testified to the. cordi-
al relations existing between the man-
agement and the staff.

KENT-McCLAIN AGAIN

C. B. Lockhart, Kentville, N. S.

Mr. C. B. Lockhart. of Kentville, N. S.
has added new "Dresden' silent salesmen
to the equipment installed a few months
ago. These cases in rich Vi-cut Oak were
supplied by Kent-McCIain Limited. (To-
ronto Show Case Company!.

190

READY-TO-WEAR

Dry ifoods Review

P. G. Blatchly
Western Ontario

F. L. Couch
Western Ontario

W. R. McArthur
Western Ontario

D. W. Mcintosh
Sales Manag-er

H. H. Tillman
Ottawa

J. E. Labrosse
Montreal

W. E. Campbell
Montreal

SERVICE & QUALITY

We again present herewith to the Mer-
chants of Canada our sales force, mem-
bers of which called on you last year.
These same men are now on their respec-
tive territories and will endeavor to main-
tain that important link between our
customers and this house by seeing that
you are supplied with the right merchan-
dise, at the right price. This in turn spells
SERVICE which is secured by modern
methods of purchasing, manufacturing,
inspecting, packing and shipping, all of
which are embraced by the Ladies' Wear,
Limited, system.

Ladies \Vear, Limited

W. F. Gofortk

A. K. Mackasey
Maritime Provinces

Di'u Goods Revii w

READY-TO-WEAR

101

W. L. Sutherland,
Northern Ontario

C. N. Beaton
Toronto

C. G. Sinclair
Toronto

W. McMillan
Winnipeg

SERVICE & QUALITY

Quality pays handsomely — it is the best
and only lever to raise prices and increase
profits. The customer you hold by the
slender thread of low price is here to-day
and gone to-morrow; the customer you
hold by service and quality is bound to
you — a permanent asset of your business.
It will be our endeavor to maintain and
even improve that standard of SERVICE
for which our organization has ever stood.
We look to you again for your co-opera-
tion, that has so generously been extended
in the past, and without which our efforts
would be in vain.

P. H. Showier

Western Manitoba and

Eastern Sask.

R. B. Snell
Saskatchewan

C. R. Hind
Nor. hern Alberta

563 College St., Toronto

H. W. Martin

Southern Alberta and

Interior B. C.

President

W. J. Crooks
Pacific Coast

192

READY-TO-WEAR

Dry Goods Review

ANNOUNCEMENT

MANUFACTURING

SILK DRESSES ONLY

SPRING LINE READY

SPECIALIZING IN WOMEN'S AND STOUTS

THE FINEST of WORKMANSHIP

THE FINEST of MATERIALS

USED— ONLY

LA SALLE DRESS CO.

LIMITED

DUBRULE BLDG., PHILLIPS SQUARE

MONTREAL

TORONTO SHOWROOM:
Room 836
KING EDWARD HOTEL
W. J. Meyer

WINNIPEG SHOWROOM:
302 HAMMOND BLK.
W. J. Collett

Dry Goods Review

READY-TO-WEAR

193

AMERICAN WAIST & DRESS CO. LTD.

EVERY WOMAN IS PROUD
WHEN SHE WEARS A BLOUSE
THAT HAS STYLE, FIT AND FIN-
ISH. —THERE ARE NONE BETTER
MADE.

BLOUSES

WE HAVE ADDED TO OUR
SPRING RANGE A FINE LINE
OF TAILORED SWISS VOILES.

PRICES ARE RIGHT

HAND MADE

•BLOUSES-

IS ANOTHER FEATURE ADDED
TO OUR RANGE. STOCK ALWAYS
ON HAND.

MODERATELY PRICED

AMERICAN WAIST & DRESS CO. LTD.

MONTREAL

TORONTO SHOWROOM:

Room 836
KING EDWARD HOTEL
W. J. Meyer
R. P. Richardson

MARITIME PROVINCES:
A. TENCER

WINNIPEG&SHOWROOM:
302 HAMMOND BLK.
W. J. Collett

19-1

READY-TO-WEAR

Dry Goods Review

for Misses and Juniors

from "The House of Youth"

In the new developments of Fashion which the "House of
Youth" presents for Spring there is emphasized that style
leadership and assurance of quality which buyers have
learned to expect.

And price — which is keenly of importance — has been ac-
corded mopt favorable consideration, that you and your
customers might be well pleased.

Designers and Makers of

Misses' and Juniors' Dresses

The Counter Costume Co.

Limited

129-139 Spadina Ave., Toronto

REPRESENTATIVES :

Eastern and Northern Ontario, A. B. Colwell

Western and Southern Ontario. R. Kennedy

Toronto, R. O. Hargrave Western Canada, J. Howard

Maritime Provinces. W. A. Tallmire

Montreal and Quebec. J. A. Michaud

Spring
Suits and Coats

Our travellers are now on the road with samples of our new
spring line of Suits and Coats, in all the most desirable and
seasonable fabrics. The tailoring of these garments is of
the best and the styles are distinctive and original.

If you are looking for the combination of the highest quality
standards at prices women like to pay to-day, write for our
Representative to call on you or call at our showroom when
in the city. Our garments will interest you.

Corner St. Catherine W. & Mountain Sts.,

MONTREAL

Dry Goods Review

READY-TO-WEAR

195

An Amazing Success in
Misses' and Children's

Dress Specialization

Our new range of Children's and Misses'
Dresses offer unusual inducements to those
who seek winsome styles and smartness of
finish at

POPULAR PRICES
New effects in — Serge, Tricotine, Satin,
Charmeuse, Canton Crepe and Taffeta.
Travellers now out. Be the first in your
town to feature this already popular line.
Write for particulars.

Hargrave Dress Co.

129-139 Spadina Ave., Toronto

REPRESENTATIVES : »

Eastern and Northern Ontario, A. B. Colwell

Western and Southern Ontario, R. Kennedy

Toronto, R. O. Hargrave Western Canada, J. Howard

Maritime Provinces. W. A. Tallmire

Montreal and Quebec. J. A. Michaud

F. F. FREEMAN

Announcing

The Formation of the New Firm of

FREEMAN-HUCKVALE

LIMITED
Specialists in

Infants', Girls' and Boys' Wear, Child-
ren's Headwear, Bonnets, Wash Hats,
Straws, Plush and Beavers, Children's
Cotton Wearing Apparel.

>6 Spadina Ave., Darling Bldg., Toront°

P. E. HUCKVALE

GIVE VALUE and you GET BUSINESS!
IS OUR POLICY

Our Spring line of

Dresses

comprises just the kind of dresses the up-to-date woman wants to wear and the prices
are just the prices she wants to pay — $10 and up.

Canada Costume Company

198A St. Catherine Street - Montreal

L96

READY-TO-WEAR

Dry Goods Review

Travellers are now on their respective territories with

a snappy range of :

DRESSES

Priced to get you right profits and mounting sales.

It is our aim, this Spring, to give you the Best Fabrics, the Best Styles
and the Best Workmanship that your money can buy.

M. GARDNER & COMPANY LIMITED

233 BLEURY STREET - MONTREAL

Western Representative: F. G. CAMPBELL, Winnipeg & Vancouver

i'i

The "Canadian Lady"
Dress Stands Alone

in style and quality, and has earned its reputation of
"Constant Seller" on sheer merit.

Ranged in Ginghams, Crepes, Chambrays and
Prints, it is just the distinctive kind of wash dress
to appeal to the particular woman. We have not
lost sight of the real purpose of a house dress.
"Canadian Lady" dresses are well made, and neatly
finished.

Write us for catalogue and prices.

THE CANADIAN LADY DRESS
COMPANY, LIMITED.

KITCHENER ONTARIO

Dry Goods Review

READY-TO-WEAR

197

HAVE YOU HANDLED OUR GOODS BEFORE ?
IF NOT WHY ?

Let our travellers show you our line.
You'll be surprised.

A BETTER MADE GARMENT
FOR LESS MONEY

We Manufacture

Gingham Street, Porch and Apron
Dresses, Girls' Dresses from 3 to 14,
from print and gingham. Also print
house and apron dresses.

Rompers, Creepers, etc.

CANADIAN PERFECT GARMENT CO.

513-515 College St., Toronto.

HORROCKSES

FAMOUS

COTTONS

are advertised and widely used from
Coast to Coast.

We have in Montreal a good assort-
ment of these cottons, ready for imme-
diate delivery.

Why not keep up your stock and share
in this worth-while quality business
^lP§^ during 1922?

^ f // not on our mailing list, please write —

John E. Ritchie Dry Goods Commission Agent.

_ 591 St. Catherine St. W., Montreal.

Branches:

64 Wellington St. W., Toronto.
29 Minshull St.,

615 Pender St. W., Vancouver. B.C.
Manchester, England.

See our Spring range of CHIL-
DREN'S DRESSES, they include
a wide range of styles; "The
Jumper," "Chevy Chase," and
many others.

We are also showing nice lines
in CHILDREN'S WHITE
VOILE and MUSLIN DRESSES.
Our travellers now have their
complete ranges of LADIES' and
MISSES' READY TO WEAR
and would be glad to show you
;heir samples.

VASSIE & COMPANY

LIMITED

Wholesale Dry Goods and
Woollen Merchants

ST. JOHN

N. B.

SPRING

IMPORTANT NOTICE

1922

Our travellers are now on the road with our new Spring line of COATS and SUITS.
The dealer, who looks ahead, will readily realize the sales possibilities of this mer-
chandise.

To visiting buyers we extend an invitation to visit our showrooms, where the display
facilities make selection both easy and pleasant.

The Regent Cloak Co.,

CLOAKS & SUITS

321 Bleury St. Montreal

mini

MONEY-SA

"The most useful information containec
renewing his subscription for FINANC
"Very often," his letter goes on to say,
times as low as a few hundreds, and I 1
If every investor knew there was such ser
people."

The Investors' Inquiry Service fills just tin
us before you buy.

It costs Financial Post subscribers nothing
may never have a chance of paying dividei
Trained service men will give you the bene,
you are considering. This is one of many ft

THE FINANCIAL POST, 1

Send me for one year (52 issues) The Fi.

198

WESTERN TRADE NEWS

Dry Goods Review

Keep up the Clerks' Morale By
Messages in Weekly Envelope

System Followed by the W. W. Cooper Store in

Swift Current — The Golden Rule Store — Some

Useful Lessons Suggested to Help Along Life's

Highway.

IN THE weekly pay envelope distributed
by the W. W. Cooper Co. of Swift
Current, Saskatchewan, a message is
conveyed, the intent of which, perhaps, is to
give an added sprightliness to the step, a
new zest in life, an ideal that lingers through-
out the week that lies ahead. This store is
called "The Golden Rule Store," and their
little "Employees' Pay Envelope Enclo-
sure" somehow reflects the spirit of the or-
ganization as expressed in the golden rule.
It can well be imagined that a clerk would
read over these messages at the end of a
hard week's work feeling that a spirit of
good-will was contained in them and that
the management had something else in view
than merely engaging people to work for
them. Lessons can be learned by the way-
side no matter what kind of work may be
engaged in as one travels along the road.
These lessons are brought home to the clerks
in a refreshing way by these little enclosures
and they are well worth reading and giving
some thought to. It is not without interest
to know that they are printed right in the
Cooper establishment, for they have a print-
ing press of their own which is devoted to
many kinds of advertising matter.

Below are a couple of enclosures for the
employees' envelopes.

Constructive Ideas

To the colorless, the noneffective, the
unachieving in life, I commend this ob-
servation by a modern philosopher:

"Magnetism, influence and power are
created within, and thus every creative
thought makes environment, makes the
surrounding atmosphere, and, like a magnet,
attracts outward influences to increase the
power further.'

And again :

"You have powers within yourself of
which you little dream. Each step you
take forward will clear you for another step.

"Belief in self, coupled with a fixed ideal

and ev «** *—* '

plis 1 -

and inferior. He perhaps sought place for
selfish ends. His ideal, perhaps, was sym-
bolized in the dollar mark. Or his aspira-
tions may have been confined within the
barren limits of self-satisfaction through
material pleasures.

Gaining any or all of these aims — as the
energetically self-trustful may gain them —
he yet must be accounted a nonentity, a
failure, as he will frankly account himse'f in
moments of honest self-communing.

"I have missed something," will be his
lament, the lament of every man whose con-
structive thinking lacks idealism and there-
fore, in the last analysis, is not really con-
structive thinking at all.

Certainly magnetism will not accrue
to the nonidealistic thinker; nor true achieve-
ment either. He may be no longer colorless
but others will scarcely be attracted by the
character of his coloring.

Constructive thinking, finally, means
cheerful thinking.

Even the unselfishly self-trustful, the
nobly endeavoring, encounter checks and
disappointments. If they allow these to
chill their souls, if they allow them to embit-
ter their minds, then do they forthwith lose
their grip on the powers they have been us-
ing.

Every despairing thought, every gloomy
one, every thought at all tinged with pessim-
ism, is a thought that helps to weaken and
destroy.

Multiply such thoughts and the end will
be failure irretrievable.

On Making Mistakes

The business world abounds in big win-
ners. But it is conspicuously short in win-
ners who can boast of an errorless record
in their playing of the game of life. Ask any
one of those who have won to the top, and it
is almost a certainty you will be told:

"Mistakes? Of course I have made
mistakes. Mv career is peppered with them.

akes who

labor-

akes a
o never
• occas-
•om the

r foolish,
ikes some
who make

.e a mistake

/nmy in the

useum."

;at difference

)f the wise and

eciate the mis-
ty go on making
;nd of their days.

The wise recognise their mistakes, profit
from the recognition, and are careful not to
repeat them.

It is, for example, a serious mistake to
give way to anger in one's business deal-
ings. Anger not merely breeds hostility
and antagonism in others, but, because of its
damaging effects on mind and body, it
impairs the efficiency of the one who indulg-
es in it.

The wise man, noting the evil products
of anger, irritability, sullenness and the like,
will not long remain a slave to ill-temper.
He will control his feelings, if only to save
his bread-and-butter interests.

"Keep cool!" is his constant admoni-
tion to himself. "You will gain nothing and
may lose a great deal by flying into a pas-
sion. Why do it?"

The foolish man, on the opposite, will
let his feelings govern him year after year.
He may even feel proud of his hair-trigger
readiness to react wrathfully to whatever
displeases him.

"Nobody can bull doze me," he boasts.
"Nobody can tread on my toes and get
away with it. I'll show 'em what's what."

He does show them all too plainly.
And though he thereby hurts himself far
more than he does those who give him of-
fence, he continues through life an ill-natur-
ed boor simply because he is too foolish to
inquire into the cause of the painful con-
sequences his incessant irritability brings
upon him.

The wise, however prone to make mis-
takes, learn the lessons they teach. The
foolish never learn, yet they wonder why
they flounder all their days in the mor-
asses of adversity.

WIDE RANGE OF CURTAINS FOR
SPRING

(Continued from page 174)

Spring delivery, made up in the simplest
manner, with two inch ruffled edges in
i both plain and figured nets. These styles
are to be commended for their high
quality of workmanship and it is to be
hoped that the trade will give them the
prominence they deserve since nothing
more charming can be selected for the
bedroom, nursery or living room for
any style of window. These are sup-
plied in either 36 or 29 inch lengths.
How To Care For Fine Curtains

A leading Montreal manufacturer is
issuing instructions with each pair of
curtains sold regarding the proper meth-
od of hanging and laundering new cur-
tains. These are valuable and should
be impressed on the customer by the
sales clerk, verbally, even though they
may be attached to the goods purchased.
Newly Bought Curtains

When you have them new, be sure to
observe the following instructions: —

Find the length required from pole to
bottom of window, match each pair of
curtains, from the bottom, turn in at top
so that each curtain is of equal length.
This is important, for these curtains
sometimes differ a little in length, as
they are assembled by hand. It is not
(Continued on page 199)

DRY GOODS REVIEW

199

General News of the Trade

A steadily increasing volume of busi-
ness has compelled the Northern Tex-
tiles Company, Limited, who are oper-
ating a woolen mill in Chesley, Ont. to
arrange to take over the old woolen mill
in Wiarton, Ont. When sufficient stock
has been subscribed to warrant the ex-
penditure, the factory will be equipped
to be operated as a scouring plant and
distributing centre.

To direct their course during 1922,
the most important year in their history,
the Kiwanis Club of Toronto, have
made John O'Connor, of the Murray-Kav
Contpany, their president.

The Schuler Button Company have
located at Brantford, Ont. They will
maufacture pearl buttons and pearl nov-
elties. J. W. Schuler, the manager has
had many years experience in this line
in Attleboro, Mass. He has associated
with him as directors: Messrs. F. W.
Frank, George A. Ward, R. M. Wedlake
and A. M. Harley. The buttons to be
manufactured by this tirm will be from
special selections of South Sea pearls.

C. E. Chappie, merchant and alderman
of Fort Wil.iam, Ont., has been elected
president of the Fort William-Port Ar-
thur Kiwanis Club.

On December 19, the death occurred
at Dawson City, of Thomas P. Conlin,
a pioneer meixhant of the Yukon.

Mis. J. E. Johnston, wife of J. E.
Johnston, a general merchant of Sun-
derland, Ont. died at her home recently.
She was an active worker in social
and church circles and her death is a
great loss to the community.

Edson T. Burke entered the dry goods
field in Springfield, N. S. some months
ago. He is meeting with particular suc-
cess in his competition with the mail-
order business. His advertising aims
to show the public that he can give
better satisfaction at lower prices, than
they can receive by mail-order.

Frank H. Pingree, formerly vice-
president of the International Fur Ex-
change, has been made general manager
of the Candian Fur Auction Sales Co.

One of the oldest of Canada's com-
mercial travellers, both in years of ser-
vice and in age died on December 24, in
the person of William Croft. He was on
the road for the general merchandising
house of William Croft & Son for 25
years.

D. McMurtrie, Empire Bldg., Ham-
ilton, and J. F. Green, Grigg House,
London, have been appointed local rep-
resentatives of the lirm of Hodgson,
Sumner and Company of Montreal and
will in future, represent the firm in
these cities.

The Cosmos Milling Company have
a life insurance system for their em-
ployees, whereby the life of everyone
of their employees is insured for $1,000.
During the past year the company have
also put in a health insurance, half of
the premium for which is paid by the
employee, the firm holding ten cents
from his or her weekly wage. Tha
other half is paid by the company.
This policy allows a benefit of ten dol-
lars a week, after the first week's ill-
ness, for a period of twenty-six weeks.

Cables from Ireland assert that prices
on Russian flax are still too high but
that holders seem more willing to con-
sider offers. Irish flax is reported as
being fairly liberal and in most cases,
of good quality.

The employees of the Harvey Knit-
ting Co., Woodstock, held their annual
Christmas entertainment on Friday,
December 23. The guests of the even-
ing were the families of the members
of the mill.

A million dollar's worth of fox furs
were grown and sold in Prince Edward
Island this year. This is the largest
in the history of the island.

Alex. Nelson, furrier of Montreal cel-
ebrated the golden anniversary of
the opening of his store. Hisi first
business was in a tiny store on St.
Catherine St. for which he paid the
large ( ? ) rent of five dollars a month.

A. H. Appleton has taken over the
Royal Bank Bldg. in Gait and will use
it for women's ready-to-wear after
making considerable alterations.

The Canadian Fur Auction Company
will hold its next sale in Montreal on
February 13. It is now receiving mer-
chandise in preparation for the biggest
sale that city has yet had.

John W. Peck & Co., of Montreal will
in future carry a comp'ete line of s^ock
in their Vancouver warehouse. J. A.
Frith will be in charge of Pacific coast
buyers of clothing, shirts and caps.

CANADIAN HONORED

R. S. Coltart, vice-president of the
Canadian Fur Auction Sales Company,
has . been made a Companion of the
Order of Areslov-Ed-Islaims (Guardian
of the prophet). The Shah of Persia
has conferred this honor on him for
his assistance in ridding the Persian
kingdom of "many wild beasts that in
their time spread terror and cause
havoc in the domains of the Shah, the
Supreme Master and Ruler of the Uni-
verse." As the only skins of Persian
origin marketed in Canada are Persian
lambs, this allusion to bea ts of terror
is not understood by the recipient of
the high honor.

An interesting development in the chemi-
cal world which is of particular interest to
the textile trade, is the perfection of a chemi-
cal process, which is claimed to render wool
immune, to the attack of moths, without
affecting its valuable properties in any way.
Eulan F. is the name of the product which
does this and it has been discovered by a
German firm. The producers claim that
the application of Eulan is extremely simple.
The wool is saturated or immersed in a cold,
aqueous solution of the product and after-
wards rinsed. It is claimed that it will now
be possible to overcome the moth plague
within a few years, at a very small cost.

WIDE RANGE OF CURTAINS FOR
SPRING

(Continued from page 198)
advisable to cut off any surplus length;
turn in by making a double or treble
heading, then if they shrink when laun-
dered, let out to the required length.

How To Launder Them

Take down and shake well to remove
dust; dip in warm soapy water in which
you have dissolved a good quality of
soap. Saturate well, then squeeze out
water (do not wring or twist) with the
hands. Repeat until clean. Now rinse
in clear water a number of times. Hang
on dryer or line. When almost dry
(but still damp) iron them as follows: —
Pin a sheet or flannelette blanket on the
floor or large table. Pin down curtain,
across bottom first, then up along front
side, making it square with the bottom,
next pin along rear side and do the top
last. Iron the front and bottom first,
then run the iron lightly over the body
of the curtain. When finished measure
and hang as per instructions for new
curtains. If done properly your curtains
will hang perfectly straight and look
like new. Do not boil them. Do not
use a wringer, washboard or curtain
stretcher. A very thin starch solution
may be used if desired on scrim and
voile, but not on marquisette curtains.

200

DRY GOODS REVIEW

The McEIroy Mfg. Co., Ltd.

MAKING

FAMOUS FOR THEIR
Fit, Cut, Style,

Hang and Finish
HEAD OFFICE:
47 Simcoe St. - Toronto

BRAND

(REG.)

"DRESS FABRICS"

F. A. RODDEN & CO.

Dry Goods

Commissioners and Importers

52 Victoria Square MONTREAL

Brantford Felt
Novelty Co.

Brantford, - Canada

Manufacturers of

High Grade Pennants, Cushion Tops,

Felt Emblems, Paper Hats, Advertising

Novelties.

ORDER NOW OUR WOOL FELT

TAMS

SPORTS, io SHADES

7.50 PER DOZ.

1914 VALUE AND A BIG SELLER

THE TRAINOR MFG. CO.

Specialists in Stamped and Made-up
Ladies' Undergarments, Infants' & Children's Dresse*
49-53 East 21st Street New York City

STAMPED GOWN SPECIALS
No. 900 — Nainsook Gown. Made up in

three designs, a doz $6.50

64-60 count, full length, full width, two-
inch hem Sizes 15, 16, 17, 18.
SPECIALS IN INFANTS' AND BABY

DRESSES MADE UP
No. 145-146-147— Short Baby Dress, a

doz $5.50— Gross $60.00

No. 0145-0146-0147— Long Infants Dress,
a doz $6.00 — Gross . . . $66.00

Stamped Three Designs. Three Shaped

Yokes. SeUin Sleeves.

Terms 3% 10 Days

Canadian Linoleums &

Oilcloths, Limited

Cornwall, Ont.

SPRING, 1922

New range of patterns

now ready for delivery.

Send for small sample
book and price list.

SPRING

MILLINERY!

We carry complete lines of

MILLINERY ACCESSORIES
HATS, NOVELTIES,
FANCY FEATHERS

and ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS.

Careful attention given to mail
orders. Samples gladly sub-
mitted on request.

JOS. LEONE & CO.

LIMITED
Wholesale Milliners

17 St. Helen St. - Montreal

Agents wanted calling on Mantle and
Costume Manufacturers, also Tailors
Trimming Houses, and Wholesale Cloth-
iers, to sell the "Gem" and "Empire"
Button Covering Machines, and all grades
of Buttons. Specially first grade Erinoid
and Ivory Buttons.
Apply
SANDS & GRAHAM, LTD.,
48 Miller Street.

Glasgow.

TV/fANUFACTURERS' AGENCY WANTS
up-to-date and rightly priced lines for
Pacific Coast territory- Dresses. Hosiery,
Gloves, Corsetsi Neckwear. Novelties,

Leather hags. At once. Address manufac-
turers' Agency, 501 Carter-Cotton Bldlg.,
Vancouver.

There are some terms used in
the hosiery trade, with which
salespeople are often not as fam-
iliar as they should be. The fol-
lowing are a few of the more im-
portant:

Seamless stockings are knitted
in tubular form, instead of being
made up in the piece and then
sewn together. They are shaped
in the knitting then stretched and
pressed.

GIMP your PATTERNS

With Hardaker's

"EASICUT"

MACHINES

It makes them more attractive.
Economical, Fast, Practical, Neat.

E. W. McMARTIN

45 St. Alexander St. MONTREAL

Washable Clothing

AND SPECIALTIES

WHITE DUCK COATS in All Styles
SUMMER CLOTHING LUSTRE COATS

WAREHOUSE and AUTO DUSTERS

DUCK AND FLANNEL PANTS

MEN'S APRONS

OFFICIAL BOY SCOUT UNIFORMS AND
COMPLETE OUTFITS

MILITIA AND CADET UNIFORMS
BREECHES AND MILITARY SUPPLIES

The Miller Mfg. Co., Limited

44-4S York Street. • TORONTO

The Oldest and Largest Specialty

Clothing House in Canada.

Complete Lines at Keen Values in

Underwear

Shirts

Ties

Gloves

Hosiery

Miller Men's Wear Limited

Miller BId c .

44-48 York St., - TORONTO

44 Everything in Mmn'a Furniahinga"

The French have followed the
lead of New York in adopting the
knickerbocker styles. They, of
course, do not adhere to the tailor-
ed types but adopt their own in-
terpretation of breeks. One Paris
model has an apology for a skirt
reaching to the knee and under it
red and green puttees. Another
carries out the knicker idea in
black velvet, the whole suit from
chin to knee being of this mater-
ial. A cape falling away from
the shoulders, gives the French
touch to the costume.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

201

TAPES

ALL WIDTHS AND QUALITIES
CARRIED IN STOCK

Walter Williams & Co.

508 READ BLDG., MONTREAL
' WELLINGTON ST. V/., TORONTO

GERSTENZANG BROS.

Popular Priced
Flowers and Feathers

670-674 Broadway, NEW YORK CITY

"HOOSIER"

The but 36-inch brown
domestic in America

Buy it by the bale;
tell it by the bolt

Indiana Cotton Mills

Can nel ton, I nd.,U.S. A .

T. H. Birmingham & Co,

LIMITED
533 College St., TORONTO

Makers of

Women's High Grade
Neckwear
'The Exclusive Neckwear House"

B LAN K E T S

PRIESTLEY BROTHERS

Blanket Manufacturers
GROVE MILLS HALIFAX

Telegrama and Cables, "Blankets" Halifax
Codes, A.B.C. 5th, and Bentley's

LARGEST MANUFACTURERS

Artificial Flowers, Plants and Vines,
Window Decorations, Japanese and
Chinese Decorations, Papier Mache
Novelties, Electric Lighted Flower
Bushes. Write for our Catalogue. It's
free for the asking.

The Botanical Decorating Company

(Incorporated)
39 Adelaide St. W. - TORONTO

STERLING DRESS CO.

Popular-Priced Ladies' and Misses'

DRESSES and SKIRTS
220 KING ST. WEST - TORONTO

ADELAIDE 3857

sSM/ILLW/IRES

AND

Hosiery

The Robert Hyslop Co L'^hip

HAMILTON. ONTARIO

HABERDASHERY

Every description of Haberdashery and

Smallwares for Drapery, Dressmaking.

Millinery, Fancy Needlework, Outfitting

and Tailoring Trades.

FREDERICK NEWTON & CO.

8&9Hamsell Street, London, E.C I.

Established 1871

Ih<

Ra y

Band

SANITARY NAPKINS

Conveniently and attractively packed; half
dozen and dozen cartons; individual transparent
envelopes; and compressed in individual boxes.

Write for interesting prices.
HYGIENIC FIBRE COMPANY
200 Broadway New Yorli City

Red Seal Zephyr Ginghams

Everett CI a s s i cs
Eden Cloth-Pec^y Cloth-Blankets

Sl AfeC

/1 15 Worth St., NY

\ 775ummcr SI.. Boston

226 West Adam Stftkajo

RIBBONS OF DISTINCTION

"J-C" Ribbons have peculiar
charm. Widely advertised to
the consumer under their
trade-mark names for the
protection of the dealer.
"SATIN DE LUXE"
"TROUSSEAU"
"LADY FAIR"
"SANKANAC" "VIOLET"
"DEMOCRACY-
JOHNSON, COWiDIN & OO., 40 E. 90th St,
New York. N.Y. Made In U.S.A.

WILL P. WHITE, LIMITED

Head Office :
Toronto

65 Simcoe St.

Montreal
137 McGill Street

Manufacturers' Agents and Distributors

Textile and Smallwares Specialities.

Wholesale and Manufacturers Only Supplied.

MESH BAGS

In Silver, Gun Metal and Green
Gold Finish, Metal Frames for
Ladies' Hand Bags.
Made in Canada for the Canadian Trade

WHITING & DAVIS CO.
SHERBROOKE, QUE.

D B. Rsk&Co.

Chicago

New York Salesroom :

Open Throughout the Year

411 Fifth Avenue

VEILINGS and
SILK N ETS

HODGES & LETTAU

232 McGill St. Montreal

COMFORTERS

COTTON— DOWN- WOOL
FILLED

The Toronto Feather & Down Co. Ltd.

2154-56-58 Dundas St. W. Toronto

CLIMAX PAPER
BALERS

ALL STEEL-FIREPROOF
"Turn* Watte

into Profit"
12 SIZES
Send for Catalog

CLIMAX BALER CO.

Hamilton, Ont.

Canada's

Largest Makers of

Cotton Flags

Write for Price*

THECOPP, CLARK CO.,

517 Wellington St. We»t Toronto

SILKS

1 represent In this country some of the
most reliable Manufacturers of Hlgh-
Grade SLLKS. in plain, fancy weaves.

Quality and Novelty Is my motto.

J. H. GAGNON

108 Dandurand BIdg. Montreal

J. F. Carnall & Co., England

HOSIERY MANUFACTURERS

Men's, Women's & Children's

Heather Hose
Complete Stock Carried in Toronto by

A. M. Duncan

39 Adelaide St. W.. - TORONTO

Fred Jones & Company

Manufacture? i and Importers

Babies' Hand Crochet Goodi Notions

Babies' Hand Knit Goods Novelties

Art Needlework Materials

Room 712 Empire Building

6 WELLINGTON ST. WEST, TORONTO

Fraser's Women's Wear Directory, pocket sizt,
issued each July,

Fraser's Men's Wear Directory, pocket size. Is-
sued each September, and

Fraser's Textile Products Directory, each Janu-
ary, a combination of the above two books.
Subscription In Canada $2.00 a year. Sample
copy on request.

Fraser Publishing Company

H. O. 128 Bleury Street, Montreal
Br. Office, 122 Wellington W., Toronto.

202

DRY GOODS REVIEW

INDEX TO ADVERTISERS

Acme Glove Works, Ltd 138

Adams-Barret Co 11

Albion Knitting Co., Ltd 131

Allen Bros. & Allen Silk Mills 6

American Waist & Dress Co 192-193

Anderson & Thomson 40

Atlantic Underwear, Ltd 118

Ballantyne, R. M., & Co 120-121

Balthasar, 0., & Co 38

Baker, Richard L., & Co 17-18-19-20

Barry, Walter, Co 137

Bastard, J. & W 44

Bates & Innes 131

Belding Corticelli, Ltd Back Cover

Beard, Kirby & Co 45

Birmingham, T. H., Co, Ltd 201

Botanical Decorating Co 201

Bradford Dyers' Association, Ltd... 33

Brantford Felt Novelty Co 200

British Industries Fair 37

Brock Co., W. R. (Montreal) 50-51

Brock Co., W. R. (Toronto). .52-53-54-55

Brown, Jackson & Co 37

Burritt, A., Co 118-119

Button Sales, Ltd 153

Butterfield, Fred., & Co., Inc 98-99

Bvard Mfg. Co 30

Campbell, Metzger & Jacobson. . . . 107
Canadian Linoleums & Oilcloths

Limited 200

Canadian Lady House Dress Co.... 196

Canada Costume Co 195

Canadian Perfect Garment 197

Canada Veiling Co 10

Carnall, J. F., & Co 201

Carr, James, & Sons, Ltd 48

Chatillon, Mouly, Rousell & Cie 182

Celtic Knitting Co., Limited 124

Chananie, J 139

Clatworthy & Sons, Limited 168

Climax Baler Co 201

Chipman Holton Knitting Co 129

Circle Bar Knitting Co 130

Colonial Fastener Co 156

Consolidated Lithographing & Mfg.

Co. Limited Inside Front Cover

Counter Costume Company 195

Congoleum Co. of Canada Limited

Inside Back Cover

Copp Clark Company 201

Craf tana 40

Daly & Morin, Limited 178-179-180

Dale Wax Figure Company 170

Davis Henry & Company 131

Dent, Allcroft & Co. (Can.) 140

Delfosse & Company 171

Dobson & M. Brown Co. Ltd 38

Dominion Oilcloth & Linoleum Co. 177

Dods Knitting Co 126

Dominion Textile Co 95

Dominion Ostrich Feather Co 150

Dominion Wadding Co 25

Emmett, E. G., & Company 48

English Velvet & Cord Dyers' Asso-
ciation 35

European Novelty Company 107

Fisk & Company 107-201

Forsyth-Kemmel Ltd 159

Fraser Publishing 141-201

French Ivory Products Limited.... 151
Freeman-Huckvale 195

Garland Son & Co., John M 3

Gagnon, J. H 201

Gardner, M., Co., Ltd 196

Gait Knitting Co., Ltd 132

Gibson, W. M. & Son Limited 34

Gertenzang Bros 201

Gillett & Ewer 42

Gipe-Hazard Store Service 182

Goderich Knitting Co 130

Greenshields, Ltd 1-96-97

Goode Albert Bedin & Cie 109

Goulding G. & Co 106

H -

Hargrave Dress Co 194

Hawley A. E. & Co. Ltd 56

Haugh Mfg. Co. Limited, J. A 183

Hawthorn Mills Limited 123

Henderson, J. B., & Co 182

Heron & Taylor 11

Hollin & Co., Ltd., Wm 25

Hodges & Lettau 201

Hollins Mills Co. Limited 36

Hodgson Sumners & Co., Ltd 22-23

Horrockses Crewsden Limited 32

Hoyle, Joseph & Son 41

Hyslop Co., Robert 201

Hygienic Fibric Company 201

Infants' Footwear Company 38

Indiana Cotton Mills 201

International Textile Exhibition. . . 39

Irish Linen Society 12-13

Inland Spinning Company 40

Jaeger Co. Limited 127

Jamieson, Alex. & Co Front Cover

Jauffred & Gariel 34

Jennens, Welsh & Co., Ltd 38

Johnston, Crowdin & Co 201

Jones & Company, Fred 201

Jones Bros. & Company Limited. . . 169

Kelly, T. K. Sales System 87

Kent-McClain Limited 7-165-189

Kenrood Mills, Ltd 125

King Silk Co., A. S. Ltd 2

King & Co., John 32

Lace Goods Company ' 181

Ladies' Wear Limited 190-191

Lamson Company 166-167

Lazare & Novek 194

Leone & Company 200

Levine & Share

Lingerie Company 94

Macdonald, John & Company 5

Martin & Co., P. P. Limited 24

McElroy Mfg. Company 200

McMartin & Co., E. W 200

Miller Mfg. Company 200

Milers Men's Wear, Limited 200

Mitchell Woollen Co 124

Morton & Co., Robert 32

Monarch Knitting Co 128

Morton Sundour, Ltd 4

Moyer, A. W . & Co 130

Moulton Mfg. Co. Limited 153

Mouterde, Chas 108

Muser Bros. (Canada) Limited.... 21

Newton, Frederick & Co 201

Old Bleach Linen Co 16

Palmenbergs Sons Inc 159

Pawsons & Leaf, Limited 47

Phillips, R. A 149

Peerless Underwear Co. Limited... 124

Potter Thos. & Son 34 "

Priestley Bros 201

Prime & Rankin, Limited 176

Pugh Specialty Company 149

Racine Alphonse Limited 86

Regent Cloak Company 197

Riches, Marcus 40

Rigg Bros. Limited 43

Ritchie, H. P. & Company 14-15

Robertson, C. & J 48

Ritchie, John E . & Company 197

Rodden, F. A., & Company 200

Roberston, J. M. Knitting Co 127

Sands & Graham Limited 200

Sales, Julian, Leather Goods Co.... 147

Silks Limited 94

Scott, Peter & Company Limited. . . 31

Smith, Hogg Company 201

Starr, C. H 107

Sterling Dress Company 201

Stoffell & Company 11

Studd & Millington 46

Thomson Knitting Co 122

Tod, H. G. Company 11

Toronto Feather & Down Co 201

Turnbull, C. Co. Ltd 133

Trainer Mfg. Co 200

Vassie & Co., Limited 197

Viegelmann, Robert 201

Visor Knitting Co. Ltd 122

Walker Bin & Store Fixture Co 171

Wayagamack Pure Kraft 8-9

Wabasso Cotton Co 85

Watson, John 48

Warner Bros 146

Western Leather Goods Co 152

Westlake Bros., Ltd 139

Whiting & Davis 201

White, Will P. Limited 158-201

Williams, Walter, & Co., Ltd 46-201

Wilson & Company 46

Wilson, Knowles & Co 49

Winnett & Wilinger, Ltd 150

Wright Sons, Wm. E., Co 153

Wrinch McLaren Company 157

DRY GOODS REVIEW

On every genuine Gold
Seal Congoleum Rug, on

every two yards of Gold
Seal Congoleum by-the-
yard you find this famous
Gold Seal. Give this seal
prominent display — tell
customers what it means
— such a guarantee is
bound to build confidence
in your goods and your
store.

"What an attractive
rug for the mon"" '

Heavy Sales On

Congoleum

This Spring

We're reaching the time of year when women size
up their homes — house-cleaning reveals the worn-
out furnishings, the threadbare and shabby spots.

That puts them in a buying mood — and Congoleum
dealers will benefit. For there's nothing like new
floor-covering to improve a room. And G-old Seal
Congoleum does that job at a cost so moderate as to
be within the range of the humblest purse. The
universal demand for economy makes it a logical
big seller.

Through 1022 vigorous, sustained advertising will
run in the leading Canadian magazines, farm papers
and newspapers. The advertisements will show the
attractiveness of Gold Seal Congoleum patterns — will
tell of Congoleum's economy and durability. With
the new prices in effect Congoleum sales are certain
to be bigger than ever.

Fill out your Gold Seal Congoleum stock — display
the Gold Seal signs and window-cards. Then watch
your sales jump.

CONGOLEUM COMPANY
OF CANADA, Limited

Factory and Offices:
1270 St. Patrick St., Montreal

Made in Canada — By Canadians

By-the -Yard Goods To

Widen Congoleum

Sales Opportunities

We have just introduced new 8/4 by-the-
yard goods — a sure seller.

Canadian housewives are strong for Gold
Seal Congoleum Art-Rugs — they've shown
such a preference for their easy-cleaning
qualities, their durability and economy that
we know a big market awaits the by-the-
yard goods.

There are many places in the home where
rugs are not suitable — odd-shaped rooms,
rooms with bad, unfinished floors need an
all-over floor-covering. Congoleum by-the-
yard meets this need.

Add these goods to your Congoleum stock.
They'll widen your sales-and-profit oppor-
tunities.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

iioiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiyjiii^^iiiiiiiiiiiipiiiiiis

7 %a

Toronto Montreal Vancouver Winnipeg

EVIEW

Vol. XXXIV. No. 2

THE MACLEAN PUBLISHING COMPANY, LIMITED

PUBLICATION OFFICE: TORONTO, CANADA

FEBRUARY, 1922

■mm

"A DOMINION-WIDE SYSTEM OF DEPENDABLE SERVICE TO
THE DRY GOODS TRADE."

THREE DISTRIBUTING WAREHOUSES

having complete assortments of

General Dry Goods, Woollens, Carpets, Hosiery, Underwear,
Gloves, Notions, Smallwares, Men's Furnishings,

"Her Ladyship" Brand Ready-to- Wear Garments, &c.

and

Nine Sample Rooms

Located in the following important centres:

Halifax, N. S. Sydney, C.B. Quebec, P.Q. Ottawa, Ont.
Hamilton, Ont. London, Ont. Winnipeg, Man.
Edmonton, Alta. Vancouver, B.C.

TRAVELLING SALES FORCE OF SIXTY:-

Constantly calling on the trade in their respective territories.

iv C IxG^w

) ^^mm y

TORONTO - MONTREAL - CALGARY

See Pages 27 29

fell

DRY GOODS REVIEW

The Priceless

Value of Your

" Store- Appeal"

llllllllllllllllllllllllllll I III Ml III I Mill Illlllll | Illlllllllllllllimilllllll

The general attractiveness and selling
appeal of your store as a whole, will
determine your volume of spontaneous
sales — the articles people leave your store
with that they had no intention of buying
on entering. Strive to have your store
make buying an irresistible pleasure, as
well as a necessity, and you will reap re-
turns in far greater abundance than ever
before.

Antiquated fixtures and obsolete show-
cases that outgrew their real usefulness
many years ago, are clouds that obscure
the real worth of your store, handicap
your salespeople, and keep sales at the
minimum.

Kent-McClain. Show-cases and Store-equip-
ment make every possible use of your store's
"display possibilities," enhance the quality of
your offerings; assist, not impede your sales-
people; and increase sales volume and profit
to the maximum.

IIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIMIMIIIIMIMIIIIIIMIIIMIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII 1)1111111)

"INTER-PLACE-ABLE UNITS"

Begin the creation of a better store
with one or more "Inter-place-able
Units" which permit you to build as
your business grows. Write for the cata-
logue especially prepared for Dry Goods
Stores. It will enlighten you on your
store's possibilities.

feft-fQaii

(JorontoSnowCaseCo) XUURQ.

183 CARLAW AVE., TORONTO - OFF QUEEN ST. E.

" INTER-PLACE-ABLE " UNITS.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

GREENSHIELDS LIMITED

rogress

is assured to the Retail Dry Goods Merchants who utilize to
the fullest extent all the advantages offered by our efficient
organization, comprising eighteen different departments, each one a Spec-
ialty House in itself.

Progress as the outcome of sound merchandising is the spirit of our bus-
iness, the spirit we impart to our many thousands of customers, backed
by the benefit of our immense buying powers. Every department in this
great organization is fully equipped to care for the merchants throughout
Canada ; stocks in any line contain an extensive variety of desirable mer-
chandise, thoroughly representative of the requirements of style and the
needs of the people, and assuring

BETTER VALUES

EXCELLENT SER VICE

GREENSHIELDS LIMITED

"The Hub of the Dry Goods Trade in Canada"

Victoria Square - - Montreal

SALES ROOMS FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC

DRY GOODS REVIEW

. / « IIIIIMIMIMIIMIIMIIMIMIIMIIMIMMMIMIIMIiniMIIIMIM

Silks

from

Chi

n d

Japan

Shipment
At Once

A CHINESE SILK MART

Zurich, Switzerland
Lyons, France

Summer Wash Silks

In Great Variety

Habutai, Satins, Jerseys,

Pongees, Shantungs.

Taffeta, Duchesse, Paillette,

Georgette, Canton, Crepe de Chine.

VISIT OUR WAREHOUSE

& &. i^mg ^tlfc Company

TLimittb

"ftfje gulfe $ou*e of Canaba"

59-61 Wellington St. West, Toronto

Foreign Offices:

Yokohama, Japan
Chefoo, China

III II I II Ml IN I II I ! MIIMIMI MUM I | 1 1 III I M I II I M M I J 1 1 11 1111 IIIMMIIM M M III I II I III I M 1 1 1 II I III Ml 1 1 M I M I M 1 1 HT'I I III Ml 1 1 Ml II I Mil I MM I III Ml 1 1 II

^^^^iffi.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

^X~~3£

Smallwares, Trimmings and Ribbons
•for your Spring Trade

You should have your stock of these "Dress-mak-
ers' Accessories" gone through carefully and put in-
to good shape for the big Spring Business which is
commencing now.

Two of our nine departments give exclusive atten-
tion to Smallwares, Trimmings and Ribbons and
each of our travellers has a complete range of
samples.

Anytime you spend with our representative going
through his Smallware Sample Book will repay you
well in two ways: New Ideas which come out reg-
ularly and a stock of up-to-date Smallwares at a price
that will enable you to profitably take care of your
every customer.

8tes

John M. Garland, Son
& Co., Ltd.

Ottawa - Canada
Wholesale Dry Goods

DRY GOODS REVIEW

For Curtains and Furniture
Coverings of enduring beauty

SUNDOUR

UNFADABLE

FABRICS

The Colours of these beau-
tiful Fabrics are guaranteed
absolutely fast against sun
or wash and the Fabrics are
made in Casement Cloths,
Reps, Damasks, Chenilles,
Madras Muslins, Tapestries,
etc.

MORTON SUNDOUR FABRICS LTD.

CARLISLE, ENGLAND

89 Newgate Street - London, E.C.

Canadian Representative :*G. I. KITCHEN, 72 Bay Street, Toronto

DRY GOODS REVIEW

ff^ IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII ^\

WAYAGAMACK

PURE

GLAZED

KRAFT

UNGLAZED

FINESTRIPE - PLAIN - BROADSTRIPE
is unrivalled for strength

As a wrapping paper it has no equal and its attractive appearance
is a standing advertisement for the merchant who uses it.

Bags of all kinds made from

Wayagamack Pure Kraft

are fifty per cent, stronger than those produced from inferior
grades of paper.

Envelopes

manufactured from this paper protect their contents from loss and
damage in transit through the mails as efficiently as those made
from more expensive papers and at one eighth of the cost.

These claims are not exaggerations but plain statements of fact.

Ask your wholesaler to prove their truth by giving you a practical
demonstration which will convince the most sceptical that

Wayagamack Pure Kraft

means

Strength and Security

llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllffl

DRY GOODS REVIEW

1 PURE THREAD

SILK HOSIERY

s. MADE IN CANADA

Hosiery Novelties

These new lines in Winsome Maid Hosiery are
quickly winning favor.

Number 350

Beautiful two-ton* effect in silk and wool, con-
trastingly clocked.

Number 500

Double fabric, silk hosiery — the first line to
meet the needs of women desiring additional
warmth with the same pure silk weave for
winter wear, (iives comfort of cotton, warmth
of wool and heauty of glove silk.

Allen Silk Mills Limited

43 Davies Ave., Toronto

The Finest Trade buys "Winsome Maid'

i*-

A. B. C. Hosiery

fills every requirement for cashmere or silk
and wool mixtures, for men, women and
children.

Order from these lines

For Children

Beautiful pure thread silk,
1 and 1 rib.

Silk and wool, 1 and 1 rib,
Cashmere in heather mix-
ture, three-quarter length
sock with roll top.
Cashmere — plain weaves
and new shades in heather.

For Men and Women

Silk and wool mixtures,
many combinations of
colors.

Cashmere, plain weaves
and new shades in hea-
ther.

All seamless with re-inforced heels and toes.

Allen Bros. Co., Limited

883 Dundas St. E., Toronto

A. B. C. is a Hose Guarantee.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

This is one of the series of striking
illustrations appearing in Hoover
national advertising. Over six
hundred thousand of Hoover
full pages are circulated monthly
through leading magazines

Become an "Authorized Hoover

Dealer" in 1922!

Convenient

Improved Handle Control

Exclusively Hoover—

UNTIL the new "tilting bar" was
brought out by The Hoover no
satisfactory means of handle
control on an electric cleaner existed.
Now complete control of the ma-
chine is assured without stooping or
stretching, without tightening bolts
or screws. The user of The Hoover
may easily tilt it backward or for-
ward in order to pass any obstruc-
tion—may leave the machine to
answer doorbell or telephone and re-
turn to find the handle held in a
convenient operating position — may
lower the handle for use under low
furniture or lock it in an Upright
position for storage. All this is done
quickly and easily by a slight move-
ment of the foot. Protected by pat-
ents granted May 1, 1917. February
IS. 1921. and pending. A total of 18
valuable patents are now the exclu-
sive property of The Hoover Suction
Sweeper Company of Canada, Limited.
Still others pending.

This year every Hoover Dealer is to
enjoy, more than ever, an enviable
position among all dealers in household
appliances.

Each dealer will be granted the Author-
ized Hoover Dealer's License, which
publicly places the endorsement, con-
fidence and moral backing of The
Hoover Suction Sweeper Company of
Canada, Limited, behind the store that
secures an Authorized Hoover Dealer-
ship. Inquiries received as a result of
our large national advertising cam-
paign will naturally be referred only
to such dealers.

Furthermore, the company will enter
into a contract with each dealer which
will be to his benefit.
The sale of Hoovers is to be limited to
those dealers who are thus licensed to
demonstrate, sell and service Hoovers.
The license, framed and displayed in

each store, informs the public that the
dealer has been chosen to represent
Hoover interests in his locality.

An "Authorized Dealer " window trans-
fer is also furnished. It states that the
dealer is licensed "to sell and service
Hoovers bearing the factory guaran-
tee."

Any Hoover purchased from other
than an Authorized Dealer will carry
no factory guarantee. Every legiti-
mate effort will be made to protect
licensed dealers.

The confidence of the buying public in
the Authorized Hoover Dealer will be
thus forcibly strengthened through
this official authority granted by the
factory.

Become an "Authorized Hoover Deal-
er" in 1922! The franchise will prove
an asset of ever-growing value to you.

The Hoover Suction Sweeper Company of Canada, Limited

Factory and General Offices: Hamilton, Ontario

Qfc HOOVER

It Beats ... as it Sweeps as it Cleans

MADE IN CANADA-BY CANA D I ANS- FOR CANADIANS

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Made

Four

Sizes

000

»»»»»»»»O»O»»0»»»»»»»^»»»»»»»»»»»»»<>O»»»»»»»

COLONIAL- MAID

<■

•i

♦

♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦»♦♦♦»♦♦»»♦ ^♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦^♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦»

I WILL
|| NOT

| RUST

DRESS

MADE

It's all in
the Spring

FASTENER

CANADA

Strong —
Durable
Made of
Brass

It's a Snap to Snap This Snapper

Colonial Maid

Wire Spring Dress Fasteners

Made in
Canada

CH I S IS NOT A
FRICTION FASTENER
D llf ' MADE
DUt IS WITH

HIGHLY TEMPERED

WIRE SPRING

KNOWS WHEN TO HOLD
AND WHEN TO LET GO

BRASS
will

not

rust

ALSO PUT UP IN ONE GREAT GROSS
CABINETS ASSORTED 24 CARDS EACH
WHITE AND BLACK .\ .-. SIZES: 00-0-1

To be had of all leading wholesalers.

Manufactured by

Colonial Fastener Co., Limited

Montreal, Que.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

T gsaeaeg&^sMiszsE ag yfflyffl^^

The mark

of selling value

LACES

EMBROIDERIES

RIBBONS

HOSIERY

DRESS TRIMMINGS

GEORGETTES

WASH GOODS

HANDKERCHIEFS

BRASSIERES

CHIFFONS

Complete
Assortments of

All Lines are in Stock

at our

Warehouse for

Immediate

Delivery

Travellers are now showing our Complete Range

fflu&tv Jfrotfjets; (Canada) Xtmiteb

Manufacturers and Importers of Laces,

Dress Trimmings and Embroideries.

Importers of Fancy Dry Goods

12 ST. HELEN STREET, MONTREAL

New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, Baltimore, Los Angeles, San Francisco,
London, Nottingham, Paris, Calais, Caudry, Le Puy, St. Gall

=3 ■ __ „

DRY GOODS REVIEW

OUR "HOUSE
FURNISHINGS DEPARTMENT"
Commands Attention

QUALITY, STYLE and PRICE are the outstanding
features of our House Furnishings. We invite you to
inspect our merchandise and to compare our prices.

See our large assortment of STAIR CARPETS,
SQUARES, RUGS and RUNNERS, also our SCOTCH
REVERSIBLE RUGS, all sizes, with Runners and Rugs
to match.

All orders are shipped the same day as received.
Special attention given to Mail Orders.

// in a hurry call us by
Long Distance

HODGSON SUMNER & CO., LIMITED

83-91 St. Paul St, West

21 St. Sulpice St.

MONTREAL

84-92 LeRoyer St.

SAMPLE ROOMS:
7 Charest St., QUEBEC Windsor Hotel, OTTAWA

Carlaw Bldg., 28-30 Wellington St. West, TORONTO
Can Bank of Commerce Bldg., THREE RIVERS New Sherbrooke House, SHERBROOKE

Empire Bldg., HAMILTON Grigg House, LONDON

503 Mercantile Bldg., VANCOUVER
50 Bon Accord St., MONCTON, N. B.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

STOFFEL & CO., ST. GALL

The Largest Manufacturers of Cotton Fabric in

SWITZERLAND

TRANSPARENT ORGANDIES IN 100 SHADES

DOTTED SWISSES IN 50 SHADES

Batistes Nainsooks Jaconas Fancies

Fine Muslins Voiles Crepes Calicots

"IT IS STOFFEL'S"

---the finest praise that can be bestowed upon an Organdie

STOCK CARRIED IN TORONTO IMMEDIATE DELIVERY

To the Wholesale and Manufacturing Trade only

HERON & TAYLOR

77 York Street,

Toronto
Tel. Adel. 2253

Sole Agents for Canada

235 Coristine Bldg.,

20 St. Nicholas Street,

Montreal, Que.

Tel. Main 6248

Newton & Carpenter

Specializing in
[MISSES' DRESSES

HOMESPUNS

SILKS CREPES

TAFFETAS

Also Children's Dresses

A representative will be pleased to
call and show our line

62 Richmond St., E., Toronto

Tel. Main 1042

3ES3 EHXEm v-*-x * I * * EX333 O * xrvrrYX tj
n For the highest

» QU/7L/TY—

at the
Lowest prices.

See our Extensive Range of

Baseball Uniforms

Girls' Baseball Uniforms

Soccer Jerseys (All Wool)

Soccer Pants

Official Boy Scout Uniforms

All-Wool Bathing Suits

and Swimming Trunks

da full range of White Duck Clothing.

A.W.

MOYER

&co.

124 KING ST. W. TORONTO

y y.y v\\ niL<iinn<nyuYnf rmm m

DRY GOODS REVIEW

OTTAWA

111 Sparks SI

CALGARY

ALBERTA

517 Centre St.

St. HYAOINTHE
QUEBEC

HAI LEY BURY,

ONT.

Matabanick

DO YOU KNOW THE PERSONNEL?

of the 14 Departments of

ALPHONSE RACINE, LIMITED

MONTREAL

LAST MONTH— Mr. J. A. Mitchell, Mgr. Depts. "A" and "Ax" Staple
Cotton Dept. Look up your January Dry Goods Review
again.

THIS MONTH— Mr. J. A. Boucher, Mgr. Dept. "B" Wash Goods Dept.
Look below at his happy countenance. There's a reason.

DEPT. "B"

2 in I and Second to None

Dept. Bl -Staple Wash Goods — Do-
mestic and Import Ginghams,
Prints, Ducks, Steelclads,
Cotton Cashmeres, Repps,
Piques, Drills, Cotton Suit-
ings, Fine Shirtings, Fancy-
Percales.

TORONTO,

ONT.

72 Bay Street

HAMILTON

ONT.

Lister Chmbrs.

SYDNEY,

C B.

269 Charlotte St.

HALIFAX,

N. S.
119 Roy Bid*.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Our Samples will interest all who

are interested in "the unusually good" in

HANDKERCHIEFS

Produced in Canada. Popular Priced. Wide Range.

Representatives now on their respective territories
with many new novelties for Fall and Christmas.

See our range before placing your order

H. P. RITCHIE & COMPANY

38-42 CLIFFORD STREET

TORONTO

Manufacturers Jtf.eta.11ic Laces, Silk

Lingerie, Embroideries, Handkerchiefs,

7tf.erri-Jtf.aid Dresses for Children

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

Dry Goods Review

"Up to Standard Not Down to Price"

W. Thow Mimro, Chairman of Scottish Woollen Trade Mark
Association Delegation Outlines Objects of Association And
Their American Visit — Visitors Given Complimentary Banquet
by Canadian National Newspapers and Periodicals Association

at King Edward Hotel

WHAT the Scottish Woollen Trade
Mark Association have in view
in sending representatives of
their membership on a tour through
Canada and the United States was told
by their chairman, Thow Munro, of
Munro & Co., Ltd., Edinburgh, at a
complimentary banquet tendered the
delegates at the King Edward Hotel on
January 27th, by the Canadian Nation-
al Newspapers and Periodical.® Associa-
tion. This delegation has been on this
side of the water for several weeks and
at this banquet met representative
members of manufacturing, wholesale
and retail organizations of Toronto. In
the absence of the president of the C.
N.N. & P.A., H.T. Hunter, vice-presi-
dent, occupied the chair. In a few in-
troductory remarks he pointed out that
the objects of the two associations were
the same — ta create a certain standard
to which members must subscribe be-
fore they were eligib e to membership
in the association. He regretted that
their tour in Canada did not take in
many of the smaller and more repre-
sentative sections of the country where
there were towns of three to five thou-
sand people and where the volume of
business done reflected very well the
genera, prosperity of the country as a
whole.

Visit Will Do Good
"I believe your visit to this country
will have some effect," said Mr. Hunter,
"on the men who are handling your
goods. In handling them, they wild
associate your personalities with these
goods that they are handling. I think
it is an advance step in business meth-
ods that you have gone to the trouble
and expense to make a tour of this
country for the sake of protecting the
name you have soi carefully made for
yourselves as manufacturers of wool-
lens."

W. Thow Munro
The chairman of the delegation, W.
Thow Munro, after referring in grate-
ful terms to the hospitality with which
the delegation had been met since ar-
riving on this side of the water, pro-
ceeded to outline the aims and objects
which they had in view in making this
trip to America. The Scotch trade, he
said, was a trade with a great deal of
tradition behind it. They all had a
great pride in that tradition and they
now had a reputation for producing a
very high class and quality of goods.
In their activities, they had stretched
out into the far corners of the earth,
but perhaps they had spent too much
of their time in the manufacturing end
of it and not enough on the men who
actually sell their product. The time

Reading from left to right, front row — Robert S. Hayward, G. W. Gray,

Mrs. Hayward, C. J. Glenny, Gilbert Patterson, Jr., W. Thow Munro,

Robert Sim and Mrs. Sim.

Behind— F. H. Bisset.

Rear — George Rae, Robert Christie, Robert White, A. J. Sanderson, Tom

Ballantyne, W. R. Ovens, Geo. A. Hunter.

— Photo by the "International" — New York.

had come when they realized that this
must now be done.

It was the object of the delegation,
he said, to find out the exact needs of
the Canadian trade and to do so they
believed it was far better for them to
come here than to find out by corres-
pondence. He felt that the visit of
such a delegation would do good. The
Scotch trade for the moment may seem
dark and gloomy and uncertain and it
was difficult to discern the outcome of
the slump that had hit them. But so
far as this trade was concerned, he be-
lieved they had seen the turn of the
road and they were around the corner.
He wou.d not deny that there were dif-
ficult times ahead but felt sure that they
had finally reached a stable basis.
Suffered from Imitation

The Scotch woollen trade, continued
the speaker, has suffered a good deal
from imitations that had been put on

the market. Thousands of yards of ma-
teria s were sold as Scotch tweeds that
were not even made in Scotland. This
association has been formed for the pur-
pose of protecting the good name of
Scottish woollen manufacturers and
while they were net sui? that they
could overcome this evil altogether, be-
lieved that the greater part of it would
be stamped out. "We are not going to
tamper with any quality," said Mr. Mun-
ro. "We are going to keep up our
standards. We have been told that if
we would only make something a little
cheaper we would do better in this coun-
try but I think the English manufactur-
er has made a mistake in working down
to price rather than up to standards.
No sane man can meet the competition
of some of the firms that have made a
sett ement and are throwing goods up-
on the market far below their economic

(Continued on page 34)

Dry Goods Review

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

Delegate Says Conditions Improved

F. H. Bisset, Secretary of Scottish Woollen Trade Mark Asso-
ciation, Outlines Conditions in Woollen Industry — Says Scottish
Mills Now Running 60 Per Cent. Capacity — Serious Losses Have
Been Taken on Account of Cancellations — Promoting Trade In

Canada

THE VISIT of the seventeen Scot-
tish woollen manufacturers to
Canada and the United) States for
the purpose of investigating these mar-
kets on behalf of the Scottish Woollen
Trade Mark Association, which they rep-
resent officiary, has been duly announc-
ed in the press in both countries. The
object of the visit of this delegation
was in reality for a still greater pur-
pose, namely, to promote more cordial
relations between the Old Country and
the two great nations on this side of
the Atlantic as well as to study the
needisi of the various markets in order to
increase the volume of business in sea-
sons to come.

The scope of the Scottish Woollen
Trademark Association is well known,
comprising as it does 80 per cent, of the
woollen and worsted trade in Scotland,
and including 35 manufacturers and 5
important yarn spinneris.

British manufacturers have suffered
severely from imitators in recent years,
and one of the purposes of the delega-
tion is to familiarize buyers' on this
side with the trade-mai-k stamped on all
cloth manufactured by members of the
association. Cloth thus marked is
guaranteed "Made in Scotland of Pure
New Wool."

Conditions Improved

In discussing the present situation in
the Scotch trade with a staff member
of Dry Goods Review, the Secretary,
P. H. Bisset, pointed out that conditions
have materially improved since last
May and mills are now running about
60 per cent capacity. Wool prices and
labor rates appear stabilized and two
wage cu'.s have been made. British
woollen manufacturers suffered more
than American producers because over
75 per cent, of their goods ar e taken by
export trade, and the home market nev-
er consumes more than 50 per cent of
the product. Though few losses were
sustained in this country, many mer-
chants lost heavily in South America
and other markets where their liabil-
ities were much heavier than those of
American houses. British mills were
also caught by the slump while at full
production, and manufacturers and mer-
chants were loaded with large stocks
bought at high prices, whereas Ameri-
can mills had their depression between
seasons and the curtailed production re-
suited in the rapid improvement at the
beginning of the year. There have been
no failures among the large woollen
mills and few of importance in the job-
bing trade in Great Britain.

Due to the large export trade British
warehousemen and jobbers had large
amounts in frozen credits outstanding,
besides being compelled to carry over
the clothing manufacturers who got in-
to difficulties. Mills are compelled to
grant long extensions to merchants and
are themselves being carried by banks.
An examp'e of difficulties in export
trade is the situation of one large firm
of jobbers which had £800,000 in can-
cellations from South America. The re-
sult of all this is to restrict working
capital available for new operations.

Orders during the year from Austra-
lia and New Zealand have been excellent
and Japan has also bought large quan-
tities for shipment to China. Good
business was also done with United
States early in 1921. British manufac-
turers like Americans, are at present
shut out of Germany and Austria by the
rate of exchange.

"The brightest spot of the year,"
concluded Mr. Bisset, "was the woollen
hosiery trade, which has greatly aided
in stabilizing raw wool prices due to
unusually large consumptions. Mills
are running full time and are booked up
to (he end of next May."

The delegation arrived in New York
on January 10th last and since that
time have been in Philadelphia, Wash-
ington, Boston, etc., in the States, as
well as in Montreal, Toronto, Hamilton,
Niagara in Canada. The trip concluded
by a visit to Rochester, Cleveland and
Chicago while the party sai'ed from
New York on February 14th for home.
During their stay in Montreal the party
were entertained by the Canadian Asso-
ciation of British Manufacturers and
the Montreal Board of Trade as well as
the Association of British agents and
His Majesty's Senior Trade Commis-
sioner, Mr. Milne.

During the course of the dinner ten-
dered to the delegates by the Associa-
tion of British Agents in Montreal, W.
Thow Munto, the Chairman, gave an ad-
dress which was listened to with un-
usual interest.

Mr. Munro said that the two main
purposes of the delegation in Canada
were to become acquainted with busi-
ness men, and to become acquainted
with trade condi'ions here. He thought
it most important that business men
from both sides of the At'antic were
getting to know each other more intim-
ately.

"We are, no doubt, insular," said Mr.
Munro, "and possibly a little egotistical;
and for these reasons we have probably

suffered from insufficiency in supplying
the foreign markets. I maintain, how-
ever, that the greatest factor in selling
is trust in the seller, and I would a
thousand times rather be regarded as
slow and insular, than not maintain
that reputation for integrity which the
British business man enjoys."

John H. Shaw, one of the original
founders of the British Agents' Asso-
ciation, outlined the work performed by
that body during the twenty years of
its; existence. It was felt that such an
institution was necessary on account of
the absurd jealousies then rampant
among the agents representing British
firms in this country. They were now,
he said, in close touch with each other,
and were able, through concerted action,
to deal wi h laws considered unjust or
not in the interests of inter-Empire
trade. He instanced several cases
where the association had protested in
this manner, and obtained concessions
which had been a great benefit to t
general trade. In one case — that of the
Banking Act — he said that the associa-
tion had Tiot been successful in its at-
tempts at amending this law. He
thought that the shipper of goods
should have the priority of right of pay-
ment, and that the hypothecation of
goods by the banks was not a fair meas-
ure.

Black Eye to Credit

"It is no good mincing matters," said
the speaker, "there are some of our
laws which give a great big black eye
to Canada's credit."

F. H. Bisset, secretary of the Scottish
delegation, in a witty speech, said that
the clothing industry, which his group
was representing, was as necessary as
food — even though the opposite sex
seemed doubtful about it just now. He
was glad to be among countrymen after
two strenuous 1 weeks in the United
States, but he felt that good re'ations
between all the English-speaking peo-
ples were essential to the trade and the
civilization of the world.

Brief addresses were made by Mr. G.
T. Milne, H. M. senior trade commis-
sioner in Canada; Messrs. C. J. Glenny
and J. Laffoley, president of the Dry
Goodls Association of Montreal. The
arrangements were in the hands of J.
Hugh Peattie, honorary secretary of
the British Agents' Association. Mr
W. M. Capper presided.

The Delegates

The delegation is composed of the fol-
lowing:

(Continued on page 37)

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

Dry Goods Revieu,

KING'S CELEBRATED
SCOTCH WINDOW HOLLANDS

SOLD BY ALL LEADING WINDOW SHADE JOBBERS

Made by

JOHN KING & SON

GLASGOW, SCOTLAND

Established 1775
Canadian Representatives : CAMPBELL, SMIBERT & CO., MONTREAL and TORONTO

Robert Morton & Sons

MUSLIN MANUFACTURERS

34 Albion Street, Glasgow

- SPECIALTIES -

Buckrams - Sparteries - Marlys

MILLINERY MUSLINS IN BLACK,
WHITE AND COLORS

Also
PALE BOOKS, NAINSOOKS,
LAWNS, INDIAN LINENS,
PERSIAN LAWNS, CHECK
CRINOLINES, MADRAS AND
HARNESS MUSLINS, ETC.

Cables: Morton, Glasgow

Code: Marconi

Your

Partner

The name "Horrockses" is one of the best
salesmen in your store.

As your customers lift the material, feel
it gently, passing it between finger and
thumb, they see the name on the selvedge,
and the sale is closed.

No one needs to know more about India
Longcloths, Nainsooks, Cambrics, Diapha-
lenes, Madapolams or any fine cottons.
Spring will see the usual big demand for
Horrockses' goods. Do not hold back your
order. We will gladly give you the benefit
of any reductions in prices before shipment
from Manchester.

John E. Ritchie

Canadian Agent,

591 St. Catherine Street West, Montreal.
Branches in Toronto and Vancouver.

United States Agents:

Wright & Graham Co., 110 Franklin St..

New York City.

Made by

Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Limited

Cotton Spinners and Manufacturers
Manchester, England

Dry Goods Review

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

The Fine Scotch Underwear
with the Fine Scotch Finish

It is nothing to know that'"Pesco" is
produced in the largest Hosiery fac-
tories in Scotland. It is much to the
point that the "Pesco" factories them-
selves are spacious, lofty, clean, well
ventilated and provide the ideal con-
ditions for the production of quality
goods.

Situated in Hawick in the South of Scot-
land as these factories are, Pesco has, more-
over, many natural advantages. Workers are
skilled in their craft and jealous of the repu-
tation of their productions, technical in-
struction is free and taken advantage of by
many, chemical research is proceeding apace.
the water supply is pure and plentiful, and
even the atmosphere is fresh and favourable.
And amongst a hundred other contributory
causes must surely be mentioned a sturdy
local patriotism which visibly influences
character, and through character work.

Proud of "Pesco"? Certainly! It is the
life's work of some hundreds of us.

Sole Makers:

Peter Scott & Co./ Limited

Hawick, Scotland

London (England): Carey House, Carey Lane, E.C. 2

Agents in Canada:

Messrs. C. & A. G. Clark, 95 Wellington Street,

West, Toronto.
Mr. R. C Poyser, 418 King's Hall Building, St.

Catherine Street W., Montreal.
Messrs. Hanley & Mackay Co., Hammond Building

Winnipeg

Showcards, Window Tickets and Literature Supplied.

Enquiries invited.

Obtainable In Pure Wool and Silk
and Wool textures —

For Ladies — Combinations, Vests,
Spencers, Bodices, Drawers, Knick-
ers, Nightdresses, Bib Vests, etc..
etc.

For Children — Combinations, Night-
dresses, Sleeping Suits, Shirts,
Trousers. Knickers, etc., e'c.

For Infants — Binders, Wraps. Kilt-
lets. Gowns, etc.

For Gentlemen — Shirts, Trousers.
Combinations, etc., etc.
Also

Pesco Hose and Half Hose in Black.

Colours and Mixtures

and

Pesco Sports Coats. Jumpers, Under-

vests. Sweater Coats. Scarfs an<'

Caps In the latest styles and colour

effects.

Guaranteed Unshrinkable

* •■ i

,..••••••••....

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

LION CREST FABRICS

CASEMENTS

We keep up our large variety in 27in., 30in., and 50in.
Casements. Best value on the market.

CRETONNES

Extensive range in 30in. Domestic and Sateens.

Specially in 50in. Reversible and 50in. Taffeta Duplex.
High class and latest styles.

Through Wholesale and Shipping Only.

JAUFFRED & GARIEL

Manchester, England.

CANADIAN REPRESENTATIVES
George H. Napier, 417, Coristine Building, MONTREAL
Andrew Wilson - - - 91, Albert Street, WINNIPEG

Established over a Cenlury-and-a-half

WM. iGIBSON & SON

LIMITED

Hosiery and Underwear Manufacturer*

Head Office and Warehouse:
THURLAND STREET, NOTTINGHAM, ENG.

Telegraphic Address : "Wigibson, Nottingham"

Factories : —

Lincoln Street, Nottingham. Cromford Street,
Nottingham. Castle Donington.

Gent's, Ladies' and Children's Under-
wear in Cotton, Lisle, Union Mixture
and All Wool, in weights to suit all
climates.

Plain and Fancy, Striped and Em-
broidered Hose and Half Hose, Seam-
less and Fashioned.

Registered Brands :
ACT7EON, COMMONWEALTH, HOMANCOL

Agents for Canada: —

Allan & Macpherson, 31-33 Melinda St., Toronto

TELEGRAMS:
WAKEFUL
GLASGOW

CODE:
A.B.C.
5TH EDITION

WILSON & CO.

48 ALBION STREET

GLASGOW

Manufacturers

Ecru and Colored Madras Muslins,
Coin Spots and Figured Harness
Book Muslins Robe Muslins

Voiles

Anglo-Swiss and Broche Muslins,

"Wilsco" Lawns, "Zelette"

LACE CURTAINS

LACE NETS

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

THE HOLLINS MILL CO., LTD.

KNOWN
AS

FOR SHORT.

Cotton Spinners and Manufacturers.

Telegrams :
'SHEAF, MANCHESTER."

5 PORTLAND STREET,

MANCHESTER, ENGLAND.

Calicoes, Sheetings, Longcloths, Shirtings, Flannelettes, Window
Hollands, Pillow Cottons, Apron Cloths, Voiles, Gaberdines,
Poplins, Dress and Casement Fabrics, Tailors' and Dressmakers'
Linings, Sateens, Cotton Italians, Apron Prints, Printed Pyjama
and Blouse Fabrics, Dyed and Printed Velvets and Velveteens,
Plain and Fancy Muslins, Lawns, Nainsooks, Madapolams,

Cotton Georgette.

Wholesale and Shipping Supplied.

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

Dry Goods Review

AB.C 5'"&6 T ."E° WESTERN UNION ( 5 LETTER),
BENTLY, MARCONI INTERNATIONAL-

AMERICAN AGENTS

JeW. BASTARD (BOSTON 1 C

184 SUMMER S T
BOSTON. U.S.A.

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS YARNS" LEICESTER.. TELEPHONE 2470-1

■ ■»

Dry Goods R

eview

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

PURE IRISH LINEN THREAD

Manufactured by

ISLAND SPINNING CO.,

Lisb

urn

Ireland

Give this Thread a fair trial and, if
you desire to gain for your merchandise
a reputation for durable and depend-
able qualities, you will realize the wis-
dom of using "Fountain Brand" Thread
exclusively.

Walter Williams & Co., Limited

MONTREAL TORONTO QUEBEC

508 Read Building 20 Wellington St. W. 533 St. Valier St.
VANCOUVER, 217 Crown Building

TEXTILE SMALLWARES

JAMES CARR & SONS, LIMITED
CLARENCE MILLS

CLARENCE STREET. CHESTER ROAD

MANCHESTER

Manufacturers of all classes of Webs,
Cords and Bindings, in cotton, wor-
sted and linen; Curtain Webs, Edg-
ings, Layon Borders, Blind Cords,
Carpet Binding, Cotton Banding, etc.

Original Patentees of
CARR'S WOVEN LADDER TAPE.

WHOLESALE ONLY.

Agent for Canada:

Mr. D. F. Moore

Manchester Building, Melinda Street
TORONTO

The Mark of Fine Merchandise

With the March issues
of leading Canadian
magazines there will ap-
pear some striking new
advertisements for

(Reg'd)

"Viyella
"Aza

(Re (

"Clydella"

•/ (Reg'd)

Unshrinkable Flannels

These goods are partic-
ularly adapted to meet
the fashions of the day.
For Spring 1922 we are
also showing an exten-
sive range of English
cotton shirtings.

Stock in Toronto

WM. HOLLINS & CO., LTD.

(OF ENGLAND)

62 Front Street W., Toronto

Wm. Hollins & Co., Inc., 45 E. 17th Street, New York

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

Dry Goods Review

Does not
Stretch

S PEEDWELL) ;

Will not
Shrink

SUPER INDIA SHRUNK TAPE

Manufactured by

George H. Wheatcroft & Co.

Wirksworth, Eng.
gives more satisfaction than other
tapes, is more durable and is, also,
stronger. Have you tried it? If
not, one trial will convince you.

WALTER
WILLIAMS

&CO.
LIMITED

THE STAC.

MONTREAL

508 Read Bldg,

TORONTO

20 Wellington St. W.

QUEBEC

533 St. Valier St.

f. VANCOUVER

217 Crown Bldg.

What the eye
doesn't see —

is nevertheless an important factor
with your cloth. Unless the cloth is
properly shrunk good tailoring becomes
wasted labour.

Why risk your customer's goodwill by
supplying him with insufficiently
shrunk cloth with nameless stamps
such as "Well Shrunk" or "London
Shrunk" etc?

The best guarantee and absolute sat-
isfaction is obtained when the cloth
bears the name

JENNENS, WELCH & CO., LTD.

LONDON ■ HUDDERSFIELD ■ BRADFORD

The world's premier firm of cloth
workers, shrinkers, finishers etc., are
also proprietors of the renowned JBNN-
WEL Waterproof Rubberless finish ap-
plied to Tweeds, Serges, Coverts, Fancy
Worsteds, Costume Cloths etc.

JENNENS, WELCH & CO., LTD.

SPRING WOOD WORKS, HUDDERSFIELD

JOHN WATSON

EAGLE DOWN QUILT WORKS
MANCHESTER, - ENGLAND

Manufacturers of REAL DOWN and KAPOK Comforters

Embroidered and lace insertion BED SPREADS,

CUSHION COVERS and CASEMENT CURTAINS

Eagle Chamoisette dusters and polishers

CANADIAN REPRESENTATIVES:

Messrs. R. H. Ball & Company

716 Empire Buildings,

64 Wellington St. West, Toronto, Ont.

Sole proprietor of "LINWEAR"
(Reg.) a high-class cotton cloth with
the wear and appearance of LINEN

Mist Walton will again be Visiting Canadian Representatives in the Fall

Send for
Your
Copy
Today!

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what are purely speculative — perhaps you can't afford to speculate — If

not, you must be assured that you are really investing.

THE FINANCIAL POST specializes in an Inquiry Service noted for its

accurate and sound replies regarding investment. This service is free at

all times to subscribeis.

The careful opinions backed solidly by facts, the accurate news and the

weekly market reports that appear in THE FINANCIAL POST are your

sure guides to the knowledge that means safety.

Send for a sample copy today. The subscription price — $5.00 a year of

fifty-two issues — is really insurance on your invested money.

THE FINANCIAL POST S&SBrr^SKto

Dry Goods Review

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

SHEETS

and SHEETINGS

-the standard product of the British

Market— 99

Steadily maintain that irreproachable quality which
has made them famous and appreciated throughout
the world.

The reputation of the makers is a guarantee of the
worth of Rigg's Sheets.

Made only of specially selected pure cotton. Contain
no filling matter whatever.

RIGG'S SHEETS give most wear with the highest
degree of comfort. They neither shrink nor roughen.

Look for the name "Rigg's Sheets" on the selvedge. Accept no substitutes.

Rigg's Motto: Quality at a Consistent Price \

Canadian Agents:

From Vancouver to Winnipeg: E. W. Dean & Son, 82
Seymour Street, Vancouver, B.C.

East of Winnipeg: Mcintosh, Banfield & McClelland,
25 Toronto Street, Toronto.

Sole Manufacturers:

Rigg Brothers, Limited

Cotton Spinners and Manufacturers

since 1836.

6 Mosley St., Manchester, Eng.

Cables: Rigg Brothers, Manchester

^^^^M^^^^m Ba^^^MB M^B ^ M ^ M HHMHBBJ [

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

Dry Goods Review

ANDERSON & THOMSON

103 UNION STREET - ABERDEEN

Cables: "Woollens Aberdeen"

WHOLESALE WOOLLEN MERCHANTS

SPECIALIZE IN

SCOTCH, ENGLISH and IRISH SUITINGS IN CHEVIOT, SAXONY and WORSTED,
HOMESPUNS, SERGES, COATINGS and LADIES' COSTUME CLOTHS

London Office: 59 Gresham Street, E. C. 2. Established 1773.

j 1. ... I .1 11 II 1 II I I I I I 1 111 I I 1 I I I 1 I 1 111 I J i ■ II II 11 I 1 1 II I ■ 1 I I l I I I I I 1 I I I I i(

TI T f T ! I 1 III I IH I III I I g II I ITT I I I 1 I! I I 1 1 II I T I I I II ITII f ITT

Pegisrerea No 262 OOS

1 1 1 1 n t 1 1 m 1 1 1 1 n 1 1 r 1 1 m i f 1 1 1 r 1 1 1,1 1 1 1 1 1 1

The Hall-Mark of

Maximum Comfort and
Durability at Minimum Cost.

FIRST IN THE FIELD AND STILL LEADING.

Manufactured on THE GRADUATED
PRINCIPLE, and Commencing with TWO
THREADS in the TOP, it increases in
WEAR-RESISTING PROPERTIES as it
descends.

Thus THE LEG HAS THREE THREADS,
THE INSTEP AND FOOT FOUR,
and the HEEL and TOE FIVE,
making it essentially

What do YOU Wish 1 to
BUY

IN EUROPE

Being in touch with all manufacturers, we
can furnish you with ROCK BOTTOM
PRICES. WRITE US your needs"

FOGELIN & CIE.

4 1 bis Rue de Chateaudun

PARIS,
FRANCE

A HALF HOSE
FOR HARD WEAR.

ABSOLUTELY SEAMLESS
PERFECT IN FIT
GUARANTEED UNSHRINKABLE

T o be had from any of the Leading Wholesale Dry Coods House

fTT HM TT mH IIIT M TTi n i M TI MMM TIIT Mm

INFANTS FOOTWEAR Limited
LONDON, ENGLAND

Soft Sole Shoes
in Kid, Silk,
Poplin, Wool,
etc., and Hard
Sole Shoes,

Children's Woolly-Wear, Bonnets,

Gaiters, Mitts, etc.

CANADIAN BRANCH

GREENE-SWIFT BUILDING

LONDON, ONTARIO.

Good papers furnish A. B. C. reports to their advertisers.
Dry Goods Review is a member of the Audit Bureau
of Circulations.

Dry Goods Review

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

MATERIALS

THAT ARE WORTHY
OF THE FINEST AND

MOST EXCLUSIVE TAILORING

from one of
ENGLAND'S

best
representative
organisations.

EVERY PROCESS FROM RAW WOOL TO
THE FINISHED MATERIAL IS CARRIED
OUT IN OUR OWN MILL.

TV yf ATERIAL plays as large a
■*■ part in the production of a

" selling " suit as the " cut "
— nothing so conduces to a shabby
appearance as second-rate fabrics.

The TWEEDS produced by
Joseph Hoyle & Son, Ltd., are
made under ideal conditions by
highly skilled labour. Every care
is employed in the selection of
the right grade of wool and
scrupulous attention paid to the
weaving and finishing.

The dyes are fast to wash and to
sun, and the material as a whole
may be entirely relied upon to
give sterling service under the
most strenuous conditions.

OUR SPECIALTIES
FOR GENTLEMEN
INCLUDE .

SUITINGS

TROUSERINGS
OVERCOATINGS
SPORTS TWEEDS
CAP CLOTH S

FOR LADIES-
DRESS, MATERIALS
MANTLE CLOTHS
V E LOURS.

WHOLESALE & EXPORT ONLY.

JOSEPH HOYLE & SON LTD.

WOOLLEN MANUFACTURERS FOR ALL MARKETS.
PROSPECT MILLS, LONGWOOD, YORKSHIRE.

Telephone :
219 MILNSBRIDGE (2 lines).

Telegrams :
HOYLE. LONGWOOD YORKS.'

A.I., A.B.C, BENTLEY
AND MARCONI CODES

London Office :
6-7 ADDLE STREET.

Telephone :
P.O. CENTRAL 377.

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

Dry Goods Review

BUYERS SHOULD VISIT

THE TWO

GREAT BRITISH

TEXTI LE
EXHIBITIONS

TO BE HELD IN THE

SPR

922,

Lon Don

EMC.

Tickets of admission] can be
obtained fromjthe office of
this paper.

* ROYAL *
AGRICULTURAL

HALLLCNDON

CLOTHING CrWOOIlEN TRADf S

CLOTHING & WOOLLEN TRADES

MAR. 28-AP. 7

DRAPERY & TEXTILE TRADES

DRY GOODS REVIEW 27

WRITE TO BROCK'S

Good Service Brings Success

EVERY FIRM, to carry on Business

successfully, must be based on the

solid foundation of serving a satisfied
trade.

A disappointed customer is often a
lost customer.

If our traveller is not in your^ vici-
nity when you run short of some Jines,
OUR MAIL ORDER DEPARTMENT
is at your service.

THE W. R. BROCK CO., LIMITED

Wholesale Dry Goods
MONTREAL

Ask for samples of Fancy Dress Voiles, Beach
Cloths and Swiss Organdies.,

3gS >< — " ■»■—" — m »c

DRY GOODS REVIEW

The Load ?

"Y7DU intend buying a truck.
A You have a varying quan-
tity and weight to move from
one place to another in each
working day.

Can you transport the necessary
quantity daily in one ton loads? If so,
you should buy a Ford One-Ton Truck
rather than a heavier truck.

Stake Body

Platform — 97" x 64 '/£" inside
measure . racks — 24" high with
four slats running all around
platform Sign board 21" x 29"
on each side of racks. Stakes and
racks solid hardwood . cab has
full length doors and double-
ventilating windshield

Because.

(1)

(2)
(3)
(4)

Express Body

94" x 57" inside measure;
panels 13" high inside with 7"
flare board . rear end gate hinged
and chain fasteners. Heavy mal-
leable braces on panels and flare
boards , stringers, panels, etc.,
hardwood. Cab— full length
doors and double ventilating
windshield , drop windows in
doors.

Canopy Top Body

96" x 46" inside measure;
panels 14" high, flare board 5 Yt"
high ; top of roof from floor 58".
drop tail gate, with chain and
hinges. Top is removable ; side
rear and driver's storm curtains
with Parelyn lights; full ventilat-
ing windshield.

The first cost of a heavier truck is at
least three times that of a Ford One-
Ton Truck.

A heavier truck demands Unemploy-
ment of a more expert and conse-
quently a higher paid driver.
Theoperating cost of a Ford One-Ton
Truck is only a fraction of that of the
heavier truck.

Service — which is so essential in the
operation of commercial vehicles —
is always available "round the cor-
ner" when you own a Ford Truck.

Call up the nearest Ford dealer, he can prove these state-
ments by cold hard figures from the experience of others.

Dealers are now able to make delivery of the Ford Truck
Chassis equipped with standard Stake, Express or Canopy
Top body.

Ford Motor Company of Canada, Limited, Ford, Ontario

109T

DRY GOODS REVIEW 29

yMiM ^MM^^^^^^^^^^

WE ARE READY

"HER LADYSHIP"

READY-TO-WEAR GARMENTS
MEN'S FURNISHINGS
CARPETS

Our warehouse offers every facility for promptly completing sorting
orders, and a thoroughly dependable service in connection with ship-
ment of goods.

TO C- |Qh>^)

TORONTO

For the benefit of buyers who may find it convenient to visit the
Toronto market during February or March we can assuredly state
that we are fully prepared to demonstrate as a special feature the
fact that our showing of Wash Goods this season is very exceptional in
character, variety and value. In consequence, worthy of special con-
sideration at this time. Further we would announce that all of our
eight departments have thoroughly complete assortments now on hand
for

SPRING SEASON 1922

Including all classes of

STAPLES

WASH GOODS

DRESS GOODS
WOOLLENS

SMALLWARES !

Letter order department always at your service

DRY GOODS REVIEW

ALL WOOL

Pure Silk and Artificial Silk Hosiery as well

as Cotton and Thread Hosiery dyed u Hawley's

Hygienic Black w can now be obtained*

Attractive

Showcards,

Price

Tickets, etc.,

featuring

this and

other

designs

are now

available

and supplies

will be

gladly sent
upon

application
to the

Offices of
The

Dry Goods
Review,
143453

University
Avenue
Toronto.

HAWLEYS

HYGIENIC BLACK

BRITISH DYE

fftye deepest Vye
for

HOSE and SOCKS

Every pair
bearing Hawley's stamp is
Warranted Fast & Stainless
to Washing Wear &Perspiration

are now

Every pair is clearly stamped with the name
"Hawley's" and is a guarantee to the purchaser
of the Fast and Stainless qualities of the Dye.

'ry&ooc/s Mpiew

Volume XXXIV.

TORONTO. CANADA, FEBRUARY, 1922

Number 2

Pioneer Edmonton Firm has Kept Abreast

With the Latest Development of the Time

"The Caledonian" of Twenty Years Ago Gave Place to Living-
ston's Limited and Added "Ladywear" — "Everything in Sight
and Value for Money Received" — Only Two Sales a Year —

History of the Store

THE older residents of Edmonton,
capital city of Alberta, have,
among other landmarks, a depart-
mental store called "The Caledonian,"
owned by Alex. Livingstone. As one of
the business houses which gained the
confidence of the public more than twen-
ty years ago, it has had a somewhat re-
markable career, in that the owner has
never for a moment rested on his pion-
eer reputation. But as the city grew,
his aim has ever been that his business
should expand with it, and as the busi-
ness centres changed somewhat, Mr.
Livingstone was sure to be on the spot
almost ahead of the changes.

So it happened that about five years
ago, "The Caledonian," located for years
in the eastern business portion of the
city, not only changed its location, its
dress, but also its name. A splendid
new brick block began to rear its head
in the very heart of the shopping dis-
trict — Jasper Avenue, west — just across
the corner from the Hudson Bay, and
when completed, the new name that
shone on the door plate was "Living-
stone's, Limited." The Caledonian had
been moved part and parcel from its
east end location, and with the move
it took on more of the nature of a spec-
ialty shop than it had formerly aimed
at. Livingstone's is a store into which
the woman shopper may walk and be
dressed from tip to toe, and not only
that but she may fit out many depart-
ments of her home as well. The store
is exceedingly spacious, airy and well-
lighted, occupying but one floor — except
for the offices on the balcony — but
everything so excellently arranged that
the floor space is ample for display pur-
poses.

Nothing Spectacular
The proprietor, Mr. Livingstone, lives
up to his good Scotch record by aiming
at nothing spectacular in his store ar-
rangement, sales, or advertising. His
object has always been, during his many
years of business experience in Edmon-
ton to see that the firm's name was a

guarantee of quality and square dealing,
and his patrons are a living testimony
of his success along these lines. Just
the same, there is nothing slow about
the store policy as was demonstrated by
the first move mentioned, and Living-
stone's had a further surprise in store
for the public which materialized about
a year ago.

A Second Store

Bright new stores, lots of window
space, fresh paint, polished floors, sun-
light and good air must be Mr. Living-
stone's hobby — and one might add a
hobby which catches the public fancy —
for in possibly the other best location
in Edmonton (101st St. near the corner
of Jasper, and with the Market Square
very near) another brand new store be-
gan to rear its head about a year ago.
This one followed the plan of Living-
stone's Limited on Jasper West, though
on a somewhat smaller scale, and the
name which appeared over the door in
due time was "Ladywear."

Mr. Livingstone realized that a store
midway between his old Caledonian
stand and his present west-end location
would catch a good deal of the country
trade in particular, and of the transient
customers as well, for the C.N.R. depot
lies a few blocks down the street from
"Ladywear" and the traveller must
needs wend her way down town along
101st street, then the MacDonald Hotel
— the big Canadian National Railway
hostel — is not far in the distance.

Help Yourself

So the new store made its bow to
the public particularly as a woman's
outfitting establishment, a place where
the visitor to the city, whether from
town or country could step in, see every-
thing on display, ticketed, and in good
open sight, so that she might really
make her choice without the services of
an attendant should there be a rush on,
or she is in a particular hurry. "Lady-
wear" specializes on the popular price
garmen 1 - — not the cheap, shoddy article

— but the dress, suit, or coat which has
conservative lines, is made of reliable
materia], and which can be offered to
the buyer without too much of a strain
on her pocket book. The farming com-
munity is, as a rule, more on the look-
out for value in texture of material than
the sometimes more casual city shopper.
The farm woman knows that the coat
she buys must stand the scuffing of
many a long ride in her trusty car, that
her hat must weather many a dust
storm and rain shower probably, and so
it is that the windows of "Ladywear" try
to show the shopper of this kind that
they have the article she wants both in
quality and style.

It is a pretty little shop indeed; light
greys and creams predominate in the
store fittings and window settings; there-
are two comfortable fitting rooms, and
on the balcony a really tempting mil-
linery display — ready-to-wear of course..
The system is followed of clearing the'
store of one season's goods to make
room for the next season's new goods,
and as there is no extra space in either
the main store or the branch for the
storing of old stock, there is no chance
for "moth and rust to corrupt," and the
public to have any old goods foisted on
it.

The two yearly sales then are real
events. J. F. Harler, advertising man-
ager, who has been with the firm for
many years, puts all his energy into
making them real value-giving events,
and when the public is once trained to
expect something really worth while at
a certain season of the year, half the
battle is won, and there is nothing much
further needed than merely to announce
the sale. Mid-summer, and January then
are busy times for Livingstone's Lim-
ited and Ladywear, and after "the shout-
ing and the tumult" have died away
there is nothing more to do than to
sweep out the waste paper, and put in
the new season's stock.

(Continued on page 37)

GENERAL SECTION

Dry Goods Review

A Churches and Charities Contest

Successfully Operated By The Arcade Of Hamilton — Giving
Away $5,000 To Churches And Charities— The Nature Of The
Awards — An Important Change In The Nature Of The Contest —
Over 5,000,000 Votes Secured — Closing Date An Important

Factor

MAKING it worth while to the
churches and charities of Hamil-
ton and vicinity to interest them-
selves and their friends in a contest has
been the effort of The Arcade, Limited,
of Hamilton for a couple of years. In-
cidentally, it has been worth while to
The Arcade as well. Along with various
other activities of this progressive or-
ganization they conceived this p. an
whereby the members of many of the
city and vicinity churches would become
salesmen and saleswomen for The Ar-
cade. In other words, the interest which
could be created in this contest would
result in actual purchasing at The Ar-
cade because the various contesting
churches would not only enlist their own
membership in a campaign of buying at
this store, but would get after other
church members as well whose own
church might not be a contestant in the
Church and Charities Contest. The
Arcade has recently finished the third
contest of this nature and an evidence
of the manner in which it has grown is
shown by the number of votes cast. In
the first contest there were over 2,500,-
000 votes cast; in the second over 3,000,-
000, and in the one just closed over
5,000,000. The iarge increase during
the last contest may be explained, par-
tially, by a new regulation adopted
which encouraged the smaller churches
to stay with the campaign tiJ the end.
Formerly, it was noted that some of the
smaller churches dropped out before the
contest ended.

How It was Launched

The original contest of The Arcade
called for the dispensing of $5,000 to the
churches and charities in Hamilton and
vicinity by this firm. Of this amount
$2,000 was for charities; $1,500 to the
churches of Hamilton, and $1,500 to the
churches in the vicinity of Hamilton, and
within a radius of 25 miles. The sales'
check made out with each purchase of
merchandise acted as the pivotal point
of the contest. A ten cent check or any
multiple of ten cents entitled the church
member (who must be fifteen years or
over) to either one vote or to the number
equal to the division of ten into the mul-
tiple of ten. Thus, if $1.00 worth of
merchandise was bought, it entitled the
church member to ten votes. The con-
test ran for a number of months and
closed about the middle of December
during the last contest, but even later
than this during the first contest. This
closing date is rather an important fea-
ture of the contest which wi.l be men-
tioned later in this article.

A HINT TO ADVERTISERS

In a new text-book on the psy-
chology of advertising an interest-
ing paragraph occurs of interest
to the men's wear trade in par-
ticular. It is headed "Men and
Women as Purchasers" and states
that "the only article of clothing
bought by men exclusively is col-
lars, whereas 80% of men buy
their own shoes and hats. In 50%
of the cases of purchases of men's
wear, women are the buyers of
handkerchiefs, socks, underwear
and jewelry, not the men them-
selves. In a third of the cases
where shirts are bought, women
help to pick them out. To sum up
these general statistics, it has
been found that women buy men's
things exclusively eleven times as
often as men buy women's things.
This information should materially
assist the advertisement writer in
selecting his view-point and should
be especially recalled during the
weeks preceding Christmas and
Easter when more than the usual
amount of purchasing of wearing
apparel is done."

The awards of the contest were as
follows: —
10 AWARDS TO CHARITIES

$500 to the charitable institution re-
ceiving the largest vote.

$500 to the charitable institution re-
ceiving the second largest.

$300 to the charitable institution re-
ceiving the third largest.

$200 to the charitable institution re-
ceiving the fourth largest.

$100 to the next six charitable institu-
tions.

10 AWARDS TO CHURCHES IN HAM-
ILTON

$500 to the church receiving the larg-
est vote.

$300 to the church receiving the se-
cond largest vote.

$200 to the church receiving the third
largest vote.

$100 to the next three churches re-
ceiving the largest vote.

$50 to the next four churches receiv-
ing the largest vote.

10 AWARDS TO CHURCHES NEAR
HAMILTON

$500. to the church receiving the larg-
est vote.

$300. to the church receiving the se-
cond largest vote.

$200 to the church receiving the third
largest vote.

$100 to the next three churches receiv-
ing the largest vote.

$50 to the next four churches receiving
the largest vote.

A Change in Last Contest

A change was made in the last con-
test, due to the fact that it was found
that smaller churches that entered the
contest dropped out before it was finish-
ed because they felt they had no chance
against the larger ones. In the contest
of 1921, therefore, the churches were

classified as fol.ows-

CLASS A

Shall consist of churches having over

750 members
7 AWARDS

$300 to the church receiving the largest
number of votes.

$200 to the church receiving the se-
cond largest number of votes.

$100 to the church receiving the third
largest number of votes.

$50 each to the four churches receiv-
ing the next largest number of votes
CLASS B
Shall consist of churches having over

500 and not more than 750 members
5 AWARDS

$300 to the church receiving the larg-
est number of votes.

$200 to the church receiving the se-
cond largest number of votes.

$100 to the church receiving the third
largest number of votes.

$50 each to the two churches receiving
the next largest number of votes.
CLASS C
Shall consist of churches having over

250 and not more than 500 members
7 AWARDS

$300 to the church receiving the larg-
est number of votes.

$200 to the church receiving the se-
cond largest number of votes.

$100 to the church receiving the third
largest number of votes.

$50 each to the four churches receiv-
ing the next largest number of votes.
CLASS D
Shah consist of all churches with a

Membership of not over 250
13 AWARDS

$300 to the church receiving the larg-
est number of votes.

$200 to the Church receiving the se-
cond largest number of votes.

$100 to the church receiving the third
largest number of votes.

$50 each to the ten churches receiving
the next largest number of votes.

In addition to this, $1,600 was given

to charities directed by the voter. $500

was the capital award, $400 the second;

$250 the third; $150 the fourth, and $50

(Continued on page 37)

Dry Goods Review

GENERAL SECTION

33'

Ritchie's Long and Honorable Career

Have Served the People of Quinte District for Upwards of Three-
Quarters of Century — First Principles Laid Down Have Been Ad-
hered to Throughout — Transactions on Strictly Cash Basis — The
Advertising Manager Acquaints The People With Heads of The

Firm

GOOD store publicity was recently
given the Ritchie Co., Ltd., Belle-
ville, by their advertising manag-
er. We cannot do better than outline this
in the advertising manager's own words,
accompanied by cuts of the men in charge
of this very progressive eastern Ontario
retail firm that, for many years, has
commanded the respect and patronage
of many patrons in the Bay of Quinte
district.

CHARLES M. REID

President of the Ritchie Co., Limited

"For sixty-three years," said the ad-
vertising manager in a five column ad-
vertisement in their local paper on
January 14th, "the old firm of George
Ritchie & Co., known as the Ritchie Co.,
Ltd., have been serving the people of this
district, bringing merchandise from al-
most every country in the world and
laying it before their many patrons in the
Bay of Quinte District.

"Occasionally some lady or elderly
gentleman will drop into the Company
store and say, 'I have traded in this store
ever since it started in business.' These
old customers are necessarily becoming
fewer all the time, but the business has
gone on steadily, forming new constitu-
encies and a wider range of patronage
for all these years until it is now recog-
nized as one of the leading businesses in
Canada.

"Not only have the customers chang-
ed, but the management has changed
from time to time, and it is a great many
years since there has been anyone con-

nected with it that was in the firm at
the commencement.

"After the death of George Ritchie in
1878, the late Thomas Ritchie became
head of the firm. He gave his active at-
tention to the firm for a great many
years, carrying on the same principles
upon which the business had been found-
ed, viz.: — Goods bought in the best mar-
kets, marketed at the closest possible
prices; equal service for all, rich or poor,
large or small purchases; one price only;
and goods to be bought and sold for
cash.

"About fifteen years ago, Mr. Thomas
Ritchie practically withdrew from active
work in the Company and Mr. Reid, the
president, took over the controlling
stock and became the real head of the
Company. Mr. Reid has had associated

5. Exchang2 of any goods that are not
exactly as represented.

6. Your money back if you are not
satisfied.

7. Absolute courtesy at all times no
matter whether you make purchases or
not.

8. Prices always the lowest at which
skilled merchandising, advantageous buy-
ing, and complete equipment can place
the goods at your disposal.

9. Comfort of shopping in a well light-
ed, well equipped, well ventilated and
agreeable store.

"We naturally feel very proud of our
more than sixty years of business suc-
cess. Not once in all these years have
we failed to meet our financial engage-
ments, nor have we failed to pay one
hundred cents on the dollar to our cred-
itors. We are glad to have achieved such
a long and successful business experi-
ence.

"But we are not satisfied. We shall
not rest idly on past achievements. We
shall not allow ourselves to be thought of
as merely old or reputable. It is not
enough that we have built up the largest
business of its kind in this district.
Cheerfully and courageously we shall
face the increased responsibilities of

FRANCIS P. THOMPSON

Managing Director the Ritchie Co.,

Limited

with him a lot of splendid men as heads
of the various departments and these
men are still with the Company as may
be seen from the accompanying photo-
graphs. They are all stockholders in the
Company and will continue to unitedly
carry on the business on the same plat-
form that has made it such a success in
the past. They will assure the public of:

1. A square deal in every transaction.

2. The best service that can possibly
be rendered.

3. Business conducted on a strictly
cash basis.

4. Absolute dependability of goods sold.

J. H. BRYANT
Manager Men's Department

building a bigger and better future. We
shall constantly strive to continue to
lead, and to be worthy of the increased
patronage that we are constantly en-
joying.

GENERAL SECTION

Dry Goods Review

C. DOUGLAS REID

Secretary-Treasurer

"We ask you to note the length of
service of the various heads of our de-
partments. We doubt if anywhere in
Canada a better record can be found.
Men remain with this Company because
it is a good place to live. Never is anyone
asked to do a dishonest or dishonorable
act. This business has been built, and
will be continued, on the principle of
the Golden Rule.

"We ask for a continuance ol your
much-valued patronage. We will always
be at your service with the right goods,
at the right time, and at prices that you
may have confidence in."

A short biographical sketch is given
of each of the heads of the depart-
ments in the store and special emphasis
is laid on the length of time they have
been with the Ritchie Company. It is a
fact worth noting that the combined ser-
vice of these gentlemen with the firm
totals 144 years.

"UP TO STANDARD NOT
DOWN TO PRICE

(Continued on page 14)
cost of production. The business we do
is in the very highest class of Scottish
woollens and if the market is not ready
for this kind of merchandise at the pre-
sent time we will have to au revoir and
come back again at a later date. We
cannot come down to mass production
first, because we are not in a position
to do so; and second, because it is not
in the blood to do so and with us that
is the more important point." In con-
clusion, Mr. Munroi referred to some of
the difficulties they were experiencing
in the different markets of the world.

Sir James Woods

Prior to Mr. Munro's reply to the var-
ious speakers of the afternoon, Sir
James Woods, President of the Gordon
MacKay Co., Ltd., Toronto, spoke on
behalf of the wholesale Dry Goods
Trade of Toronto. He said he was glad

JAMES BUCHANAN

Manager Ladies Ready-to Wear

Department

S. McGUIRE
Manager Dress Goods Department

to welcome the delegation on behalf of
the Dry Goods trade, particularly be-
cause of the relationships that existed
between two parts of a great empire.
He hoped this would not be the last de-
legation of business men from the old
land to visit Canada to strengthen the
hands of trade across seas. Referring to
trade conditions, Sir James referred to
the Fordney Bill that has recently been
passed by the congress of the United
States; during the last seven months,
he said, there had been an alarming
falling off in exports from Canada to the
United States. The Motherland, on the
other hand, was the one sure customer;
but it could not be expected that we
would receive a great deal of trade from
there if we, in turn, did not trade more
extensively with the United Kingdom.

H. J. B. POSTE

Manager Carpet, Rug, Furniture

and Drapery Department

"Your coming here in the prosecution
of a campaign to protect a name," said
Sir James, "is, along the lines of ad-
vertising, one of the best things I have
ever known. You are building up to a
standard and not coming down to a price.
The fact that you will not allow any one
to become a member of your association
who does not agree to live up to a high
standard is an assurance, I think, that
your trade mark will not suffer."

T. W. Learie

T. W. Learie of the W. R. Johnston
Co., Ltd., of Toronto, spoke on behalf of
the clothing manufacturers of the city
and, in their name extended a welcome
to the de.egates. He highly commended
the banding together of these Scottish
manufacturers for the simple purpose
of protecting a trad« mark and all it
meant to the quality of their merchant-
ddse. He felt that such a step would not
fail to enlist the active interest of Can-
adian business men.

As an indication to the visitors of the
extent of the Canadian clothing trade,
Mr. Learie referred to some statistics^
that would be worth while their consid-
ering. In 1910, the investment in the
clothing industry in Canada amounted
to $16,350,000, and in 1919 it was $38,-
629,000. In 1910, they had manufactur-
ed goods to the value of $33,745,000 and
in 1919, $70,498,000. Seventy per cent,
of the clothing trade was the ready-to-
wear in comparison with the tailor made
clothes. In 1918, Canadian c.othing
manufacturers purchased in the raw
material state $25,422,000 worth of
goods while in 1919 it was $16,836,000,
"We have a market here worth develop-
ing," said Mr. Learie.

John O'Connor

Speaking for the retail trade, John

O'Connor of the Murray Kay, Co., Ltd.,

of Toronto, commended the traditional

policy of the Scottish woollen manufac-

( Continued on page 37)

Dry Goods Review

DRESS FABRICS

ESTABLISHED 1887

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Single Copies, 25 cents.

Vol. XXXIV TORONTO, FEBRUARY, 1922 No. 2

Turn In The Road

THE MANAGING director of one of the large
wholesale houses in Canada who is also the director
of one of the chartered 1 banks of this country made
the statement to Dry Goods Review a few days ago that
he believed the turn of the road had been reached. He
believes business has definitely started on the upward
grade. His opinion is formed, not by events that are
transpiring in the large centres of population, but by
things that are happening in the more strictly rural por-
tions of the country; and it is worth while remember-
ing that prosperity in this country begins with improv-
ing conditions in agricultural areas. His opinion is con-
firmed by reports that reach him from the travellers
of his own house — and he takes it for granted that other
houses are meeting with as favorable responses from the
trade all over the country. From two departments in an
ordinary sized store in Ontario, one of their travellers
booked $15,000 worth of business — and this retailer
was not more their customer than any other wholesaler
house in the country.

The reason assigned for the opinion of this man is,
to use his own words, "the farmer has come out of his
sulks." For a loug time the farmer has sulked. His
produce was about the first to hit the toboggan slide of
prices and it hit hard. In comparison with many other
commodities, the farmer has not heen receiving a fair
price for his productive effort. This knowledge not only
engendered a feeling of resentment to "the city*' but it
found expression in his refusal to purchase absolute re-
quirements. Over a year ago Premier Drury in address-
ing the Credit Men's Association in Toronto stated that
the farmers in this province — he knew it for a fact —
were refusing to buy many things they needed because
they believed prices were too high, and he went on to
say that they would not buy till they believed prices
were down to a reasonable basis.

Much water has run under London bridge since that
speech. Prices have come down materially in nearly
all, if not all, commodities. The farmer believes, at last,
that prices are down to a reasonable basis with produc-
tive costs what they are, with high railway rates and
with other high costs that enter into the selling price.

And being convinced that this is so, he is going into the
market again to buy.

If this statement of the case is really as presented, it
is a harbinger of steadily improving business conditions
in this country.

Still Taking Losses

THE CHARGE has too frequently been made
against the retail trade of this country that they,
have not taken their losses during the last eighteen
months when all markets have been on the decline. In
some cases, this charge has been all too true. There have
been some merchants who have been tardy in marking
down their merchandise to a figure anything like re-
placement values. They will be the chief sufferers of
this unwise step, for, in the meantime, competitors have
done so and have added to their sales and their regular
store friends by so doing.

A visit to many of the dry goods stores in this prov-
ince at the present time would convince the doubting
that retail dry goods merchants have taken their losses
and, what is more, are still taking them. This and Janu-
ary are the months for stock-taking in man t y stores. Dry
Goods Review has been in many of these stores during
the last six weeks and has seen merchant^ still taking
losses on lines of merchandise that show a lower market
value than when they were last listed in stock. They are
hopeful that this may be the last one they will have to
take for it probably includes the last bits of merchandise
that were purchased at prices anywhere near the peak.
These losses are not being taken by aggressive merchants
on many of their lines — only on a few. They have clear-
ed their stocks and are in the market to buy frequently
and when the price suits them. There is one thing in
addition that should not be forgotten — the retailer wants
to see a market for the thing he expects to buy before
he buys it. Hence, he buys from hand to mouth.

Look For More Profits

KEEN MERCHANDISING men who have their
stocks in the proper shape are looking for more
profits this year than last, not a wider margin of
profit but a more profitable year. They have taken their
losses, the last of them in the stock-taking they have
just finished or are finishing this month. The bulk of
these losses were absorbed during the financial year of
1921 and all the profits that were made would not off-
set this marking down to meet replacement value.

This year, however, they do not believe that such
losses will have to be taken. They do not contend that
there will not be some fall in prices in some lines; but
they do know that their stocks are in such shape and
their buying policy is so regulated that nothing could
possibly happen that they would have to assume heavy
losses again. They are operating on a sixty or ninety
days policy ; some departments are on a thirty days policy.
Their contention is, therefore, that they can make
some profit during the financial year of 1922. They
will go into the market frequently and purchase merch-
andise at a fair price and make a fair profit on it. Not
forgetting that quality is a bigger factor in the con-
sumer's mind as time goes on, they are not forgetful of
the fact, either, that price is a big consideration and a.
big drawing card at the present time. They figure that
they may sell less merchandise than last year, but that
there will be a profit in it against which thev will not
have to set other heavy losses as a result of falling prices
on stocks that are heavy on their shelves.

GENERAL SECTION

Dry Goods Revie'

Dry Goods Markets at a Glance

Retailer Calling in Stock Before Making Further Commitments —
Novelties in Fabrics Still Lead — Homespuns Active and Crepe
Silks Going Well — Guaranteed Price by Canadian Carpet Mills
— Manufacturers of Silk Lingerie Active — Ready-to-Wear Busi-
ness Opening Up

FEBRUARY in the wholesale houses is usually a
quiet month. A traveller went into a certain retail
house a few days ago and found the proprietor
busily engaged in calling in stock. "I won't stop this
job for the best traveller on the road; you'll have to call
again," said the proprietor without more than looking
up. That is one of the big causes for a quiet February.
Retailers are in the middle of stock-taking and they want
to see how they stand before they make any more com-
mitments. With them, too, it is between seasons when
Winter is just hanging on by its teeth and Spring is in
the offing. If a garment or article can be made to
hang together till Spring, it is made to do so. Trade
is hard, almost impossible to force.

Activity in the wholesale houses centres round the
delivery or placing orders for Spring merchandise.
They still expect to do a good sorting business, however;
the amount of placing, comparatively, has been small;
and when seasonal merchandise begins to move or to be
in demand, they look for good business. During the
last few weeks, Dry Goods Review has seen manv of the
reserve stocks held by merchants in Ontario. They are
very small, indeed, and if Spring business opens up fav-
orably, there will be some lively orders placed with a,
request for immediate delivery.

Fabrics

Novelties in fabrics are still in good demand both with
the specialty houses and the wholesalers. The early
Spring buyer from the retailer is looking for the newest
things in fabrics and the retailer is preparing to meet
the requirements of that buyer. Bright colors are es-
pecially good in the plain colors. Stripes, plaids and
checks of all descriptions have had a good run. Staple
lines are held up for the time being but they will have
their innings when the season is more advanced, so
wholesalers say. The whole woollen market points to
greater stabilization. There have been advances during
the last few weeks which would indicate this. Whole-
sale buyers who are looking ahead look for very firm
prices as far as they are able to see. They do not scout
the idea of fluctuations, but believe they 'will be slight.

The silk market still continues to hold its own. Trad-
ing in the far eastern markets recently has been dull
almost to the point of stagnation and buyers on the
New York market are purchasing only their immediate
requirements. Prices, up to this time, have not been
affected to any extent by this condition. Local whole-
sale houses report a shortage of pongees. Some new
creations in silks from the English market are being;
shown to the trade and seem to be meeting with a fair
response.

An evidence of the care that' has been exercised by re-
tailers in placings was seen in one of the wholesale
houses recently. Whereas formerly whole pieces of
wash goods would be taken, retailers are asking for half
pieces. The result of this is that some of the wholesale
houses are late in their deliveries of these goods.

Wholesale houses report that some of the Canadian
mills are away behind in their deliveries of factory
cottons. There have been no changes in staple cotton
prices during the past month and in the primary
markets, raw cotton has been quite firm.
Knit Goods

The Canadian carpet mills have assured the whole-
salers that their prices will remain firm until, at least,
the first of July. Last year this guarantee was given
only till the end of March but with a feeling that condi-
tions are more stable this year, they have extended the
date till July. Wholesalers state that the 'better grade
rugs are selling more freely. Wilton and Axminsters
are moving fairly well but the tapestry rugs are slow.
There is a feeling in certain quarters that this will be a
good year for floor coverings because of the better pat-
terns shown and the greater economy of these for house-
hold use.

Some of the Canadian manufacturers of tapestry drap-
eries are showing fabrics that are very creditable to
them and they are meeting with good success in the
marketing of them to the trade.

Novel designs in cretonnes are still being featured
and some of them might well Le used for dresses as well
as draperies for they are very much after dres- pat-
terns. While many of the larger firms that place their
orders direct with foreign houses have booked for the
Spring, wholesalers say that many of the merchant?
throughout the country have not yet hought their Spring
requirements of curtains and draperies. Curtains have
moved slowly. Some of the English houses are show-
ing some neat designs at tempting prices to the Cana-
dian trade at the present time and are meeting with
fair success.

Manufacurers' agents handling various linen lines
say that the price tendency still continues firm. They
believe that the manufacturers are about to begin opera-
tions on a more extensive scale because of business in
sight and the condition of stocks generally which are re-
ported very low. One agent stated to Dry Goods Re-
view that their stock sheets pointed to almost empty
shelves in the warehouses. Merchants are not doin ^ a
great deal of buying at the present time.

Home Furnishings

Manufacturers stale that the wholesalers are placing
more freely with them than they have done for many
months past, in fact, one agent stated that he had book-
ed three times as much trade with the wholesaler this
year than he hod done last year. The sweater trade has
not opened out very strongly yet but wholesalers believe
that this end of the knit goods business will come into
its own in due lime. The pullover style is becoming a
strong rival of the tuxedo and some very new creations
of this are being seen. Eor the present, many new
designs in bathing suits are being shown and business
in the seaside dress i< exceedingly good. In som° indus-
trial centres in Ontario the knit goods men are the only,

Dry Goods Review

GENERAL SECTION

or practically the only, factories running on anything
like ful] time. The February issue of Dry Goods Re-
view is the special knit goods number anJ. we would
call your particular attention to this section this month.
The latest information we have been able to -eeure is
contained in this section, together with some illustra-
tions of new goods.

Lingerie
Manufacturers of silk underwear are exceedingly op-
timistic of the future and say that the retailer has barely
begun to realize the profits on these lines. It is the case
that new firms are springing up almost daily or old
firms are adding special machinery for the manufacture
of silk lingerie. New garments are constantly on the

market and are eagerly examined by the trade. Manu-
facturers of these lines are enjoying a fairly good busi-
ness and look for it to develop as the year progresses.
Ready-To- Wear
Keady to wear trade for the retailer is beginning to
open up nicely. Firms report active buying by the con-
sumer. Taffeta dresses are selling well, though the
price is somewhat against them to date. Crepe effect*
are also moving well and the recent advance in the price
of crepe silks has advanced the prices of dresses to a
higher figure than was expected at the first of the
season. Manufacturers are busy with their Spring trade
and believe that the season is going to be a better one
than a year ago.

PIONEER EDMONTON FIRM

(Continued from page 31)
The special appeal to the public made
by the system of running the Living-
stone stores, is "everything in sight,
and value for money received." For
instance when the west end store puts
its new spring models on display the
splendid window space — it is a corner
store with eight beautiful windows — is
entirely devoted to these gowns and
suits. When you enter the store, and
go to the ready-to-wear department,
again everything is in open display and
good light; there is no chance for any
"piling-up" process of unsold models,
and the buying policy of the store is to
keep within the limit of sales, so that
the most up-to-date is constantly on
display.

You have only to speak to Mr. Living-
stone to have a good chance on a guess
at the county in old Scotia from which
he hails, and then you recall the name
of his first establishment — the Caledon-
ian. This store meant a great deal to
the shopping public of Edmonton twenty
years ago. It was a very large depart-
mental establishment, of big area, and
carrying everything from a button hook
to a Persian rug, with wearing apparel
for the whole family of course. Mr.
Livingstone made his first friends, and
gained his reputation here, and while his
new stores are, as before stated, more
exclusive, and cater more to the spec-
iality lines, there were many old east
end friends who rued the day the Cal-
edonian dissappeared from Namayo
Avenue to put on its more aristocratic
down-town dress.

The aforesaid Scotch temperament of
the proprietor has enabled him to gauge
the wants of his buying public to a
nicety, to keep in touch with the moving
business centres, and never to let his
establishments take a back seat by a
lack of innovations to keep them right
up-to-date. The success of the business
probably depends as much as anything
else on Mr. Livingstone's ability as a
keen buyer, with an eye on the public
requirements which never gets him "in
bad" with unsaleable stock, or poor val-
ues. There is nothing of the spectacu-
lar ever aimed at in the Livingstone
business, consequently it has held the

confidence of the public through bad
times and good.

A City Father

Mr. Livingstone has always taken a
keen interest in public and welfare ac-
tivities in the city of Edmonton too; he
has acted on the city council for differ-
ent terms, being Chairman of the Health
Committee for two years, and filling this
position with his customary energy and
thoroughness in the "clean-up" line.
Mr. Livingstone is also a member of
some of the fraternal societies — the St.
Andrews not being among the missed
out of course — and is an enthusiastic
golfer. Any city is the better for busi-
ness men of the type of Mr. Livingstone,
a type standing for fair dealing, integ-
rity, and business enterprise with a solid
basis.

DELEGATE SAYS

CONDITIONS IMPROVE

(Continued from page 15)
W. Thow Munro, of Munro & Co.,
Ltd., Edinburgh; C. J. Glenny, of Wil-
son & Glenny, Ltd., Hawick; Tom H.
Ballantyne, of D. Ballantyne Bros. &
Co., Ltd., Peebles; A. L. Brown, of
Brown Bros., Galashiels; M. M. Thor-
burn of Edward Gardiner & Sons, Ltd.,
Selkirk; Robert White, of Gibson &
Lumgair, Ld., Selkirk; Robert Sim, of
Heather Mills Co., Selkirk; Geo. Alex.
Hunter, of Hunter & Co., Galashiels;
W. R. Ovens, of Ovens & Shaw, Gala-
shiels; Gi'bert Paterson, jr., of J. & D.
Paton & Co., Ltd., Tillicou'try; A. J.
Sanderson, of P. & R. Sanderson, Gala-
shiels; Robert S. Hayward, of R. & A.
Sanderson & Co., Galashiels; Charles P.
Sanderson, of Sime, Sanderson & Co.,
Ltd., Galashielsi; George Rae, of Sime,
Wiliamson & Co., Ltd., Hawick; Robert
Christie of Simpson & Fairburn, Ltd.
Earlston; G. Washington Gray, of
B'enkhorn, Richardson & Co., Ltd., Ha-
wick, and F. H. Bisset, secretary of the
Association.

test. Between the 1920 contest and the
one in 1921, there was a difference of
about 2,000,000 votes.

An Additional Feature

One of the features of this contest was
the value of the sales' check to the hold-
er. As a matter of fact, it was worth
two and a half per cent, of its face value.
If a person presented $50.00 worth of
checks, he not only received a coupon en-
titling him to 500 votes in the cost but
a merchandise coupon as well which en-
titled him to $1.25 worth of merchan-
dise in the store. The Arcade encourag-
ed their customers to save up these cou-
pons and present them in December as
an aid to the fund for Christmas pre-
sents. It is at this point that mention
may be made of the closing date of the
contest. The Arcade feel that the clos-
ing date should be made early in De-
cember — at least not later than the 10th
of the month — so that ear^y Christmas
buying would result. It can be under-
stood that the presentation of hundreds
of thousands of votes in a very busy
month would entail a good deal of time
when that time might be better spent.
It is for this reason that they believe
the contest would be of more benefit to
the organization attempting it if the
closing date were made early in Decem-
ber. They found out that fully 90 per
cent, of these checks were presented
during the month of December.

CHURCHES AND CHARITIES

(Continued from page 32)
each to the next six. By the re-classi-
fication many more hundreds of thou-
sands of votes were added to the con-

"UP TO STANDARD NOT

DOWN TO PRICE"

(Continued from page 34)
turer represented — that of giving 16
ounces to the ipound and twenty shil-
lings to the pound sterling.

He said that had been the policy of
the firm he had the honor to represent
for years. There was no other trade
that had the hazards of the retail trade.
He believed that to a very large degree
the retail trade of this country was can-
ducted on a vei-y high plane. There had
been propaganda that called the retail-
ers profiteers but the fact remained that
an investigation by Harvard University
of 305 retail establishments in the Unit-
ed States and Canada of firms doing-
business ranging from a few thousand
dollars to over $29,000,000 had shown
that the average net profit on turnover
was less than 5 per cent.

MEN'S WEAR SECTION

Dry Goods Review

Advertises by Means of Hand Bills Distributed
To Worshippers as They Come Out of Church

Only Available Method Used By St. Hyacinthe Merchant — Big
Bulk of Trade Friday and Saturday And Weekly Papers No
Good For Advertising Sales For These Days — Church Sextons

Distribute Hand Bills

ABOUT an hour's journey from Mon-
treal is situated the town of St. Hya-
cinthe which as everybody knows is
a very important manufacturing centre, fam-
ous as the home of nationally advertised
goods of all sorts. The population of this
town is given by various authorities as be-
tween 11,000 and 13,000, which denotes
a population of considerable size as Canad-
ian towns go. Owing to the presence of so
many important factories in the town, there
is little unemployment among the people and
even in these hard times all the industries
have operated on half time or more continu-
ally. Still, in the face of these facts, it is
notable that there is but one men's furnish-
ing store in the place and the bulk of the
haberdashery purchased in the town is
bought at a small department store in which
nothing costs more than $1. Nobody can
account for this state of affairs, still less the
manager of the department store in question,
who is on intimate terms with the proprietor
of the shop which caters exclusively t o men
and who has no desire to take away his trade.

75% of Men's Wear Bought by Women

To a staff member of Dry Goods Review
the former explained his views on the sub-
ject. "Since I began business here I have
found that over 75% of the women of St.
Hyacinthe buy men's things. And the oth-
er 25% do the actual purchasing when ac-
companied by their husbands or sons. The
men apparently have nothing to say in the
matter, standing back and merely paying
for the article selected. When this store
was opened last year, we quickly discovered
that it would pay us to concentrate more
upon men's lines, so we transferred the sec-
tion to the front door in the hope that men
might feel more inclined to shop for them-
selves without feeling embarrassed in the
presence of women. But though sales of
underwear, hose, shirts, etc. have gone on
increasing, I cannot say that the men them-
selves are doing any more shopping than
they did. This disposition to pay so little
for their furnishings is due, I think, to an
innate spirit of thrift. The French Can-
adian of these parts is careful of his money,
and only spends so much of what he earns,
saving as much as he can. If he finds
that a suit of underwear of heavy wool can
be bought at our store for one dollar, he
would not dream of going to another
and paying a few cents more for it. Con-
sequently, our business is becoming very
popular with the people of the place and the
outside farming community simply because
we sell the kind of goods they want at the
lowest price possible."

Ties Sell Best

Asked what lines sold best, the manager

of this store said that ties were probably
the best sellers. "I am told that we sell
more ties than all the other shops put to-
gether here," he remarked, "and I attrib-
ute it to the fact that we can sell a really
good flowing-end tie for as low as 59 cents,
in neat color combinations which appeal to
French tastes. The bow-tie also, is very
popular and we can scarcely get enough of
them to satisfy us. Heavy underwear is
another very good seller as well as socks of
the heavier wool sorts and as for overalls, I
imagine we must have sold practically all
that are worn here, as we have none left and
unfortunately cannot secure any more at
the former low price." Negligee shirts
priced at $1.00 apiece are sold rapidly in half
dozen lots, to the women purchasers who
consider them excellent bargains. It is
seldom that a French Canadian woman buys
anything singly, she always likes to buy in
bulk, either threes or half dozens."

Church Sextons Distribute Handbills

"We have a curious way of securing our
publicity in this town," continued the man-
ager. "Owing to the fact that our three
newspapers are only published weekly, they
are not much good to us as advertising med-
iums. The great business days here are Fri-
day and Saturday when the market is open
and swarms of country people for some 20
miles around come to town with their prod-
uce. The papers appear on Saturdays, too
late to reach the country people until the
following Monday, and too late to feature
any sales or bargains for the Friday, so we
are obliged to find other ways to get the
necessary publicity. However, it is an es-
1 ablished custom down here to engage a man
to distribute 'dodgers' or handbills hrough-
out the different villages, these being en-
trusted to the sextons of the different parish
churches, who in turn distribute them to
the farmers and their families as they come
out of church each Sunday morning. The
farmer is a man who never throws anything
away. He puts the handbill into his pocket
and when he arrives home, the family study
it and compare notes on the different bar-
gains printed thereon, so that when they
arrive in town on the following Friday, they
know exactly what they want to get. Our
windows, of course, have to be filled with all
sorts and varieties of merchandise, because
quantity appeals to them rather than art-
istic display. It all simmers down to the
price asked, and if that is right then it makes
no difference whatever about the atmosphere
of the store, the service or anything which is
usually understood to affect the successful
selling of merchandise. On this account, I
expect to develop our men's furnishings de-
partment by degrees, since I have found the
secret of catering to the habitant's needs."

NEW MODEL MEN'S PAD GARTER

RECENTLY INTRODUCED

INTO CANADA

The extra wide width of this garter, to-
gether with the new style of fastening
which can be adjusted in a second com-
mends it to the consideration of trade.
Shown by Courtesy of the Arrow Gar-
ter Mfg. Co., of Montreal.

POINTERS FOR SALES-
PEOPLE

They pay your salary and sup-
port the organization.

Without customers the store
would cease to exist.

Customers as a rule have a
clear and definite idea of what
they want.

If argued with or contradicted
they will return to buy no more.

Customers are hard to attract
and not easy to retain.

One pleased customer tells an-
other, thus they multiply

A feeling of good will is instill-
ed.

There is no reason for havfhg
them feel otherwise.

Displeased cutomers can wreck
a business in short order.

No one likes to have their judg-
ment questioned.

A store makes money from its
friends; enemies trade elsewhere.

It is the only way a business
will thrive and prosper.

The customer develops a kindly
feeling for the sales clerk.

Dry Goods Review

GENERAL SECTION

Display Will Play Big Part in Spring Openings
And in Usual Celebration of St. Patrick's Day

Methods of Getting Results Suggested — Don't Delay The Spring
Opening Too Long — How a Window Can be Dressed for St.
Patrick's Day — Featuring Different Spring Displays — Use of

Price Tickets

OWING to the fact that Easter
occurs somewhat later than usual
this year, namely, in the middle oi
April, the retailer of men's wear will
have to reckon with an "in between"
period following upon the January clear-
ance sales. It is felt to be inadvisable
to begin preparations for the Easter
trade too early, and yet should the
weather man take it into his head to
send along several weeks of glorious
sunshine in late March, the retailer is
apt to be caught napping. There's n(o
reason whatever for leaving (prepara-
tions for Spring trade until the last ten
days before Easter. The preceding week
before this season is a very short one,
and every man finds out almost in the
same week that his suit looks worn and
his last season's top-coat is in the same
condition or else that he will need a
new hat or shirt or gloves. Hence the
rush during one short week or two.

According to a display manager in
one of Montreal's largest department
stores, a new policy will be followed
this Spring in this regard. Instead of
saving up the new goods until the last
of Marclh, they intend to feature displays
at the beginning of the month. Their
plan will be to begin to interest the
public in the new styles and novelties by
degrees until the regular formal Spring
opening is announced around the 20th of
March.

St. Patrick's Day

According to the display manager of
this store, he intends to pay more atten-
tion to special displays than formerly,
even through the goods featured are
nev.her exclusive nor expensive. He
mentioned the fact that St. Patrick's Day
will practically coincide wtih the dates
selected for the Spring openings and he
advocated the lavish use of green along
with other Spring decorations in order
to link up the idea and emphasize the
color note in displays. "We have more
reason than ever to be wearing the
green this year, since things have im-
proved over there," he added.

Everyone is familiar with the type of
accessories appropriate to the day, but
it may be worth while to reiterate
some of them. First and foremost,
there should be a harp, a real Irish harp
if such can be borrowed for the occasion.
This instrument should centre the display
of clothing or furnishings, tied with a
large bow of emerald ribbon. Such a
trim as this was featured by the R. J.
Tooke store on St. Catherine St. West,
and was a source of great interest to
pedestrians.

This is an excellent occasion upon
which to feaure Irish-made goods in
window disp ays. Coupled with the
date and the decorations, the merchan-
dise will take on an added significance,
especially Irish linen handkerchiefs or
Donegal tweeds or even green neckwear.
Linen collars are also properly included
in such a disp ay. The idea underly-
ing the display should not be mere show
but to make sales.

Suitable Decorations

The minor accessories which belong
properly to such displays as this are
shamrocks, Irish flags, clay pipes — the
Irishman's Dudeen, silk hats, pigs, po-
tatoes, shil'elaghs and pictures of Paddy
and his colleen. The phrases "Erin-
Go-Bragth" and "Erin Mavourneen" are
appropriate for showcards.

For the Spring opening proper, the
consensus of opinion among Montreal
men this year, tends to the belief that
they must exert themselves more than
usual in order to get results. The less
demand there is for merchandise the
greater the effort that must be put for-
ward to make sales. An attractive
background or setting gains the atten-
tion of the possible buyer, they say, and
the charm of a setting enhances the val-
ue of the merchandise in the eyes of the
beholder. There will be a general over-
hauling of display windows, fresh var-
nish and paint will be applied and any
leaks, cracks or scratches eliminated. If
f oors are too high or too low this will
be remedied, while the lighting will also
be examined. In many cases new
fronts are going to be constructed in the
smaller stores. The store's name will
be repainted or a new brass sign order-
ed. Rejuvenation will be the order of
the day.

Then, when the Easter season arrives
the store will be in readiness for a big
Spring campaign. One Montreal man
is planning to feature a different dis-
play in each of his windows appropriate
to a different class of goods. One

window will include sports clothes,
showing a go'fer, a fisherman and a fig-
ure in riding habit, together with the cor-
rect accessories for the Winter sports.
Another will show formal dress for Eas-
ter Day, including the correct morning
coat, silk ha% grey trousers and haber-
dashery. A third window is to show
ordinary business clothes for Spring,
1922, among which it is said the staple
navy blue suit will be very prominent.
These three windows are to be featured
for the Spring opening with no other de-
corative note than the use of quantities

of real flowers. Most display men are
of the opinion that artificial flowers are
out of place in the men's stores but
agree that potted plants such as lilies,
tulips, daffodils or azaleas are good,
when in conjunction with pieces of furni-
ture or a pedestal.

The more exclusive men's wear stores
of Montreal will not alter their legular
plans for displays in honor of the
Easter season, but will continue to show
smart merchandise m the usual man-
ner, without the aid of more than an
artistic show card announcing the
"Spring Showing." The colors that will
predominate will be white and purple
or white and mauve, and neckwear,
shirts, socks, etc., will be featured in
these combinations almost exclusively.

The use of wax forms for showing
men's clothing is growing slowly in
Montreal, although confined to very few
stores as yet. One or two display man-
agers have a decided antipathy to using
them, stating that they prefer to em-
ploy a headless form with the necks
softly draped. With the recent intro-
duction to this country of French and
other wax figures representing men of
life-like appearance, it is likely, however,
that these aids to better display will
become more widely used in stores which
possess sufficient window space to show
them to advantage. In this connection
it might be noted that at the recent
Exposition of French products in Mont-
real, several persons were completely
deceived regarding a striking figure
clad in a luxurious lounging robe, and
actually touched him to see if he were
alive or not.

"Easter" and "Spring" Openings

The main thing to remember in con-
nection with Easter displays as apart
and distinct from ordinary Spring open-
ings, is the fact that Easter is a re-
ligious festival, and that the ideas used
to accentuate the season must not be
overdone, nor exaggerated so as to be
extreme and even ridiculous. Rabbits
and chickens are appropriate enough but
are out of place in the men's store,
whereas the simple use of flowers, soft
draperies of purple velours or ribbon,
or a background suggesting a stained
glass window are dignified and suitable
for both clothing and furnishings.

Finally, the use of the price ticket is
highly recommended in the average store
for the Easter opening although for the
formal Spring showing it may be omit-
ted, an artistic show card sufficing. Let
them be small, however, and incon-
spicuous.

DRESS FABRICS

Dry Goods Review

Spring
Fabrics

For all
Occasions

Canton Crepe

Crepes Georgette

Crepes de Chine

Liberty Satins

Ninons

Printed Foulards

Silk Shirtings

Chiffons and

Printed Novelties

on Georgette and

Ninons

Cotton Novelties

Silk Dress Nets

On Yellow
Boards only

Visit us at Toronto or
Write us your inquiries

Lcs Successeurs de

ALBERT GODDE, BEDIN & CIE.

PARIS
LONDON

TARARE LYONS

NEW YORK

EMPIRE BUILDING : 64 WELLINGTON STREET WEST

Telephone : Adelaide 3062

TORONTO

E. Desnoux, Rep.

Easlern Canada Agent: G. P. Wynness, 113 Metcalfe,

Montreal

Western Canada Agent: Edwin J. Kirkbright, 205 Bower

Building, Vancouver, B.C.

BUTTERFIELD QUALITY

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r

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Sell

and

Repent

See the New
Wonder -Fabric

r, Sd ]t

fyerl

b° a)

meeting with phe-
nomenal success in
The States.

Write for samples
addressing Dept. R

FRED BUTTERFIELD & CO.

Incorporated

361-363 Broadway, cor. Franklin St.

NEW Y0RK k "CITY

Established 1838

BRANCH OFFICES :
Boston, 67 Chauncey St. Baltimore, Emerson Tower Bid;

Philadelphia, Bourse Bldg. Cincinnati, Greenwood Bldg.
Chicago, 223 West Jackson St. Louis, Columbia Bldg
Blvd.

_Je

Established Since 1838

Dm Goods Review

DRESS FABRICS

^ AAA ^i^^^^fcAAAAAA.^^****A^*U^*^»********i

M I M

***i

In Old Times or Ne

<w—

What fabric so delicate, yet so serviceable as cotton ?

— so dainty, yet so simple and unpretentious ?

— so inexpensive, yet so lasting ?

The best cottons are PRUE COTTONS.

Made by Canadians in Canada.

DOMINION TEXTILE COMPANY

" The ultimate choice of LIMITED

the PRUdent housewife."

MONTREAL TORONTO WINNIPEG

DRESS FABRICS

Dry Goods Review

Homespuns are Popular for Spring

Montreal and Ottawa Houses Make Big Showings of Domestic

and Imported Lines — Great Variety in Offerings of American

Houses — Some Very Striking Scotch Woollens Are Shown — New

French Fabric Called "Kasha" Being Asked For.

i HE coming - season will witness
a marked revival in demand for
British woollens of all sorts,"
stated a prominent Montreal woollen im-
porter to Dry Goods Review this month.
"Prices are now upon a stable basis
and the mills have begun once more to
accept orders which are coming in
quite freely and in much greater quan-
tity than last year. All that is now re-
quired is some sort of equality in ex-
change rates between the different
European countries to put matters upon
the permanent up grade."

Asked what he considered to be the
popular fabrics for the Spring and Sum-
mer season, this authority endorsed the
vogue for homespuns with great em-
phasis. "We have only begun to see
the possibilities of these fabrics," he
explained. "I believe that for wo-
men's wear it will be pre-eminent before
long for tailored garments, not only in
our own domestic weaves but in those
which are imported from Scotland and
England. Bright colors are particular-
ly strong at present."

A homespun, oil proofed by a special
process is being featured for coats, es-
pecially for rainproof coats because a
certain amount of the natural oil is thus
restored to the wool fibre, making it
more or less rainproof in character.
Shown in blues and purple, it is very
effective. Twilled effects are much
wanted but the smartest of all are the
hand-loom effects, reproducing the habi-
tant weave.

Tweeds of all sorts are in enormous
demand, it was said, especially in Scotch
mixtures of two colors or of a number
of colors and la fleck of white. Blue
and brown is perhaps the most popular
color combination in demand just now.

Blues are Varied

After so long a season of black attire,
women are demanding plenty of vivid
colorings in their dress goods, it was
said, and for this season the early show-
ings of fabrics for next fall are featur-
ing quite an unusual number of bright
tones, particularly in blues, which have
until now been confined to about three
staple shades. In smooth finished goods
especially is this trend noticeable. Tri-
cotine continues in good demand for the
making up trade in women's garments,
but jersey is not so strong, most re-
tailers seem to be making an effort to
clear out this stock as far as yardage
g*oods are concerned.

Quite a novelty in sports skirtings
was spoken of as a feature of the early
spring business. This material was de-
scribed as a white homespun fabric
heavily striped in deep blue or vice ver-
sa. The skirting is woven so that pleats

Three of the new fine texture homes-puns! The one on the left is plain, the
one in the centre is a brown and tan mixture and that on the right has
a design. — Shown by Hawthorne Mills, Carleton Place, Cnt.

of different sizes can be inliaid to create
an entirely white effect or one of the
blue as desired. Of the two effects —
checks or stripes — the preponderance of
favour goes to the latter entirely for
skirts, although in silks and other light-
weight fabrics, checks are spoken of as
being sure of a wide vogue.

American Ranges for Fall

In the range of fine woollens for next
Fall recently opened up by a well known
American firm, great variety is offered
in weights, colors and textures, the op-
inion being given that never before
have so many fine materials been fea-
tured at a single opening. Among the
different lines offered are the following:
Normandy cloths, Tricotines and twill
cords, velours, cheviots, broadcloths,
serges and knitted fabrics. Among the
napped coating fabrics there are many
new names to be found which will be-
come familiar next fall when the open-
ings get under way. These include,
Avalon, Rubadre, Lanclo, Rlattanna,
Beverly. The famous Normandy cloth
will be repeated again for this fall with
a variation on the name — Normanglo.
Then there will be similar fiabrics shown
such as Touraine, Delysia, Shawsheen,
Deloraine (which resembles Normandy
but has a gold thread,) Monetta and
Valprace.

Among the very high grade eiashmere
cloths are included Ormadale, Veldecia,
Duv-bloom, Velveretta and Velfina.
Polaire cloths are shown in a line of

pastel shades as well r.s reversible
pollaires with plaid backs. Tweed fancy-
backs and chinchilla cloths are other
favorites which conclude the showing for
fall and winter 1922.

Scotch Woollens are Striking

Among the interesting exhibit of
Scotch woollens shown by the visiting
delegation to Canada and the United
States this month there were novelties
to be found which were of interest to the
Canadian trade. Of course, every pat-
tern shown by these manufacturers is
typically Scottish in character, whether
of woollen or worsteds, such as Saxonies,
herringbones, tweeds, stripes, Bannock-*
burns and Glen checks, cheviots and
mixtures. The color effects were espe-
cially beautiful, some patterns having
as many as ten or twelve or even six-
teen blendings which tradition says were
adopted to imitate the many colored
gravel in the river beds of Scotland or
the native heather colorings. The
weights of these fabrics ranged from
12 ounce for suitings up to 32 ounce
for heavy overcoatings. According to
Mr. Bisset, the Secretary of the Dele-
gation, it has been found that little
change in the colorings has been asked
for by buyers although the question of
weights has proved of considerable im-
portance. British fabrics are wider than
American made materials on the aver-
age, it was found, and 16 ounces is
about the equivalent of 14- Y2 ounces in
(Continued on page 45)

Dry Goods Review

DRESS FABRICS

New Silks in Montreal Warehouses

Many Colors But White Is A Favorite — Popularity of Crepe
Weave — Some New Silk Skirtings And Some of The British Nov-
elties — Georgette Under A New Name — Roshanara

HAT IS THE leading color
for spring and summer in
silks?" was the query put by
Dry Goods Review to a leading Montreal
wholesaler this month. "Well, the Tex-
tile Color Association decrees peri-
winkle blue, rubellite, canna and apple
green and everybody admires these col-
ors sure enough, but when it comes to
actual buying, everybody takes plain
white," was the reply which was given
promptly.

Everywhere that Dry Goods Review
put the same question, the same answer
was received. The evidence is therefore
in favor of an all-white season, as was
predicted in Dry Goods Review some
time back. Possibly the reason for this
lies in the fact that never before have
there been so many exquisite sports
garments devised in knitted fabrics or
other materials, these being in vivid
colors for the most part, necessitating
ths use of plain white skirtings to show
up their appearance to the best effect.
Undoubtedly, the white skirt or frock
will be selected to accompany the sweat-
er or pullover of "bonfire" red or peri-
winkle blue.

Crepes Prevail

Crepe weaves carry the day entirely,
it is said, for summer wear, the bright
artificial silks or baronet satins not be-
ing s"o good, although the new jacquard
patterned baronets are good. Cantons
of the very best qualities are still very
strong, but owing to the fact that they
are being imitated in lighter weights
and in less beautiful finishes they are
being watched closely as time passes,
lest their popularity wane with sudden-
ness. Great demand is felt for heavy
weaves brocaded in a large allover de-
sign in self color, especially in white,
and in this connection "Silkway" a new
American product is exceptionally pop-
ular.

According to the Montreal silk buyer
quoted before, good) quality crepe de
chines are exceedingly scarce for rebuy-
ing. Swiss goods have gone up and it is
impossible to secure quick deliveries
on these fabrics for several months.

Krepe-Knit Advances

The big seller as was predicted in Dry
Goods Review last month has proved to
be the different variations on Chinchilla
cloth or Krepe-Knit. Although a very
large stock of this knitted silk was re-
ceived a month or so ago by this whole-
saler only one piece now remains, prices
from mills have advanced fifty cents per
yard on repeat orders, and no deliveries
can be made until next May. Navy
blue and' black (are selling fast in this
material which lends itself to the mak-
ing of tailored garments even better

than its predecessor tricolette, which
had the fault of sagging.

A novelty crinkle crepe especially wo-
ven for the making of Jupon blouses
was another effective novelty shown.
This was mjade in navy blue with a very
wide rose pattern border in natural
pinks and foliage shades printed across
the material from selvage to selvage at
yard intervals This material is intend-
ed to be cut into lengths suitable for
making the new long overblouses lasi the
rose border comes just at the correct
depth to be used as a finish. The tex-
ture of this crepe was like a real old
Chinese Canton, exquisitely fine and
rippled to the touch.

New Silk Skirtings

Still another striking novelty noticed
was a sports skirting of a similar crepe
weave, this time of ivory white striped
boldly in navy blue, the stripes being
fully three inches wide and set at equal
distances one from the other. Upon this
magpie effect was printed in even spac-
ing, a serious of enormous floral motifs
featuring roses in pinks and greens, the
whole presenting the effect of a magni-
ficent drapery fabric or a wall-paper.
However, when the skirting was pleat-
ed together, the roses magically disap-
peared, leaving behind a sombre blue
ground, relieved by the merest piping of

Broken check pattern in white develop-
ed in flocked design on black Normandy
voile. — Imported by the John M. Gar-
land Son & Co., Cttawa.

white at the edges of the pleats. A
great success is predicted for this silk.
For summer evening frocks nothing
can be imagined more lovely than the
newest Swiss chiffon taffetas in that pe-
culiar finish known as "taffetas change-
ant." This consists of a silvery sheen
that is indescribably lovely on the pastel
shades such as palest green, blue and
rose.

British Novelty Silks
A prominent Montreal firm has been
exceptionally fortunate in discovering a
British manufacturer of crepe silks who
is turning out designs in jacquard ef-
fect fully as lovely as any to be found
elsewhere. Having contracted for a large
quantity of these silks this firm will
shortly be in a position to offer the very
latest sports silks, British made, at a
fraction of the cost of those imported
from other countries. Owing to the
craze for plain checks which has swept
the country in cotton goods, silk buyers
are feeling out a new path with a line
of chiffon taffetas, checked in black and
white or in colors which are decidedly
smart and unusual. In the range of
black and white checks, there will be
four different sizes offered, while iin
blues, reds and browns, etc., there will
be at least three selections to choose
from. The favorite size is said to be
the inch check. For skirts especially,
these taffetas are promised a wide
vogue.

Pongees in Demand
Pongees are both scarce and high and
supplies .on hand in Montreal wholesale
houses are not plentiful. There is still
a small quantity available in the 33-in.
width at 85 cents, but buyers are warn-
ed not to delay placing orders much
later. Qualities in pongees are improv-
ing however, which a little offsets the
matter of price increases, which are now
fully 45 per cent, above six months ago.
Buyers are waiting for the Japanese
market to come down and are delaying
orders to effect this.

According to reliable authorities one
of the reasons for the difficulty in de-
liveries this season is due to the fact
that so much millinery is being made of
silk this season. Formerly much straw
was employed in the manufacture of
spring hats but now the contrary holds
true. Miladi must have a hat of "Gros
de Lbndres" or faille silk to be in the
fashion and in the brighter shades there
is not a yard to be had. Bluet or peri-
winkle blue is simply sold out every-
where, it is said. Spring millinery calls
for "intense" shades and few are strong
enough to measure up to the demand.
The leading colors wanted are rubellite,
flame and canna, pumpkin, Copenhagen
blue and apple green.

(Continued on page 45)

DRESS FABRICS

Dry Goods Review

Few Woollen Novelties in Paris

Manufacturers Are Reducing Prices on Some of Last Year's Nov-
elties — Customers Cannot Pay Above Certain Price — Serge to be
Popular and Revival Talked Of in Broadcloths — Many Plain
Silks Being Offered — Fabrics for The Seaside

Written specially for Dry Goods Review by JEANNE GSELL, of Paris, France

PARIS, January,1922

THIS letter, announced in my prev-
ious mail as relating- to Summer
woollens, will not be such a long-
one as I anticipated for the following
reason:

On seeing- various collections and talk-
ing with the salesmen of the leading cloth
houses here, I came to the conclusion that
there would not be many regular novel-
ties in the woollen line this season.

Last year was not a very profitable
one for them, because the prices they
were compelled to ask for novelties was
too hig-h; here, the customers are willing
to buy but they cannot and will not pay
more than a certain price; they will rath-
er do without the things, this from the
wholesaler to the retailer, and to the
latter's customer.

Lowering Prices

Under such circumstances, the whole-
salers, rather than spend a lot of money
to create new designs, which they were
not sure to sell, thought it would be
better to lower the price of last year's
collections (which, by the way, will still
be novelties, since they were not sold
extensively,) and bear the loss.

This does not mean that there will not
be any variety in the stuffs ordered, for,
you will remember by my letter of a
year ago on the same subject, that any
amount of striped, checked, fancy-woven
materials wer e offered then. The lat-
est style proposed was a "fil a fil," viz:
a nice pure wool fabric woven in white
and black, so as to give a grey effect,
one white thread and one black both
ways. Although it was extensively seen
in the full Summer, it is likely to be
still largely demanded for suits this
Summer, as it was very stylish indeed.

Serge Patterns

Serge is sure to be asked for, as it
makes delightful Spring dresses, either
plain or trimmed with braiding, and
even embroidered. Some houses have,
now, ready-made, some embroidered
serge, which may be papular, although
it may become too common, at it gener-
ally happens with machine embroidery.
Still, in many cases, it may be found
useful to make suits effective, and not
too expensive.

I have also seen a few different pat-
terns of serge, navy or black, with silk or
satin looking motifs woven in the stuff.
This, too, was rather nice, and suitable
either for whole garments or as trim-
mings.

The revival of broadcloth, which start-
ed last year, is sure to be continued

Above — Gingham patterned dress cretonne which is much in demand for summer
frocks, shown in a range of dainty color contrasts and designs. In this
sample blue and yellow checks are combined with conventional roses and
violets in the nosegay motif.

Below — "Bouvelle Velours" — The newest drapery fabric is printed iti corduroy
velvet, a 36 inch fabric shown in three different patterns and varied
grounds. This is well spoken of for upholstery for wicker furniture. —
Shown by W. R. Brock & Co., Ltd., Montreal.

In that respect, it is most likely, the
warm travelling and motoring coats will

this season, especially with longer skirts,
and more elaborate dresses. Broad-
cloth, in black especially, is very becom-
ing, and has a good many adepts in the
middle-age class of ladies. It is not yet
extensively seen in colors, although
there are cases when it is striped or
checked in the bright shades at present
in favour, green, red, saxe, etc.
Fancy Flannelettes
Although it is rather late in the sea-
son for such materials. I must point out
some very pretty reversible flannelettes,
suitable for saut de lits, peignoirs, which
has just come out: it is generally in light
shades with dots, plain or fancy, some
checks, plaits, etc.: the shades mostly
seen are white and light blue or pink,
mauve of two shades, mole and blue, etc.
Some more fanciful patterns are khaki
with bright green patches, which, at a
distance looks very much like the velours
de laine we made our Winter coats of.

not vary much, as far as the material
is concerned, and I may say that we
shall have to choose between the usual
velours de laine, or ratine, or bure, that
I have mentioned many times already.

New Silks

In the silk department, much is said
about the plain silk fabrics known as
"crepe morocain," a thick creipe de chine
that was already seen last season, crepe
georgette, crepe satin, a thick fabric
still, and foulard.

The latter, especially if the fashion
for black and white still prevails, will be
seen in a great many instances, with
fancy printing-s of a most irregular
shape, motifs in length being favoured
by the manufacturers.

As a rule, all kinds of stuffs will be
(Continued on page 45)

Dry (roods Review-

DRESS FABRICS

HOMESPUNS ARE POPULAR

(Continued from page 42)
American materials. Comment was
made also on the habit common on this
side of the Atlantic of following styles
closely and almost universally. In Bri-
tain, it was said, that there are much
greater divergences due to individual
tastes than here, which accounts for the
fact that Scottish manufacturers gen-
erally make up a greater number of
patterns' than is the case with American
makers. The main point emphasized by
the visiting members of this delegation
was the fact that they are not trying to
compete with Canadian trade but to in-
troduce essentially individual fabrics to
this country, which could not be produc-
ed outside of Scotland on account of at-
mospheric conditions.

Although not shown among the collec-
tion of samples, white fabrics lare expect-
ed to be very much in demand next
summer for skirts and costumes.
Serges are being sold in large quantities
as well as soft flannels of the better
grades. The new French fabric called
Kasha is already being called for by
certain stores.

French Broadcloth Arrives

In conversation with a leading Ot-
tawa wholesale firm this month, Dry
Goods Review was informed that east-
ern Ontario retailers are demanding
large quantities of the new sport flan-
nels in high colors in plain or fancy de-
signs. Of all shades, American Beauty
is proving most popular. White and
cream serges are also exceedingly popu-
lar with this Ottawa firm as are t
better qualities of cream flannels. The
Same house reports a recent shipment of
fine French chiffon broadcloth, the first
received since before the war, and
states that in brown shades particularly
this fabric is finding quick buyers.

Cross bred serges in 40 inch widths
for popular priced trade have long been
scarce but large shipments are expected
by the middle of February which will in
some measure satisfy the great demand.
Staple tricotines and Scotch tweeds are
exceptionally good with Ottawa trade
this month, heather mixtures selling
plentifully.

Owing to the large purchases in Eu-
ropean markets stocks in Ottawa ware-
houses are now well assorted land moder-
ate in price. No falling off in the de-
mand for yardage goods is being felt
but a remarkable increase in novelty
fabrics is already noticeable.

NEW SILKS IN MONTREAL

(Continued from page 43)
There is not much demand for plain
colored taffeta this spring, the reason
being given that once the Easter dress
trade is over, the consumer wants sports
clothes and to feature these effectively
only the rough textured fabrics are suc-
cessful. This also hampers the vogue
for silk to a greater degree.

Speaking of georgette, a buyer stated
that this is likely to be revived to a
great extent this summer but under an-
other name. Already a considerable

quantity of what is called "triple crepe"
is being called for to make dressy hats,
and this fabric is really a heavy Geor-
gette with a lit.le stiffening in it.

"Roshanara"

Supplies of heavy Roshanara crepe in
bordered effects suitable for forming a
handsome trimming are now received at
Montreal. This crepe is especially ef-
fective in navy blue but is featured in
all colors. Silk ratine in white or bright
colors is likewise a big seller already,
while honeycomb cloth, which is a mix-
ture of wool and artificial silk with a
crinkly or rippled surface, almost cired
in effect and quite uncrushable, is an-
other popular novelty.

Jacquard designs on heavy baronet
satins are coming in now daily, and
many large and unusual patterns are in-
cluded among the all-white range.

FEW WOOLLEN NOVELTIES

(Continued from page 44)
printed, even cotton crepe, some samples
of which are most extraordinary: huge

Japanese designs, mostly for kimonos,
prevail.

Taffeta is sure to be proposed many
times, for, although it was favoured to
a fairly large extent already, its vogue
has not yet been complete, and it won't
go out of fashion so soon.

It seems that silk jersey, and all kinds
of silk hosiery are still favoured, and
yet it took them years to come out!

For the Seaside

Sponge cloth is also sure to be very
much in favour for the seaside, and even,
if the shades are pretty, in plain, and
the stripes effective, some Summer
dresses may be seen in various instances
in town. In the country, this material,
together with all light cotton fabrics, is
sure to be very much in favour.

Ail these hints are suggestions; next
month, the first collections of the sea-
son will be out, and I shall be able to
tell you in a more precise way what will
be favoured, and what will the new
shapes and styles be.

Yours very truly,

Jeanne Gsell

Upper Left —

Chiffon taffetas in large block checks for pleated skirts are to be in
demand for summer wear to accompany silk sweaters. Four sizes of
checks are offered in black, scarlet or blue with white.
Upper Right —

Novelty oriental crepe de chine featuring the familiar Persian pattern
on a blue around. For linings, scarves and dress trimmings.
Lower —

New honeycomb silk just arrived from England, which is guaranteed
uncrushable. This silk is made of wool and silk fibre and comes in
various plain shades with a high finish. The surface has the new blis-
tered or rippled finish.

All Fabrics Imported and Shown by Courtesy of Greenshields

of Montreal.

DRESS FABRICS

Dry Goods Review

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NOW READY

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SILKS LIMITED
RIBBONS LIMITED
NOVELTIES LIMITED
DRESS FABRICS LIMITED

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Your mail orders given prompt attention. Salesmen are now on the road with our
complete lines. Buyers while in the city are asked to call and see our splendid

range of merchandise.

MONTREAL

TORONTO

WINNIPEG

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Fashion Sponsors
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Followers of Fashion demand

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and is guaranteed rain-proof, moisture-
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The "DYNAMO BRAND" stamp pro-
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CHAS. MOUTERDE

{United Makers)

MONTREAL

Room 705

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TORONTO
80 Wellington

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Tel. Adel. 4184

DYNAMO BRAND

Dry Goods Review DRESSFABRICS 47

Homespuns!

LEAD THE WAY.

It is an established fact that Homespuns are the keynote for Spring 1922
and repeat orders coming in from every Province confirms the fact that
the women of Canada are calling for and buying Homespuns.

Our range contains four outstanding numbers and Dressgoods Buyers
should make a point of seeing each of the following qualities before
making final purchases.

The "PENTLAND" 56-inch wool dyed, shown in nine solid and seven

two-tone effects, closely resembles the Hand-made
Homespun. Shades, Nile, Rose, Fawn, Tan and Blue,
and in combinations of these colors.

The "WESTERDALE" 54-inch Homespun having a beautiful soft finish —

the eighteen colorings include all of the Season's popu-
lar mixtures. Unexcelled for Sport Suits.

The "HARPSDALE" A cloth having a soft flannel touch, 54 inches wide,

in nine different combinations from Light Grey to Olive
and Brown tints.

The "STROMA" A cloth specially adapted in weight and finish for

the smart tailored suit in six mixture shades of darker
tones.

Our Department of Novelty Skirtings has on display the latest productions in
Striped and Checked Effects in Worsteds, Flannels, Tweeds and Homespuns.

Buyers visiting the warehouse while in the City will find the call a profitable
one and we shall appreciate the visit.

Samples to the Trade on Request.

DAVID W. ROSS

Wholesale Textile Fabrics

78 BAY STREET, TORONTO

MILLINERY

Dry Goods Be view

Large Hats for Spring and Summer

Buying From Maritime Provinces Has Been Up To Last Year —
Trimmings Used in Paris This Season Will be Seen Here — Jute
to Feature Strongly for Spring — Hats for Younger Girls — Some

of the Models Described

BUYERS from the Maritime pro-
vinces and the west have almost
completed their shopping in Tor-
onto. The wholesale houses are more
than pleased with the volume and kind
of business done by these visitors. They
say it compares favorably with that of
this time last year. Quebec and Ontario
have shown little interest as yet but
there is every reason for faith in these
provinces when business is good in the
extremities. One millinery manufactur-
er and importer says that he will have
his eastern and western orders all out
before February 25, in good time for
late buyers.

The early prophecy in regard to flow-
ers and fruits can now be corroborated,
designers declare. In fact all of the
trimmings which Paris is using this sea-
son will be seen here. It is a peculiar
thing, that while shapes take one or two
seasons to find their way here, trim-

mings usually come over in their first
season. Large hats which took Paris
by storm last summer did not appear
even in New York last Fall to any ex-
tent. There is every reason to believe,
however, that they will be strong in the
late Spring and all Summer.

Though early indications pointed to
bright shades with black the last two
weeks have found a good demand for the
all-black ones. This may have followed
in the wake of the sudden vogue for
contrasting colors on the Spring frocks,
which are shown so far.

Jute the Newest Thing for Spring

Jute is nothing but the old-fashioned
hemp in various shades. This all-over
material is especially favored because
of its flexibility and it is not as expen-
sive as the cellophane and other straws
which are good this year.

Angora braids are being talked of in

millinery circles. They form the basis
for splendid midseason chapeaux and in
fact rival the haircloth in some houses.
The latter will of course be very good
for black hats while the braids will be
seen in most of the pastel shades.

One or two millinery firms are stress-
ing hats which have tweed-like straw for
wear with tweed suits. These are very
chic and give a tailored effect ho neces-
sary with the new suits. They fill,
moreover, a real need. The ordinary
bright colored dress hat has no place
with the homespun and tweed costume,
while the all-black is a trifle severe with
it.

Floppy Garden Hats Expected

That the floppy shape so becoming to
many women, will be worn, is almost
certain, several designers who have just
returned from New York, declare. They
have been talking with Paris buyers on
(Continued on page 62)

Millinery trimmings this Spring have a decided oriental character. Most unusual are the shapes and colors em-
ployed, especially in the devising of novelty effects. The accompanying sketch reproduces some of the best liked
trims of the month, including the nuitchstick, which is he^e shown in a rosette effect, as well as used in flat
embroidery. — Trimmings Shown by Courtesy of Debenhams (Canada) Ltd., Montreal.

Dry Goods Review

MILLINERY

In Readiness for Millinery Openings

Montreal Display to Open on February 27th — Handmade Hat of
Novelty Allover of Braid Dominates — Parrots Among the Late
Novelties — Fruits in Realistic Effects — Circular Veils of Sheer

Quality

FEBRUARY finds the Montreal
wholesale millinery houses in
readiness for the openings which
take place upon the 27th according to
custom. Already buyers are coming in
and many of the choicest models appear
in the show rooms only to take wings,
so to speak, and are quickly dispatched
to eager purchasers throughout Canada.
Business is opening up briskly and on
all sides the comment is being made
that models were never smarter nor
more varied and individual in type than
this spring's showing.

There is of course a similarity in the
general trend of style as observed dur-
ing visits to the leading wholesalers
this month. The handmade hat of nov-
elty allover or braid dominates the
scene in a bewildering variety of types.
French models are now among those
prerent also, and give distinction to all
the showings by reason of their daring
originality and superb workmanship.
New York is also liberally represented,
but it is whispered that insofar as style
is concerned Canadian made models
have nothing to fear by way of compar-
ison with imported effects this Spring.

A designer in a leading store stated
to Dry Goods Review that part of the
present rush for new millinery is at-
tributable to the fact (hat Easter comes
later than usual and women must have
something now for immediate wear but
they will require hats of more summery
character for May. Provided the weath-
er man sends a warm sunny month in
April, there is no reason why Summer
millinery should not be launched earlier
than usual, with immense success.

Unconventional Brims
Hats for immediate wear therefore
favor both small turbans and rather
larger brimmed shapes, both of whi~h
may be characterized as more youth
ful and even dashing as has been the
case with spring hats in several seasons
past. Brims are anything but conven-
tional and crowns are scarcely ever of
the same material as their brims. Flow-
ers appear everywhere in colorings that
never were beheld in nature, yet which
are charming withal.

Mention was made in last month's is-
sue of the vogue for the novel "match-
stick trimming" upon hats. This Ir-
is decidedly the smartest, apart from
the floral type, of any shown and buyers
can seldom resist these models which
are trimmed with cabochons or a fence-
like border of this realistic bead-work.
As the trade is now familiar with this
type of trimming, it is not necessary to
dila'e upon "match sticks" other than

to say that they can be utilized in a
great variety of ways, including pom-
pons, facings, edgings, etc. Mon.real
milliners are using a large quantity of
white sticks with a black bead tip, or
else the high shades, such as emerald,
sealing wax red or bright blue tipped
by a bead of black or white. The mat-h
sticks carry out the idea of shiny, stiff
effects admirably and are closely allied
to the theme of lacquered and cire novel-
ties, which is tV dominent key note of
the entire spring showing.

"Birds of a Feather"

Another amusing novelty is the vogue
for parrots, either imitations, made of
feathers lacquered, or merely etched up-
on celluloid plaques. Other tiny bi c<
which appear 10 be dipped in silver
paint, or entirely made of beads and
mother of pearl spangles with a topaz
eye, or even cleverly devised of past
feathers of various color contrasts. The
bird idea is well brought out although
its composition may be something en-
tirely foreign to nature!

Composition quills with painted sur-
face, continue to be displayed, while
plume-like effects cut out of galilith or
celluloid are exceedingly smart in the
brighter shades. So-called "lightning
rods," studded with brilliants are very
effectively used on the front of blac'-
cloth turbans, adding distinction with
their brilliancy.

Berries and Fruit Clusters

Fruits — such as would tempt the
most case-hardened Adam — are offered
in realistic effects, mostly all glazed
and highly polished. Such are raspber-
ries, cherries, grapes, currants and even
blackberries. Leaves are not much us? 1
except to surround soft cockades of
flowers. Flowers form, an inexhaust-
ible topic of interest to all millinery de-
signers, who are enthusiastic over the
new flat effects of taffeta and velvet
wi.h pinked edges, usually centred by a
speck of hand embroidery to complete
the realism. A flower of any size is
seldom made completely of one color
but is often composed of several .shaded
tones blending from deep to palest tints.
Thus are made many charming flower
turbans which are colorful near the face
but shade off to a pastel tone towards
the crown. Flowers are usually adapt-
able to all sorts of crushed effects and
are frequently caught into odd corners
betwixt brim and crown to fill out an
awkward hiatus.

Great enthusiasm is shown for bioux
or duck feathers, whether they are em-
ployed as a fringe, pompon or imitation

bird effect. Ribbons also, particularly
trie lacquered varieties of a supple
drapy quality, are favored to form smart
outstanding wing effects at either side
around the crown of small milan tur-
bans. Ribbons are much used also as
bindings. Padded effects, which are
composed of massed appliques of tubu-
lar crepe are a very smart brim finish
on small hats.

Small Round Veils

Small circular veils of the sheerest
quality are lavishly used on ce
shapes merely as a softening effect.
Veils in general do not descend over the
eyes at all, but are arranged to hang
to the back or to frame the hair softly
all round.

A prominent milliner informed Dry
Goods Review that there would not be
as much of the fuchsia or periwinkle
colorings shown in Canada as in New
York for the reason tha„ they are rather
trying to any one without much color.
New York women, she pointed out, are
careful to seleci millinery colorings to
bring out their individual type of com-
plexion and they do not hesitate to im-
prove on nature if they are deficient in
natural coloring. Canadian women, as
a rule, are not blessed with pronounced
complexions and should select the new
spring shades with extreme care. Even
bright blue is trying to anyone but the
debutante.

The same authority spoke enthusias-
tically of the extensive variety of sports
hats which she has originated for
spring. Wool braid mixtures are used
for the most part, blended in such a way
that the hats are practically umcrush-
able and can be turned inside out if so
wanted, either to show another color
contrast or to give an added lease of
life to the hat. The new spring costume
of homespun or tweed calls for a hat
of this type with soft roll brim and
plenty of dash and character. But wool
braids are by no means all. There are
also chenille, hemp, timbo, etc., which
are all appropriate to wear with severe-
ly plain clo hes on the links or for boat-
ing, etc.

W. C. Bland, president of the Bland
Manufac uring Co., representing the
Merchants Bank of Canada and Aaron
Rabinovich, head of the firm of A. Rab-
inovich & Co., Winnipeg, have closed
a deal involving over $300000. The
transaction concerns the Standard Fac-
tory and the Exchjsive Ladies' Wear
Company, both of Montreal, which have
been taken over by Mr. Rabinovich.
John Harwitz is associa f ed with Mr.
Rabinovich in the deal.

MILLINERY

Dry Goods Review

New York is Showing the Bell Crown

Fully Fifty Per Cent, of The New Shapes Are Blocked — In Spite
of Bright Colors Belief Is That Canadian Trade Will Stick To
Black and White or Grey — Some of The Montreal Models Are

Described

MILLINERS returning from New
York speak enthusiastically of
the new bell crowns which char-
acterize the latest shapes. Shapes vary
in size but the crown is the sign which
indicates that the hat dates from this
Spring. According to one buyer, the
lines of the new hats require much more
study than has been necessary for many
seasons. "Lines do not suit everyone,"
she remarked, "and it must be remem-
bered this season that we no longer have
to deal with the soft crushable effects
which can be given a touch here and a
pat there to make them becoming to any
profile. Another thing which is mcst im-
portant to remember is that trimming has
become a very significant factor in mil-
linery nowadays, and where a milliner
used to be able to get away with any
sort of trimming, she must now give the
matter her closest attention, otherwise
Spring hats will be utterly spoiled. The
new trimmings are unusual this season,
and are well worth devoting time to
study. There are many novelties which
are somewhat stiff and difficult to
handle in order to achieve a smart re-
sult. In my opinion, the trimming of the
new hats is going to be the most im-
portant phase of millinery this season,
and I should recommend that every mil-
liner give careful attention to manipulat-
ing all the varied forms of beadwork,
feathers, flowers and ribbon so as to
make millinery more distinctive and less
imitative in general."

50 Per Cent. Blocked

Fully 50 per cent, of the new shapes
shown in New York this month we>e
blocked, it was said by this authority,
who also predicts that in spite of the
much talked of vogue for bright colors,
the most exclusive trade will still con-
tinue to wear black and white or grey.
It has often happened that when vivid
shades were most widely spoken of for
millinery, black and white effects were
demanded by the highest class of trade.
Grey is likewise to be very popular
with smart women this Spring,
especially when made of black and white
closely intermingled. Practically every
shape is fashionable this Spring but
the sides must have width whether the
hat be small or large. The bandeau is
reappearing and is used to elaborate
some charmingly quaint models on which
flowers are lavishly used.

The wanted materials for dress and
general purpose millinery as indicated
this month comprise real French horse-
hair braid in combination with taffeta;
flower appliques in shaded tones;
French timbo handmade of finely woven

straw closely resembling the Bankok of
last year; fine Swiss mthair in combin-
ation with cire Chantilly lace and beads;
Yaak lace; hand sewn Milan straws;
Kandy cloths, all kinds of *visca, both
plain and iridescent; lisere braids. Soft
woolen fabric braids and Yedda straws
are much used for sports models, which
this season are being developed in
shapes which approximate the dress
types of last year. Triple crepe softly
arranged over a French willow shape
makes dress hats of very effective
charm.

The trimmings on better hats include
hackle breasts, long ostrich flues, Bioux
feathers, wide moire ribbons, huge fab-
ric roses, ospreys, lace veils over
flowers and bead outlines, cut jet cab-
ochons, wing effects in all colors, glazed
and transparent fruits, swathed os-
trich, and a multitude of celluloid pins,
mounts and fancies.

Montreal Models

The show rooms of the leading Mcnt-
real houses are now filled with late
Spring models, mention of which indi-
cate the trend of style.

The new "shredded wheat" straw in a
pale onion color was effectively illus-
trated in a smart turban in draped ef-
fect. Glazed leaves of the same shade
were caught oetween the folds.

A small hat of shiny haircloth in
black was brightened by the use of a
bird developed in black and pearl

spangles placed on the side brim.

A dashing model of black haircloth
with sharply upturned brim off the face,
was faced with an upstanding edge of
match-sticks in white and black. A very
narrow back was a feature of this shape.

A snug little visor front model was de-
veloped in glazed braid in black with a
white beaded motif as the sole trim-
ming placed on the top of the crown.

A black tricorne in the new small
shape had its back section faced with a
handmade applique of taffeta flowers,
the edges of which were pinked out ir-
regularly. The tones of the flowers were
in the new periwinkle shades, varying
from a deep fuchsia to a pastel pink. A
small circular veil fell softly over this
shape extending about an inch below
the hat all round.

A Vasselin-Villetard model seen re-
cently was of fine hand sewn milan com-
bined with a brim of soft satin, broader
at the sides. The entire brim was veil-
ed in Yaak lace which extended over
the edge and lace wings were wired to
stand out at either side. Two cut jet
cabochons finished the trimming.

A superb model matron's hat from
Hyland was developed in soft white
hackle breasts which formed the high
crown and a narrow rolled side-brim
slightly shaded the face. Long black
ostrich flues gave the necessary sweep
to this toque which was admirably suit-
ed to a woman of mature years.

Colored facings upon leghorn hats
are spoken of already for summer wear,
and it is expected that English sports
hats will be in large demand for the
entire season.

Draped sash-end turban made of fancy
navy straw allover, fringed off into ends
over each ear. A novelty ornament of
white celluloid is upstanding in front. —
Imported by Debenhams Limited, of
Montreal.

A Chicago retail firm, the Fair,
has adopted an interesting new
method of merchandising its base-
ment goods. The entire basement
is now given the status of a sep-
arate store, with its own selling
and buying forces, which are ab-
solutely independent of any up-
stairs department. Instead of hav-
ing one buyer for an upstairs de-
partment who can dispose of odds
and ends as well as goods below
the standard, in the basement,
there is now one buyer for each
upstairs department and one for
each basement department. Each
basement man is absolutely in-
dependent and is not required to
buy any stock from the upstairs
buyers unless he sees fit to do so.
This, it is claimed, will soon lead
to better merchandising methods
and mtore cereful buying in the
various upstairs departments.

Dry Goods Review

MILLINERY

Millinery Department can Cater Successfully

To Exclusive and Medium Priced Trade

Well Known Expert in Promoting Sales in Millinery Depart-
ment Explains How This Can be Done — Requires Skill and Ex-
perience — Price Not The Most Important Consideration — Things
to Avoid in Selling Hats — Service of Specialized Nature Really

Counts

THE retailing of millinery has un-
dergone many subtle changes of
late seasons, according to those
who have studied the subject closely for
many years. Where once a store consid-
ered it necessary to boast of its large
workroom with a staff of employees num-
bering above a score, its heavy stocks of
trimmings and materials, and its well
assorted range of shapes becoming to
all faces, the contrary now rules.
Whereas it was once considered more
correct to purchase an untrimmed hat
for economy's sake, selecting the trim-
ming according to the heaviness of
Miladi's purse, nowadays, it is the most
exclusive trade which desires its hats
made to order and the rank and file are
more than content with the enormous
selection of trimmed models which are
continually on display in all the millin-
ery salons.

Passing of Workroom

According to the merchandise mana-
ger of a large store in Ottawa the work-
room today is passing from our midst,
and is no longer essential. It is practic-
ally impossible for the average store to
make profit on a workroom since the
loss on materials which are not used
is greatly increased since the old days
when workrooms were the rule rather
than the exception. To keep an aver-
age workroom supplied with even a
moderate quantity of the usual wanted
materials including satins, silks, nets,
ribbons, wire, buckram, velvet, etc., not
to speak of the no less considerable
range of expensive trimmings, would re-
quire an investment of far more money
than the actual return would warrant.
Whether the woman of today has learned
to prefer the ready trimmed hat because
she must take it, 'faut de mieux,' or
whether because hat manufacturers have
succeeded in turning cut millinery which
is smarter and more individual than the
average modiste's product, who can
say? The fact remains, — the store
workroom is passing.

Pursuing data upon the subject, a
staff member of Dry Goods Review re-
cently interviewed the manager of the
millinery department in the A. J. Frie-
man store of Ottawa, Mr. Kirtley, who
is well known throughout Canada as an
expert in promoting sales in this de-
partment. Mr. Kirtley has had wide ex-
perience in all the leading cities of Can-
ada, and speaks of conditions generally,
not as they appear locally in Ottawa.

'"Can a millinery department cater
successfully to both the medium priced

trade and to the exclusive customer?"
was the question asked.

"It can," was Mr. Kirtley's reply, "but
it requires considerable skill and experi-
ence. It must never be forgotten that
it is the label on the hat that enhances
its real worth in the eyes of its possess-
or. If a woman is wearing a French
model which is signed across the inside of
the crown by a world famous name, she
feels such a sense of pride that she can
scarcely resist the temptation of show-
ing it to her friends. If alongside of
Maria Guy or Reboux there is also
attached a little tag bearing the name
of the local store, the glamour of the
imported model and its reputation for
style is cast over the department which
sold the hat. French hats are commonly
supposed to be expensive luxuries but
they undoubtedly give distinction to the
department which features them even if
they have to be sacrificed later on in the
season. At the same time they help to
build up a reputation for style and ex-
clusiveness which can do no harm to the
regular trade.

"We are finding out," continued Mr.
Kirtley, "that price is not so tremen-
dously important after all as we used
to think it was. I believe that price is
of secondary importance to the vast ma-
jority of women, notwithstanding their
own declarations to the contrary. Style
and becomingness are far more import-
ant factors in encouraging women to
buy, and granted that the department
can offer a good variety to select from,
it should never be necessary to base its
reputation upon prices alone. After all,
a hat makes or mars a woman's appear-
ance more quickly than any other item
of apparel, and the wrong type of hat
can actually change and alter a person-
ality to an extraordinary degree. I
should insist that hats be shown to a
customer entirely with regard to their
suitability to her type rather than be-
cause she does not care to pay more
than $4.98.

Service Really Counts

"When it comes down to a fine point,"
explained Mr. Kirtley, "it is really the
kind of service which the department
renders to the customer which deter-
mines the sort of clientele it will attract.
Cheap service brings only cheap trade.
Specialized service attracts particular
customers who appreciate extra effort
made on their behalf. They are willing to
pay for this additional courtesy and su-
perior knowledge on the part of the
staff, who in many cases are specialists

in the subject. To my own staff I usual-
ly recommend the following rules with
regard to selling. First, never ask the
customer how much she wants to pay
She would invariably tell the saleslady
less than the actual amount she had in
mind, yet she would feel uncomfortable
at having to disclose the fact that she
is unprepared to purchase an expensive
model. Rather show a good style first
and judge from the customer's remarks
whether to show her more expensive or
less costly millinery. Second, do not
show too many models at once If th"
saleslady i s at all expert she will know
instinctively the type of hat the custom-
er requires, whether lines or soft ef-
fects, and by dint of tactful questioning-
she can elicit information regarding the
suitable colors to accompany costumes
A mistake commonly made by customers
is to try on a dress hat when wearing
an old blouse or frock which is totally
different in style to the gown which will
be worn with the hat in question. It is
in most cases well nigh impossible to
achieve the right effect with a hat when
it is tried on with the wrong sort of
dress. Few hats are suitable to wear
with several costumes. Third, be pleas-
ant to the customer and secure her con-
fidence and good-will at all costs, but do
not determine to sell her a hat if you die
in the attempt. She may take a hat but
it will probably be the last one she will
ever select in the store."

Early Spring Season

Mr. Kirtley inclines to the belief that
the Spring millinery season should be
started as early as possible. As early as
the last of January this year his own
department blossomed forth with vividly
colored spring models, due to the far
that winter stocks were disposed of
earlier than usual. It should not be
necessary to wait for the calendar to
show new millinery, far better to keep
an eye on the weather and begin to at-
tract customers by interesting advertis-
ing and pretty window displays.

The millinery department in the Frie-
man store is located upon the first floor
up and occupies more than 5,000 square
feet or practically half the entire floor
space. It is placed well to the front
where the lighting is excellent, while
overhead quantities of incandescent
lights swing from chains, shaded in in-
direct globes. Small compartments are
railed off here and there to display the
more exclusive models which are shown
upon gilded strands in a French pattern,
(Continued on page 63)

MILLINERY

Dry Goods Review

The Fisk Spring showings

of millinery are now in progress

If you cannot visit

CHICAGO

you will find a Complete . Display at

NEW YORK— 411 Fifth Avenue

also
SAINT PAUL— Saint Paul Hotel

The Fiskhat reputation for "Style and
Quality Assured" — Fiskhat national ad-
vertising — and prompt deliveries, com-
bine to make a wonderful proposition
for the dealer.

D. B. FISK & CO., Creators of Correct SMiMnery

225 N. Wabash Avenue, Chicago : : 411 Fifth Avenue, New York

"Fiskhat" national advertising for 19Z2 starts in March issues of leading women's publications

Spring Styles are Ready

Millinery Frames

Always the Newest in Stock

From Best Makers at Best Prices

Milliners everywhere are
making up Spring stock.
We have an assortment of
hat frames that will permit
milliners to make the most
stunning of hats.
Also the newest in trim-
mings and materials in stock.
Letter orders promptly filled
and poods sent on approval.

C. H. STARR

Wholesale Millinery

Adelaide 3439
77 YORK ST. TORONTO

We're Ready

with the best and most complete showing
of millinery merchandise we have ever had
in our showrooms.

Fruits

of Cellophane

Baronet Satin

Iridescent effects in combination with

Lacquered Flowers

Smart designs in new calcamined

effects

Glycerined Ostrich

Select Range of Pattern Hats

Bright Colors Attractive Prices

'gffif* 1 Order Early

DOMINION OSTRICH FEATHER CO.

Limited

78 Wellington St. West - Toronto

Representatives :

H. B. Taylor, Mappin Bldg., Montreal.

J. G. Martin, Hammond Bldg-., Winnipeg.

Geo. Strachan, Welton Block. Vancouver.

Dry Goods Review

MILLINERY

Wvft&B*

feg lCa ^ i, ^^faa 0JS2A

SfS^"

Spring
Opening

continuing throughout Feb-
ruary, features a line of Model
Hats that are the crowning ef-
fort of our designers.

There is just that note of indi-
viduality and finish to these
creations that attracts you and
satisfies your customer.

We invite your inspection

G. GOULDING U SONS

55 Wellington St. West, Toronto

Winnipeg
66 King Street

Ottawa
236-237 Jackson BlJg.

Hamilton
2Sy 2 Jokn St. N.

,Jk

feF

DRY GOODS REVIEW

More Circulation

■No Increase in Rates!

BY UNDERTAKING to fill, for their unexpired terms, all paid-up subscrip-
tions to FARMERS' MAGAZINE— which ceased publication with its issue
of February 2nd— MACLEAN'S MAGAZINE has thus added to its list at one
stroke approximately 20,000 paid-in-advance subscribers.

Through the general use of the automobile, the
farmer has become to-day practically a sub-
urbanite. Canadian farmers of the class who
have been subscribing to FARMERS' MAGA-
ZINE are in a position to buy automobiles,
pianos, phonographs, and all other articles or
conveniences that make for comfort and a higher
standard of living.

Besides being consumers of the best grades of
merchandise, they are to-day taking the keenest
interest in politics and all public and economic
questions.

FARMERS' MAGAZINE and MACLEAN'S
MAGAZINE have been the outstanding mediums
in Canada, serving separately the rural and urban
fields. The decision to discontinue FARMERS'
MAGAZINE and to fill the subscriptions with
MACLEAN'S, is the result of the maturity of
a conviction that the subscribers to our farm
magazine are ready now to demand and appre-
ciate a general national magazine like MAC-
LEAN'S in order to have the information and
entertainment which they desire — a magazine
that will furnish them with good fiction, political
articles and Canadian national news of a char-
acter not found in the farm papers or news-
papers. No change is being made in the physical
make-up of MACLEAN'S MAGAZINE, or in the
character of its editorial contents.

95,000 Gross Circulation

Rate Based on 70,000 A.B.C.

The addition of FARMERS' MAGAZINE subscription list to MACLEAN'S circulation, after all
arrears and duplications are eliminated, commencing with February 15th issue, gives MACLEAN'S
MAGAZINE at once a total circulation of more than Ninety-Five Thousand copies each issue.

This gives a big general covering of town and city circulation, plus a highly selected farm circulation.
It provides the tremendous influence of the "leadership" families in every city, town and village right
across the Dominion, together with the most prosperous and progressive farmers in each trading
territory; and constitutes a service which is not equalled or even approximated by any other general
publication in Canada.

95,000 National magazine circulation in Canada, on a per capita basis, is equal to at least 1,500,000
in the United States.

MACLEAN'S is the outstanding,
big, covering medium in Canada.

The line rate, for the present, remains at 70 cents

First and
Fifteenth of
Entry Month

Most Talked of
Publication
In Canada

'CANADAS national magazine

The MacLean Publishing Company, Limited, 143 University Avenue, Toronto, Ont.

Dry Goods Review

KNITTED GOODS

% _yor Style, Quality and Value

Monarch-Knit

SWEATERS HOSIERY
KNITTING YARNS

MONARCH-KNIT products have attained a reputation for quality which
we take great care to preserve.

It is a point of settled policy with us to use only the best quality of mater-
ial, and to maintain a system of rigid inspection throughout each process of
manufacture.

Watch for the new

Monarch Style Book

We are now completing Book No. 8 of "Art in Knitting Monarch Yarns."
Monarch style books have always been in great demand and No. 8 will be
no exception. It is full of the very newest styles, attractively illustrated,
and with full and clear instructions for knitting with our new yarns, as
well as with Floss, Dove, Down and Butterfly. Send us your reservation
order now.

The Monarch Knitting Co., Limited

Head Office: Dunnville, Ont.

Factories: Dunnville, St. Catharines and St. Thomas, Ontario

KNITTED GOODS

Dnj Goods Review

Refinement of Style and Finish Feature

Models of Montreal Knit Goods Manufacturers

Do Not Believe That Canadian Trade Wants the Embellishments
Shown by American Houses in Bathing Suits — The New Square
Neck Line a Good Feature — The Roll Top Hosiery — Some of The

Children's Models

MONTREAL manufacturers are
not in favour of embroidering
women's bathing suits of knit-
ted fabrics, which is now being talked
of in the United States. On the con-
trary, although one of the biggest sea-
sons in the history of the knit goods
trade is anticipated, little effort will be
directed towards such embellishment,
the reason given being that embroidery
is unsuitable upon knitted cotton or
woolen materials unless the bathing suit
is destined merely for beach wear, in
which case, it will be made in all prob-
ability of satin or crepe fabrics. As
there are no ultra-fashionable beach
resorts in Canada similar to Palm
Beach or the California resorts in the
States, Canadian makers will continue
to confine their efforts to staple lines.

Many refinements of style and finish
are, however, to be found in the differ-
ent ranges of bathing suits for women
and children as typified by the showing
of Spring models in Montreal show
rooms. For example, the one-piece
model suit is now featured exclusively,
in colors which will not attract attention
to the fair bather but that will be serv-
iceable and becoming. There is extra
roominess in the legs of the new suits,
reinforcements at the crotch give great-
er strength for swimming and armholes
are finished with a new "crescent" sleeve
or shield which stretches in any direc-
tion by reason of being cut upon a bias
strip and set on in a curve left open at
the upper end.

New Neck Fastening

Another good feature is the new
square neck-line, the lower front corners
of which are slashed and fastened
down with snap fasteners. The slash-
es give plenty of extra room in slipping
the suit over the head and prevent the
stretching or tearing of the opening as
is the case with ordinary suits. Besides
the square or Dutch neck is a be-
coming outline and is rather unusual in
bathing suits. A scarlet knitted isuit
was piped in black braid, little V-shap-
ed insets of the black being introduced
at the sides of the short skirt. Navy
blue was effectively used in the same
way with the red, while black and
white formed still another smart con-
trast. With these suits should be
featured the new roll-top hose, which,
while primarily intended for wear by
youngsters up to 14 years of age, are
made up to size 9*£ and are thus ex-
tremely smart as a bathing accessory
for grown-ups.

Faahion'a latest demand is for fringe on sweaters. This one is adapted for
sports wear as it is light in weight and comes just to the hips. The hose in
this illustration should be very much appreciated by women who like to wear
golf stockings and to have their knees covered at the same time. These fold
back showing the stripe in the regular way and come several inches above
the knee. Sweater and hose are in olive green and white. — Shown by Lavoib
Knitters. Peterboro, Ontario.

Dry Goods Review

KNI.TTED GOODS

The "Rollette" is the latest thing in
rolled top hosiery, this being merely a
three quarter length hose with a cuffed
top, permanently turned down. These
are shown in all the leading staple col-
ors and bright shades. In wool hose
they are particularly good for early
spring wear.

Juvenile Styles Plentiful

Knitted goods for children are quite
plentiful this season insofar as novel-
ties are concerned. One of the most
charming novelties noticed for some
time was a new style of knitted jumper
dress for kiddies of three upwards. For
either boys or girls there is shown the
Oliver Twist or regulation overall effect
in either bloomers or straight skirts to
be worn with a little white sweater
shirt finished with pearl buttons. The
jumper effect is cleverly copied from the
garments of older people and is both
smart and effective for little boys and
girls. Bright blues and browns, etc.,
are the colors favoured in conjunction
with white for the upper part.

In children's lines one notices that the
apparel of grown-ups is reproduced in
miniature for the younger generation,
and the same attention to details in
making fabric, design and trimming is
given to these little garmants as to
those of their elders. Dear little slip-
over frocks of sensible coloring, just
right for playtime or school days are
shown by one Montreal firm, the trim-
ming of which consists of delicate pin-
stripes of contrasting wool. A cord
girdle generally finishes the waist and
the neck is round, but not too low,
while the sleeves may be either long or
short as desired.

A middy dress for a little girl of
four was developed in jade green wool
finished with a sailor collar and laced
up at the front. Shell pink was also
a favoured style designed after the
middy pattern. Older children can wear
tarns to match their frocks and later it
is expected that capes will be offered as
is the case with the grown ups.
Children's Suits

Bathing suits for children mow more
diversity of treatment than lmial, this
spring. It is now recognized that the
knitted suit is better for them than is
the fancy affair made of silk or mohair,
and to this end the Montreal makers
are showing a pretty style for young
girls of ten or so, made of tangerine
knitted fabric or sky blue, trimmed with
bands around the neck, sleeves and
knees of black, while a braided wool
girdle encircles the waist.

For the larger children the bright
colors are used more for trimmings, the
body of the suits being of navy blue or
black. A smart leaf-green suit of
knitted cotton showed white inserts of
the same fabric on the skirt and round
the sleeve caps. This combination is
said to be very strong for next summer.

In men's styles the all wool suit in
black trimmed with a very narrow
banding of purple and gold is consider-
ed good.

As regards the possible vogue for

artificial silk sweaters or other gar-
ments next summer, opinions are vari-
ed. One firm stated to Dry Goods Re-
view that they were now working on
orders for these silk sweators similar to
those worn last season but which can be

retailed at less than $15. which it is
thought will appeal to the popular pric-
ed trade. These will show a pretty open-
work pattern and a fringe edge, though
not as extreme as was .leatured last
season.

"1922 IS HOMESPUN YEAR."

Novelty homespun is one of the most popular fabrics for skirtings. Th<>,

skirt shown here is checked in black and white. The fringe is also a big

feature for sports wear. — Shown by Hawthorne Mills, Limttko,

Carleton Place, Ontario.

KNI.TTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

A Year of Knit Goods Novelties?

Manufacturer States That Former Policy of Showing Samples
Twice a Year Will be Discontinued and he Will Show Every
Month — Knitted Dress in Feather Weight Mohair Yarn to be
Leader — Prices Will Compete With Ready-to-Wear — Some of

The Novelties Described

E ARE THROUGH with staple
knit goods," remarked a
prominent knit goods man to
Dry Goods Review this mjonth. "Wie
believe the coming season is going to be
the biggest sports summer yet, and the
public will want novelties of every kind
in order to be correct. Where the
greater part of our output used to be on
sweaters and plain staple lines of bath-
ing suits, etc, now we feature nothing
but new ideas every month. We have
discontinued our past policy of showing
samples twice a year, and we shall now
bring out something new each month,
working ahead of time and only showing
samples when the entire output is prac-
tically ready. Then we can be in a posi-
tion to ship goods at a minute's notice
in larger quantities than would be poss-
ible under the former method."

This man emphasized the fact that
the retail trade, especially the larger
stores in the more important Canadian
cities, are anticipating a big season in
fancy knit outerwear, and are bending
every nerve to clearing out present
stocks of staples and last season's goods
in order to be in a position to feature
a good assortment of novelties as the
Spring season opens. It should not be
assumed, however, that the Canadian
trade will accept the more bizarre nov-
elties and designs which are now being
offered in New York. Far from it. On
the contrary, the smart Canadian wom-
an will continue to demand quieter ef-
fects always in good taste, both in color
combinations, designs and style.

Then again, another remarkable change
is recorded in the matter of price, both
retail and wholesale. The makers of
smart knitted' outerwear recognize the
fact that the knitted dress, costume, or
coat has to compete to a certain extent
with the ready-to-wear garment put
forth by the cloak and suit and the dress
trades. Therefore it has been their aim
to perfect their knitted wear in such a
manner as to make it more attractive in
appearance and less expensive than the
ordinary garment, and this ambition has
been fully realized at the present time.
When it is remembered that a smart
knitted outfit including frock, cape or
scarf and hat can be purchased by the
consumer for less than $35 it can readi-
ly be understood that the ready-to-wear
department stands in keen competition
with the knit goods section as has really
never been the case previously.

Knitted Frocks

In discussing new goods with various
leading Quebec manufacturers, Dry
Goods Review is informed that the knit-

ted dress in feather weight mohair
yarns is to be a leader. This type of
frock is offered in a wide diversity of
charming effects and colors, including
all white, all black, navy blue, fawn,
brown, etc., in nearly every case, the el-
aboration being an overcheck in one or
more color contrasts. An all-white
frock of chiffon-weight mohair was
shown developed in a plain ribbed finish
with pin stripes of black wool set on
about four inches apart vertically, while
contrasting cross stripes were applied in
three rows from the knee downwards.
The neckline is cut on the bateau or
Jenny effect with a hign standing ex-
tension in contrast. Occasionally the
neckline is cut in deep V shape, which
undoubtedly is more becoming to wear,
if not as new. The waist line is not
fitted to any extent but is retained by a
loose string girdle of knitted mohair,
fastened in front with a pearl slide. The
sleeves are elbow length in general, an
occasional long sleeve being found.

The frocks of heavier yarn are also
exceedingly attractive in navy blue with
the same over-check stripings of pillar
box red and fawn superimposed. The
same effect is carried out in separate
skirts with short box coats exactly like
the prevailing style in "chicken's" gar-
ments for spring. The necks are fin-
ished with the small turn-down collar
and a jaunty little bow of scarlet wool.

An all-black frock of medium weight
yarn was relieved by deep inset portions
upon sleeves of white mohair, while the
bateau collar was also of the same.
This chiffon weight mohair is success-
fully used to develop dainty little pull-
over blouses with all kinds of novel col-
lar effects, ranging from a simple little
scarf, knotted carefully about the V
shaped outline, and finished with a pearl
slide, to the smart Peter Pan or Puritan
collar, which together with the turn-up
cuffs, is piped with black braid or edged
with black wool. These blouses are
finished either as plain pullovers, fitting
the figure somewhat, or as Balkan
middies, the lower edge being finished by
a broad band or turned up after the
same effect. Such a blouse as this is
delightfully appropriate for wear with
the sleeveless type of jumper dress
which is predicted a successful Spring
season. A scarlet jumper design of
knitted jersey was designed with an ob-
long front opening and deeply cut arm-
holes through which the white wool
blouse showed to the best effect. These
jumpers will continue to be worn with
capes and tarn o'shanters to match, or
else with a wide scarf when the snow
goes and Spring is really here.

Far from being defunct from a style
standpoint, the cape is to be revived in
all sorts of novel ways for next summer,
although no samples are ready as yet.
By March it is expected that the cape
will be shown to the trade in its smart-
est forms and no knitted dress will be
really complete without its accompany-
ing cape wrap. These capes will be en-

A clever bathing suit sititable for both
the beach-comber and the genuine swim-
mer. The trunks and upper part are in
one piece and the skirt fastens on the
three buttons shown in the illustration,
giving a neat short-waisted appearance.
The skirt is black and the rest, rose em-
broidered in black. The pocket is far the
key to the bath-house. This su.it ansu'ers
the call for something which will not
give way at the waist, as some do wh°n
the parts are sewn together. — Shown
by the Monarch Knitting Co., Dunn-
ville, Ontario.

Dry Goods Review

KNITTED GOODS

tirely different from those which receiv-
ed such an apathetic welcome from the
trade last season. Developed out of
feather-weight yarns, such as the mo-
hair, and lacy in the extreme, they will
offer the last word of lightness and
smartness. They will constitute the
universal costume for country and in-
formal city wear next summer and are
assured of instant approval already.

Tuxedo to Have Competitor

Insofar as the regulation sweater is
concerned, the more exclusive designers
of knit goods declare that the tuxedo is
on the wane, that is to say, that buyers
are on the lookout for novelty goods
and are no longer interested in the ultra
conservative line sweater. To begin with,
the Canadian silhouette has now fully
fallen in with that which has prevailed
in the United States for the past year,
and where formerly the Canadian
women looked askance upon the pull-
over style as being too extreme for her
type or too unbecoming in line, now
fully three-quarters of the demand is
for the "over-the-head" garment. It is
true that many new varieties have been
evolved which camouflage the slip-over
into a very becoming garment even to
the stout figure, and with the tendency
to feature narrow pinstripes in vertical
effect, in contrasting color upon all the
newer models, every figure does appear
more slender than it is in reality. The
only model shown which in any manner
resembled the tuxedo style was short in
length, loose in fit, and had a vestee of
the same yarn set at the opening. A
jaunty turn-down collar however, was
used at the neck and there was no turn-
back effect whatever to face the front.
Crocheted buttons or a string tie at the
neck were the sole elaborations.

Where the tuxedo reigned supreme
the cape will now be in demand, it is
thought, and the pullover will be the
ideal garment for golfing, tennis or all
other sports of an active nature which
require snugly fitting garments per-
mitting much freedom of action.

Sleeveless Sports Coats

Many more novelties are shown by
other Montreal manufacturers, which in-
clude a smart sleeveless style of pillar-
box red yarn striped with white arti-
ficial silk in wide barred effect. A
plain sash of the red yarn finished the
waist. When worn over white the effect
is extremely smart. Another very ef-
fective little sweater was of cardinal
wool cut very short but with the lower
edge Van Dyked into deep points all
round. The short sleeves and tuxedo
front were of pearl gray brushed wool
in a furry finish.

Other Novelties

Silk and wool mixed combined to form
a very striking model in American
Beauty shade knitted in a loose fancy
stitch. The collar was of white and the
edges all round were buttonholed as
though by hand. Another very unusual
novelty was in a "Peggy O'Neill" coatee
of black and white wool, knitted in a

curious twisted effect combining the
two colors in a mottled finish. This
model was hip length and finished with
a tuxedo front and short sleeves. A
Balkan middy sweater in pullover style

of fawn wool had its collar developed out
of white brushed wool which closely re-
sembles the new Krepe-Knit fabric, most
unusual and smart. This was a child's
model.

Complete srdt of jersey cloth made for children up to seven years. It is
light in weight and washable. Made in navy, brown, green and heather mix-
tures. — Shown by the Albion Knitting Co., Petekboro, Ontario.

KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

Is Tuxedo to Have Rival in Pullover

Question Raised by Action of American Makers in Promoting

Pullover — Knitted Goods Have Had Unusual Advertising by

Consumer Press — Some of The New Bathing Models — Silk and

Wool Combinations in Outer Garments

THKKE is reason to believe that the
Tuxedo will have as a rival the pull-
>ver or slip-on sweater this Spring
and Summer. American makers of knitted
goods are stressing the pullover again.
One prominent Canadian manufacturer
believes that the heavy stocks of these
garments which some mills have held
over from last year and even from the
year before, is responsible for the stress
which is being placed on this style now.
The trade 'would not buy anything but
Tuxedos last Spring at any price and
many manufacturers had not prepared
for such a heavy season in these and
were consequently left with thousands
of pullovers.

The best sweater in the pullover
style for this Summer will be one with
the very deep V neck. This is more be-
coming than the old style and more
easily worn with a lace yoke. The> j
will not be as many sweaters of one
color as in other seasons, designers de-
clare. Women want combinations of
colors this year, not only in sweaters
but in sports sui's, bathing suits, hose
and wraps.

Unusual Publicity for Knitted Goods

Two manufactuers of worsted yarns,
one in Peterborough and one in Toron-
to, say that the great publicity which
consumer papers, not interested except
in a general way, have been giving to
knitted^ goods, has already been felt.
The Ladies' Home Journal, the Pictorial
Review and one or two Canadian papers
have stressed them considerably this
year. Sentiment is better than it ever
was. The consumer and the trade are
looking for their Spring and Summer
supplies in knitted wear, just as they
are for ready-to-wear and millinery. A
year ago, travellers said that retailers
were very much afraid that the vogue
was only transient and that last year
was not the time to take a chance. They
do not discuss the possible dangers this
Spring. Most buyers are very partic-
ular as to quality and workmanship.
They are on the lookout for something
new and are not looking for the cheap-
est lines.

One manufacturer who has built m> a
splendid business in a little more than
a year by his steady attempt to give
service, says that the trade is ordering
all the time but that their policy of
buying from hand to mouth last year
was found to have so many merits that
many continued i* without any mone-
tary reason. He thinks that manufac-
turers should not be discouraged with
small orders, for, in the long run. mer-
chants are buying just as much or more

than they did by '.he old system. He
believes that manufacturers should pre-
pare for a season of this by stocking
enough ahead to ship immediately on
receipt of orders. The trade have be-
come so discouraged with the months
of waiting which have inevitably follow-
ed orders during the last few years,
that they are ready to notice a man
who can ship immediately.

The demand for yarns tends toward
the vivid hues t'.iis Spring. There is
less call for black and white than there
was last year though these may come
back lateo- on. At present the trade
want hand-knit ing in burnt orange,
Harding b'ue and peacock bliie.

A sweater designed for warmth as well
as appearance. The checks in black and
white on the reverse and at bottom of
sweater have been made on a special
machine. Dome fasteners fasten the rev-
eres down when worn in the tuxedo style
and loops and buttons allow the sweater
to be buttoned up at the throat for win-
ter sports.' — Shown by the Cornell
Knitting Company, Peterboro, Ont. .

One manufacturer is doing a splendid
business in brush wools These he sells
by the yard and in different widths. He
has them as narrow as two inches and
as wide as twenty-four inches. There
has been a splendid demand for these
for collars and cuffs in suits and sweat-,
ers. Not only garment manufacturers
but the public are glad to find a knitted
material which may be cut and sewn
on, like ordinary piece goods.
New Bathing Suits

All the knitting mills say that they do
not intend to lose business this Summer
as they did last year, by not having
bathing suits. They say that those who
had them feel no reason to be grateful
.0 the trade for clearing them out but
1o the public who forced the sale of
them.

Most of the bathing suits are made
up in two color combinations, the con-
trast being shown not only with trim-
mings but by making the parts in dif-
ferent colors. For example, one suit
has a black skirt and upper part with
green trunks and sleeves. Thei strap
is being used in bathing suits for this
year also although it does not seem as
serviceable a garment as the one with
the surplice shoulder.

Trade Not Buying Locally

One manufactrurer who is doing a
splendid business in ladies' and chil-
dren's wear, says that he can sell every-
where in Canada but in the towns with-
in a radius of twenty-five miles where
his mill is. Not long ago he picked up
a sweater in a retail store in his vic-
inity. He asked where it was bought
and was told in Monteral. It was one
of a lot which he had sent to a whole-
sale house in Montreal. The retailer
had told him some weeks previously
that he liked the garments he was ob-
taining from Toronto and Montreal
better than the ones this manufacturer
had to offer. He says that the mer-
chants who fail to buy at home, are
losing excellent opportunities of help-
ing themselves by giving work to their
customers. They should try and forget
the old buying: policy that the best
sroods are obtained! farthest from home.
Moreover the additional expenses caus-
ed by handling and shipping should be
taken into account.

Silk and Wool Good

There is a call for silk and wool com-
binations in outer apparel. At the mo-
ment it is very good in almost every
line. The effect of silk on wool ans-
wers the appeal for combinations of
colors and there is very little expense
(Continued on page 63)

Dru Goods Revieiv

KNITTED GOODS

Believe. Wool Hose Strong for Fall

Manufacturers Have Faith That Sports Styles Will Be Popular
For Next Season — Salespeople Should Study Manufacture So
They Can Sell Better— Soft Tones Are Favored For Fall Wear-
New Hose For The Lumberman

"Nowadays, knitted wool hose plays
such a prominent part in the sale of
knitted goods, that salespeople should
be conversant with the salient points in
regard to their care," declares a man
who is making a splendid line of all-
wool hose. "Ten or fifteen years ago,"
he says, "when wool was worn much
more extensively in underwear and in
stockings than it is now, women under-
stood how to prevent shrinking. Their
mothers taught them. To-day they know
a great deal about silks but very little
about wools. Clerks who understand
something about them, can do much to
help both the retailer and the manufac-
turer in promoting their use."

Wool fibre consists of a hollow cyl-
inder, which is filled with oil. When one
considers that there are 500 corusca-
tions to the square inch of material,
some idea may be obtained of the num-
ber of these hollow fibres in an ordin-
ary wool stocking. These cylinders are
filled with animal oil, which gives
warmth and elasticity to the wool. When
the oil dries out, the cylinders collapse
and this collapse causes the shrinkage
of the article.

There are two principal causes of the
drying up of this oil. One is hot water.
Water hotter than the hands can stand,
is too hot for wool. The other is alkali.
Cheap, alkaline soaps, break down the
molecules in the oil and cause the col-
lapse of the fibre."

Hosiery for Fall

Nearly all the manufacturers of knit-
ted goods in Canada, are laying special
emphasis on wool hose for next fall and
winter. They have faith in the duration
of sports lines and of hose in particular.
It is not probable that heavy buying will
begin this month however, as buyers
seem in doubt as to the stability of
prices. There is a great deal of shopping
being done and low-priced goods are
getting a certain amount of prominence
in most centres.

There is a general feeling of confi-
dence in wool and silk mixtures and in
cotton and silk mixtures. With raw silk
at a price which is still considered high,
there is every reason to believe that the
public will be satisfied with mixtures.
The lightweight mixture hose will be
very much better than the heavy lines.
The bulkiness of the latter is very much
against them and of course they are
much higher in price.

For women's sport hose, manufactur-
ers are favoring the soft tones, especial-
ly the dull blues, grays, light-fawn,

sand and tan. Some are em-
broidered in such a way that
while they enhance the value of the
whole costume they do not clash. Sales-
women who are interested, have splen-
did opportunities these days of instruct-
ing customers in the importance of
hosiery in the general color schemes.
Many women seen on the golf links and
on the ice these days ruin their outfits
with the hosiery they wear. A traveler
who has made a study of costuming the
sportwoman declares that she should
wear hose that contain both the color of
the suit worn and of the shoes as well.
If her shoes are tan, her hose should
have brown or tan stripes, and if they
are black, she should select stockings
which have at least a black clock.

One Canadian mill, at any rate, is try-
ing to give Canadians the same hose as
may be obtained in the old country.
These are made of long-fibred English
wools. They are fashioned and fit the
ankle like silk hose, although they are
of heavy weight. The top of the hose has
85 s'^chP 1 -'- these drop to 58 at the nar-
rowest point.

Footlets for Lumbermen

The salesman for an Ontario mill is
carrying a footlet to be worn with socks

by lumbermen who need additional
warmth. The trade have not yet seen
them but the large lumber companies
have placed splendid orders for them.
This footlet idea is one which originat-
ed with a desire to prevent bulk around
the ankle, which is always the case when
several pair are worn. These come just
to the boot-top. They are only about
two-thirds the price of the whole sock.

Underwear Lines Not So Active

Retailers and wholesalers agree that
there is no time like the present to make
a study of underwear needs. The revival;
of business should bring with it the ap-
plication of all the lessons which manu-
facturers have learned about the mak-
ing of undergarments. The public want
first of all comfort, which means fit,
then price, and finally decoration. Man-
ufacturers who are working along these
lines cannot go far astray because they
are offering merchants saleable gar-
ments. : . I 1]

The Phoenix Novelty Co., has moved
to larger quar.iers at the corner of Dun-
can & Adelaide St., Toronto. The new
factory is bright and airy and well
adapted for the fine neckwear made by
this company.

Two lovely scavfs for sports wear. They are of silk on one side and brushed'
ivool on the other. The scarf on the left has a bright red ground with
stripes of black and white. The other is black and white. The lustre of the
silk is very effective. — Shown by the Monarch Knitting Company,

Dunnville, Ontario.

KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

Featuring Fancy Hosiery for Easter

Will Be Important Accessory For Spring Wear — New Colors
And Fancy Embroideries Shown By Montreal Importers — The
"Nothing At All" Shade— Embroidered Anklets Is One Of The
Newest Things On The Market.

«TTTE BELIEVE that Easter 1922
V/V/ is going- to see the biggest
fancy hosiery seasons ever ex-
perienced in the trade," said a Montreal
hosiery and fancy goods importer to
Dry Goods Review this month. "Every-
thing points to a tremendous demand for
fancy goods of this description, includ-
ing heathers, colored hose in silks and
mixtures, clocked effects and openwox'k
novelties. The demand just now is for
either heavy wool or ribbed silk sports
hose or the finest of sheer thread silks
elaborated in unusual ways. There is no
other line of accessories to feminine
dress, with the possible exception of
gloves, which is so completely confined
to fancy numbers to the exclusion of the
regular staple lines."

This authority believes that we shall
continue to see heather mixtures worn
until next fall at least, and that once the
vogue for woolen stockings wanes with
the advent of spring days, the heavy
ribbed silk varieties will replace them for
sports wear and for accompanying the
homespun suits decreed by the mode.
These wide ribbed stockings are partic-
ularly attractive in neutral shades and
come in ribs varying from 4 to 1, and 6
and 2, to 11 and 3. Silk and wool in shot
effect can be counted upon to remain in
favor for some months at least.

Beaded Hose For Formal Wear

In hosiery for formal wear, sheer
weights in thread silk seem to be in
greatest demand, especially in the new
pointed heel effect which lends the ankle
such a slender appearance. This partic-
ular type of stocking is now being offer-
ed to the trade in a seamed back or
fashioned effect leg and can be obtained
in fancy dropped stitch in addition. The
leading colors in silk hosiery for spring
will include seal and cordovan browns
and beige, but a strong bid for favor is
being made by all white hosiery and
since innumerable smart novelties are
shown in both Italian and thread silk,
featuring lacy effects and clocking, quite
different from ordinary elaboration.
Beads, of th,e tiny crystal variety, are
being lavishly employed on dressy
hosiery for evening wear with quite
charming results. One smart chestnut
brown pair seen in a Montreal showroom
this month had a three inch motif in
floral design done entirely in beads just
over the instep. The manufacturers
claim that the beads will in no way in-
terfere with the washing properties of
the hose, and the richness of the beading
upon the silk is unusually smart, esp?ci-
ally when worn with beaded slippers.
These new stockings may be obtained

in the fashionable shades as well as in
white and black.

Embroidery Reproduces Gems

Embroidered anklets are the latest
word from some Canadian silk hosiery
makers, one of whom is planning to put
out an exclusive range this month, which
will be more unusual than any style yet
created. The effect, it is said, will by that
of a jewelled bracelet, developed in vivid
silks, to reproduce the effect of a bit of
barbaric or antique jewellery worn
around one ankle. Practically every
wanted color combination will be obtain-
able when this line is placed on the mar-
ket, and the workmanship will be of su-
perlative quality, being entirely hand
done by experienced embroiderers.

"Nothing at All" — New Evening Shade

A few striking imported hose are on
view in a leading Montreal showroom for
immediate selling and include such start- '
ling effects as the "nothing at all" or
nude shades, which are unrecognizable
from flesh itself. Then there are some
striking novelties in lace clocks which are
sufficiently open work in effect to ap-
pear in good contrast to the darker
shade of stocking. Open work clocks are
said to promise well for Easter selling
as well as the solid embroidered type in
either single or triple stripe effect.

For the Sportswoman
Heavy angora hose in a smart camel's
hair shade, clocked in brilliant blue or
brown are considered very smart at pres-
ent for winter sports and are frequently
sold with gauntlets to match or with a
voluminous scarf of the same shade. Men
are enquiring for vests in camel's hair
effect as well, it is said.

Several leading importers of hosiery
in Montreal state that no more full-
fashioned hosiery can be obtained till
June next from the manufacturers, des-
pite rumors that there will be a plenti-
ful supply. Canadian mills are booked
with orders till August next and in cer-
tain lines of hosiery, notably children's
fancy socks and three-quarter length
hosiery, it is impossible to get merchan-
dise of any description. There is an
enormous demand for striped socks for
children, especially with brightly colored
fibre silk bands inset in the cuffs, and
no further deliveries can be got' on this
line for many months to come. It is an-
ticipated that the demand for three-
quarter and "roll-top" hosiery will be
greater than ever, despite the decrees
of the censors, and the trade is advis-
ed to look for its stocks as early as pos-
sible lest a shortage take them unawares.

LARGER HATS FOR SPRING

(Continued from page 48)
this subject. These people say that
there will be very little trimming used
except lace or one large flower. This
large hat trims itself by its effective
droop.

Appliqued flowers will be favored on
the allover straw hats. Flat, pale pink
ones and the deeper tones of rose pink
flowers are best. There will, however,
not be a great many of the allover straw
shown for the first few months. Solid
straws have no place in public favor
either in New York or here.

With each day the turban shape be-
comes more prominent. Three and
four-cornered toques are best of all.
Before the Summer is over only the very
large and the very small shapes will be
prominent. The in-between sizes of this
winter will scarcely be seen.

The soft pull-on type of hat is largely
favored for the younger set. Even the
sailors lack the stiffness usually asso-
ciated with them. Some sailors have a
soft scarf draped on the side. Tile blue
is the favored shade in these youthful
hats but lemon is in demand also.

In all the houses there is a distinct
absence of the black and white combin-
ation. Many of them still keep to
brown, there is some henna, and as men-
tioned before, black is good but never
black and white.

A short-brimmed mushroom sailor has
a folded crown of tile blue Milan and is
faced with blue and white novelty rib-
bon.

Tricorne, with crown and brim top of
black cire serge ribbon and facing of
taffeta flowers in tile blue.

A very smart chapeau of beige and
brown hemp combined with haircloth,
the draped crown having a circle of
large daisies.

One hat of black tagel has its brim
rolling very softly upwards in front and
is faced with black grosgrain ribbon.
The ribbon is looped at the back and
there are long quills at either side of the
hat.

An allover lace hat of large propor-
tions with jet pin and ornaments.

Semi-sports model is a satin pull-on
of nigger-brown with the brim faced
with terra-coitta georgette. Both the
satin and the georgette are quilted in
diamond shape.

A mushroom hat of satin finely tuck-
ed on the bias, has a novelty brim edged
with a stiff row and covered with a
corded ribbon of cinnamon brown. The
hat itself is mole color.

One draped turban in the new Sahara
shade has a bird for trimming along
with hair-braid.

Dry Goods Review

KNITTED GOODS

Sales Staff in Underwear Dept.

Important Factor in Larger Sales — Can Use Dozen
Suits of Underwear a Year — Three Distinct Seas-
ons — Merits of Knitted Underwear

((TTTHY is it that all the sales
l/y/ girls with personality and sell-
" " ing ability are put in the de-
partments that do not require stimulus?"
asked a customer in a Montreal store
the other day. "I can tell for myself
whether or not a frock or a hat is go-
ing to be suitable for my purposes, but
I never seem to be able to get accurate
information about underwear for my-
self or my husband, for some reason or
other."

This opinion, overheard in the eleva-
tor of a department store, suggested ar.
idea which when put to practical test
proved that the lady was nearly right.
In one case, a sales girl at the under-
wear counter seemed to have plenty of
information at her command regarding
what was in stock and the various quali-
ties of the merchandise but she never
seemed to grasp the fact that she could
have sold more garments than the cus-
tomer intended buying or a better grade
than she asked for.

Three Seasons for Underwear
Underwear nowadays is possessed of
almost as many advantages to use as
talking points as is ready to wear, and
certainly the style element is no longer
absent. With three different seasons to
look after, and their varying weights
and styles peculiar to each, and the fad
for colors and different textiles, not to
mention the hundred and one styles of
neck and sleeves which are now on the
market, it would seem as though only
sales girls possessed of much more than
average ability were needed to merchan-
dise goods of so varied a type.

Another case investigated proved that
the sales girl in question was over-anx-
ious to sell only high-priced garments
and continually embarrassed the custom-
er by remarking, "Of course we have
cheaper lines than these, but you would
not want to see those, would you?"
Still another sales clerk proved to be so
bored with her work that she could not
summon up enough energy to look for
the different lines enquired for by the
customer.

Of course, it is recognized that all
sales girls cannot be possessed of the
kind of wide-awake personality which
stands for success in business life, but
at least it is the store's duty to see that
the departments which are deficient in
color and attractiveness shall at least be
provided with a selling force of more
than usual ability. For knit underwear
is one of the few lines in a store which
has little or no personality of its own
and depends upon that which is given
it by the sales clerk.

Formerly the average store had the
idea that no more suits of underwear
could be sold than could be worn out by
a customer in a year. Now that is all
changed. The average woman can find

a use for a dozen different kinds of un-
derwear each season, depending upon the
purpose she wishes to wear it for. But
first of all, there must be the right kind
of sales staff, each member of which
knows the secret of investing her mer-
chandise with the magic of personality,
maybe by the inflection of her voice or
the manner in which she holds up a vest
for examination, and most of all in the
knowledge she imparts to her customer
regarding the character of the goods.
Which is Better?

What are some of the properties of
cotton and wool underwear which should
be thoroughly understood by the selling-
force? For example, which are best,
the knit or woven varieties of under-
wear?

According to a manufacturer who has
given the question considerable thought,
there is no definite advantage in one
type over another. Woven underwear is
made of yarn tightly twisted in spinning
and it is a fact that moisture will eva-
porate from it more slowly than from
the knitted yarn. The looseness of
knitter parn means that this type of un-
derwear will absorb more moisture than
woven fabric underwear in the long run,
and it will also permit its moisture to
pass rff more quickly into the air.
Knitted light weight underwear is the
ideal raiment for a hot day, for not
only does it take a good deal more pers-
piration to make it cling but even when
thoroughly wet, it has a certain amount
of elasticity which prevents the clammy,
sticky feeling of the woven fabric. This
point of comparison is employed because
the chief competition between knitted
and woven underwear comes in hot
weather.

TUXEDO TO HAVE RIVAL

(Continued from page 60)
in running the two together in the dye-
ing, as the silk will not take the same
color as wool.

Manufacturers are taking peculiar
care this year in the matter of cut.
Most of the best grades are knitted in-
to shape instead of stitched and all he
edges are selvaged to prevent stretch-
ing. Some very attractive models are
going out to the trade during the next
few weeks. Three piece outfits, which
have found favor for skating and sports
this Winter will be stressed more than
ever for Fall buyinig. Peter Pan collars
are shown on both tuxedos and slip-
ons. Roman borders are favored but
they will be shown mostly in the nigh-
priced goods. One desie-ner believes
that by next Fall, both the slip-on and
the tuxedo will give way to the suit-
coat and sweater of the Russian Mouse
style, buttoning up at the neck and
oDening at the side.

Here is a choker which should take
with the little ones. It is modelled like
the grown-up's fur choker. Comes in all
the heather shades and is made of brush-
ed wool. It is very neat in appearance
and inexpensive. — Shown by the Mon-
arch Knitting Co., Dunnville, Ont.

MILLINERY DEPT. CAN CATER

(Continued from page 51)
and plenty of mirrors are provided both
on the walls and upon the display tables,
as well as innumerable easy chairs of
wicker, cushioned in gay cretonnes. Over
head, canary birds sing continually in
quaint wicker cages, and create an
illusion of summertime amid this
garden of flowery millinery. According
to Mr. Kirtley, it is essential that the de-
partmert be accessible from all sides,
otherwise women are not so likely to
pass through or to be impelled to pur-
chase. Fullv three out of every five
sales of millinery are what are called
"impulse" sales, bought because the hat
attracted the buyer's fancy, not because
it was really necessary.

The Salesladies

The salesladies in the millinery de-
partment should be of varied types,
young and mature, blonde and dark,
slim and plump. The reasons for this
dictum according to Mr. Kirtley, are
rational. Customers like to be wa ; tcJ
on by girls who approximate them in
appearance, and they can be more read-
ily persuaded to buy when they see how
a hat looks upon someone else of their
own type.

Never under any circumstances should
a "spiff" or "P. M." be placed upon mil-
linery to push it out quickly. Vanity
goods must never be sold upon this basis.
Far better put the hats on sale at a price
which will move them than to resort to
this means.

Above all other things get the people
into the department. Do not attempt to
sell millinery over the telephone or en-
courage customers to ask for goods in
this manner.

KNI.TTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

LAST Spring and Fall were good seasons for
Knitted Fabrics. But every indication
points to the conclusion that the coming Spring
will surpass all others in this branch of the
trade — that Knitted Fabrics and Homespuns
will come first and foremost in sports suits,
cloaks and coats. The above page from the
Dry Goods Economist is ample proof of this
fact.

Hawthorn Fabrics have long since proved their
worth. They have even invaded the style centres
of New York, while in Canada they will be
demanded more than ever this Spring. They
will be made up in some delightfully novel styles
for the Spring trade by Canada's leading manu-
facturers. And every garment will bear the
Hawthorn label.

Hawthorn Mills Limited

Carleton Place, Ont.

CANADA PRODUCT

Dry Goods Review:

KNITTED GOODS

S«5*

. 2&*+*

A similar machine
condenses the fibres
into this soft wool
rope called
roving! 1

The spinning mule,
by twisting the
strand, compresses
the roving into fine
wear resisting yarn.

Qreaf looms wave
the tasted yam
into Jblankets
WO inches wife

r/ <?<?

ONI/Ycfeni.iiev wool

and NEW wool only

is used in

KENWOOD
BLANKETS

The ■wool is dyed
Tyfalein this state.

V% V*" -.S*^^^"*

It is not too late

to profit
THIS SEASON

from the sale of

******

l&ed buns called teazles
revotano'dgajjist Uie unfin
ished iabric raise the sur-
face into the soft wool down
that so closely resembles
fur in feel and warmth.

KENWOODwo L o L L BED BLANKETS

A window of these attractive bed blankets
with the interesting display material pictured
above will quickly demonstrate its efficiency
in building sales and profits.

These Kenwood All Wool Bed Blankets are
the attractively patterned, delightfully col-
ored, Canadian made bed blankets which have
won the attention of so many of our best
stores the past year.

The display material is furnished free on

request to dealers who purchase 24 pairs or
more.

Order a case to-day, make the display, and

test for yourself the profit possibilities of

this quick turning line.

The solid colors with worsted edging can be

profitably featured throughout the summer

for camp and cottage use.

Please specify the finish desired — whether

whipped all around with worsted or bound

across ends with 3-inch satin ribbon.

KENWOOD MILLS, LIMITED

Arnprior, Ontario

Canada

KENWOOD All Wool Bed Blanket SPECIFICATIONS

Sizes— 72 x 84 and 60 x 84.
Weight erf larger size — Approximately 4 pounds each

blanket, 8 pounds the pair.
Stock — Pure new wool only.

Shrinkage — Woven 100 inches wide, shrunk to 72 inches
at the mill.

Patterns — Solids and Kenwood checks.

Colors — Unfading dyes.

Solids of Checks of

43-C Rose-white
43-D Blue-white
43-E Tan-white

43-N Tan
43-B Grey
43-A White

Bindings — Either embroidered with worsted
edging, or finished across ends with 3-
inch satin ribbon.

MEMORANDUM

fEN WOO p

Products

KNI.TTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

UNSHRINKABLE

The Underwear
ikat Overyears

ATLANTIC UNDERWEAR

LIMITED

MONCTON - - N.B.

E. H. Walsh & Company
Montreal & Toronto

Selling Agents for .<

Quebec, Ontario and Western Provinces

A Burritt Creation

Something New in a
Knitted Suit

Fashioned from the choicest of
yarn in the most popular of
color combinations, this strik-
ing sports model is bound to
create a demand.

Travellers now on the road
with newest samples.

A. Burritt & Co.

Mitchell, Ont.

Established 1875

Manufacturers of Sweaters, Pure Camel Hair
Men's Seamless Gloves, Pullovers, Toques,
Boys' and Men's Ribbed Worsted Hosiery.

Dry Goods Review

KNITTED GOODS

Sturdy Stockings-
Rapid Sellers

"LJ ERE'S a line of youngsters' stockings specially suit-
able for cold weather sales — Rock Rib and Hercules.

These strong, durable stockings are closely knit from ex-
tra long yarn, with a double-ply leg and three-ply heel and
toe. They'll keep youngsters warm on the coldest day.
And just as important — they'll save mother mending.

Sizes 5 to IO14. In boxes of one dozen pairs.

Your wholesaler can supply you with these fine stockings.
Check over your stock and fill your incomplete sizes now.

The Chipman-Holton Knitting Company, Limited
Hamilton, Ontario

Mills at Hamilton and Wetland, Ontario

ROCK RIB HERCULES

Ifos£&r*j/ For*
Bays and Girls

Buster Brown
Three Eighties
Little Darling
Little Daisy
Rock Rib
Hercules

PRINCESS

~ ~¥ -:'

Princess stockings are ex-
cellent for the girls. Made
from two-ply English Lisle
yarn. These stockings are
hard wearing, and have
a most attractive appear-
ance. Sizes 4 1-2 to .10.

R EGISTERE D

KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods Revieu

They Sell the Mothers

Link-and-link purl stitched kiddie garments of
finest Australian botany yarn are now made
possible by special machinery which we have in-
stalled to meet the wide demand among mothers
for this class of goods.

PRISCILLA

Knit Goods for Kiddies

in this style have the attractiveness and closely-
knit strength of the best hand-made woollens,
which are the ideal of all mothers. They sell
the mothers and make them your steady cus-
tomers.

We know that you will be interested in the
exceptionally attractive prices we are able to
give you eta this high class of goods.

HENRY DAVIS & CO., LIMITED

259 Spadina Avenue

Toronto

ma&fii^iu'M^iMiMia^

Supreme in Value, Quality and Demand

The continual demand for Peerless Underwear is
born of a Dominion-wide recognition of its value — its
supreme Quality and long lasting merit.

Peerless Underwear, too, offers a good profit to
the retailer.

For Women — Children — Infants

MOODIES

Peerless Underwear
Company, Limited

Controlled by

J. R. Moodie & Sons, Limited
Hamilton, Ont.

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Dry Goods Reviexo

KNITTED GOODS

wmmmm^^

2/1 Ribbed Cotton Hose for Children

I / 1 Ribbed Cotton Hose for Children

Thomson Knitting Co. Limited

Manufacturers

BOWMANVILLE - ONTARIO

SELLING AGENTS

WM. R. BEGG & COMPANY A. E. MONTGOMERY

20 Wellington St. West
Toronto

Hammond Block
Winnipeg, Man.

J. B. TROW & CO.

Old Birks Building

Montreal.

KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

Your Patrons Are

WELL DRESSED MEN

They Will Appreciate

Circle-Bar Hosiery

They want hosiery that fits perfectly and is of superior quality — the unobtrusive
hosiery that harmonizes with well-cut clothes. Circle Bar Hosiery provides for
perfect fit and comfort with its tapering toe, extra heel depth and narrowed
ankle. And using only the pure silk, the finest wool and long fibre cotton,
quality is guaranteed.

All styles in silk, wool, mercerized, lisle and cotton.

The Circle-Bar Knitting Co., Limited

Head Office

Kincardine, Ont.

•Kimato

HOSIEE5Y

MILLS AT KINCARDINE AND OWEN SOUND

Buy British Goods

Deliveries can be given from stock or
for import —

HORROCKSES: Cottons, Nainsooks, Sheet-
ings, etc. •

NEWMAN, SMITH & NEWMAN, LTD.:
Draperies, Comforters, etc.

JAFFE BROS., LTD.: Fancy Irish Linens,
and Handkerchiefs.

MILLER & PORTEOUS, LTD.: All wool
Scotch blankets.

WM. HOLT & SONS: Towels and quilts.

JOHN E. RITCHIE

Dry Goods Commission Agent
591 St. Catherine St. W., Montreal

Branches:

64 Wellington St. W.. 615 Pender St. W

Toronto Vancouver, B.C.

29 Minshull St., Manchester. Enp.

GOLF HOSE

The newest shades for Men,

Women, Boys and

Children

Send us your requirements. We
will submit samples and prices.

Lavoie Knitting Co.

Peterborough - Ontario

You Can Endorse
Mitchell All-wool Plaids

to the limit and know that the material will live
up to your every endorsement.
The Spring demand is brisk. Order in time to
meet it. WE ARE READY WITH A COMPLETE
LINE AT ATTRACTIVE PRICES.

Mitchell Woollen Co.,

Limited

Mitchell . . . Ontario

Men's &

Boys'

Jerseys

Sweaters

Underwear

Socks

Sport Crps

Heather Sox

Black and

White

Worsteds

Tweeds

Homespun

Cashmere

Dry Goods Review KNITTED GOODS 71

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TRAD

REGISTERED

Now is The Normal Placing Season

for

O. V. BRAND

Pure Wool Products

Get Back to Normal !

When the mills work, the workman buys

0. V. BRAND PURE WOOL UNDERWEAR

"Weight and warmth for the outdoor man"
Combinations that fit, and two-piece garments for Men and Boys

0. V. BRAND PURE WOOL BLANKETS

Quality goods that rank with the world's best

In whites and fancy. Special — Attractive line of pure wool bed covers

and nursery blankets

0. V. BRAND PURE WOOL WHEELING YARNS

Dyed in the wool fast colors. Write for shade card

Our guarantee backs every sale
Sold through the wholesale trade

Agents :

H. J. FOX.

C. E. WINKS.

W. R. MILLER,

152 Bar St.,

44 Aiken Bldg.,

807 Mercantile Bldxr

TORONTO

WINNIPEG.

VANCOUVER.

General Sales Office : 35 St. Nicholas St., Montreal

Manufactured by

BATES & INNES LIMITED

Carleton Place - Ontario

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KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

Y^ih^m y^^^S \f<£niiiBN V'liSBN \f*sS^! y ffi^^ v<gin^ , M v^^^N ? #^
ViU-ssT*! VsksBM \.*!2i^s?>i, I V*l2^5rit. I V* k, ' ,,o *'-i,l V*"*! flgu, 1 u* i "u«o <> u.I \*""Ltf* , j,l V'Ssjs?'*

There is only one make of
knitted underwear made in
Canada that is reinforced
at all wearing parts.

That is

CEETEE

THE PURE WOOL

UNDERCLOTHING

THAT WILL NOT SHRINK

Our travellers
are now on
the road
with new
samples and
prices —
with a full
line of
CEETEE
and Turn-
bull's
Ladies',
Children's
and Infants'
garments.

Don't place
your order
until you
have seen
our lines.

Made only by £fa

of Gait, Canada

P tftTuf^ O y< ?uTTi yv T/- ^trFn yO V'SHIp^j V<5T3?M y tfnrn?<

DRY GOODS REVIEW

°7/ie G lo ves and Jiosio zy 7/ou&e <g / Ganadg

This is a

Griffin

amaBsaa

Glove

"Made-in-Canada by
Canadian Workers"

A beautiful material of soft texture and rich finish that washes
perfectly. The Chamo Suede lends itself to some of the most
pleasing effects possible in gloves.

MADE IN
CANADA

Travellers now on the road

Griffin Gloves Limited

TORONTO
ONTARIO

IONDONKNIT

Hose
QUALITY

Is the keynote of the London knit range of women's, boys' and
girls' hosiery. Whether it be the lower priced lines in cotton or
the finer silk lisle or cashmere, the quality is always of that
standard that builds confidence through satisfaction.

Now Showing for Fall 1922
IQNDONIASS

|^ i ijSEBmMSBSBSw

MADE IN
CANADA

London Hosiery Mills

Limited

Richard L.Baker^Ca W

LIMITED JEB

84WellingtonStUfest ^JP
Toronto

DRY GOODS REVIEW

°Jhe Glov&s and 'Tiosioo^ Hou&e &/ Ganada

lue&tO^

The "Buyword"

for
Silk gloves, glove silk lingerie, glove silk hosiery

Originality of design adds ioo per
cent, to the selling value of Queen
Quality products. New numbers
are showing now.

See them now for Fall 1922 and
Sorting

ST. CATHARINES SILK MILLS

Limited

St. Catharines, Ontario

SERVICE

There is no matter connected with
silk hosiery too small or too great tor
us to willingly look after. That
single pair of hose in an odd shade
to match a gown that means your
rputation for service with the cus-
tomer, the delivery of orders as
specified and when specified, so that
you can fulfil your promises, are but
items in a service that backs up
Venus quality at every turn.

Venus Silk Hosiery Mills

Limited

TORONTO ONTARIO

Selling Agents

d L. Baker LCo
Wellington Si. West
Toronto

Dry Goods Review •

KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods Review

Dods-Knit Beaver Fleece

For Men, Women and Children

See this Trade Mark on
every garment

Selling Agents

Ontario and Western
Canada:

R. Reade Davis,

Manchester Building,

33 Melinda Street,

Toronto, Ontario.

Quebec and Maritime
Provinces :

William C. Forster,

128 Bleury St.

Montreal, Quebec

AS A RESULT of many suggestions
from the trade, that we extend our
Dods-Knit Beaver Fleece lines, we
are pleased to announce that our selling
agents are out in their territories, with a
full line of Dods-Knit Beaver Fleece,
which includes — vests, drawers, combin-
ations and bloomers for ladies, and
waists, bloomers, vests, drawers, combin-
ations and sleepers for children.

The samples being shown also include
the usual Beaver Fleece quality lines in
two-piece and combinations for boys and
men.

Our representatives are also showing
very fine samples of Dods Scotch and

100'

pure

Elastic Knit, guaranteed
wool, and Dods Merino.

You would do well to see them. Every
garment will cany the new trade-mark —
our guarantee that the quality is there
as always.

(Sold Wholesale Only)

The Dods Knitting Co. Limited

Orangeville

Ontario

Dry Goods Review

KNITTED GOODS

MllllMIIIIIIIIIIMIIIMIIIIIIIIIMIMIIIIMIIIIIIMIMIIIIMtlll!IIIMIIIII>lilllll>l»IIIMIIIIIIIIII.IIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIII

Maple

Leaf

MADE BY
t«< GODERICH KNITTING C»

Hosiery

Bring down the H. C. of L. by
selling High Grade Hosiery at
greatly reduced prices.

See our line in Heather, Lovat,
solid colors, black and white, be-
fore placing your Spring or Fall
order.

Our agent will call on you
with samples. Wait for him.

The Goderich Knitting Co.

LIMITED
Goderich, Ontario

i Miiiiiiiiiiiiiimimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiii iiiiiiii.iimimi: iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiiiiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiMMiini

CELTIC

SILK HOSIERY

Our representatives are now on the road with
our new line of CELTIC SILK HOSIERY, in
attractive, embroidered novelties of undeniable
originality, highest quality and careful finish.

You will find it worth your while to inspect this
latest "CELTIC" showing.

Selling Agents ;

HARVEY BROS. & SEMPLE Ltd.

224 Empire Bldg. 313 Fort St. 325 Howe St.

TORONTO WINNIPEG VANCOUVER

THE CELTIC KNITTING

CO., LIMITED
14 Turgeon St. Montreal

Knitted Sweaters

for the Stout Woman

Do you realize that one-third cf the
women are in the "stout" class? It's
up to you to capture this large portion
of the Sweater Trade.

The quality of Fainer Sweaters is de-
pendable and the prices are advantage-
ous to you.

Sizes 41-43-45.

$48.00 dc3en

Made in Navy, Fawn, Cadet and
Turqucise

The Fainer Knitting
Mills Limited

399 St. Lawrence Blvd.

MONTREAL

KNITTED GOODS

Dry Goods RevUw

■***i" :

Range, Quality and Price

These are the three features which distinguish
Mercury products in 1922 —

And we are going to tell this to the public in
all the leading daily newspapers and magazines
from coast to coast.

Advertisements distinctively Mercury will
begin to appear in the papers early in March
and should be of very material help to your sales-
manship in marketing Mercury Underwear and
Hosiery.

We want our goods behind the counters of
every good retail store in Canada because people
are asking for Mercury products by name.

Write us for full particulars of all our lines.

Underwear and Hosiery

Mercury Mills Limited

Hamilton, Ontario

MAKERS OF HOSIERY AND UNDERWEAR
FOR MEN, WOMEN AND CHILDREN

Oru Goods Review

ACCESSORIES

Created by Canadian Handkerchiefs, Ltd.
Executed by British & Colonial Press.

MADE IN CANADA
For the Wholesale Trade only, by
THE CANADIAN HANDKERCHIEFS, LTD.
Montreal
Selling Agents:
Western Canada Eastern Canada

E. H. Walsh & Co., Winnipeg and Province of Quebec and Maritime

Vancouver Provinces,

W. R. Beggs & Co., Toronto W. F. Macoun, Montreal

ACCESSORIES

Dry Goods Review

Smart Novelties for Easter Trade

Montreal Houses Have New Things in Accessories, Gloves, Hos-
iery and Neckwear — Revival of Jabot Frill — Arrival of Waist-
coats — Silk and Wool Hose Blended to Wear With Black and
Tan Shoes to be Strong for Fall Trade — Loose Gloves

EASTER 1922 will witness a mark-
ed revival of smart novelty neck-
wear, according to a leading Mon-
treal manufacturer whose designers are
busily engaged at present in evolving
charming conceits of colored handker-
chief linen of sheer texture which will
ultimately be placed upon the market in
the form of vestees and collar and cuff
sets along the line of the Bramley ef-
fect, now firmly established in popular
regard.

Insofar as Canadian trade is concern-
ed, simplicity will prevail in neckwear.
Since fashion decrees that sports ef-
fects shall reign supreme, simple and
tailored styles will naturally receive
the most attention. The vogue for sports
attire has of necessity had an important
bearing upon the choice of materials
utilized in the making of the newest
neckwear, since for accompanying se-
vere tweeds or strictly tailored home-
spuns, the fluffy and lace trimmed ac-
cessories of yester year would be en-
tirely out of place.

Jabot Frill Revived

One Montreal designer whose pro-
ducts are exceedingly smart and indi-
vidual slated this month that she ex-
pected the jaibot frill to be revived
somewhat on account of the fact that
many suits are so severe in line that
some sort of softening effect is imper-
ative. However, she expects that real
linen sets in either natural or colorful
effects will be the rage as soon as furs
are left off and the new suits are don-
ned. She is showing a smart flat vestee
of real linen, pleated in flat unstitched
folds vertically, finished at the neck by
a shallow Bramley collar which fastens
at the back only. A small bow of black
ribbon edged with white is the sole dec-
oration. The same vestee is also shown
trimmed with tiny bullet buttons, self
covered, placed in clusters upon the
fronts of the collar and down the front.
The favorite colors are shell pink, tan,
natural, and delft blue while grass green
and rose are also shown.

Linen BramJey sets inset with real
filet ]aoe are another popular fad. These
are also shown in the same range of
colors as those above. The filet lace
takes the form of corner motifs.

The sleeveless fi-ock still demands a
sheer guimpe, and to satisfy the insist-
ent call for something new and differ-
ent this designer is creating a smart
guimpe of fine ecru net featuring a tux-
edo collar of real filet lace and inset
motifs of emjbroidered net. The sleeves
are rather different from those featur-
ed last fall and altogether this new var-

iation should take the fancy of the pub-
lic without delay.

Flat vestees of lace and net are again
offered, but are now composed of many
rows of fine val lace, row upon row,
stitched toge her quite flat. This ef-
fect is exquisite and quite unusual, since
ihe lace is kept entirely smooth and un-
ruffled, creating an appearance of an
allover rather than the fluffy effect of
last season.

Other collar sets are finished by a
folded bias edge with no s itching show-
ing at all, while others are piped in pa-
tent leather or black ( ire.

Among the novel neckwear accessor-
ies imported this month by a Montreal
house, were some dainty checked ging-
ham vests combined with natural linen.
These vests or "gilets," are spoken of

NEW PURITAN COLLAR

With jabot attached trimmed with fine

Duchess lace. — Shown by the A. B.

Minnie Company o? Montreal.

as the newest thing in New York and
come in many different: styles including
plain white linen finished with filet
lace, gingham edged with organdy ruffr
les, natural linen edged with checked
gingham and also checked pique. The
last named group of vests are made in
slip-on style finished with a roll collar
and two button closing, the bottom edge
being finished with pointed tabs or
some other novel manner which will be
suiable for wearing with a tweed or
jersey suit. Cire organdie is said to '
very popular for edging the new vestees
and collar sets.

Hosiery Notes

A leading Montreal firm states that
silk and wool hose blended to wear with
black and tan shoes will be strong for
fall wear, while for spring there is
quite a call for medium grey and beige
as leading colors in silk hosiery. Prices
on silk gloves, hose and underwear are
expected to advance if the present stif-
fening in the raw silk market continues.
Raw silk having jumped to $8.65 within
the past three months, past prices figur-
ed on the $6 basis can only hold as long
as present stocks exist. Orders for fu-
ture delivery cannot be accepted for silk
goods of any kind until prices on raw
silk are known.

A hosiery buyer in an Ottawa store
commented to Dry Goods Review on the
fact that patent leather footwear is rap-
idly becoming the rage both in New
York and here. Patent leather brogues
are spoken of as being the latest to ac-
company the tailored suit and in conse-
quence stocks of black silk hosiery, or
anv colors which will look smart with
black footwear, are being watched care-
fully. Store buyers say that it is to be
a big season for silk hosiery again, with
heavy wool varieties quiet so far r~
general wear is concerned.

There is a new sock or rolled top
hose offered which features an elastic
gartered top concealed under the cuff
of the ton. In black, in short lengths,
this noveltv will be especially popular
for bathing hose as the elastic will keep
it up unwrinkled.

LooFe Gloves Favored

In leather gloves there is a distinct
call for the new "slip-on gloves" for
both men and women. These are not
in the least bulky about the wrist and
have the appearance of gauntlets with-
out the strap or elastic gusset. Devel-
oped in mocha, cape, kid or chamois
these gloves are rapidly becoming pop-
ular with exclusive trade.

Dry Goods Review

ACCESSORIES

Radium Still Very Strong For Fall

Importers Say It Has Had a Phenomenal Run for a Lace — Popu-
larity of Spanish Laces and Shawls — Paris Promotes Greater Use
of Girdles — Some of the New Things in Earrings and Necklaces —
Jeweler Says Dry Goods Store The Place For Novelties

¥ REALLY believe tha; radium
laces will be good until fall and
even last all during- the fall
months," declared a manufacturer) of
laces in Toronto. "Never since I have
been m business has one lace lasted as
long as radium," says an importer. A
third man who has just returned from
Paris remarked on ;he way that radiums
are still being featured over there. "If
radium lace has any rival next season,
it will be the Spanish. Spanish has
really been used a li.tle longer, but it
was not quite so universally taken up
as the other and for that reason, 1
think Paris will promote it again." In
the meantime, wholesale houses are do-
ing a record business in radiums. One im-
porter has already sold 300 of the 900
pieces he is expecting from France dur-
ing the next three weeks.

The representative of a Swiss house

A Bramley collar and vestee which is
of linen crash. The embroidery and
drawn-work are hand-done. — Shown by
Dress Essentials, Limited, Toronto.

informed our> nepreslentla'uive that all-
over materials will not be as s.rong
next season. Flouncings will take their
place. He says that in the laces and
other materials used for veiling over
silks and satlins, chenille will be seen.
This chenille work is usually of a con-
trasting material and is hand-done.

It is used in combination with se-
quins and sometimes with metal and
metallic bead.s. Our informant believes
that chenille will replace t|he all-sequin
materials but another importer has just
received a shipment of the latter for fall
orders and says that he is not afraid
of being unable to dispose of it.

Canadian taste for staples is the sav_
ing grace for many dress accessory
houses. Though most of them are
anxious to feature whatever is new in
Paris or New York, they usually carry
as well a quantity of the things which
those ci ies have relegated to the for-
gottjen past, because, as one whole-
saler says, "things die harder here." In
that way, they are not so often caught
wth lines which they cannot dispose of
and which would be the downfall of
novel »y houses in the big American
cities.

Frills and Furbelows in Lace

That Spanish laces and Spanish
shawls will have even a stronger run
than last year is evident from the way
that designers and artists are taking
them up. For the "Wild Cat," a produc-
tion which is running in the Park The--
atre, New York, a drop-curtain has been
made of a Spanish shawl. It is 35 feet
high and 40 feet long and there is a
fringe of six inches depth running along
sides and bottom.

Lace is also finding i s way into the
realm of fans. While the feather fan
still holds its own, the enormously largo
ones have given way to the small and
medium size ones. The French train
which toured ibis country last fall,
showed real lace and handpalnting on
the fans exhibited. It is expected that
these will be very strong in America
next winter. The sticks are of tlortoise
shell or amber inlaid with gold leaf.
In small fans, spangles and ne's will be
good to. All the bright colors are
favored as usual, the pastel shades not
finding favor in these ornaments.

Headdresses have been popular
enough this season to warrant a splen-
did run for them next year. Rhinestone,
foliage, silver and gold are probably
the strongest sellers in these bandeaux.
The wholesale houses in Toronto did not
stock very heavily in them this year be-
cause they were not cer'ain of them but
several are now placing orders for next
season.

Girdles, girdles, girdles, says Paris.
Some are elaborate and some are most
simple, some are of ribbon and more are
of metal. Anything is good as long as
it goes around the waist and hangs
down. Yes, it must hang down, either
at one side or at both or in the front.
It is the vogue for the straight line,
which is straighter if possible than ever,
on all the Paris gowns and suits, which
has simply forced importers to get in
large supplies of these girdles. Were it
not for these, the mere male observer
would wonder whether the female form
divine possesses a waist line any longer.

Probably the newest thing in girdles
is the one of beads. These beads are
rounded on the sides and flat on the top
like the old-fashioned ones. They are
usually fairly large in size and are
strung firmly in conventional patterns.
Beads of wood are also used. The color
scheme follows that of the old West
(Continued on page 84)

NARROW BELTS FOR NEW SPRING
FROCKS

Novelty English leather belts just re-
ceived in Montreal which feature unusual
lacings and cut work effects d°v?loped
in black patent leather and white kid.
Tan and blue are also featured in heavier
leathers. — Shown by G. A. O'Dell of
.'Montreal.

ACCESSORIES

Dry Goods Review

Accessories in Montreal Houses

Yardage Veils Said To Be in The Lead in Large Spot Patterns—

The Leather Bag Preferred For Spring With Brisk Demand For

Moire Silk for Summer Use — Silk and Chamoisette Varieties in

Washable Gloves— Return of The Belt

"ONTREAL importers of veilings
state that yardage veils are
distinctly in the lead in spot
patterns of considerable size. The
newest veilings indeed are quite unusual
on account of the size of the patterns
employed. Fuchsia tones, navies and
browns are good in addition to the
staple black. The tendency is to get
away entirely from the small effects
and to feature instead the large "cherry
spots" in sizes approximating 1%
inches.

Likewise, the retail buyers are getting
away from the Chantilly effects in veil-
ings but are retaining a partiality for
Shetland veilings for spring. Although
various sized meshes are demanded, only
the hexagon pattern is preferred by
smarter women, it is said.

The draped veil is being largely
featured in conjunction with the spring
millinery openings and many smart hats
owe their distinction to the use of a
beautifully embroidered veil draped in
long points over the back.

It is recognized that no country can
excel France in point of veilings and the
latest importations received in Canada
bear out this view. Although it may

Dainty net guimpes are still decreed t >
accompany Spring frocks. This out is of
icru trimmed with real filet lace — Show.v

BY THE A. B. FlNNIE CO. OF MONTREAL.

take time to accustom the conservative
Canadian women to adopt the veil coL
orings and somewhat startling border
effects sponsored by Paris this year, yet
ultimately they will be adopted, the im-
porters feel sure. One such veil noticed
had a scroll design of brilliant berries
and grapes in clusters worked on it. A
spider web veil radiating from a center
where the mesh is more closely woven
than at the edges was another novelty.

The Spring Hand Bag

Leather is once more fashion's favor-
ite as regards the development of smart
hand bags for spring. Although there
is a good demand for more silk bags for
summer use, leather is nevertheless be-
coming more and more strongly en-
trenched in favor. Possibly this is
accounted for by the fact that the vari-
ations on leather products are now al-
most numberless in quantity, permitting
great latitude in designing novelties of
this description.

Among the best liked shapes selected
for the coming season are the "melon"
styles in various sizes, the majority of
which are somewhat larger than the
average in past seasons. One very
striking example was developed in
Hippo leather tending more toward an
oblong effect. It was lined with tan-
gerine faille silk and fastened with a
novelty clasp reproducing a plaster
plaque in effect. This bag, as well as
others of the same maker, are finished
with flat straps crushed at either end
to give the desired spring without the
use of metal rings.

Bordered India leather is effectively
used for bags which show an embossed
motif on the flap. These are shown in
party bags as well as in flat purses and
handbags. All shades are popular in-
cluding black, brown, navy and grey.

Brocaded Leather for Novelties

Brocaded leather is becoming increas-
ingly popular as Spring advances, es-
pecially where novelty goods are con-
cerned. This satiny and luxurious fab-
ric develops most successfully into flat
hand purses, memo pads, etc. It comes
in many delicate shades resembling rich
silk. Spider grain leather was used to
make a large and unusually clever party
box, designed in such a way that the two
sides could be unfastened and the con-
tents reached with ease. Monte Carlo
grain was still another new leather em-
ployed to develop these novelties which
are all the rage at present in New York.
Lambskin makes a charming party case
with purse attached in dull grey. The
fittings in this, as well as the models al-
readv described are more luxurious than

for many seasons past, the mirrors,
vanity cases and perfume bottles, etc.,
being manufactured out of the best
materials, in many cases sterling or en-
amel finished. Miladi need no longer
carry a miscellaneous assortment of
toilet accessories in her bag, with dis-
astrous results to the other contents,
for the reason that in the newest spring
bags all the fittings are placed in pro-
tected sections of the interior, and the
mirror is very often cleverly concealed
in the outside of the bag so that it is
not even necessary to lift it out for use.

Many unusual bags were noticed in
Florentine finished brocaded leather
while others were in process of manu-
facture out of Elite grain, in new tones
which are heightened by a metallic finish.
Boarskin will likewise be much used in
rich plain shades of blue, red, green and
brown.

Genuine Morocco appears in several
distinguished models which are superbly
finished in shot silk effects. One such
bag was unusual by reason of the fact
that it contained no fewer than eight
different sections, each of which was
roomy and easily accessible, yet the bag
had the fashionable flat appearance.
(Continued on page 84)

Embroidered anklets are a novelty shown
this season in silk hosiery. This model is
entirely hand embro'dered to reproduce
the effect of jewels in rich colors. —
Hosiery Designed and Shown by Cour-
tesy of the Celtic Knitting Company,
Montreal.

Dnj Goods Review

ACCESSORIES

Sport Collar Has

Big Innings

Bramley Is Popular Because It Suits
Sports Clothes— Called "The Col-
legian" in U. S.
Ohe might almost say that in some
circles the Bramley collar is being pro-
moted to the exclusion of every other
type. A buyer who has just returned
from New York reports that this is true
in that city too. Most stores there call
it the Collegian. The reason for the
impetus that is given this spring to
the Bramley or Collegian is that it is
particularly suited to the sport type of
suit which is being made of homespun
or tweed and looks well with both the
Tuxedo and the sMp-on sweater. Many
manufacturers are featuring vestees
with the collar. There is a great deal
of variety in the way of ornament and
material in fact nearly every maker has
something which is his own in the way
of design. One importer is stressing
suede and others are making theirs of
linen, fancy cotton and piques, because
they believe they are particularly suited
to this season of the year. The bright
shades are shown because it is expected
that many of the sweaters worn will be
made of dark wools. Jade, orchid, cin-
namon, rose, canna and yellow are prob-
ably seen most of all. One collar in the
natural shade has inserts of filet and
another shows a motif of Irish lace.

Jabot Coming Back

A Toronto manufacturer who makes
a special point of introducing every-

A novelty in the Bramley collar. Shoe
eyelets have been used to make a very
effective design. They are rust-proof. —
Shown by Phoenix Novelry Company,
Toronto.

thing new in neckwear at the first pos-
sible moment, has made up a net guimpe

Two of a French collection of girdles just arrived in Toronto. The one
on the left is made of the new "square round" beads in black and white.
It hooks in front, the ends extending from the waist almost to the knees.
The girdle on the right is of black jet and wood beads, with a relieving
design in yellow, red, green and white ones. The flat portion at the front
is a very new feature. — Shown by Sterling Lace and Novelty Co.,

Toronto.

with a jabot, which he believes will be
good this summer and fall. The day
that this type of collar returns, will be
a gala one for the neckwear man, as
there was never a time when neckwear
was so universal as when these were in
before. If Paris decides against the
boat-shaped neck and the large round
one, there is every reason to think that
neckwear will come back into its own.
And, after all, nothing is as feminine as
the V neck with the pretty collar and
many wome.n are complaining against
the wide neck which is often uncomfort-
able and becoming to very few. Manu-
facturers did try to make collars which
would fit on these wide necks but it was
found almost impossible because they
vary so much in size and shape.

The Peter Pan collar is selling well
particularly to manufacturers of misses'
and children's clotthes. It is featured in
sports flannel in most of the popular
bright shades.

For wear with the jumper dresses,
guimpes with sleeves are shown. Some
are of organdy and others of Georgette
and net. One manufacturer is making
up quantities of cotton loop which is
narrow braid'-like banding, usually of
organdy and in all colors. It is used
very effectively in, one or two colors on
these guimpes and the few retailers who
have seen it like it very well.

Salesmen who are out with spring
neckwear, report excellent business in
the larger places. Montreal and Ottawa
are taking particular notice of the lines
offered.

A Novelty Lace of Wool

A Toronto importer has just brought
back with him from France a sample
of lace made of wool. It is done on a ma-
chine in the same way as silk or cot-
ton. The sample he has is of an, all-
over piece but he is expecting this lace
in flouncings and in laces of various
widths. The colors are ivorv, cham-
pagne, white and grey. Another piece
has a wool ground relieved by occasional
touches of silk thread, in a flower de-
sign. On coarse filet mesh this wool
lace is very effective. New York is fav-
oring it very highly as a pleasant re-
lief from the brilliant laces used this
year.

Handkerchiefs

Colored handkerchiefs are even
stronger than they were last fall, a re-
presentative of a dress accessory house
informed Dry Goods Review. Openwork
in almost every type is more popular
than the solid work. Applique squares
of a contrasting shade in the corners
of handkerchiefs are very good and the
basket designs and gay flowers are still
being asked for. The broad hem with
the double hemstitching is used more
than the narrow rolled hem, because it
gives handkerchiefs a more finished and
durable effect than the other.

J. C. McConnachie of New Glasgow,
Nova Scotia, has bee» appointed Mari-
time representative for Ham & Riley
Silk Co. of Toronto.

ACCESSORIES

Dry Goods Review

ACCESSORIES IN MONTREAL

(Continued from page 82)
Other soft effects were achieved in
India leather, in which the share was
achieved by clever handling of the
leather to imitate fabric.

The large leather shopping bag equip-
ped with car-ticket flap on the outside
and safety fastener is proving to be a
good seller already. These bags are
developed in smart tan or brown shades
in fancy leathers including the spiders.
Bags for Formal Use

For more formal use and to accompany
the summer costume of silk, etc., there
are many delightful little bags shown,
developed in rich moire faille and lined
in tangerine, ivory, etc. Also many
smart melon shaped bags are shown,
made of combinations of silk fabrics,
including - panel shaped protions of met-
allic brocade upon plain sections of har-
monizing satin. The frames which are
used with such bags are inconspicuous
and conform to the melon outline, being
finished merely by slender cords and
small silk tassels, but no large or heavy
tassels are now found upon the bottoms
of the bags. The bags are designed to
do away with the hard bottom effect en-
tirely. The silver of the frames is us-
ually chased or oxidized but the finish is
kept as quiet and inconspicuous as poss-
ible.

Washable Gloves

The new spring samples of washable
gloves from Paris have just arrived in
Montreal and are decidedly interesting
in point of novelty and originality. Both
silk and chamoisette varieties are rep-
resented in some half a dozen different
shades. The vogue for the flare cuff
seems to be definitely established, and
such a finish on the longer gauntlet is
very smart, especially when the flaring
section is attached to the glove proper
by means of a tiny tubular piping of
contrasting color. Some doubt is ex-
pressed here that this type of glove will
be appropriate with the prevailing styles
in sleeves for spring, but the coining
season will be very little different in
this respect than former years, when
Paris said one thing and New York an-
other. The gauntlet will be "the thing"
insofar as Canada is concerned.

The majority of the new gloves show
a tendency to follow the straight cuff
gauntlet effect with applique work and

cut work used as decorative features.
For example, on a smart pair of putty
colored gloves, a pattern resembling the
"sawtooth" was appliqued in black
silk to the edges of the glove all round.
This trimming was left free at the top,
being sewn at the edge only.

A considerable amount of chain stich-
ing was shown on other gloves, which
was carried right up the cuff to the
back of the hand. Other styles which
featured the turnback cuff were decor-
ated with small triangles, diamonds or
circles of dark fabric showing through
cutwork. Pearl domes were exclusively
employed as fasteners and in most
cases the duplex finger tip was featured.
Belts Return

On account of the almost universal
acceptance of the sweater or scarf for
sports wear belts have found favour
once more. A Montreal importer of
British leather goods has just received
a shipment of novelty belts especially
suitable for wearing on jumper dresses
or with scarves, etc. These are for the
most part of patent leather with lacings
or threaded effects of white kid which
are rather like hand embroidery in ef-
fect. Some belts of tan leather are
shown also, trimmed with blue contrasts
showing through cut work such as
triangles or circles. Plain buckles are
used. Th; prices on these new belts
show a surprising decline and the finest
specimens are obtainable for less than
sixty cents apiece.

RADIUM STILL VERY STRONG

(Continued from page 81)
Indian necklaces, red being probably
most prominent of all. Some of these
girdles hook neatly around the waist.
One collection of imported girdles
shows a tendency to utilize ribbon with
beads and metal. Faille ribbon is hand-
embroidered in a pattern of steel beads.
Streamers ending in heavy cut-steel
tassels hang from each side. Another
girdle in black and red has the long cas-
cade fringe and still another has huge
knobs of wood covered with tiny beads.
Crystal and Jade Earrings and Neck-
laces
Crystal and jade are the favorites in
ornaments a New York buyer declares.
Sometimes these are combined with
other semi-precious stones such as jet,

and onyx. Girdle, ear.inss, ring, neck-
lace, and comb are made to match. These
are worn wLh the simple j. of frocks,
otherwise the effect of the ornaments
will be completely lost. Earrings may
be in any way desirable as long as they
are large and have drops.

Combs may be of jet or jade as de-
scribed above and they may be of brill-
iants. They must above all give an ir-
idescent effect if Dame Fashion is to
smile upon them. They too, should be
large. The necklaces which are attract-
ing most attention are the combination
ones of pearl and crystal. Black silk
cords are used also finished with an
onyx oblong or a fringe of pearls. One
noticeable necklace was a silver chain
set with onyx.

Bags for fall are shown in the pouch
shape. Many flat bead envelopes are used
as well and some string bags are among
the best collections. Moire and faille
silk are promised to have a vogue and
there are many lovely bags being shown
already in these materials.

Where Should Novelties Sell Best?

A Toronto jeweller is of the opinion
that the place for novelties is not, as
many retailers and indeed manufactur-
ers .hink, the jewellry store. He savs
that last Christmas he made particular
note of the number of inexpensive nov-
elties he disposed of. They were few in
number as compared with those sold in
some of the small dry goods stores up-
town. For example, he ordered two
dozen ivory perfume novelties for holi-
day business and disposed of onlv eleven
of them while a friend of his who has a
general store on the outskirts of the
city sold more than three dozen. He be-
lieves that the same applies to lines like
necklaces, earrings and other ornaments.
People come into a jeweller's only when
they are prepared to buy expensive
things and to a department store or gen-
eral dry goods or accessory house when
they want the cheaper ornaments.

In connection with this, he said that
he believes many stores, especially in
smaller places, lose many opportunities
for sales in these things. Inexpensive
ornaments are usually picked up by
chance and who is better able to give
that chance than the man who supplies
the necessities like thread and shoes
and dress goods ?

New design in Peasant lace for making collars which conform to uvumal necklines, such as pointed, oval or square.
This is a new American pattern just imported by the John M. Garland Son and Co., of Ottawa.

Dry Goods Review

ACCESSORIES

Buy Direct from the Maker

Avenue
Bags

Swagger
Bags

Vanity
Purses

Lucille
Bags

Beauty
Boxes

Silk
Bags

Matinee

Fitted

Bags

Writing
Folios

Music
Rolls

Bill
Folds

Letter
Cases

Ladies'
Belts

Collar
Boxes

Children's
Purses

Made in Canada

MANUFACTURED BY

None Better Made

CANADIAN LEATHER PRODUCTS

LIMITED
144 FRONT STREET WEST ••ppmteun.c/w.on TORONTO
BUY DIRECT FROM THE

ACCESSORIES

Dry Goods Review

Gloves

Hosiery

Our affiliation with Hall, Acme,
Canada Limited, London, Ont.,
enables us to put before the trade
our own line — merchandise that
for material, style, finish and val-
ue, cannot be surpassed. Further,
it assures our customers of prompt
deliveries and an efficient sorting
service.

Staple and Fancy Lines
are now in Stock.

Acme Glove Works

LIMITED

MONTREAL

Drv Goods Review > « AC CESSORIES 87

IDEAL

Made in England.

Chamoisettes
Lisle Thread

For fit and finish there is no
popular-priced line to
equal these gloves for
ladies and children.

We are now taking orders
for

Spring Delivery

Acme Glove Works

LIMITED

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CORSETS AND LINGERIE

Dry Goods Review

Three Designs Featured for Spring

The Regulation Elastic-topped Corset, Another Design for Slight

Figures, And New Models for Heavy Figures — A Number of

Variations Offered — New Surgical Corsets — Some Changes Made

In Brassieres— Manufacturers Are Busy.

THE Province of Quebec is becom-
ing justly famed for its many
ranges of fine corsetry which are
now accepted by the trade as fully equal
if not superior to corresponding styles
put out in the United States. Spring
samples for 1922 are now ready and are
being shown to the trade, among which
are quite a few decided novelties.

The watchword continues to be "the
uncorseted effect" but as one le.ading de-
signer pointed out to Dry Goods Review,
not more than one woman out of ten in
Canada actually discarded corsets even
during the hot weather last summer.
Practically all who did give up boned
corsets adopted the corselette style, of
garment for the sake of the hose su
porlers and the brassiere effect. At
any rate, he concluded by emphasizing
the fact that business has been greater
than ever with his firm. This point is
corroborated by corset makers in Quebec,
Montreal and St. Hyacin'he, all of
whom are now working at full ca"
and turning out new models in greater
number than formerly.

Three General Styles

"We are making few changes in our
styles this Spring," said one of these
manufacturers, "'and I believe the same
is true of our competitors. We shall
continue to work on lines which con-
form to the natural lines of the body in
our different models. Generally speak-
ing I consider that there are three out-
standing models for next Spring which
represent distinct types, each giving the
desired s'raight lines. First, there is
the regulation elastic-topped corset in
either front or back laced effect, shown
in figured brocade, or plain fabric in
fairly long length skirt effect. This
corset features a comfortably low bust
and comes in either flesh or white.

"Another leader is designed for very
slight figures, which is a dainty girdle
model developed in rich silk brocade
edged with imported silk lace. The fea-
ture of this new model is the fact that
it closes at the left side by snap fasten-
ers set underneath self covered buttons
and has the usual 1 back lacing. Across the
front of the corset, there is inset a wide
panel of rubber webbing which prevents
any uncomfortable 'digging in' of the
boning, which is thus entirely eliminat-
ed. The garters are covered in heavy
corded ribbon which is shirred on and
finished with tiny bows. This^ model is
an exact copy of a Paris model import-
ed lately, and will probably rank as the
most beautiful style ever created in
Canada. It can be retailed for about
$7 a model, which is about half the
price of a similar design made in an-
other country.

"Then we are also showing new mo-
dels fcr the heavy figure as well," con-
tinued this authority. "In these styles
we are offering several variations among

The side closing is a new feature in cor-
sets, especially tvhen snap fasteners are
used. This model was developed in white
silk brocade with a wide front Insert of
webbing which prevents any discom-
fort. Silk torchon lace edges this model
and the suspenders are shirred with col-
ored ribbon — Designed and Fhown by
the E. T. Corset Company, St. Hyac-
inthe, Que.

which a reducing model is proving popu-
lar with the trade. It is full at the
bust and is cut higher above the waist
than the ordinary styles for Spring. This
model is skilfully cut so as to ensure
support and great strength against
strain, and in addition to being equipped
with 6 reinforced hose supporters is
finished with a wide abdominal belt of
surgical elastic about 3 inches wide
which hooks easily in front without any
difficulty and which gives a flat effect
very desirable for present styles."

Novelty Girdles

In addition to these three leading mo-
dels there are many other striking vari-
ations offered, differing here and there
from those described above. A girdle
of flesh brocade, for example, was
shown which featured two inserts of
webbing 'at either side of the front.
This model was scarcely boned at all
and was lightness personified. Another
girdle, also of pink brocade, had its
sides and hip portions made of wide
webbing. The brocade was employed
only at the back and front to ensure
flatness and better form. This model
laced in the back. Another front lace
model of flesh colored fibre silk brocade
featured three spiral bonings at each
side. Triangular sections of heavy
webbing were inserted on either side to
give the necessary stretch for bending
over. This corset is finished with 6
hose supporters, and while it may be
worn by a slender type it is ideal for the
more mature figure since the spiral bon-
ing, the elastic and the extra hose sup-
porters are decidedly good features.
The use of fibre brocade is growing in
popularity with Canadian women, since
it ensures a showy and luxurious finish
with no extra expense. Many women
are unwilling to pay for a satin corset
because it is difficult to launder proper-
ly, but with the art or fibre silk variety,
f v equent tubbings can be administered
with no detriment to the garment.

Surgical Corsets

The trade will be interested to hear
that it is now possible to obtain a ma-
ternity corset of very superior design
and quality, made by a leading Quebec
firm who have spent much time in per-
fecting their models. These are advis-
able in all cases of surgical operations
and are equipped with an underneath
adjustable band.

The use of elastic webbing is growing
in demand according to one corset manu-
facturer, while another is of the opinion
that ordinary models without elastic in-
serts are wanted. In the case of front
lace corsets it is now the rule rather
(Continued on page 89)

Dry Goods Review

CORSETS AND LINGERIE

Increasing Sales in Notions Dept.

Manageress of Notions Department Outlines Rules Enforced That
Make For Bigger Sales and Better Salespersons— Difference Be-
tween "Waiter" and Salesperson — Customers Come Into Store by
Invitation and Should So Be Treated

A TORONTO retailer declares that
the day of white muslin and cotton
underwear for everyday use, is
over. The whitewear sales of this year
have proved this to some extent. Even
older women like to wear silk under-
things. As a matter of fact they are
more economical than the cotton. Silk
underwear may be worn without ironing-
Moreover selections of very plain pat-
terns may be made in these without giv-
ing too much severity to an outfit. One
manufacturer says he sells two dozen
hemstitched garments to every dozen
of the lace-trimmed. Cotton underwear
on the other hand must have some trim-
ming or it is decidedly unattractive. Yet
this very trimming shortens the life of
the cotton garment which is very durable
in itself. A salesgirl who has catered to
women's requirements in underwear, for
many years in a store in Toronto, says
that even the old ladies nowadays like
the silk and give as their excuse that it
is softer. Of course the dye question
plays a prominent part in the promotion
of the sale of silk. The dyes on the mar-
ket now will renew the life of silk many
times, while they do not behave nearly so
well with cotton materials.

Novelties Sell Underwear

There are few departments of women's
wear which depend on display as much
as the silk lingerie department. The
manager of the undergarment branch of
a Toronto house, informed Dry Goods Re-
view that a display case for novelties
was almost necessary in a store which
sells any quantities. At the time, he had
on display a smoking set, which was little
different from a two piece pyjama out-
fit. Not ten women in Toronto he be-
lieved would buy this smoking set in a
month, yet it attracted the necessary
attention to his department. Women like
to be shocked and many a woman active
in the Women's Christian Temperance
Association, would stop to view open-
mouthed, another evidence of the un-
Christianlike tendencies of to-day and
then turn to the purchase of a white
muslin nightgown with high neck and
long sleeves. He makes it a point' to find
a novelty at least every ten days for a
special case which is placed just at the
head of a main staircase and near the
rest room.

What Are They Wearing?

To the question, "which is the latest
color in silk lingerie?" all the manufac-
turers are answering "black." Canadian
women, however, are too conservative for
black to take a very strong hold this sum-
mer, they declare, so they are making it
up in high-priced novelty garments and

the big stores are featuring these. The
colors that are really being worn are
orchid, jade green, taupe and lemon. For
the first time in many years, pink has
to work for its laurels, although it can
by no means be said to have disappear-
ed.

Colored pongee is getting stronger as
the Spring approaches. This is not only

THREE DESIGNS FEATURED

(Continued from page 88)
than the exception to find the models
equipped with a front shield to protect
the laces from scoring the flesh when
tied. These shields are sewn right to
the corset and no longer attached by
means of snaps.

Speaking of the enormous vogue for
girdle corsets, even by quite stout wo-
men, this manufacturer pointed out that
the coming spring and summer are ex-
pected to be great sports seasons and it
is felt that the girdle is especia'ly
adapted to accompany the new knicker
suits or regulation sports attire. Then
again it was stated that the demand for
light corsets from women who hitherto
have worn no corsets at all, or else have
been wearing models which are too hea-
vy for comfort, is steadily increasing,
and both these classes prefer the girdle
because it is light during warm weather
yet is now designed to give real support.

Brassieres Show Changes
Brassieres are also showing certain
modifications this Spring designed to
still further accentuate the flat front
effect so essential to the proper appear-
ance of sports clothes. Realization of
the tremendous market potentialities of
a brassiere designed to appeal to the
slender figure is another factor which is
stimulating business unexpectedly. The
bandeau is practically supreme as re-
gards style and an interesting number
introduced by a Quebec firm features an
elastic waist line which is made to fit
over the new topless corsets. This
number is attractively developed in bro-
cades and satin, in some cases lace-
trimmed. Another new bandeau re-
sembles a modified corset brassiere and
has an extra section fitting over the
diaphragm and well down over the hips.
It is not boned or inset with webbing
but it is finished with suspenders and an
adjustable shoulder strap, the latter a
very practical feature. This can be
worn without a corset and is recom-
mended for sports, negligee or bathing
use.

That business in corsets and 1 bras-
sieres will be extremely good this spring
is the unanimous opinion of several
manufacturers.

seen in the natural shades but in almost
all the high colors. The pongee lines are,
for the most part, tailored, as they seem
to take the place of the cotton garment
for everyday use, while the wash silk
and crepe de chine is more elaborate.

Philippine and French Lingerie

It is a strange thing that while both of
these lines have always a steady mar-
ket, the public will not pay as high a
price a s they do for the best silk gar-
ments. The average customer wants to
buy them from the merchant for $2.50
or at the most $5.00.

As to petticoats, one manufacturer
says that the combination camisole-
petticoat, or as it used to be called, the
Princess slip, will be stronger than the
single petticoat. This will be a pleasant
thing for both manufacturer and retail-
er as it demands a higher price than the
one piece garment does.

Built-up Shoulder in Everything
The surplice shoulder or as the under-
wear manufacturers call it, the built-up
shoulder in camisoles, has proven itself
so well with the trade, that manufactur-
ers are trying it in everything — chenises,
nightdresses, pyjamas and princess slips.
The vogue for "boat-shaped" necks in
dresses, is no doubt mostly responsible
for this. The strap always showed be-
cause it came too far in from the should-
er. This was of course, necessary, in or-
der to hold up the garment. With the
surplice shoulder, however, the upper
part, coming as it does from the middle
of the garment and reaching to the very
point of the shoulder there is a fair
amount of security and at the same time
everything is hidden.

Pyjamas are selling even beyond ex-
pectations of last month. The demand
is for the trouser cuffs especially in the
black and bright shades.
Elastic Girdles Stronger This Summer
Corset makers are looking for a de-
mand for girdles this year far beyond
that of last season. It was mostly Ameri-
can tourists who bought them then and
Canadian women did not show any lean-
ing toward them until rather late in
August. Propaganda in the United States
by leading manufacturers may have stop-
ped the spread of the girdle there for
this year, but as there has been little
talk against them on this side, it is be-
lieved they will go in Canada.

Measuring the Uncorseted Figure

A woman who has made a study of

corset fitting for many years, says that

clerks will never attain any degree of

perfection in fitting, unless they measure

(Continued on page 108)

90 CORSETS AND LINGERIE • Dry Goods Review

"The Diamond Gore"

A Warner patent, brought out
this season, and found only in

Jfjarher's

CORSETS

For many years the problem in long skirted corsets has been
to keep them snug around the lower hips. Elastic has been
used extensively, but up until a few months ago, when the
Warner designers worked out a method of cutting and shap-
ing the elastic inserts to perfectly hug the figure at all times
and in all positions, the secret had not been found.

This feature, "The Diamond Gore," is being shown this
season in both our Canadian and United States lines, and has
met with instant popularity.

It is used in back-lace, front-lace, and elastic girdles in our
Canadian made line as follows: —

Style 364, Pink Coutil, Back lace, sizes 20-28, $24 doz.
0985, Pink Brocade, Back lace, sizes 20-28, $42 doz.
547, Pink Coutil, Front lace, sizes 22-30, $36 doz.
E-932, Elastic Girdle, Pink, sizes 22-30, $36 doz.

The Warner Brothers Company

356 St. Antoine St. Montreal, P.Q.

Dry Goods Review

CORSETS AND LINGERIE

* 1 5^^feJ^^^^<t--^^ , %_-^^t^^^ ' tl jfS

A glance at this picture will show you why merchants collectively are so enthusiastic about

GOSSARD

FRONT
LACING

CORSETS

It is an established fact that whenever you find a store or specialty shop building a corset
business of the lasting kind, you are likely to find Gossards the featured corset of the
department.

The majority of corset buyers consider these original front lacing corsets the backbone of
their business because of the frequent turnovers they are able to accomplish with them.
This is due to the universal demand that exists for Gossard Corsets and the complete satisfaction
that goes with every sale.

The Canadian f-f.W (n lossard (p. umra

366-37i West Adelaide St., Toronto, Canada

CORSETS AND LINGERIE

Dry Goods Review

Boosting Spring Business

np HE RE'S every promise that this
Spring's sales will show a decided
improvement over those of past
months, but you can't do a big business
unless you've got the goods.

There are two things about P. C. Cor-
sets that will recommend them to your
customers, — they fit the form and
they fit the pocketbook.

Women haven't got out of the habit of
looking for value in the goods they buy
and they are realizing more and more
that in P. C. Corsets they do get value.

This factor combined with the abso-
lute wearing satisfaction which P.C.'s
afford should make them one of the
biggest sales builders in your store.

Mail your orders to

Montreal, Quebec

Toronto

THE

Parisian Corset
Mfg. Co., Limited

QUEBEC

Montreal Toronto

Style No. 970

GUARANTEED

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Bankrupt Stocks

Standard Factories of Canada

and

Exclusive Ladies Wear Ltd.

held by

The Merchants Bank
of Canada

have been turned over to us for disposal.
These stocks consist of:

WOOLLENS

DRESSES

REEFERS

PIECE GOODS

JUMPERS

LADIES*

LACES

WAISTS

READY TO WEAR

COATS

SKIRTS

ETC., ETC.

We are unable to send samples or accspt any mail

order. It will be to your advantage to come to

Montreal and inspect these stocks.

Merchants Liquidators

Reg'd

SOMMER BLDG.

MONTREAL

Are the newest creations of the
season at prices that mean im-
mediate business for the buyer.
We are particularly attentive to
quality and workmanship.

We can suit you with furs for
every season of the year.

Visit us or send us your inquiries.

Our representative will call — See Samples

It will pay you.

THE SANDHAM CO.,

59-61 Wellington St. W.

Toronto

Canadian Made"
COTTON BATTING

The higher grades of
snow-white Cotton Bat-
ting are being demanded
by retail customers

VICTORY

Small Size Batts.

POLAR BEAR

Comforter Size Batts
are superior to the finest
imported Batts and the
price to the merchant is
especially attractive in
comparison.

Your wholesaler will supply

you with these lines, also

the following

NORTH STAR

CRESCENT

PEARL

K. P.

Small Sty'e
Batting

Comforter
Style Batting

THE DOMINION
WADDING CO.

LIMITED

MONTREAL

FURS

Dry Goods Review

Canadian Women Will Still Wear Soft Furs;

f^ Lamb for Older Women, Soft Furs for Younger

Adapt Themselves Very Readily to Styles Desired by Canadian
Women — Toronto Designer Believes Dolman Type has Limita-
tions in Canada — Increasing Demand for Muskrat and Coon —
Some Furriers Say Cheap Prices Are Not Good Custom-getters.

A DESIGNER for a Toronto fur
manufacturer says, that while
lamb will without doubt replace
seal for the nv'ddle-aged and older
woman's coat next winter, it will not be
worn by the "flapper," who, after all, is
the leading lady nowadays in the world
of fashion. He believes that lamb will be
considered too severe for the younger
set, particularly as it is not as well
suited to the extreme styles which many
women demand. The sale of 'amb, he ad-
mits, will eclipse any one of the other
furs in this country at any rate. Amer-
ican women, particularly those of New
York, Chicago and the other large cities,
are more inclined to favor the wrap than
Canadian women are, and for that rea-
son will buy the soft furs again next
winter.

He explains the fact that while the
wrap style has been in vogue on the other
side for more than two seasons, almost
to the exclusion of the coat, without be-
ing adopted here, in the following way:
the fur garment, whether it be wrap or
coat, is worn by the wealthy women who
frequent Fifth Ave. and Michigan
Plvd , and not by the middle c^ss which
wears them here. There is, therefore, not
as much reason that fur garments be
nractical in those cities as there is in
Canada. Th ; s seems a very reasonable
explanation. Outside of those seen on the
fashionable thoroughfares, not many
women wear all-fur garments in New
York. It would be almost safe to say that

four girls in Toronto, who are earning
ordinary salaries, wear fur coats for
every one in New York. Dry Goods Re-
view made the same observation while
on a recent visit to Detroit. This is the
reason also, why the seal imitations so
very common in the United States were
not so noticeable here. Over there one can
either afford an extravagant f arment or
a very cheap one; in Canada, few of us
are very wealthy and poverty is less
common also, because the average woman
can live fairly comfortably on the salary
she earns.

This designer is of the opinion that
the dolman type will never become real-
ly popular here. Our Anglo-Saxon an-
cestors have given us a desire for utility
and service in everything we prize, which
finds expression in the things we wear.

Coon and Muskrat Better Than Ever
Muskrat has by no means reached the
zenith of its popularity, Dry Goods Re-
view was told. For the younger girls it
will be better than ever next year, be-
cause of the high price of seal and the
fact that lamb will not be used as a sub-
stitute altogether for seal.

Coon is the coming fur for coats that
are higher-priced than muskrat. The
blends and the matching of the coo l to-
day are far superior to that which was
on the market a year ago and there is no
longer the complaint made that it is cum-
bersome. Designers are taking particu-
lar care that coon be cut as carefully as

lamb or seal and the results are worth
while.

Mink will be used again in coats. There
has been a general advance of ten per
cent, in the price of this fur but furriers
believe that there will be many women
in the next few years buying it because
they are tired of the cheaper ones and
the other better grade skins such as mole
and squirrel are unserviceable. There is
an increase in the call for some of the
expensive furs for trimming. Ermine is
being used and so is Russian sable.

High Prices Attract m Furs

Whatever the feeling is among retail
ers in general as to the popular price fot
their merchandise, furriers agree tha 1
women who buy their line, particularly
those who want good ones are often de-
terred from buying by substantial reduc-
tions. During the usual clearance sales
of January and February, price is prob-
ably the big feature but for all the year
round business, many merchants declare
that women are not attracted by bar-
gains. One furrier told of a woman who
refused to buy two Russian sable skins
from him for $1,100 and purchased two
others from another store for $1,500. The
first two skins were, if anything, a little
better than the ones she bought because
this merchant had examined the four
very carefully at the wholesale house
from which they came, but his low valu-
ation had hurt them in her estimation.
(Continued on page 109)

"OUR LADY OF THE SHOWS."
To provide a fitting background in honor of the liand-.cme silver trophu shown in the foreground of the above
picture, the Freiman Company of Ottctica. staged this nalistic snow storm. The cup was awarded to the Freiman
-Snow Shoe Club for making the best showing on na'adc.The central figure is wearing the Snoiv Shoe Club uni-
form of blue and while. Windoiv dressed by Mr. Griest, Display Manager.

Dry Goods Review

FURS

Quebec Trappers for Quarter Century

Have Sold Furs to Lanoix Co. St. Hyacinthe

Fur Specialists and Large Retailers of Headwear — Sold 10,000
Straw Hats During 1921 — Use the Movies as Medium of Ad-
vertising — Very Careful Selection of Furs — The Home of Many

Tourists

THE habitant trappers of Quebec
who depend to a great extent up-
on the money they receive for
their furs, have for the past quarter of
a century brought the best of thei^-
pelts to a certain small store located
in St. Hyacinthe which is about an
hour's train journey from Montreal.
This store, which is Known by the name
of Lanoix Company Ltd., is familiar
to both the trapper and the wearer of
furs as one of the best places to obtain
fair and generous treatment, and as a
consequence, it is not surprising to hear
that practically every fur coat, every
scarf or neckpiece worn by men or wo-
men some twenty miles around comes
from this 'store. "We are known for
just two things," remarked the proprie-
tor of this successful business tD Dry
Goods Review. "First of all we are fur
specialists and we also lay claim to be
the largest retailers of headwear for

men and children in this part of the
country. We find that these two
branches of business work in together
splendidly both summer and winter, so
that there is never a slack season with
us at any time."

"Value Plus" in Service
The present owner of the store, J. B.
Durocher, took over the business seve:*al
years ago with the intention of carrying
only these two lines. "After analysing
carefully the purchasing power in this
locality I realized that we must under-
sell the big city stores 'and also provide
equally good service. The business is
therefore conducted along the policy of
'value plus' which means that we are not
content with merely selling one hund-
red cents worth of goods for a dollar;
we make sure that the custcmer's goo;!
will is ours for all time, and also, what-
ever she wants she shall have."

This sounds like a big contract to
carry out, especially when it is remem-
bered that the store is comparatively
small in size. The front part is practically
all devoted to the display of fine felt
hats for men, together with caps and
children's headwear. This is, however, a
minor display during the winter months
as furs play the important role, but in
summer the store blossoms out into a
veritable garden of straw hats for men
and last year all records were broken
when the sales of these hats surpassed
the ten thousand mark. This figure,
by the way, was the equivalent of all
the other hat sales in the town put to-
gether, and proved that where hats
were concerned also the townspeople of
St. Hyacinthe prefer to purchase at
one store only.

To touch on the selling methods of
the Lanoix store, it might be mentioned
(Continued on page 109)

Interior of the Lanoix Regd. store of St. Hyacinthe, Que., showing how the stock is displayed openly for the con-
venience of purchasers. This small store does an enormous business in furs and men's hats, all business being

iiansacted in the space here shown.

FANCY GOODS AND TOYS

Dry Goods Review

Important Facts About Perfumes

Knowledge The Only Road to Effective Salesmanship — How the

Sale of Perfumes and Toilet Accessories is Increasing — The Cost

of Oils — Difference Between Toilet Water and Florida Water —

Some Helpful Hints For Salespeople

THE manager of a large firm in
Canada engaged in making toilet
accessories, informs Dry Goods
Review that his sales in perfumes and
toilet waters, have increased from $8,000
in 1913 to $500,000 last year. This
gives some idea of the amount used by
Canadian women to-day. It shows as
well, the field which merchants have in
this class of merchandise. There is
every reason to believe that dry goods
stores and department stores are not
the least to have profited by this de-
mand of recent years. Outside of the
toilet goods sold by druggists, dry
goods merchants are the only cnes
handling them to any extent. Though
this increase is so marked during the
last eight years because in the first
place, makers and retailers are push-
ing this class of merchandise and in the
second place, the better grades are the
only ones that women will buy.

A man who has carried these lines for
several years and increased his turn-
over by one half every year since he
went into business, says that he be-
lieves that a fair amount of technical
knowledge is very necessary on the part
of the saleswoman behind the toilet
counter. Customers like to ask about
perfumes^, powders and creams, because
there is so much mystery connected with
them and because women are always
ready to hear of things which will en-
hance their appearance.

Cheap Perfumes and Good Ones

There are many clerks who have very
little idea of the difference between per-
fumes. This is easily understood since
few have the opportunity of seeing how
they are made. A representative from
Dry Goods Review made a visit the
other day to a manufacturer of toilet
accessories. He asked for information
in regard to several* lines, which he
considered would be of value to sales-
people who do not pretend to be drug-
gists but are cnly attempting to help
increase the sales of toilet goods in their

BEADS

Lustre Beads

Bugle Beads Wood Beads

Pearl Beads

Latest Novelties in

Bead Necklaces And

Girdles

Send your requirements to us

Prices Right

THE BEAD HOUSE

R. A. PHILLIPS

77 York Street, Toronto, Ont.

stores by knowing some important facts
in regard to them.

What constitutes the real difference
between perfumes which retail for 50
cents an ounce and those which sell fcr
three dollars? was one of the questions
asked. There are two things respon-
sible. These are the quality of the
flower oils used and the degree of pop-
ularity which an odor attains. The first
reason seems to the casual observer by
far the more important but every manu-
facturer knows that sometimes the most
expensive odors will not command a
good price because they do not meet with
favor. Moreover, perfumes come and
go just like every other thing. Odors
which sold strongly two years ago are
very often not heard of to-day.

Of course the flower oils are the
standard by which the original price is
determined As the alcohol used is net
very different in different perfumes and
as alcohol constitutes 90 per cent of the
quantity of perfume made, it can be
readily seen how important that little
10 per cent, of oil is. The cost of gath-
ering natural flowers varies .consider-
ably. For example, two tens of violets
are; needed to make one pound of oil.
Then the refining process is very ex-
pensive. Some of the very cheap oils
undergo only one process while the best
grades are passed through five or six
times.

Artificial Oils Dear as Natural Ones

Many people are under the impres-
sion that the better grades of perfumes
contain the natural essence and that ar-
tificial oil is used altogether in cheap
perfumes. This is not always the case.
While the natural oils may be just as
dear and foir that reason, are sometimes
found in the very best perfumes, the
process of refining is mostly responsible
for the^ final cost of the artificial oil.

While popularity has a great influ-
ence on the price of a perfume, manu-
facturers have found that only those
grades made from the best materials,
whether they be natural or artificial, are
liked. Some idea may be obtained of
the cost of oils, when one considers that
containers holding 1 one pound of the
better oils are valued by the manufact-
urer at $350. One room measuring
about twelve feet by seven, contained,
Dry Goods Review was informed, $60,-
000 worth of oils. These were both
natural and artificial.

Natural oils are obtained from flowers,
fruits and animals, scattered all over
the world. Our informant says that
Greenland is the only country he knows
of, which does not produce something of
value to the perfumer. The average

perfume contains from twenty to twenty-
five, different odors. There are three in-
gredients which are common to all ex-
cept probably some of the very lowest
grades. These are musk, civet and
ambergris. Chemists declare that one
grain of musk will not lose its odor in
a hundred years. Moreover it gives
that sticking quality which is needed in
perfume. In the days of early Greece
and Rome, musk played an important
part in the making of precious oils and
perfumes and modern science has been
able to find nothing which will take its
place. Musk is obtained from the plant
of that name which grows in northern
China.

Civet is taken from the civet cat of
South America and ambergris comes
from the oil glands of the whale cap-
tured off the coast of Iceland and North-
ern Norway.

Flower oils are distilled in Grasse,
France. They are then shipped to the
manufacturer who removes two unneces-
sary ingredients. These are wax, which
is useless because it is odorless and resin
which stains and is greasy. Wax is
removed by freezing; some manufact-
urers nowadays use lime in freezing the
oils.

Many of the fruits used in making
perfumes come from Italy. These are
distilled in Messina.

Toilet Water and Florida Water

What are the chief differences be-
tween perfume, toilet water and Florida
water? Toilet water is perfume with
a small percentage of alcohol and a
large proportion of water. Florida
water is a special toilet water containing
eight or nine essential oils. The pro-
portion of alcohol and water is about
the same in toilet water as in Florida
water. The fact that these are diluted
of course, makes them much weaker than
perfume but the small percentage of al-
cohol used is also responsible for the
weaker odor.

Travellers Now Out with
Complete Lines

French Ivory.

Greeting: Cards and Post Cards for all
occasions.

Purses and Wallets.

Pennants, Cushions and Textile Nov-
elties.

Supplies for Celebrations, Old Boys'
Reunions, etc.

Souvenir Novelties (a tremendous
variety.)

Christmas Stockings.

Conservo Lunch Sets, Splashers, Table
Sets, Infants' Bibs and Sets.
The product of five factories we own
or control \

Pugh Specialty Co., Ltd.

38 to 42 Clifford St., Toronto, Canada

Dm Goods Review

FANCY GOODS AND TOYS

All Aboard Across Canada

Canadian toymakers closed their ex-
hibition of "Made in Canada" toys on
February 15. This marks the first at-
tempt by manufacturers in this country
in the way of a joint effort to show the
retail trade and the public what has
been accomplished. It shows as well, the
extent to Which Canada has grown away
from dependence on German, Japanese
and American sources for her toys.
There were nearly twenty firms repre-
sented in the exhibition, which occupied
the whole ground floor of the Queen's
Hotel, Toronto.

There was shown every manner of
toys and like novelties which might be
classed as fancy goods and china. Glass-
ware, pottery, lamps and silverware
were displayed. Buyers from all over
this country and from the United States
and Great! Britain, expressed their sur-
prise at the quality and variety of the
goods manufactured in Canada. One
retailer from Moncton, N. B., said that
he had had no idea of the extent! to
which manufacturers were making these
lines. When salesmen came to him in-
dividually, he had never been able to
form a complete opinion as to Canadian
toys and fancy goods but displayed as
they were at this exhibiiiion, to the very
best advantage and at one time, he dis-
covered exactly where certain lines he
wants, are to be obtained.

In games especially there are several
points worthy of note. When children
in this country were dependent on for-
eign games, they found little which cor-
responded to their everyday amuse-
ments. Now that Canadian designers
are working on these, games which
every fullblooded boy and girl likes in
the outdoors are being made in minia-
ture. For example baseball. One de
signer has a baseball game which is
even being taken up by veterans of the
professional league.

Canadian dolls are becoming better
looking every day; and they are just as
clever as any French, German or Amer-
ican dolls. One firm displayed a doll
which walked as well as a three year
old child if held by the hand. There
were several talking and crying dolls
too, which were the peers of any im-
ported ones.

Vetcraft Work of Special Merit

The display by this firm whose work-
ers are veterans of the Great War, de-
serves special mention. The copper and
brasswork were remarkably well done
and the variety offered bo ih in price
and articles were suited to the needs of
every type of store dealing in fancy
lines.

Another firm is making a child's tray
which attracted the attention of visit-
ors. It has- a little trough which pre-
vents tlhe spoiling of the tablecloth if
something is spilt on the tray and it
fastens to the edge of the table.

A firm in London, Ont., is specializ-
ing in Wedgewood china in the Mikado
pat/tern and in the original rich blue

wi.h which this china was associated
before so many imitations came on the
market. Several other lines of porce-
lain and china in beautiful- colors were
exhibited by the same company.

The boudoir lamps shown by one ex-
hibitor deserve special mention. They
are about eighteen inches high and have
a parasol held open above the figure.

Building For The Future

While several manufacturers express-
ed disappointment in the number of r0
tailers who visited them, they were
agreed that this was ;he only real meth-
od of educating Carfadians to look here
before asking for foreign goods. That
the public appreciated the opportunity,
was evident from the number of visit-
ors on the nights the exhibition was
ihrown open to them.

Not this year or probably next year,
will ihe effect be felt but as one manu-
facturer expressed it, "in ten years this
exhibi.ion will pay for tlhe cost and
trouble, a hundred fold." There wasi
not one exhibitor to whom Dry Goods
Review was speaking, who did not in-
tend to exhibit next year. In fact it
is believed thatt the number of those
coming into the show in 1923 will be
doubled.

Cire Ribbons In Paris

Straw Embroidery as Trimming —

Conditions Regaining Normal

"Paris is sponsoring cire ribbons of

all colors and widths," declared Mr.

Zabler of Muser Brothers of Montreal

to Dry Goods Review this month, on his

return from an extended trip to Europe
which included v.s.ts to London, Paris,
Brussels and St. Gall.

The vogue for fancy ribbons of all
sorts was an outstanding fe.uaie, ac-
cording to Mr. Zabler, whb commented
upon the fact that picot edged ribbons
and wide moire effects are selling as
well as ever. The demand for millinery
ribbons seems inexhaustible, and in this
connection, the novelty cire effects are
exceedingly beautiful.

Laces are still another feminine ac-
cessory which is enjoying a wide vogue
on the other side, he said. Practically
every smart Parisienne was wearing
black radium lace or one of the numer-
ous cire laces in some form or other.
Beaded effects were also very good in
Paris and it is thought that ihese will
continue in popularity another y< -

One of the newest trimming effects,
observed Mr. Zabler, which seem to be
used in a bewildering variety of forms
was that of straw embroidery. This
was employed with good effect upon
millinery, frocks, etc., in bright colors,
and seemed capable of infinite variety
in treatment.

Every smart woman wears silk hos-
iery in Europe, according to Mr. Zabler,.
who commented on the fact that woollen
hose are. not nearly so often seen there
as on this side. Heavy ribbed silk hose
are popular although somewhat costly
and are now coming into this country.
The present fad in footwear calls for
very elaborate slippers, many of which
have jewelled heels, studded wi h bril-
liants or other precious stones. Color-
ed leather heels are another pretty
(Continued on page 102)

JUST ARRIVED FROM SWITZERLAND
These handkerchiefs represent some of a new collection which should please
the trade.
Top Row — 1. White with pattern along four sides of border, in three colors.

2. Periwinkle hkie with Nottingham lace edge.

3. White with point lace edge and insert of filet.

4. Spring beauty shade with Nottingham lace edae-
Bottom Row — 5. Mauve with hand-crocheted floral design in while.

6. White with colored flowers and hand-drawn work.
7. Orange with blue basket design and blue thread running

through.
8. White with rose motif hemstitched on corner.

FANCY GOODS AND TOYS

Dry Goods Review

EASTER TOYS

AND NOVELTIES

Every child expects to receive an Easter Toy or basket of candy.
Do not be without this popular and profitable line.
We have a very complete assortment of Easter Novelties ready for
early shipment.

Our illustrated Spring circular
contains: —

Easter Chickens, Rabbits

Candy Boxes, Baskets

Artificial Flowers

Marbles and Allies

Skipping Ropes

NERLICH & CO.

146-148 Front St. W.
(Opposite Union Depot)

TORONTO

Dry Goods Review

FANCY GOODS AND TOYS

Buy the "Julian Sale" Line

For Fine Goods

Big Assortments

Attractive Values

Bags & Purses

And other lines of Leather Goods and Novelties

Note the dollar bill
pocket on the flap.

The Newest in Swagger Bags

Useful, practical, novel, dressy. A very unusual line in
shapes, styles, colors. The leathers include octopus, frog,
Monte Carlo and grained leathers in blue, brown, grey and
black. See this line.

Monte Carlo Bags

An attractive novelty —
the newest. Octopus, Al-
ligator and Spicier Web
Leathers.

Beautiful Silk Bags

Handsome Effects — in new
shapes and patterns; Black,
Brown, Blue, and Taupe.
No tassels.

See our Travellers, or write, phone or wire.

The Julian Sale Leather Goods Company, Limited

600 King Street, West, Toronto

100

FANCY GOODS AND TOYS

Dry Goods Review

Neckwear Wants of the Moment

Bramley Sets

Many new innovations in colored linens and
colored organdies.

Vestees

In net and effective colorings of organdy.

Gilets

Specially adapted for the Spring suit in net
and organdy.>

Dress Sets

To relieve the scmbreness of Spring colors,
in wide variety of color and style.

See our Salesman or Write for Assortment

Phoenix Novelry Company

New Address
22 Duncan Street at Adelaide TORONTO

SliSB

JULIEN GIGUET

2 Cours des Chartreux, Lyons

FRANCE

Manufacturers of

Gloves

For Men, Women and Children

CHAMOISETTE— for Ladies and Men only,
in all sizes. The reinforced finger-tips
are an added sales attraction.

SILK — made in all sizes and also with re-
inforced finger-tips. The quality of
these gloves, the workmanship and the
finish, are all that could be desired.

LISLE THREAD— for Children, in all sizes.
Durable and well able to stand the
wear and tear to which children's gloves
are subject.

Sole Agents for Canada :

M. CHASSAGNE, LIMITED

45 St. Alexander Street

MONTREAL

NOVELTIES

from

Canada's Oldest and Orig-
inal Trimming House

Cords, Fringes, Girdles, Fancy Braids,
Tassels, Ornaments and Yard Trim-
mings in Wool, Tinsel and Silk Effects.

Our Policy has always been "Honest
Goods at Honest Prices." We intend to
continue this Policy.

There is a special finish about the
Moulton Line of Trimmings that gives
satisfaction.

The Moulton

MANUFACTURING CO.. Ltd.
4 Inspector St., Montreal

Dry Goods Review

FANCY GOODS AND TOYS

101

WE HAVE BUILT UP
A REPUTATION ON

BUTTONS

Buyers come to us for the latest fan-
cies as well as for regular staples.
They know we can cater to every de-
mand with our wide range of these
important accessories.

Let us help you round out your stock.

Button Sales Limited

66 Wellington St. W. Toronto

Manufacturers and Importers of
Ivory, Pearl, Celluloid and Composition Buttons

CfjattHon, jWoulp,&ous#eU c*e.

Silk Manufacturers

Factories at: LYONS, TARARE,
VEYRINS, CORBELINS(France)

p t, RIS CREPES,

MUSLINS.

SATINS,

DAMASKS.

LONDON

LYONS

NICE

NEW YORK

BROCADES

Newtst Creations

Canadian Representative: M. AUBIN
46 St. Alexander St., MONTREAL

MILAN

Ladies' Dress
GIRDLES

We have in stock a
splendid line of Girdles
at popular prices, and
in the wanted colors.

They are in demand now
and will 'be good all
season.

We will be pleased to
send you a sample
assortment on approval.

wrinch, McLaren

LIMITED

120 Wellington Street W.,
TORONTO

Sole Agents for

Lady Dainty Hair Nets

102

NOTIONS

Dry Goods Review

Spring Brings Activity in Notions

Some Factories Have Work to Keep Them Busy Till August —
Corset Trimmings Are Becoming Big Factor in Trade — Manu-
facturer Explains Reason for Few Cotton Novelties in White Wear
— Revival of Laces Comes With The Spring

SPRING is the time of the year the
potions counter gets its deserved
inning-s in most stores. This season
will be no exception. A manufacturer
informed Dry Goods Review the other
day that he has enough work ahead of
him to last until August. Moreover
he says that at no time since the buyers'
strike began last yeai - , has he had less
than sixty per cent, of his factory help
working- a 'l the time. Each season there
are new developments in things used in
dressmaking and fancy work. One of
his best lines is name labels. These are
of silk and of cotton and go, for the
most part, to cloak, suit, fur and under-
wear manufacturers. The wholesale mil-
linery houses of course order a great
many, both for themselves and for their
clients. In this connection, he empha-
sized the fact that Canadian milliners
ars using labels much mors than they
did a year ago. There is no reason why
milliners in small towns, carrying hats
which they have made themselves, should
not use these on every hat they sell.
They are not expensive and the advertis-
ing obtained by this simple method ia
enormous. The wholesale houses and the
large retail ones, never send out a hat
without a label in the crown of some
kind. French exporters are very careful
about this matter. There is, moreover,
a certain air of luxury about a hat with
a label.

Corset Trimmings Keep Canadian
Factory Busy

One factory which our representative
called upon recently, has been very busy
making corset trimmings, which include
lace," embroidery, hemstitching and tape
strings. The manager declared that
manufacturers in this country are giv-
ing him more business every year. In
fact there are very few corsetmakers in
this country, who import their trim-
mings.

The same firm makes tapes for men's
shoes but were it not for the corset
trimming business, Dry Goods Review
was told that they would have gone out
of business long ago. Men's shoes, like
so many other lines carried by men, have
been a dead issue so long that the tapes
sold have been very limited. There are
very few manufacturers who made
things for men a year ago, that have
not added one or more lines for women.
Notions houses are no exception.
Cotton Underwear Has Few Novelties
The representative of a large white
wear manufacturer, says that to the
complaint sometimes made that cheap
whitewear and cotton lines usually fol-
low the same style too carefully, his
answer is that makers of these things

would go out of business in a few months
if they attempted novelties. All the cot-
ton materials dropped so considerably
during the last year, that production on
a large scale is the only way to get
profit. This man makes five or six lines
of women's cotton drawers for ex-
ample. Before any of these styles
were attempted it was necessary to get
the approval of a large retailer or
wholesaler. Chance orders, such as are
taken on knitted wear lines or acces-
sories, would never pay. This factory
turns out 68 dozen drawers alone of one
style.

Aprons for nurses, maids and cooks,
come under the same category. Flan-
nelette nightgowns, which follow so
rigidly two or three styles, must also
be turned out in great quantities. Be-
cause of the drop in flannelette a few
weeks ago, from 37 cents to 16 cents,
there is even more need to speed up pro-
duction.

In most of notions and staple white-
wear lines, it is price which counts first.
A woman will debate with a clerk as
to whether she should pay 5 or 7 cents
for a yard of elastic and then move to
the veiling counter, where she will buy
the most expensive veil on the counter.

Cannot Make Cheap Pajamas

Many women ar e inquiring these days
for pajamas which can be bought as
cheap as nightdresses. Just now, only
women who are willing to pay about
half as much again as they do for the
ordinary nightgown, can wear pajamas.
Again, the reason was given that pro-
duction could never be made to such an

extent that the profit would be worth
while. There is nearly three times as
much work involved in making pajamas
as there is in nightdresses and in cotton
material, manufacturers would not at-
tempt these garments.

CIRE RIBBON IN PARIS

(Continued from page 97)
fashion used on sandals of patent leath-
er which are strapped in different novel
ways. The favored colors in silk hos
iery are sand and nude, both of which
form a striking contrast when worn
with patent slippers.

Conditions are quickly regaining nor-
mal insofar as living is concerned in
Europe. Hotel accommodation is still
somewhat costly but travel is back to
pre-war volume. So great is the traffic
between London and Paris that travel-
ers are obliged to secure seats in the
1st class compartments at least two
days before setting forth; otherwise they
must stand throughout the entire jour-
nev. This was a sate of affairs never
before experienced by visitors from th's
side before the war.

The Swiss franc being so unusually
. valuable, it has been difficult to secure
products which can be sold on this side
at the usual price, nevertheless, large
shipments of embroidered voiles and or-
gandies are expected to arrive soon
which will be exceptionally good values.
Embroidered organdies in the Swiss
permanent finish are considered newer
and more unusual for summer wear
than the staple plain effects, in Mr.
Zabler's opinion.

Here arc a few of the newest buttons in solid celluloid and carved ivory,
which have been designed for the spring cloak and suit trade.— From the
Button Sales Limited, Toronto.

Dry Goods Review'

NOTIONS

103

Plan to Meet Big Competition

Method Followed by Toronto Merchant to Combat ,..<«

Downtown Competition — A Convenient Way of
Handling Patterns and Making Bigger Sales — Ad-
vertising by Electric Signs

HERE is a scheme which a Toronto
merchant doing business on a
smale scale used very effectively.

His name is H. A. Smith. He opened
a small dry goods' store on Danforth
Avenue, the centre of the new business
district of that city only a few months
ago. On that street as in most sections
uptown, there was a general feeling
among the merchants, that people go
downtown to buy without giving the
small retailer the benefit of the doubt.
It is a fact that some customers are
convinced, if they see things for a low
price in their own neighborhood that
they must be cheaper still in the large
stores. Mr. Smith realized at the outset
that he would have to go after business
in a very live manner in order to keep
customers in their own territory. He
therefore made it a point to offer one
or more articles at a price which was
even lower than those advertised by the
big stores. By getting customers into
the shop in this way he could then show
them his merchandise and the price and
quality of it as compared with the
downtown stores.

A sample of the card which appeared
each day in his window is shown on this
page.

Customers soon learned to stop before
his window and see what Mr. Smith had
to offer. That this must have been ef-
fective is proven by the fact that he has
been forced to move from the premises
he took over eight months ago and rent
one which is very much larger.

Handling Patterns

Mr. Smith had twenty years' experi-
ence with one of the largest pattern
houses in America before going into
business. As a salesman for this firm
he had held many pet theories on the
best way to sell patterns. He used his
present opportunity to prove them. He
built four 20-drawer sections of cabinets
to hold the patterns. There is no pigeon-
holing done so that not a minute is lost
in finding the exact pattern asked for.
Besides these cabinets Mr. Smith had a
special counter made. It is ten feet long
and forty inches high. There is no
strain involved in standing to look at
patterns placed at this height. It also
prevents the scattering of pattern books
to other counters. Patterns are record-
ed constantly by the salesgirls. If at
all possible a size is not allowed to go
longer than one day without being re-
placed.

Lights and Signs Below Windows

Besides the four lights in each of his
three windows Mr. Smith has used the
space below for additional display. In
these spaces he has placed glass and
high-powered lights, behind signs which
change every week. He believes that

Buy at Home

Downtown Store
Advertises :-

Tumday» Big Spmial.' 32-inch Gingham
T&rYmrd

Many »re the new pattern* now in this gmu\.
—nev« before abbwn. These are tlte fine smooth I
J texture Gingbama so desirable for the i>etter |
dcewee Forty or more checked patterns are shown I
id fetching color schemes, guaranteed to be abso-
| lutely fart. We will replace any of these ginc
[ hams jf they fade. Yard

Smiths Dry Goods
682 Danforth Ave.

On Danforth
or Downtown

you should buy

Qua! ity .

he receives a great deal of night adver-
tising in this way, because situated as
he is where there is a steady flew of
traffic to and from motion picture houses
he attracts many leisurely walking ped-
estrians. As a matter of fact, the pub-
lic will notice lights near the street
level far more quickly than they will
those overhead because they are more
unusual. He changes the signs every
week so there is always a new reason
to look in passing. His name, moreover,
is kept prominently in view not only
here but above the door.

J. P. Donald, of Toronto, has accepted
an important position witih the Lindsay
Woollen Mills, in Lindsay, Ont.

Isaac V. Williams, who was on tihe
office staff of Nerlich & Co., Toronto,
for more than seventeen years, died in
Vancouver recently. He had been suf-
fering from gland trouble for eig-h
months. He is survived by six daught-
ers and one fon.

THE MAKING OF

EM BROIDERIES

Spring Brings Revival /fn Lace>

That this winter has brten a season
for laces beyond all expectation^ one
cannot deny; but it has been a season
for he importer and not for the home-
grown brand of lace maker. The French
laces, particularly radium, have practic-
ally dominated the marketi. Spring
gowns on .he other hand show a ten-
dency toward favoring flouncings, filet
and Cluny laces, so manufacturers are
feeling very much encouraged.

Embroidery is also coming back to
its own. There are some very attract-
ive designs on the market just now and
one salesman believes that it will be
used for trimmings and flounces as
much as lace is.

Nearly all the embroidery seen these
days, is made by machinery and most
of it by the shuttle embroidery machine.
This machine is a Swiss invention dat-
ing back fifty years. Nottingham,
Eng. was the first emibroidery making
centre in the world and it was to this
city that the shuttle machine was intro-
duced in 1883. The original machine
made only 40 stitches a minute and pro-
duced embroidery in lengths of four
and a half yards. Nowadays, the im-
proved machines make 120 stitches a
minute, do all manner of pieced open-
work and produce any length required.

In the early days, these machines
were operated by pantograph, which is
an adaptation of an ingenious invention
by a Jesuit priest in the 17th century.
The general scheme is to permit a de-
sign existing in one scale to be copied
large and smaller. The movable arm
in some embroidery machines is a sur-
vival of the pantograph. The hand of
the workman manipulates it in such a
way that it traces the original design,
allowing the embroidery needle to ma'e
the pattern like the original but in the
desired size. Great accuracy is" neces-
sary in guiding this arm, imperfections
being made very easily because of the
high rate of speed at which the machine
operates.

The Jacquard machine used mostly
nowadays is quite different. One skill-
ed card puncher punches the pattern,
there being plenty of time to study each
stitch The machine reproduces the
work as frequently as is required and
with unfailing accuracy. Jacquard ma-
chines are used in one form or another,
in various branches of the fabric mak-
ing industry.

NEWS OF THE TRADE

Professor Maitland C. Boswell, of the
Universitv of Toronto, has discovered a
new chemical reaction which can be em-
ployed in making dyesitaffs from coal-
tar products. Two colors, a blue and a
beautiful shade of rose, have been pro-
duced. Thev can be applied to cotton,
wool and silk and are fast to light and
washing.

104

NOTIONS

Dry Goods Review

WM. E. WRIGHT SAYS:

"This month we are opening a new factory
for WRIGHT'S Bias Tapes in Orange, New
Jersey. It is a very unusual factory and we
feel justified in being proud of it.

"To begin with, it is not in a factory district
— it didn't have to be. The manufacture of
our bias tapes is so cleanly, so orderly, so
attractive a process, that we were permitted
to build in a restricted quarter where there
are no other industries.

"The building of steel and tapestry brick is
architecturally meritorious and contains ample
space for many new units of the patented
machinery with which we sew, cut, wind and
pack WRIGHT'S Bias Tapes. With all these
new facilities at our disposal we hope to be
able to keep up with 1922 orders as they
come in.

"This new factory is the expression of our
firm belief that women are doing more and
more home sewing every year, and that they
are going to buy more and more of all those
helps and conveniences which make the labor
of sewing easier and improve the quality of
the work."

Send for Color Card of

Showing our full line of fast colored percales, also Wright's

E-Z-Trim. You will find this card to be a great convenience

in making up your orders. It shows our 12 plain and 6

si lipid colors of Tape and 6 colors of E-Z-Trim.

Something new and useful for the Notion Department.
Sample card showing colors sent on request.

WM. E. WRIGHT & SONS COMPANY

Manufacturers

350-370 Scotland
Road

Orange, N.J.

WRIGHT'S
BIAS FOLD TAPE

It turns itself

InU. S.Pat. Off

Now as Never Before —

You Need Sound
Financial Information

THERE never was a time when
business merchants needed sound,
sane, financial knowledge of com-
mercial happenings on which to base
present and future investments as they
do right now.

For your business profits are not real
profits until you have them safely in-
vested in reliable securities.

Why not invest profits from your
shop and the coupons from your Vic-
tory Bonds in genuine securities, news
of which you will find every week in
THE FINANCIAL POST Investors :
Enquiry Service, a feature for sub-
scribers which will give you the benefit
of investigators in all the big financial
centres? This service is just as if you
paid a man $10,000 a year to be your
own personal investigator in Toronto,
Montreal, Winnipeg — in fact, every
city in the Dominion.

But you cannot hire the services of
this staff — you get them free with a
subscription to THE FINANCIAL
POST, through this splendid Investors'
Enquiry Service, which is free to all
readers.

THE FINANCIAL POST

143-153 University Ave., Toronto, Ont.

.192

THE FINANCIAL POST,

143-153 University Ave., Toronto.
On the understanding that THE FINAN-
CIAL POST contains just the facts I need for
safe investment of profit, you may send me a
recent issue.

Name . .
Address

Dry Goods Review

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

105

Brighten Your Windows

With our High Class

Wax Mannequins

They give life to your Displays

Besides our own make in WAX
BUSTS we have a large stock of the
CELEBRATED FRENCH MANNE-
QUINS. Visit our showrooms when
in our city and choose a selection of
WOMEN'S, CHILDREN'S and MEN'S
WAX MANNEQUINS.

Delfosse & Company

247-249 Craig St. W.
Montreal

Jeanne — No. 1011

Our Mannequins are Cast from

Live Models

Call us by Longdistance
for immediate Delivery.

■' 1

\ 1 W 1

^^ ■

W m

■

Marie— No. 1010
Made by our French Artist

We will gladly Jsend
photos upon request.

Marie— No. 1010A

Canadian Wax Mannequin

Why Not Have a Double
Check on all Sales?

All kinds of Wire Cash and
Parcel Carriers and Pneu-
matic Tubes.

Gipe-Hazard Store Service
Co., Limited

113 Sumach St., Toronto.
Ont.

The merits of our Cash Carrier System should warrant your
careful consideration. We believe they will, and, too, that you
will agree with us after making an examination of them. As
a beginning we would suggest that you send for our illustrated
catalogue which shows alll kinds of wire carriers for conveying
cash, or cash and parcels. It will be better, for you to be pre-
pared at this time when the season is right, than it will to be
sorry after the rush of spring trade has set in. Then why not
be prepared?

1^^ When Answering Advertisements Kindly Mention This Magazine lilt

106

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

Dry Goods Review

Swinging Pendulum of the Ad. Man

Unusual Methods Will Bring Home The Bacon in 1922 — Adver-
tising Must Follow A New Track Without Being Yellow — Some
Methods Tried by F. R. MacMillan's of Saskatoon— Plan That

Brought Good Results

Written By James Burt Malette, Advertising Manager for F. 'R. MacMillan Ltd., Saskatoon, Western
Canada Member International Board ABA

THROUGHOUT the thoroughfares
of the commercial world the word
has been flashed, "Unusual meth-
ods will bring home the bacon in 1922."
We see business men reaching out for
new ways and means to secure the usu-
al slice of progress, bank and financial
experts cudgelling their brains for new
thoughts. New methods are being adopt-
ed in factories, warehouses and ex-
porting establishments, merchandise
buyers are adopting new ideas in pur-
chasing, the entire buying and merchan-
dising fraternity 'has suddenly awaken-
ed from a deep slumber of easy money,
high prices and passive indifference to
costs and with the advent of the New
Year has gone to work on a brand new
plane involving methods that are as dis-
tinctly different from those followed in
1920 and for the past five preceding
years as midnight from midday!

Advertising Methods Behind

And while this transition is taking
place what is advertising doing? Stand-
ing as still as the Rock of Gibraltar!
Advertising, the much vaunted "live
wire" of business, "The life of the
Trade" has failed to change its colors
to suit the surroundings. I venture to
state that it is the one arm of commer-
cial service that has failed to keep time
with the pendulum. For instance,
glance over the large daily papers of the
day — The New York Times, Philadel-
phia Public Ledger, Boston Transcript,
Chicago Tribune, Indianapolis Star, Los
Angeles Times, Montreal Star, any Tor-
onto or Winnipeg paper that you will,
and fire your imagination to fever heat,
you will fail to find any radical change
in the clothing of the advertising of any
firm using the columns of any of these
periodicals! Strange, is it not, when
other features and branches of service
have altered so materially to meet the
changing conditions.

An old college dhum of mine in Chi-
cago, advertising manager of one of the
Lake City's largest stores, does not agree
entirely with me in what I am- about to
set forth in this article. There may be
others who will take another view than
mine but the fact remains that this
policy I enunciate and which I put in
force in the store I am at present asso-
ciated with has brought generous re-
turns from every dollar expended in its
propagation.

A Brand New Style

Let sis take F. R. MacMillan's as an

example. This store was doing the

largest business in Central or Northe n

Saskatchewan in the Spring of 1920 and

indicaticns pointed to a bumper crop,
liberal credits and easV money in the
Fall.

September arrived and with it the sad
tidings that Northern Saskatchewan's
crop would fall far sho:-t of expecta-
tions. We held a council and after re-
viewing market reports and special in-
formation that we fortunately had at
our disposal agreed that the time had
come when strenuous measures must be
adopted to meet a condition that as yet
we had never been called upon to face.
The first thing was to pare buying ap-
propriations as much as possible, giving
due regard for "wanted" lines, sizes,
etc., in staples. In some instances or-
ders for goods totalling some $80,000
were cut 33 1-3 %. We made sure we
could do this and still lose no business.
The next thing in order was to adopt
methods that would be noticed by the
public and the first two things to be
called up on the carpet were advertising
and windows. Formerly our windows
and advertising had been conducted
along lines calculated to raise the pres-
tige of the establishment and the pres-
tige had been secured by such methods
but the point then was how to alter our
scheme of things so that we might re-
tain this good standing and in addition
force business frcm exhausted purses!

A New Plan

I held a special consultation with our
display manager and he agreed with the
principle of "Reverse English," that is
to say, place quantity in the windows
and the reverse in the press. To illus-
trate. We had a great sale of towels,
5,000 pairs of various sorts. In the win-
dow he showed a complete bathroom
ou.fit, bowl, seat, bathtub, towel racks,
etc. And the window was literally alive
wtih towels hundreds of them, not
thrown in, but tastefully arranged. It
would be impossible for anyone even
across the street to pass the building
without gaining the knowledge that
there was a huge sale of towels on foot.
In the advertisement, (we use two pages
each day) was a half page devoted to
nothing save towels. The display used
was liberal, type large and plenty of
towel illustrations were employed and
although jt created a sensation it did
not smack of the spectacular in any
sense. But it did allow the public the
impression that we were doing some-
thing out of the ordinary. Results from
this initial move were immensely grati-
fying to all of us. The balance of the
page was taken up by two departments
and each used but two items. Here we
have a total of five sales on one page

that produced results fully 50% in ex-
cess of any previous sale day of a simi-
lar character in our history!

Must Have Features

I am decidedly opposed to crowding
newspaper advertising irrespective of
what reputation the firm enjoys. A
page devoid of features from day to day
will never gain adherents to the firm's
line of patronage and, after all, this is
one of the purposes of every advertise-
ment. Net merely to secure "repeat"
orders, but to sell in new fields, to catch
the eye of the occasional "ad" reader as
well as the woman or the man who
make a business of studying your store's
publicity. It is new friends we want as
well as the continued business of old
ones.

Another Plan that Worked
Along in the earlier portion of 1921
we tried another tack. We began ex-
ploiting one department per day. That
is to say give up a full page to the offer-
ings of one department. But the de-
partment securing the day's space must
find enough "meat" to feed the readers
else the page was "auctioned off" to the
highest department bidder. We found
this method just as successful as the
first and before long became aware of
the fact that the general public were
beginning to ask, "What will MacMillans
do next?" The element of surprise was
apparent. We knew that we had the
confidence of the public begotten by
years of real honest dealing (not fan-
cied) and in each case when some sen-
sational happening was on the tapis, the
public came to know that the particular
sale was a real event offering intrinsic
worth. And never once did we fail
them!

The next move for publicity (note that
we were getting a large share of general
publicity as well as immense direct re-
sults) was in the form of a "Value Quar-
tette" — I dub this such, though we did
not use the term in our advertising.
This consisted in giving up the page on
alternate days to four departments
and these departments could use
but two items in a given space.
This occurred on Monday night, Wednes-
day night and Friday night. On Tues-
days, Thursdays and Saturdays compos-
ite advertisements appeared. This went
over pust as large as life. ,

Don't Neglect Departments

There are many merchants who will

interrupt here with the exclamation —

"The other depts. do not get a chance in

any of these plans." But they do! We

(Continued on page 107)

Dry Goods Review

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

107

Unique Method of Cutting Overhead

Problem Of Overhead Is Problem Of Maintaining Efficiency And

Morale Of Sales' Organizations — Present Conditions Survival Of

Salesmanship As It Is Survival Of Individual Businesses — An

Extra Week Of Holidays A Month Without Pay

PUTTING down overhead expenses
without striking at the effective-
ness of the sales' organization or
interfering with their morale is one of
the problems being faced by the retailer
during this year. It is not the easiest
thing in the world to do; yet most deal-
ers recognize that it is a year when
overhead has to be reduced if the bal-
ance sheet at the end of the year is to
show a fair percentage of profit on the
year's business. There are many ways
of reducing this overhead. Not a few
dea'ers are scanning their premises to
see if there are not some waste spots
here and there that might be turned to
useful purpose, such as adding a couple
of new lines that will bring profit with-
out any additional, or much additional
expense in the way of a sales' staff.
Some are cutting down the salaries of
their staffs, explaining! to them that
the surest way ito get back to normal
times is to reduce the costs of produc-
tion so that the selling price may be more
appea'ing to the customer and he will
come into the market to purchase his
legitimate requirements. One way of
doing this, they say, is to reduce salar-
ies commensurate with the lowering
cost of living. Again, dealers who have
been giving bonuses are discontinuing
them; or others who have been granting
commissions on sales are either reduc-
ing the commission percentage or cut-
ting them off altogether. Some are re-
ducing the cost of an extravagant r<"
livery service that developed during the
very prosperous years of 1919 and 1920;
others are making the fatal mistake of
cutting down their advertising to such
an extent that it is almost extinct. It
is safe to say that this prob'em of over-
head will be one of the outstanding, if
not the outstanding problem of the year
1922.

Extra Holidays
With the first of the year, a certain
dealer known to us decided to confront
this problem, keeping in view the desir-
ability of maintaining the efficiency of
his sales' force as well as the personnel.
He did not want to cut salaries; he did
not care to dismiss any of the members
of his organization because, natural' y.
he believed h to be a good one, built up
with extreme care. At the same time,
he felt that something had to be done
to cut down overhead and he knew that
the members of the sales' force would
listen to reasonable propositions and
would assist in every possible way to
meet an outstanding problem of the
year.

The head of this firm believes that the
most successful way to get a f a proVem
is to come to close grips with it.

He, therefore, called the members of
the sales' force together in conference.
He talked to them. He told them he
had always felt kindly disposed toward
every member of the staff. He said it
was obvious to all of them that business
was much harder to get at the present
time than it had been during the pros-
perous years of a coup'e of years ago.
Reducing overhead, he said, was one of
the big problems and, naturally, they
were looking to him to meet this res-
ponsibility and wondering in what way
he would meet it.

They Must Share It

He wanted to make the point a strong
one, however, that they must help face
this responsibility as well as he. Busi-
ness could not be conducted as it had
been during the years 1918-19-20. If it
were, they must go under. Such meth-
ods had to be gotten away from. Busi-
ness to-day was the survival of the fit-
test. It was not only the survival of
the fittest for firms but for salesmen
as well. He told the members of the
staff that he received frequent tele-
phone calls from people who wanted
their jobs and who would take them at
a smaller salary than he was giving
them. This, he did not want to do; but
he still pointed out that overhead had
to be reduced. It was either a case of
reducing the staff by dismissals or com-
ing to some arrangement whereby the
present staff could be maintained on the
same standard of wages.

How it Was Done

Not only the head of the firm, but
every member of the staff was anxious
to maintain the personnel of the sales'
organization. Dismissals are disorgan-
izing and demoralizing. An atmosphere
of uncertainty, of "what's coming next."
is created. A nervousness creeps into
the work of the organization that is
harmful and may lead to disaster. This
must be avoided.

The arrangement arrived at satisfied
all the members of the staff. It was
arranged that every member of the staff
should have a week's ho'nday for each
of the three months of January, Feb-
ruary and March. The schedule was ar-
ranged in such a way that seasonal de-
partments were not handicapped by an
inadequate staff. Of course, these holi-
days — unlike the regular summer holi-
days — were without pay.

By this method, the firm is able to
cut down its overhead expenses on sal-
aries a good deal during the year. It
represents a considerable saving where
there is a store with many departments

in it. At the same time, the sales' or-
ganization is entirely satisfied with
this method. And that is a good deal
to be thought of these days. They not
only feel that they are doing something
to help their employer meet a perplex-
ing problem, but they feel that they are
making a slight sacrifice that helps
another keep his or her job during the
twelve months of the year. They are
getting a rest that does not hurt them.
They put extra "ginger" into their ef-
forts when they come back from their
week's rest. The plan seems to be a
good one because it does all that it is
intended to do — cuts down overhead and
maintains the efficiency and morale of
the entire sales' organization.

BELLEVILLE MERCHANT

GENEROUS TO CHARITIES

Bellevike, Jan. 12— Thomas Rit-
chie, a Belleville merchant, who died
some weeks ago, left an estate valued
at $126,547, from which he made un-
usual.y large bequests to charity.

The sum of $40,000 is given to the
Women's Christian Association to erect
a nurses' home in connection with the
local hospital, and $20,000 to extend the
work of the hospital; $15,000 to the
Children's Aid Society; $10,000 to Al-
bert College; $12,000 to the city for
playgrounds; and $100 each to twe.ve
employes, and part of the residue to the
aforementioned charities.

SWINGING PENDULUM

(Continued from page 106.)

have proven beyond doubt that these
big special days draw the crowds! We
have proven that when a sale is in pro-
gress in the china shop that the hard-
ware store gets a large share of the pat-
ronage, and that a goodly portion sifts
right through the store. Then again
under all these schemes each department
is represented in the soiling plan at var-
ious periods. It is plainly up to a de-
partment manager to make his space
howl!

For the greater portion of my adver-
tising career, I have been accustomed to
publishing, writing and editing copy
that smacked very strongly of the con-
servative. I am now certain of this
fact. That the average store of today
must adopt the most strenuous type of
advertising coupled with more aggressive
merchandising in order to tread water
until normal times arrive. The mere
circus type of display will not suffice.
It is possible to have an advertisement
striking without resource to the yellow
paint pot! In this case it is plainly a
problem for the writer.

108

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

Dry Goods Review

Firm Starts Educational Department

Manchester Robertson Allison Co. of St. John Inaugurated New

Policy Few Months Ago — A Year's Course of Weekly Lectures

on Salesmanship — No Interference With Internal Management —

An Additional Feature — A Forward Step

ONE way of cutting down overhead
expenses in connection with the
cost of selling is to De saxs cnat
salesmen are throughly equipped sales-
men and saleswomen. And one very ef-
fective way to throughly equip the mem-
bers of the sales staff is to train them
in the art of salesmanship. Salesman-
ship today is a science; it is no longer
the simple act of wrapping up a parcel,
making out a bill and taking the custo-
mer's money. Those days have gone.

And since their passing, a number of
progressive firms, realizing the first im-
portance of expert salesmanship, have
undertaken to provide their sales staff
with courses in salesmanship. Nothing
but the highest praise can be spoken for
this action on the part of a number of
Canadian firms. Experience shows that
the returns from such a venture are
well worth while from many angles. It
makes for better, happier, more profi-
cient salespeople and it creates a team-
spirit in the organization that works out
to the decided benefit of the firm and
all who work for it.

M. R. A. of St. John, N. B.

One of the latest firms to fall in
line in this respect is Manchester Rob-
ertson Allison, Limited, of St. John, N.B.,
one of the progressive firms of the east-
ern section of this country. Referring
to it to a staff member of Dry Goods
Review, Walter Allison Stated that
they had formed an educational depart-
ment a few months ago for the purpose
of giving better service to their patrons
through a better sales staff. "We in-
augurated a course of lessons in sales-
manship," he said, "which includes in-
struction in the better knowledge of
goods which we sell, treatment of cus-
tomers, general deportment, and every-
thing else that goes to make for better
service to our customers and more effi-
cient salesmanship on the part of our
sales people.

A One Year's Course

"This particular method," he contin-
ued, "adopted by the company, consists
of a year's course of weekly lectures and
for the carrying out of the scheme
the staff has been divided intj four
groups having two leaders who are
generally department heads. The groups
are selected in such a way from the var-
ious departments so that, while they are
absent from the department taking
the half-hourlv weekly lessons, there is
the least possible weakness felt by their
respective departments. The whole

scheme is under the direction of Mr.
Morrison, the store superintendent.

"These lessons are held once a week
from nine to nine-thiirty in the Lunch
and Recreation rooms. Four and five
days previous to the date on which a
special group is to meet the lesson to
be discussed is handed on mimeographed
sheets to each member of that group,
which gives each member of the group
an opportunity for study for several
days before the meeting for the dis-
cussion of it.

"Saturday morning from nine to
nine-thirty is reserved f^.r a meeting of
the group leaders, eight in all, for mu-
tual exchange of ideas tending to mak-
ing them more efficient as leaders.

Regular Meeting Days

"The regular meeting days for the
groups are Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday
and Thursday mornings from nine to
nine-thirty. So far, all of those partici-
pating in these lessons are very much
pleased. The scheme has produced in-
creased interest in their work and both
employees and the management are well
satisfied with the progress made.

Additional Features

"In addition to this course of lectur-
es, there are four bulletin boards posted
in conspicuous places throughout the
store on which is posted each week some
photos of actual scenes of incidents
in store selling, which are very much
more illuminating in pressing home an
effective point in salesmanship than any
printed matter would be.

"This bulletin board also contains a
hint sometimes as to deportment such
as 'Smile and keep smiling' and such
trite phrases. Also a space on the
board is devoted to a description of some
popular textile showing a sample of it
and a brief history of its origin, name,
uses and probable weakness and strong-
points. Also another paragraph describ-
ing the photo incident.

Public May See Them

"These are on view to the public as
well as to the staff and tend towards a
better mutual understanding on the part
of the salespeople and customers by
creating a more sympathetic feeling
between these two very important fact-
ors in the selling of merchandise, an 1
incidentally, by being in plain view of
the public, generally suggest to our cus-
tomers that we are striving always to
give them better service, the moral effect
of which is more far-reaching than is
generally realized.

"There is no doubt in our minds but
that this is a decided forward step of
great benefit and will make for effici-
ency in the future which will be greatly
appreciated as the time goes on."

INCREASE SALES

Continued from page 89
the figure without corsets. This is a step
further than most fitters have taken so
far. The general rule is to allow two
inches more than the tape measures over
the corsets. This woman declares that ?f
the corset which the customer is wear-
ing does not fit, :t hardly can be expect-
ed that measurement taken ovor such a
corset will be correct. Probably the
diaphragm or the hips arc drawn in out
of all proportion in the corset which the
customer is wearing and in that case
it is very hard to convinc;: some people
that a measurement allowing - for such is
correct.

Many stores in Canada have not as
yet placed fitting rooms in their corset
departments and in these stores it would
be almost impossible to fit in the way de-
scribed. It is surprising, however, to see
the number of stores which are adding
fitting rooms and are taking particular
pride in the fact that one or more of
their salesgirls are trained fitters.

The Turnbull store of Peterboro has
a scheme which might be tried out in
smaller stores, where there is not suf-
ficient room or business to go to the ex-
pense of a special fitting room. This
store has placed its corset department
next to its ready-to-wear. The same fit-
ting rooms are used for both. This
sometimes gives an unexpected corset
sale as well, because when women realize
that a prospective gcwn doesn't look its
best over the corset which they are wear-
ing, they often decide to be fitted for a
new corset at the same time.

No less a personage than Miss Cecil
Leitch, English golf champion, has paid
a tribute 'o the sports costumes of Can-
adian women. "It' was a most attract-
ive Sight to see dozens of women in
white skirts and thin sweaters (or
jumpers, as we call them) with the turn-
ed down collar and turned back cuffs of
a light blouse and a narrow waist belt
completing a truly becoming outfit,"
was her comment. Miss Leitch is of
the opinion that there is a golden op-
portunity awaiting a "woman golfers"
outfitter in America, since the game i*
becoming so popular with women.

Dry Goods Review

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

109

QUEBEC TRAPPERS

(Continued from page 95.)
that the headwear for girls is stocked
to age 15 only, while that for boys is
carried right through to adult sizes. An
effort is made to specialize in a few good
lines only and the tastes of customers
are consulted when each season's stocks
are being ordered, so that no dead stock
accumulates. The country people pre-
fer conservative headwe'ar which will not
go out of style rapidly, and they firmly
believe that the best merchandise is the
cheapest in the long run. Usually when
this store has sold a hat to a customer,
whether for a b:y or girl or grown
member of the family, it can always
count upon getting the trade of the
rest of the household. Care is taken to
show real interest in the purchase, to sell
just the right hat at the right price, en-
suring satisfaction to the customer be-
fore clinching the sale. This policy ap-
peals strongly to the thrifty habitant
and in consequence every man, woman
and child for twenty-five miles around
the town has at some time or other worn
a Lanoix hat.

There is no call whatever for inferior
qualities in either hats or furs in the
Lanoix business and customers seem to
examine goods for their quality alone.
It is an established rule to tell the cus-
tomer exactly what they are getting,
and in the case of dyed pelts infinite
pains are taken to explain the exact
difference between electric Chapel-dyed
or French seal as compared with Hud-
son seal. Likewise an effort is made to
reproduce all the smart and new styles
in garments and neckpieces each sea-
son and no attempt is nvade to foist off
old stuff just because the purchaser is
a country woman who is not informed
as to what styles are correct.

Fine Furs Chosen Personally

According to Mr. Durocher the big-
gest demand is for Hudson seal, Per-
sian lamb and raccoon coats this sea-
son and owing to the fact that he pur-
chases the pelts from the trapper per-
sonally in most eases and has the rats
dyed to his own order, he can turn out
a smart coat at a considerably lower
price than it would command in a city
store. Similarly he obtains his other
pelts at the Montreal auctions by per-
sonal selection and although the busi-
ness is strictly retail, the customers get
the benefit of expert manufacturing.

No old furs are ever accepted and the
repair work done in slack seasons is still
another branch of the splendid service
rendered by this small but highly effi-
cient store. During the spring months
customers bring back their garments to
be stored until the fall and thus the
store keeps in touch with them all the
year round.

Uses the Movies

The best method of publicity tried out
by the store is that of running an artis-
tic colored slide at the local movie thea-
tre, illustrating a magnificent mink
wrap, plentifully elaborated with tails
and heads. This garment which is ac-
tually reproduced in the store's range

of styles, proves a good inducement
round holiday times to customers. At
other times of the year, slides showing-
new felt or straw hats are shown over
the firm's name.

A Rendez-Vous for Tourists

Of late years tourist trade has be-
come quite a specialized line with the
Lanoix store,, and it is by no means un-
usual to have a dusty motor draw up on
a hot July day, at the front door, while
an American voice enquires if this is the
store where they make fur coats right
on the premises. Motorists passing-
through St. Hyacinthe from Quebec to
Montreal rarely omit a visit to this
busy establishment and still less rarely
forget to leave an order for some fur
which is peculiarly Canadian in nature.

Thus the native pelts including musk-
rat, beaver, fox, etc., are handed over
to the visitor who is able to take a con-
siderable quantity of raw skins through
to the United States without paying-
duty.

Although the equipment of the little
siore is modern in appearance and a If
quate for the needs and character of the
business, yet there is, nevertheless, a
quaint old-world atmosphere about it,
possibly due to the fact that there is
scarcely an inch of empty space over-
head or along the walls where pelts or
furs are not hung. The chief thing no-
ticeable to the stranger in connection
with the store is the fact that this very
atmosphere or character is not striven
after, not affected, but is essentially a
part of the very genuine and honest
foundation upon which the business has
been built up.

CANADIAN WOMEN

(Continued from page 94.)
Chokers Will Ba Doub e-furred

Most of the chokers being made for
the Spring, are not lined on the inside
as they were last year. The brown furs
will be used for the most part. Mink will
be good but copper sable or stone marten
will be better still. When the latter fur
is dyed it looks so unlike the natural
fur that few people realize the close con-
nection between the Canadian Marten and
the Russian one. There is such a differ-
ence between the cost of the little ani-
mal commercially called the copper sable
or the Hudson sable and the extravagant
Russian sable, that they do not realize
they are both of the marten family only
brought up in different countries. The
two animals are about the same shade
of brown and their dark marking is very
similar. The Russian one has light grey
hairs sprinkled throughout, which is the
only real mark of distinction to the am-
ateur. They are very nearly of a size.
The fur of the Canadian marten is not
always as silky in quality as the other
but there are some skins just as soft as
the genuine ones from Russia.

Seal Dyed in Canada

When the first vogue for Hudson seal
reached Canada, furriers used to* ship
the real skins to Europe to be dyed.
Many of them were done in England.
Then the United States received most of
them. For the last three years, much of
the dyeing has been done here. One
furrier is willing to go so far as to say
that those dyed in Canada are even bet-
ter than those which come from Europe
or the United States.

Corsets and underwear of -pastel colorings formed a dainty display in one

of the smaller windows of the Bryson-Graham store of Ottawa recently.

Window arranged by Fred Ashfield, Display Manager.

110

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

Dry Goods Review

HIGH GRADE

Display Forms and Fixtures

NEW WAIST FORMS

Illustrated herewith — enamel and White Jersey
Cloth. New Narrow shoulder, mounted on
heavy round metal base, highly polished and
finished in any color desired.

Our goods are guaranteed and are being used
by stores from Coast to Coast.

Prepare NOW to dress up for Easter

Dale Wax Figure Co., Limited

Canada's Leading Manufacturers of

Store Display Fixtures and Form Rac\s and

Hangers.

86 York Street, -:- TORONTO

Made in Canada

Waist Form No. 177 E/N MONTREAL WINNIPEG

AGENTS P. R. Munro O'Brien, Allen & Company

259 Bleary St. Phoenix Block

VANCOUVER E. R. Bollert & Son 501 Mercantile Bldg.

WALKER MEDIUM PRICED FIXTURES

No. 70 D-2

71-GH

72SGG

73 S

No. 70 Shelf

Combination of 50" long, 26" wide, 7' high sections. Center units for Shirts, Underwear, Skirts,

Gloves, Hose, Collars and Sundries.

Show Cases,

Wall Cases,

Counters,

Tables

and

Shelving

Are your fixtures worthy of the
wares you display? Our name
in fixtures means durability and
attractiveness with moderate ex-
pense.

Your Store
Attracts or
Detracts by
the Quality
of its
Fixtures

THE WALKER BIN & STORE FIXTURE CO., LTD.

KITCHENER, ONTARIO

Dry Goods Review

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

ill

f^L^tfl^^

Cabl

e users can now

benefit by automatic desk advantages

THE new cable desk pictured above is a worthy companion of
the automatic tube desk, which is making such records for
lower expenses and better service.

Consecutive handling and even distribution of carriers is
the secret of the new desk. Cash and charge carriers come to
the cashiers and authorizers on a swiftly moving belt, the charge
carriers being distinguished by their color. Every operator
picks up the carriers in the order in which they arrive in the desk.

Under this new plan every customer is served in turn and all
receive prompt service regardless of the kind of sale or the section
where the purchase is made.

The work is made easier for the operators, as the cash or
charge boxes are always within reach and are conveniently
despatched over the return tracks which are grouped in the center
of the station. This ease of operation together with the equal dis-
tribution of work among the operators enables the business of a
store to be handled with fewer cashiers and authorizers than
where the older types of central desk are used.

It will pay you to investigate. Upon request we shall be glad
to show you how this new desk will benefit you.

THE LAMSON COMPANY

oronto —

136 Simcoe Street

Vancouver, B.C.

603 Hastings St

Lamson »»aS> Service

Flexibility Economy

112

EQUIPMENT AND DISPLAY

Dry Goods Review

Plan Easter

Improvements NOW

"Do Appearances Count"

Our catalogue will help you
with your display problems.

Send for copy.

g w

CLATWORTHY & SON, LIMITED

London, England

Established 1896

Toronto, Canada

Incorporated 1908

REPRESENTATIVES

Vancouver. B. C. — J. S. Maxwell & Co., Mercantile Bldg. Halifax, N. S.— D. A Gorrie Box 273
Montreal. Que.- E. O. Barette & Co., 301 St. James St. Quebec^Nap. Debigare 205 Rue des" Fosses
Travelling Western Representative — S. J. Barley.

Our Latest

Lady

In Wax

No. 3
Special

We now have at
our show rooms
an ex-position of
wax. We invite
all to inspect it.

J. R. Palmenberg's Sons Inc.

63-65 West 36th Street, New York

CHICAGO BOSTON BALTIMORE

Could you retire in 20 years?

Perhaps you don't want to — but all the same it is
a very pleasant feeling to have enough gilt-edged
securities tucked away that if business does get
troublesome you haven't the slightest worry.

The big point is this — profit is not profit until it
is safely invested and bearing interest. There is so
much of the average merchant's earnings that are
frittered away in non-essentials, when he might
create an estate separate from his business load.

THE FINANCIAL POST points the way to »afe,
sane investment in sound securities. Through the-
Investors' Enquiry Service you get the bed-rock
facts behind any and all investments. Before you
buy — write.

The $5.00 invested in THE FINANCIAL POST
service for a year will mean hundreds of dollars to
you, if you follow the hints, tips and suggestions in
the investment of your profits. When so many mer-
chants have found its pages valuable to them, will
you not fill in the coupon and find out for yourself
just how valuable THE FINANCIAL POST can be
to you?

.1983

THE FINANCIAL POST.
143 University Ave.,

Toronto, Ont.

On the understanding that THE FINANCIAL POST holds
just the facts I need for safe investment, you may send
me a recent issue. If I decide not to take it, I will write
you within five days — otherwise you may bill me for $6,
subscription price for one year.

Name

Address

Dni Goods Review

HOME FURNISHINGS

113

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J yoff/ iS ike Kme £o Sell

Linoleum Rugs'

Put Your Stock in Order Early

EACH year brings an increased demand for Linoleum Rugs.
They appeal to women as a most sensible, clean, attrac-
tive floor-covering, and new buyers are in the market whom you
can easily secure if you solicit their trade.

PLAN ON BIG SALES

and You Will Make Them

Order a good supply of DOMINION LINOLEUM RUGS NOW,

from your jobber. The new patterns are ready in all sizes.

Think of what our full page color advertisements mean to you
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J0I Order while Stocks are Unbroken

'•Jijjjg 'ris&r NOTE: Write us for window display material, newspaper
***JgJ™& y ' electros and booklet for distribution. They are free.

Dominion Oilcloth & Linoleum Co.

Limited
MONTREAL

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114

HOME FURNISHINGS

Dry Goods Review

Helping Sale of Floor Coverings

Promise of Good Year for Those Who Specialize on This Trade —

National Advertising Stressing Sanitary Features Has Helped —

Extensive Assortment — Attractive Display — Choosing Customers

— Marking of Goods — Advertising Merchandise

AT THE REQUEST of Dry Goods
Review a representative of one of
the foremost Canadian companies
manufacturing oilcloth and allied pro-
ducts has very kindly furnished the fol-
lowing; statement regarding; conditions
in this industry, for the benefit of the
readers of this journal.

"1922 Promises to be a Good

Year for Linoleums ' /

That the present year will be an ex-
cellent one for merchants who special- \
ize in the sale of linoleum, oilcloth and '
similar floor coverings is assured for
several definite reasons: — First, prices
are much more attractive now, having
been reduced materially within the past
twelve months; in some instances the
reductions amount to 35% and even
more, and the declines are marked all
round. Argument regarding the value
of price reduction would be idle, so that
the trade may here seize upon one of
the very best arguments in planning
forward sales.

Second, the array of new designs for
the coming season is very extensive in
both linoleums and floor oilcloth, and in
rugs of both materials there are changes
and additions which permit every mer-
chant and firm to add to their selections
goods that will appeal to customers'
tastes. These new creations come at no
advance in price and are subject to the
same reduced costs applying to the
standardized patterns.

National Advertising Helps

A decidedly increased demand for
these sanitary floor coverings has been
manifested in recent years, and partic-
ularly within the last few, owing to ed-
ucational advertising which is being ex-
tensively conducted in national cam-
paigns. The good sense of the modern
housewife has been appealed to by the
logical arguments used in outlining the
advantages of linoleum and oilcloth.
Modern homes, to be healthful, must be
fitted with sanitary, cleanable floor
coverings and no floors are more ideal
in this respect than those of these mat-
erials, and few can claim as much.
In addition to this, as every person
knows, these coverings are attractive, in
good taste for all rooms, durable and
easily cleaned.

Enough has therefore been said in the
outline above to afford the studious mer-
chant several excellent selling points.
But matters are made easier for him by
the manufacturer who issues sales helps
which are invaluable even to the most
expert salesman. Furthermore the
makers will forward to any merchant

Homespun coverlets of the honeycomb
weave. They are made in Hue and tan,
and in black, brown, rose, tan and blue
combined with white. — Shown nY Ken-
wood Mills, Arnprior, Ontario.

who is handling such floor coverings the
new paper patterns for window and in-
terior display; very attractive four-
color process cards which illustrate the
coverings in use; laying instructions for
attaching the products to the floor; pat-
tern books showing all designs; news-
paper electros, etc. The wide-awake
dealer must nowadays avail himself of
all such material helps in going after
new business as Spring house renova-
tions approach.

But after all, even when advertising is
conducted to impress the consumer fav-
orably, results depend very largely upon
the energy and initiative o fthe individual
merchant and his salesmen. Success in
selling these products is, therefore, a
matter of pre-determined programme,
coupled with a determination to carry
the program through. Here is a speci-
men programme which has been worked
out by a former retailer and should also
be of service to many others.

"Plan for Developing a Floor Covering
Trade"
1. Carry an extensive assortment.

What would be extensive for one man
would be inadequate for another, so

that each merchant would have to de-
termine for himself what his stock
should be, keeping this in mind, how-
ever, that most people trade where
there is ample variety of what they re-
quire, for there they feel surest or get-
ting the proper selection.

2. Make much of display. When prop-
erly planned, a linoleum or oilcloth dis-
play is one of the best attractions in
any store; often it looks anything but
attractive owing to lack of thought and
continuous effort. Keep the department
in the best of order and arrangement
during all seasons.

3. Choose your customers. Something
new and novel ? No. Just the careful
compiling of a good mailing list — one
of the most important business sources
in every store. Then write these pros-
pects personal letters, giving them mer-
chandise news that they will be glad to
have, even if they do not buy until
later. Better still, take a book of de-
signs in your pocket and "go get the or-
der."

3. Mark Goods Carefully. "I sail
Blank's floor covering for $1 a yard,
and it costs me 45 cents," is the sub-
stance of a remark made to the writer
by an Ontario merchant last year. That
is a wrong principle and will fail sooner
or later. Mark your goods at a fair
advance, for people will pay a fair price,
but do not rob your customers. When
they learn that they have been over-
charged, they will resent and cut you
cold.

5. Show your goods and advertise
them. This embodies a great deal, but
only what a 20th century merchant
would expect in his effort to lead his
business community. Make straight
displays of linoleum or rugs or oilcloth
and send for selling helps, for manufac-
turers will gladly send these to enquir-
ers. Link up the window displays with
your newspaper advertising and illus-
trate your ads with attractive actual
pictures. Let your town or city know
that you sell these sanitary floor cover-
ings, so that, whether they buy to-day or
to-morrow they win surely come to you
when they do buy.

Now — right now — is not too early to
plan. It takes time, and well-laid plans
are the kind that succeed. Will your
sales be twice, three or four times what
they were last year? The results are
in your own hands, Mr. Merchant.

The Silk Voile Mfg., Co... at Bridge-
burg, Orot., has been forced to double
the number of machines used in the op-
eration of silk garments. Fifty ad-
ditional girls have been employed dur-
ing the last few weeks.

Dry Goods Review

HOME FURNISHINGS

115

Carpet industry Feels Cutting off of Orders
From United States Which Came During Strike

Received Some Big Orders During The Eight Weeks' Strike
Across The Border — Coming Vogue of Wall to Wall Carpet —
Few Ssamless Looms in Canada — Some Fine New Curtainings
Being Shown To Trade — Canadian Tapestries of Good Quality

THE CARPET industry in this
country is a little quiet fends last
few wests, which is all the more
noticeable because of the cutting off of
American orders. During the eight
and a half months' strike of the carpet
factories in the United States, Canadian
factories received some splendid orders
from the large retail firms on the oth-
er side. The cessation of the strike has
stopped these and manufacturers are
now forced to rely on Canada for busi-
ness.

One of the largest manufacturers in
this country says that he thinks carpet
makers have reason to register a com-
plaint against one little difficulty which
lies in the path of travellers who sell in
Canada. He says that this was brought
to light more than ever while orders
were coming in from the United States.
It is a commonly accepted policy not to
sell one pattern to more than one house
in our ci'.ies and towns. It is actually
a fact that as ,a result of this, there are
seldom more than one hundred and fifty
rugs in one pattern of a fair grade Ax-
minster or Wilton, sold in this country
in a season.

When the four or five colors in which
each pattern is made, are taken into
consideration, it is easily seen that not
more than five hundred rugs are sold
from coast to coast'

In the United States, manufacturers
may sell to as many retail houses or
wholesalers as they care to. It is there-
fore, not out of the ordinary to see 10,-
000 rugs in one design and one size
and color sold in a year. Leaving the
comparison of the respective fields out
of the question, there is no reason why
fifteen hundred or more rugs of one de-
sign should not be sold in this country,
if every store in each town of more than
four or five thousand, were offered sam-
ples from one range. This is one of the
reasons why Canadian manufacturers
cannot get their costs down to a level of
those in the United States.

Names Mean Little in Carpets

Dry Goods Review was informed that
names such as Axminster or Wilton
should not be given to customers as
more or less certain guarantees of qual-
ities in carpets and rugs. There was a
time when Brussels carpet had the same
standard in the mind of the general pub-
Ik as the others still have. It was
cheap imitation of the original weave
which injured it. Wiltons and Axmin-
sters are coming very fast to the same
basis. So many manufacturers are turn-
ing out very cheap lines, that many

One of the new Verdure tapestries. The design is copied from a French
tapestry and resembles it so closely that it is difficult to distinguish it
from the original. The colors are shaded to give a rich and subdued effect.
This piece has a black ground and the motif is worked out in mulberr •,
greens and blues, of the very softest shades. — Shown by C eorge H.
Hees and Son, Toronto.

people realize the name means very lit-
tle. Salesmen should learn something
of the real reasons for values in these
and sell according to the degree in which
carpets live up to those requirements.

Wall-to-Wall Carpets in U. S.

The vogue has not yet reached here
of carpeting floors instead of using
rugs. In the large American cities, this
has taken a firm hold. People are car-
peting floors which they went to con-
siderable expense a few years ago to
have specially laid down. These people
who are still using rugs, are asking for
much larger ones than formerly. The
popular size, that is the one which 80
per cent, of the orders showed in the last
three months, was for rugs 9 ft. x 12 ft.
In this country, 45 per cent, of the rugs
ordered are 6 ft. x 12 ft.

The vogue for larger rugs and for
wall-to-wall carpets is expected to stim-
ulate business. It may not reach here
to any extent before the fall but it will
come.

Seamless Looms Not Common

It is estimated that there are only
twelve seamless looms in the whole of

Canada. They are very expensive and
require careful handling which no doubt
accounts for their scarcity. Manufac-"
turens who have installed them find
them very much to their advantage
since they can obtain about twenty per-
cent, more for the seamless rugs than
they can for the seamed ones.

One manufacturer has just finished
an Axminsteir rug which carries the pat-
tern all the way through. This and the
fact that the pattern is Oriental, gives it
more of the appearance of a Persian rug
than anything that has been turned out
•n Canada for some time.

New Curtainings

The latest fad in white curtains is
for frills. They are seen in grenadines
and in voiles and manufacturers are
showing them in the piece and made up
into curtains. Retailers claim that
these will take with home makers, par-
ticularly for bedroom use as they will
obviate the necessity of heavy curtains.
When a white curtain is hung plain,
there is a severity which necessitates >a
valance of cretonne and often side cur-
(Continued on page 116)

116

HOME FURNISHINGS

Dry Goods Review

Radical Departure from Established Designs

BeingjShown by Many of the British Houses

Some Importations Shown in Five Colors — Wide Variety Also
Shown by Domestic Manufacturers — A New Corduroy Drapery
— A Woman's Dress to Match Her Cushions? — A Cretonne

Applique

AVERY healthy condition is re-
corded in the carpet and rug de-
^^ partments of the Montreal whole-
sale houses. According to a prominent
buyer recently interviewed by Dry
Goods Review prospects for Spring
business are exceedingly favorable and
augur well for both wholesale and re-
tail trade. The mills are now sold up
for the entire spring season, their out-
put being contracted for in all grades
and lines manufactured. Prices on
British floor coverings were cut on
January first last, about 25 per cent.,
with no set guarantee as to future
fluctuations. Nevertheless it is consid-
ered that the regular selling season
will prevail undisturbed.

The chief characteristic of British
rugs this spring is their radical depart-
ure from established designs and color-
ings. It is a season of novelties which
are offered in greater quantity than
perhaps »eve>r before. British manu-
facturers of high grade Wilton rugs
have discarded the former range of
patterns in preference for beautiful re-
productions of Chinese effects or two-
toned color schemes combining a solid
ground centre of one shade, bordered
by a lighter tone of the same, with a
central motif of decidedly small size
repeated on the border six times.

Shown in Five Colors

One Montreal warehouse is showing
a new importation of these wonderful
rugs in as many as five colors., The
rugs are linen-backed, fullnpitched, and
full 13 wire — the finest that can be
woven. In this particular range, which
is confined to one Montreal house, blue
is prominently featured, and it is said
that the demand for blue shades is to
be particularly strong for 1922. A very
new shade is called "Attar of Rose"
and is a peculiarly soft, dull tone, ad-
mirably suited to reproduce a Japanese
design of flowing line with a border
quaintly symbolic of a river. Little
fish are shown swimming in water
while foliage overhangs above. But all
thiis^ isyjmbofljijsm li(s more apparent to
the trained eye which can appreciate
artistic values — to the casual observer
this' rug is not at all out of the ordin-
ary. These rugs come in all sizes,
ranging from 27 inch mats up to 11
feet 3 inches by 13 reeti, 6 inches, with
still larger sizes available on special
order.

Domestic rugs likewise show a good
variety of new designs in two toned

effects or plain colors. The vogue for
soft rich shades in greys, browns,
blues or rose is decidedly stronger at
present than for the elaborately pat-
terned oriental designs. Several domes-
tic rugs are showing a single motif in
one corner only, which is rather novel
and not at all unpleasing. The opinion
was expressed that so long as uphols-
tered furniture is demanded which
shows a pronounced pattern in the fab-
ric, rugs will tend towards quieter pat-
terns and colors. Wall papers also are
Showing more elaboration of late,
which necessitates neutral effects in
fjloor coverings.

New Draperies of Corduroy

Printed corduroy is the latest comer
to the ranks of draperies and has been
well received by the trade, according to
.Montreal importers. It is known by
the title of Bouvelle Velours and is of-
fered in three different patterns which
include the ever popular bird of para-
dise and foliage designs. The manu-
facturers of this novel fabric have been
experimenting for the past three years,
it was said, in order to bring this drap-
ery to the highest pitch of perfection.
No little difficulty was experienced
in printing, especially with regard to
the reversible corduroys, but the show-
ing for Spring, 1922, is beyond all criti-
cism in point of excellence. Many dif-
ferent grounds are offered, upon which
warm tones of tan, rose, blue and black
are intermingled. These new fabrics
are all 36 inches wide and are ideally
suited for the upholstering of cushions
and coverings of wicker furniture for
the country house, since they are dur-
able, washable and practical.

Cretonnes for Summer Frocks

Touching on the demand for ging-
ham patterned cretonnes, the same
wholesaler characterized it as stupen-
dous). "We sold our first large shipment
inside three days last month," he ex-
plained, "and we have it on order in
double quantity. It is impossible to
say whether it is more wanted by house
furnishing departments or for the dress
trade, both are eager to get hold of it,
and I foresee a summer when it will be
fashionable for a woman to dress to
match her curtains and cushions!"
Cretonne Applique is the Latest

The aforesaid dress cretonnes are of-
fered in many charming colorings and
designs which are simply irresistible to
buyers. Smart little checks overlaid
with prim sprigged effects, are especial-

ly strong in two tone color combina-
tions. Also, there is a strong demand
for cretonnes which feature gigantic
floral patterns, because single blossoms
can be cut out and appliqued upon
dresses, skirts, aprons, curtains, hats,
bags and practically everything used in
the home.

It is thought that the fashion of ap-
lying these cut-out motifs from cre-
tonne to plain fabrics such as un-
bleached cottons, voiles, chamibrays or
gingham will be one of the biggest
fads of the Summer season, and already
considerable difficulty is being exper-
ienced in securing sufficient supplies of
the larger patterns suitable for this
purpose. Mustard, pumpkin and burnt
orange are the favorite colors for
grounds in cretonnes and other draper-
ies this season, and the more uncon-
ventional and original the pattern, the
quicker it sells.

Similar reports on the demand for
dress cretonnes and other fabrics were
made to Dry Goods Review by a lead-
ing Ottawa wholesale house this month,
stating that buyers in Ottawa and the
surrounding towns were confident of a
big Summer in these novelty goods.

This Ottawa firm has just received a
large shipment of English casement
cloth and art muslins, the first in three
years, which are once more obtainable
in the old original fast colors and artis-
tic patterns.

The regular trade in Ottawa and vic-
inity is demanding more and more floor
coverings of late, especially the new
designs in congoleum rugs which are
now the accepted fashion in country
homes and others where the floors are
not of hardwood. With the recent re-
duction in price on these goods, of
some 20 per cent, the prospects for
spring business were never brighter.

CARPET INDUSTRY FEELS

CUTTING OFF OF ORDERS

(Continued from page 115)
tains. This frilling helps fill up the hol-
lows of the window frame and gives a
cozy appearance in the room.

Lace and insertion is better than ever
in combination with net, voile, marqui-
sette and grenadine. One department
store in Toronto sold thousands of these
during January for $3.50 and $3.95 a
pair. Many of them had drop-stitched
motifs in the corners. It seems strange
that these materials cannot be purchas-
ed by the yard at a price which com-
pares with the made-up curtains.

Dry Ooods Review

HOME FURNISHINGS

117

ENGLISH CURTAINS FOR CANADIAN TRADE.

We have received from Nottinglmm some very fine ally made so that lengths of so many panels can be cut
samples of lace curtains 'specially made for the Canadian off to fit any sized window.

Market.

Made on the Fi'et ground, a very popular weave, they
range from gauges of 8 to 16 points, a really fine gauge
for a Lace Curtain.

The sectional pa el is obtaining enormous popularity
owing to the fact that it is a yardage line which is speci-

The three novelty single border Filet curtains which are
ultra-fashionable in Car.ada just now are made with hem-
med edges and little lace edgings.

These goods are manufactured by Dobsons and M.
Browne and Co., Ltd., of Nottingham, England.

118

HOME FURNISHINGS

Dry Goods Review

Handkerchiefs

Now showing in our new range of
Christmas Handkerchiefs — a most var-
ied and complete assortment, embrac-
ing many new styles and creations that
will prove top-notch sellers for your
next Christmas business:

FANCY BOXED HANDKERCHIEFS— One, two,
or three in a box — many styles — full range of prices, and
attractive holiday boxes.

SPECIAL ASSORTED LO TS— These have met with
a very special success in past Seasons. See the New Num-
bers at the New Prices.

Good range of plain and H. S. Lawn and Linen Hand-
kerchiefs, Children's Novelty Handkerchiefs, and Men's
Handkerchiefs in White H. S. Lawn or Linen, and Colored
Borders.

Our Handkerchiefs are all 1922 STYLES. It will pay you to
see these when our Salesman calls.

House Furnishing Department

We have complete stocks of Nets — Madras
— Scrims and Marquisettes — Sateens-Cre-
tonnes and Shadow Cloths. Samples now in
our travellers' hands.

PRIME & RANKIN, LIMITED

Weekday Cross

Nottingham, England

74 York Street

TORONTO

ESTABLISHED 30 YEARS

Dri/ Goods Review

HOME FURNISHINGS

til

THE

Jamieson

LINE OF

SCOTCH

DRAPERY FABRICS

1^1

\s .-■■

la®

consists of Lace Curtains, Cream and Colored Scotch
Madras, Curtain Nets, Sectional Panels, Lace Bed
Spreads (as illustrated), Brise Bise, Vitrage, Poplin
Repps, Fast Dyed Casement Cloth, Hand-Blocked
Printed Cretonnes.

We have on hand in our warehouse at 55 Bay
Street, Toronto, ready for immediate shipment, the
most complete lines of NEW goods in Canada to-day
— direct from our mills at Darvel, Scotland. All prices
are at to-day's mill quotations.

Give us a call — or write us. We render a prompt
service on all orders, large or small.

Alexander Jamieson & Co.

(Wholesale Only)

55 Bay Street, TORONTO

Telephone : Adelaide 861

-♦„■

[T' v ^^ ~> r s '■'

liU''

.HS&nsai

«5K

)cm

"^^M^^^^^MW^

M^Mi^M

120

READY-TO-WEAR

Dry Goods Review

Some Late Models in Ready to Wear

Popular Bramley Frock for Girls in Teens — Three Piece Golf
Suit in Knitted Jersey Cloth — Sport and Box Suits — Fabrics in
Dresses Show Marked Difference From Last Year — Tailored Ef-
fects in BlouseS'in Demand

THE girl who is in her teens can-
not wear anything more charming
and youthful than the ever popu-
lar Bramley frock. Canadian manufac-
turers have designed a new version for
Spring which is decidedly more becom-
ing than last Fall's style. This model,
developed in knitted fabric in a wide
range of colors, has a skirt closely knife
pleated all round, set on a slip of batiste.
Over this is worn a pullover blouse on
the middy type, that is to say, instead
of the lower edge hanging loose under a
belt as was the fashion before, this full-
ness is now shirred into a deep band
which encircles the hips, in which elastic
is run. Thus the wasit and hip line is
smooth, slender, and stays down all the
time. Even figures wbich are somewhat
plump can wear the new Bramley frojk
with good effect. The collars and cuffs
are of white or color contrast and may
be either of jersey or kid, piped with
black. Heather mixtures are in great
demand for these frocks, particularly in
the lovat shades.

The three-piece golf suit again crops
up in knitted jersey cloth of quite un-
usual effectiveness. Seen this month in
a Montreal show room, one such suit was

developed in tan tweed jersey showing
a fleck of blue and red. The skirt was
smartly plain, buttoned from waist to
hem, while the knickers were of the
usual style with buttons set close to-
gether on each side closing. Slashed
pockets were set in, on the slant, on
both skirt and knickers. The coat was
tailored, with notched collar, patch
pockets and inverted pleats designed on
the "swivel" type favoured by men's
sports clothes. Pussy willow silk lined
the coat throughout.

Sport Suits

Another typical spring sports suit was
of emerald green cassimere cloth which
closely resembles flannel. This was se-
verely plain in type, being relieved mere-
ly by black bone buttons of the 4 hole
variety. Twilled homespun suits are
proving to be enormously popular, it is
said, in Montreal. The twilled effect
however is not any more in demand than
the staple weaves, for the latter, espe-
cially that which reproduces the uneven
threads of the real Habitant homespun,
made on hand-looms, are selling better
than ever before.

A composite costume, which might 'be
called a sports outfit, for want of a bet-

JERSEY CLOTH IS NOW

USED TO DEVELOP

SMART SPORTS

CLOTHES

This model which comprises
coat, knickers and skirt is
made of soft tan knitted
cloth flecked in red and blue
tweed effects. The new swiv-
el pleats give plenty of free-
dom for golfing or riding and
the patch pockets are both
smart and useful. — COSTUME
Developed in Hawthorne
Fabric a'nd Shown by Cour-
tesy of the Hawthorne
Mills of Carleton Place,
Dntario.

ter term, was noticed in a show room in
Montreal. This was composed of a long
smock of rose homespun worn over
knickers of the same. The smock was
belted with a narrow white belt, and
cuffs and collar were of unbleached lin-
en piped in black. A flowing Windsor
tie finshed the throat.

In the same collection also was noticed
a number of plain tailored homespun
suits, the coats of which featured three
inverted box pleats in the back. The
proportion of homespun suits shown,
slightly outnumbered those of jersey,
which, however, are more tailored in
style than they were last year. Heather
cloths were represented more than the
plain kinds.

The Box Suit

Tricotine box suits of dressy appear-
ance are quite .as. much in demand as
was first expected. The newest type
seen this month featured a wide crush-
ed sash of pearl grey crepe de chine

Dry Goods Review

READY-TO-WEAR

121

about the skirt, which ended in two deep
tassels. Wide black silk military braid
was used to trim the coat, running up
and down vertically over each shoulder,
and again down the sleeves. The coat
of another suit of a cool sand shade of
tricotine had a vestee of black silk in-
set in the opening which showed be-
neath a little turn-down collar, gradu-
ally widening where the coat flared at
the waist.

Separate skirts showed such variety
of design, color and style that it is not
possible to say as yet which models are
to prove most popular for late Spring
wear. Much is said of a novel home-
spun model which is wrapped about the
figure instead of being closed by a
stitched seam. A wide stitched fold of
the fabric comes in the back. The waist
line is fitted with elastic in order that it
may be used by various sizes.

Dresses

While there is not much change in the
lines of the frocks for formal wear now
being shown for Easter and Spring wear,
the fabrics and colors are distinctly dif-
ferent from last season's line-up. The
great bulk of the trade done appears to
be on colorful effects and not a few en-
tirely scarlet models or models of jade
green and white, etc, are selling.

Crepe-Knit cloth seems to have taken
Canada by storm insofar as frocks are
concerned, and innumerable smart but
simple dresses featuring the Jenny neck,
lowered waist line and peasant sleeve are
shown. Such contrasts of color as ger-
anium red with oyster grey, rust with
peacock blue, fuchsia and cocoa brown,
jade and black, pumpkin and mag-pie
combinations, etc, are not in the least
unusual.

The aeroplane frock, designed in a
straight line from neck to hem with un-
usual sleeve effects, and the handker-
chief sleeve- which can be unfastened to
fall free in mandarin style are some of
the novel features of frocks offered by
Montreal houses. Most of the crepe-
knit frocks are simple in design as be-
fits the character of the fabric, and it is
rumored that smart women are not par-
tial to over elaboration this season, in
the matter of trimming. Lattice-work
of the fabric composes a clever banding
to edge necks or sleeves, showing open-
work of course, and thus imparting an
air of daintiness to the otherwise severe
silhouette. Panels are still featured and
tunic effects which begin below the low-
ered sash about the hips.

Canton crepe in a heavy rich quality
is effectively used in a striking black
gown heavily beaded all over with
wooden beads in several colors. The de-
sign carried out is one of solid motifs in
floral pattern. Although this type of
trimming is bizarre and somewhat heavy,
it is undoubtedly unusual and artistic.

Taffeta reappears in delicate shades in
models designed to suit the young girl.
Quaint bouffant styles are prominent ?.s
befits the crispness of this material. A
frock of fuchsia pink taffeta had its el-
bow sleeves and round neck edgei with
narrow black lace, while a huge black

velvet flower was crushed at the waist
line to lie flatly at one side.

Another bouffant gown of chocolate
brown taffeta had the new full sleeves
which ended just below the elbow. Be-
low these sleeves appeared puffs of bon-
fire tinted georgette, tied in at the
wrists.

A straight tunic frock of henna can-
ton crepe was draped over the biscuit
tinted crepe de chine, falling in flat box
pleats both front and back, and showing
the lighter shade combined with the
darker, side by side.

Bordered Roshanara crepe in a very
heavy quality was effectively developed
in tobacco brown, the banding being in
paisley tones ranging from dull blue to
cream. Chain girdles or heavily tassell-
ed draped effects seemed to be most
wanted, according to the designers, as
finishes upon spring frocks.
Blouses
Designers of blouses are feeling very
much encouraged over the outlook for
spring. Tailored effects hold the su-
preme place, both in lines known as tail-
ormade and in so called costume offer-
ings. There is no radically abrupt
change from last year's styles but the
insistent demand for types suitable to
wear with knicker suits or other sports
outfits of distinctive character has had
the effect of giving a really satisfactory
impetus to the trade.

The simply cut blouse will probably
be the choice of the smart woman, no
matter whether it be of dimity, crepe de
chine, voile or knitted fabric. Insofar
as the choice of laces for trimming is
concerned, an authority states that Irish
edges, filets and the better grade vals
are all certain of popularity for 1922.
Applique work is spoken of as being cer-
tain to "take hold" and embroideries
will be used on crepe de chine blouses
which are inspired by peasant origin.
Cross stitchings and smockings are ex-
pected to take well here in Canada on
these types. Generally speaking the
smartest blouses will feature self-trim-
ming or the merest touch of some vivid
contrast. Owing to the fad for brocad
ed crepe skirts for next summer it is
felt that there will be a sudden call for
fine quality crepe de chine or georgette
blouses in all white to wear under the
new style of sweaters in bright colors.
With millinery and sweaters favoring
bright shades, skirts and blouses must
of necessity remain white. Buyers are
paying more attention to stout sizes
than ever before, it was said, and it
should no longer be necessary for the
stout figure to have clothes made to or-
der in order to look well. The present
simple styles are both becoming and
slenderizing to heavy figures.

KENT-McCLAIN AGAIN

A. C. Beaton, North Sydney, N. S.

Mr. A. C. Beaton, of North Sydney, N.S.,
has recently installed new silent salesmen
of the "Republic" design in rich % cut
Oak. "Republic" silent salesmen are a
product of Kent-McClain Limited (Toron-
to Show Case Company).

THE SLEEVELESS FROCK
Still reappears in new variations; this
one is of scarlet jersey with the new
square front opening. It is worn over a
knitted blouse of chiffon mohair wool,
piped in black. This blouse may be worn
over a separate skirt as it is fitted with
a becoming band at the waist line. —
Shown by Courtesy of the Knit to
Fit Company of Montreal.

OPERATING NEW FACTORY

Wm. E. Wright & Sons Co., of Orange,
N.J., are opening this month a new fac-
tory for the manufacturing of bias tapes.
On account of the clean and orderly pro-
cess of manufacturing this article, their
new factory is in a very restricted dis-
trict where no other factories are locat-
ed. In a statement with regard to the
opening of this new factory, Mr. Wright
says that the increased demand for this
article is due to the fact that women are
doing more home sewing than they have
ever done before.

The Gardner Fair store, of Walker-
ville, has sold out its premises to a pur-
chaser whose name is at present with-
held, for $50,000.

KENT-McCLAIN 'AGAIN

McDermott & Suilivan. Cobalt, Ontario.

Messrs. McDermott & Sullivan, of Cobalt,
Ontario, have recently added to their dis-
play facilities by the installation of new
silent salesmen. They have selected the
"Imperial" case in V4 cut Oak as being
best suited for their needs. The "Im-
ner ; al" silent salesmen are built by Kent-
McClain Limited, (Toronto Show Case
Company.)

122

READY-TO-WEAR

Dry Goods Review

Links Up Opening
With Shoe Store

Linking up with another local store
was responsible for one of the best
ready-to-wear openings, the Turnbull
store, Peterborough, Ont., has ever had.
A shoe merchant who was planning to
sell natural tread shoes, needed models to
wear his shoes and garments to attract
attention to his display. The J. C. Turn-
bull Company, had just at that time re-
ceived a splendid line of afternoon and
evening dresses for their fall showing.
Arrangement was made between the two
stores, by which the Grand Opera house
was taken over for the evening of Thurs-
day, October 27. Only natural tread
shoes were worn by the models. The ob-
ject was to show how these shoes may
be worn with any type of dress, even
for evening wear.

All the garments displayed by the
Turnbull Company at this fashion par-
ade were taken from the regular stock,
so that every woman who saw them kn ■»•
that they could be purchased at the
store. The advertising manager, who
was responsible for the show, declares
that it is never advisable to have gar-
ments brought 'in for an occasion such
as this and obtainable only on special
order from the maker. Customers lose
faith in a store if this method is used,
because they always dread ordering
clothes which are promised to be exact-
ly like something they have seen. More-
over, there is no prestige gained by
showing gowns which are not actually
carried. This store advertised in the
daily papers that all the garments were
bought for women in Peterborough, so
that no one had the impression that they
were models suited to ultra-fashionable
New York. Accessories were also includ-
ed in the showing, including millinery,
dresses, suits, coats, skirts, blouses,
hosiery, and gloves.

House Filled

It is estimated that five hundred
people were turned away from the
Fashion parade. It is difficult to say
Which part of the event was mostly re-
sponsible for the great success that
•night and for weeks later. No doubt the
lecturer who explained the advantages
of natural tread shoes and who told his
story very well, brought in his wake the
great vogue for these shoes which took
Peterborough by storm. It is estimated
that sixty per cent, of the best-dressed
women in that city are now wearing
them. It was not the shoes but the
fashion parade however, which first at-
tracted them. Displays outside the store
were unusual in that city and the nov-
elty of the thing had its effect also.

The admission was of course free but
there was a voluntary collection taken
up by workers for the Children's Aid
Society and the local orphanage. The
audience was very ready to give to these
charities and the charities in turn, were
most grateful to the stores, for the op-
portunity given them to collect.

The Turnbull firm believes that the in-
terest aroused not only in the garments
shown but in their merchandise in gener-
al, more than repaid them for the time
and money expended in the style show.

A HINT TO READY TO WEAR
BUYERS

New York Believes in A'l Suit Types

Although New York stores are also
talking and featuring tweeds and the
so-called sports type of apparel for
spring and resorc wear ati the present
time, together with devoting window
display space and attention toward their
final clearance sales, buyers agree that
the demand for tailored and semi-dress
suits just as soon as they are shown will
be on a par with that for the other type.

"No matter what the material, tweed,
trelaine, kasha, spongeen, or home-
spun," one buyer remarked, "if the gar-
ment is in a high or isports shade, it is
not the type of suit a business woman
can wear on an informal occasion at
night without making a change. For
this reason, I believe that with the
vogue for suits coming back, all types
of suits will sell well at the right time,"
she added.

There are other buyers also who be-
lieve that the time has come when girls
and women will want more than one
kind of suit in their wardrobe, espec-
ially with the attractive treatments of
three-piece costumes being offered in
combinations of Canton crepe and the
varied new twill cloths.

Charles G. David & Co., Inc., New
York, have removed to .he Victoria
r..; fi ; n- 2T1 Fifth Avenue, Room 1303,
New York. They are now in possession of
more commodious quarters for the dis-
play of dress goods, woollens and worst-
eds.

Runciman's of Annapolis Royal, N. S.,
are celebrating their hundredth anniver-
sary by the opening of a new store on
the corner of S\ George and St. An-
thony streets. The late George Runci-
man was the founder of this popular
dry goods house.

J. D. Flavelle of the firm of Dundas
& Flavelle, Lindsay, Ont., was presented
with a lovine evn bv the curlers of
Pe'erboro. Mr. Flavelle is the veter-
curler of Lindsay, this' being the fiftieth
year in which he has been playing the
game.

The Canadian Fur Auction Sales
Company, Limited, announces that the
1922 spring sale will be held in Mon-
treal, Que., on May 9, 1922, and follow,
ing days.

FOR THE EASTER PARADE
The newest version of the Spriyig sui
should be of navy blue tricotine embroid
ered and braided in black silk. This smar
costume comprises three pieces, namely
coat, skirt and sleeveless guimpe of olive
green printed chiffon ivith black ovzr
pattern. A wide sash is tied loosely a
the left side. The hat is of navy blue
Italian hemp trimmed with innumerable
little cones of corded ribbon round the
brim, and a tin quill thrtist through the
side. — Costume by Courtesy of the
National Garment Company of Mon
treal. Hat by Courtesy of Debenhams
Limited, Montreal.

Dry Goads Review

READY-TO-WEAR

123

New Styles In

Outer Garments

Capes Take Conspicuous Place — Black
Wraps for Conservative Models

Between the sports suit and the suit
for street and more dressy wear, there
lies but uncertain distinction, particular-
ly when the tendency is to attach the
name of "sports" to any kind of cos-
tume developed on fairly simple lines in
bright colors, provided only that it is not
an evening type.

It has become a problem this season to
decide just where the line should be
drawn in this connection, for fashion
nowadays decrees that informal dress is
permissible at times when it would have
been decidedly out of place a year or so
ago.

Tweeds

Tweeds stand on the cross-roads be-
tween sports and street types, and cos-
tumes of silk eponge and such lightweight
fabrics are undecided as to whether they
shall appear as sports or afternoon
styles. Knitted garments have been uni-
versally accepted as a distinct sports
group, and whether they are of the
plainest wool in neutral shades, or heavi-
ly embroidered in elaborate patterns and
rich colors, they are still indisputably
sports clothes.

Capes Conspicuous

Capes have now taken a conspicuous
place in sports showings and even the
trained eye finds it hard to detect where
capes begin and coats leave off. Sleeves
in many new coats are so cleverly ar-
ranged that by merely unfastening a few
fancy buttons an effective panel falls
free over the slit of the armhole. Thus
the coat which is effective for afternoon
wear becomes a wrap of distinctive
character for evening requirements.
Such capes as these are developed in the
new supple pile fabrics, such as "Sapho."
While navy blue is most generally fav-
oured by the retail trade, there are a
number of novelty color combinations
which find ready buyers. Steel grey and
blue are often seen in wraps, the lining
being often of grey crepe de chine, which
by the way, is the lining par excellence
this season. Rust colored Velette lined
throughout with peacock blue formed
the basis of another loose cape-coat
which has slits for armholes, over which
extension wings can b e caught together
by means of an oxidised silver chain.
Chocolate Normandy cloth is effective-
ly combined with apricot velours on an-
other, with wool chain stitching used in
touches here and there. Navy blue pile
velours formed the body of another cape
coat which was smartly relieved by
bandings or scarlet duvet de laine
strapped in silver braid.

Conservative Models

In the more conservative models, black
wraps were conspicuous, one of which, a
long clinging model of crepe-knit fabric
was trimmed by a deep fringe of black

Tf.nnhjxnara Crepe in plain grounds bordered in rich oriental patterns i$
decidedly new for Spring frocks. This model is wearing a simple frock
entirely untrimmed save by the border of the material. Note the nev> sleeve
and uneven hem line. Roshayiara Crepe comes in a ivide range of colors in-
cluding staple and pastel shades. — Shown by Courtesy of Greenshields

of Montreal.

silk extending from the shoulder line to
the knees. Heavy charmeuse satin, al-
so of black, lined this garment through-
out.

Another wrap designed on loose lines,
yet conserving the coat outline, was of
navy blue twilled pile fabric, lined
throughout with rust colored crepe which
showed sufficiently to lend distinction to
an otherwise simple effect. A tubular
collar was a new point noticed.

Buyers are interested mainly in coats
of widely different character, it was said,
realizing that women will not buy more
than one coat in a season if the design
is suitable for an all-purpose garment.
Thus wraps and coats this spring are
shown in both severely tailored or sports
types and in the category above describ-
ed, in which handsome fabrics, superb
color contrasts, and original designs are
employed.

124

READY-TO-WEAR

Dry Goods Review

Hargrave Garments for Spring are
now receiving their first showing.
You will be greatly surprised with
the refreshing smartness and in-
dividual character of the models.
Important, too, is the fact that
Hargrave Garments are priced in a
manner to insure your approval and
win the patronage of the younger
set to your store.

Misses' and Children's styles, at-
tractive but not extreme, moderate-
ly priced to ensure quick selling.

Hargrave Dress Company

129-139 Spadina Ave., Toronto

REPRESENTATIVES: Eastern and Northern Ontario, A. B. Colwell. Western and Southern Ontario,
R. Kennedy. Toronto, R. 0. Hargrave. Western Canada, J. Howard. Mari-
time Provinces, W. A. Tall mire. Montreal and Quebec, J. A. Michaud.

The McElroy Mfg. Co., yd.

MAKING

FAMOUS FOR THEIR
Fit, Cut, Style,

Hang and Finish.
HEAD OFFICE:
47 Simcoe St. - Toronto

BRAND

(REG.)

"DRESS FABRICS"

F. A. RODDEN & CO.

Dry Good*

Committioncrt and Importer*

52 Victoria Square MONTREAL

THE TRAINOR MFG. CO.

Specialists in Stamped and Made-up
Ladies' Undergarments, Infants' & Children's Dresses
49-53 East 21st Street New York City

STAMPED GOWN SPECIALS
No. 900 — Nainsook Gown. Made up in

three designs, a doz $6.50

64-60 count, ta\\ length, full width, two-
inch hem Sizes 15, 16, 17, 18.
SPECIALS IN INFANTS' AND BABY

DRESSES MADE UP
No. 145-146-147— Short Baby Dress, a

doz $5.50 — Gross $60.00

No. 0145-0146-0147— Long Infants Dress,
a doz $6.00 — Gross . . . $66.00

Stamped Three Designs. Three Shaped

Yokes. Set-in Sleeves.

Terms 3% 10 Day*

INTERNATIONAL IMPORT COMPANY

230 McGill St., Montreal
Representing

Royal Garter Company
NEW YORK

Garters and Armbands

The American Jewelry Co.
NEW YORK

Jewelry for the Smallware and Notion Trade

The National Leather Goods Co.
TORONTO

Ladies' Handbags. Men's Leather Purses, Noveltir

Complete Lines at Keen Values in

Underwear

Shirts

Ties

Gloves

Hosiery

Miller Men's Wear Limited

Miller Bldf.

44-48 York St., - TORONTO

"Everything in Men'* Furniihingt"

Washable Clothing

AND SPECIALTIES

WHITE DUCK COATS In All Styles
SUMMER CLOTHING LUSTRE COATS

WAREHOUSE and AUTO DUSTERS

DUCK AND FLANNEL PANTS

MEN'S APRONS

OFFICIAL BOY SCOUT UNIFORMS AND
COMPLETE OUTFITS

MILITIA AND CADET UNIFORMS
BREECHES AND MILITARY SUPPLIES

The Miller Mfg. Co., Limited

44-46 York Street, - TORONTO

The Oldest and Largest Specialty

Clothing Bouse in Canada.

Dry Goods Revieu

READY-TO-WEAR

125

Founded on style, quality and sin-
cerity, ours is a reputation, to sus-
tain which, we must achieve much.

Our early Spring collection is now
being shown by our representatives
on the road and also in our show-
room.

Correspondence is also invited from
those stores catering to an exacting
clientele interested in striking a new
note in the selling of exclusive
misses' apparel.

The Counter Costume Co., Ltd.

129-139 Spadina Ave., Toronto

REPRESENTATIVES: Eastern and Northern Ontario, A. B. Colwell. Western and Southern Ontario,
R. Kennedy. Toronto, R. O. Hargrave. Western Canada, J. Howard. Mari-
time Provinces, W. A. Tall mire. Montreal and Quebec, J. A. Michaud.

Are You Able to Turn

Your Spare Hours

Into Dollars ?

If not — and you are really trying to cash in
on the spare moments you have during the
day or after working hours — if you have
made up your mind to take hold of some
proposition and sail right in and actually
increase your monthly income without hin-
dering your regular work — surely you will
want to know about MACLEAN'S plan for
making each spare moment count. And
even if you are already making money
during your spare time — still you can add
to your income with very little additional
efforts. For you can have full particulars
of MACLEAN'S plan absolutely free. If
you will merely drop us a card we will send
you the complete details of this plan. It
will cost you nothing to find out exactly
how others with spare time have materially
increased their monthly earnings. For full
information or the agency in your locality,
write and right now,

Dept. WB

MACLEAN PUBLISHING COMPANY, Limited

143-153 University Ave., Toronto.

HAVE YOU HANDLED OUR GOODS BEFORE ?
IF NOT, WHY ?

Let our travellers show you our line.
You'll be surprised

A BETTER MADE GARMENT
FOR LESS MONEY

We Manufacture

Gingham Street, Porch and Apron
Dresses, Girls' Dresses from 3 to 14,
from print and gingham. Also print
house and apron dresses.

Rompers, Creepers, etc.

CANADIAN PERFECT GARMENT CO.

513-515 College St., Toronto

IMPORTERS and MANUFACTURERS

Art Needlework and Fancy Goods

"Peri-Lusta" "Crystal"

Mercerized Cottons Artificial Silk

Embroidery Materials

Fancy Linens and Piece Goods

MADEIRA HAND EMBROIDERED
LINENS and HANDKERCHIEFS

Campbell, Metzger & Jacobson

932-938 Broadway New York Cor. 22nd St.

Canadian Showroom and Factory :

Bay and Wellington Sts., - Toronto, Canada

126

GENERAL SECTION

Dry Goods Review

Ontario Dry Goods Merchants Hold Their

Second Annual Convention at Toronto

Held In Conjunction With Textile Products Show and Sister Con-
ventions — Dr. McMillan Outlines The Award of Minimum Wage
Beard and Says No Attempt Made To Fix Wages But To Establish
Lines Below Which They Must Not Fall — Address by Sir James
Woods — Matter of Trade Discounts

WITH a fair representation of out-
of-town merchants and a large
number from Toronto, the sec-
ond annual convention of the Dry
Goods section of the Ontario Retail
Merchants Association was held in the
King Edward Hotel, Toronto, on Febru-
ary 13th. This convention was held in
conjunction with the Textile Products
Exhibition in which some eighty-five
manufacturers participated, and with
sister conventions which were held all
during that week. The president, C.
Umphries of Petrolia, was unable to be
present through illness. J. P. Tweddell,
president of the Toronto branch of the
R.M.A., presided over the convention.

Minimum Wage Board Findings

The first address of the afternoon was
given by Dr. J. W. McMillan, chairman
of the Minimum Wage Board. He ex-
plained the recent award of the Board
with regard to the minimum wages to
be paid to female help in retail stores
in Ontario. At the outset he wished it
to be understood, he said, that the Mini-
mum Wage Board did not make any at-
tempt to fix wages; it merely drew the
line below which wages must not fall
and this line was determined by the cost
of living at the time of the judgment.
The minds of the people of Ontario had
accepted the social principle that the
same right of living that is applied to
alms houses, houses of Industry and
Homes for Incurables should also apply
to the women and girls employed in in-
dustrial concerns. Dr. McMillan stated
that in trying to bring about better con-
ditions amongst the female help in re-
tail and industrial concerns, the Board
had had both the sympathy and co-opera-
tion of the employers throughout the
province. Any decent employer wanted
to pay his female help a living wage.

The Chairman was emphatic in his
statement that the award of the Board
or the intent of the Board was not to
interfere with promotion at all, with
bonuses or any other internal economy
of an organization. They were not try-
ing to interfere with the war of prizes
that was part of the great game of com-
petition, but with the war of sustenance.
The only thing that they would inter-
fere with would be the employer who
wanted to do this unsocial thing — make
his help work for a wage that was not
a fair living wage. He stated that the
awards made in the cases of Toronto
Hamilton, London, and Ottawa were as
much the awards of the merchants of
those cities as the Beard itself.

"Facts vs. Faith"

Sir James Woods, president of the
Gordon McKay Co. Ltd., of Toronto, was
the speaker of the afternoon session, his
subject being "Facts vs. Faith." His
definition of the true optimist was the
man with cheerful yesterdays and con-
fident to-morrows. While he believed
there were innumerable things to justi-
fy our faith in the future of this* coun-
try he warned against an optimism that
did not have a great deal to justify it-
self, or that was temporary and ficti-
tious. He instanced the national debt
of Canada which in 1914 was 40 millions
and was now 130 millions. He referred
to the orgy of money that had been
spent in this country on railroads and
quoted the general manager of the Bank
of Montreal as saying "you could create
prosperity on the desert of Sahara if
you spent as much money there as we
are spending in Canada."

After referring to the amount of im-
ports from the United States as. show-
ing our spending in that country much
greater than in the United Kingdom, Sir
James made an appeal for Made-in-Can-
ada buying and selling. If that were
impossible, the United Kingdom should
be our second customer, not the United
States.

The solution of the present difficulty,
said Sir James was work, hard work,
honest work, intelligent work. It would
do no good that half the people worked
at a high wage; until employment was
general we would not see any return
to prosperity that came near the pre-war
days.

World Willing to Work

"I have a list in my hand," said Sir
James, "of the names of 25 Toronto
wholesale dry goods houses that failed
during the period 1880-1905. We can-
not equal that nowadays. The Wiorld is
full of people willing to work; the world
is full of wonderful resources. Why,
then, the unemployment? Why the de-
pression and stagnation of trade? Not
solely, of course, but largely, because
of lack ,of faith. By faith we won the
war and kept up production and creat-
ed prosperity and got up such an im-
petus that things kept booming for
two years after the war ended. Then
we became timid, lost our nerve, lost
our faith; people stopped buying,
wheels ceased moving and general un-
employment followed."

Then Sir James took a crack at the
idle rich. "These are, of course," said
he, "too many drones. The rich, par-

ticularly, do not work hard enough. Too
many motors, too much golf, too much
pleasure, and until this is changed there
is no use criticizing the working man
for not giving a fair day's work for a
fair day's pay.

"We are at a stage when it is the
plain duty of every trader and manufac-
turer to operate wisely and economical:
and be satisfied with a reasonable pro-
fit," declared Sir James, advocating such
a course for helping reduce the cost of
living and getting back to bedrock busi-
ness conditions. "Character, not com-
merce, is the fundamental principle in-
volved."

R. Smallpiece
R. Smallpiece, of the W. R. Brock Co.,
Ltd., of Toronto, gave a brief talk, sug-
gesting several points that would be use-
ful to the retail merchants in conducting
their business, and to salespersons be-
hind the counter. Industry, intelligence,
integrity — these were three words he
emphasized as ones that might well be
the guiding principles of the retail mer-
chants or the salesperson. The day of
small things should not be despised; it
was frequently the most modest people
who made big successes in life and Mr.
Smallpiece gave some illustrations to his
point. He referred to the E. & S. Cur-
rie Co., Ltd., of Toronto, which, he said,
had been started by Edward Currie
years ago in a cellar. Mr. Currie took
his noon hours to sell the ties he made
in this cellar; to-day their organization
was a credit to the city. If people would
put their whole heart and energy into
their work, it would be successful. Al-
ways be courteous and obliging and,
when successful, don't get a swelled
head, was the advice of Mr. Smallpiece.
He also stressed the desirability of team
work in any sales' organization.

Fixing Re-sale Price

Some discussion arose over the prac-
tice of manufacturers in fixing the re-
sale price of merchandise to the retailer
wihout considering the overhead of the
retailer. The case of silk thread was
cited and one retailer stated that this
had lately been fixed at 8 cents, while
the merchant had to pay 6Y2 cents for
it. This with an overhead of 24 or
25 per cent, made it necessary for the
retailer to sell at an actual loss.

Discounts

Out of this matter arose another
which was the subject of a strong reso-
lution moved by Mr. Anderson, of St.
(Continued on next page)

Dry Goods Review)

GENERAL SECTION

127

BIG YEAR FOR
HOUSE BUILDING

House Furnishing Men Have Big
Opportunity for Business

"This is the biggest house-building
year in Canada," stated Rotarian A. R.
Whittemore, in speaking to the Rotary
Club, Toronto. "Fourteen thousand
houses have been built so far this year
and 11,000 last year, but with 70,000
marriages and the coming of 117,000
immigrants, who will themselves require
at least 20,000 houses, Canada is short
165,000 homes. In a growing country a
corresponding growth of building is re-
quired. At the present time no industry
is so well fortified. And its effect on un-
employment is an important one, be-
cause for every 200 men set to work on
a building 500 are employed in the allied
industries."

Mr. Whittemore, in touching on the
point as to whether low cost of labor
decreased the amount of building, in-
stanced the Province of Quebec, and stat-
ed that the building increase there last
year was 17 per cent, and the cost of
labor 21 per cent, less than in Ontario,

THE INDISPENSABLE WRAP

For formal occasions this season may be
developed in navy blue tricotine with
elaborate trimming of black silk fiinge.
A roll collar of oriental brocade relieve-;
the severity of the neckline. — Wrap by
Courtesy of the National Garment
Company of Montreal.

Buyers' Guide

About twenty million pounds is
a conservative estimate of Cana-
da's yearly wool production. The
estimated value of the sheep in
this country in 1920 was $37,263,-
000. A new Canadian industry
will be begun in June when a
wool combing plant will be com-
pleted. The machinery for it is
being imported from Bradford,
Eng., the world centre for the
combing industry.

Ralph Grossman, a Canadian
from Montreal, dropped a bomb
into the recent convention of the
International Association of Cloth-
ing Designers by introducing a
novelty called the "Sweep Pleat"
coat. Here is how one New York
paper describes the innovation in
masculine attire:

"The 'Sweep Pleat' is a sport-
coat basically, but it is more than
that, much more, and then some,
consisting of pleats under the
arms, which allow a luxuriously
easy swing of the arm to the golf-
er, the cop, or the rider. The
pleats moreover, look like an ac-
cordion of such modest dimen-
sions, and for so brief a flashing
moment as the arm is swung, that
they may, with fairish accuracy be
called 'invisible.' It is these arm-
pit insertions which name the nov-
el coat the 'sweep pleat.' "

The introduction of this garment
at the Designers' Convention, by
Mr. Grossman occasioned the only
excitement of the meeting. "A
dent as deep as the Sweep Pleat's
armpits was put in the con-
vention audience by the Cana-
dian brother's invention," one ac-
count declares. "The Sweep Pleat
was donned by a dozen volunteer
living 'forms' and the air of the
blue room of the McAlpine hotel
punctured with picturesque gest-
ures symbolizing golf, the police
force in action, and Tod Sloan at
the Derby. So great was the de-
mand for the tests of the Sweep
Pleat that the audience had to be
called to order and finally quiet
was restored."

The homespun bag, called also
the 'habitant,' the 'Murray Bay' and
the 'French-Canadian' bag, was or-
iginated in Charlotte County, New
Brunswick, by Charlotte County
Cottage Craft and not by women
of Quebec as is popularly suppos-
ed. Miss Grace Helen Mowat is
president of this association.

More than 75 distinct varieties
of furs were contained in the col-
lection sold in New York on Feb-
ruary 6. Fur men declared that
the Canadian skins shown were
notable for their quality, the mar-
tens receiving particular mention.

compared with a 9 per cent, decrease in
building in this Province.

Building costs reached their peak in
May, 1920, when the increase was 184
per cent, over 1913. In October, 1921,
the cost was only 98 per cent, over 1913,
or 47 per cent, lower than the peak.

ONTARIO DRY GOODS

(Continued from page 126)

Thomas and seconded by Mr. Fair of
Brockville. It was the question of dis-
counts and it was claimed by merchants
that the large mail-order house and de-
partment stores were given larger dis-
counts than the smaller ones which en-
abled them to under-sell the merchant
right in his own town or city. A reso-
lution was passed calling the attention
of the Dominion Board at Ottawa to this
matter and asking them to bring it to
the attention of the manufacturers to
see if some remedy could be made.

Full Report Next Issue

More with regard to this convention
and the Textile Exhibit will be given in
the next issue of Dry Goods Review.

News of the Trade

John Ogilvy, one of the outstanding
figures in trade in Montreal, celebrated
his 97th birthday on January 18.

Hon. Geo. E. Amyot, the new presi-
dent of the Banque National?, is pre-
sident of the Dominion Corset Co.

Of the two new directors for the Stan-
dard Bank of Canada, appointed recent-
ly, one is A. R. Auld, managing direc-
tor of Nisbet & Auld, Limited, Toronto.

Mr. L. Blumberg now heads the Silk
fabric department of Belding-GortL
celli, Limited, at their Montreal Branch.
The main feature of this change is the
added faciility for taking care of out-
of-town buyers.

On Friday evening, February 3, De-
laney's store, Belleville, Ont., was tihe
scene of a most enjoyable dinner and
dance given by Mr. and Mrs. Delaney.
Dancing and select entertainment fol-
lowed the dinner, and guests pronounced
it the "best ever."

Messrs. Woodhouse and Co., whose
head office is in London, Eng., and who
have stores in various parts of the
world, including the city of Montreal,
have opened up for business on Yonge
St., Toronto. The carpets, rugs and
linoleums they carry come direct from
the British Isles but the furniture is
Canadian-made.

The dry goods firm of Claxton and
Co., has purchased the Simpson house
property in Lindsay, Ont., and intends to
fit it up into an up Ito-date store. Ow-
ing to the steady growth of business,
conditions are too congested in the pres-
ent site. The manager promises that
the new store will be one of the finest
of its kind in the country.

128

BUYERS' GUIDE

Dry Goods Review

ROBERT iyiriwte(CW'SS.ex\%X

GIMP your PATTERNS

With Hardaker's

"EASICUT"

MACHINES

It makes them more attractive.
Economical, Fast, Practical, Neat.

E. W. McMARTIN

45 St. Alexander St. MONTREAL

Canadian Linoleums
& Oilcloths, Limited

Cornwall, Ont.

SPRING, 1922

New range of patterns

now ready for delivery.
Send for small sample
book and price list.

MILLINERY ACCESSORIE S

HATS, NOVELTIES
FANCY FEATHERS

•««• ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS

All mail orders carefully attended to
Write for samples and quotations

JOS. LEONE & CO.

Limited

Wholesale Milliners
17 St. Helen St. Montreal

Brantford Felt
Novelty Co.

Brantford, - Canada

Manufacturers of

High Grade Pennants, Cushion Tops,

Felt Emblems, Paper Hats, Advertising

Novelties.

ORDER NOW OUR WOOL FELT

TAMS

SPORTS, io SHADES

7.50 PER DOZ.
1914 VALUE AND A BIG SELLER

There are some terms used in
the hosiery trade, with which
salespeople are not often as fam-
iliar as they should be. The fol-
lowing are a few of the more im-
portant:

Seamless stockings are knitted
in tubular form, instead of being
made up in the piece and then
sewn together. They are shap-
ed in the knitting, then stretched
and pressed.

Full-fashioned hose are knitted
flat and shaped by controlling the
number of stitches in legs, heels,
instep and toe. They are then
seamed; the full length of the
stocking.

Although most of the big cities
in South America are generally
classed with London, Paris and
New York in the annals of fashion,
it is interesting to note that there
are no corset factories in Brazil.
Instead, corsets are made by hand
in small shops either for stock or
to customer's order. Machinery is
seldom used, although one shop is
reported to have adopted an eye-
leting machine. Fairly inexpens-
ive grades of pink or blue cloth
are used, the more expensive kinds
together with lacings, eyelets and
boning materials being imported
from abroad.

The importance of the much-
maligned skunk as a fur-bearing
animal is emphasized by the fact
that its pelt brings to trappers
on this continent $3,000,000 an-
nually, the output a year being
about 2,000,000 skins. So prom-
ising is the skunk fur industry,
that within the last few years,
skunk-breeding has been under-
taken on scientific principles. It
was started in 1914 near Chicago
by the Skunk Development Bur-
eau, and two years later the stock
was removed to the Illinois Agri-
cultural Experiment Station,
where experiments are still being
continued. The breeders are work-
ing to produce a pure black skunk
since the market demands a black
pelt or as near .it as possible.
Skunks thrive best in cool lati-
tudes, so that Canada offers the
best conditions for breeding them
for fur. Feeding is a minor con-
sideration because they will eat
most anything. Their chief diet at
the Illinois Experiment Station
consisted of mice, sour milk, pea-
nuts, dried prunes, stale bread and
table scraps.

npE

TEXTILES.— GENTLEMAN ( PRACTICAL)
well known to whole of the hosiery man-
ufacturing trade and in constant touch with
same is willing to represent merchants desir-
ous of being kept alive to the latest fashions
and productions. Kindly write Mr. Henry
Straw, No. 2. William Road, West BridKford.
Nntting-ham, England.

IRISH FIRM OF AGENTS WITH FIRST-
class connection open to represent on com-
mission Manufacturers of Fleece Underwear
and Ladies' Artificial Silk Hose. Reply Esox
980 Dry Goods Review, 143 University Ave.,
Toronto, Ont.

Buttons

Plain and Fancy Pearls

We are making a very

complete line of all Kinds

Write for Samples and Prices

SHULER BUTTON CO.

Brantford, Ont.

HABERDASHERY

Every description of Haberdashery and

Smallwares for Drapery, Dressmaking,

Millinery, Fancy Needlework, Outfitting

and Tailoring Trades.

FREDERICK NEWTON & CO.

8&9 Hamsell Street, London, E.C I.

Established 1871

Th<

Band

SANITARY NAPKINS

Conveniently and attractively packed; half
dozen and dozen cartons ; individual transparent
envelopes; and compressed in individual boxes.

Write for interesting prices.
HYGIENIC FIBRE COMPANY
200 Broadway New York City

Red Seal Zephyr Ginghams

Everett Classics
Eden Cloth-Pe^y Cloth-Blankets

115 Worth St., NY

RIBBONS OF DISTINCTION

"J-C" Ribbons have peculiar
charm. Widely advertised to
the consumer under tbelr
trade-mark names for tba
protection of the dealer.
"SATIN DB LUXE"
l\«#'\ Ln 1 "TRODSSEAD"

\fy>\ -»ST-V "LADY FAIR"

"SANKANAC" "VIOLET"
"DEMOCRACY"
JOHNSON, COWDIN & CO., 40 E. 90th St,
New York. N.Y. Made In U.S.A.

MESH BAGS

In Silver, Gun Metal and Green
Gold Finish, Metal Frames for
Ladies' Hand Bags.

Made in Canada for the Canadian Trade

WHITING & DAVIS CO.
SHERB ROOKE, QUE.

0PD B. Rsk&Co.

Afre Chicago

M E R C H ANDU'E

New York Salesroom :
Open Throughout the Year
411 Fifth Avenue

WILL P. WHITE, LIMITED

Montrea
137 McGiU Street

Head Office:

Toronto
65 Simcoe St.

Manufacturers' Agents and Distributor*
Textile and Smallwares Specialities.
Wholesale and Manufacturers Only Supplied.

Yarn Merchants in Glasgow, anxious to open
up business in Canada, wish to get into touch
with a reliable firm who deal with Manufac-
turers in that country. We can supply nil
kinds of varns, cotton, linen, woollen, jute,
silk, also artificial silk and shall be glad to
snte'r into communication with any firm in a
position to open up a business connection for
us. In reply, please furnish full particulars
and trive trade references to J. M. SYMING-
TON. S5 Miller Street. Glasgow.

Dry Goods Review

BUYERS' GUIDE

129

CAPS

Men's and Boys' Caps

Children's Tarns; Boys' Etons

Also caps made from your

own materials

Universal Hat & Cap Co.

London, Ont.

TAPES

ALL WIDTHS AND QUALITIES
CARRIED IN STOCK

Walter Williams & Co.

508 READ BLDG., MONTREAL
J WELLINGTON ST. W., TORONTO

GERSTENZANG BROS.

Popular Priced
Flowers and Feathers

670-674 Broadway, NEW YORK CITY

"HOOSIER"

The best 36-inch brown
domestic in America

Buy it by the bale;
tell it by the bolt

Indiana Cotton Mills

Cannelton,Ind.,U.S.A.

T. H. Birmingham & Co.

LIMITED
533 College St., TORONTO

Makers of

Women's High Grade
Neckwear
•The Exclusive Neckwear House"

B LAN K E T S

PRIESTLEY BROTHERS

Blanket Manufacturers
GROVE MILLS HALIFAX

Teltgnmj and Cablet, "Blankets" Halifax
Codec, A.B.C. 5th, and Benlley's

LARGEST MANUFACTURERS

Artificial Flowers. Plants and Vines,
Window Decorations, Japanese and
Chinese Decorations, Papier Mache
Novelties, Electric Lighted Flower
Bushes. Write for our Catalogue. It's
free for the asking.

The Botanical Decorating Company

(Incorporated)

208 W. Adams St., Chicago, 111.

STERLING DRESSCOT

Popular-Priced Ladies' and Misses'

DRESSES and SKIRTS
220 KING ST. WEST - TORONTO

ADELAIDE 3857

iSMALLWARES

AND

Hosiery

The Robert Hyslop Co umuip

HAMILTON. ONTARIO

February 10th marked the de-
mise of winter headgear in New
York and the opening of the straw
hat season, at the annual Fashion
Show of the Retail Milliners' As-
sociation of America. New hat
creations were presented with an
eye to the latest hairdressing
modes. Accordingly the new
season's hat will become the high,
fan-shaped coiffure, at the same
time allowing for the moderate
amount of waves and curls which
will lie rather flat to the head. The
display ushered in the new Spring
color "Dandelion," a yellow vary-
ing from a dull sunlight shade to a
high orange. Perwinkle, brilliant
red, and combinations of black and
white were more prominent in the
straws, while old blue led in the
homespun and tweed sports mod-
els. Small close-fitting shapes
were in evidence, but the n.sw type
showed a broad rim with width
running to the sides with a soft
crown of irregular lines and sim-
ple trimming.

Any details of Princess Mary's
wedding on the 28th of February
are of particular interest now, and
nothing so delights the imagina-
tion as the description of her fin-
ery. Foremost of course stands
her wedding robe. The bridal gown
will be of cloth of silver, veiled
with an overdress of silver lace,
and embroidered pearls. The
court train, four yards long and
fifty inches wide, has been made
specially of magnificent silver
shot duchesse satin .embroidered in
Indian silver and silk, with a shawl
collar of real lace cascading down
the sides. The bridal veil will be
the one worn by Queen Mary at
her own wedding. The brides-
maids' dresses will be of silver tis-
sue and lace, and they will wear
wreaths of silver rosebuds.

Fashioned stockings are knitted
on a machine which shapes them
by controlling the needles. They
have a dart or gusset in the calf
of the leg.

(LTljc Canadian |£ai»jj Press (fo.,
Jtlimxteti

Kitchener, Ont.
Manufacturers of

"The Canadian Lady dress"

Ginghams, Crepes, Chambrays, Prints
Write us for catalogue and Prices

QPENING FOR CUSTOM LADIES' TAIL-
oring, ready made and millinery in city of
twenty thousand. 1st class, long established,
good location for energetic man or woman.
Write. Box 779, care Dry Goods Review, i43
University Avenue, Toronto, Ont.

AyrANUFACTURERS' AGENCY WANTS
up-to-date and rightly priced lines for
Pacific Coast territory. Dresses, Hosiery,
Gloves, Corsets, Neckwear, Novelties,

Leather bags. At once. Address manufac-
turers' Agency, 501 Carter-Cotton Bldg.,
Vancouver.

Bias Tapes and
Mending Yarn

We specialize in these necessary,
every-day lines. Write for sam-
ples and quotations.

BATES & KEIR
Peterborough

COMFORTERS

COTTON— DOWN— WOOL
FILLED

The Toronto Feather & Down Co. Ltd.

2154-56-58 Dundas St. W., Toronto

VEILINGS and
SILK N ETS

HODGES & LETTAU

232 McGill St. Montreal

CLIMAX PAPER
BALERS

ALL STEEL-FIREPROOF
'Turn* Watte

into Profit"
12 SIZES
Send for Catalog

CLIMAX BALER CO.
Hamilton, Ont.

Canada's

Largest Makers of

Cotton Flags

Write for Pricet

THECOPP, CLARK CO.,

517 Wellington St. West Toronto

SILKS

I represent In this country some of the
most reliable Manufacturers of Hlgh-
Grade SILKS, in plain, fancy weaves.

Quality and Novelty Is my motto.

J. H. GAGNON

108 Dandurand Bldg. Montreal
J. F. Carnall & Co., England

HOSIERY MANUFACTURERS
Men's, Women's & Children's

Heather Hose
Complete Stock Carried in Toronto by

A. M. Duncan

39 Adelaide St. W.. - TORONTO

Fred Jones & Company

Manufacturer* and Importers

Babies' Hand Crochet Coodt Notion*

Babies' Hand Knit Goods Novelties

Art Needlework Materials

Room 712 Empire Building

64 WELLINGTON ST. WEST TORONTO

Fraser's Women's Wear Directory, pocket size,
issued each July,

Fraser's Men's Wear Directory, pocket size. Is-
sued each September, and

Fraser's Textile Products Directory, each Janu-
ary, a combination of the above two books.
Subscription in Canada $2.00 a year. Sample
copy on request.

Fraser Publishing Company

H. O. 128 Bleury Street, Montreal
Br. Office, 122 Wellington W., Toronto.

130

DRY GOODS REVIEW

INDEX TO ADVERTISERS

Acme Glove Works, Ltd 86-87

Albion Knitting- Co., Ltd 75

Allen Bros. Co., Ltd G

Allen Silk Mills, Ltd 6

Anderson & Thomson 24

Atlantic Underwear, Ltd 66

Baker, Richard L., & Co 7,1-74

Bastard, J. & W 20

Bates & Innes, Ltd 71

Bates & Keir 129

Belding Corticelli, Ltd Back Cover

Birmingham, T. H., Co., Ltd 129

Botanical Decorating Co., Inc., The. 129

Brantford Felt & Novelty Co 128

Brock Co., W. R. (Montreal) 27

Brock Co., W. R. (Toronto)

Front Cover and 29

Burritt, A., & Co 66

Button Sales, Ltd 101

Butterfield, Fred, & Co., Inc 40

Campbell, Metzger & Jacobson 125

Canadian Handkerchiefs, Ltd 79

Canadian Linoleums & Oilcloths,

Ltd 128

Canadian Lady Dress Co., Ltd., The 129

Canadian Leather Products, Ltd.... 85

Canadian Perfect Garment Co 125

Carnall, J. F., & Co t 129

Carr, James, & Sons, Ltd 21

Chatillon, Mouly, Rousell & Cie 101

Celtic Knitting Co., Ltd., The 77

Chassagne, M., Ltd 100

Clatworthy & Son, Ltd 112

Climax Baler Co 129

Chipman Holton Knitting Co., Ltd.. 67

Circle-Bar Knitting Co., Ltd 70

Colonial Fastener Co., Ltd 8

Counter Costume Co 125

Congoleum Cp. of Canada, Ltd

Inside Back Cover

Copp-Clark Co 129

Craftana 24

Dale Wax Figure Co., Ltd 110

Davis, Henry, & Co., Ltd 68

Delfosse & Co., Ltd 105

Dominion Oilcloth & Linoleum Co.,

Ltd 113

Dods Knitting Co., The 76

Dominion Textile Co., Ltd 41

Dominion Ostrich Feather Co., Ltd. 52

Dominion Wadding Co 93

E
European Novelty Co 101

Fainer Knitting Mills, Ltd., The. . . . 77

Fisk, D. B., & Co 52, 128

Ford Motor Co. of Can., Ltd 28

Fogelin & Cie 24

Fraser Publishing Co 129

Garland, John M., Son & Co., Ltd... 3

Gagnon, J. H 129

Gerstenzang Brcs 129

Gipe-Hazard Store Service Co., Ltd. 105

Gibson, Wm., & Son, Ltd 18

Goderich Knittinp; Co., Ltd., The... 77

Greenshields, Ltd 1

Godde Albert Bed : n & Cie 40

Gossard, Can. H. W., Co., The 91

Goulding, G., & Sens 53

Hargrave Dress Co 124

Hawley, A. E., & Co., Ltd 30

Hawthorn Mills, Ltd 64

Heron & Taylor 11

Hollins, Wm., & Co., Ltd 21

Hodges & Lettau 129

Hollins Mill Co., Ltd., The 19

Hodgson, Sumner & Co., Ltd 10

Horrockses, Crewdson & Co., Ltd.. . 16
Hoover Suction Sweeper of Canada,

Ltd 7

Hoyle, Joseph, & Son, Ltd 25

Hyslop Co., Robert, Ltd 129

Hygienic Fibre Co 128

Infants' Footwear, Ltd 24

Indiana Cotton Mills 129

International Import Co 124

International Textile Exhibitions,

Ltd 26

Island Spinning Co 21

Jamieson, Alex., & Co 119

Jauffred & Gariel 18

Jennens, Welsh & Co.. Ltd 22

Johnston, Cowdin & Co 128

Jones & Co., Fred 129

Kent McClain, Ltd

Inside Front Cover, 121

Kenwood Mills, Ltd 65

King Silk Co., A. S., Ltd 2

King, John, & Son 16

Lace Goods Co., Ltd

Lamson Co., The Ill

Lavoie Knitting Co 70

Lazare & Novak

Leone & Co 128

McElroy Mfg. Co., Ltd 124

McMartin, E. W 128

Mercury Mills, Ltd 78

Merchants Liquidators. Regd 93

Miller Mfg. Co., Ltd 124

Miller Men's Wear, Lt.l 124

Mitchell Woollen Co 70

Morton, Robert, & Sons 16

Monarch Knitting Co., Ltd 55

Morton Sundour Fabrics, Ltd 4

Moyer, A. W., & Co 11

Moulton Mfg. Co., Ltd 100

Mouterde, Chas 46

Muser Bros. (Canada), Ltd 9

Nerlich & Co 98

Newton, Frederick, & Co 128

Newton & Carpenter 11

Palmenberg's Sons, Inc., J. R 112

Parisian Corset Mfg. Co., Ltd ' 92

Peerless Underwear Co., Ltd 68

Phillips, R. A 96

Phoenix Novelry Co 100

Priestly Bros 129

Prime & Rankin, Ltd 118

Pug-h Specialty Co., Ltd 96

Racine, Alphonse, Ltd 12

Rigg Bros., Ltd 23

Ritchie, H. P., & Co 13

Ritchie, John E 70

Rodden, F. A., & Co 124

Robertson, J. M., Knitting Co 75

Ross, David W 47

Sale, Julian, Leather Goods Co.,

Ltd., The 99

Sandham Co., The 93

Shuler Button Co 128

Silks, Ltd 46

Scott, Peter, & Co., Ltd ' 17

Smith, Hogg & Co 128

Starr, C. H 52

Sterling Dress Co 129

Stoffell & Co 11

Thomson Knitting Co., Ltd 69

Toronto Feather & Down Co., Ltd.. 129

Turnbull, C, Co., Ltd 72

Trainor Mfg. Co 124

129

Universal Hat & Cap Co

Viegelmenn, Robert 128

Walker Bin & Store Fixture Co.... 110

Wayagamack Pure Kraft 5

Watson, John 22

Warner Bros. Co.,- The 90

Western Leather Goods Co., Ltd...

Whiting & Davis Co 128

White, Will P., Ltd 128

Williams, Walter, & Co., Ltd.... 22, 129

Wilson & Co IS

Wright Sons, Wm. E., Co 104

Wrinch, McLaren, Ltd 101

DRY GOODS REVIEW

X'M<sc «««««;:;>:« «««««» «»«««» ««« w «« «» ^ « ««x « n:; ««•«»«

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Try to Tear it

Silk is the quality test of your
ribbon stock.

And the tear test is the proof of
the quantity of silk in your ribbons
which makes the quality.

This test proves whether your ribbons
are mostly silk or mostly weighting.

Weighted ribbons tear easily, they rot
quickly, deteriorate and cause loss.

Beldings ribbons are strong because
made with less weighting — they stand
up to every test of ribbon quality — they
make friends for your store by making
satisfied customers.

Made in Canada, you save heavy import duties
— make a better profit.

Plain and fancy weaves in all seasonable shades.

Toronto

Montreal

Vancouver

Winnipeg

IEW

Vol. XXXIV. No. 3

THE MACLEAN PUBLISHING COMPANY, LIMITED

PUBLICATION OFFICE: TORONTO, CANADA

MARCH, 1922

F^ ^iL-:'

"WABASSO" COTTONS

CanrvbTves, Lo»>$tloti\s,CiTcul3T PilUw

CotUm. Plaifv v HtwstiJcteA Slips,

SveettA&PfeihV Me»»«tV.UKti Sliet&>

VicUrria Lswr\vPiauei, Midiy Twills.

&Ti.(Ui (^nstttrfKtGowRTwiTlsVbilei

1HELVTABASS0 COTIOKCO.

^ TMRce rivers 1 -"" Teo P.Q.

-=H r-r-

"The
Sign of

PURITY

»»

_ V/kbasso
Trade TIaTK rveg'i

WABASSO COTTONS

DRY GOODS REVIEW

The Priceless

Value of Your

"Store -Appeal"

11 huh illinium iiiiiiiiiiiiihuiiiiiiiii immmiiini iiiimi iimim

MIMIMIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIMIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIINIIIIIIIUIMIIIIIMIIIIIIIMI

"INTER-PLACE-ABLE UNITS'*

Kent-McClain Show-cases and Store-equip-
ment make every possible use of your store's
"display possibilities," enhance the quality of
your offerings; assist, not impede your sales-
people; and increase sales volume and profit
to the' maximum.

(Joronto ShowCase Co) Limited

183 CARLAW AVE., TORONTO - OFF QUEEN ST. E.

" INTER-PLACE-ABLE " UNITS.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

GREENSHIELDS LIMITED

Your Mail Orders

deserve the very best attention. The same prompt and
courteous service rendered through our salesmen, or to
the buyer who visits our warehouse, is available to every
merchant through our mail order department.

We specialize in handling orders sent in by mail. Our
splendid facilities for handling this business assure you
that your order will be promptly looked after, and will
receive the same careful attention that your personal
supervision would ensure.

Mail your order to —

GREENSHIELDS [LIMITED

"The Hub of the Dry Goods trade in Canada"
17 VICTORIA SQUARE MONTREAL

Salesrooms from the Atlantic to the Pacific

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Hum ii 1 1 1 ii i it i in i it j i it i iiiiiiiiiin iirniiiif im i tti i in i tin iiittiii iiitni imii

l d

Japan

silks

W1SS

a
n i

A Chinese Flapper

Georgette Canton Crepe

Taffeta Duchesse Paillette

Crepe Charmeuse

French

Silks

in great variety for

Easter
Trade

Crepe de Chine,
Satins Habutai,

Crepe Satin

VISIT OUR WAREHOUSE

& &. Etng g>tlk Company

lUmireb

Zurich, Switzerland
Lyons, France

"ttye g>tlfe J|ouse of Canaba"

59-61 Wellington St. West, Toronto

Foreign Offices:

Yokohama, Japan
Chefoo, China

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iHi

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Cheer Up Your Stock for Easter !

For immediate delivery, we offer you the newest and
brightest designs and colorings in the following: —

Voiles,
Organdies,
Dimities,
Batistes,

Ginghams,

Chambrays,

Prints,

Costume Ducks & Drills,

Cotton Crepes and Seer-

Plain and Fancy Repscords suckers,

Fancy or Plain Colored Skirtings. The latest shades in
Sport Flannels. A special range of small designs in the
New Cretonne Dress Material.

John M. Garland, Son
& Co., Ltd.

Ottawa

Canada

Wholesale Dry Goods

g*g^ga

^^^

'Ulllllll

DRY GOODS REVIEW

lililiillililillM

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For Summer Selling

"JAZZ FABRICS"

An European Novelty

Cretonne Effects on Dress Materials

"VOILES"

Printed, Embroidered
Rice Crepe
Sheenore, Silk Stripe

Novelty Organdies
Printed Foulards
Ginghams & Chambrays

For the BEST VALUES at the LOWEST POSSIBLE PRICES,
buy merchandise from our

11 DEPARTMENTS

A.C. — Cotton Staples

D. — Dress Goods and Silks

F. — Fancy Goods

H. — Hosiery

L. — Linens, Handkerchiefs

M. — Laces, Ribbons, House Fur-
nishings

R. — Ready-to-Wear
S. — Smallwares
U. — Underwear
W. — Woollens

HODGSON, SUMNER & CO., LIMITED

83-91 St. Paul St., West

21 St. Sulpice St.
MONTREAL

84-92 LeRoyer St.

Sample Rooms :

7 Charest St., QUEBEC Windsor Hotel, OTTAWA

Carlaw Bldg., 28-30 Wellington St. West, TORONTO

Can. Bank of Commerce Bldg., THREE RIVERS New Sherbrooke House, SHERBROOKE

Empire Bldg., HAMILTON Grigg House, LONDON

503 Mercantile Bldg., VANCOUVER 50 Bon Accord St., MONCTON, N.B.

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 : 1 1 1 1 1 in 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 11 1 1:1 1 11 11 1 111 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 in 1 1 in 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 n 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1

IMIIIIII ,1-

DRY GOODS REVIEW

iiiiiiiiiiiiiiHimiiiiimmimiiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiii

WAYAGAMACK

PURE

GLAZED

KRAFT

UNGLAZED

FINESTRIPE

PLAIN

BROADSTRIPE

According to the old adage,

"A PENNY SAVED IS A PENNY GAINED."

If users of wrapping paper and paper bags always insist on
being supplied with

WAYAGAMACK PURE KRAFT

many dollars a year can be saved, for the simple reason that
it gives fifty per cent, more service than wrapping papers of
an inferior grade and consequently costs less.

Any paper wholesaler will Prove the truth of this statement
by a practical demonstration. It is unrivalled as a paper
for the manufacture of envelopes, notion bags and paper con-
tainers of all descriptions.

Wayagamack Pure Kraft Which Means

Strength and Security

can be obtained from all paper wholesalers from Halifax to
Vancouver.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

For Spring

OUR new, two-tone silk, heather mixture
Winsome Maid Hosiery is absolutely
the correct thing to wear with the fash-
ionable homespuns. We have recently
added several new, attractive color com-
binations to this line, which is sure to be
one of the most profitable for dealers to
feature this season.

Winsome Maid pure silk lines are
unusually attractive this Spring.
They come in a wide variety of
lovely colors and smart weaves.

Write for Prices.

Allen Silk Mills Limited

43 DAVIES AVE.

TORONTO

The Finest Trade buys " Winsome Maid "

• PURE THREAD "

SILK HOSIERY

MADE IN CANADA

easonable Lines

A. B. C. Hosiery

These are profitable lines for Spring selling —

three-quarter length heather mixture sock with roll
top — for children.

heather mixture in regular lengths 1 and 1 rib —
for children.

pure silk 1 and 1 rib (beautiful quality), and A.B.C.
silk and wool mixture, 1 and 1 rib — for children,
silk and wool mixtures, many combinations of col-
ors — for men and women.

cashmere, plain weave, new heather mixtures for
Spring — for men and women.

All seamless weave, reinforced heels and toes.

B. C.

Allen Bros. Co., Limited

883 DUNDAS ST. E. - TORONTO

A. B. C. is a Hose Guarantee

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Different and Exclusive

A clever re- production of composition dotted voile, with all its
attractiveness plus this advantage; easily ironed, no spots to
break- 60 cents. Colors: Black, Brown, Navy and Copen.

SILKETTE TISSUE

A silk an d cotton mixture, small designs, light colorings.
Very new and attractive. Worth inspection.

Full Line of

Stoffel s Organdy and Dotted Swiss

jDroft us a line to make sure of seeing this Range.

Buy at Headquarters

CANADA VEILING CO.,LIMITED

84-86 Wellington Street West

Toronto

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Spring Time is Veil Time

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Here are some strong numbers.

41517 Dotted Veiling

17597- $9.00 Doz.
Black, Brown, Navy.

17603 — $15.00 Doz.
Black, Brown, Navy.

Veil

17598- $10.80 Doz.

Black, Brown, Navy.

6469 - $24.00 Doz.

Black-White, Black-Henna,

Brown-Henna.

41550 - $15.00 Doz.

Black, Brown, Navy.

6457 — $24.00 Doz.

Black-White, Black-Henna,

Brown-Henna.

1 hese are winners in any company

'Mona Lisa Veil

l T>

<aces

Nets

Mali:

ynamo manne

\v e want to Serve You

CANADA VEILING CO.,LIMITED

84-86 Wellington Street West - - Toronto

DRY GOODS REVIEW

gg2fo»

Made

Four

Sizes

000

COXONIAIX MAUD

_ v - ■ - •■ -

It's all in
the Spring

"0 >^^<><$-!>

,0 d

B WILL |

I NOT f

: | RUST $

;♦ ♦

DRESS VT FASTENER

MADE IN CANADA

Zi£ Hi*...,-. _-i ■ - ■ *

Strong —
Durable
Made of
Brass

It's a Snap to Snap This Snapper

Colonial Maid

Wire Spring Dress Fasteners

Made in
Canada

CH I S IS NOT A
FRICTION FASTENER.
D j. ■ • MADE
DUt IS WITH
HIGHLY TEMPERED

WIRE SPRING

KNOWS WHEN TO HOLD
AND WHEN TO LET GO

BRASS

will not
rust

ALSO PUT UP IN ONE GREAT GROSS
CABINETS ASSORTED 24 CARDS EACH
WHITE AND BLACK .-. ,\ SIZES: 00-0-1

To he had of all leading wholesalers.

Manufactured by

Colonial Fastener Co., Limited

Montreal, Que.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

IIIIIIIIIMIIMIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIMIIIIIIII IIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIimil IIIMIIIMIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMinilMIIIIIIIIIIMII 1

STOFFEL & CO., ST. GALL

The Largest Manufacturers of Cotton Fabrics in

SWITZERLAND

Fine Muslins
Jaconas

Voiles
Crepes

Nainsooks
Batistes

Calicots

Fancies

TRANSPARENT ORGANDIES IN 100 SHADES

DOTTED SWISSES IN 50 SHADES

"IT IS STOFFEL'S"

The finest praise that can be bestowed upon an Organdie or Dotted Swiss

STOCK CARRIED IN TORONTO IMMEDIATE DELIVERY

To the Wholesale and Manufacturing Trade only

HERON & TAYLOR

Sole Agents for Canada

77 York Street, 235 Coristine Bldg.,

20 St. Nicholas Street,
Montreal, Que.

Tel. Adel. 2253 Tel. Main 6248

Toronto

U71

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DRY GOODS REVIEW

LACE GOODS CO., LIMITED

*Tne Handkerchief House of Canada

Y ^

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The Above Represents No. 50 Assortment 15 Patterns 1.67 1/2 per doz.

The many compliments we receive from our customers and the trade generally all
over Canada spur us on to make more strenuous efforts than ever before, because
we intend to maintain our position in this department of our business. Therefore our
assortments in open stock, and our variety of styles of boxes for next Xmas selling-
will be found most attractive, and our showing- of these lines should not be missed
by any live store in the country.

Don't fail to see our range when our representative calls.

LACE GOODS CO., l

united

Fifth Floor, 79 Wellington St. West

TORONTO

DRY GOODS REVIEW

LACE GOODS CO., LIMITED

"The Hanaker chief House of Canada

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The Above Represents No. 30 Assortment 15 Patterns 1.85 per doz.

Fancy boxed goods with one, two and three handkerchiefs in a box — for popular

selling prices in your vicinity.

Fancy open stock — a tremendous assortment.

Note the two specials illustrated. Values unsurpassed. Great leaders for 25c sellers.

Plain Lawns for Ladies and Men.

Plain Linen for Ladies and Men.

Ladies' and Gents' — Initials.

Men's — Colored Borders.

In short — everything in handkerchiefs.

LACE GOODS CO., i

ited

Firth Floor, 79 Wellington St. West

TORONTO

DRY GOODS REVIEW

OTTAWA
111 Sparks St.

HAILEYBURY,

ONT.

Matabanick

The High Cost of Labor & Thinner Purses

Has Made for the Consumer Economy in Buying a Virtue.

and this Economy expresses itself insistently in
buying goods by the yard

Every woman is SEWING now and will do so for some time to eome.
Styles are simpler and patterns easy to follow.

DO YOU OFFER YOUR CUSTOMERS THE AMPLE RANGE AND
STYLES THEY LOOK FOR?

THE HOUSE OF RACINE HAS 14 DEPTS.

And the FIRST 6 are PIECE GOODS DEPTS.

TORONTO, Ont.
72 Bay Street

HAMILTON

ONT.

Lister Chmbrs.

DRY GOODS REVIEW

s ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^B^^^^^ g^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^SZZZZZ^^ ^^g ;

How Many Homes

Are there in Your Town?

Figure it out and order accordingly of

"SEWSURE"

Porch Dresses and Aprons

"Every Woman Wants One"

REASONS WHY

Public opinion is for economy
Materials, styles and prices are right
Women of today want be as neat in their

homes as they are on the street
Plain enough for housework — Smart

enough for the porch
SEWSURE garments are not skimped
SEWSURE garments are modelled correctly
They are in demand every day
Do not have to be put on the bargain

counter

Practical slip-on styles — easy to launder

Youthful — Bright — Stylish — Attractive

Ginghams and Chintz in great demand.

SEWSURE House Frocks Sell Themselves

See our Range while in the city or write and we will
have a representative there quickly

No. 212

The Sewsure Mfg. Co., Limited

Manufacturers

Darling Building, 96 Spadina Ave., Toronto

Let your assistants read this page for good selling points.

^////^Z^Z /////////////^^^^

DRY GOODS REVIEW

Merri-Maid Dresses

In Your Window

Mean More Business in Your Store

rear

This popular dress, "THE MERRI-MAID", which hundreds of
Merchants throughout Canada bought and sold last year, i« meeting
with great success again. The style, workmanship and materials of
this line have proven their worth.

Voile Dresses for Summer — last year for kiddies only — this
for the young miss up to twelve years of age.

Fine Val Laces — Filet Effects — Embroidered
Novelties — The Finest of Ribbons.

Washing Improves Their Appearance

H. P. RITCHIE & COMPANY

38-42 CLIFFORD STREET

TORONTO

Manufacturers Metallic Laces, Silk Lingerie, Embroideries,

Handkerchiefs

DRY GOODS REVIEW

'Hold Your Home
Trade'

The endeavor of every Retail Merchant is to
hold his home trade.

Our Dresses Are

All that you expect in Value, and all that your
customers expect in Satisfaction.

This is more than an assurance —
it is a guarantee.

MATERIALS

Homespuns, Taffetas,, Silks, Crepes

Newton & Carpenter

62 Richmond St., E., Toronto

Tel. Main 1042

"■^■■■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■ ■■■■^■■■■■■■■■-■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■^

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our
liicomeTax

We have just issued a booklet —
"Dominion Income Tax — Questions
and Answers"

which explains in a simple, concise way all
Canadian Government Tax requirements.
The booklet is the work of a tax specialist. It
simplifies— for any individual, incorporated
company or estate— the preparation of the
necessary income tax return.

We will be pleased to forward a copy on request.

Ask for Booklet 35 A

Canadian Debentures

Corporation Limited

Established IQIO
36 KING ST EAST TORONTO

lIllllllllllllllllllllllllllll llllllllllllllllllll llllllllllllllllMIHIIIIIIIlHIHIIIIIIIIIIIIllllllllllllllll
■■■■"■"

The Choker's

The Thing

For Spring

j Everything in Fur Neckwear i
§ from the aristocratic Sable
§ down through the Marten, §
| Fox and Squirrel to the more 1

humble members of the fur
1 family.

Order Now for Immediate Delivery

The W.N. Ward Fur Co.

70 Bay Street - Toronto
Tel. Adelaide 3184

The Swiss Sample Fair

HMHUfcllllll M.M M M JO

From April 22nd to May 2nd, 1922

affords for Canadian buyers the best

opportunity to get in touch with Swiss

manufacturers

Further Information by

THE SWISS CONSULATE GENERAL,

212 Drummond Street

Montreal

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

Dry Goods Review

Must Have New

Cotton Fields

Noted Authority Says Day Will Come

When America Cannot Longer

Export

Sir Charles Macara, the noted cotton
expert, in an article on the cotton trade
and its future expresses the opinion that
we shall soon have a return to good
conditions all round. One difficulty he
points to is that of getting back to a
profitable basis of prices, but he believes
this will adjust itself in good time. As
an evidence of returning prosperity in
the cotton industry, he cites the fact
that there is an unusual demand for ma-
chinery from China, India and Japan
as well as from the home industries.

New Cotton Field

Referring to the necessity of having
new cotton fields, Sir Charles says:

"While England is the great export-
ing country for goods, America, no
doubt, will have as much as she can do
in the future to supply her own rapidly
increasing population; while so far as
the raw material is concerned it is
imperative that new sources of supply
should be found if we are to cope with
the trade of the future. At the moment,
of course, there is enough American
■cotton for us all, but later on, when
trade gets to the normal, we shall be
obliged to look to new fields. The la-
bor difficulties in the Southern States,
and the fact that America is year by
year taking more of the cotton she
grows, obliges us to look well ahead —
these circumstances and the fact that
before the Great War the cotton ma-
chinery of the world was developing at
the rate of four million spindles per
annum.

"In the years preceding 1914 there
was a growing anxiety in all cotton
manufacturing countries as to where we
were to obtain a sufficiency of raw cot-
ton if the trade expanded much more,
and practically most of the time of the
World Cotton Conference held at Atlan-
ta, Georgia, in 1907 was taken up with
the consideration of how to develop the
cotton crops of the future. I had the
privilege of leading the European dele-
gation which attended the conference.
The British Cotton Growing Association
was launched in 1894, in no unfriendly
spirit, but was intended simply as an
auxiliary source of supply, and one
which might be expected to grow as the
trade grew, and make good such de-
ficiency as seemed probable when the
cotton growing limit, or, at all events,
the cotton picking limit, of the Southern
States had been reached."

Fabric Prices

Show Advance

Follows Up-grade of Raw Wool — Finer
Qualities Are Becoming Scarcer

The gradual rise in the price of raw
wool has had the effect in the English
market of increasing the price of fab-
rics. Warehousemen who deferred their
winter buying have been iatr.er discon-
certed because the fabric prices have so
quickly followed the rise in raw wool
prices. The result of this flurry in the
market has been twofold. Buyersi have
been made a little more cautious in their
buying because they feel that this
change is another indication of insta-
bility. On the other hand, it has given
an additional value to the shocks of
warehousemen and their losses will not
be so heavy as seemed likely a few
months ago. The backs of the manu-
facturers and merchants alike have been
somewhat stiffened in the matter of
stacks, and goods cannot be bought as
cheaply now as a month ago.

Botanies Advancing

Manufacturers affirm that the prices
of fine wools are likely to go much high-
er and that by the end of the year all
botany qualities will be exceedingly
hard to get. It is their belief that there
will not be enough fine wool to supply
the demand and thait many people will
be obliged to go back to the crossbreds
and fabrics made from the coarser qual-
ities of wool. Such fabrics have, for
some time, been on the market and if
the demand should be created for their
greater use, there is a plentiful re-
serve of wool and cloth to fill require-
ments.

Wage Reductions

The agreement of the National Wool
and Allied Textile Council, providing
for wage reductions when the cost of
living index figures reaches 95, 85, 75
and so on downwards, the wages of wool
textile operatives were affected as from
the first day of February. From the
time the agreement became operative,
cost of living wages have been based on
an index figure of 105. This meant for
adult male time workers, a maximum
cost of living wage of 34s>. 8d. This is
n w reduced to 31s. 4d.- The cost of
living percentage for the time workers
is reduced from 105 to 95; for male
piece workers from 85.90 to 77.72; for
female piece workers from 90.681 to
82.045 and for pressers and blanket
raisers from 66.81 to 60.45.

The cost of living index figure now
being 92 there is a carry over of 3
points toward a further reduction.

Makers operating fur plants in New
York state that, so far as open plants
are concerned only 25 per cent, of the op-
erators worked in 1921, being employed
on a four-day-a-week schedule. The
rest weire employed by producers when-
ever the latter received enough work
tto operate their plants for one or two
weeks.

Upon severing their connection with
Debcnhams, Ltd., of Toronto, Misses
Haviland and MicEwan were the recipi-
ents of handsome presents. The form-
er was given a handsome sterling mesh
bag and purse, and the latter an all-
leather purse with fittings. They have
been associated with the firm for some
years.

Big Empire Fair

Is Under Way

Over Nine Hundred Thousand Pounds
For Construction of Many Build-
ings Subscribed

Construction of the buildings for the
British Empire Exhibition will be un-
der way in the near future. Prior to the
departure of the Prince of Wales for
India he issued an appeal on behalf of
the unemployed in England, asking for
a fund of one million pounds' with which
to start construction of the buildings
for the Exhibition which is to be held
at Wembly Park next year. That ap-
peal has been responded to in a very lib-
eral way; over 900,000 pounds have al-
ready been received and there is little
difficulty anticipated in getting the re-
maining 100.000 pounds. Among the
contributors is the British government
which gave 100,000 pounds with the un-
derstanding that 500,000 would come
from other sources.

Resources of Empire

The empire, its resources in minerals
and agricultural products, its develop-
ment, the linking together of its people
and the scientific research upon which
future prosperity depends, these are
the objects of the exhibition. Its first
aim is to take complete stock of the re-
sources of the empire and to show how
those which are, as yet, undeveloped or
only partially utilized can be converted
into wealth; to bring to light the pos-
sibilities of growing more grain and
wool, more sugar and more cotton, more
timber and more fruit; of mining a
larger quantity of metals; of adding in
every way imaginable to the production
of commodities which meet the world's
needs.

The second object of the exhibition is
to make the peoples of the empire bet-
ter known to each other; to show how
they work and how they play; what are
their principal sources of wealth; what
are the natural features of the land
they inhabit; how they have built and
adorned their cities; the nature of their
schools and of their factories; the
houses they live in.

Industrial Aim

A still further object of the exhibition
is to established industries to show what
they have to offer, and new industries to
attract attention by proving what they
can do. To the great staple trades,
exhibitions do not appeal with the same
force as they do to the industries pro-
ducing articles which need to be seen
by the actual customer in order to be
appreciated. But experience shows that
exhibitions are of undouibted value as a
means of direct advertisement to a
great many trades and to new countries
which are desirous of pushing their pro-
ducts.

William Cobden, an employee in the
linen department of the J. M. Young
store in London, Ontario, died while at
work on March 4th.

Dry Goods Review

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

Many Canadian Present Conditions

Buyers Present in Germany

Canadian buyers are fairly well re-
presented alt the British Industries Fair
that opened in London and Birmingham
this month. Canadian manufacturers,
on the other hand, are conspicuous by
their absence. This failure to partici-
pate in the exhibition of British pro-
duets may be due to a number of reas-
ons. Buyers from all corners of the
world are in attendance. Most of the
Ontario buyers are interested in Lon-
don exhibits, including cutlery, glass-
ware, enamelware, crockery, jewelry,
diamonds, drugs and chemicals, food-
stuffs confectionery, earthenware, china-
ware, ebony, toiletware, clocks, musical
instruments, novelties, perfumery, etc.

Among the representatives of On-
tario firms were the following: A. J.
Cherl'.on, Stanley Mills, Co., Ltd., Ham-
ilton; W. L. Doran, Dominion Suspender
Co., Ltd., Niagara Falls; F. Procitor,
Proctor Diamond Co., Toronto; C. R. F.
Wickenden, Ottawa, manufacturers'
agent; A. F. White, Marsh Engineering
Works, Belleville; C. E. Linstrum, Rob-
ert Simpson Co., Ltd., Toronto; G. E.
Evans, Robert Simpson Co., Ltdi, Tor-
onto; J. L. Bradshaw, Stratford; A. E.
Cuff, Ryrie Bros., Ltd., Toronto; M. R.
Friend, Ryrie Bros., Toronto; A. V.
Elmes, Ryrie Bros. Toronto; J. J. Dobbs,
Ryrie Bros., Ltd., Toronto; R. G. Gal-
braith, Ryrie Bros., Ltd., Toronto; Wm.
B. Brown, Gordon, Mack'ay & Co., Tor-
onto; A. P. Allan, Robert Simpson Co.,
Toront:; J. R. Hollinger and C. E. Stew-
ard and P. Guard, Wm. Croft & Sons,
Ltd., Toronto; W. G. Patrick, W. G.
Patrick & Co., Toronto; E. A. Steiner,
G. Borgfeldt & Co., Ltd., Toronto; -R.
G. Bruce, Canadian Hansen & Yan
Winkle Co., Ltd., Toronto; I. Levi,
Saunders, Lorie & Co., Ltd., Toronto;
Emerso,n Nichol, Ontario Crockery Co.,
London, Ont.; T. E. Menzies, Menzies &
Co., Toronto; H. T. Houston, Robert
Simpson Co., Ltd., Toronto; J. A. Jack-
son, Robert Simpson Co., Ltd., Toronto;
A. F. Brown, Robert Simpson Co., Ltd.,
Toronto; Harry Fullwood, the Cooks-
ville Model Baker, Cooksville, Ont.; E.
Shipp and F. R. Follett, Ells Bros., Ltd.,
Toronto; Bernard Cairns of Bernard
Cairns Ltd., Toronto; N. B. Strong,
manufacturers' agent Toronto.

It pays the retail salesman to sell
higher grade goods because it increases
his sales and teaches him better sales-
manship and with these two qualities
the retail salesman is prepared for bet-
ter sales work and the greater earning
power that follows increased sales
efficiency.

Customers will forget the price of an
article but will not forget if the article
has not given a certain amount of wear-
ing and comfort satisfaction; he will not
remember the price he paid for a poor
article, but he will remember the store
where he purchased it.

EUROPEAN merchandising methods
p are curiously interesting and in
many cases instructive, according
to Mr. S. Z. Fels of Fels Limited of
Montreal, who has just returned from
an extended trip through England,
France, Germany, Holland and Belgium
for the purp se of studying conditions
as they concern the men's wear trade.
To Drys Goods Review Mr. Fels ex-
pressed himself as greatly impressed by
the courtesy shown to Canadians or any
British subject over on the other siide.
"If one has a British passport there is
nothing that they cannot do fc r you in
Europe, and in Germany particularly,
it is extraordinary how much attention
one gets.

Business Methods In Berlin

"The way they receive visitors dn
Berlin, for example, is rather unusual,"
continued Mr. Fels. "When one arrives
at a hotel it is not customary to register
but you are shown to your room immedi-
ately where a form is brought for you
to fill out, giving details about your
nationality, business, reason for visit,
and so on. This form is apparently
given to some one who proceeds to
verify all the particulars at some of-
ficial headquarters, and the next day
the visitor is approached bv reporters
from the leading papers who interview
him on conditions in his own country,
question him about the feeling regard-
ing Germany, enquire about business
and import trade, etc. Then later,
various manufacturers in the line of
business of the visitor call on him and
appear very keen to do business wiith
him. In fact, the whole routine is de-
vised for the purpose of securing op-
portunities for export trade, and one
has to be very alert to withstand all
the blandishments offered. The strin-
gent regulation exacted by the govern-
ment regarding the quotation of Ger-
man merchandise in dollars instead of
in marks is a source of indignation to
these manufacturers who find it prohib-
itive in most cases. However, notwith-
standing all the difficulties they have
to undergo, they certainly are work-
ers and / I was much impressed by the
activity in an industrial way that I
noticed everywhere. Apparently, they
cannot begin to fill the home demand for
most goods, and long hours and low pay
have no terrors for them.

"Life in Berlin is an interesting study
for a foreigner. At night one sees
everyone well dressed and evening
clothes are 'd • 'gueur/ especially for
men, at most affairs. At the most
palatial hotels it is possible to obtain a
full meal including the best liqueurs for
less than $1.50."

How Commodities

Have Fallen

Instructive Table Prepared by R. M. A.
Ottawa Showing Decline in One Year

From time to time news items have
appeared in the press dealing with the
prices charged for necessities in retail
stores, and, many of these news items
have not been fair in the statements
made.

The head office of the Retail Mer-
chants' Association of Canada, Inc., at
Ottawa, which is fully representative of
all classes of retail trade throughout
Canada, undertook a thorough investi-
gation of the prices charged in retail
stores in 1920 as compared with prices
charged during 1921. Notwithstanding
an increased burden of municipal taxa-
tion and increased rents paid in 1921
by the retail merchants throughout Can-
ada, a very decided drop in prices is
shown by their report, averaging ap-
proximately thirty per cent. The most
remarkable decline is in groceries, which
dropped 44.49 per cent., and other lines
show declines as follows:

Furs 37.3%

Dry Goods 31.6%

Hats, Men's 31 . 25%

Ladies' Wear 30.9%

Clothiers 29.16%

Men's Wear and Furnishings. . 28.8%

Boots and Shoes 26.3%

Merchant Tailors 20.8%

Confectioners 17.8%

Butchers 15.0%

The foregoing statement clearly shows
that retail prices have been keeping pace
with the declines taking place in the
market, and that the public has been
treated fairly by the retail merchants,
who, after all, are but the servants of
the public in providing the necessities of
life.

This is the best answer that can be
made to those who are endeavoring to
place any blame on the retail trade.

DOUBLE SEASON POSSIBLE

The lateness of Easter offers the pos-
sibility, according to garment manufac-
turers, of a double season's business.
The spring purchases of the retailers
will probably be shown very soon and
should attract an active business. In
the opinion of manufacturers, favorable
weather should lead to a sales spurt
early next month. The goods so
bought will receive some wear before
Easter and necessitate other purchases
for that dress holiday. Millinery is ex-
pected to benefit principally from this
double demand, but suits and dresses
may also derive some advantage.

The Thorold Tailors have commenced
business in Thorold, Ont.

The salesman cannot make money for
the house — in the long run, at least — un-
less he can statisfy the customer; and
he cannot satisfy the customer unless he
knows how to choose merchandise suit-
able to his personality.

BRITISH TRADfc. SECTION

Dry Goods R&view

KING'S CELEBRATED
SCOTCH WINDOW HOLLANDS

SOLD BY ALL LEADING WINDOW SHADE JOBBERS

Made by

JOHN KING & SON

GLASGOW, SCOTLAND

Established 1775
Canadian Representatives : CAMPBELL, SMIBERT & CO., MONTREAL and TORONTO

SUPER

SHRUNK

INDIA

TAPE

THE STAG.

Manufactured by

George H. Wheatcroft & Co.

WIRKSWORTH, Eng.

"Speedwell Tapes give Satisfaction"
Does Not Stretch

.A.N

>v^\*

[SPEEDWELL]

VI
Will Not Shrink

Do you realize the im-
portance of using only
the BEST tapes — tapes
that will give you the
largest amount of ser-
vice and satisfaction?

Speedwell Tapes come in
all widths and prices.
Send for samples.

Walter Williams & Co. Ltd.

MONTREAL TORONTO QUEBEC

508 Read Building 20 Wellington St. W. 553 St. Valier St.
VANCOUVER, 217 Crown Building

TELEGRAMS:
WAKEFUL
GLASGOW

CODE:
A.B.C.
5TH EDITION

WILSON & CO.

48 ALBION STREET

GLASGOW

Manufacturers

Ecru and Colored Madras Muslins,
Coin Spots and Figured Harness
Book Muslins Robe Muslins

Voiles

Anglo-Swiss and Broche Muslins,

"Wilsco" Lawns, "Zelette"

LACE CURTAINS

LACE NETS

Dry Goods Review

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

WUi

COTTON GOODS

Are Guaranteed FAST Colors

"Solprufe" cottons are absolutely guaranteed to
be fadeless and sunproof.

Whether you are ordering goods for curtains and
Couch Covers, or replenishing your stock of
new materials for Ladies' and Children's Wear,
be sure to specify cottons bearing the stamps ^^u^fe" J-

This new B. D. A. Process makes Cottons
fast to sunlight and washing. It is one of
the new finishes originated and perfected
by the Bradford Dyers' Association — a
recommendation in itself of novelty and
proven excellence.

on the selvedge and
this trademark

on the end of the
piece

THE

Bradford Dyers' AssociATiONflP'

MANCHESTER ^SI?™ LONDON

6 OXfORD S T
ST PETERS 5Q

126 O 129
Cf1[APSIDE.,E:C2

(COPYRIGHT)

•>9

BRITISH TRADE SECTION

Dry Goods Revieir

IION CREST FABRICS

CASEMENTS

We keep up our large variety in 27in., 30in., and 50in.
Casements. Best value on the market.

CRETONNES

Extensive range in 30in. Domestic and Sateens.

Specially in 50in. Reversible and 50in. Taffeta Duplex.
High class and latest styles.

Through Wholesale and Shipping Only.

JAjUFFRED & GARIEL

Manchester, England.

CANADIAN REPRESENTATIVES
George H. Napier, 417, Coristine Building, MONTREAL
Andrew Wilson - - - 91, Albert Street, WINNIPEG

Since 1791

the time of the handloom, Horrockses'
mills have produced cottons which
have carried the makers' name to the
markets of the world and there demon-
strated through honest quality and
sound value, the enduring and de-
pendable worth of cotton fabrics from
Lanc